Great honest review, Devin! It's nice to see that increased build volume and touch screen upgrades aren't always the specs to a better printer from the same manufacturer
I bought the CR10S Pro 2 weeks ago as my first printer, I would have loved to see this video first! I can definitely confirm that the bed leveling is a royal pain, enough so that I'm already planning to replace the sensor.
Hey, I've never commented on a video before but I can't tell you how much I appreciate what you do! I started watching your videos a couple years ago and got a CR10 a year and a half ago by your recommendation and I've absolutely loved it. I just finished my freshman year of college doing engineering and I really enjoy how 3D printing enables me to be creative in a way I haven't been able to do with other kinds of art. It's cool to see how your videos have changed over time and I'm always excited to see new videos you make. I wish you the best and thank you for how you've affected my life for the better!
Regarding anyone having difficulty removing prints from the bed of the CR-10S Pro! When using PLA, just preheat the bed to 40C after the print and they pretty much come right off, no need for the scraper. No damaging your plate. It's pretty fantastic.
I have a cr10 and I can personally say that they are fantastic printers. I was on a budget when I bought my 3d printer so I got a cr10 and after using it for 2 years it is still in tip top shape after spending about $100 in upgrades (new z-axis couplers, new nozzles, new control box fans, etc.) it still runs great and has a huge build volume. I definitely can recommend cr10 printers and I'm sure you will not regret it
Devin, I totally agree with every point you made. I run an Anycubic Linear Delta as well as an Ender 3. Glass surfaces are the way to go in fact I attribute the fact that I rarely have to adjust my printer levels to the glass surfaces because I I don't yank on the beds themselves. Also here's an enhancement . I have two glass surfaces for each printer. When a print is finished I unclip the surface and replace it with the alternate (Obviously both glass surfaces for each printer were cut from the same sheet ). but doing this allows the new print and surface to rapidly cool and release and the printer is immediately back in action if needed as well as no disturbance to the setup. I use 2mm picture glass instead of 4mm thick mirrors. Yes, the glass is fragile and delicate but it is also really light so on the E3 it doesn't suffer from Y axis artifacts caused by reciprocating a heavy piece of glass at speed. Also the glass is dirt cheap (I buy frames from thrift stores) and heats and cools quickly. Here's a little project for you; how to automatically switch from one spool to another while printing. Instead of a filament run out sensor, some mechanism to switch to the next roll when the current roll comes to an end. I like everybody else have loads of reels with small amounts of filament on them. I'd love to find a way for the printer to switch filaments automatically. And no, the solution can't cost more than the entire printer.
I have the cr-10s pro since a week and yes you definitly HAVE to replace the sensor. Theres no way around that. But that fixes almost all the problems the printer got. With the tinymachines custom firmware, and some optional upgrades like new fans and a different heatbed, this printer is pretty awesome. And it looks way better than the older versions :D
Just got the cr-10 for my nephews xmas gift from ebay used (like new in box) for $244. Purchased before I watched this video, and this verified my choice was correct. Also, I'm so glad the glass is ok with hairspray, I was almost sold on the $55 buildtak, and $130 buildtak flex plate and I really couldn't afford that too. I just wanted him to be able to get good prints right away and have the space to go big if he wants without too much complication on the setup. Cr-10 ssems to be perfect. However, I also bought him flexible filament without knowing the cr-10 needs a modded piece for it to work. But it shouldn't be too difficult for him to figure out with youtube tutorials and he's 16 years old. Thanks for the video, it was well done.
Had same problems with the bed. Since i changed to glass i have no problem. You can chip the print off the bed, the bed doesn't even have to cool off the most time.
I love your honest opinion. I like the fact that you tell it true, and not just try to promote the more expensive printer. I have the CR10S Pro, and I love it, I don't regret buying it one bit. I did do some upgrades to address the issues that you pointed out, like the bed leveling problem, and I understand you are comparing the stock models (mostly). I think the one thing that made me decide to go with the Pro, and not the CR10 was because of looks. I never liked the stand-alone box. Sure there are mods that can be done to fix that issue, and mods to add auto bed leveling, and quieter steppers, etc, etc. I just felt that the Pro version was more of a jump start on those mods. And I agree, the buildtack SUCKS! Got rid of that as soon as I could, and I went with the Wham Bam flexible build plate. I also agree glass is a great print surface, but having the Prusa MK3, it's hard to go back to a nonflexible build plate. Now if someone were to ask me which one I would suggest they get, I would have a hard time saying "You should get this one", it would all depend on the person really, and what their skill level is. I have a friend that doesn't have much in the way of mechanical skills, and he loves the CR10S Pro. But for someone who loves to tinker, and modify things, I would recommend the less expensive CR10, and let them modify it at their leisure and budget. Love what you do my friend, keep up the great work. =)
I am looking for my first 3-D printer with large format and the CR-10 is where I'm focusing. Interesting that you recommend the CR-10 over the CR-10S Pro.
Great video and I completely agree with you. My CR-10 and CR-10S have been tanks. The only upgrades I made was replacing the hot end (Titan Aero/Aero Evolve fan duct setup), using the TH3d Unified Firmware and the Tiny Machine polypropelene bed. I added the EZABL sensor for better accuracy and it's gone well. These newer printers from Creality/Tevo/etc are just re-do's of the same previous models, over and over. New paint. New electronics...but the same core i3 printer design. I have seen too many videos on LCD touch screen freeze ups and many false readings on filament sensors, so I just old school it and make sure I have enough filament on the spool
@@make.anything I'm sure there are some better mechanical limit switch setups that probably work more reliably. I'm surprised your extruder has held up. Mine started slipping a few months in and all I use is Hatchbox or ColorFabb PLA. I'd worn a groove into the brass pinion gear. Direct drive has been so good!
4:01 I actually notice the difference here, tbh the layers of CR10S and the Pro looks better than the original CR10 layers. However this review is on another level, you're doing a really good job and I need such information, so thanks a lot dude!
I just plug my 3d printer into my old computer UPS Battery backup and it's kept printing through power outages that lasted 45 minutes with no hiccups... I wasn't sure how well it would work, but have been surprised.
