I've been listening to feedback, playing with my camera and hopefully the end of the annoying auto focus problems are over. I always welcome constructive feedback to help improve my content. Too bad I had noteable instead of notable in my graphic. Argh!
The video seemed great to me, but I did notice the audio quality was a bit tiring to listen to. It sounds like maybe too much compression, either applied or from the mic itself. BTW I watch everything on 2x.
awesome viddy! did you have a viddy comparing the huge printers? on a different note i find your reviews the easiest and most informative as you cover all the bases but don't have a format of video that becomes drull and long/boring. keep up the awesome work! happy to subscribe.
So at 12 minutes you mentioned another 3d printer, is that video up yet? Im new, have no experience and shopping around for 3d printers. I want to be able to do small and large pieces which is why im looking at large bed printers. It seems the s10 has alot of issues but when tweaked, looks like it could be great, but is there something newer/ better i should look into? Id greatly appreciate any feedback. I dont want to exceed spending $600 so thats my cap.
I have the Sidewinder X1 (revision 4) since a few weeks and have to say, that's the best 3D printer I have seen bellow 1000 Dollars. The bed is AC powered and extremely fast, it levels very easy, it's fast and it prints almost all materials out of the box in high quality. I just love that printer.
3d Print Creator I just got version 4 and can’t get it to print such high quality at all, I’m having weird layer waves and such lol gonna wait for a profile to come out for it
This is what I’ve been leaning towards, but As it will be my first printer I’m nervous with the mixed reviews.. x1 v4 seems like the best bang for the buck but I’m not really all that confident in my ability to push through the “problems”
For the noobs trying to get started there is a lot of stuff to learn, several decisions to make. The questions “what printer should I buy? What design software should I use and what slicer?” Are all met with mixed reviews, differing opinions and advice from across the spectrum.. I love this channel for its clear fact based approach..
I paid $500 for my CR10s Pro from Walmart. Had no issues with the bed leveling or probe sensor. I did however upgrade the print surface to the WhamBam. In one month I have over 300 print hours with no problems printing flexible, PLA and ABS.
that's great. I ordered mine yesterday for $459.00 online. It had consistent reviews with excellent quality and robust system...500w supply, dual z-axis, etc. Looking forward to it. It's my first 3D printer! Thanks for your feedback.
@@RozsaAmplificationLLC mine also it's first printer I don't know it's good deal or bad after going through the online reviews I am afraid now that did I make mistake because it has issue with bed leveling and extruder and feeder mechanism in longer term use. Please let me know what is your observations on it.
Michael, you are a true asset to the community. I always look forward to your videos because I always seem to learn something new. Keep up the great work!
I picked up an Artillery3D X1 a few weeks ago and It was a great investment. I am already thinking about purchasing a second unit. It is super fast, quiet and has been producing great prints.
The X1's direct drive should get more mention. We change filament types a lot and experiment with everything. Direct drive makes it easy to tune for the whole family.
I have a CR10s PRO. I have added the Creality version of the Ultrabase glass bed, the filament guide wheel, Updated the firmware, replaced the fan duct with the "near stock" version you recommended, and swapped the factory capacitive leveling sensor with an industrial version from a respected brand. I don't re-run the auto bed leveling every time, but I do reset the z home height before every print. Thanks to your videos and those of others that covered this printer I have been very satisfied with my prints and the quality of them.
Great review Michael. If I had not already bought the sidewinder from your first review I would probably still buy it after this comparison. Thanks for explaining 3D printing very well, as I’m only a few weeks into this new world your videos are gold.
Love my CR 10s Pro. I have updated it, Z anti backlash which gives no slip between the Z screws. Inductive sensor which now gives no temperature / humidity effects on height. Also added G29 to the start script and problems with first layer have disappeared (occasionally get a bad start). Yes it does take longer, but it really works. Also I use the TinyMachines3D code, which fixes a lot of Creality issues.
Decided to take the plunge and ordered an artillery. Can't wait to get it. Im glad to see something different come out and looks like its well thought out
Artillery3D X1 has been amazing. Only had one issue and that was when the print didn't stick, I got a blob of PLA. After clean up and leveling, started working again. Mine came with the new ultrabase. Its good and prints stick to it 99% of the time. However, its got be kept clean and if past experience holds, ultrabase wears down after a year. I guess time will only tell, but I'd prefer if it came with glass which is easy to maintain and replace. So that is me being picky. Its been great so far. Haven't had to make a single change or fix so far.
I have the Tevo Tornado and love that machine. It was a work horse before I did upgrades to it, but it's a super beast now. Added an E3D V6 Volcano to it, along with a second Z screw. Then topped it off with an SKR 1.3 with TMC2208 drivers, and Ultrabase glass bed.
Jason Driscoll that’s a nice Tevo Tornado, sounds great! But nowadays the Artillery have all that by factory just without the e3d hotend... I think it has a titan style extruder and it is direct-drive. The glass is ceramic that expand (thermal expansion) much less than regular, borosilicate and temperated glasses. I use a ceramic glass in my Ultimaker and it least 3 years until now without any demage and Z variarion.. it’s super flat! Earlier I switch the glasses many times.. like 3 by 3 months. My ceramic one is made by Schott, a German manufacture... don’t know about this and Tevo Flash that is also ceramic glass. Cheers!
I bought a Sidewinder based on your review. As you say, the support isn't as good a Creality, but it seems to be improving over time. I've been very happy with the prints I get from it, after an initial period of dialing in my slicer profile. Since then, it has been a dependable workhorse.
Nice review! I think the comparisons should be done with the same filament though, as different colors make it hard to pick out differences, and also the filaments could handle completely differently.
Differences in colour are not enough of a distinct change in how the filament prints. Unless he legit got a wet roll. I get it would be easier to see the faults because of lighting with the colour but there is no distinct changes in fillament performance when colour is added enough to skew a print to make a defined solid evidence of colour making a spool faulty
I use the capacitive sensor that come stock on the CR10S-PRO. When I first got the machine it kept ramming itself into the bed. I found that lowering the sensor to just a few mill above the nozzle tip and adjusting the sensor screw with trial and error gave me great reliable prints. I print non-stop with confidence now. I lost a couple bed surfaces in the proccess though ... had no clue what was wrong.
I have a CR-10S Pro and after upgrading the sensor to a high temperature rated inductive sensor my Z offset never changes. I also swapped out the hot end for a Micro Swiss all metal. The Wham Bam magnetic bed I have is a real winner, I print mainly PETG and I don’t even need to use a brim now. I also designed and printed a couple of cable management upgrades that tidy the printer up.
In 2022 the Big Thunder is way past consideration but you can still buy them. One of my biggest purchasing mistakes. Severely warped aluminum bed that the auto-leveling can't overcome. Outdated board and LCD screen and interface. Don't waste your money. Mine shipped from China, they ignored me when I asked to return it after 10 days. It was supposedly in stock here in US.
Hi, I think you forgot the Anet A8 plus. It is 300x300x350 build-volume and even a bit cheaper. For me it works with PETG and PLA, 24 Volt printer. Direct drive and it needs to be run a bit slower then the X1 with the smaller extruder but it works pretty well. Actually, for me it has less problems then the Artillery X1 with the nice-looking but somehow disconnecting and fast overheating ribbon-cables. The usable build-volume on the X1 is somewhat smaller for me (with PETG) since the corners and edges of the bed are not heated well enough and struggle to get more then 25 cms wide and long to stick on their surfaces (PETG/ ABS) and besides that the wide surface of 30 cms seems to be giving problems with the flatcables overtime. So, for me the X1 is now very nice for fast prints that go high but not too wide and the A8 plus is more suitable for a big surface-area but less hight and less speed. I think that if you stick to PLA the build-volume of the X1 is well too and then with the (new) surface you hardly need any heating.
