A COMMENT I MADE THAT MIGHT HELP OTHERS THAT WANT TO SMOOTH OUT ON/OFF THROTTLE AND ENGINE BREAKING:....while trying to help ytmikeny (see below comments). "So I had a chance to take a quick look at the Throttle By Wire Maps for your R6. Not sure why there are so many maps (13???) for each mode when you only have 6 gears. Maybe u know? (Edited: I have since found out that there are so many maps to allow you to personalize a ton of maps for each mode and each gear...cool for sure) Anyway, once u figure that out, the throttle control looks to be the same type of throttle % roll on / to amount of gas the engine is getting at any given time. To clarify, the number in each cell in these maps represent the amount of fuel the ECU is sending to the engine based on the throttle position and the RPMs. So this is where u will want to make most of your adjustments to get your bike to feel smoother, including the reduction of engine breaking (oh and yes, turn on "disable engine decel" by making it read true. We do this because we want the ECU to continue providing fuel to the engine, even in decel, if only ever so slightly, as this reduces engine breaking. No fuel equates to engine breaking. A little fuel equates to less engine breaking, the question u have to decide is how much engine breaking do u want because it is all of function of the amount of fuel in each cell in the "Throttle by wire" maps. I chose to only modify the Standard maps and left the other modes (A and B) alone (they are from the TAD Image). So, where to start? In the upper left portion of each of the maps (and again find out why there are 13 maps for each mode), assuming u r adjusting the maps in the Standard mode, start making small adjustments to the cells in the RPM ranges Below 6000 RPM and above 1500 RPM (or what ever your bike is set to idle at) and in the throttle % cells from 0 to 10-12%. U will have to fiddle around with the actual RPM range area (you may have to adjust higher than 6000 RPM) as I am not sure about the R6's power band. The R1 grunts with power from the get go. Regardless, the ideas is to smooth out the numbers in small increasing increments in each of the cells from 0% Throttle to 12% Throttle so as u roll on the throttle the bike doesn't get too much fuel too early. I analysed the amount of change for each cell for each RPM range and made adjustments that I thought were pretty balanced and linear from about 1500 RPMs up to about 6500 RPMs in the cells from 0% throttle to around 12% throttle. Now, for the off throttle engine breaking, the adjustments are in the lower Throttle% ranges, but in the slightly higher RPMs (say 5000-9000 RPMs and less than 10% throttle) you would add small amounts of fuel to the low throttle ranges (in the higher RPMs) in a decreasing but balanced fashion so the bike is getting slightly more fuel, than the stock values, as you slow down/come off throttle and you reduce the % of fuel as you reduce throttle, say from 8% throttle down to 0% throttle. By adding a little more fuel, it will decrease the engine breaking and allow for a smoother "Back on" throttle when you roll back on because the engine is getting more gas to start with as u twist your writs. BE ADVISED THAT "ALL" THE ADJUSTMENTS I AM TALKING ABOUT ARE SMALL AMOUNTS OF FUEL ADJUSTMENTS IN THE RANGE OF .2% of 1%, SO LESS THAN A HALF OF A PERCENTAGE POINT. Start with very small adjustments and then from there add or adjust until you get her perfect. Damn u, now I want to go ride. Let me know when u have adjusted some maps and we can figure out a way to shared them and I will walk u thru this process. Be good and kind bro. Talk to ya soon...La"
Thanks for this! I just got the software setup and could tell a huge difference with just the regular "unrestricted" map for my bike (Yamaha MT07). The throttle was still a little jumpy for those on/off transitions and I have a pretty good idea of what I need to do to smooth it out even more now.
Great video very clear explanation and yeah I agree with Creedmoor extra fuel for inner or rear cylinders to keep them cooler rather than extra power....keep up the good work !!
Fuel offsets are developed based on cylinder design effects such as thermal transfer differences due to cylinder position, coolant flow characteristics around the subject cylinder, and other such differences between the cylinders etc. However, intake track and head temperature affect atomization which can affect combustion time and flame front geometry and how it changes during and after mixture ignition. On a development engine we would have matched O2 sensors, one for each Header pipe.
Naw man good vid. I have a mt09 with power vision 3 so it a little easier for me. I write tunes with dynojet software and copy to the pv3 and flash to bike. Still new to it so this vid was super helpful
Dont just randomly adjust the fuel maps because they look choppy. On cars thats not a horrible idea done sparingly, but motos have such a wide rpm range, you end up with harmonics at certain RPM intervals that cause the bike to richen up due to lack of air and will make the map look choppy in those areas. The harmonics are the sound waves bouncing off the intake valves and and causing air to be pushed back out the intake runners. If you know about ram tuning effect with velocity stacks this will make sense to you, but that tuning can only be right in one spot which is why newer stuff has the variable velocity stacks to deal with it. Still, there are going to be spots where those two lengths of stack become 180 degrees out of phase to the incoming air and stalls or reverses airflow till you get out of that spot.
I am La thanks my dude... have a blessed day as well. I'm just trying to educate myself in tuning motorcycles. It seems pretty easy now that you've explained the basics and software in detail.
Moto Marzzz ... For sure. How to get the Moto to feel like u want it, at least for Yamis is in the Throttle by wire maps. Fueling and Dyno tuning is a little more involved but the basic "on/off throttle smoothness can be manipulated as u see fit. Good luck bro... La
i know this video is old but i really appreciate it. very informative. i just got a flashtune bench side kit for my 09 R6. completely new bike. well worth it money.
@@IamLaR1 i will definitely let you know if i need help. i notice that there is 3 maps i can pick in the de restricted folder 2 us and one generic. whats the difference between these three maps
@@swingdaddy2126 ...depending on what region you live in, you want to use those maps to flash your ECU. THen from there you can begin slowly making adjustments to make your bike yours.
im writing a similar program my self that read/write the ecu for a small yamaha bike. the problem is that the bike doesnt have afr or lamda sensor and i dont know how to tune it. plus the bike uses speed density not tps for engine load
U can flash the same file as long as they are the same year/model bike, as you stated. You will need two separate subscriptions because each ECU has a different number and has to be registered on the Flashtune servers. But once you have that, u should be good to go.
they dont seem to support my year. I have a 2009 honda cbr1000rr, stock headers, full length Danmoto sc59. IS there a kit that will work with my bike? I can find a data link cable to a PC but what software should I use? Im hoping to find a popular one that Honda guys use with preset tunes like youre showing us there.
wow thanks man that a great video. I am getting my tuning kit for my 2019 ZX6R very soon. I am looking forward to really making the throttle smoother. I hate engine braking also. So you can turn off the engine braking on the ECU Modules taps right? I also have a factory quick shifter, do I have to do anything special if I flash the unrestricted ECU flash? Thanks I really don't want blow my motor up or make it worst.
My man u caught me on the tube...nice. The new flashes have more maps, so dont let that confuse u. It is the same principal as I showed in my video. Everything u will need to do to smooth out ur throttle is done in the Throttle-by-wire maps. You will not have to touch any other maps, including your quick shifter timing. You just have to make sure u r aware of what maps are activated when you are in each gear. My 2016 R1 uses 0 map for Neutral, Map 1 for 1st gear, Map 2 for 2nd, and map 3 for 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th. Once u know this, then you know what maps you need to adjust. U can even assign individual maps for each gear if u want. If you have any questions just come back. Word to the wise...make very very small changes in the cells of the maps, ride the bike, then make more very very small changes as needed.
Unfortunately there are none that I know of. I can do my best to try to help you or you might be able to go to the FT ECU Website and visit their forums.
I have an r3, how does it plug in? In the flash tune tut the guy just plugs it in but in the picture theres a 2nd harness with 4 pins that the tut vid didnt go over.
Hey brother, great and informative video. Just a quick question. What's your experience with the auto tuner and how does it work? Do you flash a map then just let the auto tuner do its thing, or do you just install the auto tuner and let it go without installing a map? For reference, MT10 with full akropovic. Thanks man! Much love.
