I actually like that aspect. When they develop the hook, it allows me to paint in hard to reach areas between limbs and some such. Or inder the hair, between a weapon and the body, etc. So I keep several hooking brushes for this :D
I use supercheap (like 0.4$ per unit) 1-size synthetic brushes for metallic paints and they are ok waaaay longer than I thought it would be With such low price I am ok with hooking Also I think it really depends on the specific manufacturer
I use both the cheapest and premium. Cheap synthetic for base coating and rough handling, then my nice ones for sharp detail finishes. That way my nice ones live longer. Also giving both types a good wash with brush soap really helps. Use the right tool for the right job.
great video. I've found that the cheap brushes do just fine for most applications, and for tabletop quality, will do the job well enough. Keep the synthetic cheapos as your workhorse brushes and save the nice expensive natural brushes for more detailed and delicate work
This is the only real answer, basecoating, washes, rough work, etc… can be done with a trash brush. Use high grade kolinsky for detail work, use some form of natural mid range brush for detail metallics work
Little late to the party here but Wind River Arts distribute Rosemary and Co in the US. When I got mine a couple years back I had to call in but they were really nice folks and my brushes arrived pretty quickly (about a week). Getting back into the hobby recently so going to put mine back to good use!
Unsurprisingly, an excellent and helpful comparison video about brushes made of hair comes from a chap with such an impressive beard. You obviously know, what you are talking about. ;-) Thank you very much!
Literally just bought three Rosemary & Co brushes for highlighting and details because my cheapish brushes frayed and dumped paint most unceremoniously. I’ve done the chest eagle and highlighting of one Raptor Space Marine today and the results are leagues ahead of what I’m used to. In my amateur opinion, most sets for £20 or 30 freedom dollars will do fine for most things but a good tip for one or two brushes is worth the expense, just be sure to WICK IT OFF!
I like Hobby Lobby brushes for synthetic. They cost $2 on sale. I do REALLY like my Windsor and Newton size zero. I only use it for highlights and small details (so like 2 hours a week)... But Ive had it for a year and it's like new.
I've been using Windsor and Newton synthetics for years and had very few regrets. Only recently bought some natural hair brushes, and I can confirm that there's nothing wrong with synthetic bristles, so long as you're prepared to adjust your painting techniques to your brush.
A non-trivial part of the problem of the Da Vinci series 35 is availability: Here in the US, they aren't in many places, and when they come in, they can go for $25 buckaroos instead of the 10 Euros I pay in my trips to Spain: More expensive than getting a Winsor & Newton series 7! But it's not brushes that limit us: See how the newest vallejo Xpress color series 2 is still not available to US distributors. So yes, it's not just that we need to go to Spain for Universal Healthcare, or extremely high quality Spanish Water, but all kinds of painting supplies at a sensible price
I have brand name brushes from the game companies and gallery art companies, sable brushes, other natural hair brushes and a horde of cheap brushes. The ones I always use and love can be bought at Hobby Lobby for $2 on sale and they are taklon.
I use Faber Castell Soft Touch brushes. 3€ per set in my nearest supermarket(Germany). They got a really consistent quality for that price, even though they're made for Kids and last about two weeks, depending on how much I paint.
There's lots of lessons to learn in this vid, and it is fun to watch, but there's still a question left to answer: In the cheap brushes range, the field should be split between no-name brush sets from discounters and dollar / pound shops (e.g. Woolworth) and the cheap "brand" brushes from office / school supply stores. To be precise: "How well would small Da Vinci Junior (series 303 & 304), Vernissage and Marabu Fino synthetic bristle brushes do? And if you want to go crazy for the test: how about those cheap hair water paint brushes for arts class?
It's useful to say, if you do go the natural bristle route, do not get paint deep into the brushes belly and let it dry in there. That will 100% have the brush start splitting as the dried paint is literally keeping the bristles from returning to shape. Rinse your brushes often and try to keep them relatively clean even during a longer paint session, to preserve their quality and extend their lifespan. Also, at the end of your painting session take the time to more thoroughly wash your brushes. Use soap and water, clean them and repeat if there is any color left on the paper towel as you pat them dry. Only when there is no trace of color left are you done washing your brushes. Take care of your brushes like this and your natural hair brushes can last a really long time, making them WELL worth the added cost compared to cheap brushes.