Thanks for the video, good comparison. As I read through all the comments, I don't see comments about BIQU Thunder so far. I bought this printer in Dec 2018 and I probably USED it between 100-150 hours and it died hard in July. I really like this printer for its quality, ease of use and other features and it's very quiet besides the fan noise. The stock printbed is OK to use (I had to use raft for print to stick) but I upgraded with E3D flexible surface which is really good. When I tried to print again next day after a last successful print with auto-shutdown the night before, I had trouble setting PLA temperature (I use PLA most of the time) and shut machine down. I checked heatprobe and thermistor and they seemed to be OK. Just to make long story short. After I restored the machine to factory settings, the machine was dead silent, no fan noise, nothing even without nozzle connected. Contacted factory and they sent me a new board for further troubleshooting the problem. The machine is still down as of this writing.
I think your videos are great and I have learned a lot from them. I initially had lots of problems with my CR10S Pro. I used Luke Hatfield’s guide to fix some of them. I also had to shim bottom of the gantry to make the uprights perpendicular to the base. I added a bltouch and the hero me fan shroud and now it is a great printer. I still want to add a e3d volcano or a mosquito hot end so I can print with a bigger nozzle without having to slow way down.
With a Volcano you can print same speed with a nozzle with higher diameter, thats right. But even with the already upgraded fan shroud: You have to cool much more mass of hot filament to get good results at overhangs and bridging. A 0.8 mm Nozzle with 0.4 mm layerhight extrudes 8 times as much filament than a 0.4 mm nozzle with 0.2mm layerhight. So when using same speed in x and y, you need at least 8 times the air for same cooling results. The Sidewinder X1 uses a Volcano with high speeds. I slowed it down to the speeds used by Prusa to get good results - because overhangs where bad due to the fact the fan could not keep up...
I have had a cr-10 (original) and an anycubic i3 mega for a couple of years now and wanted to upgrade to something new. My cr-10 has been an absolute beast of a machine with little issues even with upgrades like the fang part cooling fan and motor dampers it took the upgrades and only made things better while the i3 mega was great out of the box it broke down over time so I made it an abs printer. It then quit printing at temps 240c and above. I replaced everything I could do easily (hot end, stepper drivers, power supply, etc...) and it still had the issue so I retired it until recently I decided to order a new board for it then I got my US stimulus money and bought a sw x1 kinda of as an impulse buy forgetting about the board I ordered. The board showed up and I told a friend I would loan him the i3 mega as I needed space. I decided to upgrade the fans and bearings when I did this board swap and now it prints like a dream and I kinda regret telling my friend he could borrow it lol. Hopefully the x1 prints as well as the i3 mega does now. The main reason I went with the x1 is the bed and the direct drive. I love printing "weird" materials like ABS, nylon, and flexible materials. The AC heated bed should make this super easy/fast and the direct drive means no more extruder spaghetti (hopefully). Just as an FYI you can print flexible with a bowden it just takes lots of time and a couple small upgrades.
ive owned the Artillery 3d x1 for about a week and a few days, been pushing out prints left and right already did two long prints one at 23 hours and another at 25 , then plenty of smaller prints. I think im end up getting another.
I have six medium format FDM printers and just added an MSLA resin printer. I've been thinking of adding a large format FDM printer for production. I'd like linear rails, direct drive for flexible TPU and the ability to enclose and heat the build volume for ABS without heating the electronics. I'd pay $100 more for rugged and reliable electronics. Use a large heat sink on oversized power electronics rather than barely capable transistors or other power electronics and tiny aluminum foil heat sinks. There is a market for a $1000 light industrial printer that's reliable and maintainable for many years, positioned between hobby printers and a Stratasys.
Thank you for review, it is awesome that you do comparisons because I have been struggling with which one to purchase. Now that I have more to go on I am also going to get Artillery3D X1 it seems to be more suited to my needs and others, not only on this site but elsewhere, have purchased with good reviews almost all of which direct me back to your video. Thanks again!
I have the SW X1 and have had some issues with it. Overall, I would definitely not recommend it for new users as the fixes require a bit of electronics knowledge but once you get it tuned, it works great!
I already recently bought a Tevo Tornado that I haven't even set up yet, and just made a great deal on a newer barely used X1 with a BLTouch installed. Company bought it to print face shields for their company in the pandemic, only used it a few times, and are now selling it to me heh.
Got the Sidewinder X1 on sale for $400. Really great printer out of the box. The only thing I would mention is that the lever that allows you to change the filament will break if you overtighten the screw. However, you can get a replacement on Thingiverse.
Great review, wondering what an update would be like with the Artillery x2. The upgrades seem to address a lot of the issues you brought up. Debating between that and the CR-10S Pro
Hi Michael, I've been using a basic CR-10 for the last couple of years. Usual 'upgrades' such as fan duct and Capricorn PTFE tube. It's been great and I print PLA, ABS, TPU, PETG and even Nylon-CF with it. Anyway, the time has come to get another. I like the Creality brand as parts are easy to source and they're relatively easy to work on. So what would your thought be if you had a choice of the CR-10S Pro and the CR-10 MAX. Price difference is not a concern, but just not sure that I'm going to maximise the use of the bigger build volume. It's very rare that my CR-10 is too small. Interested to hear your comments. I'm swaying towards the CR-10S Pro and will then be following your top tips if and when I find the Creality hidden issues :-). Thanks for your great and informative videos....Matt
The only issue I had with mine was I had to calibrate the extruder, however that should be done with all the printers. Every filament is different and alot of times you cant set it to 1 and expect perfect with all of them.
Tevo Tornado is a very under-rated printer I've had mine for 2 years absolutely love it and its my go to printer. It just keeps going no issues. Upgraded to BL Touch and a Polypropylene bed.
Hi! I'm late to the party on this video, but wondering if you've seen the updated V2 of the CR-10s Pro...and if so, whether you think it's worth pursuing for someone starting out in 3D printing, but needing both small scale (detailed) prints, and the ability to print larger scale items?
Good comparison, thx! Each manufacturer seems to continually 'update' their features, so never quite sure if the iteration you're ordering also reflects those changes. But sounds like Artillery/Evnovo at least tries to make sure that any printer currently 'in-stock' from vendors also comes ready-to-go with their latest mods and firmware.
I have the Artillery....fantastic machine. Non-removable glass bed sucks. My fix are big box mirror sheets (10 for $10) with tried and true hair spray, remove for fast cool down and slap another sheet on and print again. no cool down. This bed heats up incredibly fast and prints so accurate/fast for all filaments with the direct extruder. Highly recommended.
I purchased a CR10S Pro at launch and had many issues, mainly firmware and abl sensor/bed leveling issues. After replacing the stock sensor with an inductive one (8 bucks from amazon and plug and play) and using tiny machines B7 version firmware they made for the cr10s pro its been a fantastic printer. If Creality would lower the price to around the 500 dollar mark its a no brainer imo.
I have a CR-10s and love it. Only drawback is the clunky electronics box. I have upgraded all of the fans to Noctua and upgraded the bed heater to 110 with. One questions I have been trying to find out is about 32-bit. I have heard the print quality with a 32-bit board is way better. It is able to run through the g-code much more fluidly. Do you agree with this or are the CR-10 Pro and X1 achieving similar surface finish and noise as the biqu? Do you see any advantage with the 32-bit board? Thank you in advance!