I LOVE the way you've made the CR-10 more compact! I really need to do that. Great review timing as I was considering purchasing the Pro, but will consider sticking with the CR-10S Touchscreen version. Also agree 100% on a glass bed, I have 10 CR-10S's and I turned over the Borosilicate bed to get the smooth side up, and then just used Magigoo as I would on my CR-10's. Other than that, I am using the CR-10S's with a touchscreen, works great and lets me set some custom gcode commands I can run at the touch of a button. Great for moving up the gantry in 1 click and for preheating the bed and nozzle all in one press!
6:22 The nozzle runs into the bed before the IN-ductive sensor triggers. I would bet that's the reason the Z leveling is inconsistent. A fix could be lowering the sensor by turning the threads which secure it. The Z adjustment (on screen) looks to be an offset, so tuning that after the adjustment might work. I don't have my hands on a CR10, so maybe something you could test. :) Interesting points though!
Had same problem with auto bed levelling on my Anet, the thing was I should heat it up before bed levelling and then it worked every time. It's not a big deal performing auto bed levelling every time you print, just add it to your start gcode. Also, Buildtak, I find it one of the best options, don't use spatula, it's thick, I had best result using utility knife where you slide it fully out and then wedge on side of print and slide it under print. This way you should avoid cutting Buildtak cos the knife is parallel to it.
Your first review on the CR-10 is what convinced me to bite the bullet and buy a 3D printer! It's been a lot of fun. I struggled with bed adhesion and leveling starting out, so I got a second Z-axis stepper, but it's most likely unnecessary. I found what works best for adhesion is actually lime juice! Plus, I think it smells much better than hairspray. As for bed leveling, I found the best way was to print a file that prints a square in each corner and the center, adjusting the bed as it prints, and re-printing the file as needed until each square has a proper thickness. The factory glass build plate on my printer seemed to sag slightly in the center, so I switched it for a 12"x12" mirror that you can get at most hardware stores. This has the added benefit of looking cool (IMO) and also gives you an easy view of the nozzle. I removed the factory feet, and installed printed ones that hold yellow foam golf balls to dampen vibrations. I also have printed a LED strip holder that fits right on the top bar and wired it directly into the power supply. (I know this could be a bad idea, but I don't think they draw much current and have not had any issues) The last upgrade I've added is a Raspberry Pi with Octoprint and it is great. Not only does it allow remote viewing of prints, but makes controlling and printing a breeze. No longer do I have to navigate through menus on the printer screen with the scroll button, I can easily change the temperature, move, and extrude with the keyboard. No longer do I have to remove the SD, I can immediately upload g-code from within Cura. Totally worth it.
As a owner to a CR-10S and 2 CR-10S Pro's and a ender 3, Prusa MK2S I did not like the default build plate on the Pro as well i moved to wham bam build plate. I am seeing the same issues with leveling with mine I even had to stop print a few times on account that it would move my nozzle to low and would not allow filament to come out. I got to say your review is spot on from what i see and i am thinking of putting BL touch on my Pro's
@@136videos Unfortunately No nothing official as of yet anyway. I just got bit by the 3d printer bug. and I dont like to wait 3 weeks for a project to get finished :) dealing with the slowness of FDM printing the more printers you add the less wait time you have when doing projects. Now i can get nice/complex projects done with in 24 hours. I am currently looking at adding 2 more printers to my arsenal. I want a delta printer just cuz i dont have one yet. and i want a duel extruder or a pallet 2 if they can ever get off of the cloud for software. and maybe now that SLA printers are coming down in price maybe...... its getting close
can you play ur intro with 3d printer( using midi file ) using the motor to genrate noise.( you can place 3d printer on wood or metal table to amplify the sound)
Picked up a CR10S pro to accompany my first printer an ender 3 Pro V2. Loved the Ender 3 so much I thought I'd love this "Upgraded" CR10 even more. Well over all I am not really a fan either. It's not bad in any particular way just not really worth the hype. If all you want to print with is PLA than I actually think it's a solid option although a bit pricey for that purpose. However if you ever plan to regularly print higher end materials like ASA or CFNylon that require an enclosure than a CR10S is the better option IMO for one important reason. There are very limited enclosure options for the CR10S Pro and the ones that are available all include the electrical base within the enclosure which is not advised for printer longevity. I ended up having to custom make a raised enclosure which took a good bit of personal time to design and "fabricate". The CR10S with it's separated electronics and power supply is much more suitable to enclosure use.
I have the Anet A8 and was considering changing the direct drive to a Bowden tube to do multicolored prints. Would it be possible for you to do a video on this? I have been watching your videos for a while now and can never get enough.... even if I do watch them a few times. This week I tried to make a PLA sheet using waste parts and it came out really well, all due to your videos.
Very nice and honest review. Some people think that by purchasing more expensive or "Latest and Greatest" that they are better. I haven't been 3D printing that much and I'm still fairly new to it but my Ender 3 is an awesome printer. I have a Printrbot Simple Metal that needs a new board, I think, an Anet A8 that I need to get using again a CR-10 that is still in its box and needs to be built along with my just arrived CR-10 V2. I love designing and printing parts and sometimes forget I even have them to much going on I guess.
On the subject of glass build surface v/s Buildtak: The build surface used should match the material being printed and the piece being printed. Buildtak stick so much better than glass. I have never had a bed adhesion problem unless the Buildtak was in need of replacement because it has ran its lifespan. In my experience, you can't remove a print from a buildtak surface without flexing the base. Using a spatula on the Buildtak, compromises the material. Glass is fine and better depending in certain situations and material. Likewise, Buildtak is better for the same reason. One of the things that would drive this is large parts printed from materials with a high coefficient of thermal expansion like ABS or Nylon. I have been able to successfully print larger ABS parts on Buildtak with no warping because it sticks so good. However, the small parts are extremely hard to remove from Buildtak because they flex with the plate and will not pop off. For that reason, I use both glass and Buildtak on my CR-10S which has a BLTouch. With the BLTouch, I swap the build surface and run the print. No setup is required to deal with difference in thickness because the BLTouch checks this distance and adjusts for it on every print. I have several printers but, my main two printers are my heavily modded CR-10S and a Raise3D E2. The E2 has a Buildtak surface and that is what turned me on to Buildtak. I also have a 1st generation dual extruder Makerbot Replicator that I have modified to have a glass build surface among other things. It's basically modified to the max.
some of the cons you mentioned with the cr10s pro v2, are very opinion based, and they have easier remedies, then you might think, i owned a monoprice printer with the same buildtak/aluminum combo, and i did run into the same problem with the buildtak ripping upon removal of prints. i found it extremely easier to simply replace the buildtak on the bare aluminum with blue painters, tape, it makes removal of the print, far easier to remove aswell and not only that, it makes the surface cleaner, on the bottom of the print, as you can replace it after each print. as for the autoleveling, i believe you can set the printer to auto level before each print, via gcode. so you would simply just start your print, let it level the bed, then run youre good to let it continue printing. no intervention required. atleast thats how i did it with my monoprice mini delta. i realise no 2 printers are the same, but generally, alot of printers, have features similar to other printers.