I have been saying for YEARS that the best brush is like the best paint - it's the best FOR YOU. For me, I prefer the stiff throw of a synthetic brush over the softer natural brushes.
But what about less cheap synthetic brushes ? I personally choose to only use synth brushes and I truly understand the problems you describe with them. Also your video perfectly shows what I can see myself versus what I see with people using "natural" brushes. But it would be nice to see the difference between the very cheap brushes you can find everywhere against (for example) the Raphael 8394. Also, I've tried the W&N synth brushes and they are also bad, especially considering the price... Still a nice video and comparison and it explains the limitations I have with my regular synth brushes. By that I mean, it's not just me, it comes from the brushes that doesn't help what I could do with a better brushes :D
I think expensive synthetics are the worst from both worlds, expensive and at the same time losing tip very fast, almost the same as $1 synthetics Also agree on W&N synthetics, not the best experience
I’m not the best painter by any means but I’ve found dollar store natural hair brushes work amazingly if you can find some with a good tip. My $5 (AUS) brushes came in a pack of six and while I only use 2 of them they have been a god send compared to my citadel synthetic or natural and I’m never going back. This could just be citadel being a pile of crap but I’m not about to fork out extra cash for another good brand brush while I can get something amazing for so cheap.
Something to help stray hair and splitting for me has been dip in boiling water then message conditioner into the hair and leave till you next use it or even hair wax that you normally use to style with works well then just rinse off before use again
I took advantage of a trip to London to buy the Artis Opus size 0 and 1, I must have been unlucky cause the tips are not that fine they do nothing but split while I use them. I had bought them for the highlights but given this problem I now only use them as brushes to paint the basecoat now.
Thanks a lot for making this video! I just bought few weeks ago Da vince brushes, series 35 1 and series 10 1, 0 and 00 and gotta say I rly like them. Specially series 35 brush, it 2s so good. I was thinking about buying the artis opus series S set, but after watching this video, I won't waste my money and just keep using my trysted Da Vince brush!
I've been using my W&N Series 7 Size 2 for about 10 years, and now it's time to get new ones. I think that this time I will try Artis Opus. I haven't had good experiences with DaVinci, especially with their Squidmar line. They all came with split tips. The only exception is one DaVinci brush with a very small tip and very short bristles that I use to paint eyes.
@@willthorson4543 Dude-- how is that remotely possible? Bristles fall out over time even with gentle use and care. My old W&N's would keep their point even when they wore down to nubs, but they still wear down to nubs after a good 6-12 months.
I bought a set of like 6 sable hair brushes off Amazon for $28 3 years ago, and I am still using them to this day. So while natural hair is better in general, you still don't have to buy "expensive" brushes. Also, synthetics are great for drybrushing and stipling, basically anything known to destroy brushes. I use synthetic for all my "contrast" paints, inks, and washes. Those things wreck natural hair brushes. As to splitting tips, get some of that hair gel people use to do mohawks, can;t remember exactly what it's called. Clean ur brush properly, let it dry, then apply that stuff and shape the tip, let it sit for a few days then clean it again. More often then not the split tip is fixed.
i avoid synthetic brushes like the plague, but most any other brush is at least somewhat usable without major issues. i will say that once i tried kolinsky sable after having painted for a few years, i noticed the difference. its just such a pleasure to paint with, even if not strictly necessary. if you dont have confidence in taking care of your brushes though, i would advise skipping the expensive ones.
Great video as always. However i think you could have at least made reference to the ethical concerns with sable brushes. Yes they might perform better but it's at a cost and that's why for some people (myself included) sable isn't really an option.
