About time somebody who actually explains their work, I doubt I'll need to watch other videos of urs for a long while.... but can't help but subscribe for sombody who actually explains stuff while showing u at the same time unlike other videos lol. Great work, I've always wondered how to wire the wires so clean cool to see it's simple as a piece of plastic. Amazing work!
Wild the amount of work that goes into this. I think I’d end up replacing all the speakers at once if I did it myself, so I wouldn’t have to mess with it again😂
I wanted to say thank you for the tutorials, I was able to swap front speakers, rear speakers, and add a powered subwoofer, as well as sound dampen all 4 doors of my 23' F150 Hybrid because of all of your video tutorials. All of this done solo, in 1/2 a day. Without your videos I would have made a lot of mistakes, and many trips to get wiring material and tools. You saved me much time and trouble. Amazing!
@@LongNguyen-dd6tzI have lightning xlt. Put in a kicker key 200.4 to power front component speakers (tweets in a pillars) and rear coax speakers. Also adding a key 500.1 and the sub box used in this vid for lows. Sounds great so far. Can’t wait for the subs.
The magnet is a very important tool for this job. I didn't lose any of the screws, but I now have a 9/32" (7mm) nut driver bit that lives somewhere in my dash.
That’s a very clean install, I’m impressed, great job, we’re wanting to do a sub install on our 2020 Ford F-150, I will be following your video here for guidance, thank you for sharing
I have a 2021 F150 non-B&O I did everything step by step and used the exact same products. My remote wire has constant power and I have to find a different way to power my amp. Thought??
Nope! Load resistors are only needed if rerouting your audio signal from that radio to an amplifier (instead of the speakers). The OEM radio needs to see a load to function correctly, hence why we add those resistors when sending the radio's signal to a multi-channel amplifier. For just a mono, since the speakers are still connected to the radio and we are just borrowing signal for our setup, no resistors are needed.
Can you show both the amp settings and head unit settings you used for tuning. I used a scosche loc and different amp but don’t get ground shaking bass.
I’ve seen with the hybrids to not go above 30 amp draw. Would this not be an issue with the power-boost. Looking to install an amp in mine and wondering if it would be fine with a regular 12V battery under the hood.
Awesome video sir thank you, is it possible to go with everything the same but run single 12 instead of what you did here run 2 12s? Also which bass knob did you install I see the parts you listed, the amp and lc2 both have knobs just trying to make sure I don’t miss a step. Also where the heck did you install the lc2 i just realized you didn’t show where you mounted, wired. Nada. 😂
Singe 12 still will work fine. We didn't use the LC2i here, rather a Pac LP7-2 which is why you didn't see it. If you use an LC2i instead, just use the included bass knob with that instead of the one that is included with the amp.
@@ProvoBeastAudioAwesome thank you for the reply. Your video has been the best tutorial I have found. Gonna buy these exact same products not sure in the single or dual 12” subs but either way it’s gonna bump!
On non-B&O trims whenever you redirect audio output from the OEM speakers to a LOC. If just adding an amp and sub, keeping speakers tied directly into an OEM radio, no load resistors are needed. We load all channels when required.
Stinger amp has allows you to easily flush mount it. Just drill a small hole, includes a nut and washer to mount it, add the plastic knob. Makes for a nice clean install.
thanks for explaining in a way that made installation very 'simple. But one question. the power light ln he amp is on all the time even when truck is off. is that ok. run battery down? thanks in advance
Well if you used the parts we did, the amp will go off when the truck goes to sleep, often times up to 5 minutes after the truck is off. It should be on all the time, that will drain the battery.
@@CharliePurvis-m3r Shut and lock doors, wait for 5 min, light should turn off. Same thing with turn on, as soon as you unlock and open the door, the amp will turn on as the truck awakens,
does this install work exactly with the F150 Lightning? Attaching it to the 12v battery in the frunk and the same ground in the back? I also have the XLT version of the lightning. Great video overall!
@ProvoBeastAudio 23 F150 Supercrew I used same set up as you ,tied into rear speakers behind front passenger seat at the pillar instead of PAC at back of head unit,about once every 3 key cycles my rear speaker will not play audio therefore my subs dont power up,any ideas? Should I use a PAC instead?