Had buildtak on my Monoprice Mini, gouged it getting the 2nd print off. By the 5th print I had ordered a borosilicate glass replacement. Bought a CR-10s, replaced the stock glass with an IKEA mirror. Both glass surfaces worked great with purple glue stick, don't like hair spray. Currently have a PEI sheet on one of my IKEA mirrors. It's only issue is every scratch and nick shows up in the bottom of my prints. But there's no clean up and prep is a quick wipe with 97% isopropyl alcohol.
Hi, I am about to purchase my first printer. Been watching you videos. Thanks for all the work you put into them. If I am not looking to spend extra time on upgrading a printer, and I’m willing to spend around $700, what do you recommend? Mostly to be used for prototype prints and injection mold inserts. Ease of use for a newbie and quality prints are important
Great video as always! I have taken your advice to upgrade the CR-10s with the features that are most appealing from the pro model. Just added the dual drive gear! Only reason I would actually opt for the pro version would be the 24V, what temp can the bed reach?
I like having a printer I can hack around on and the CR-10S fits the bill. With the Pro I know I would want to change things about the interface and add new options in the firmware, and it just doesn’t seem nearly as accessible for that.
I don't really see the appeal of touch screens. I mean a print can take hours, why would I care about a few extra seconds when navigating through the menu.
got question i use cr10s more then 1 year now i lose quality i always print at 0.2 LH but now any print i make have bad quality any idea you have guys ?
It's an INDUCTIVE sensor, not conductive. What most likely is causing the inconsistency in your bed leveling is the heated bed and nozzle are causing interference with the sensor since they give off EMFs. EMFs cause interference with the inductive sensors. This is why in the TH3D Unified Firmware, there is an option to turn off the heaters for a split second when the sensor takes it's measurement. Try this and let us know if that helped!!!!
I have an Ender 3 and it came with that BuildTac surface. I had many chips in it because my prints would stick too much. Thankfully I invested in a Glass build plate, which was an amazing idea to get one.
I do get your points, but some of them I don't agree with. The biggest plus I think you missed is the dual geared extruder. I have a palete 2 and trust me that's a huge difference in consistently feeding filament over a normal extruder there. Also something's like you mentioning not being able to do your dual color/layer because of it needing to probe I don't think you really tried hard enough, that's all in your starting script of your slicer. And mine probes about inches in from the corner so worst case if you can't stop it proving you still have a about a 10 x 10 build area. Also some of the parts are legitimate upgrades like the meanwell(not generic like other cr"s) power supply. Auto level sensor while it does have its quirks is more of you need to adjust how far off it's sitting from the bed(2mm) and learn to tune the red light and it's not too bad, it's been months in-between when I need to screw with that. But also because of that tuning and nailing my z home Everytime I quite like the build tack surface. If you are at a good first layer height AND let the bed cool down to ambient it's super easy to get the prints off. If your having problems getting prints off the auto sensor probably isn't tuned right. The trimamic drivers and them being silent is nice. But as far as quality prints go you really need to be doing organic type prints more than the flat surface ones you showed. The y axis is also upgraded. You should be able to push a Pro to faster speeds with less speed related artifacts also. I don't disagree the normal cr10 is probably when people should start looking. But the CR10s pro upgrades are worth the extra money and in alot of ways it is a better printer. It would be rough to do all of the upgrades and not come out close $ wise and don't forget your own time is worth something too. Updrades take time
they have since changed the auto-leveling sensor which has fixed the leveling issue on the pro it has the blue sensor and the pro v2 has a Bltouch both of which have much better accuracy and do very well in abl
Yeah, manual leveling is a breeze if the printer's surface is not warped. I got cr10s. Alluminium bed was warped in the middle just like the glass surface-had to return it as It was impossible to level it. Forums recommended an aluminum foil to compensate for warps-which is ridiculous when you pay nearly £400. It's apparently a very common issue with the cr10. The run out sensor on the CR10s is a joke. Both CR10 and CR10s are for DIY 3d enthusiasts. I think PRO version is more user friendly for people who do not want to spend hours reading forums to install mods.
I have a CR-10s Pro and I love it. Out of the box it was a solid 3D printer and I have not had any of the issues you have had so that’s a good thing. Love the videos and I love my CR-10s pro.
Yaaaaaaaasss!!! I hazz duh CR10 now and I've been considering selling it to afford the CR10S Pro. You just convinced me to keep my original CR10. And now, I'm going to go print the minor upgraded you have in the description, to give my CR10 that brand new feeling again!
I would add to that the CR-10S PRO seems to have slightly sturdier frame, it should be able to get slightly higher speeds without any degradation in print quality.
@@make.anything but are the people that ask for them the user base that got you where you are? or are they the masses that get pandered to by everyone and alienate the original viewer base.. kinda tired of youtube for this reason, didnt meant o poop on your vid but its everywhere now and this was the one that finally made me disable youtube notifications entirely
@@jasonm2477 reviews are a big part of what grew my audience to this point. I'm always trying to balance my content, so sorry if this particular video isn't what you're interested in!
Hey Devin, I was thinking about getting the CR-X, but this gave me second thoughts. Does the dual extruder is worth these ""downgrades""? I would appreciate your opinion. Thanks!
I have the CR-X and it's even more trouble than the pro. I generally discourage getting dual extruders unless you absolutely need it for dissolvable supports or something... It just adds more areas for things to go wrong
Hey Devin I love your videos!!! And I was wondering since I saw other TH-camrs put there own spin on recreating a Bob Ross painting I was wondering if you could maybe try and recreate a Bob Ross painting too but by 3D printing it? That would be sooooo cool if you do! I really hope you can consider!