I definitely use cheap synthetics or even makeup brushes for drybrushing and stippling, but I found Rosemary and Co. Kolinsky series 33 sable brushes are pretty cheap but really nice quality. I'm not a great painter or anything but I just find the kolinsky ones are so much less frustrating to paint with, so I'd recommend them even to beginners because you spend so much less time fighting your brush.
I still prefer Winsor & Newton. For the last three years I tried many alternatives. But the spring and the tip of W&N are still the best. I tried Davinci but they lost the tip during the first paint session. There are still some brands I'll have to test but so far I stay with W&N.
I would recommend trying Raphael, I think this is the best brush, actual top tier, not just repackaged mid-range Rosemary & Co as Artist Opus for twice the price I like W&N but this brush probably has the highest amount of defects out of the box, probably a half had some issues
@@gi1dor I testest Raphael for two years. I forge to buy new ones had a W&N in in my drawer and never switched back. Raphael feels to me more soft. And they didn't last any longer than W&N. I still use one for darklining as I find the soft bristles an advantage. They are definately very good brushes.
@@redrooster7371 yes, I don't say that they last longer than W&N, but I just never had a single problem with them, but about half of my W&N have some issues with tip or do not hold form properly for long enough
I have a couple W&N series 7 brushes (20 bucks each or so) that ive had for 20+ years. They are worth it if you take care of them. I have synthetic brushes for weathering amd washes. And other things like stippling or dry brustes. Again. It comes to how you use and treat your brushes. If my 20 dollar brushes can last 20+ years then its worth it
I use the Maestro series 10 and 11. The series 11's are full body and hold a ton of paint and are great for big jobs like base coating or larger surface areas and still have a great tip. There are many mid-cheap synth brushes out there now in the $4-6 range (shop around) and come in a variety of stiffness. Princeton 4050 series which Dr. Faust uses are a good example of a semi cheap quality synth brush.But yes, most synth's will eventually "hook".
I use a Van Bleiswijck 6 Brush set (2 bucks for 6 brushes) for everything not detail related. Does the job and if they die I just rip open another set every 1/2 year or so. It's nice when you have to care only about keeping the higher end detail brushes in top condition.
I also have nothing but issues with windsor and newton. Splitting hairs or in some cases they are shipped damaged because someone damaged the hairs when they place the plastic cover on it. And this is when they are sealed. So no tampering.
It's a problem with W&N, had the highest amount of defects with them Rosemary are cheaper and have better quality control (they also manufacture Artist Opus brushes too, just twice the price)
Raphael 8404's have been the best to me. I use a 4, 2,and 1. I have had 4 Winsor and N Series 7's and all 4 lost their tips in a matter of a few weeks (I take very good care of my sable brushes).
Citadel brushes the M/S layer brushes got me through the thick and thin of painting tons of stuff but the quality control on them is bad. You could get one that lasts a year without issues or one that lasts a month without going to shit. Even with Windsor and Newton the quality is better but not perfect.
The cheapest brushes that I use are a synthetic from Michael's craft stores. The princeton velvet touch brushes. They're like 8-12 dollars for sizes that are usable on minis. I use those and the artis opus series s. I prefer those princeton velvet touch ones for base coats and I use similarly cheap ones like that for metallics. Artis opus is for details
There are some aspects for synthetic brushes, that's stippling, and true mantellic metals. I def prefer mid range priced brushes. That being said someone gifted me Winsor and Newton (0 and 00), and I love them for painting eyes and small details. But now I really wanna try a few Artist Opal brushes. One day I wanna try an air brush just to see if I like it or not. Also they tend to be the best option for color shift paints, though I do paint my color shift paints with regular brushes.
For myself I love the da Vinci series 35 brushes, preferable to the Artis Opus imo. I do have some decent synthetics for basing, stippling etc... hate that they hook so easily. Will be looking to get more da Vincis in the future. Thanks for this video, confirms some thoughts I already had.
For what it's worth, I've gotten a lot of mileage out of a fairly cheap synthetic rigger brush for freehand on my minis. Not sure if I got lucky on getting a good one or not, but I'm very happy with it.