I actually recently got an Autoturner/Activetune for my 2016 R1 and yes u r correct. U flash the bike as normal and make the adjustments u want to ur Throttle by Wire maps, so that ur on/off throttle feels how u like it. To get the Autoturner to work, the FTECU software will have to be upgraded, so that it recognizes the Autoturner and can receive inputs from the new sensor. The whole activetune thing works in two ways, once the Autoturner is recognized by the software. Firstly, there is a setting in the software that u turn on and the exhaust sensor (the autotune sensor) will read the exhaust, just like the standard/stock O2 sensor does, and then it sends signals to the ECU to make adjustments to the fueling "on the run" to try to keep ur bike at the ideal air to fuel ratios. This is the same thing the stock O2 sensors do, but the FTECU one apparently takes more reading per second and is more sensitive, so I guess. These fueling adjustments, while riding, that the sensor tells the ECU to make are only saved while there is power to the ECU and this is important. With the autotune turned on and while u are riding and going thru the RPM ranges the sensor is constantly making adjustments and these adjustments will be lost once u turn the key off on ur bike. That is the first way this puppy works. The second way the Autoturner works is that u can save all the adjustments that the Autoturner made during your ride as long as you leave the key on ( keep power to the ECU). U can kill the engine, but u need to leave the key on. Once you are ready to save the fueling adjustments, u are gonna need the bike side harness and your computer. Important...for this to work u need the bike side harness. With ur PC ( I have a laptop) hooked up to the bike and the power still on, you go thru the steps of saving all the fueling adjustments and then re-flashing your ECU. Why would u want to do this? In theory, each time you save fueling adjustments, your active turner will have less work to do the next time u ride. Hope that helped playa...La
@@IamLaR1 thank you so much for the detailed reply. This would make a pretty solid video as well. I'm going to order the FTEcu and auto tuner tomorrow. Are there any websites that you receive a kick back from that I should order from? Or just straight from ftecu? You're one of the main reasons I'm buying this and I'd like to make sure you're recognized.
@@Shifty12B ... No worries... No kickback, but thanks. Just remember that the Active tune needs the bike side harness and not the desktop adapter because u have to keep power to the ECU. I am planning on making a video for the 2016 R1 and the reason there are so many maps that are note being use and this will also include the Active Tune "how to". Let me know if u have anymore questions... La
@@Shifty12B ... Once u download the software, u can go in and look at my maps (under users maps...showed this step in the video) and compare them to the "stock" maps and see where/how much I have changed them to get a smooth throttle, so u can get a feel for how much changing is needed and it is not a lot. For my 09 all my work is done in the Throttle by Wire "standard mode" maps. I recognize u have a different bike, but it might help... Else just comeback here a fire questions off. Be good and be kind bro... La
Unfortunately I do not think they have any type of manual available. So you have to learn this stuff on your own which kinda sucks. I will help you as much as I can. Is there something specific you are having issues with?
Something I don't understand: In the Fuel/TPS vs RPM maps you adjust the amount of fuel PER CYLINDER, and then in the Throttle-by-wire maps you adjust the amount of fuel PER GEAR. How do these maps affect or relate to each other?
I am no expert but this is my take...the TPS vs RPM maps are used to fine tune the engine specifically cylinder by cylinder and are really not for the novice, but more so for guys that can put a bunch of sensors on the engine and really smooth out the vibration, power, and operating temps over the entire RPM range. The average consumer normally can't do this type of engine analysis, so I would recommend not messing with those maps. Thus, if the TPS vs RPM maps are how your engine runs, the Throttle-by-wire maps are "how much you are using of that engine at a particular amount of wrist roll. So the TBW maps are where you make your adjustments to give your bike that personal feel of "acceleration" and "deceleration" ...the so called "on/off throttle response". The TBW maps allow you to add more throttle (or gas essentially) in a specific area of throttle roll (or reduce) so that you r getting the exact throttle/power from the bike that you want. Example: you ride in the rain a lot and want the power to come on more slower than normal, u can create a map for that. Example: you track your bike and you want power to come on stronger earlier and taper off smoothly in the high RPS, you can create maps for that. The TBW maps are using the TPS vs RPM maps to bring you the power you want, when you want it. Example: in the TBW maps you have adjust a 1st gear map to give you 30% throttle (gas) at 20% of wrist roll (because you want a aggressive power response {this is just a example and not suggestion}) . The TBW map tells the ECU to look at the TPS vs RPM maps to find out what amount of gas each cylinder is being delivered at 30% throttle and uses that number/power response and dictates the engine to go to 30% of engine power based on the TPS vs RPM map.
The throttle position map per gear is not a fuel map. It's how much the computer actually opens the throttle. The throttle and fueling are controlled separately by that system.
I help anytime ...once u have removed the throttle limit that is on the bike from the factory by flashing it, then you will be able to reach max speed in relation to the RPM limit ( which can also be adjusted in the software). If you are still looking for more top end u may have to adjust your sprocket gearing.
The ignition timing is set in the mapping based on the bike you have. What Bike are you talking about and what are you trying to do? I am not a mechanic, nor a pro at the Flashtune software, but I will try to help you the best I can. There are a few things you can do with the ignition timing, but generally they are just to squeak out a few (like literally 2) HP. This is normally something a tuner would do while dyno tuning a bike once the air/fuel mixture was dialed in across the RPM range.
it is important to disable the 02 sensor or can i simply just choose to run the unrestricted map and not make any further adjustments? I have a Yoshimura slip on Can. i'm very new to all of this. Also, If i disable the 02 sensor do i need to physically take it out? Great video Btw, thanks!
Great video, very well explained, thank you very much!!! I do have a question in case you can help me out. I have a 2016 Yamaha R6. I am planning to get the FTECU Flash Kit to try to improve my bike performance and my lap times (EDM championship in Costa Rica) but I have installed the Annitori Racing Quick Shifter (not the one sell by FTECU). I would like to know if both can work together. Also, I do not have a racing exhaust, my bike has the stock one. What do you think of that combination? Should I still go for the FTECU Flash Kit? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Fer Arroyo unfortunately friend u r gonna have to ask someone more knowledgeable about the R6. I wish I could help u but I am afraid that I have no experience with the R6 engine and it's characteristics. I would try the R6 Forum those people on the forums have way more knowledge than I do... Have a blessed day.
Emre 600rr ... unfortunately, I don't have an RR so there isn't a whole lot I can do for you because I would be speaking without experience, which is not too wise and probably not very helpful. I did make a follow up video about fine turning your throttle , but again that video is specific to the 2009 R1. The basic idea and process might be helpful to u though because it should be the same for the CBR.
Emre600rr definitely look into making a video for flash tuning for your 1000rr.. I just bought a 2017 cbr1000rr myself and I'm also looking into flash tuning.
Sorry for the delayed response. I am no expert on this stuff, but this is my best guess. The two separate map sets you are referring to are both fueling maps which adjust the fuel mixture based on readings the ecu is getting from (big guess here) the sensors in the exhaust ports in relation to both the TPS and the RPM. I have no clue why there are 2 separate sets of maps. I do know that I have the active tuner and it has made changes to the TPS VS RPM maps, I believe. Most of my work has been specifically in the Throttle-by-wire maps. I dont have any high tech machinery/sensors to feel comfortable enough to make any changes in either of the maps sets you are talking about. Those maps would be fine tuned by someone who has your bike on a dyno and is watching the fueling % as the bike is making dyno runs. After a few dyno runs, my guess is, they could use those maps to dial in the air to fuel ratios at certain RPM and Throttle percentages. The reason I went with the active tune was so I did not have to get my bikes fuel adjusted via a dyno tune. In all honesty I did NOT need the active tune either. I believe the FTECU unrestricted maps (provide you pick the correct one for your bike and exhaust setup), should be safe for any riding condition. The only thing you really need to adjust, to get your bike to respond to your throttle input the way you want her to, are the Throttle by wire maps. Sorry I cant be of more help.
You mentioned 4 maps I assume 1 map for each cylinder .. you didn't change 4 completely different maps.. Also you mentioned full Throttle ..?? I guess if you have drive by wire the computer actually closes your throttle 20% as opposed to reducing fuel deliver by 20% I have an FZ-07 mechanical throttle not sure if it could be reduced like a drive by wire is reduced.. Good Video but you never even mentioned ignition timing .. I also like the stock engine braking fuel shut off that is ..