I've had that trouble with my CR10S Pro with inconsistent bed leveling as well. I tried all these tricks others suggested to fix but none worked for me. I ended up installing a BL Touch. I've also switched to a glass bed. I prefer that smooth look as well. After two months of use though I'm needing to fix touch screen. It thinks I'm pressing somewhere else on my screen than I actually am.I think a stepper motor has gone bad because now when the stepper is disabled the printer will just slide down on the left side. Was not doing this till just a couple of days ago. And lastly, during some prints, the temperature just drops. Instead of being at 60 bed/225 nozzle, they go to 25/25 or so for standby temperatures and printer keeps on trying to print. I'm not as impressed with the touch screen when it was working. I saw a post on Reddit where they replaced the screen with the older style like on the cr10. I might go ahead and retro-grade like that.
Can you make on of those charts that have the model listed on one end, and features on the other, with little X's & O's in the boxes for which feature each has or doesn't? Then maybe add a "?" For features that could be added to a previous model? That would be the most helpful. Thanks.
Awesome review. I recommend looking at the Evnovo Sidewinder X1 as it is $400-430 and has a similar frame to the CR 10S Pro but with a Titan Aero and E3D volcano direct drive extruder plus filament runout. It also has an AC heat bed which is super fast and dead silent steppers.
Change the sensor to a inductive version, capacitive sensors can produce inconsistencies due to temperature variations and I don't believe there's any temperature compensation...
Can the aluminum platen be replaced with the glass platen used on the cheaper one? Or any compatible glass platen? Why do you need to level the build platen at all? I mean how does it shift out of factory specs if it is built properly?
I would love your opinion on the CR-10S Pro Version 2. Has it made enough improvement to warrant the jump from the 10 or 10s? Or you would still go with a modded 10? Thank you
Love this down to earth honest approach you have taken in this video, awesome. I love my Ender 3, wish Creality would release a basic machine that had an easy factory installed upgrade path like auto bed levelling.
The pens are fun, but honestly are more of a novelty than a go-to 3d printer alternative. I've had a blast with the 3doodler, just takes some practice to make that Eiffel Tower stand straight! I think there are plenty of affordable printers out there to make them worth considering over the pens!
Hello, I have a Creality CR-10S Printer that I can't get to print. The z Axis goes up and down when homing but won't When Printing. It just stays on the first layer. Is this a printer problem or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?
Hi a bit of advice please I know nothing about 3D printing but what to try to print some locksport bits I like the look of the cr 10 but which one will work the easiest for a total novice ? Thanks in advance for any help you maybe able to offer
I just finished setting up my CR 10, but I lost the SD card it came with so I had to get a new one. I just tried leveling the bed using the paper method, and I have a bed leveling print to help me dial it in perfectly.
I`ve had my cr10s pro for 7 months and still not got it printing 100% yet, I fitted a mirror which you could say is glass and still thinking of a bltouch. I think if I was going to get a number 3 printer , I would get a cr10s and add a bltouch and a direct extruder.
I don't get why so many youtubers have problems with auto bed level. My cr10s Pro auto level works like a charm, I press print and don't have to monitor the first layer, ever. The time I saves is worth every dollar.
Great Video! Do you know of any videos that give a good tutorial on how to manually level the CR-10 and what I should be looking for when I level it? If not, would you consider making one?
Great honest review, Devin! It's nice to see that increased build volume and touch screen upgrades aren't always the specs to a better printer from the same manufacturer
I totally love that you can tweak and improve a machine by creating simmering with that machine and adding those new bits it made to itself.
I bought the CR10S Pro 2 weeks ago as my first printer, I would have loved to see this video first! I can definitely confirm that the bed leveling is a royal pain, enough so that I'm already planning to replace the sensor.
First thing i got with mine was a inductive sensor, original capacitive sensor sucks
Is it as easy as swapping places with the stock sensor?
BLTouch saved my Pro from flying out the Window...
Hey, I've never commented on a video before but I can't tell you how much I appreciate what you do! I started watching your videos a couple years ago and got a CR10 a year and a half ago by your recommendation and I've absolutely loved it. I just finished my freshman year of college doing engineering and I really enjoy how 3D printing enables me to be creative in a way I haven't been able to do with other kinds of art. It's cool to see how your videos have changed over time and I'm always excited to see new videos you make. I wish you the best and thank you for how you've affected my life for the better!
That's so great! Thanks for sharing Luke :)
Regarding anyone having difficulty removing prints from the bed of the CR-10S Pro! When using PLA, just preheat the bed to 40C after the print and they pretty much come right off, no need for the scraper. No damaging your plate. It's pretty fantastic.
Thanks for this Devin. I'm actually considering the CR10S Pro to replace my old clunky Deltaprintr.
I have a cr10 and I can personally say that they are fantastic printers. I was on a budget when I bought my 3d printer so I got a cr10 and after using it for 2 years it is still in tip top shape after spending about $100 in upgrades (new z-axis couplers, new nozzles, new control box fans, etc.) it still runs great and has a huge build volume. I definitely can recommend cr10 printers and I'm sure you will not regret it
@@mystery6703 I already have a cr7 printer from a few years ago and it runs great, but it has become too small for what I need.
@@AmusementLabs yeah the cr10 printers have great size for the price
As much as I love my cr-10, do yourself a favor and buy a prusa lol.
I just got the CR-10S Pro on a Black Friday special. It is working great! It's my first Creality, and glad I went for a higher end model to start.
Devin, I totally agree with every point you made. I run an Anycubic Linear Delta as well as an Ender 3. Glass surfaces are the way to go in fact I attribute the fact that I rarely have to adjust my printer levels to the glass surfaces because I I don't yank on the beds themselves. Also here's an enhancement . I have two glass surfaces for each printer. When a print is finished I unclip the surface and replace it with the alternate (Obviously both glass surfaces for each printer were cut from the same sheet ). but doing this allows the new print and surface to rapidly cool and release and the printer is immediately back in action if needed as well as no disturbance to the setup.
