Great instructions! I just completed a 2" leveling kit on my 2024 F-150 Lariat Powerboost. I marked the position of the LCA's prior to removing the bolts and got really close on the alignment. Additionally, the trouble that I heard of related to the hybrid high-voltage cable over the passenger side shock tower was a non-issue with a flex head, ratcheting 18mm wrench. There was enough flex in the bracket to allow for 2-3 clicks on the wrench...took a little while, but no problem. Headed to get an alignment tomorrow. Worked out great! Thanks again!
I just used the removal and reinstall portion of this video to install some Bilstein 6112s. The whole removal portion of this could be it's own video: "A better way to remove struts on an F-150"! Since the lower control arm bolts are out anyway, I also installed camber bolts to help with alignment afterwards. I am a beginner DIYer, so a couple of notes for other beginners: 1) It took 2: 30 for 1st side, but had the strut out in about 55 mins. My 15yo son was helping, and we we taking our time....including a "victory lap" once we got the strut out. I let him put most of it back together, so there was general learning going on. 2nd one took 1:45, and that included struggling with breaking the Lower control arm bolts loose (Tremor skid plate) AND giving my wheel well a good cleaning once we got the strut out. 2) For Tremor owners, and maybe Raptor too, you might save yourself some time/energy by just removing the front skid plate. It limits your range of motion of the breaker bar when removing the front lower control arm bolts. It's only 6 bolts -so would have been better for me to do at the beginning. 3) I starting by only jacking up 1 side of the truck. When I tired to remove the sway bar link, I think it was under too much pressure. We went ahead and put the other side up on jack stands, and it came out with ease. A pry bar might have worked too to relive some pressure, but didn't think of that (remember, beginner!). So, jack up both sides, or have a pry bar handy to ease the pressure.
@Noah Stage 3 I just did this kit on my co-workers son's truck easy to install... Best way to do it is undo the half shafts if 4x4... Loosen the upper control arm nuts just enough to push it up a little bit.. we did not swap the strut side-to-side.. we Put the lower strut bolts into the control arm.... He pushed down on the on the knuckle and control arm and I shove the strut into the pocket and the spacer kit studs lined up to where they need to be... And then just put everything back... It is better to do it on a lift ...used a floor jack to raise the knuckle back up to the upper arm to snug down in a non dropped position... I did not have to adjust camber or Caster.... Final measurements for the camber we're -.3 and Caster was 5.3 on the passenger side 5.1 on the driver side... Set the time toe .10 and the middle truck goes straight down the road driving smooth... Hope this was some helpful info... It took about 2 hours with us doing alignment.
Noah, we installed the 2.5 inch spacer kit on my 2023 F-150 Ford Tremor today, took two us 3 hours total. Your instruction video was a life saver. We had only two issues, realignment of the lower control arm / bolts and the sway-bar reattachment. With some McGivering we were able to get it all lined up and bolted back as when we took it apart. Other then that your instructions on doing it different then the instructions that came with them was great. The truck looks great and sets level, thanks for the tips.
Would it be possible to put the Lleveling kit on while you are in between the upper and lower control arms? Instead of pulling the strut all the way out?
Great video but I spoke with a Ford certified mechanic about the way you and many others are changing the angle of the bottom bolts. He said those bottom bushings are pressed in and by rotating them like you did will risk tearing the rubber bushings. All you have to do is move the passenger side strut to the driver’s side and vise versa and presto, you have the correct angle of the bolts. It’s much safer than risking tearing the bushing on the bottom of the strut. Or, you can compress the spring and rotate the top plate. But the way you are showing people to do this is risky. Hope this helps and I really wished you would change your “how to video” to tell people the safer and more correct way to add the spacers. By the way I did purchase your 2.3” spacers and I thing they are a great product.
Thanks for the heads up! This is a good point and I'm sure it helps increase the longevity of those lower bushings. We've got our hands full at the moment so remaking the whole video isn't possible right now, but I'm going to add a note about this in the description in the meantime.
@@stage3motorsports Are the spacers side specific? Will this make a difference if the struts are swapped like jhamilton said above? thanks for the video
Your absolutely right. My bottom bushings are smoked. I’ve only had this lift on for 5 months now. Every time the truck moves or makes a hard turn it makes a very disturbing sound.
Great video. Thanks a lot! I just finished installing Zone 2" lift on 2018 F150 XLT Off Road. All done as shown in the video. Took me 6 hours but I was taking my time.
This looks like a fairly simple way to install the leveling kit. Even though the lower control arm went back together without much difficulty would it be easier if you turned the bottom strut bolts inwards to create the same angle as before rotating strut 180 degrees from adding the spacer.
I'd imagine it would help, especially if you have a larger spacer and things aren't lining up. Fortunately, I didn't have too much trouble here, but I may give that a shot next time around.