Yes, There are 4 fueling maps. One separate map for each cylinder and they are different for each cylinder, thus the fueling offset I spoke about. I have made very small adjustments to these maps, but made sure that my adjustments did not change the basic fueling for each specific cylinder. Not sure what you mean by the statement "Also you mentioned full Throttle ..?? " The 2009 US R1 comes with a restricted throttle from the factory. Meaning when your roll the throttle (roll ur wrist) to 100% throttle the engine was only seeing 80%throttle. This is the ECU limiting how the engine is responding to throttle input. Once you flash the ecu, you change the Throttle by wire maps for all six gears so 100% roll on equates to 100% throttle. I am not sure how the FZ-07 ECU handle throttle input. I also did ot mention engine timing because I didn't feel the need to mess with the factory settings. If I were to have my 09 dyno turned I am sure they would make some small adjustments here to get a more complete burn. I want to smooth out the throttle and get rid of the 5000 RPM dead spot and accomplished both.
Fantastic video. Have just bought the Velox Racing Flash Kit and am waiting for it to arrive. I've got a 2017 FZ 07. I know they come from the factory running lean and new exhaust (M4 on the way) plus new Airbox & Filter (DNA Stage 2) will only make this worse. How do you adjust the fuel mixture or can you? Any help would be great & Thanks for your time.
Glen Thomas ... Unfortunately I don't know anything about the vortex kit, but if it is anything like the FTC software there are specific fueling maps that allow u to make any adjustments u want. There is also an option to download fueling maps from gagets like the Power comamander, even though that software makes those thing obsolete. The best option is to have her Dyno tuned once u have all the upgrades installed. They will dial in the fueling during the tune.
Almost positive it uses the same software you were displaying. Check out Jake the Garden Snake video on ECU Flash Kit. That's where I got the idea to get one. Would you make it run richer just through the fuel maps? Pretty good with the old mechanical stuff (56 years old) but this electronic stuff is new. Just trying to get as much info as possible. Thx for any help you can give me.
I would like to be able to answer that one completely but I am not 100% positive. I can tell you that the FTC TPS vs RPM notes (the notes that are attached to those specific maps) state that by increasing the number in each cell in one of these maps (again there is a map for each specific cylinder) you are adding fuel to that cell (which equates to adding gas in that cylinder at that RPM compared to the throttle position). IT also states that by making the number smaller in a specific cell, you are reducing fuel. Hope that helped.
Without the autotune, which is primarily for air to fuel ratios, u are adjusting the areas in the RPM range/wrist roll that u feel needs a little more or has too much. Really most folks go for the FlashTune setup for the adjustability because they want to get rid of the on/off throttle neck snap that the R1 has. So for me, I added some very small amounts of fuel in the zero column from 4500 RPM and down to reduce the engine, and then made some other small changes in the throttle on columns to make the roll on throttle more smoother...it all depends on what u want. Having it Dyno tuned will also allow for air/fuel adjustments, along with timing changes, to allow for max power thru out the band.
Are there pre-loaded maps in this software according to what exhaust you'd use? How do I know what map I need to select? I just did CAT delete and installed Akrapovic Link Pipe and also Akrapovic Slip-on. I know I have to flash the ECM because bike is running lean now. My bike is MT-10 2018. On Harley's, I used FuelPack and it already maps there that I could choose according to what exhaust and filters I've got installed.
There are some preloaded maps from Flash Tune, Graves, other race teams, and some of the actual individual users, depending on your bike. The biggest concern is your bike running lean because once u put aftermarket pipes air flows much better. The best option is getting the Autoturner which perfects the air/fuel mixture. This option however is not available for all bikes.
Do these unrestricted maps reflect the absent of the bike manufacturers change in the emission standard they have to abide by? If I flash my bike with one of these unrestricted maps will my bike run richer and not leaner? Thus eliminating a twitchy throttle and cooler bike?
Not sure what bike you have, but flashing your ECU will change a ton of items, but it all depends on your mods. If you remove your "Cat" then your bike will run lean because you have freed up exhaust flow, and same holds true for a better Muffler/Slip-on. Once you do this, it is better to flash your ECU because FlashTunes Maps are for bikes with exhaust mods and they balance out fueling. The unrestricted maps also change the top end restrictions on the R1 Full Throttle capabilities, but I am not sure about other bike...sorry. The touchy throttle will be improved, but not perfect. That's why I made this video. The throttle maps can be adjusted further to get your bike to perform precisely how you want it, in terms of on/off throttle, but you will need the FlashTune setup. Now, with all that said, you will be close to good and balance fueling, but it will not be perfect in all conditions. This is why I opted for the Active Tune sensor and am very pleased. Have a blessed day my man...La
Is the quick shifter feature available in the regular bikeside kit? Or were you required to pay for an additional license for that feature? I know I'll have to purchase the quick shifter harness and sensor separately.
Thank you for sharing. Yesterday i have flashed an unrestricted map from FT for my 2010 R1, it's surprising how the bike wakes up even if it is completely stock. Is it possible to get the fuel cut off disable only for the 1-2-3 gear .
I don't think u can u the fuel cut off for specific gears, but u can do one better. Make the fuel cut off True, then use the Throttle by Wire maps for each specific gear to dial in the engine breaking you want for each gear at each RPM. It's actually quite easy.
I do not believe so. You can go to the FTECU website and they show all the bikes the software is available for. However, I believe there are free software versions (not Flashtune stuff) for the KTM. My brother has one of those silly adventure bike things...which is clearly not an R1 HAHAHAHA, and he has mentioned something about it.
I think you can but you would have to go to FlashTunes Website to see if they have a flash kit for it. If they dont then you will probably need to have someone do it and they will probably use a power commander.
Sean Johnson ...If you like having complete control over the adjustability of your bike and being able to fine turn it to precisely how you want it, then utilizing this prigram (getting the harness) is the way to go. I just reflashed my bike last night, then snuck out this morning (so it didn't expose anyone to my radiation ) and went for a ride and my bike is running amazingly. I adjusted the on/off throttle via the throttle mapping and added some mid-range fueling for more power there and she is even better than before. That continual adjustment is what you get having the program, which allows you to personalize your bike to you. And if you ride tracks you can have different imiges for different tracks just like GP. All of that make this the best upgrade you can ever do because you can constantly make adjustments to find your perfection.
Sean Johnson ...to send your ECU out I think the going rate is around $200 + shipping both ways (if u r in the US) plus the worry that something might happen to your ECU during shipping. You can get the FlashTune Bikeside harness (that's what I got) for around $365.00 (US). So for me, the extra $150, give or take a few dollars, was way worth all the added flexibility I got.
From my experience, I sent out my ECU to be flashed by SBU and it didn't do the job as I wanted it and I had several complaints. They told me to send it back and the did some adjusting. When I got the ECU back it was even worse. They told me there must be something wrong with my bike because the idle was at 2400 and they couldn't get it to drop down. this was after spending around $230. I bought a TBR tuner and did some fuel mapping adjustments and got it to a tolerable ride but not what it should be for the type of bike it is. Another $220 plus a tone of time. I finally bought the Bike side harness from FTecu for $360 and am in the process of dialing in my bike. The weather temperature and where I ride does seem to make the tune fluctuate in performance. I like the option of doing what I want to the bike at will versus sending it off to have it changed again! The other plus side is making changes to the bike require making changes to the setup which would require more sending it off or living with the change and potential loss in performance. IE I changed the rear sprocket from 47T to 49T and its a livable change but it makes the miles go up on the bike faster than actual miles traveled and throws off the speedo. You can buy a speedo healer to correct it but with the FTecu it can be adjusted. I changed the front from 17 to 15 on a different date and again I would have to send it out or just live with the change to the speedometer and miles. in short, well worth the investment. just my 2cents. ride safe!
I bought the same kit as you but what would I need to use for the kit be able to be connected to different bikes? Or do I have to keep buying the kit for every bike until I have all of them 😂 just like Pokémon gotta buy them all
I am La dam that’s a lot but worth it I think. I’m trying to flash bikes at my job in Los Angeles for people that don’t want to ship there ECU to other states thanks for answering quickly
Cylinders 2 & 3 have Cylinders on both sides transferring heat, Cylinders 1 & 4 only have Cylinders on one side transferring heat so obviously the inner Cylinders will get hotter and they do engineer them to cool equally, by fueling them a litter richer.