I use 2mm picture glass instead of 4mm thick mirrors. Yes, the glass is fragile and delicate but it is also really light so on the E3 it doesn't suffer from Y axis artifacts caused by reciprocating a heavy piece of glass at speed. Also the glass is dirt cheap (I buy frames from thrift stores) and heats and cools quickly.
Here's a little project for you; how to automatically switch from one spool to another while printing. Instead of a filament run out sensor, some mechanism to switch to the next roll when the current roll comes to an end. I like everybody else have loads of reels with small amounts of filament on them. I'd love to find a way for the printer to switch filaments automatically. And no, the solution can't cost more than the entire printer.
Oh man oh man, ya did it again! This video was so informative! BTW, I'm still waiting for that fillet song Devin ;)
I have the cr-10s pro since a week and yes you definitly HAVE to replace the sensor. Theres no way around that. But that fixes almost all the problems the printer got. With the tinymachines custom firmware, and some optional upgrades like new fans and a different heatbed, this printer is pretty awesome. And it looks way better than the older versions :D
@Mr. Yuck Straight into the insult. Very mature. You pay for a beautiful printer with some nice features. If its worth the money is up to you.
Just got the cr-10 for my nephews xmas gift from ebay used (like new in box) for $244. Purchased before I watched this video, and this verified my choice was correct. Also, I'm so glad the glass is ok with hairspray, I was almost sold on the $55 buildtak, and $130 buildtak flex plate and I really couldn't afford that too. I just wanted him to be able to get good prints right away and have the space to go big if he wants without too much complication on the setup. Cr-10 ssems to be perfect. However, I also bought him flexible filament without knowing the cr-10 needs a modded piece for it to work. But it shouldn't be too difficult for him to figure out with youtube tutorials and he's 16 years old. Thanks for the video, it was well done.
Had same problems with the bed. Since i changed to glass i have no problem. You can chip the print off the bed, the bed doesn't even have to cool off the most time.
The subtitles: “This is the see our tennis pro” lol
I love your honest opinion. I like the fact that you tell it true, and not just try to promote the more expensive printer. I have the CR10S Pro, and I love it, I don't regret buying it one bit. I did do some upgrades to address the issues that you pointed out, like the bed leveling problem, and I understand you are comparing the stock models (mostly). I think the one thing that made me decide to go with the Pro, and not the CR10 was because of looks. I never liked the stand-alone box. Sure there are mods that can be done to fix that issue, and mods to add auto bed leveling, and quieter steppers, etc, etc. I just felt that the Pro version was more of a jump start on those mods. And I agree, the buildtack SUCKS! Got rid of that as soon as I could, and I went with the Wham Bam flexible build plate. I also agree glass is a great print surface, but having the Prusa MK3, it's hard to go back to a nonflexible build plate. Now if someone were to ask me which one I would suggest they get, I would have a hard time saying "You should get this one", it would all depend on the person really, and what their skill level is. I have a friend that doesn't have much in the way of mechanical skills, and he loves the CR10S Pro. But for someone who loves to tinker, and modify things, I would recommend the less expensive CR10, and let them modify it at their leisure and budget. Love what you do my friend, keep up the great work. =)
I am looking for my first 3-D printer with large format and the CR-10 is where I'm focusing. Interesting that you recommend the CR-10 over the CR-10S Pro.
CR10-S Here I come =) Thanks for the heads up
Thank you! This was an awesome review - just what I needed.
Great video and I completely agree with you. My CR-10 and CR-10S have been tanks. The only upgrades I made was replacing the hot end (Titan Aero/Aero Evolve fan duct setup), using the TH3d Unified Firmware and the Tiny Machine polypropelene bed. I added the EZABL sensor for better accuracy and it's gone well. These newer printers from Creality/Tevo/etc are just re-do's of the same previous models, over and over. New paint. New electronics...but the same core i3 printer design. I have seen too many videos on LCD touch screen freeze ups and many false readings on filament sensors, so I just old school it and make sure I have enough filament on the spool
Exactly.. I've had more false flags with filament runout sensors than actual saves :|
@@make.anything I'm sure there are some better mechanical limit switch setups that probably work more reliably. I'm surprised your extruder has held up. Mine started slipping a few months in and all I use is Hatchbox or ColorFabb PLA. I'd worn a groove into the brass pinion gear. Direct drive has been so good!
4:01 I actually notice the difference here, tbh the layers of CR10S and the Pro looks better than the original CR10 layers. However this review is on another level, you're doing a really good job and I need such information, so thanks a lot dude!
So which one is the best?
I just plug my 3d printer into my old computer UPS Battery backup and it's kept printing through power outages that lasted 45 minutes with no hiccups... I wasn't sure how well it would work, but have been surprised.
I LOVE the way you've made the CR-10 more compact! I really need to do that. Great review timing as I was considering purchasing the Pro, but will consider sticking with the CR-10S Touchscreen version. Also agree 100% on a glass bed, I have 10 CR-10S's and I turned over the Borosilicate bed to get the smooth side up, and then just used Magigoo as I would on my CR-10's. Other than that, I am using the CR-10S's with a touchscreen, works great and lets me set some custom gcode commands I can run at the touch of a button. Great for moving up the gantry in 1 click and for preheating the bed and nozzle all in one press!
6:22 The nozzle runs into the bed before the IN-ductive sensor triggers. I would bet that's the reason the Z leveling is inconsistent. A fix could be lowering the sensor by turning the threads which secure it. The Z adjustment (on screen) looks to be an offset, so tuning that after the adjustment might work. I don't have my hands on a CR10, so maybe something you could test. :) Interesting points though!
Could you scrape/remove the black cover from the bed of the pro,and lay glass right atop the aluminum?
Had same problem with auto bed levelling on my Anet, the thing was I should heat it up before bed levelling and then it worked every time. It's not a big deal performing auto bed levelling every time you print, just add it to your start gcode. Also, Buildtak, I find it one of the best options, don't use spatula, it's thick, I had best result using utility knife where you slide it fully out and then wedge on side of print and slide it under print. This way you should avoid cutting Buildtak cos the knife is parallel to it.
Your first review on the CR-10 is what convinced me to bite the bullet and buy a 3D printer! It's been a lot of fun.
I struggled with bed adhesion and leveling starting out, so I got a second Z-axis stepper, but it's most likely unnecessary. I found what works best for adhesion is actually lime juice! Plus, I think it smells much better than hairspray. As for bed leveling, I found the best way was to print a file that prints a square in each corner and the center, adjusting the bed as it prints, and re-printing the file as needed until each square has a proper thickness.