32bit boards are known to give better prints when printing at high speeds, not sure it matters much at slower speeds. The physical design/build is a bigger factor with print quality.
When you do a comparison like this on the XL printer line, can you compare Formbot (Vivedino?) Raptor/T-Rex 3, Creality S-10 Max and Xinkebot Orca 2? Been kinda stuck picking between those 3 in particular because every review always says "It's fantastic but-" and the but gets very concerning.
Instead of CR-10s i bought the regular CR-10 but added a Capricorn tube and BL Touch. I don't think it needed them. Before the upgrades it printed PLA flawlessly and i only needed to use a Glu Stick to help bed adhesion lifting. The next goal is to get ABS just as flawless in some sort of enclosure (atm the box it comes with fits perfectly).
Hi Michael, how about even further outside the box with the Anycubic Predator, delta style printer. It's got a 370 mm round by 455 mm high build volume so I would consider it a large printer. It's a delta so it can print fast. It has an Ultrabase print surface and auto bed leveling. I'm not sure how I'd classify the extruder since it has a Titan style extruder, suspended above the print head with a short bowden tube connecting it. The price is similar to the CR-10S pro at $600. For me, the fast print speed potential and the ease of enclosing the print area make it an interesting option for printing high temperature materials, quickly.
Sidewinderx1 prints PETG well also on .8 nozzle. Biggest Problem for me so far is the parts cooling fan that i have a tendency to break somehow...two times in under a year. And the Bed has some warping issues under temperatures which needs to be taken into account when leveling. In general though im quite content.
Hi Michael I have a CR 10s pro and have followed the tiny machines upgrade. The problem now is that i have lost the power failure fixture as well as the printing pause not going to the side of the bed but stopping on top of the print. Is there a upgrade that fixes this problem? If yes can you share it with me.By the way very good video as always. Regards and thank you for your time.
The new prob is blue at the tip and is much more consistent the original one . It is also sensitive enough to run a no metal print surface such as glass or a polypropylene plate with and recalibration of the sensor. The tiny machines 3d firmware for the screen and main-board firmware also add more prob points for a higher quality mesh and a few more button functions.
I own a cr10s pro. I dont think they have an QC before shipping out as i had to fix up quiet a lot of things. It took a fair while to dial it in but the prints are awesome. If you want something out of the box that works i would seriously think of getting something else. If you are willing to tinker with it and fix up all the annoying things its worth it, esp if you get it on a huge discount like i did :)
for me the artillery is the best printer I ever owned ! (and I started with an Ultimaker original about 10 years ago) Ready to print in about 20 minutes, very good print quality, fast heating bed and so Silent ! Maybe the nozzle need to be replaced to a better one because the stock one is not so good.
Personally I've been very content with my CR-10S. Added double geared extruder hobs, diagonal frame braces as on the later versions, tighter tolerance bowden tube and coupllings, and a 500W mains AC (through solid a solid state relay) silcone pad bed heater. 100+°C in under a minute. Next on the schedule is a new volcano hotend and an insulated and heated enclosure. The build volume has me more than covered for my type of projects, and seeing how this form factor seem to have stuck very well, I'm willing to put a bit of extra effort into the enclosure as it likely will fit without extensive modifications should I replace the printer later. So aiming for a chamber that can mintain and tolerate 150+°C for extended periods, and still not look misplaced in the living room corner.
Agreed. Would love to get more reviews of the Ender 5 Plus. I've got an Ender 3x and am thinking of getting another printer in a few months - would love to hear more thoughts on the E5P.
The Ender 5 pro is not a corexy! It is also a cartesian (but in the classic cube style moving bed in z and head in x and y). Corexy would be an other kinematik (2 xy-motors working together with long belts, while on the Ender 5 pro the motor for x mounted on the x-axis (so more moving mass). Corexy in this size would be f.e. the Tronxy X5s in the 300*300 version.
I just got the opportunity to get the V2 version of the Cr-10s pro for cheaper or about as cheap as the sidewinder goes. Is the v2 better than sidewinder x1? Would you recommend me to buy that one?
For the XL you should include the Chiron I just love mine. Only thing I changed so far is I replaced the PTFE tube with a capricorn one as we print HIPS at 255 nozzle 105 bed 24/7 and it needs a cable holder as they could have done a better job with the wire running to the X gantry. Some have updated the fan but then we print mostly fan less so it has not been an issue
But then they have to build in an interface to control the heat safely to the bed, so extra parts needed. In the case of the X1 it is an extra box controlled with the mainboard for small temperature-changes. It also comes with a more expensive heatpad then the simple aluminium-based 24Volt beds.
One disadvantage missing for the Sidewinder X1: Very slow heating and much offset (about 10°C) between temperature shown in display and realy measurable on the surface of the heatbed. I take some very disappointing pictures with my flir, also showing differences of more than 20°C between middle of the bed and there the leveling screws are. On the other side, adding ABL with film probe is extremly easy and cheap. Only about $2+some cables or $5+some cables if you want also a PCB with LED.
@@3dprintingbiker693 how did you measure the real temperature? On drucktipps3d.de/forum/topic/aenderungen-am-artillery-evnovo-sidewinder-x1/?part=3#postid-46198 you can see the flir-picture 10 minutes after the display showed 90°C. It is without magnetic spring steel system. The highest real temperature on the surface is 85°C It can not be else: Glas is a bad heat conductor. So if the sensor in the silicone heater detects a temperature reached, the surface of the glas can not have reached it. Also due to the low heat transmission, thermal energy can not be transfered fast enough to compensate for the surrounding air cooling the surface. The magnetic base of a wham bam system or simular is even less heat conductive. So the differences are even higher. Have not posted my pictures yet, as is a not finished series of tests, so no link. Maybe Atillery corrected the offset between measured temperature and the surface temperature on stock printbed; but they could not have changed the physical behavior of glas. Actually in their published profiles, they use anfirst layer temperature of 90°C for PLA (!) but taking a measurement, the printbed is only 55°C on start of the print. With a benshee, the temperature of the bed is about 60°C after finishing the first layer. So using an unrealistic first layer temperature is obviosly a "Work around" for starting fast. But a very bad one, if you have a big print the first layer bad temperature might realy go up to 85°C on PLA, so above glastransition temperature. The right way to compensate slow heat transmission through glas would be a start gcode, heating up to 90°C, wait 4 minutes and than change bed temperature to 60°C (or 65°C if offset is not corrected). With magnetic base a bit longer and higher offset. But of course this do not solve the uneven heat distribution of the bed as seen in the thermal picture.
used tape and heat gun, also we have a flir thermal camera where I work so I was able to use that to take a peak at it. My last bed was 24v on my other printer, and I was curious to see if it would heat up differently. The x1 was a lot faster. and better coverage across the whole bed. Keep in mind this is with a WhamBam on it also so that probably helped to disperse the heat across better although probably slowing it down a little bit from stock. Still was alot faster than the jgaurora a5s though.
@@3dprintingbiker693 I use not Wham Bam but the simular system from AliExpress Energetic 3d store. There seems no difference in quality but the system from Energetic only costs a third compared to Wham Bam and the PEI-Sheet is already applied. Also I have a PEI powder coated 300x300 spring steel from Thekkiinngg (Canada). Its my absolute favorite. The magnetic base definitly not helps much. The AC-Heater of course heats up faster than a 24VDC bed; the problem is not the heater, but the glas. So if you compare the Sidewinder with another printer using an Ultrabase, it heats up fast. But if you compare it with a printer with AC heater and aluminium bed and magnetic spring steel, its slow. Also a aluminium bed spreads heat horizontal - aluminium is more heat conductive than steel and the bed is thicker than the spring steel. So it solves a bit of the problem of colder zones.