Very helpful. I plan on getting the FlashTune harness. I really like what you are doing with your maps to smooth out the throttle and other adjustments. Are you sharing on FlashTune the file you are currently running on your bike. I have a 2017 R6 and would like to make simular changes to my bikes ecu using your file as reference. Would you be able to give me some advice on how I can make your file work on a 2017 R6? Or any surggestions on a simular image compared to yours thats shared on FlashTune that’s for a 2017 R6? Any help would be appreciated.
ytmikeny ... I'm actually planning on making a few more adjustments, I've just made some and it's made kind of a big difference. And yes...absolutely I will help you with your R6 files and we'll get your bike running precisely how you want it. Talk to ya soon...La
ytmikeny ...I haven't looked at any of the R6 files. I will try to do that later today if I get a chance. I would also join the R6 forums and ask around there. My guess is someone has already done some extensive work on the files.
I am La.. Yeah, I’ve been on the R6 forums, I’ll have to do a little more research there and dig deeper, I haven’t found anything with actual files or suggestion on any files for the 2017 R6. I’m assuming it may have to do with the bike being relatively new. The restrictions (speed limit, temperature, ais, o2 senor, exup, engine breaking etc.) seem relatively easy to adjust/set, but adjustments to the maps are more difficult, as I am looking for the smoother throttle response with the add power across the rpm and throttle position. I’m installing a hindle full exhaust and plan on ordering the Flash Tune harness.
ytmikeny ... because ur bike is so new, make sure they (FlashTune) has the software for your specific bike then I can walk u thru the throttle maps for each gear and show u where I made my adjustments. Hell I will probably make a detailed video specifically about the throttle maps, because they are the only ones that r important for smoothing on/off throttle.
I dont believe so, but I am not really sure so dont trust me K. I do believe that race fuel might run hotter, so you will need to keep a close eye on your engine temps.
... correct. Provided FlashTune makes a harness for your bike this does away with the need for a PC. I will say that not many Dyno shops work with the FlashTune software so air to fuel mixtures might be slightly off, but that is not really a huge deal because the maps the software comes with are good and safe... Meaning Rich. Having the customizability is what makes this software so fantastic.
You can use the software to flash as many ECUs you want. However, each ecu will need a separate FlashTune subscription/license. You can get more info on this from Flashtunes website.
Open the ECT vs RPM map. The numbers at the top of that chart represent the temperature of your bike and the numbers on the left column represent the engine RPM. The numbers in the boxes in the chart itself that correspond to the top Temp and the left side RPM are the actual RPM that you bike will idle at, based on the temperature listed on the top row. I know it is confusing because there are only double digits but just add two "00" to the numbers in each box on the grid. So for example, at 77 degs and 1200 RPM your bike will idle at 16(00) or 1600 RPM, see how that works (assuming u r looking at the stock map). So at 121.6 deg and 1900 RPM your bike will drop back down to 13 of 1300 RPM. If you want your bike to idle above 1300 RPM you will need to change the number in the 121.6 temp range and higher because this is the normal operating temperature, and above 1950 RPM (again referencing the left RPM column). Hope that helps.
So all I've to do is order a bike side harness for my Yamaha r1 2011 and install the ft ecu software and then play with it ? is it actually that easy ?
Tariq Rahim ... Is what that easy? If you are looking to get rid of that jumpy throttle, yes... It is absolutely that easy... And you will be amazed. I can walk you through it and when we're done you will have a silky smooth throttle and an extremely enjoyable riding bike.
Also...i know my vids are sometime boring...well, probable all the time boring, but take a look at my other video specifically about fixing the R1 jerky throttle. I am telling you bro that yes it is that easy, and yes you will be amazed, and yes your throttle will be amazing, and yes I will walk you through it if you need help. Have a blessed day and keep her up right...La
Bro you should be a guru. The way you explain stuff is very soothing. Rarely anyone explains stuff like this on youtube. I have a ktm duke 390 2017 and i want to flash its ecu, what are your suggestions?
my man, unfortunately I don't know a lot about the KTM's. I would suggest joining a KTM forum and start going through all their treads. Someone has more than likely gone thru what you want to do and those folks would be the best to ask. Have a blessed day Bro...La
I got my Harness from Graves. If u r a member of the R1 forum (assume u have an R1) there is a code that gives u 10% off. It (the harness) is so worth it bud. If u have any more questions ask away....La
I have a r6s and I wanna adjust the performance and I wanna get the exhaust to do some insane popping/backfire while shifting up and down,what do you suggest
I reckon if you were smart enough you could retune a 4 stroke to act like a 2 stroke!!.....I miss the 2 stroke powerband....wonder if anyone's done this?
Total trash ECU flash software. Woolrich has 10x the tune-ability. Sorry I went with this BS version. Research your purchase! I am a confirmed FTECU customer.. totally not happy with my purchase after getting flashed with Woolrich. Wanted blockoff plate warning engine light fixed and o2 sensor engine light fixed, and was told you are out of luck unless you have the right motorcycle on our list. You sell a $400 product that you do not upgrade/fix? Says it all!
What bike do you have? On my R1, I don't have any problem with the smog block off plates or the O2 sensor. I now have the autotune O2 sensor and it works perfectly. Not sure how Woolrich has 10x the tune-ability, when there is only so much that can be tuned...fueling and timing...thats it.
A COMMENT I MADE THAT MIGHT HELP OTHERS THAT WANT TO SMOOTH OUT ON/OFF THROTTLE AND ENGINE BREAKING:....while trying to help ytmikeny (see below comments). "So I had a chance to take a quick look at the Throttle By Wire Maps for your R6. Not sure why there are so many maps (13???) for each mode when you only have 6 gears. Maybe u know? (Edited: I have since found out that there are so many maps to allow you to personalize a ton of maps for each mode and each gear...cool for sure) Anyway, once u figure that out, the throttle control looks to be the same type of throttle % roll on / to amount of gas the engine is getting at any given time. To clarify, the number in each cell in these maps represent the amount of fuel the ECU is sending to the engine based on the throttle position and the RPMs. So this is where u will want to make most of your adjustments to get your bike to feel smoother, including the reduction of engine breaking (oh and yes, turn on "disable engine decel" by making it read true. We do this because we want the ECU to continue providing fuel to the engine, even in decel, if only ever so slightly, as this reduces engine breaking. No fuel equates to engine breaking. A little fuel equates to less engine breaking, the question u have to decide is how much engine breaking do u want because it is all of function of the amount of fuel in each cell in the "Throttle by wire" maps. I chose to only modify the Standard maps and left the other modes (A and B) alone (they are from the TAD Image). So, where to start? In the upper left portion of each of the maps (and again find out why there are 13 maps for each mode), assuming u r adjusting the maps in the Standard mode, start making small adjustments to the cells in the RPM ranges Below 6000 RPM and above 1500 RPM (or what ever your bike is set to idle at) and in the throttle % cells from 0 to 10-12%. U will have to fiddle around with the actual RPM range area (you may have to adjust higher than 6000 RPM) as I am not sure about the R6's power band. The R1 grunts with power from the get go. Regardless, the ideas is to smooth out the numbers in small increasing increments in each of the cells from 0% Throttle to 12% Throttle so as u roll on the throttle the bike doesn't get too much fuel too early. I analysed the amount of change for each cell for each RPM range and made adjustments that I thought were pretty balanced and linear from about 1500 RPMs up to about 6500 RPMs in the cells from 0% throttle to around 12% throttle. Now, for the off throttle engine breaking, the adjustments are in the lower Throttle% ranges, but in the slightly higher RPMs (say 5000-9000 RPMs and less than 10% throttle) you would add small amounts of fuel to the low throttle ranges (in the higher RPMs) in a decreasing but balanced fashion so the bike is getting slightly more fuel, than the stock values, as you slow down/come off throttle and you reduce the % of fuel as you reduce throttle, say from 8% throttle down to 0% throttle. By adding a little more fuel, it will decrease the engine breaking and allow for a smoother "Back on" throttle when you roll back on because the engine is getting more gas to start with as u twist your writs. BE ADVISED THAT "ALL" THE ADJUSTMENTS I AM TALKING ABOUT ARE SMALL AMOUNTS OF FUEL ADJUSTMENTS IN THE RANGE OF .2% of 1%, SO LESS THAN A HALF OF A PERCENTAGE POINT. Start with very small adjustments and then from there add or adjust until you get her perfect. Damn u, now I want to go ride. Let me know when u have adjusted some maps and we can figure out a way to shared them and I will walk u thru this process. Be good and kind bro. Talk to ya soon...La"
mate if i live in same country, i would find you to shake ur hand, i learnt heaps from ur vids thank u...