The factory glass build plate on my printer seemed to sag slightly in the center, so I switched it for a 12"x12" mirror that you can get at most hardware stores. This has the added benefit of looking cool (IMO) and also gives you an easy view of the nozzle.
I removed the factory feet, and installed printed ones that hold yellow foam golf balls to dampen vibrations.
I also have printed a LED strip holder that fits right on the top bar and wired it directly into the power supply. (I know this could be a bad idea, but I don't think they draw much current and have not had any issues)
The last upgrade I've added is a Raspberry Pi with Octoprint and it is great. Not only does it allow remote viewing of prints, but makes controlling and printing a breeze. No longer do I have to navigate through menus on the printer screen with the scroll button, I can easily change the temperature, move, and extrude with the keyboard. No longer do I have to remove the SD, I can immediately upload g-code from within Cura. Totally worth it.
Shoot I need to finish setting up Octoprint! Never heard of using lime juice.. Very interesting
You have answered the question I have been agonizing over for a week. Just ordered a cr-10. Thanks 😊
Hows it working?
As a owner to a CR-10S and 2 CR-10S Pro's and a ender 3, Prusa MK2S I did not like the default build plate on the Pro as well i moved to wham bam build plate. I am seeing the same issues with leveling with mine I even had to stop print a few times on account that it would move my nozzle to low and would not allow filament to come out. I got to say your review is spot on from what i see and i am thinking of putting BL touch on my Pro's
@@136videos Unfortunately No nothing official as of yet anyway. I just got bit by the 3d printer bug. and I dont like to wait 3 weeks for a project to get finished :) dealing with the slowness of FDM printing the more printers you add the less wait time you have when doing projects. Now i can get nice/complex projects done with in 24 hours. I am currently looking at adding 2 more printers to my arsenal. I want a delta printer just cuz i dont have one yet. and i want a duel extruder or a pallet 2 if they can ever get off of the cloud for software. and maybe now that SLA printers are coming down in price maybe...... its getting close
can you play ur intro with 3d printer( using midi file ) using the motor to genrate noise.( you can place 3d printer on wood or metal table to amplify the sound)
Picked up a CR10S pro to accompany my first printer an ender 3 Pro V2. Loved the Ender 3 so much I thought I'd love this "Upgraded" CR10 even more. Well over all I am not really a fan either. It's not bad in any particular way just not really worth the hype. If all you want to print with is PLA than I actually think it's a solid option although a bit pricey for that purpose.
However if you ever plan to regularly print higher end materials like ASA or CFNylon that require an enclosure than a CR10S is the better option IMO for one important reason. There are very limited enclosure options for the CR10S Pro and the ones that are available all include the electrical base within the enclosure which is not advised for printer longevity. I ended up having to custom make a raised enclosure which took a good bit of personal time to design and "fabricate". The CR10S with it's separated electronics and power supply is much more suitable to enclosure use.
I have the Anet A8 and was considering changing the direct drive to a Bowden tube to do multicolored prints. Would it be possible for you to do a video on this? I have been watching your videos for a while now and can never get enough.... even if I do watch them a few times. This week I tried to make a PLA sheet using waste parts and it came out really well, all due to your videos.
Great idea with the extended legs to be able to fit the power supply under. I'll be adding those to my CR-10S.
If u have power outage alot get ups its much better than any 3d printer resume function
How long did it take you to print that huge basket?
This definitely helped me decide what direction to go! Would love to see a video showing all the upgrades you made to the CR-10!
Very nice and honest review. Some people think that by purchasing more expensive or "Latest and Greatest" that they are better. I haven't been 3D printing that much and I'm still fairly new to it but my Ender 3 is an awesome printer. I have a Printrbot Simple Metal that needs a new board, I think, an Anet A8 that I need to get using again a CR-10 that is still in its box and needs to be built along with my just arrived CR-10 V2. I love designing and printing parts and sometimes forget I even have them to much going on I guess.
On the subject of glass build surface v/s Buildtak: The build surface used should match the material being printed and the piece being printed. Buildtak stick so much better than glass. I have never had a bed adhesion problem unless the Buildtak was in need of replacement because it has ran its lifespan. In my experience, you can't remove a print from a buildtak surface without flexing the base. Using a spatula on the Buildtak, compromises the material. Glass is fine and better depending in certain situations and material. Likewise, Buildtak is better for the same reason. One of the things that would drive this is large parts printed from materials with a high coefficient of thermal expansion like ABS or Nylon. I have been able to successfully print larger ABS parts on Buildtak with no warping because it sticks so good. However, the small parts are extremely hard to remove from Buildtak because they flex with the plate and will not pop off. For that reason, I use both glass and Buildtak on my CR-10S which has a BLTouch. With the BLTouch, I swap the build surface and run the print. No setup is required to deal with difference in thickness because the BLTouch checks this distance and adjusts for it on every print. I have several printers but, my main two printers are my heavily modded CR-10S and a Raise3D E2. The E2 has a Buildtak surface and that is what turned me on to Buildtak. I also have a 1st generation dual extruder Makerbot Replicator that I have modified to have a glass build surface among other things. It's basically modified to the max.
some of the cons you mentioned with the cr10s pro v2, are very opinion based, and they have easier remedies, then you might think, i owned a monoprice printer with the same buildtak/aluminum combo, and i did run into the same problem with the buildtak ripping upon removal of prints. i found it extremely easier to simply replace the buildtak on the bare aluminum with blue painters, tape, it makes removal of the print, far easier to remove aswell and not only that, it makes the surface cleaner, on the bottom of the print, as you can replace it after each print. as for the autoleveling, i believe you can set the printer to auto level before each print, via gcode. so you would simply just start your print, let it level the bed, then run youre good to let it continue printing. no intervention required. atleast thats how i did it with my monoprice mini delta. i realise no 2 printers are the same, but generally, alot of printers, have features similar to other printers.
What 3D printer do you reacomand non inspenive
Wish I had seen this before I bought the pro model. Leveling is a pita.
