I liked that touch also! I use puppy pads under my oil pale when changing oil, antifreeze n transmission; now all I need is to incorporate wood chips and I'll have a majority of the pet Kingdom covered.
Thanks for the tip about the brake line. Pretty sure that was probably my whole problem in the first place. Probably didn't even need to replace the caliper but since I already had it lol. Thanks for your videos. I've fixed this van more than once with your help.
It should of course be noted that the 5th gen vans have 2 different brake sizes available starting with the mid-gen refresh, with the larger variant being roughly 1" larger and are dual piston front calipers instead of single. To be specific, small fronts are 302mm, large are 330mm, small rear are 305mm, large are 328mm. The larger brakes require the 17" wheels not the 16". The ones in the video are the smaller version, they have the bleeder and banjo bolt at about a 90° angle relative to each other, the large brake rear calipers have them almost parallel to each other, thus there are also 2 different sets of rear brake hoses with slightly different bends at the caliper banjo bolt end to compensate. Also I like how you ran enough new fluid through to get rid of the darkened old stuff, new being almost clear.
Yes, great tips very welcome! There are indeed two caliper types, so worth checking in advance which you have. The basic process is the same, but parts are different. Thanks for sharing! :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Great tutorial 👍🏻 You do a great job at instructing with details on how the system works to teach others. Thanks for taking the time to create your content (video/editing). New Subscriber & Liked.
Thank you, that is very much appreciated! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Thank you, much appreciated! We have done a complete rotor and pad replacement video for the Grand Caravan which may be of interest to you: th-cam.com/video/RTN2q0CTXVw/w-d-xo.html - Thanks again! 👍 --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by hitting the SUPER THANKS option below the video on TH-cam, or by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you SUBSCRIBE to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please LIKE our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Do you mean the separate dedicated video that's referenced within this video, and there a link is in the description too? This one: th-cam.com/video/2IGfpvTh1vM/w-d-xo.html --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
! ! The nubs on the inside brake pad must line up with the notches in the piston. I learned this the hard way ! ! You can rotate the top of the caliper piston to align the notches with the nubs.
what happened when you did not line up at first? I noticed this alignment luckily before I assembled parts back, and wonder what happens if not aligned
Just a suggestion the stainless shims for the pads if you want to grease under them to slow rust build-up fine but not on them as dirt abd dist and brake dust or other debris can stick to the grease or lube and cause it to clog or wedge the pads. Regular maintenance such as every 10 thousand miles or so just remove the pads and clean those shims and make sure slider pins still function well.
No problem, glad it helped :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Thank you :-) www.paypal.me/youwrench --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Thank you so much for your videos. They have been very helpful. I can't get over how many people here aren't paying attention to the links and references to the separate videos you've made. One concern, though - we twisted off one of the new banjo bolts (hollow bolt between the brake hose and the caliper), then looked into it more. You refer to 35 ft-lbs., but we've seen a few other references elsewhere of 18 ft.-lbs.
thank you for letting us know the bolt sizes.. It is a small step that goes a long way.. But if your replacing the rubber line You better bet your day that the brake line bolt doesnt twist inside the line and leak. You will be there for a few hours trying to fix it.
Glad you enjoyed our video :-) Yes, those brake line connectors can be a REAL pain as they get older and more corroded etc. They can lead to a nightmare!! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
We did the full rear rotors/discs and pads change in a separate video you can check it out here: th-cam.com/video/RTN2q0CTXVw/w-d-xo.html Hope it helps! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Thank you, that's much appreciated! :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Thank you! :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Best of luck! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Go just ahead of the drivers rear wheel. There is a splitter/evener that turns 1 cable into two. Make a softener from a few layers of a ceral box. Pull down on the cable to get slack and Vicegrip the softener around cable so it can't retract to hold slack in the cable. This gives lots of slack at both rear calipers. Use needlenose to squeeze tabs and can unhook rears in about 15 seconds and you are not fighting against a spring.
It's explained within the video that we have done a seperate video for attaching the parking brake cable. That video is here: th-cam.com/video/LNY1FnZwG2g/w-d-xo.html - hope that helps! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Thank you for detailed description. But I have a question. If I change two front calipers on both sides, should I bleed all four brake after? My van is Dodge Grand Caravan, 2013.