Definitely looking forward to your next video. I am just about ready to buy a second printer so it will be interesting to see. Great video as always. Thank you!
Hi, Yesterday I have purchased CR 10S Pro. Because that was the only one of large printer in market I am from India. I am going through the reviews I come to know that this printer has some leveling issue. Please tell me that I can use this printer for longer term and longer print or if it has any problem with extruder and filament feeder for longer term printing. Please reply me I am waiting...
Hi, I was wondering if you've got plans to further mod your sidewinder to a dual extrusion system. I think the x carriage is stable enough to have 2 direct drives and the possibility of a 2 to 1 switching nozzle, but got not clue regarding where to start with the electronics.
Hey TT great video as always, thanks random question??? a few months ago I brought a CR-10s of ebay(Australia) for AUD$538.86 (USD$366.32) how does that compare to the AUD$792.93 (USD$539.99) pro edition??? I really like the ender 3 build series, and it got me thinking... if i was to spend the money i saved on the non pro model, on a SKR board, nice drivers and a raspberry pi how would it compare in the end with cost vs performance to the out of the box pro edition??? could a CR-10s be a good contender for a build series??
hello, Thank you for your reviews, they are great. About the new model you mentioned 300x300x300mm in the end of the video. Which one is ? Thank you in advance
I dont have any of these but i think a great addition to this video would be tronxy x5sa, i have had mine for a little over a week and it prints nicely, is 330x330x400, 24volts, 32bit board. Only realy draw back is the fan for the board is incredibly loud. It needs to change. Also the printer was on a flash sale on gearbest for $315 plus there was a coupon so i paid 300.99 usd for this massove core xy printer that i am still learning but am so far impressed with
Hi, thanks for your your videos, always helpful. Quick questions, would you say the Artillery print quality would benefit from TL smoothers, or does the machine need quieter fans or other upgrades ?
The clone TMC2130 stepper drivers in the Sidewinder have many more features and filtering than the usual inexpensive Chinese machines with 4988 Drivers , although they probably stay in SpreadCycle mode (vsStealth Chop). TL Smoothers would have zero effect downstream for print quality with the TMC 2130 Drivers (or clones) :)
I'm debating on which to buy I'm stuck on the cr-10 and the tornado but from this video I'm debating the sidewinder if there is a new one out that's a better first printer then these I just don't want to buy it now then find out something new has came out that's better. Any suggestions I'm looking to start printing I've took a few months to think about it. I want to one in the next month.
Hi Michael, Thanks for a great video. Your channel is helping me a lot to get into 3D printing as I’m now looking to purchase my first printer. I know it’s difficult to give advice so instead of that I’d like to ask you a question, anyone else who reads this and want to answer, please, feel free. If you have to choose between the Artillery sidewinder X1 v4 or the BIQU-B1, which one will you choose and why? Thanks in advance Raul
While I appreciate the objective review - there almost does not seem to be a lot of differentiation between them. I would be curious to see a quality comparison on some test prints - or in your opinion which gives the best consistent print quality in pla? (honestly, I consider the prices close enough...if that makes sense). Finally, I would be curious how you think these measure up to say the ender 5 plus in terms of consistent print quality. thank you for your review.
Im getting my first 3d printer and I have some questions about it... Which one do you recommend between cr-10(also cr 10s possible) or artillery x1 if we only talk about print quality? Thanks you already!
@@adelowooyediran9166 hey Bros .I have done alot of researches on 3d printers with alot of mixed reviews from Prusa mk3 , Anet A8, creality cr10 and cr10 v2, cr10s pro and cr10s pro V2,creality 3 n 5 enders ,monoprice maker select plus .now too overwhelming just can't make a decision.all in all I'm looking for the best quality with low price.Hint me up bro.Naija 4life!
Hey. Are you planning on doing a comparison on the entry level SLA printers? I bought a Ender 3 Pro after your research and seeing how easy it is to upgrade and I'm looking now for a SLA printer and have no idea what to get on a budget but with good results
@@Xationch Thanks for the suggestion. I saw some reviews and some of the guys that got them had problems out of the box. That's the only thing that has me worried
Hi there so really keen to get into large format 3D printing but so many printers out there and so many versions hard to figure it all out is the CR-10s pro been reviewed here the V1 or 2 as I'm basically stuck deciding if to get the creality or artillery
Awesome video! The x1 is going to be my next printer. Between the three it seems to be the all around best. And after 4 Ender 3’s, I’m ready for a low fuss machine!! Corexy?? YES PLEASE!!!
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 85 | คู่เอก "ยอดเหล็กเพชร vs ผึ้งหลวง"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Qq_19bnnxEo/mqdefault.jpg)
I've been listening to feedback, playing with my camera and hopefully the end of the annoying auto focus problems are over. I always welcome constructive feedback to help improve my content. Too bad I had noteable instead of notable in my graphic. Argh!
The video seemed great to me, but I did notice the audio quality was a bit tiring to listen to. It sounds like maybe too much compression, either applied or from the mic itself. BTW I watch everything on 2x.
Looking great to me. Oh not, not spelling error, how sinful :-) We've all done it mate, the machines only do what we tell em ... at least for now :-)
Content content content....Great as always! Everything else is fine, actually quite good.
awesome viddy! did you have a viddy comparing the huge printers?
on a different note i find your reviews the easiest and most informative as you cover all the bases but don't have a format of video that becomes drull and long/boring. keep up the awesome work! happy to subscribe.
So at 12 minutes you mentioned another 3d printer, is that video up yet? Im new, have no experience and shopping around for 3d printers. I want to be able to do small and large pieces which is why im looking at large bed printers. It seems the s10 has alot of issues but when tweaked, looks like it could be great, but is there something newer/ better i should look into? Id greatly appreciate any feedback. I dont want to exceed spending $600 so thats my cap.
I have the Sidewinder X1 (revision 4) since a few weeks and have to say, that's the best 3D printer I have seen bellow 1000 Dollars.
The bed is AC powered and extremely fast, it levels very easy, it's fast and it prints almost all materials out of the box in high quality.
I just love that printer.
Nice! Now I want to get one!
I got the cr10s pro and God I wish i didn't buy soo many issue. I'm thinking to get the X1 seems really good. Should I buy it ?
@@xXxXENcoreXxXx well, we have revision 4 sidewinders and nothing but trouble...levers break, bed is not level, heating is bad, cables break etc...
3d Print Creator I just got version 4 and can’t get it to print such high quality at all, I’m having weird layer waves and such lol gonna wait for a profile to come out for it
This is what I’ve been leaning towards, but As it will be my first printer I’m nervous with the mixed reviews.. x1 v4 seems like the best bang for the buck but I’m not really all that confident in my ability to push through the “problems”
For the noobs trying to get started there is a lot of stuff to learn, several decisions to make. The questions “what printer should I buy? What design software should I use and what slicer?” Are all met with mixed reviews, differing opinions and advice from across the spectrum.. I love this channel for its clear fact based approach..
I paid $500 for my CR10s Pro from Walmart. Had no issues with the bed leveling or probe sensor. I did however upgrade the print surface to the WhamBam. In one month I have over 300 print hours with no problems printing flexible, PLA and ABS.
Wait, 3D printers... In WALMAAAAART?!
@@roxandtol it was on their website
@@gilbertpfaffsr1822 oh
that's great. I ordered mine yesterday for $459.00 online. It had consistent reviews with excellent quality and robust system...500w supply, dual z-axis, etc. Looking forward to it. It's my first 3D printer! Thanks for your feedback.