I’ve had a cr10 mini for awhile now. I love it. Thanks for the vid :)
Had buildtak on my Monoprice Mini, gouged it getting the 2nd print off. By the 5th print I had ordered a borosilicate glass replacement. Bought a CR-10s, replaced the stock glass with an IKEA mirror. Both glass surfaces worked great with purple glue stick, don't like hair spray. Currently have a PEI sheet on one of my IKEA mirrors. It's only issue is every scratch and nick shows up in the bottom of my prints. But there's no clean up and prep is a quick wipe with 97% isopropyl alcohol.
Hey man, Creality might not like you too much after this, but I'm sending you some love. Nice review and very up front.
Hi, I am about to purchase my first printer. Been watching you videos. Thanks for all the work you put into them. If I am not looking to spend extra time on upgrading a printer, and I’m willing to spend around $700, what do you recommend? Mostly to be used for prototype prints and injection mold inserts. Ease of use for a newbie and quality prints are important
Thank your review, I will by CR-10 for my first 3d printer.
Great video as always! I have taken your advice to upgrade the CR-10s with the features that are most appealing from the pro model. Just added the dual drive gear! Only reason I would actually opt for the pro version would be the 24V, what temp can the bed reach?
Thanks Devin for the comparison review of these printers. Thank you for sharing with us.
I like having a printer I can hack around on and the CR-10S fits the bill. With the Pro I know I would want to change things about the interface and add new options in the firmware, and it just doesn’t seem nearly as accessible for that.
I don't really see the appeal of touch screens. I mean a print can take hours, why would I care about a few extra seconds when navigating through the menu.
Yea, it's pretty convenient enough to be able to print 3d objects at the press of a button in a menu lol
Right, it's handy but not at all necessary
got question i use cr10s more then 1 year now i lose quality i always print at 0.2 LH but now any print i make have bad quality any idea you have guys ?
@@136videos thank you :)
It's an INDUCTIVE sensor, not conductive. What most likely is causing the inconsistency in your bed leveling is the heated bed and nozzle are causing interference with the sensor since they give off EMFs. EMFs cause interference with the inductive sensors. This is why in the TH3D Unified Firmware, there is an option to turn off the heaters for a split second when the sensor takes it's measurement. Try this and let us know if that helped!!!!
I have seen several videos of which is the best printer and your video helped me a lot, thank you very much for all the information
😃
so now i am torn between cr 10 and cr 10s... not sure which one is best bang for the buck.. Thax
problem with the sticking prints on the S Pro can be solved by setting the bed heat to 70 'c and then you flip it off with ease
Loved this review, could you please look into the CR10 Max? I'm not sure if I should get that or the original CR10 5S
I have an Ender 3 and it came with that BuildTac surface. I had many chips in it because my prints would stick too much. Thankfully I invested in a Glass build plate, which was an amazing idea to get one.
I do get your points, but some of them I don't agree with. The biggest plus I think you missed is the dual geared extruder. I have a palete 2 and trust me that's a huge difference in consistently feeding filament over a normal extruder there. Also something's like you mentioning not being able to do your dual color/layer because of it needing to probe I don't think you really tried hard enough, that's all in your starting script of your slicer. And mine probes about inches in from the corner so worst case if you can't stop it proving you still have a about a 10 x 10 build area. Also some of the parts are legitimate upgrades like the meanwell(not generic like other cr"s) power supply. Auto level sensor while it does have its quirks is more of you need to adjust how far off it's sitting from the bed(2mm) and learn to tune the red light and it's not too bad, it's been months in-between when I need to screw with that. But also because of that tuning and nailing my z home Everytime I quite like the build tack surface. If you are at a good first layer height AND let the bed cool down to ambient it's super easy to get the prints off. If your having problems getting prints off the auto sensor probably isn't tuned right. The trimamic drivers and them being silent is nice. But as far as quality prints go you really need to be doing organic type prints more than the flat surface ones you showed. The y axis is also upgraded. You should be able to push a Pro to faster speeds with less speed related artifacts also. I don't disagree the normal cr10 is probably when people should start looking. But the CR10s pro upgrades are worth the extra money and in alot of ways it is a better printer. It would be rough to do all of the upgrades and not come out close $ wise and don't forget your own time is worth something too. Updrades take time
they have since changed the auto-leveling sensor which has fixed the leveling issue on the pro it has the blue sensor and the pro v2 has a Bltouch both of which have much better accuracy and do very well in abl
I hate glass beds. Although with my *heavily* modified Ender 3 I rarely print PLA, which benefits the most from glass.
Yea, I print almost exclusively PLA
Yeah, manual leveling is a breeze if the printer's surface is not warped. I got cr10s. Alluminium bed was warped in the middle just like the glass surface-had to return it as It was impossible to level it. Forums recommended an aluminum foil to compensate for warps-which is ridiculous when you pay nearly £400. It's apparently a very common issue with the cr10. The run out sensor on the CR10s is a joke. Both CR10 and CR10s are for DIY 3d enthusiasts. I think PRO version is more user friendly for people who do not want to spend hours reading forums to install mods.
Unfortunately, the original CR-10 is no longer available for US shipping. Only Europe has stock apparently.
I have a CR-10s Pro and I love it. Out of the box it was a solid 3D printer and I have not had any of the issues you have had so that’s a good thing. Love the videos and I love my CR-10s pro.
Did you get it recently? Maybe they fixed things further with the firmware
I have been using it none stop for 2 months, I did upgrade to the Tinymachines firmware but I didn’t see any difference.
What surface is your favorite bed material now? Does it depend on filament material?
Yaaaaaaaasss!!! I hazz duh CR10 now and I've been considering selling it to afford the CR10S Pro. You just convinced me to keep my original CR10. And now, I'm going to go print the minor upgraded you have in the description, to give my CR10 that brand new feeling again!
Nice, glad I could help!
I would add to that the CR-10S PRO seems to have slightly sturdier frame, it should be able to get slightly higher speeds without any degradation in print quality.
why do all the making stuff and creative channels have to throw out these review nowadays. there's like a hundred of these already.
People still ask for them and also TH-cam ads don't pay us enough 🙄
@@make.anything but are the people that ask for them the user base that got you where you are? or are they the masses that get pandered to by everyone and alienate the original viewer base.. kinda tired of youtube for this reason, didnt meant o poop on your vid but its everywhere now and this was the one that finally made me disable youtube notifications entirely
@@jasonm2477 reviews are a big part of what grew my audience to this point. I'm always trying to balance my content, so sorry if this particular video isn't what you're interested in!