Good shit man thank you. Doin work four years later
This video made this process much more enjoyable. Thank you
Glad to hear it!
Best video I've ever seen on this subject!!!
Thanks for this! I just got the software setup and could tell a huge difference with just the regular "unrestricted" map for my bike (Yamaha MT07). The throttle was still a little jumpy for those on/off transitions and I have a pretty good idea of what I need to do to smooth it out even more now.
Thank you. Need more videos like this.
Thank you for taking the time to make this!
thank you bro...let me know if you have any questions. I am no pro but I might be able to help...La
Absolutely amazing, thank you so much for sharing!
Great video very clear explanation and yeah I agree with Creedmoor extra fuel for inner or rear cylinders to keep them cooler rather than extra power....keep up the good work !!
Thanks for watching!
Fuel offsets are developed based on cylinder design effects such as thermal transfer differences due to cylinder position, coolant flow characteristics around the subject cylinder, and other such differences between the cylinders etc. However, intake track and head temperature affect atomization which can affect combustion time and flame front geometry and how it changes during and after mixture ignition. On a development engine we would have matched O2 sensors, one for each Header pipe.
Naw man good vid. I have a mt09 with power vision 3 so it a little easier for me. I write tunes with dynojet software and copy to the pv3 and flash to bike. Still new to it so this vid was super helpful
Fueling Is different because. Cylinder 2 and 3 run hotter so more fuel to help cool them down
agree, for sure.
yeah, that the same like they did with carburetors powered engines, they used bigger main jets for the inner cylinders
Dont just randomly adjust the fuel maps because they look choppy. On cars thats not a horrible idea done sparingly, but motos have such a wide rpm range, you end up with harmonics at certain RPM intervals that cause the bike to richen up due to lack of air and will make the map look choppy in those areas. The harmonics are the sound waves bouncing off the intake valves and and causing air to be pushed back out the intake runners. If you know about ram tuning effect with velocity stacks this will make sense to you, but that tuning can only be right in one spot which is why newer stuff has the variable velocity stacks to deal with it. Still, there are going to be spots where those two lengths of stack become 180 degrees out of phase to the incoming air and stalls or reverses airflow till you get out of that spot.
that is some good stuff bro
Awesome, informative, and educational video. Thanks bro.
Moto Marzzz ... Thank u bro. If u have any questions... I will try to answer them. Have a blessed day... La
I am La thanks my dude... have a blessed day as well. I'm just trying to educate myself in tuning motorcycles. It seems pretty easy now that you've explained the basics and software in detail.
Moto Marzzz ... For sure. How to get the Moto to feel like u want it, at least for Yamis is in the Throttle by wire maps. Fueling and Dyno tuning is a little more involved but the basic "on/off throttle smoothness can be manipulated as u see fit. Good luck bro... La
My like makes you 1000🎉
You, my friend, are pretty much the coolest person I have met in 999 people.
i know this video is old but i really appreciate it. very informative. i just got a flashtune bench side kit for my 09 R6. completely new bike. well worth it money.
Let me know if you need help bro
Also read my first comment for the video it deals specifically with R6s
@@IamLaR1 i will definitely let you know if i need help. i notice that there is 3 maps i can pick in the de restricted folder 2 us and one generic. whats the difference between these three maps
@@swingdaddy2126 ...depending on what region you live in, you want to use those maps to flash your ECU. THen from there you can begin slowly making adjustments to make your bike yours.
Excellent video, learnt loads, please continue making more. Subbed
thank you so much for commenting. Have a blessed walk.
Great video... nice moves as well :)
HaHa...thanks you Bro. Have a blessed day
great detailed video
great work
im writing a similar program my self that read/write the ecu for a small yamaha bike. the problem is that the bike doesnt have afr or lamda sensor and i dont know how to tune it. plus the bike uses speed density not tps for engine load
Awesome video intro 😂❤️
Can I flash same file on two identical bikes? Or I need to make slight adjustments?
U can flash the same file as long as they are the same year/model bike, as you stated. You will need two separate subscriptions because each ECU has a different number and has to be registered on the Flashtune servers. But once you have that, u should be good to go.
Great job, bro!!!
Subbed 4 u too.
Awesome! Thank you!
I have the Same Name like you here in Thailand. 😏LA
they dont seem to support my year. I have a 2009 honda cbr1000rr, stock headers, full length Danmoto sc59. IS there a kit that will work with my bike? I can find a data link cable to a PC but what software should I use? Im hoping to find a popular one that Honda guys use with preset tunes like youre showing us there.
Unfortunately I only have experience is Flashtune. I wish I could help you. God bless.
wow thanks man that a great video. I am getting my tuning kit for my 2019 ZX6R very soon. I am looking forward to really making the throttle smoother. I hate engine braking also. So you can turn off the engine braking on the ECU Modules taps right? I also have a factory quick shifter, do I have to do anything special if I flash the unrestricted ECU flash? Thanks I really don't want blow my motor up or make it worst.
My man u caught me on the tube...nice. The new flashes have more maps, so dont let that confuse u. It is the same principal as I showed in my video. Everything u will need to do to smooth out ur throttle is done in the Throttle-by-wire maps. You will not have to touch any other maps, including your quick shifter timing. You just have to make sure u r aware of what maps are activated when you are in each gear. My 2016 R1 uses 0 map for Neutral, Map 1 for 1st gear, Map 2 for 2nd, and map 3 for 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th. Once u know this, then you know what maps you need to adjust. U can even assign individual maps for each gear if u want. If you have any questions just come back. Word to the wise...make very very small changes in the cells of the maps, ride the bike, then make more very very small changes as needed.
I am La awesome. I am sure I will have more questions once I get playing with it.
Hi, would you please to recommend to who or where the Tuners teach online courses to Flash Ecu as Ftecu Woolich Software you re using ? Thanks you
Unfortunately there are none that I know of. I can do my best to try to help you or you might be able to go to the FT ECU Website and visit their forums.
I wonder if that fuel offset is to compensate for the uneven cross plane firing.
My guess is that it has something to due with the engine cooling, but you may be correct.
Great Vid, thanks for the info. Do you have a Auto Tunner video, with a How to on the Active Tune?
roadtrip942 ... unfortunately I don't because the Auto Turner is not available for my year bike(2009).
Cam this work for Honda bikes
it depends on which bike. got to their website and see it your bike is there.
I have an r3, how does it plug in? In the flash tune tut the guy just plugs it in but in the picture theres a 2nd harness with 4 pins that the tut vid didnt go over.
It is kind of a pain in the ass. It plugs in at the harness and you have to be very careful with the plastic pins.
Hey brother, great and informative video. Just a quick question. What's your experience with the auto tuner and how does it work? Do you flash a map then just let the auto tuner do its thing, or do you just install the auto tuner and let it go without installing a map?
For reference, MT10 with full akropovic. Thanks man! Much love.
I actually recently got an Autoturner/Activetune for my 2016 R1 and yes u r correct. U flash the bike as normal and make the adjustments u want to ur Throttle by Wire maps, so that ur on/off throttle feels how u like it. To get the Autoturner to work, the FTECU software will have to be upgraded, so that it recognizes the Autoturner and can receive inputs from the new sensor. The whole activetune thing works in two ways, once the Autoturner is recognized by the software. Firstly, there is a setting in the software that u turn on and the exhaust sensor (the autotune sensor) will read the exhaust, just like the standard/stock O2 sensor does, and then it sends signals to the ECU to make adjustments to the fueling "on the run" to try to keep ur bike at the ideal air to fuel ratios. This is the same thing the stock O2 sensors do, but the FTECU one apparently takes more reading per second and is more sensitive, so I guess. These fueling adjustments, while riding, that the sensor tells the ECU to make are only saved while there is power to the ECU and this is important. With the autotune turned on and while u are riding and going thru the RPM ranges the sensor is constantly making adjustments and these adjustments will be lost once u turn the key off on ur bike. That is the first way this puppy works. The second way the Autoturner works is that u can save all the adjustments that the Autoturner made during your ride as long as you leave the key on ( keep power to the ECU). U can kill the engine, but u need to leave the key on. Once you are ready to save the fueling adjustments, u are gonna need the bike side harness and your computer. Important...for this to work u need the bike side harness. With ur PC ( I have a laptop) hooked up to the bike and the power still on, you go thru the steps of saving all the fueling adjustments and then re-flashing your ECU. Why would u want to do this? In theory, each time you save fueling adjustments, your active turner will have less work to do the next time u ride. Hope that helped playa...La
@@IamLaR1 thank you so much for the detailed reply. This would make a pretty solid video as well. I'm going to order the FTEcu and auto tuner tomorrow. Are there any websites that you receive a kick back from that I should order from? Or just straight from ftecu? You're one of the main reasons I'm buying this and I'd like to make sure you're recognized.