I installed this kit on a brand new 2024 Tremor recently and here are my notes: -The front of the UCA contacts the frame where the load level bracket bolts to the UCA during down travel -The UCA Contacts the spring at full droop -I am getting a metal on metal clunking when going over small washboard type terrain at slower speed and this can be felt through the steering wheel. Maybe this is related to the increased angles imposed on the steering rack? I am not really happy with this set up and am considering going back to stock form or going to a 1.5” spacer lift. Any comments or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Definitely like that you guys posted an alternative video for doing the front lift. i preferred this way on the previous model f150's when dealing with the four wheel drive. but on the new 21+ i thought it was much easier to take apart the new four wheel drive design and the alignment doesn't get messed up as bad this way. seems intimidating but it's super easy, finished mine in 2 1/2 hrs.
It does seem like both methods work well on this F-150. After dealing with the new Bronco suspension this has become my go to for pretty much every spacer install haha
The old way is much easier and faster for me . I did one the way the video shows and the other traditional way and the alignment was much better the old way and for me faster
Nice! Good call on 18s and 35s. Smaller wheels and more sidewall is typically my preference as well, but I figured it was worth showing what could be done with a factory 20"
You don’t need to use a torque wrench. I’m 50 years old & have been wrenching on cars/trucks since I was 14; never once worried about torque specs & haven’t died yet. ☠️
Well at least for the bolts through the LCA, getting an alignment will result in their tech tightening those down for you once complete. They look like a 14mm so you can probably snug them down with a breaker bar using a good bit of force, without worrying about overdoing it. I’d suggest marking the bolts so you can get it approximately there so driving to the alignment shop isn’t too awful.
I cant decide between spacer, strut or full suspension. Even though I am only looking to level out and maybe fit bigger tires eventually. Though I was only looking at getting 285 or possibly 298.
Can this be done without a lift? Just a jack and jack stands? Worried I won't have the space at the bottom to pull the strut out. Could the strut be pulled out the same way (but opposite direction) it is reinstalled? I.e. via dropping down a little and then up.
You mentioned the spacer having an offset on them that is slightly shifted. With that being said how you installed the strut it throws it 180 deg out in your strut bottom bolts causing wear on them. Best way is to turn the top part 180 deg to install it back to original of strut where the bolts are by compressing springs. But doing so it’s going to throw off the offset on the spacer will that have any affect on alignment?
Since Ford doesn't provide adjustable bolts for the LCA, you'll have to add them in when you install the lift. We talk about that process more in our Fox 2.0 install on this truck where we added SPC's camber/caster bolts. Here's a link to that video. th-cam.com/video/yD2WNzON79g/w-d-xo.html
I just installed this kit. Wasn't bad at all for never doing one before. this method for me was easy. Did any one get any scrubbing of the tires after the install? I went with 295/60R20 Nitto Ridge grapplers and 20" fuel off road wheels with a -18MM offset. They just barley scrub on the plastic in the wheel well. I'm hoping that the alignment I have setup for tomorrow morning fixes the issue. If not looks like I'll be trimming some plastic.... and maybe a C-hair off of the crash bar. We'll see. I'll report back lol
The verdict is in... This size tire (295/60R20) with a wheel that has -18mm offset, you will need to trim the front splash guard, maybe the bumper just slightly, and the about a 1/4" off of the bottom part of your crash bar. That or put a bigger lift kit on the truck. I should have looked into the offset a little bit more, but then I wouldn't have gotten the look I wanted.
@@josephrouse1443 I think you would have been good with a 0 Offset. I see a lot of that tire size on Real Deal Neal at Wild Willies Customs channel with a very little trimming.
Interesting. A question. Living in rougher road, mountainy ski country I'm thinking I'd prefer the thicker rubber of an 18 instead of a 20 wheel. Could you do something like this, but put on an 18 wheel? And could a 35 instead of a 34 wheel be used? I ask this last because I'd really like to add a small amount of poke. 34's are not bad at all, just wondering. Maybe I could go to a 3" or 3 1/2" lift/level to get to the 35's? Thanks.
Thanks for the video. I've added a 2" leveling block to my 2021 F150 4wd. I notice more people flashing high beams at me at night. How can I adjust my headlights?
We had to aim ours down after installing this too. If you pop the hood you'll see a small round opening at the top of each headlight housing where you can drop a phillips head screwdriver in and you'll be able to rotate a small plastic screw that adjusts them up and down.
Do you guys get any scuffing if the UCA on the coils during full droop ? My 2022 actually does this so I had to get new colors from arms. It’s odd I’ve heard some get the scuffing and some don’t
Ok, I did the install. Not convinced this is a better way. I still had to unbolt the tie rod steering link. Plan on taking about 3-4 hours for both sides. Getting the lower control arm back into the frame mounts was not fun when you are doing this on jack stands. Also I did not tighten the control arm bolts tight enough because someone did not give me the torque spec. Thankfully it was a short drive to the alignment shop.