So I got this setup my skar subs are 1ohm at 1000 watts RMS which equals about 31volts on a multimeter. So I played a 50hz test tone at my clean radio volume and turned the gain until I got 30-31 volts on my multimeter . Is this correct please ?? Cause my shit is EATIN!! 😁😁
Thanks for the video. Kinda surprised since you went with a 1 Ohm connection with the amp to not include a capacitor to help with any power surges. You did go with a 2 driver sub system around 1000 watts, that's going to pull some amps. Whenever I install a 2 driver sub I like to include a Capacitor for peace of mind.
most capacitors are worthless. If you need help with voltage drops and current needs, you are much better off upgrading your battery under the hood, doing a big 3 upgrade, and if needed a second battery / super cap / isolator. Most caps on amazon are garbage (filled with sand to fee "quality"). Please don't waste your money on them.
Hi! I’m planning on running a high level input from this same harness to a powered subwoofer, so I don’t think I need a LOC, but is there a way to get a remote turn on wire from the T harness? I’m confused by that.
There is no remote / accessory wire at the factory radio as it's all controlled by data. If you need a remote turn on (and your amplifier doesn't have any DC offset capabilities through the high level input), you will have to go to the fuse box or an accessory source for switched accessory power for your amp. Honestly, the Pac module is the easiest route.
Just for bass in this video, but you can add a multi channel amp (5 channel amp) that would power the interior 4 channels, and a sub channel, all in one. Similar T harness, but a few extra things are needed. I offer a full T harness kit if you were to also power your interior speakers on another amplifier: www.provobeast.com/product-page/2021-ford-amplifier-t-harness-wire-kit-for-factory-oem-head-unit
Yeah, those Pac T harness are great for that. This pac harness is for non-B&O trim, so if that applies to you, it will work great (linked in description)
Hello I have 1 quick question regarding this installation video also I really appreciate your video as I am just about to start doing my installation on my 2022 Ford F-150xl & although I have done MANY installation jobs & ALL of my own installations they have all been in older vehicles before the Ford sync system that they all have now & I was kind of intimidated by that part if I'm being honest I'm still quite intimidated after your video of going behind the screen to hook up my LOC after seeing how much trim is required to get to it, so is it still possible to just splice in my LOC to my rear door speakers like I have done in many other installations I've done in the past? I'm just concerned of doing something that may mess up the Ford sync system so I was curious if that way is possible to hook up LOC without messing up the Ford sync system? Thanks
So I have a 2017 f150 xlt, it has a upgraded sync 3 screen unit will this wiring harness not work with this, if not what other harness should I use I been trying to find one for a long while but can't seem to find anything that's as simple as this harness. Any pointers?
Question will this harness work on a F150 2023 XL with a 8in screen? Curious cause the harness listed now looks a tad bit different then what you have in the video. Just a new model?
Question for ya guys i just had a skar audio underseat subwoofer and amp installed on 2023 ford f150. On this install does the amp stay powered on and lite up a few minutes after the truck is off. I was told this is normal because the Radio stays powered up after vehicle is off. This worries me cause I don't wanna run my battery down.
@@ProvoBeastAudio I got the pre made box from skar for a single 12. But I don’t know if it’s made for a shallow mount or not. But it’s made for my f 150 it says
So I am doing this right now (started yesterday) with a powered sub, and I stupidly did not disconnect the battery before doing so. After trying to fire everything up after getting this connected, the proximity lights/door unlock have stopped, the dome lights, instrument cluster/screen, and infotainment display have stopped working, and the vehicle will not start. I’ve charged the battery and even replaced the battery, as well as checked the fuses. All I have checked looks good, and I have even disconnected the sub and wire harness so that it is not a factor, and it still does the same thing. Anyone else have this issue? Did I miss something important when reconnecting? I was pretty sure I reconnected everything properly, but it’s sounding more and more like I missed something important or knocked something loose. so if anyone knows which connector to check based on what is going on, I’m all ears!
I have a kicker kISLOC2 LOC, it does not have a yellow wire, only has four speaker wires a ground wire, and a blue remote wire. Will this work with the set up? Thank you
Hey man I’m looking to add an amp and a double sub setup under the back seat of my truck. Do you have a social media email so I can send pictures without having to give away ur personal email? It’ll just be easier for me to send you the links on amazon/send you photos of what I’m about to order.
Parts used and recommended linked in the description of the video!
What about the inline fuse with bracket?
Just realized, that you fabricated that bracket, well done, sir!