You can absolutely replace just one, provided that the other one is in good working order of course :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Personally, no I wouldn't. It's not normally needed. Hope that helps! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
great video! However, I didn't see how you attached the emergency brake cable. It was a major pain for me to do it and I thought I would see if you had a better way.
Thank you, yes! There is indeed a seperate video for that, as linked in the video description. Hope that helps! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
that banjo bolt torque setting correction should be overlaid on the video, it's easy to miss if you don't read the description near the bottom or far enough down the comments... that feeling when you're tightening and then it goes loose again and it's 9pm in the dark outside in light rain... not so great.
Great video! Very detailed and informative - you really did a nice job! Two questions: 1. If you're doing both driver & passenger side rear calipers, would you bleed the brake lines out 1 at a time, as you do each one? Or wait until you replaced both brake lines and then try to do them together? 2. Does the caliper bracket need to be replaced if you replace the caliper? Or do you just recommend it for some reason? I guess I see that the auto part stores sell the bracket with the caliper, so I suppose you'd just do both if you get them both.
Thank you! 1) Do them one at a time, and check out our video on how to bleed the brakes on the GC to see the correct order, and be sure to start with the correct one first as per the order in the brake bleed video. 2) No, you can use the old caliper bracket, but as most calipers come with them (i.e. no extra cost) it seems a waste to leave the old rusty one on. Hope that helps! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
As noted, most calipers will come with new brackets, and new guide pins. The main reason to replace the bracket is that a lot of times you'll have at least one significantly corroded or frozen guide pin.
I’m doing mine now after only going a year with ceramic pads and anti seize all up in my slide pins. Had a pin freeze up and the outer pad was down to the backing and grinding the rotor. My question is regarding the copper washers for the brake line to the caliper. My calipers came with 2 but my originals are pretty stuck on the hose side.
Yes, these rear calipers can be a real pain and really don't last as long as they should!! For the slide pins ideally try not to use anti sieze (copper grease) as it's not designed for this. You should really use a moly grease, something that is designed for CV Joints is ideal as it's designed for metal on metal lubrication and safe to use with rubber boots. This process is not shown in this video as this is replacing with a brand new caliper, but you can check out our brake rotor change video for more details on that if needed. With regards the copper washers, yes should be one each side of the banjo connector as shown in this video and they should not be stuck, especially as they are copper. Once the bolt is out the wahsers should be easy to remove. If not, you may have to get a bit more heavy handed with them. Worst case you could TRY and leave the one side on and test it a lot once fitted to check for leaks, just be prepared that if you do get a leak then you'll have to remove and refit again. Or do you mean they are stuck on the hose, rather than the caliper? If so, replace the hose. It's always a good idea to replace to hose, as covered in the video. Best of luck!! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Yes we did, It can be found here: th-cam.com/video/RTN2q0CTXVw/w-d-xo.html --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
It's actually a separate video, and there is a link for it in the video description :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
How did you get the piston to push against the pad? I have been bleeding and bleeding and bleeding. I can't get the piston to move towards the pads. Its a brand new caliper too
Hey there! That's odd. Did you make sure to close off the bleed valve on the caliper after bleeding? Once the system is closed again, pressing the brake pedal will move the piston. If the valve remains open it will just let more fluid out and the piston will never move. Ensure it's closed and gently pump the brake pedal a few time. Hope that helps! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
I have a question. I have replaced the rear caliper on my 2012 grand caravan and I am having leaks around the brakeline where it attaches to the caliper. I don't want to over tighten. If I have it tight enough does that mean the brakeline is going bad? I have cleaned it up
Hey there! Where the flexi hose attaches to the caliper, you should ensure to use a new washer if reusing the old hose on a new caliper, and also to ensure it is torqued up to the correct spec. It sounds like it's either not torqued up tight enough, or you have a bad washer? That would be what I'd be checking first anyway. Hope that helps! Best of luck! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
It's actually explained in the video, and there is a link to the dedicated video on reattaching the cable in the descriptive text on this video. Hope that helps :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Good video thank you… ….everyone going on about the parking brake…no problems there…than I broke my brake line bolt …it said 35 ft/lbs….you did that …….??????? now that I look online it’s 90-120 inch pounds for a banjo bolt… not to exceed 144inch pounds….that’s 12ft lbs…..35ft/lbs is 420 inch pounds …….you might want to edit that………I should have known…. Now canadian tire does not have one …Saturday evening …hope brake line crimped until Monday does not leak…. That’s how it goes for me …lol
Yes, the banjo bolt on this caliper is 35ft lbs, as per the Dodge workshop manual. Hope that helps! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
@@YouWrench I found this online...it talks about a concave bolt being stretched or broken.. It looks like the bolt I just got from the dealer after braking the other one... the dealer would be giving the weak ones out...the parts person would not give me any specs...... static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2017/RCMN-17V122-2758.pdf
why does my caliper has no spring?? Grand caravan 2015, both rear sides no spring, the caliper looks the same as this video as far as I can tell, but the spring is NOT there. Given both sides have no spring, it DOES look like no spring from day one, but it is so weird. Anyone else noticed the same?