I had a Auto Spring 2” on my bench and decided I wanted a tad more lift in front so I purchased the Stage 3 2.3” kit (made for them by Auto Spring) to my surprise they are exactly the same size. I even put a caliper on it. Same size ! 😔
I used your method to install some other brand spacers for my 23’ XLT but after installing these and performing an alignment (which came out excellent) I’m having a slight vibration on the gas pedal which worsens more on rough roads. Has anybody else experience this? I’m hating my truck right now. After watching these video I’m analyzing to switch to these S3M but I’m overthinking it because I don’t know if I’m going to be getting the same results. Are these S3M engineered to fix that issue? Or do I need an upper control arm to fix that? Please I would appreciate some feedback. Thank you
@@fabianglr Slightly stiffer. Not bad by any means. I would say if you want to level your truck cheaply pucks are good option. This one keeps about 1/2 to 1 inch of rake in the front. If I had unlimited funds I would go with the Fox 2'inch complete shock towers.
Does this kit still give some rake? I have a 21 with sport pkg, non fx4, non max tow. Asking because I'd still like to maintain a bit of rake. Thank you!
I went step by step in this video with my fx4 2023 f150, after installation, when I turn right, I hear a clunk noise while Turing on the front right of the vehicle. Now my concern is, my front bolt and rear bolt that holds bolts to the lower control arm are both evenly lined up. Could that be the problem??
I'm not a mechanic, so bare with me. I have a 2021 F150 XLT 4x4 with 275/65/18 tires, thinking of going to 285/70/18, will this kit work with 18" rims?
They don’t make mention of recommending the cam plate/bolt kit but when I called them, they said they installed them on 99% of the leveling kit installs they did.
Ok, so heres my input - I installed this kit into my 22 F150 Tremor a few days ago - took about 2.5 hours for both sides in my home garage - video makes it look so much easier ..lol.. power of editing - wasn't that bad of an install.. usual pain in the ass kind of things like getting the new strut lined up fighting the UCA and LCA for clearance while lining up the holes ---BUT -- I would not do this method If doing again - Why , because you mess with the LCA which is what's used to keep your Camber and Caster in check... Took my truck by the Ford Dealership to let them do the alignment and was told to do it right I would need a Camber adjustment kit ( need two Moog kits - $60) but they could get the Toe in spec ( Toe was at 5.6) - so I get the Truck back and Toe is not in spec (0.57, 0.54)and they state that's the best they could do without the kit ( So at this time , Toe, camber and caster are out of spec) ... so I bought the kit and I will need to install myself and I could bring back and they would do again for 50% off the original $109 price.....after researching online - I found out basically they didn't want to put the extra time in - to get the alignment perfect and would take 2 techs to do the alignment as the camber kit makes it easy and a one person job. So after reading further I see hundreds of replies where others had an alignment and the toe was just barely out of spec and was then corrected easily with an alignment.... so by working from the top down, your not messing with any of the alignment nuts --- so doing it this way cost me $60 for the camber kit and another $55 for the 2nd alignment ($115) ... just throwing some extra info out there -
You can use a sharpie marker and mark your alignment positions prior to removing your LCA. This will help you reinstall to the same alignment position prior to installation. You will still need to have truck realigned but it will be much closer to factory.
@@chaserichter2743 bought through amazon -- Moog K100070 Caster/Camber - you will need 2 kits one for each side, easy to install but afterwards you will need an alignment - makes it easy for the installer to dial in the correct alignment plus keeps the alignment "more" locked in, hope this helps
@Stage 3 Motorsports if you dont loosen the control arm bolts and just pray down on the control arm to install the leveling kit would the bushings in the control arms be binded up with the 2 inch level putting more strain on the bushings causing them to be twisted more than from the factory height
I haven't personally installed this on a 2wd truck so I'm not 100% sure what fitment would work best, but we've had customers install this spacer on 2wd trucks and still manage to run a 295/60R20 without problems. An equivalent 33" or 34" tire for the factory 18" wheels should still work too.
Do you think I can add this level kit to my 2022 2WD and get no rub with my 275/65r20s with +12 offset? Not looking to have to do anything to the truck
Call me crazy, but I hate the idea of the cv joint and UCA knuckle bent that sharply just hanging there. I know nothing is likely to happen to the boots, but it makes me paranoid they're going to tear and start leaking. also, a good rolling head pry bar is great for lining up the LCA bolts and using it to angle the LCA if the hole doesn't line up correctly, like with one side slightly lower than the other.
This video is doing a disservice to those who choose to install the kit themselves. You don't mention that the LCA holes are slotted. It is not possible to get them back to the factory position by hand due to the compressed force. I followed this video and had to do a driveway alignment because the LCA's were kicked out so bad and toe was undriveable. You should say in the video that lower control arm cams are required with this method. For the average person I recommend going the normal route through the top control arm.
I just did this on a four-by-four as well I undid the half shafts pulled the upper arm from the knuckle bolted the spacers on to the struts put the bolts in the lower arms what the help of my coworker we push down on the arm and the knuckle and shove the strut assembly back into the pocket and then Tuesday for Jack to raise the lower arm and knuckle into place after sliding the axle back through
@@rjdavis947 This had me perplexed also until I got the kit. It's literally idiot proof. The three threaded mounting bolts are not an equally spaced apart triangle. When you mount the spacer you have to spin the strut 180 degrees. It will not mount any other way.