@@Shifty12B ... No worries... No kickback, but thanks. Just remember that the Active tune needs the bike side harness and not the desktop adapter because u have to keep power to the ECU. I am planning on making a video for the 2016 R1 and the reason there are so many maps that are note being use and this will also include the Active Tune "how to". Let me know if u have anymore questions... La
@@IamLaR1 thanks again. Got the bike side harness in the cart!
@@Shifty12B ... Once u download the software, u can go in and look at my maps (under users maps...showed this step in the video) and compare them to the "stock" maps and see where/how much I have changed them to get a smooth throttle, so u can get a feel for how much changing is needed and it is not a lot. For my 09 all my work is done in the Throttle by Wire "standard mode" maps. I recognize u have a different bike, but it might help... Else just comeback here a fire questions off. Be good and be kind bro... La
where can i find documentation for this software? i searched their site but all i c is pin install info
Unfortunately I do not think they have any type of manual available. So you have to learn this stuff on your own which kinda sucks. I will help you as much as I can. Is there something specific you are having issues with?
@@IamLaR1 I purchased a map from a tuner and its powerful but its over heating the bike in traffic so I was trying to see how to remedy the problem
Something I don't understand: In the Fuel/TPS vs RPM maps you adjust the amount of fuel PER CYLINDER, and then in the Throttle-by-wire maps you adjust the amount of fuel PER GEAR. How do these maps affect or relate to each other?
I am no expert but this is my take...the TPS vs RPM maps are used to fine tune the engine specifically cylinder by cylinder and are really not for the novice, but more so for guys that can put a bunch of sensors on the engine and really smooth out the vibration, power, and operating temps over the entire RPM range. The average consumer normally can't do this type of engine analysis, so I would recommend not messing with those maps. Thus, if the TPS vs RPM maps are how your engine runs, the Throttle-by-wire maps are "how much you are using of that engine at a particular amount of wrist roll. So the TBW maps are where you make your adjustments to give your bike that personal feel of "acceleration" and "deceleration" ...the so called "on/off throttle response". The TBW maps allow you to add more throttle (or gas essentially) in a specific area of throttle roll (or reduce) so that you r getting the exact throttle/power from the bike that you want. Example: you ride in the rain a lot and want the power to come on more slower than normal, u can create a map for that. Example: you track your bike and you want power to come on stronger earlier and taper off smoothly in the high RPS, you can create maps for that. The TBW maps are using the TPS vs RPM maps to bring you the power you want, when you want it. Example: in the TBW maps you have adjust a 1st gear map to give you 30% throttle (gas) at 20% of wrist roll (because you want a aggressive power response {this is just a example and not suggestion}) . The TBW map tells the ECU to look at the TPS vs RPM maps to find out what amount of gas each cylinder is being delivered at 30% throttle and uses that number/power response and dictates the engine to go to 30% of engine power based on the TPS vs RPM map.
@@IamLaR1 Makes sense, cool thanks!
The throttle position map per gear is not a fuel map. It's how much the computer actually opens the throttle. The throttle and fueling are controlled separately by that system.
If my bike is limited to 299 km/h (186 mph) how to make them unlimited? (Able to hit 300+)
I help anytime ...once u have removed the throttle limit that is on the bike from the factory by flashing it, then you will be able to reach max speed in relation to the RPM limit ( which can also be adjusted in the software). If you are still looking for more top end u may have to adjust your sprocket gearing.
Pls explain how to remap ignition timing
The ignition timing is set in the mapping based on the bike you have. What Bike are you talking about and what are you trying to do? I am not a mechanic, nor a pro at the Flashtune software, but I will try to help you the best I can. There are a few things you can do with the ignition timing, but generally they are just to squeak out a few (like literally 2) HP. This is normally something a tuner would do while dyno tuning a bike once the air/fuel mixture was dialed in across the RPM range.
it is important to disable the 02 sensor or can i simply just choose to run the unrestricted map and not make any further adjustments? I have a Yoshimura slip on Can. i'm very new to all of this. Also, If i disable the 02 sensor do i need to physically take it out? Great video Btw, thanks!
You can run the unrestricted maps and not disabled the O2 and u should be fine.
Great video, very well explained, thank you very much!!! I do have a question in case you can help me out. I have a 2016 Yamaha R6. I am planning to get the FTECU Flash Kit to try to improve my bike performance and my lap times (EDM championship in Costa Rica) but I have installed the Annitori Racing Quick Shifter (not the one sell by FTECU). I would like to know if both can work together. Also, I do not have a racing exhaust, my bike has the stock one.
What do you think of that combination? Should I still go for the FTECU Flash Kit? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Fer Arroyo unfortunately friend u r gonna have to ask someone more knowledgeable about the R6. I wish I could help u but I am afraid that I have no experience with the R6 engine and it's characteristics. I would try the R6 Forum those people on the forums have way more knowledge than I do... Have a blessed day.
I am La Thank you very much for your reply. I will take your advice 👍
awesome video mate.. could u explain for new 1000rr too ? im thinkin to buy that but not sure for that... could u give me some feedback about it :)
Emre 600rr ... unfortunately, I don't have an RR so there isn't a whole lot I can do for you because I would be speaking without experience, which is not too wise and probably not very helpful. I did make a follow up video about fine turning your throttle , but again that video is specific to the 2009 R1. The basic idea and process might be helpful to u though because it should be the same for the CBR.
Emre600rr definitely look into making a video for flash tuning for your 1000rr.. I just bought a 2017 cbr1000rr myself and I'm also looking into flash tuning.
Looong time since you uploaded this video, hope you still remember. What the difference on the fuel maps between tps vs rpm and map vs rpm?
Sorry for the delayed response. I am no expert on this stuff, but this is my best guess. The two separate map sets you are referring to are both fueling maps which adjust the fuel mixture based on readings the ecu is getting from (big guess here) the sensors in the exhaust ports in relation to both the TPS and the RPM. I have no clue why there are 2 separate sets of maps. I do know that I have the active tuner and it has made changes to the TPS VS RPM maps, I believe. Most of my work has been specifically in the Throttle-by-wire maps. I dont have any high tech machinery/sensors to feel comfortable enough to make any changes in either of the maps sets you are talking about. Those maps would be fine tuned by someone who has your bike on a dyno and is watching the fueling % as the bike is making dyno runs. After a few dyno runs, my guess is, they could use those maps to dial in the air to fuel ratios at certain RPM and Throttle percentages. The reason I went with the active tune was so I did not have to get my bikes fuel adjusted via a dyno tune. In all honesty I did NOT need the active tune either. I believe the FTECU unrestricted maps (provide you pick the correct one for your bike and exhaust setup), should be safe for any riding condition. The only thing you really need to adjust, to get your bike to respond to your throttle input the way you want her to, are the Throttle by wire maps. Sorry I cant be of more help.
@@IamLaR1 Thank you for your replay. Now that I think about it, you are right, you need some special equipment to do any fuel changes. Thanks again
You mentioned 4 maps I assume 1 map for each cylinder .. you didn't change 4 completely different maps..
Also you mentioned full Throttle ..?? I guess if you have drive by wire the computer actually closes your throttle 20% as opposed to reducing fuel deliver by 20% I have an FZ-07 mechanical throttle not sure if it could be reduced like a drive by wire is reduced..
Good Video but you never even mentioned ignition timing .. I also like the stock engine braking fuel shut off that is ..
Yes, There are 4 fueling maps. One separate map for each cylinder and they are different for each cylinder, thus the fueling offset I spoke about. I have made very small adjustments to these maps, but made sure that my adjustments did not change the basic fueling for each specific cylinder.