Large natural brush is even better, holds a lot of paint, allows you to paint smaller details I also use cheap synthetics for this, but they almost immediately lose tips, just after a couple sessions
missed the "time spend" comparison between the three minis, difference? 2 of 4 of my for da vinci s10 the ferule wasn' t put far enough, wibble, wobble... :( hobbyknife and woodglue for the fix. Wish me luck Love the length of the handle thou in comparison with my Raphael 8404 (shorties) Gonna check those 35 s
I just use hobby lobby synthetic brushes. Its fine lol. Holds paint well, retains water, feels like quality. Yes they will hook, but they'll do what they need to do. I dont recommend taklon for fine point brushes, but its good for anything else. I use synthetic squirrel mainly from HL and a bulk pack and its great! Dont waste more money on warhammer than you already have lol
I'll say this, I bought Artis Opus' series M set of 5 brushes for my birthday for $120.00. In and of themselves, they haven't made me a better painter. But the higher quality brush HAS made me enjoy painting much more than the reliable $5 brushes I've been using for the past 3-4 years. And being able to enjoy painting as much as I do with my fancy brushes has made me a better painter. That being said, my cheap Hobby Lobby brushes will *always* have a place in my painting tool box and I would highly reccomend them over the Artis Opus brushes for anyone just starting out. TL,DR: GW brushes are way to fucking expensive and whether it's Artis Opus or cheapo $5 Hobby Lobby brushes, there are far better options than GW.
I've honestly bought waaay to many brushes, but I can agree the Windsor and Newton S7 was the worst of the lot, and I returned it after 2 uses. I'm now awaiting some Rafael 8404's to compare to the Davinci series 10 and 35 I have, and I'm still in the return window for all of them, so will stick with the best of the lot. The 10 is definitely the winner, right now, only because the 35 has the stray hair problem from time to time as you explained. I also have the Monument Hobbies Pro Sables and Rosemary and Co series 33, and are quite solid performers, however for those who can't get the Series 33, The Monument Hobbies brushes are almost identical to me, and i actually favor them a bit more than the 33's - just from my experience of course, so others mileage may vary.
I've barely even started the video, but my own take is, simply, no. I've been just getting back into miniatures over the last year after more than a decade away from the hobby and done most of that painting with a cheesy set of $4 for the whole set synthetics. If you take care of them properly they do just fine for most things. That said, I've also just got a good set of kolinski's now i feel confident i won't destroy them and the quality difference is astronomical. If you've got the skills a good set of brushes is totally worth it, but not necessary. As we say in the sport shooting world "the gun is more accurate than most shooters". The better brushes will definitely make things "better"/easier, but you really don't get much more out of them compared to cheap brushes until you have some skill built up
This is interesting to hear. I've only been getting into miniature painting over the last year, and I don't have much time to paint so I just bought myself a pack of 100 little synthetic brushes for 9 bucks. I've been thinking about getting myself a natural hair brush since the first miniature I painted, but I'm just very nervous that I'll destroy it.
@@cripplelord6383 getting a single size 1 or 2 for doing the finer detail stuff and only ever using it for that is a good way to go as well. even though i've a whole set of sable hair brushes now i still tend to use the synthetics for base coating or stippling and whatnot. Basically get the one mid range natural hair to practice with and keep using the synthetics for everything else. it certainly isnt a bad thing to spoil yourself now and again
@@cripplelord6383you really can’t destroy it that bad if your not being reckless (keep paint out of ferrule, don’t jab, etc). Grab some brush soap too when you get one and keep the bristles well conditioned.
After watching the entire video, and given that I ALSO experienced tip splitting on my Windsor & Newton (after A LOT of usage, thought), I'm going to try the DaVinci Maestro 35. At least where I live they are cheaper than W&N, and from the video I'm liking the belly shape. Thanks!!!
You need exactly one size 1 kolinsky brush, and any number of synthetic/hybrid brushes. The kolinsky well maintained is exactly what you need for detail work. Everything else you can use a 50 cent synthetic and it’ll work fine.
yes, they're mentioned a lot, but prices vary also depending on location which can be a factor. they're "local" for me since they're made in saint brieuc in france, and i'm not impressed by my W&N in comparison, for its price...