Stage 3 Motorsports - i was told by a 4 wheel drive shop these leveling kits are not ideal because it actually changes the geometry of how everything is supposed to work. An actual lift kit doesn't and make its all correct. Hear the same thing from a Ford Dealer on TH-cam that does both the spacers and left kits.
This was a bad idea and messed the alignment up way worse than doing this the “traditional” way. I would not recommend dropping the lower control arm as they did in this video.
Im a professional mechanic and i hate hate hate doing any kind of alteration that doesnt fix anything. One just came in for a lift kit and this is an insult to me. A waste of my time and nothing learned. Thanks for the video, i hope i never do this crap again
I think it was just enough of a difference to where the studs on the bottom of the strut couldn’t get lined up enough with the lower control arm holes when putting everything back together. I spent like 6 hours trying to get them to go back thru the holes lol. I ended up putting everything back to stock and having 4 Wheel Parts do the install because I was defeated by the whole thing
Great instructions! I just completed a 2" leveling kit on my 2024 F-150 Lariat Powerboost. I marked the position of the LCA's prior to removing the bolts and got really close on the alignment. Additionally, the trouble that I heard of related to the hybrid high-voltage cable over the passenger side shock tower was a non-issue with a flex head, ratcheting 18mm wrench. There was enough flex in the bracket to allow for 2-3 clicks on the wrench...took a little while, but no problem. Headed to get an alignment tomorrow. Worked out great! Thanks again!
I just used the removal and reinstall portion of this video to install some Bilstein 6112s. The whole removal portion of this could be it's own video: "A better way to remove struts on an F-150"! Since the lower control arm bolts are out anyway, I also installed camber bolts to help with alignment afterwards. I am a beginner DIYer, so a couple of notes for other beginners:
1) It took 2: 30 for 1st side, but had the strut out in about 55 mins. My 15yo son was helping, and we we taking our time....including a "victory lap" once we got the strut out. I let him put most of it back together, so there was general learning going on. 2nd one took 1:45, and that included struggling with breaking the Lower control arm bolts loose (Tremor skid plate) AND giving my wheel well a good cleaning once we got the strut out.
2) For Tremor owners, and maybe Raptor too, you might save yourself some time/energy by just removing the front skid plate. It limits your range of motion of the breaker bar when removing the front lower control arm bolts. It's only 6 bolts -so would have been better for me to do at the beginning.
3) I starting by only jacking up 1 side of the truck. When I tired to remove the sway bar link, I think it was under too much pressure. We went ahead and put the other side up on jack stands, and it came out with ease. A pry bar might have worked too to relive some pressure, but didn't think of that (remember, beginner!). So, jack up both sides, or have a pry bar handy to ease the pressure.
@Noah Stage 3 I just did this kit on my co-workers son's truck easy to install... Best way to do it is undo the half shafts if 4x4... Loosen the upper control arm nuts just enough to push it up a little bit.. we did not swap the strut side-to-side.. we
Put the lower strut bolts into the control arm.... He pushed down on the on the knuckle and control arm and I shove the strut into the pocket and the spacer kit studs lined up to where they need to be... And then just put everything back... It is better to do it on a lift ...used a floor jack to raise the knuckle back up to the upper arm to snug down in a non dropped position... I did not have to adjust camber or Caster.... Final measurements for the camber we're -.3 and Caster was 5.3 on the passenger side 5.1 on the driver side... Set the time toe .10 and the middle truck goes straight down the road driving smooth... Hope this was some helpful info... It took about 2 hours with us doing alignment.
Great video. Wish u would have given the torque specs for the target bolts and nuts here.
Noah, we installed the 2.5 inch spacer kit on my 2023 F-150 Ford Tremor today, took two us 3 hours total. Your instruction video was a life saver. We had only two issues, realignment of the lower control arm / bolts and the sway-bar reattachment. With some McGivering we were able to get it all lined up and bolted back as when we took it apart. Other then that your instructions on doing it different then the instructions that came with them was great. The truck looks great and sets level, thanks for the tips.
Glad it helped!
Had it aligned today, tech said the only thing that needed to be adjusted was the Toe-In, as it was out just a bit. All is good.
This is very well done and saves a lot of steps. Thanks!
Great step by step and good camera angles. Thank you!
Can you post up all the Torque specs? I just received this from you and need to know.... Thanks
Would it be possible to put the Lleveling kit on while you are in between the upper and lower control arms? Instead of pulling the strut all the way out?