@@RozsaAmplificationLLC mine also it's first printer I don't know it's good deal or bad after going through the online reviews I am afraid now that did I make mistake because it has issue with bed leveling and extruder and feeder mechanism in longer term use.
Please let me know what is your observations on it.
Michael, you are a true asset to the community. I always look forward to your videos because I always seem to learn something new. Keep up the great work!
I picked up an Artillery3D X1 a few weeks ago and It was a great investment. I am already thinking about purchasing a second unit. It is super fast, quiet and has been producing great prints.
Still going good for ya?
The X1's direct drive should get more mention. We change filament types a lot and experiment with everything. Direct drive makes it easy to tune for the whole family.
Can easily add direct drive to a Tevo or the other CR-10 versions of machine for $30.
@@abarasabwehttam not really if you want it all metal mounted to make sure no vibrations. All the offered open source mounts i see are flimsy AF.
@@skaltura need to check out my kit, it is machined aluminum. Teaching Tech did a few videos using it and a full video installing it
@@abarasabwehttam I have one on my Ender 3 and love it! My only request would be black aluminum instead of the red!
@@Fenlandia we offer it in black from PrinterMods either on the webpage or Amazon.
I have a CR10s PRO. I have added the Creality version of the Ultrabase glass bed, the filament guide wheel, Updated the firmware, replaced the fan duct with the "near stock" version you recommended, and swapped the factory capacitive leveling sensor with an industrial version from a respected brand. I don't re-run the auto bed leveling every time, but I do reset the z home height before every print. Thanks to your videos and those of others that covered this printer I have been very satisfied with my prints and the quality of them.
Great review Michael. If I had not already bought the sidewinder from your first review I would probably still buy it after this comparison. Thanks for explaining 3D printing very well, as I’m only a few weeks into this new world your videos are gold.
@CfaCat Pure Gold!!!
Have had a V4 Sidewinder now for 3 weeks, hasn't stopped printing, and great quality prints.
Love my CR 10s Pro. I have updated it, Z anti backlash which gives no slip between the Z screws. Inductive sensor which now gives no temperature / humidity effects on height. Also added G29 to the start script and problems with first layer have disappeared (occasionally get a bad start). Yes it does take longer, but it really works. Also I use the TinyMachines3D code, which fixes a lot of Creality issues.
I did the same things its a beast now
Dear Michael, thank you very much for your great review. Artillery thanks for all supports. thanks again.
we talked on fb ill be making a video soon about the Artillery.
Decided to take the plunge and ordered an artillery. Can't wait to get it. Im glad to see something different come out and looks like its well thought out
Recieved my artillery a week ago- great printer!
Can't wait for the "as to be delivered yet" corexy printer review.
Artillery3D X1 has been amazing. Only had one issue and that was when the print didn't stick, I got a blob of PLA. After clean up and leveling, started working again. Mine came with the new ultrabase. Its good and prints stick to it 99% of the time. However, its got be kept clean and if past experience holds, ultrabase wears down after a year. I guess time will only tell, but I'd prefer if it came with glass which is easy to maintain and replace. So that is me being picky. Its been great so far. Haven't had to make a single change or fix so far.
I have the Tevo Tornado and love that machine. It was a work horse before I did upgrades to it, but it's a super beast now. Added an E3D V6 Volcano to it, along with a second Z screw. Then topped it off with an SKR 1.3 with TMC2208 drivers, and Ultrabase glass bed.
Jason Driscoll that’s a nice Tevo Tornado, sounds great! But nowadays the Artillery have all that by factory just without the e3d hotend... I think it has a titan style extruder and it is direct-drive.
The glass is ceramic that expand (thermal expansion) much less than regular, borosilicate and temperated glasses. I use a ceramic glass in my Ultimaker and it least 3 years until now without any demage and Z variarion.. it’s super flat! Earlier I switch the glasses many times.. like 3 by 3 months. My ceramic one is made by Schott, a German manufacture... don’t know about this and Tevo Flash that is also ceramic glass.
Cheers!
I bought a Sidewinder based on your review. As you say, the support isn't as good a Creality, but it seems to be improving over time. I've been very happy with the prints I get from it, after an initial period of dialing in my slicer profile. Since then, it has been a dependable workhorse.
Nice review! I think the comparisons should be done with the same filament though, as different colors make it hard to pick out differences, and also the filaments could handle completely differently.
Differences in colour are not enough of a distinct change in how the filament prints. Unless he legit got a wet roll. I get it would be easier to see the faults because of lighting with the colour but there is no distinct changes in fillament performance when colour is added enough to skew a print to make a defined solid evidence of colour making a spool faulty
I use the capacitive sensor that come stock on the CR10S-PRO.
When I first got the machine it kept ramming itself into the bed.
I found that lowering the sensor to just a few mill above the nozzle tip and adjusting the
sensor screw with trial and error gave me great reliable prints.
I print non-stop with confidence now.
I lost a couple bed surfaces in the proccess though ... had no clue what was wrong.
I have a CR-10S Pro and after upgrading the sensor to a high temperature rated inductive sensor my Z offset never changes. I also swapped out the hot end for a Micro Swiss all metal. The Wham Bam magnetic bed I have is a real winner, I print mainly PETG and I don’t even need to use a brim now.
I also designed and printed a couple of cable management upgrades that tidy the printer up.
In 2022 the Big Thunder is way past consideration but you can still buy them. One of my biggest purchasing mistakes. Severely warped aluminum bed that the auto-leveling can't overcome. Outdated board and LCD screen and interface. Don't waste your money. Mine shipped from China, they ignored me when I asked to return it after 10 days. It was supposedly in stock here in US.
Hi,
I think you forgot the Anet A8 plus. It is 300x300x350 build-volume and even a bit cheaper. For me it works with PETG and PLA, 24 Volt printer. Direct drive and it needs to be run a bit slower then the X1 with the smaller extruder but it works pretty well.
Actually, for me it has less problems then the Artillery X1 with the nice-looking but somehow disconnecting and fast overheating ribbon-cables.
The usable build-volume on the X1 is somewhat smaller for me (with PETG) since the corners and edges of the bed are not heated well enough and struggle to get more then 25 cms wide and long to stick on their surfaces (PETG/ ABS) and besides that the wide surface of 30 cms seems to be giving problems with the flatcables overtime.
So, for me the X1 is now very nice for fast prints that go high but not too wide and the A8 plus is more suitable for a big surface-area but less hight and less speed.
I think that if you stick to PLA the build-volume of the X1 is well too and then with the (new) surface you hardly need any heating.
Thanks for the video, good comparison. As I read through all the comments, I don't see comments about BIQU Thunder so far. I bought this printer in Dec 2018 and I probably USED it between 100-150 hours and it died hard in July. I really like this printer for its quality, ease of use and other features and it's very quiet besides the fan noise. The stock printbed is OK to use (I had to use raft for print to stick) but I upgraded with E3D flexible surface which is really good. When I tried to print again next day after a last successful print with auto-shutdown the night before, I had trouble setting PLA temperature (I use PLA most of the time) and shut machine down. I checked heatprobe and thermistor and they seemed to be OK. Just to make long story short. After I restored the machine to factory settings, the machine was dead silent, no fan noise, nothing even without nozzle connected. Contacted factory and they sent me a new board for further troubleshooting the problem. The machine is still down as of this writing.
I think your videos are great and I have learned a lot from them. I initially had lots of problems with my CR10S Pro. I used Luke Hatfield’s guide to fix some of them. I also had to shim bottom of the gantry to make the uprights perpendicular to the base. I added a bltouch and the hero me fan shroud and now it is a great printer. I still want to add a e3d volcano or a mosquito hot end so I can print with a bigger nozzle without having to slow way down.