The link is in the video description: 1) How to detatch your handbrake cable: th-cam.com/video/2IGfpvTh1vM/w-d-xo.html --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
The only part of this job I had trouble with is the part they didnt show and that is re-attaching the handbrake cable to the new caliper. My cable would not reach the new caliper no matter how I tried to pull and coax it to fit. Suggestions?
It's explained within the video that we have done a seperate video for attaching the parking brake cable and there is a link within the Video Description. That link is this one: th-cam.com/video/LNY1FnZwG2g/w-d-xo.html - hope that helps! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
No, not skipped over at all... 23:26 explains very clearly that there is a seperate video for it, and a link in the video description. Here is the link again: th-cam.com/video/LNY1FnZwG2g/w-d-xo.html - hope that helps! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
If you check the video description there is a link to the cable detachment video - as we mention in this video. Hope that helps! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by hitting the SUPER THANKS option below the video on TH-cam, or by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you SUBSCRIBE to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please LIKE our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
It's actually explained in the video, and there is a link to the dedicated video on reattaching the cable in the descriptive text on this video. Hope that helps :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Do you mean the separate dedicated video that's referenced within this video, and there a link is in the description too? This one: th-cam.com/video/2IGfpvTh1vM/w-d-xo.html --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
not a bad video BUT...putting a new caliper on old brake disc and pads is a crime !!!! - they are so cheap - just replace them too !!!! a set of 2 discs and 4 pads is literally 80 bucks online
Agreed! I think it's explained in the video, but this was only temporary whilst waiting for the new discs and pads to be delivered. That said, not everyone can afford to replace everything at the same time (remembering that the $80 you mentioned is on top of the price of the caliper), but if you can it's definitely good practice to put everything on nice and fresh with the new calipers, especially as these cars do indeed have generally pretty cheap parts :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
No, not really :-) Please see 23:26 and then th-cam.com/video/LNY1FnZwG2g/w-d-xo.html. Hope that helps :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Thank you for your kind comments and Super Thanks support! We are very much appreciative! Glad to hear that you enjoyed our video and that we helped you to get the job done! Thanks again!
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Thank you so much , this is the only channel I could find a break line removal.
super AWESOME... Would have like to have seen the emergency brake disconnect and reconnect... But overall the best I've seen on this
Video of disconnect and reconnect is in the description he said that in the video also
@@patrickpuma Yeah I was bouncing through, so I probably missed him saying that... Thanks for following up...
Whole comments section is full of people that dont pay attention.
Thank you for your videos very helpful.
Doing this task on a 2010 Town and Country tomorrow. I feel like I have a good grasp of the process. Thanks for the video.
Going to start adding my kitty litter in my pan in advance. Great unmentioned tip. Thanks
I liked that touch also! I use puppy pads under my oil pale when changing oil, antifreeze n transmission; now all I need is to incorporate wood chips and I'll have a majority of the pet Kingdom covered.
Thanks for the tip about the brake line. Pretty sure that was probably my whole problem in the first place. Probably didn't even need to replace the caliper but since I already had it lol. Thanks for your videos. I've fixed this van more than once with your help.
It should of course be noted that the 5th gen vans have 2 different brake sizes available starting with the mid-gen refresh, with the larger variant being roughly 1" larger and are dual piston front calipers instead of single. To be specific, small fronts are 302mm, large are 330mm, small rear are 305mm, large are 328mm. The larger brakes require the 17" wheels not the 16". The ones in the video are the smaller version, they have the bleeder and banjo bolt at about a 90° angle relative to each other, the large brake rear calipers have them almost parallel to each other, thus there are also 2 different sets of rear brake hoses with slightly different bends at the caliper banjo bolt end to compensate.