I bought these cheap "sable" brushes the other week on amazon. They don't feel like synthetic brushes for the most part but the tip still hooks. I think I'll just stick with regular quality synthetics in future.. and proper sable kolinsky brushes.
I've yet to buy a sable hair brush. I have migrated from cheap synthetics to natural hairs for mostly the ease of paint flow quality that natural hair has. But I still have 20 brushes left from a "40 for 7$" pack of synthetics from China. Those brushes I still use for contrast paints and metallics every time I paint, and most base coats as well. Then once I need to get to some detail work, I switch to a boar/wolf blend brush that cost like 5 bucks. Maybe some day I splurge and get a sable, but honestly I don't think spending 10 bucks on a brush sounds like a tempting investment at the moment. I'm having fun painting with the 5 buck natural hair and that other fiver can be spent on some paint hoarding instead.
Hey Zumikito, it's not related to the video but are you still using the just dark sea blue and white recipe for your NMM? I'm painting gobs too and love how your metals look. Also gotta say I really like the monument pro sables, I use the size 3(around $13USD) from them(its similar size to a size 1 W&N) and i use that as my daily driver work horse. they stand up to decent abuse and the company does QC by hand so Ive have better luck than the crapshoot W&N has been these past few years
I have tried all the high end brushes that exist, (so much so that if I remember correctly the Da Vinci Maestro Series 10 was per your recommendation) no brush on the market compares to the Windsor Newton series 7. The others are still on the rack for when I'm desperate, but if the series 7 stops being functional then painting stops till a new one comes in the mail. I may have to clip a stray hair from new ones which I don't have to do to the others brands, but they are inferior to paint with so they may as well not even shipped. I don't really think it matters if your using an uncurled synthetic or an Artist Opus M, from experience I can tell you that if your not comparing them to a series 7 then it is not really possible to answer the question in your title.
I think Artis Opus brushes are sourced from Rosemary & Co. So if you want them for cheaper, try there. Consider this second hand information though. I have no verifiable sources.
Need? No. But a good brush can be a big help. I love the Raphael 8404 series. The size 2 has been holding up with A LOT of abuse. Brush soap also works wonders reshaping the tip.
yes brush soap is SO important. i bought quite a few da vinci and raphael, i've had them for 10 years and they are impeccable thanks to the master's brush cleaner. so a good investment.
My W/N split significantly less quickly than my Raphael brushes (which tbh seemed dead on arrival) but it split quickly enough that I was turned off natural hair for a while. But now I'm kicking myself for not getting a Da Vinci brush while overseas for cheaper. I know for drybrushing, I just use cheap brushes from a brand called elf we have in the ~land of no universal healthcare.~ On synthetics though.... I notice for *watercolor* applications that synthetic squirrel is better than synthetic sable. Holds water a hell of a lot better than synthetic sable but it's too soft for even the thinner acrylic usage in minipainting.
I have several brushes that I bought for $1 each a number of years ago, and still use for painting. I've had brushrs that I paid $14 for that fell apart after a couple of months...
how come the winsor and newton gets so much hate? i got one and it's alright, but i like my raphael and da vinci a lot better. my first relatively expensive brush was a privateer press, and it was extremely disappointing.
Cheap synthetic brushes with bigger sizes like 5 or 6 is fucking awesome for basecoating You can basecoat entire mini in like 1-2 minutes And they are really good for bigger miniatures
I personally use the da Vinci Nova 1670 series with almost no complains. I only use synthetic brushes (for a reason) but when highlighting, keeping the tip really depends on the size of the brush. Any tips on how to maintain a better tip with synthetic brushes?
Can you make a vid on how to maintain and most importantly how to make and create tips on your brush? My brushes from GW the standard even the synthetic and the premium ones kind off all dont hold any tips. Do i paint wrong? To strong to light, is the paint wrong?! How to create sharp tips? Is it even possible or is it just a factory made problem?!