With a Volcano you can print same speed with a nozzle with higher diameter, thats right. But even with the already upgraded fan shroud: You have to cool much more mass of hot filament to get good results at overhangs and bridging. A 0.8 mm Nozzle with 0.4 mm layerhight extrudes 8 times as much filament than a 0.4 mm nozzle with 0.2mm layerhight. So when using same speed in x and y, you need at least 8 times the air for same cooling results.
The Sidewinder X1 uses a Volcano with high speeds. I slowed it down to the speeds used by Prusa to get good results - because overhangs where bad due to the fact the fan could not keep up...
I have had a cr-10 (original) and an anycubic i3 mega for a couple of years now and wanted to upgrade to something new. My cr-10 has been an absolute beast of a machine with little issues even with upgrades like the fang part cooling fan and motor dampers it took the upgrades and only made things better while the i3 mega was great out of the box it broke down over time so I made it an abs printer. It then quit printing at temps 240c and above. I replaced everything I could do easily (hot end, stepper drivers, power supply, etc...) and it still had the issue so I retired it until recently I decided to order a new board for it then I got my US stimulus money and bought a sw x1 kinda of as an impulse buy forgetting about the board I ordered. The board showed up and I told a friend I would loan him the i3 mega as I needed space. I decided to upgrade the fans and bearings when I did this board swap and now it prints like a dream and I kinda regret telling my friend he could borrow it lol. Hopefully the x1 prints as well as the i3 mega does now.
The main reason I went with the x1 is the bed and the direct drive. I love printing "weird" materials like ABS, nylon, and flexible materials. The AC heated bed should make this super easy/fast and the direct drive means no more extruder spaghetti (hopefully). Just as an FYI you can print flexible with a bowden it just takes lots of time and a couple small upgrades.
ive owned the Artillery 3d x1 for about a week and a few days, been pushing out prints left and right already did two long prints one at 23 hours and another at 25 , then plenty of smaller prints. I think im end up getting another.
Zach of All Trades what do think of the printer?
EmeraldStikbot animations well now I own 3 of them if that says anything about them!
@@zachofalltrades1111 3 that's insane XD, i really like the sidewinder two :) and i think it has a really good value for the price.
I have six medium format FDM printers and just added an MSLA resin printer. I've been thinking of adding a large format FDM printer for production. I'd like linear rails, direct drive for flexible TPU and the ability to enclose and heat the build volume for ABS without heating the electronics. I'd pay $100 more for rugged and reliable electronics. Use a large heat sink on oversized power electronics rather than barely capable transistors or other power electronics and tiny aluminum foil heat sinks. There is a market for a $1000 light industrial printer that's reliable and maintainable for many years, positioned between hobby printers and a Stratasys.
Thank you for review, it is awesome that you do comparisons because I have been struggling with which one to purchase. Now that I have more to go on I am also going to get Artillery3D X1 it seems to be more suited to my needs and others, not only on this site but elsewhere, have purchased with good reviews almost all of which direct me back to your video. Thanks again!
Your next review sounds very intriguing... cant wait!
I have the SW X1 and have had some issues with it. Overall, I would definitely not recommend it for new users as the fixes require a bit of electronics knowledge but once you get it tuned, it works great!
What kind of problems did you have?
I already recently bought a Tevo Tornado that I haven't even set up yet, and just made a great deal on a newer barely used X1 with a BLTouch installed. Company bought it to print face shields for their company in the pandemic, only used it a few times, and are now selling it to me heh.
Got the Sidewinder X1 on sale for $400. Really great printer out of the box. The only thing I would mention is that the lever that allows you to change the filament will break if you overtighten the screw. However, you can get a replacement on Thingiverse.
Great review, wondering what an update would be like with the Artillery x2. The upgrades seem to address a lot of the issues you brought up. Debating between that and the CR-10S Pro
Did you end up buying one? I am thinking about buying the CR10s Pro V2 or the Sidewinder X2
Hi Michael, I've been using a basic CR-10 for the last couple of years. Usual 'upgrades' such as fan duct and Capricorn PTFE tube. It's been great and I print PLA, ABS, TPU, PETG and even Nylon-CF with it. Anyway, the time has come to get another. I like the Creality brand as parts are easy to source and they're relatively easy to work on. So what would your thought be if you had a choice of the CR-10S Pro and the CR-10 MAX. Price difference is not a concern, but just not sure that I'm going to maximise the use of the bigger build volume. It's very rare that my CR-10 is too small. Interested to hear your comments. I'm swaying towards the CR-10S Pro and will then be following your top tips if and when I find the Creality hidden issues :-). Thanks for your great and informative videos....Matt
I'm focused on sidewinder, but heard a lot about their quality control I hope they got better.
I got mine almost 2months back, it's been fantastic. Only 1 failed print in that time. It's built like a tank
It has inconsistent extrusion problem
The only issue I had with mine was I had to calibrate the extruder, however that should be done with all the printers. Every filament is different and alot of times you cant set it to 1 and expect perfect with all of them.
seetcas in my v4 its absolutely perfect
Tevo Tornado is a very under-rated printer I've had mine for 2 years absolutely love it and its my go to printer. It just keeps going no issues. Upgraded to BL Touch and a Polypropylene bed.
Hi! I'm late to the party on this video, but wondering if you've seen the updated V2 of the CR-10s Pro...and if so, whether you think it's worth pursuing for someone starting out in 3D printing, but needing both small scale (detailed) prints, and the ability to print larger scale items?
Good comparison, thx! Each manufacturer seems to continually 'update' their features, so never quite sure if the iteration you're ordering also reflects those changes. But sounds like Artillery/Evnovo at least tries to make sure that any printer currently 'in-stock' from vendors also comes ready-to-go with their latest mods and firmware.
I have the Artillery....fantastic machine. Non-removable glass bed sucks. My fix are big box mirror sheets (10 for $10) with tried and true hair spray, remove for fast cool down and slap another sheet on and print again. no cool down. This bed heats up incredibly fast and prints so accurate/fast for all filaments with the direct extruder. Highly recommended.
I purchased a CR10S Pro at launch and had many issues, mainly firmware and abl sensor/bed leveling issues. After replacing the stock sensor with an inductive one (8 bucks from amazon and plug and play) and using tiny machines B7 version firmware they made for the cr10s pro its been a fantastic printer. If Creality would lower the price to around the 500 dollar mark its a no brainer imo.
Great reviews as always. I have the latest X1 and absolutely love it.
I have a CR-10s and love it. Only drawback is the clunky electronics box. I have upgraded all of the fans to Noctua and upgraded the bed heater to 110 with. One questions I have been trying to find out is about 32-bit. I have heard the print quality with a 32-bit board is way better. It is able to run through the g-code much more fluidly. Do you agree with this or are the CR-10 Pro and X1 achieving similar surface finish and noise as the biqu? Do you see any advantage with the 32-bit board?
Thank you in advance!
32bit boards are known to give better prints when printing at high speeds, not sure it matters much at slower speeds. The physical design/build is a bigger factor with print quality.
I'm going for the sidewander, i love that 3D printer, it's solid, well build, And the ac heater it's hard to beat
Great video. Hard to keep bias out of comparison reviews but you nailed it.
Very comprehensive review! Thanks for all you do!
Thanks for putting out such good content. Your channel is the best I've found covering 3d printing.
When you do a comparison like this on the XL printer line, can you compare Formbot (Vivedino?) Raptor/T-Rex 3, Creality S-10 Max and Xinkebot Orca 2? Been kinda stuck picking between those 3 in particular because every review always says "It's fantastic but-" and the but gets very concerning.