Not sure what you mean by the statement "Also you mentioned full Throttle ..?? " The 2009 US R1 comes with a restricted throttle from the factory. Meaning when your roll the throttle (roll ur wrist) to 100% throttle the engine was only seeing 80%throttle. This is the ECU limiting how the engine is responding to throttle input. Once you flash the ecu, you change the Throttle by wire maps for all six gears so 100% roll on equates to 100% throttle. I am not sure how the FZ-07 ECU handle throttle input. I also did ot mention engine timing because I didn't feel the need to mess with the factory settings. If I were to have my 09 dyno turned I am sure they would make some small adjustments here to get a more complete burn. I want to smooth out the throttle and get rid of the 5000 RPM dead spot and accomplished both.
Fantastic video. Have just bought the Velox Racing Flash Kit and am waiting for it to arrive. I've got a 2017 FZ 07. I know they come from the factory running lean and new exhaust (M4 on the way) plus new Airbox & Filter (DNA Stage 2) will only make this worse. How do you adjust the fuel mixture or can you? Any help would be great & Thanks for your time.
Glen Thomas ... Unfortunately I don't know anything about the vortex kit, but if it is anything like the FTC software there are specific fueling maps that allow u to make any adjustments u want. There is also an option to download fueling maps from gagets like the Power comamander, even though that software makes those thing obsolete. The best option is to have her Dyno tuned once u have all the upgrades installed. They will dial in the fueling during the tune.
Almost positive it uses the same software you were displaying. Check out Jake the Garden Snake video on ECU Flash Kit. That's where I got the idea to get one. Would you make it run richer just through the fuel maps? Pretty good with the old mechanical stuff (56 years old) but this electronic stuff is new. Just trying to get as much info as possible. Thx for any help you can give me.
I would like to be able to answer that one completely but I am not 100% positive. I can tell you that the FTC TPS vs RPM notes (the notes that are attached to those specific maps) state that by increasing the number in each cell in one of these maps (again there is a map for each specific cylinder) you are adding fuel to that cell (which equates to adding gas in that cylinder at that RPM compared to the throttle position). IT also states that by making the number smaller in a specific cell, you are reducing fuel. Hope that helped.
I am La Thanks Man. That sounds exactly like you're making it richer via the maps. Can't waiting to get mine!
Bro if u live in LA lmk I need help with this bad lmaoo
what seems to be the issues you are having.
@@IamLaR1 no issues yet I just don’t know if I should ecu flash with a pro or get an ft ecu
How do you know what areas need adjusting? You take it for a ride and does it datalog so youre able to find the problem areas?
Without the autotune, which is primarily for air to fuel ratios, u are adjusting the areas in the RPM range/wrist roll that u feel needs a little more or has too much. Really most folks go for the FlashTune setup for the adjustability because they want to get rid of the on/off throttle neck snap that the R1 has. So for me, I added some very small amounts of fuel in the zero column from 4500 RPM and down to reduce the engine, and then made some other small changes in the throttle on columns to make the roll on throttle more smoother...it all depends on what u want. Having it Dyno tuned will also allow for air/fuel adjustments, along with timing changes, to allow for max power thru out the band.
Are there pre-loaded maps in this software according to what exhaust you'd use? How do I know what map I need to select? I just did CAT delete and installed Akrapovic Link Pipe and also Akrapovic Slip-on. I know I have to flash the ECM because bike is running lean now. My bike is MT-10 2018.
On Harley's, I used FuelPack and it already maps there that I could choose according to what exhaust and filters I've got installed.
There are some preloaded maps from Flash Tune, Graves, other race teams, and some of the actual individual users, depending on your bike. The biggest concern is your bike running lean because once u put aftermarket pipes air flows much better. The best option is getting the Autoturner which perfects the air/fuel mixture. This option however is not available for all bikes.
@@IamLaR1 appreciate quick reply brother!
Do these unrestricted maps reflect the absent of the bike manufacturers change in the emission standard they have to abide by? If I flash my bike with one of these unrestricted maps will my bike run richer and not leaner? Thus eliminating a twitchy throttle and cooler bike?
Not sure what bike you have, but flashing your ECU will change a ton of items, but it all depends on your mods. If you remove your "Cat" then your bike will run lean because you have freed up exhaust flow, and same holds true for a better Muffler/Slip-on. Once you do this, it is better to flash your ECU because FlashTunes Maps are for bikes with exhaust mods and they balance out fueling. The unrestricted maps also change the top end restrictions on the R1 Full Throttle capabilities, but I am not sure about other bike...sorry. The touchy throttle will be improved, but not perfect. That's why I made this video. The throttle maps can be adjusted further to get your bike to perform precisely how you want it, in terms of on/off throttle, but you will need the FlashTune setup. Now, with all that said, you will be close to good and balance fueling, but it will not be perfect in all conditions. This is why I opted for the Active Tune sensor and am very pleased. Have a blessed day my man...La
Is the quick shifter feature available in the regular bikeside kit? Or were you required to pay for an additional license for that feature? I know I'll have to purchase the quick shifter harness and sensor separately.
No unfortunately u need to buy the quick shifter harness along with the flashtune set up.
Thank you for sharing. Yesterday i have flashed an unrestricted map from FT for my 2010 R1, it's surprising how the bike wakes up even if it is completely stock. Is it possible to get the fuel cut off disable only for the 1-2-3 gear .
I don't think u can u the fuel cut off for specific gears, but u can do one better. Make the fuel cut off True, then use the Throttle by Wire maps for each specific gear to dial in the engine breaking you want for each gear at each RPM. It's actually quite easy.
Thank you for the fast answer. I will try what you said but i'm not sure to be able without more details.
can you use it for cars?
Flashing car ECUs is possible, but not with Flashtunes stuff. It is specifically for bikes.
Do you know if this software will work with KTM
I do not believe so. You can go to the FTECU website and they show all the bikes the software is available for. However, I believe there are free software versions (not Flashtune stuff) for the KTM. My brother has one of those silly adventure bike things...which is clearly not an R1 HAHAHAHA, and he has mentioned something about it.
Can you flash ecu for a 06 yamaha r6r
I think you can but you would have to go to FlashTunes Website to see if they have a flash kit for it. If they dont then you will probably need to have someone do it and they will probably use a power commander.
can I readed by ktag and tuning roms by FT ECU ??
I am not sure you can. As far as I know, Flashtune is strictly for motorcycle ECUs.
In your opinion would it be worth it to just get the refresh or flash yourself?
Sean Johnson ...If you like having complete control over the adjustability of your bike and being able to fine turn it to precisely how you want it, then utilizing this prigram (getting the harness) is the way to go. I just reflashed my bike last night, then snuck out this morning (so it didn't expose anyone to my radiation ) and went for a ride and my bike is running amazingly. I adjusted the on/off throttle via the throttle mapping and added some mid-range fueling for more power there and she is even better than before. That continual adjustment is what you get having the program, which allows you to personalize your bike to you. And if you ride tracks you can have different imiges for different tracks just like GP. All of that make this the best upgrade you can ever do because you can constantly make adjustments to find your perfection.
I am La cost wise was it more expensive to get your own flash tune?
Sean Johnson ...to send your ECU out I think the going rate is around $200 + shipping both ways (if u r in the US) plus the worry that something might happen to your ECU during shipping. You can get the FlashTune Bikeside harness (that's what I got) for around $365.00 (US). So for me, the extra $150, give or take a few dollars, was way worth all the added flexibility I got.
From my experience, I sent out my ECU to be flashed by SBU and it didn't do the job as I wanted it and I had several complaints. They told me to send it back and the did some adjusting. When I got the ECU back it was even worse. They told me there must be something wrong with my bike because the idle was at 2400 and they couldn't get it to drop down. this was after spending around $230. I bought a TBR tuner and did some fuel mapping adjustments and got it to a tolerable ride but not what it should be for the type of bike it is. Another $220 plus a tone of time. I finally bought the Bike side harness from FTecu for $360 and am in the process of dialing in my bike. The weather temperature and where I ride does seem to make the tune fluctuate in performance. I like the option of doing what I want to the bike at will versus sending it off to have it changed again! The other plus side is making changes to the bike require making changes to the setup which would require more sending it off or living with the change and potential loss in performance. IE I changed the rear sprocket from 47T to 49T and its a livable change but it makes the miles go up on the bike faster than actual miles traveled and throws off the speedo. You can buy a speedo healer to correct it but with the FTecu it can be adjusted. I changed the front from 17 to 15 on a different date and again I would have to send it out or just live with the change to the speedometer and miles. in short, well worth the investment. just my 2cents. ride safe!
does it also tune euro 4 mopeds?