Can confirm: got a Series 7 as a gift this Christmas and the tip is split. It holds together pretty well when the bristles are wet, but if it dries out there's a massive gap down the middle.
I have to say that I tried an Artis Opus (well, three of them, to be precise) brushes and I was very disappointed. Yes, very sharp tip, good belly, BUT after removing quite an amount of loose hairs, damaged hairs, etc. Not what I expected for the price. And yes, I may have stumbled upon a 'bad' lot, but I've read people sharing similar stories. So, no my first choice. This said, I'm a kolinski guy, but I prefer Windsor & Newton and Spanish local brands like Escoda, IMHO much better than Artis Opus and at better prices, too. Synthetics? Yes, I use them all the time for basecoating, metallics (I haven't damaged a good brush EVER using metallics, but the flakes are nearly impossible to clean, so I have specific brushes for them), drybrushing, stippling, etc. I love them, they're very cheap, and weren't for the horrible hooking they present after a few uses, I would not use any other brushes for my painting.
I find it really funny that just last week I got my first kolinsky brushes off of Amazon without really knowing much about brands and such. Now having seen your video I was curious what I had gotten, and they're DaVinci maestro series 10! It doesn't even say so in the packaging, I had to open the case to see that 😂😅
When I started painting, I have picked up several artist brushes and picked the smallest ones :D I like the big ones but the small ones are atrocious. I some times use them for eyes and what not, but they literary dry out on the way from the palett to the mini :'D So usually I can touch the mini once and I have to get paint again :'D They are sooo baaaaaaad :D Since then I tend to use big chunky boys :D
Loved this comparison video! I use Artis Opus Series S and Dry brushes, which have been terrific for me! Also, does the extra "five inches" only apply to new subscribers? I've been a subscriber for quite a while now and haven't noticed any..uh..new growth!
The best use for cheap brushes in my experience is learning to paint your first army. Once you learn how to properly load and clean cheap brushes, then you’re ready to move up to davincis or WN brushes. Get some packs of cheap ones, some Master brush soap, and get cleaning.
One thing I've noticed that all the videos doing this test never address is the actual price difference, what I mean by this is if you buy cheap brushes say for simplicity $1.5 each that you have to replace often and you buy 7 brushes it's $10.5, but if the expensive brush lasts as long or longer than the 7 cheap brushes and costs $8 then you save $2.5+ by going up in quality, it might not be that much, but when you see it in the long term so everything you save in the short term you can use for other things in the long term.
The biggest problem of synthetic for me is the durability, the tip curls after like a few months of usage and it's extremely difficult to fix. It makes the brush impossible to do any detail painting
Short answer is no. You dont need anything other than what you need. Veterans will know what I mean here. Dont over buy stuff, but if you got a vision then I say go all in. They are the projects I most end up proud of.
I was legit just looking into how much I was going to have to spend to get a couple really good brushes like, an hour before this video was posted. Incredible timing 😂 I def need to go eyeball some brushes and check out their tips and bellies now 👀
Have a look at Rosemary and Co series 33 Kolinsky sable brushes. They are the cheapest sable brushes I've seen anywhere and they are very good quality. Apparently, they make Artis Opus brushes, but I'm not 100% sure about that.
For some reason YT won't allow me to reply to your reply. Are they different enough to... make a difference though LOL? I use Artis Opus myself and would love similar for cheaper. I only paint busts and 75mm figures these days and I use the no.1 and no.2 mostly. 🙂
In Poland you can buy genue kolynsky brushes made by Ukrainian company ROSA. They cost 3usd a piece, and are very good. They should be available in most of europe.
Great video, watched all the way through, I would love to see a video 3 months in, with them all heavily trafficked, and used and abused. Keep up the great content, love your work!
hey I'm buying one of each of artist opus and a da vici, you got any refers codes for any of them as you are adverting them? seems a shame for you not to get a quid or so from your work, Also i learnt more watching you paint during your review of the artist opus than in any number of your other videos. Most painting gods have probably been through the fine art track and forget that mere mortals really don't know the basics, like how to hold the brushes and what part to stick against the mini. In fact, until we see it, we didn't even know we didn't know it. Anyway, keep it up. Your dulcet tones help me de-stress and keep me addicted to the hobby of slapping paint on toy soldiers. Actually don't worry, I've just ordered. ill just show my appreciation by buying a membership.