Thanks again for another super-informative review/comparison! No fuzz, just facts - very enjoyable!
Love the Video, Destiny in the market for large format 3-D printer Sidewinder X2 And yes love to see the Mystery 3-D printer looking 🖖✌👌
Instead of CR-10s i bought the regular CR-10 but added a Capricorn tube and BL Touch. I don't think it needed them.
Before the upgrades it printed PLA flawlessly and i only needed to use a Glu Stick to help bed adhesion lifting.
The next goal is to get ABS just as flawless in some sort of enclosure (atm the box it comes with fits perfectly).
Yes, we definitely want to see a review of a printer with those specs. Good stuff!
OMG linear rail corexy 3d printer for under $600?!! I can't wait to see that!
voron maby but i think they are roughly 700, hmm
I agree, that sounds extremely interesting.
Creative3D Elf?
@@any1alive Voron is not sold premade nor a kit.
I think it's the sapphire s pro.
One of the best channels for 3d printing info. Thanks!!!
Hi Michael, how about even further outside the box with the Anycubic Predator, delta style printer. It's got a 370 mm round by 455 mm high build volume so I would consider it a large printer. It's a delta so it can print fast. It has an Ultrabase print surface and auto bed leveling. I'm not sure how I'd classify the extruder since it has a Titan style extruder, suspended above the print head with a short bowden tube connecting it. The price is similar to the CR-10S pro at $600. For me, the fast print speed potential and the ease of enclosing the print area make it an interesting option for printing high temperature materials, quickly.
Sidewinderx1 prints PETG well also on .8 nozzle. Biggest Problem for me so far is the parts cooling fan that i have a tendency to break somehow...two times in under a year. And the Bed has some warping issues under temperatures which needs to be taken into account when leveling.
In general though im quite content.
Hi Michael I have a CR 10s pro and have followed the tiny machines upgrade. The problem now is that i have lost the power failure fixture as well as the printing pause not going to the side of the bed but stopping on top of the print. Is there a upgrade that fixes this problem? If yes can you share it with me.By the way very good video as always. Regards and thank you for your time.
I agree with someone else's, that'd be awesome to do a Cartesian vs. Core x y comparison.
And yes I would love to see that 300 by 300 by 300 corexy.
The new prob is blue at the tip and is much more consistent the original one . It is also sensitive enough to run a no metal print surface such as glass or a polypropylene plate with and recalibration of the sensor. The tiny machines 3d firmware for the screen and main-board firmware also add more prob points for a higher quality mesh and a few more button functions.
I own a cr10s pro. I dont think they have an QC before shipping out as i had to fix up quiet a lot of things. It took a fair while to dial it in but the prints are awesome. If you want something out of the box that works i would seriously think of getting something else. If you are willing to tinker with it and fix up all the annoying things its worth it, esp if you get it on a huge discount like i did :)
Which printer do you use most often when you want to get stuff done?
What about the Creality CR-10S Pro v2?
Or the v3
for me the artillery is the best printer I ever owned ! (and I started with an Ultimaker original about 10 years ago)
Ready to print in about 20 minutes, very good print quality, fast heating bed and so Silent !
Maybe the nozzle need to be replaced to a better one because the stock one is not so good.
Personally I've been very content with my CR-10S. Added double geared extruder hobs, diagonal frame braces as on the later versions, tighter tolerance bowden tube and coupllings, and a 500W mains AC (through solid a solid state relay) silcone pad bed heater. 100+°C in under a minute. Next on the schedule is a new volcano hotend and an insulated and heated enclosure. The build volume has me more than covered for my type of projects, and seeing how this form factor seem to have stuck very well, I'm willing to put a bit of extra effort into the enclosure as it likely will fit without extensive modifications should I replace the printer later. So aiming for a chamber that can mintain and tolerate 150+°C for extended periods, and still not look misplaced in the living room corner.
would you add to this comparison the future Ender 5 Plus?, it would be nice compare corexy vs cartesian into the mix
Agreed. Would love to get more reviews of the Ender 5 Plus. I've got an Ender 3x and am thinking of getting another printer in a few months - would love to hear more thoughts on the E5P.
The Ender 5 pro is not a corexy! It is also a cartesian (but in the classic cube style moving bed in z and head in x and y). Corexy would be an other kinematik (2 xy-motors working together with long belts, while on the Ender 5 pro the motor for x mounted on the x-axis (so more moving mass).
Corexy in this size would be f.e. the Tronxy X5s in the 300*300 version.
The Sidewinder X1 was so hyped, but there are so many problemes now and so many people conplaining. What is your experience at the moment?
Mine still going strong. There have been several revisions, after mine they changed the ribbon cable connector to an inferior one.
Hey Michael, great roundup. Looking forward to you review of the new machine, sounds like it could be a nice printer.
I got my first Tevo Tornado when it was a new offering - absolute work horse! and really really fast against any creality machine as well
Looking forward to that upcoming review!
I just got the opportunity to get the V2 version of the Cr-10s pro for cheaper or about as cheap as the sidewinder goes. Is the v2 better than sidewinder x1? Would you recommend me to buy that one?
Nice video. What is the printer you mentioned at the end you were to review next? I'm eyeing a Sidewinder X1 right now.
Would love a comparison of printers in the 400x400 range.
For the XL you should include the Chiron I just love mine. Only thing I changed so far is I replaced the PTFE tube with a capricorn one as we print HIPS at 255 nozzle 105 bed 24/7 and it needs a cable holder as they could have done a better job with the wire running to the X gantry. Some have updated the fan but then we print mostly fan less so it has not been an issue
AC heater bed makes the printer less expensive to manufacture since they can use a smaller power supply, since the biggest power draw is the bed.
But then they have to build in an interface to control the heat safely to the bed, so extra parts needed. In the case of the X1 it is an extra box controlled with the mainboard for small temperature-changes. It also comes with a more expensive heatpad then the simple aluminium-based 24Volt beds.
looking at getting an Artillery X1 for my channel. the cr-10s is a great machine though
Love my x1, if I needed another printer, I would get a second one without hesitation
We just ordered one for our school computer lab to replace a dinky worn out Replicator Mini! The kids are gonna be stoked!
One disadvantage missing for the Sidewinder X1: Very slow heating and much offset (about 10°C) between temperature shown in display and realy measurable on the surface of the heatbed. I take some very disappointing pictures with my flir, also showing differences of more than 20°C between middle of the bed and there the leveling screws are.
On the other side, adding ABL with film probe is extremly easy and cheap. Only about $2+some cables or $5+some cables if you want also a PCB with LED.
Mine heats up quick and easy even with the whambam system on it. It's the "v4" as some call it. Temp display is on point as well for mine.
@@3dprintingbiker693 how did you measure the real temperature? On drucktipps3d.de/forum/topic/aenderungen-am-artillery-evnovo-sidewinder-x1/?part=3#postid-46198 you can see the flir-picture 10 minutes after the display showed 90°C. It is without magnetic spring steel system. The highest real temperature on the surface is 85°C
It can not be else: Glas is a bad heat conductor. So if the sensor in the silicone heater detects a temperature reached, the surface of the glas can not have reached it. Also due to the low heat transmission, thermal energy can not be transfered fast enough to compensate for the surrounding air cooling the surface.
The magnetic base of a wham bam system or simular is even less heat conductive. So the differences are even higher. Have not posted my pictures yet, as is a not finished series of tests, so no link.
Maybe Atillery corrected the offset between measured temperature and the surface temperature on stock printbed; but they could not have changed the physical behavior of glas.