Hey Devin, I was thinking about getting the CR-X, but this gave me second thoughts. Does the dual extruder is worth these ""downgrades""? I would appreciate your opinion. Thanks!
I have the CR-X and it's even more trouble than the pro. I generally discourage getting dual extruders unless you absolutely need it for dissolvable supports or something... It just adds more areas for things to go wrong
Hey Devin I love your videos!!! And I was wondering since I saw other TH-camrs put there own spin on recreating a Bob Ross painting I was wondering if you could maybe try and recreate a Bob Ross painting too but by 3D printing it? That would be sooooo cool if you do! I really hope you can consider!
I need your help, my printer is been out of commission for almost 2 years now and I don't know how to fix it. I've tried everything
I've had that trouble with my CR10S Pro with inconsistent bed leveling as well. I tried all these tricks others suggested to fix but none worked for me. I ended up installing a BL Touch. I've also switched to a glass bed. I prefer that smooth look as well. After two months of use though I'm needing to fix touch screen. It thinks I'm pressing somewhere else on my screen than I actually am.I think a stepper motor has gone bad because now when the stepper is disabled the printer will just slide down on the left side. Was not doing this till just a couple of days ago. And lastly, during some prints, the temperature just drops. Instead of being at 60 bed/225 nozzle, they go to 25/25 or so for standby temperatures and printer keeps on trying to print. I'm not as impressed with the touch screen when it was working. I saw a post on Reddit where they replaced the screen with the older style like on the cr10. I might go ahead and retro-grade like that.
those feet! I must print a set - will they fit cr10s? three feet only???
Thanks for your great videos - you are really helping the community!
do you think the auto leveling would work better if you used a glass bed on the pro?
Does higher nozzle & bed temperature make any difference in terms of better/more versatile?
Can you make on of those charts that have the model listed on one end, and features on the other, with little X's & O's in the boxes for which feature each has or doesn't? Then maybe add a "?" For features that could be added to a previous model? That would be the most helpful. Thanks.
very cool review and what about cr 10 v2 or v3 did you try that???
Awesome review. I recommend looking at the Evnovo Sidewinder X1 as it is $400-430 and has a similar frame to the CR 10S Pro but with a Titan Aero and E3D volcano direct drive extruder plus filament runout. It also has an AC heat bed which is super fast and dead silent steppers.
I'm reviewing it in 2 weeks or so 😉
I love my original cr-10
Change the sensor to a inductive version, capacitive sensors can produce inconsistencies due to temperature variations and I don't believe there's any temperature compensation...
couple of mods and the cr-10s pro is great replace that with a touch lvling sensor, glass bed and some other mods.
Can the aluminum platen be replaced with the glass platen used on the cheaper one? Or any compatible glass platen? Why do you need to level the build platen at all? I mean how does it shift out of factory specs if it is built properly?
I would love your opinion on the CR-10S Pro Version 2. Has it made enough improvement to warrant the jump from the 10 or 10s? Or you would still go with a modded 10?
Thank you
Hi great video
I’m looking to buy 3d printer but can’t really decide between ender 3 v2 ,ender 5 or cr-10s
Which one do you think is better choice ?
Love this down to earth honest approach you have taken in this video, awesome. I love my Ender 3, wish Creality would release a basic machine that had an easy factory installed upgrade path like auto bed levelling.
I can't stop looking at the moire effect on your shirt
Please do a video on the best 3D pen for beginners, I’m in the market for one and it would be really helpful thanks! BTW good video.
The pens are fun, but honestly are more of a novelty than a go-to 3d printer alternative. I've had a blast with the 3doodler, just takes some practice to make that Eiffel Tower stand straight! I think there are plenty of affordable printers out there to make them worth considering over the pens!
Hello, I have a Creality CR-10S Printer that I can't get to print. The z Axis goes up and down when homing but won't When Printing. It just stays on the first layer. Is this a printer problem or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?
Buildtak style, creality's version of "buildtak" has always been off.
Not a fan of buildtak either, but with the heated bed at 40 C, prints actually do come right off.
I love my CR10S Pro. WAAY better than the DIY build Acrylic 3D printers from 5 years ago.
Not sure if the guys at BuildTak like you talking smack about the surface on the Pro as it is NOT a BuildTak surface, but a FakeTak...
I've had the same experience with official BuildTak, but you're right. I've been using it as a generic term
Its PEI surface
Cr10s I find is the best of both worlds
Hi a bit of advice please I know nothing about 3D printing but what to try to print some locksport bits I like the look of the cr 10 but which one will work the easiest for a total novice ? Thanks in advance for any help you maybe able to offer
great review.. ! how about cr10 v2? is it worth the upgrade?
I just finished setting up my CR 10, but I lost the SD card it came with so I had to get a new one. I just tried leveling the bed using the paper method, and I have a bed leveling print to help me dial it in perfectly.
1
I've enjoyed it, and it was soooo informative! THANK YOU!
Hi which one would you recommend between the cr-10 v3 or the cr-10s pro?
I`ve had my cr10s pro for 7 months and still not got it printing 100% yet, I fitted a mirror which you could say is glass and still thinking of a bltouch.
I think if I was going to get a number 3 printer , I would get a cr10s and add a bltouch and a direct extruder.
I don't get why so many youtubers have problems with auto bed level. My cr10s Pro auto level works like a charm, I press print and don't have to monitor the first layer, ever. The time I saves is worth every dollar.
Cuz many units of cr 1os pro comes woth very bad beds and sensors
@@hamadadel7326 ,
it makes sense. I guess I was lucky to get one of the early models, with glass bed under the black adhesive, rather than aluminium.
Nice but how do you 3d model the components up what cad software do you use?
Can you go over the upgrades you made to your original cr-10? Is it still the same board, extruder? Did you add auto levelling? Etc
I've only added the 3D printed mods shown in this video, and swapped the nozzle a few times, but no major hardware changes
Great Video! Do you know of any videos that give a good tutorial on how to manually level the CR-10 and what I should be looking for when I level it? If not, would you consider making one?
Amazing as always, Devin. Keep it up!