Great video but I spoke with a Ford certified mechanic about the way you and many others are changing the angle of the bottom bolts. He said those bottom bushings are pressed in and by rotating them like you did will risk tearing the rubber bushings. All you have to do is move the passenger side strut to the driver’s side and vise versa and presto, you have the correct angle of the bolts. It’s much safer than risking tearing the bushing on the bottom of the strut. Or, you can compress the spring and rotate the top plate. But the way you are showing people to do this is risky. Hope this helps and I really wished you would change your “how to video” to tell people the safer and more correct way to add the spacers. By the way I did purchase your 2.3” spacers and I thing they are a great product.
Thanks for the heads up! This is a good point and I'm sure it helps increase the longevity of those lower bushings. We've got our hands full at the moment so remaking the whole video isn't possible right now, but I'm going to add a note about this in the description in the meantime.
@@stage3motorsports Are the spacers side specific? Will this make a difference if the struts are swapped like jhamilton said above? thanks for the video
Will swapping the struts from one side to the other create any other geometry or alignment issues?
Not that I’m aware of but compressing the struts and turning the tops is the absolute best and safest way to do it.
Your absolutely right. My bottom bushings are smoked. I’ve only had this lift on for 5 months now. Every time the truck moves or makes a hard turn it makes a very disturbing sound.
Great video. Thanks a lot! I just finished installing Zone 2" lift on 2018 F150 XLT Off Road. All done as shown in the video. Took me 6 hours but I was taking my time.
Used your method to install a 2" front lift on a 2023 F-150 Worked liked a charm ! ! ! ! ! !
wouldnt you do finished torque with the weight of the vehicle on the groud tho?
Great video, showed 2 friends, and it helped all three of us!! Tks
Awesome! Thank you!
This looks like a fairly simple way to install the leveling kit.
Even though the lower control arm went back together without much difficulty would it be easier if you turned the bottom strut bolts inwards to create the same angle as before rotating strut 180 degrees from adding the spacer.
I'd imagine it would help, especially if you have a larger spacer and things aren't lining up. Fortunately, I didn't have too much trouble here, but I may give that a shot next time around.
@@NoahStage3 thanks for the reply. This way definitely looks like the easiest way to do it for sure. Thanks for the video!
I installed this kit on a brand new 2024 Tremor recently and here are my notes:
-The front of the UCA contacts the frame where the load level bracket bolts to the UCA during down travel
-The UCA Contacts the spring at full droop
-I am getting a metal on metal clunking when going over small washboard type terrain at slower speed and this can be felt through the steering wheel. Maybe this is related to the increased angles imposed on the steering rack?
I am not really happy with this set up and am considering going back to stock form or going to a 1.5” spacer lift. Any comments or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Definitely like that you guys posted an alternative video for doing the front lift. i preferred this way on the previous model f150's when dealing with the four wheel drive. but on the new 21+ i thought it was much easier to take apart the new four wheel drive design and the alignment doesn't get messed up as bad this way. seems intimidating but it's super easy, finished mine in 2 1/2 hrs.
It does seem like both methods work well on this F-150. After dealing with the new Bronco suspension this has become my go to for pretty much every spacer install haha
The old way is much easier and faster for me . I did one the way the video shows and the other traditional way and the alignment was much better the old way and for me faster
“Now with that being said” I’ll go ahead and install my leveling kit.
Did you have to rotate the strute 180 degrees? Or does the strut only go in one way
Does anybody know if this method would work on 2018 4WD?
Cut my crash bars, as I went with 35s on a 2.5” level & downsized to 18” wheels for more tire sidewall. Looks good! 👍🏻🇺🇸
Nice! Good call on 18s and 35s. Smaller wheels and more sidewall is typically my preference as well, but I figured it was worth showing what could be done with a factory 20"
I thought you could fit 35s on a 2.5 with out cutting
@@valentinibanez6175he probably had an aggressive offset, or a tire with a width of 12.5 inches
If I have leafs and springs on the front end, would it be better to buy new ones to make up for this 2.5” lift?
Would have been nice to hear how many foot-pounds the torque wrench should be set to.
Have a 22 same color and everything man I can’t wait to do this
Thank you for the video. I wish you had included the torque specs. Especially on the frame bolts for the lower control arm?
You don’t need to use a torque wrench. I’m 50 years old & have been wrenching on cars/trucks since I was 14; never once worried about torque specs & haven’t died yet. ☠️
Well at least for the bolts through the LCA, getting an alignment will result in their tech tightening those down for you once complete. They look like a 14mm so you can probably snug them down with a breaker bar using a good bit of force, without worrying about overdoing it. I’d suggest marking the bolts so you can get it approximately there so driving to the alignment shop isn’t too awful.
@@krasnaludek298 No, you miss understand. I'm a big guy and I never think anything is tight enough. I have broken many things. :-(
@@saintsandsin3885 that's sad, and ignorant on your part...
I cant decide between spacer, strut or full suspension. Even though I am only looking to level out and maybe fit bigger tires eventually. Though I was only looking at getting 285 or possibly 298.
Can this be done without a lift? Just a jack and jack stands? Worried I won't have the space at the bottom to pull the strut out. Could the strut be pulled out the same way (but opposite direction) it is reinstalled? I.e. via dropping down a little and then up.