You would have to go to the Flashtune Web site to see if they have a kit for your specific moped, but not sure this is designed for mopeds.
I bought the same kit as you but what would I need to use for the kit be able to be connected to different bikes? Or do I have to keep buying the kit for every bike until I have all of them 😂 just like Pokémon gotta buy them all
U will need the bike side harness for each bike and the subscription. Total of about $100 per bike
I am La dam that’s a lot but worth it I think. I’m trying to flash bikes at my job in Los Angeles for people that don’t want to ship there ECU to other states thanks for answering quickly
Why don't they just engineer each cylinder to cool equally ..???
Cylinders 2 & 3 have Cylinders on both sides transferring heat, Cylinders 1 & 4 only have Cylinders on one side transferring heat so obviously the inner Cylinders will get hotter and they do engineer them to cool equally, by fueling them a litter richer.
Very helpful. I plan on getting the FlashTune harness. I really like what you are doing with your maps to smooth out the throttle and other adjustments. Are you sharing on FlashTune the file you are currently running on your bike. I have a 2017 R6 and would like to make simular changes to my bikes ecu using your file as reference. Would you be able to give me some advice on how I can make your file work on a 2017 R6? Or any surggestions on a simular image compared to yours thats shared on FlashTune that’s for a 2017 R6? Any help would be appreciated.
ytmikeny ... I'm actually planning on making a few more adjustments, I've just made some and it's made kind of a big difference. And yes...absolutely I will help you with your R6 files and we'll get your bike running precisely how you want it. Talk to ya soon...La
I am La , thanks, I appreciate any help you can provide. Is there currently a shared file on flash tune that I can use as a good base for the 2017 R6?
ytmikeny ...I haven't looked at any of the R6 files. I will try to do that later today if I get a chance. I would also join the R6 forums and ask around there. My guess is someone has already done some extensive work on the files.
I am La.. Yeah, I’ve been on the R6 forums, I’ll have to do a little more research there and dig deeper, I haven’t found anything with actual files or suggestion on any files for the 2017 R6. I’m assuming it may have to do with the bike being relatively new.
The restrictions (speed limit, temperature, ais, o2 senor, exup, engine breaking etc.) seem relatively easy to adjust/set, but adjustments to the maps are more difficult, as I am looking for the smoother throttle response with the add power across the rpm and throttle position.
I’m installing a hindle full exhaust and plan on ordering the Flash Tune harness.
ytmikeny ... because ur bike is so new, make sure they (FlashTune) has the software for your specific bike then I can walk u thru the throttle maps for each gear and show u where I made my adjustments. Hell I will probably make a detailed video specifically about the throttle maps, because they are the only ones that r important for smoothing on/off throttle.
Do you know if you have to do anything to the ecu to put race fuel or even 100 oct?
I dont believe so, but I am not really sure so dont trust me K. I do believe that race fuel might run hotter, so you will need to keep a close eye on your engine temps.
So I don’t a power commander if I get this?
... correct. Provided FlashTune makes a harness for your bike this does away with the need for a PC. I will say that not many Dyno shops work with the FlashTune software so air to fuel mixtures might be slightly off, but that is not really a huge deal because the maps the software comes with are good and safe... Meaning Rich. Having the customizability is what makes this software so fantastic.
The tune kit on flush tune can i use it to flush different ecu or i only can use it to flush just one ecu
You can use the software to flash as many ECUs you want. However, each ecu will need a separate FlashTune subscription/license. You can get more info on this from Flashtunes website.
Sorry for the mistakes in my response. They have been edited, this time with my glasses on LOL.
@@IamLaR1 i think they call it license
@@dearabed284 I think you are absolutely correct. I have edited my original response thanks for the clarification.
Hi
How can we adjust idle speed under ECT vs idle speed?
Thanks
Open the ECT vs RPM map. The numbers at the top of that chart represent the temperature of your bike and the numbers on the left column represent the engine RPM. The numbers in the boxes in the chart itself that correspond to the top Temp and the left side RPM are the actual RPM that you bike will idle at, based on the temperature listed on the top row. I know it is confusing because there are only double digits but just add two "00" to the numbers in each box on the grid. So for example, at 77 degs and 1200 RPM your bike will idle at 16(00) or 1600 RPM, see how that works (assuming u r looking at the stock map). So at 121.6 deg and 1900 RPM your bike will drop back down to 13 of 1300 RPM. If you want your bike to idle above 1300 RPM you will need to change the number in the 121.6 temp range and higher because this is the normal operating temperature, and above 1950 RPM (again referencing the left RPM column). Hope that helps.
@@IamLaR1
Thank you so much 👍🍻
Sir how did u get the files from ecu to laptop?
You need to get the Flashtune software and harness.
So all I've to do is order a bike side harness for my Yamaha r1 2011 and install the ft ecu software and then play with it ? is it actually that easy ?
Tariq Rahim ... Is what that easy? If you are looking to get rid of that jumpy throttle, yes... It is absolutely that easy... And you will be amazed. I can walk you through it and when we're done you will have a silky smooth throttle and an extremely enjoyable riding bike.
Also...i know my vids are sometime boring...well, probable all the time boring, but take a look at my other video specifically about fixing the R1 jerky throttle. I am telling you bro that yes it is that easy, and yes you will be amazed, and yes your throttle will be amazing, and yes I will walk you through it if you need help. Have a blessed day and keep her up right...La
How I can download program
go to the Flashtune Website.
where can i get the desktop cables ?
from either FlashTunes website or I think Graves has them also.
I downloaded a map from dynojet for my mods. How do I know it actually wrote to my ecu? Is there a way to see it on the tuning suite?
You will have to compare the stock maps that Flashtune provides to your current maps flashed to your ecu. There should be a difference.
I am La thanks brother. I will do that
Bro you should be a guru. The way you explain stuff is very soothing. Rarely anyone explains stuff like this on youtube. I have a ktm duke 390 2017 and i want to flash its ecu, what are your suggestions?
my man, unfortunately I don't know a lot about the KTM's. I would suggest joining a KTM forum and start going through all their treads. Someone has more than likely gone thru what you want to do and those folks would be the best to ask. Have a blessed day Bro...La
Oh and if u have anymore questions give me a few hours or so...bout to go ride the R1
I am La pop wheelie for me bro. Happy riding.
Where did you get your bike side harness?
I got my Harness from Graves. If u r a member of the R1 forum (assume u have an R1) there is a code that gives u 10% off. It (the harness) is so worth it bud. If u have any more questions ask away....La
I am La thanks definitely will pick that up
can i do this with my car
Not with this software but there might be some software for ur car that will allow this.
Are you in ny bro
No bro... Cali.
I have a r6s and I wanna adjust the performance and I wanna get the exhaust to do some insane popping/backfire while shifting up and down,what do you suggest
How to clear my engine light error diagnostic on ft tune...?? I am trying to clear that fail thing its not turning off
Hello Mr how are you. Can gife file mr
my files are on the flashtune website under shared files.
I reckon if you were smart enough you could retune a 4 stroke to act like a 2 stroke!!.....I miss the 2 stroke powerband....wonder if anyone's done this?
Roger that...above my pay grade though, for sure.
Free but requires internet... that's a disappointment waiting to happen.
Its not bad because it doesn't need the internet for long...and doesn't use too much data. I phone would work.
Until their server goes down.
Total trash ECU flash software. Woolrich has 10x the tune-ability. Sorry I went with this BS version. Research your purchase! I am a confirmed FTECU customer.. totally not happy with my purchase after getting flashed with Woolrich. Wanted blockoff plate warning engine light fixed and o2 sensor engine light fixed, and was told you are out of luck unless you have the right motorcycle on our list. You sell a $400 product that you do not upgrade/fix? Says it all!
What bike do you have? On my R1, I don't have any problem with the smog block off plates or the O2 sensor. I now have the autotune O2 sensor and it works perfectly. Not sure how Woolrich has 10x the tune-ability, when there is only so much that can be tuned...fueling and timing...thats it.
Great info