Also I like how you ran enough new fluid through to get rid of the darkened old stuff, new being almost clear.
Yes, great tips very welcome! There are indeed two caliper types, so worth checking in advance which you have. The basic process is the same, but parts are different. Thanks for sharing! :-)
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Amazing video, was able to do the job myself and saved loads of cash, thank you!!
Great tutorial 👍🏻 You do a great job at instructing with details on how the system works to teach others. Thanks for taking the time to create your content (video/editing). New Subscriber & Liked.
Thank you, that is very much appreciated!
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Awesome video. Too bad you couldn't replace the pad and rotors at the same time. I love all your videos.
Thank you, much appreciated! We have done a complete rotor and pad replacement video for the Grand Caravan which may be of interest to you: th-cam.com/video/RTN2q0CTXVw/w-d-xo.html - Thanks again! 👍
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You don't show the e-brake removal, which is all I wanted to see.
Do you mean the separate dedicated video that's referenced within this video, and there a link is in the description too? This one: th-cam.com/video/2IGfpvTh1vM/w-d-xo.html
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@@YouWrench For what it's worth I thought it was very clearly outlined, including the cable detachment.
Agreed!
youre right didnt show the cable to removed
@@macfady2181 Not only that, but how hard could it possibly be to figure it out? It’s super simple and you don’t need any specialty tools.
! ! The nubs on the inside brake pad must line up with the notches in the piston. I learned this the hard way ! ! You can rotate the top of the caliper piston to align the notches with the nubs.
what happened when you did not line up at first? I noticed this alignment luckily before I assembled parts back, and wonder what happens if not aligned
Just a suggestion the stainless shims for the pads if you want to grease under them to slow rust build-up fine but not on them as dirt abd dist and brake dust or other debris can stick to the grease or lube and cause it to clog or wedge the pads. Regular maintenance such as every 10 thousand miles or so just remove the pads and clean those shims and make sure slider pins still function well.
Thanks for taping the parking brake action.
No problem, glad it helped :-)
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Before pumping the brake pedal open the bleeder screw and gravity bleed the caliper.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH, FOR THAT LINK.
Thank you :-) www.paypal.me/youwrench
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Thanks
Great video thanks from US
Thank you so much for your videos. They have been very helpful. I can't get over how many people here aren't paying attention to the links and references to the separate videos you've made. One concern, though - we twisted off one of the new banjo bolts (hollow bolt between the brake hose and the caliper), then looked into it more. You refer to 35 ft-lbs., but we've seen a few other references elsewhere of 18 ft.-lbs.
try following manufacturer documentation.
Thank you. I'll be attempting this soon and this will surely help.
Perfect! You're welcome!
thank you for letting us know the bolt sizes.. It is a small step that goes a long way.. But if your replacing the rubber line You better bet your day that the brake line bolt doesnt twist inside the line and leak. You will be there for a few hours trying to fix it.
Glad you enjoyed our video :-) Yes, those brake line connectors can be a REAL pain as they get older and more corroded etc. They can lead to a nightmare!!
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why u are not changing the disk in sametime it look totaly done. but thank you for your video. its help.
We did the full rear rotors/discs and pads change in a separate video you can check it out here: th-cam.com/video/RTN2q0CTXVw/w-d-xo.html Hope it helps!
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Thanks!
You bet!
Big help. .Only good video on this topic
Thank you, that's much appreciated! :-)
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Is an Excellent Video.👍
Thank you! :-)
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Good video to watch. I am replacing my caliper soon. I hope it goes smoothly.
Best of luck!
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How do you rate the Cardone caliper? would you use it again?
Great video!
Go just ahead of the drivers rear wheel. There is a splitter/evener that turns 1 cable into two. Make a softener from a few layers of a ceral box. Pull down on the cable to get slack and Vicegrip the softener around cable so it can't retract to hold slack in the cable.
This gives lots of slack at both rear calipers. Use needlenose to squeeze tabs and can unhook rears in about 15 seconds and you are not fighting against a spring.
Great tip
Where is the spot where you reconnect the emergency brake cable to the new caliper? I've watched twice and can't find that procedure
It's explained within the video that we have done a seperate video for attaching the parking brake cable. That video is here: th-cam.com/video/LNY1FnZwG2g/w-d-xo.html - hope that helps!