About time somebody who actually explains their work, I doubt I'll need to watch other videos of urs for a long while.... but can't help but subscribe for sombody who actually explains stuff while showing u at the same time unlike other videos lol. Great work, I've always wondered how to wire the wires so clean cool to see it's simple as a piece of plastic. Amazing work!
Wild the amount of work that goes into this. I think I’d end up replacing all the speakers at once if I did it myself, so I wouldn’t have to mess with it again😂
I wanted to say thank you for the tutorials, I was able to swap front speakers, rear speakers, and add a powered subwoofer, as well as sound dampen all 4 doors of my 23' F150 Hybrid because of all of your video tutorials. All of this done solo, in 1/2 a day. Without your videos I would have made a lot of mistakes, and many trips to get wiring material and tools. You saved me much time and trouble. Amazing!
perfect timing man. Just started working on my F150 lightning XLT and this video popped up. you are the best.
I am learning his awesome video, I got a pro lightning, do I need to put a new amplifier to make the sound better?
Yes he is the best, I learn to replace the new speaker from his tutorial video
@@LongNguyen-dd6tzI have lightning xlt. Put in a kicker key 200.4 to power front component speakers (tweets in a pillars) and rear coax speakers. Also adding a key 500.1 and the sub box used in this vid for lows. Sounds great so far. Can’t wait for the subs.
Thank you for this video. Will be my next chore on the 2023 F150.
The magnet is a very important tool for this job. I didn't lose any of the screws, but I now have a 9/32" (7mm) nut driver bit that lives somewhere in my dash.
RIP
That’s a very clean install, I’m impressed, great job, we’re wanting to do a sub install on our 2020 Ford F-150, I will be following your video here for guidance, thank you for sharing
Did you have to disconnect the rear secondary battery as well during installation?
is there a tutorial on how to connect the output converter without the harness?
nice. will be doing this next week
I have a 2021 F150 non-B&O I did everything step by step and used the exact same products. My remote wire has constant power and I have to find a different way to power my amp. Thought??
Do you have a video where you wired it using rear speakers?
Where does the bass control knob go hooked up to?
What size bolt was used for the ground wire?
How did you get to that grommet? I’m trying and I can’t even see it from the inside
So people this is a aluminum chase you have to use a factory ground or go straight to the battery
In place for the line out converter in the video can use the lc2i?
Is signal correction necessary in this application and vehicle? Such as the kicker keyloc or audio control lc2i pro to combat bass roll off??
Isn't the F-150 cab aluminum? Do you need to ground back to the battery properly?
thats what i was thinking too
there is a factory ground location behind the carpet behind the seat on the top right i believe. it should be a solid ground location
What size was the bolt hole you used for the ground?
That’s what I need to know!
What sizes of bolt you use for the ground ??? And thank you
are the load resistors not required when adding just a mono amp and subs?
Nope! Load resistors are only needed if rerouting your audio signal from that radio to an amplifier (instead of the speakers). The OEM radio needs to see a load to function correctly, hence why we add those resistors when sending the radio's signal to a multi-channel amplifier. For just a mono, since the speakers are still connected to the radio and we are just borrowing signal for our setup, no resistors are needed.
Can you show both the amp settings and head unit settings you used for tuning. I used a scosche loc and different amp but don’t get ground shaking bass.
What is that black ribbed tubing encasing the power that went thru the passenger firewall grommet?
Do you have a video like this for a 2014 ford?
That’s thin abs I made mine out 1/4” for my trunk factory location mounting my amp didn’t want it rattling
no rattles here.
I’ve seen with the hybrids to not go above 30 amp draw. Would this not be an issue with the power-boost. Looking to install an amp in mine and wondering if it would be fine with a regular 12V battery under the hood.
Awesome video sir thank you, is it possible to go with everything the same but run single 12 instead of what you did here run 2 12s?
Also which bass knob did you install I see the parts you listed, the amp and lc2 both have knobs just trying to make sure I don’t miss a step.
Also where the heck did you install the lc2 i just realized you didn’t show where you mounted, wired. Nada. 😂
Singe 12 still will work fine. We didn't use the LC2i here, rather a Pac LP7-2 which is why you didn't see it. If you use an LC2i instead, just use the included bass knob with that instead of the one that is included with the amp.
@@ProvoBeastAudioAwesome thank you for the reply. Your video has been the best tutorial I have found. Gonna buy these exact same products not sure in the single or dual 12” subs but either way it’s gonna bump!