You mentioned the spacer having an offset on them that is slightly shifted. With that being said how you installed the strut it throws it 180 deg out in your strut bottom bolts causing wear on them. Best way is to turn the top part 180 deg to install it back to original of strut where the bolts are by compressing springs. But doing so it’s going to throw off the offset on the spacer will that have any affect on alignment?
Damn that method looks so simple and streamlined
Did you not have to turn the top hat of the strut 180 degrees before reinstalling?
When lifting these trucks from the front, how are you supposed to align it if it does not have alignment essentrics bolts.?
Since Ford doesn't provide adjustable bolts for the LCA, you'll have to add them in when you install the lift. We talk about that process more in our Fox 2.0 install on this truck where we added SPC's camber/caster bolts. Here's a link to that video. th-cam.com/video/yD2WNzON79g/w-d-xo.html
@@stage3motorsports Is this 100% mandatory?
Definitely looks easier that it is but not bad. If your doing it in yer garage on the floor it definitely helps to have somebody help
Torque specs? Who needs em! Gud-n-tight is enough.
I just installed this kit. Wasn't bad at all for never doing one before. this method for me was easy. Did any one get any scrubbing of the tires after the install? I went with 295/60R20 Nitto Ridge grapplers and 20" fuel off road wheels with a -18MM offset. They just barley scrub on the plastic in the wheel well. I'm hoping that the alignment I have setup for tomorrow morning fixes the issue. If not looks like I'll be trimming some plastic.... and maybe a C-hair off of the crash bar. We'll see. I'll report back lol
The verdict is in... This size tire (295/60R20) with a wheel that has -18mm offset, you will need to trim the front splash guard, maybe the bumper just slightly, and the about a 1/4" off of the bottom part of your crash bar. That or put a bigger lift kit on the truck. I should have looked into the offset a little bit more, but then I wouldn't have gotten the look I wanted.
@@josephrouse1443 I think you would have been good with a 0 Offset. I see a lot of that tire size on
Real Deal Neal at Wild Willies Customs channel with a very little trimming.
Thank you for the detailed video that should save everyone time! What is the exact measurement of the spacer thickness?
How long does it take to install both sides? Ford dealership is telling me 5 hours.
How is the ride afterwards with this leveling kit?
Interesting. A question. Living in rougher road, mountainy ski country I'm thinking I'd prefer the thicker rubber of an 18 instead of a 20 wheel. Could you do something like this, but put on an 18 wheel? And could a 35 instead of a 34 wheel be used? I ask this last because I'd really like to add a small amount of poke. 34's are not bad at all, just wondering. Maybe I could go to a 3" or 3 1/2" lift/level to get to the 35's? Thanks.
Solid method!
What about the angle of the cv joint?????????
do I need a torsion bar kit with this install?
Thanks for the video. I've added a 2" leveling block to my 2021 F150 4wd. I notice more people flashing high beams at me at night. How can I adjust my headlights?
We had to aim ours down after installing this too. If you pop the hood you'll see a small round opening at the top of each headlight housing where you can drop a phillips head screwdriver in and you'll be able to rotate a small plastic screw that adjusts them up and down.
@@NoahStage3 Ha! found it today about 30 mins before your reply. Thanks tho!
Just toss them some vagisil
Did you guys adjust the lights after?
2024? Your website doesn’t mention.
Do you guys get any scuffing if the UCA on the coils during full droop ? My 2022 actually does this so I had to get new colors from arms. It’s odd I’ve heard some get the scuffing and some don’t
Ok, I did the install. Not convinced this is a better way. I still had to unbolt the tie rod steering link. Plan on taking about 3-4 hours for both sides. Getting the lower control arm back into the frame mounts was not fun when you are doing this on jack stands. Also I did not tighten the control arm bolts tight enough because someone did not give me the torque spec. Thankfully it was a short drive to the alignment shop.
You guys should do one on a Powerboost F150
I had a Auto Spring 2” on my bench and decided I wanted a tad more lift in front so I purchased the Stage 3 2.3” kit (made for them by Auto Spring) to my surprise they are exactly the same size. I even put a caliper on it. Same size ! 😔
Great video. But why couldn’t you just say the torque spec in the video man. It wasn’t that many bolts .
I used your method to install some other brand spacers for my 23’ XLT but after installing these and performing an alignment (which came out excellent) I’m having a slight vibration on the gas pedal which worsens more on rough roads. Has anybody else experience this? I’m hating my truck right now.
After watching these video I’m analyzing to switch to these S3M but I’m overthinking it because I don’t know if I’m going to be getting the same results. Are these S3M engineered to fix that issue? Or do I need an upper control arm to fix that? Please I would appreciate some feedback.
Thank you
Hi.. Can I install 295 60 20 on 2wd 2022 f150 STX with 2.5 leveling kit installed. Thanks
Did you do it? I have the same truck
Can you put 33 12.5 20’s on factory 20’s with this lift? With no spacers?