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Thank you for detailed description. But I have a question. If I change two front calipers on both sides, should I bleed all four brake after? My van is Dodge Grand Caravan, 2013.
Is it recommended to replace both calipers or is it ok to replace just one of them?
You can absolutely replace just one, provided that the other one is in good working order of course :-)
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Would you dab a little anti seize on that brake line connection?
Personally, no I wouldn't. It's not normally needed. Hope that helps!
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great video! However, I didn't see how you attached the emergency brake cable. It was a major pain for me to do it and I thought I would see if you had a better way.
There is a separate video for that.
Thank you, yes! There is indeed a seperate video for that, as linked in the video description. Hope that helps!
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that banjo bolt torque setting correction should be overlaid on the video, it's easy to miss if you don't read the description near the bottom or far enough down the comments... that feeling when you're tightening and then it goes loose again and it's 9pm in the dark outside in light rain... not so great.
Great video! Very detailed and informative - you really did a nice job!
Two questions:
1. If you're doing both driver & passenger side rear calipers, would you bleed the brake lines out 1 at a time, as you do each one? Or wait until you replaced both brake lines and then try to do them together?
2. Does the caliper bracket need to be replaced if you replace the caliper? Or do you just recommend it for some reason? I guess I see that the auto part stores sell the bracket with the caliper, so I suppose you'd just do both if you get them both.
Thank you!
1) Do them one at a time, and check out our video on how to bleed the brakes on the GC to see the correct order, and be sure to start with the correct one first as per the order in the brake bleed video.
2) No, you can use the old caliper bracket, but as most calipers come with them (i.e. no extra cost) it seems a waste to leave the old rusty one on.
Hope that helps!
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As noted, most calipers will come with new brackets, and new guide pins. The main reason to replace the bracket is that a lot of times you'll have at least one significantly corroded or frozen guide pin.
I’m doing mine now after only going a year with ceramic pads and anti seize all up in my slide pins. Had a pin freeze up and the outer pad was down to the backing and grinding the rotor.
My question is regarding the copper washers for the brake line to the caliper. My calipers came with 2 but my originals are pretty stuck on the hose side.
Yes, these rear calipers can be a real pain and really don't last as long as they should!! For the slide pins ideally try not to use anti sieze (copper grease) as it's not designed for this. You should really use a moly grease, something that is designed for CV Joints is ideal as it's designed for metal on metal lubrication and safe to use with rubber boots. This process is not shown in this video as this is replacing with a brand new caliper, but you can check out our brake rotor change video for more details on that if needed.
With regards the copper washers, yes should be one each side of the banjo connector as shown in this video and they should not be stuck, especially as they are copper. Once the bolt is out the wahsers should be easy to remove. If not, you may have to get a bit more heavy handed with them. Worst case you could TRY and leave the one side on and test it a lot once fitted to check for leaks, just be prepared that if you do get a leak then you'll have to remove and refit again.
Or do you mean they are stuck on the hose, rather than the caliper? If so, replace the hose. It's always a good idea to replace to hose, as covered in the video.
Best of luck!!
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Did u ever make a video for replacing the pads, believe it was referenced in the video, but I can't find it
Yes we did, It can be found here: th-cam.com/video/RTN2q0CTXVw/w-d-xo.html
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Helo plis size a gasket brake hose to caliper
Great video except you didn’t show attaching emergency brake cable…
It's actually a separate video, and there is a link for it in the video description :-)
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How did you get the piston to push against the pad? I have been bleeding and bleeding and bleeding. I can't get the piston to move towards the pads. Its a brand new caliper too
Hey there! That's odd. Did you make sure to close off the bleed valve on the caliper after bleeding? Once the system is closed again, pressing the brake pedal will move the piston. If the valve remains open it will just let more fluid out and the piston will never move. Ensure it's closed and gently pump the brake pedal a few time. Hope that helps!
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I have a question. I have replaced the rear caliper on my 2012 grand caravan and I am having leaks around the brakeline where it attaches to the caliper. I don't want to over tighten. If I have it tight enough does that mean the brakeline is going bad? I have cleaned it up
Hey there! Where the flexi hose attaches to the caliper, you should ensure to use a new washer if reusing the old hose on a new caliper, and also to ensure it is torqued up to the correct spec. It sounds like it's either not torqued up tight enough, or you have a bad washer? That would be what I'd be checking first anyway. Hope that helps! Best of luck!