@ProvoBeastAudio Chris, what channels on a '21+ F150 require load resistors to prevent potential issues?
On non-B&O trims whenever you redirect audio output from the OEM speakers to a LOC. If just adding an amp and sub, keeping speakers tied directly into an OEM radio, no load resistors are needed. We load all channels when required.
Awesome video! I’m going to follow this to do an install in my F150. One question, though. How did you mount the bass knob?
Stinger amp has allows you to easily flush mount it. Just drill a small hole, includes a nut and washer to mount it, add the plastic knob. Makes for a nice clean install.
Thanks for the response. Should’ve waited for my parts to arrive before I asked! Again, very helpful video and thank you!
Awesome install!! Where do you get your custom heat shrink from?
Wirecare!
Is signal correction needed with a non b&o system?
thanks for explaining in a way that made installation very 'simple. But one question. the power light ln he amp is on all the time even when truck is off. is that ok. run battery down? thanks in advance
Well if you used the parts we did, the amp will go off when the truck goes to sleep, often times up to 5 minutes after the truck is off. It should be on all the time, that will drain the battery.
@@ProvoBeastAudio I used everything on your video except amp but same amp. Have a skar amp .
@@CharliePurvis-m3r Shut and lock doors, wait for 5 min, light should turn off. Same thing with turn on, as soon as you unlock and open the door, the amp will turn on as the truck awakens,
does this install work exactly with the F150 Lightning? Attaching it to the 12v battery in the frunk and the same ground in the back? I also have the XLT version of the lightning. Great video overall!
Yep, same principle!
@ProvoBeastAudio 23 F150 Supercrew I used same set up as you ,tied into rear speakers behind front passenger seat at the pillar instead of PAC at back of head unit,about once every 3 key cycles my rear speaker will not play audio therefore my subs dont power up,any ideas? Should I use a PAC instead?
So I got this setup my skar subs are 1ohm at 1000 watts RMS which equals about 31volts on a multimeter. So I played a 50hz test tone at my clean radio volume and turned the gain until I got 30-31 volts on my multimeter . Is this correct please ?? Cause my shit is EATIN!! 😁😁
Thanks for the video. Kinda surprised since you went with a 1 Ohm connection with the amp to not include a capacitor to help with any power surges. You did go with a 2 driver sub system around 1000 watts, that's going to pull some amps. Whenever I install a 2 driver sub I like to include a Capacitor for peace of mind.
most capacitors are worthless. If you need help with voltage drops and current needs, you are much better off upgrading your battery under the hood, doing a big 3 upgrade, and if needed a second battery / super cap / isolator. Most caps on amazon are garbage (filled with sand to fee "quality"). Please don't waste your money on them.
@@ProvoBeastAudio Thank you for that advise, I was always curious about the Caps
Hello I have a question. Will a capacitor or high output alternator or larger battery be needed for a sound system under 1000 watt’s rms? Thanks
A healthy battery is all thats needed. IF worried for something under 1000w RMS, considering doing a big 3 upgrade (video on channel).
does that skar pack come with the bass knob? or do we have to purchase that separately?
Bass knob does not come with the skar pack.
Hi! I’m planning on running a high level input from this same harness to a powered subwoofer, so I don’t think I need a LOC, but is there a way to get a remote turn on wire from the T harness? I’m confused by that.
There is no remote / accessory wire at the factory radio as it's all controlled by data. If you need a remote turn on (and your amplifier doesn't have any DC offset capabilities through the high level input), you will have to go to the fuse box or an accessory source for switched accessory power for your amp. Honestly, the Pac module is the easiest route.
Your amp setup is just for the bass correct? You would need another amp for speakers as well? Would you use the same t harness for a second amp?
Just for bass in this video, but you can add a multi channel amp (5 channel amp) that would power the interior 4 channels, and a sub channel, all in one. Similar T harness, but a few extra things are needed. I offer a full T harness kit if you were to also power your interior speakers on another amplifier: www.provobeast.com/product-page/2021-ford-amplifier-t-harness-wire-kit-for-factory-oem-head-unit
@@ProvoBeastAudio you’re amazing. Thank you!!
Could that pac harness be used in the same way to use a Hertz S8 DSP? Or any DSP instead of using the line out converter?