2021 can clear 33x12.5 on factory wheel wtih no spacer without a lift lol I have 34.1 inch tire but only 11 inch wide with 0 rubbing
Need a demo for a 4runner with the Bp-51 kit that has drop in bolts at the top. Any suggestions?
Can a spacer of an inch be installed on my level lift as well?
Great vid! But out of curiosity, by any chance do you know if you have to install a caster/camber kit for the alignment?
I did not, the shop didn't have any trouble with the alignment.
@@saintsandsin3885 how's the ride quality? Stiff?
@@fabianglr Slightly stiffer. Not bad by any means. I would say if you want to level your truck cheaply pucks are good option. This one keeps about 1/2 to 1 inch of rake in the front. If I had unlimited funds I would go with the Fox 2'inch complete shock towers.
Anyone know of this fits the 2024 yet?
how much can you drive before an alignment. I don't want to make an appointment to have it aligned until the level kit is actually installed
I don’t think you can align these new trucks. They do not have essentric alignment bolts.
Great video thanks
Great video , you do nice work . I love it . I have a new 3.5 and I am considering this kit.
Does this kit still give some rake? I have a 21 with sport pkg, non fx4, non max tow. Asking because I'd still like to maintain a bit of rake. Thank you!
Tiny bit of rake, barely noticeable.
Something I almost NEVER see in these lift install video "final steps" is to adjust the headlight aim.
Great vid and info. So tell me why your lit is better than others ? I’m in the market for a kit for my 22 tremor f150.
it is literally a steel plate welded to another steel plate, they're all the same.
I went step by step in this video with my fx4 2023 f150, after installation, when I turn right, I hear a clunk noise while Turing on the front right of the vehicle. Now my concern is, my front bolt and rear bolt that holds bolts to the lower control arm are both evenly lined up. Could that be the problem??
I'm not a mechanic, so bare with me. I have a 2021 F150 XLT 4x4 with 275/65/18 tires, thinking of going to 285/70/18, will this kit work with 18" rims?
🤔
Does this same method work on 2019s?
How is the ride quality impacted over OEM setup? Is there any need for a camber bolt modification kit?
IT's a little stiffer then OEM. The shop that did my alignment didn't have a problem.
@@saintsandsin3885 mine is smooth on road if i fit my leveling spacer, is it gonna be stiffer ?
@@sarifarsitv4974 Best I can say is a tad bit stiffer but I would not consider the ride ruined.
Does this kit require cam plates or bolts? And if it’s not needed, do you still recommend them for this kit?
They don’t make mention of recommending the cam plate/bolt kit but when I called them, they said they installed them on 99% of the leveling kit installs they did.
EXCELENTE VIDEO
Ok, so heres my input - I installed this kit into my 22 F150 Tremor a few days ago - took about 2.5 hours for both sides in my home garage - video makes it look so much easier ..lol.. power of editing - wasn't that bad of an install.. usual pain in the ass kind of things like getting the new strut lined up fighting the UCA and LCA for clearance while lining up the holes ---BUT -- I would not do this method If doing again - Why , because you mess with the LCA which is what's used to keep your Camber and Caster in check... Took my truck by the Ford Dealership to let them do the alignment and was told to do it right I would need a Camber adjustment kit ( need two Moog kits - $60) but they could get the Toe in spec ( Toe was at 5.6) - so I get the Truck back and Toe is not in spec (0.57, 0.54)and they state that's the best they could do without the kit ( So at this time , Toe, camber and caster are out of spec) ... so I bought the kit and I will need to install myself and I could bring back and they would do again for 50% off the original $109 price.....after researching online - I found out basically they didn't want to put the extra time in - to get the alignment perfect and would take 2 techs to do the alignment as the camber kit makes it easy and a one person job. So after reading further I see hundreds of replies where others had an alignment and the toe was just barely out of spec and was then corrected easily with an alignment.... so by working from the top down, your not messing with any of the alignment nuts --- so doing it this way cost me $60 for the camber kit and another $55 for the 2nd alignment ($115) ... just throwing some extra info out there -
You can use a sharpie marker and mark your alignment positions prior to removing your LCA. This will help you reinstall to the same alignment position prior to installation. You will still need to have truck realigned but it will be much closer to factory.
Which camber/caster kit did you order and from who? I just used this kit on my 2021 and am having the same issue
@@chaserichter2743 bought through amazon -- Moog K100070 Caster/Camber - you will need 2 kits one for each side, easy to install but afterwards you will need an alignment - makes it easy for the installer to dial in the correct alignment plus keeps the alignment "more" locked in, hope this helps
@@deaconnyte9748 I really appreciate that! My camber is awful on driver side. So I’m trying to save my new BFG’s before it’s to late.
Does this technique work on the prior gen f150s?
Yes. I did it this was on my 2018. My first time doing a level kit too.
Yes. I did it this was on my 2018. My first time doing a level kit too.
Yes. I did it this was on my 2018. My first time doing a level kit too.
Whats the tire size on this set up?