Actually in their published profiles, they use anfirst layer temperature of 90°C for PLA (!) but taking a measurement, the printbed is only 55°C on start of the print. With a benshee, the temperature of the bed is about 60°C after finishing the first layer. So using an unrealistic first layer temperature is obviosly a "Work around" for starting fast. But a very bad one, if you have a big print the first layer bad temperature might realy go up to 85°C on PLA, so above glastransition temperature.
The right way to compensate slow heat transmission through glas would be a start gcode, heating up to 90°C, wait 4 minutes and than change bed temperature to 60°C (or 65°C if offset is not corrected). With magnetic base a bit longer and higher offset.
But of course this do not solve the uneven heat distribution of the bed as seen in the thermal picture.
used tape and heat gun, also we have a flir thermal camera where I work so I was able to use that to take a peak at it. My last bed was 24v on my other printer, and I was curious to see if it would heat up differently. The x1 was a lot faster. and better coverage across the whole bed. Keep in mind this is with a WhamBam on it also so that probably helped to disperse the heat across better although probably slowing it down a little bit from stock. Still was alot faster than the jgaurora a5s though.
I also am not using stock firmware so that could be a factor as well lol Just remembered that
@@3dprintingbiker693 I use not Wham Bam but the simular system from AliExpress Energetic 3d store. There seems no difference in quality but the system from Energetic only costs a third compared to Wham Bam and the PEI-Sheet is already applied. Also I have a PEI powder coated 300x300 spring steel from Thekkiinngg (Canada). Its my absolute favorite.
The magnetic base definitly not helps much.
The AC-Heater of course heats up faster than a 24VDC bed; the problem is not the heater, but the glas. So if you compare the Sidewinder with another printer using an Ultrabase, it heats up fast. But if you compare it with a printer with AC heater and aluminium bed and magnetic spring steel, its slow.
Also a aluminium bed spreads heat horizontal - aluminium is more heat conductive than steel and the bed is thicker than the spring steel. So it solves a bit of the problem of colder zones.
The new linear rail core XY sounds interesting. I hope it has a good extruder / hot end with proper part cooling. Thank you for the info.
Definitely looking forward to your next video. I am just about ready to buy a second printer so it will be interesting to see. Great video as always. Thank you!
Hi,
Yesterday I have purchased CR 10S Pro.
Because that was the only one of large printer in market I am from India.
I am going through the reviews I come to know that this printer has some leveling issue.
Please tell me that I can use this printer for longer term and longer print or if it has any problem with extruder and filament feeder for longer term printing.
Please reply me I am waiting...
Hi, I was wondering if you've got plans to further mod your sidewinder to a dual extrusion system. I think the x carriage is stable enough to have 2 direct drives and the possibility of a 2 to 1 switching nozzle, but got not clue regarding where to start with the electronics.
Hey TT great video as always, thanks
random question??? a few months ago I brought a CR-10s of ebay(Australia) for AUD$538.86 (USD$366.32) how does that compare to the AUD$792.93 (USD$539.99) pro edition???
I really like the ender 3 build series, and it got me thinking... if i was to spend the money i saved on the non pro model, on a SKR board, nice drivers and a raspberry pi how would it compare in the end with cost vs performance to the out of the box pro edition??? could a CR-10s be a good contender for a build series??
hello,
Thank you for your reviews, they are great.
About the new model you mentioned 300x300x300mm in the end of the video. Which one is ? Thank you in advance
My artillery x1 pro is freaking amazing. No more babysitting the first layer or writing about it. Just press print and walk away
I dont have any of these but i think a great addition to this video would be tronxy x5sa, i have had mine for a little over a week and it prints nicely, is 330x330x400, 24volts, 32bit board. Only realy draw back is the fan for the board is incredibly loud. It needs to change. Also the printer was on a flash sale on gearbest for $315 plus there was a coupon so i paid 300.99 usd for this massove core xy printer that i am still learning but am so far impressed with
Hi, thanks for your your videos, always helpful. Quick questions, would you say the Artillery print quality would benefit from TL smoothers, or does the machine need quieter fans or other upgrades ?
The clone TMC2130 stepper drivers in the Sidewinder have many more features and filtering than the usual inexpensive Chinese machines with 4988 Drivers , although they probably stay in SpreadCycle mode (vsStealth Chop). TL Smoothers would have zero effect downstream for print quality with the TMC 2130 Drivers (or clones) :)
Is it normal to have some printed fuzz? The black dinosaur has some on its spike at 6:36.
Great video. Which one of those are with full metal hotend?
Can't wait for your review of ender 5 plus. I think its gonna be my next printer.
Great video as usual 👍👍👍
I'm debating on which to buy I'm stuck on the cr-10 and the tornado but from this video I'm debating the sidewinder if there is a new one out that's a better first printer then these I just don't want to buy it now then find out something new has came out that's better. Any suggestions I'm looking to start printing I've took a few months to think about it. I want to one in the next month.
Hi Michael,
Thanks for a great video.
Your channel is helping me a lot to get into 3D printing as I’m now looking to purchase my first printer.
I know it’s difficult to give advice so instead of that I’d like to ask you a question, anyone else who reads this and want to answer, please, feel free.
If you have to choose between the Artillery sidewinder X1 v4 or the BIQU-B1, which one will you choose and why?
Thanks in advance
Raul
While I appreciate the objective review - there almost does not seem to be a lot of differentiation between them.
I would be curious to see a quality comparison on some test prints - or in your opinion which gives the best consistent print quality in pla?
(honestly, I consider the prices close enough...if that makes sense).
Finally, I would be curious how you think these measure up to say the ender 5 plus in terms of consistent print quality.
thank you for your review.
Im getting my first 3d printer and I have some questions about it... Which one do you recommend between cr-10(also cr 10s possible) or artillery x1 if we only talk about print quality? Thanks you already!
for price and quality, get Artillery x1. You will not regret it.
@@adelowooyediran9166 hey Bros .I have done alot of researches on 3d printers with alot of mixed reviews from Prusa mk3 , Anet A8, creality cr10 and cr10 v2, cr10s pro and cr10s pro V2,creality 3 n 5 enders ,monoprice maker select plus .now too overwhelming just can't make a decision.all in all I'm looking for the best quality with low price.Hint me up bro.Naija 4life!
Hey. Are you planning on doing a comparison on the entry level SLA printers? I bought a Ender 3 Pro after your research and seeing how easy it is to upgrade and I'm looking now for a SLA printer and have no idea what to get on a budget but with good results
Andrei Blagaila-Lazar Search for Longer Orange SLA printer. For me it’s the best for the minimum price
@@Xationch Thanks for the suggestion. I saw some reviews and some of the guys that got them had problems out of the box. That's the only thing that has me worried
Trying to stay close to $400. Sidewinder X1 is sounding perfect for my budget.
A flexibles comparison would have been great. Since one of them is a direct extruder and the other ones are bowden?
I am going to buy the sidewinder x1
No Chiron why?
Hi there so really keen to get into large format 3D printing but so many printers out there and so many versions hard to figure it all out is the CR-10s pro been reviewed here the V1 or 2 as I'm basically stuck deciding if to get the creality or artillery
that was a V1
But why your tevo tornado was not in? .. Where will it lie in here?
SIDEWINDER constantly goes down due to ribbon cable burn out. i keep a stock of replacement ribbon cables
Awesome video! The x1 is going to be my next printer. Between the three it seems to be the all around best. And after 4 Ender 3’s, I’m ready for a low fuss machine!!
Corexy?? YES PLEASE!!!
What Artillery SWX1 extruder and hot end upgrade do you recommend?