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You failed to show how to reconnect the hand brake cable
It's actually explained in the video, and there is a link to the dedicated video on reattaching the cable in the descriptive text on this video. Hope that helps :-)
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Good video thank you… ….everyone going on about the parking brake…no problems there…than I broke my brake line bolt …it said 35 ft/lbs….you did that …….???????
now that I look online it’s 90-120 inch pounds for a banjo bolt… not to exceed 144inch pounds….that’s 12ft lbs…..35ft/lbs is 420 inch pounds …….you might want to edit that………I should have known….
Now canadian tire does not have one …Saturday evening …hope brake line crimped until Monday does not leak….
That’s how it goes for me …lol
Yes, the banjo bolt on this caliper is 35ft lbs, as per the Dodge workshop manual. Hope that helps!
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@@YouWrench I found this online...it talks about a concave bolt being stretched or broken..
It looks like the bolt I just got from the dealer after braking the other one... the dealer would be giving the weak ones out...the parts person would not give me any specs......
static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2017/RCMN-17V122-2758.pdf
why does my caliper has no spring?? Grand caravan 2015, both rear sides no spring, the caliper looks the same as this video as far as I can tell, but the spring is NOT there. Given both sides have no spring, it DOES look like no spring from day one, but it is so weird. Anyone else noticed the same?
HOW DID YOU GET THE FUKN E BRAKE CABLE OFF AAAAAAAAAH
The link is in the video description:
1) How to detatch your handbrake cable:
th-cam.com/video/2IGfpvTh1vM/w-d-xo.html
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The only part of this job I had trouble with is the part they didnt show and that is re-attaching the handbrake cable to the new caliper. My cable would not reach the new caliper no matter how I tried to pull and coax it to fit. Suggestions?
He has a link precisely about that very part, Link no. 2 🙂
Beat me to the reply, thank you!!
Did I miss the part where you showed us how to remove the parking brake cable????
It's explained within the video that we have done a seperate video for attaching the parking brake cable and there is a link within the Video Description. That link is this one: th-cam.com/video/LNY1FnZwG2g/w-d-xo.html - hope that helps!
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Now, we’ll reattach the E-brake cable [skips over the process for the hardest part of the job] The E-brake cable is now reattached.
No, not skipped over at all... 23:26 explains very clearly that there is a seperate video for it, and a link in the video description. Here is the link again: th-cam.com/video/LNY1FnZwG2g/w-d-xo.html - hope that helps!
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I don’t understand why he didn’t show us how to put cable back or off of it
If you check the video description there is a link to the cable detachment video - as we mention in this video. Hope that helps!
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You skipped right over removing the hand brake line...
It's actually explained in the video, and there is a link to the dedicated video on reattaching the cable in the descriptive text on this video. Hope that helps :-)
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@@YouWrench Maybe I just missed it haha.
Your videos are great :)
He skip the important part installing and removing emergency brake cable
Do you mean the separate dedicated video that's referenced within this video, and there a link is in the description too? This one: th-cam.com/video/2IGfpvTh1vM/w-d-xo.html
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not a bad video BUT...putting a new caliper on old brake disc and pads is a crime !!!! - they are so cheap - just replace them too !!!! a set of 2 discs and 4 pads is literally 80 bucks online
Agreed! I think it's explained in the video, but this was only temporary whilst waiting for the new discs and pads to be delivered. That said, not everyone can afford to replace everything at the same time (remembering that the $80 you mentioned is on top of the price of the caliper), but if you can it's definitely good practice to put everything on nice and fresh with the new calipers, especially as these cars do indeed have generally pretty cheap parts :-)
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To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do:
1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench
2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel.
3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!)
4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us.
Thank you for your support!
The handbrake cable just magically popped back on by itself
No, not really :-) Please see 23:26 and then th-cam.com/video/LNY1FnZwG2g/w-d-xo.html. Hope that helps :-)
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To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do:
1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench
2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel.
3) Please Like our video's on TH-cam (by clicking Like!)
4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us.
Thank you for your support!
What's something that you pay but it doesnt cost you anything?
Attention
Thanks!
Great video and explanation! Thank you for the camera angles and descriptions. Saved me a lot of time and money!
Thank you for your kind comments and Super Thanks support! We are very much appreciative! Glad to hear that you enjoyed our video and that we helped you to get the job done! Thanks again!