295 70 r18 or 295 60 r20
The tire we used is a 295/60R20 Nitto Recon Grappler. We've got links in the description if you want to check it out
I went with a 275-65r20 bridgestone revo 3 on those exact wheels works really good and they are 34 inches tall just not as wide as the 295-60r20
@Stage 3 Motorsports if you dont loosen the control arm bolts and just pray down on the control arm to install the leveling kit would the bushings in the control arms be binded up with the 2 inch level putting more strain on the bushings causing them to be twisted more than from the factory height
@stage3motorsports and rim?
Does it void the warranty?
Why drop strut completely out? Can’t you pull strut down, add spacer and tighten that up then slide it back up?
You have to flip the struts.
Can u do a new 2wd drive also if it’s any different of tire size or space or is about the same to fit on rim and tire with original 18 inch rim
I haven't personally installed this on a 2wd truck so I'm not 100% sure what fitment would work best, but we've had customers install this spacer on 2wd trucks and still manage to run a 295/60R20 without problems. An equivalent 33" or 34" tire for the factory 18" wheels should still work too.
Should do a video one day on a 2wd lot people looking for that also not many videos that’s a niche 👍🏻
Do you think I can add this level kit to my 2022 2WD and get no rub with my 275/65r20s with +12 offset? Not looking to have to do anything to the truck
Giving the torque specs would be helpful!
I just bought a stock 22 F150, 20 inch wheels. Will this spacer level with the rear end?
Call me crazy, but I hate the idea of the cv joint and UCA knuckle bent that sharply just hanging there. I know nothing is likely to happen to the boots, but it makes me paranoid they're going to tear and start leaking. also, a good rolling head pry bar is great for lining up the LCA bolts and using it to angle the LCA if the hole doesn't line up correctly, like with one side slightly lower than the other.
This video is doing a disservice to those who choose to install the kit themselves. You don't mention that the LCA holes are slotted. It is not possible to get them back to the factory position by hand due to the compressed force. I followed this video and had to do a driveway alignment because the LCA's were kicked out so bad and toe was undriveable. You should say in the video that lower control arm cams are required with this method. For the average person I recommend going the normal route through the top control arm.
I just did this on a four-by-four as well I undid the half shafts pulled the upper arm from the knuckle bolted the spacers on to the struts put the bolts in the lower arms what the help of my coworker we push down on the arm and the knuckle and shove the strut assembly back into the pocket and then Tuesday for Jack to raise the lower arm and knuckle into place after sliding the axle back through
@@SumDumFukr is there a video of this method anywhere you can share with us?
@g9pipes I wish I would of recorded it I found this video after
You took the time to point out your engineered offset, but never said which way it should be installed.
At 5:06 I point out that the spacers only fit on one way, so you can't install it wrong. All you gotta do is line up the holes.
@@stage3motorsports you said the leveling kit only fit on the strut one way, not that the strut only fits in the truck one way, which it’s does not
@@rjdavis947 This had me perplexed also until I got the kit. It's literally idiot proof. The three threaded mounting bolts are not an equally spaced apart triangle. When you mount the spacer you have to spin the strut 180 degrees. It will not mount any other way.
@@saintsandsin3885 thank you! A simple, meaningful answer, is all I was after.
@@rjdavis947 “only fits one way” is about as straight forward an answer you can get! 😂
how is the cv joint angle with these?
can you come do my truck please?
Is this the same process for the 2021+ Raptors?
can you do one with and F-150 Hybrid?
Why does this not fit models earlier than 2021?
I am wondering if this lift will fit a 2023 F150 Lightning?
Stage 3 Motorsports - i was told by a 4 wheel drive shop these leveling kits are not ideal because it actually changes the geometry of how everything is supposed to work. An actual lift kit doesn't and make its all correct. Hear the same thing from a Ford Dealer on TH-cam that does both the spacers and left kits.
Does anyone know if a front level kit for a 2022 F150 will fit a 2023 F150?
Great Azz Video
This was a bad idea and messed the alignment up way worse than doing this the “traditional” way. I would not recommend dropping the lower control arm as they did in this video.
Not to mention that this video conflicts with the instructions sent with the spacers.
You would need an alignment regardless after installing a level kit. Shouldn't matter
Not so easy
Im a professional mechanic and i hate hate hate doing any kind of alteration that doesnt fix anything. One just came in for a lift kit and this is an insult to me. A waste of my time and nothing learned. Thanks for the video, i hope i never do this crap again
This method DOES NOT WORK with 2.5” spacers
Why!! Tell me !!
I’m about to do one
I think it was just enough of a difference to where the studs on the bottom of the strut couldn’t get lined up enough with the lower control arm holes when putting everything back together. I spent like 6 hours trying to get them to go back thru the holes lol. I ended up putting everything back to stock and having 4 Wheel Parts do the install because I was defeated by the whole thing
I got the 2.5 spacers and worked just fine for me.
You need to hit it with your purse much harder.
Will this work on the '22 Lightning?