Yeah, those Pac T harness are great for that. This pac harness is for non-B&O trim, so if that applies to you, it will work great (linked in description)
Hello I have 1 quick question regarding this installation video also I really appreciate your video as I am just about to start doing my installation on my 2022 Ford F-150xl & although I have done MANY installation jobs & ALL of my own installations they have all been in older vehicles before the Ford sync system that they all have now & I was kind of intimidated by that part if I'm being honest I'm still quite intimidated after your video of going behind the screen to hook up my LOC after seeing how much trim is required to get to it, so is it still possible to just splice in my LOC to my rear door speakers like I have done in many other installations I've done in the past? I'm just concerned of doing something that may mess up the Ford sync system so I was curious if that way is possible to hook up LOC without messing up the Ford sync system? Thanks
If you’re using a diff LOC don’t cut the red accessory. That’s your remote wire. I learned the hard way
So I have a 2017 f150 xlt, it has a upgraded sync 3 screen unit will this wiring harness not work with this, if not what other harness should I use I been trying to find one for a long while but can't seem to find anything that's as simple as this harness. Any pointers?
For the 2017, you need the Pac LPH-FD21 version of the harness (non-B&O): amzn.to/3SFiKq4
Question will this harness work on a F150 2023 XL with a 8in screen? Curious cause the harness listed now looks a tad bit different then what you have in the video. Just a new model?
Pull the radio and see what connector it has. Just a few screws and trim pieces.
would this be same for bronco sport? cause i have the door speakers just maybe need amp and sub box
Yes, shame harness and technique, although this box is made just for this F150.
Question for ya guys i just had a skar audio underseat subwoofer and amp installed on 2023 ford f150. On this install does the amp stay powered on and lite up a few minutes after the truck is off. I was told this is normal because the Radio stays powered up after vehicle is off. This worries me cause I don't wanna run my battery down.
I have a 23 as well, I shared you concern initially, it goes off briefly after shutting vehicle off,no battery drain issues 3 months later.
How do you secure the amp/rack to the floor? Or is it just sitting there?
Snagged a bolt to the side of the abs mount.
Does it have to be shallow mount subs? I have a single 12” skar sub but it’s not a shallow mount. Will I fit under the back seat?
All depends on the box you install.
@@ProvoBeastAudio I got the pre made box from skar for a single 12. But I don’t know if it’s made for a shallow mount or not. But it’s made for my f 150 it says
How many rca
Outs does it have
On what? The amplifier?
How much does a installation like this cost if i bring all the audio parts ?
All depends on the shop. Some shops wont let you bring outside equipment, some do. I'd just call around.
How much do you guys charge? I'm in utah County, and I just need some bass in my f150 and ran across this on youtube.
How does a system like this cost for equipment and labor in total?
All parts we used are linked in the description of the video for prices. As for labor every shop differs so you may need to call around.
I'll check them out thanks. Great work
So I am doing this right now (started yesterday) with a powered sub, and I stupidly did not disconnect the battery before doing so. After trying to fire everything up after getting this connected, the proximity lights/door unlock have stopped, the dome lights, instrument cluster/screen, and infotainment display have stopped working, and the vehicle will not start. I’ve charged the battery and even replaced the battery, as well as checked the fuses. All I have checked looks good, and I have even disconnected the sub and wire harness so that it is not a factor, and it still does the same thing.
Anyone else have this issue? Did I miss something important when reconnecting? I was pretty sure I reconnected everything properly, but it’s sounding more and more like I missed something important or knocked something loose. so if anyone knows which connector to check based on what is going on, I’m all ears!
Sounds like a bad connection at the battery. I'd recheck all connections, or consider seeing your local audio / mechanic shop for assistance
Same thing happened to me. Did you resolve this?
I have a kicker kISLOC2 LOC, it does not have a yellow wire, only has four speaker wires a ground wire, and a blue remote wire. Will this work with the set up? Thank you
Yes it will work
Hey man I’m looking to add an amp and a double sub setup under the back seat of my truck. Do you have a social media email so I can send pictures without having to give away ur personal email? It’ll just be easier for me to send you the links on amazon/send you photos of what I’m about to order.
Facebook / Instagram.
@@ProvoBeastAudio are yall in Provo Utah?
@@ProvoBeastAudio Nevermind I see you guys are in Lehi! Hello from Ogden! But I messaged you on instagram!
Waste of money your ears can’t tell the different with the music you listen to lmfaoooo
Says someone who probably never has had a quality bass setup.
@ all that bass that just gonna rattle everything in the car for lame ass rap music