Ha! No worries! Honestly I don't feel like I am advertising them, because I genuinely like those products, so I don't mind talking about them. If only AO was a bit cheaper, it would be like a perfect brush. I have tried Rosemary's brushes as well (as people suggest they are produced in the same factory) but it doesn't seem to be the same brush. Either way, I am excited for you to find out which one you like more. Thank you!
Has anyone used the Vallejo Pro Modeller natural hair brushes? I’m a beginner and am currently using their synthetic brushes but can’t get a sharp tip.
I use the jethro tull method. Buy cheap brushes, abuse the shit out of them, toss em when they are unrepairable. Buy new cheap brushes. Same as Ian Anderson did with cheap starter flutes.
Could you please make a video in which you will describe which techniques are unnecessary and which are worth using when painting, for example, an army? I know that it depends on the person, but what according to you is the minimum to make the whole thing look good?
3:05 You saying "All about holding the tip" while wearing a shirt that says "I love edging" is great
The killer for me with synthetic brushes is the hooking. It feels like some of them can't maintain a straight tip for more than a few brushstrokes.
I use cheap $3.50 synthetic brushes a lot and that is frequent issue
What about hybrids?
I actually like that aspect. When they develop the hook, it allows me to paint in hard to reach areas between limbs and some such. Or inder the hair, between a weapon and the body, etc. So I keep several hooking brushes for this :D
I use supercheap (like 0.4$ per unit) 1-size synthetic brushes for metallic paints and they are ok waaaay longer than I thought it would be
With such low price I am ok with hooking
Also I think it really depends on the specific manufacturer
Hooked brushes are great for painting spears and gun barrels.
I use both the cheapest and premium. Cheap synthetic for base coating and rough handling, then my nice ones for sharp detail finishes. That way my nice ones live longer. Also giving both types a good wash with brush soap really helps.
Use the right tool for the right job.
great video. I've found that the cheap brushes do just fine for most applications, and for tabletop quality, will do the job well enough. Keep the synthetic cheapos as your workhorse brushes and save the nice expensive natural brushes for more detailed and delicate work
Exactly. It's a shame to "waste" expensive natural brushes to use them on EVERYTHING when synthetics work for 80% of the painting process.
This is the only real answer, basecoating, washes, rough work, etc… can be done with a trash brush. Use high grade kolinsky for detail work, use some form of natural mid range brush for detail metallics work
Another thing is contrast paints. They kill natural hair brushes in my experience. It is best used with synthetics.
So to conclude, we all just need to get as good as you and then we can paint really well with whatever brush we grab. Easy!! 😅
repetition and practice for sure but knowing which brushes is good for what is good to know as well 😅
Artis Opus are made by Rosemary & Co. Obviously to their specs but I'm sure you can get something similar from their stock range for much cheaper.
Well I've just bookmarked my soon to be favourite brush retailer I expect.
The series 33 or series 8 are the go to options for mini painting.
@@mirkyd5944yeah, Series 33 are like £7-8 a pop and absolutely worth every penny.
Enjoy that non-US customers. Clearly, AO, got an exclusive deal for U.S. distribution. We're stuck with the AO markup.
Little late to the party here but Wind River Arts distribute Rosemary and Co in the US. When I got mine a couple years back I had to call in but they were really nice folks and my brushes arrived pretty quickly (about a week). Getting back into the hobby recently so going to put mine back to good use!
Unsurprisingly, an excellent and helpful comparison video about brushes made of hair comes from a chap with such an impressive beard. You obviously know, what you are talking about. ;-) Thank you very much!
Literally just bought three Rosemary & Co brushes for highlighting and details because my cheapish brushes frayed and dumped paint most unceremoniously. I’ve done the chest eagle and highlighting of one Raptor Space Marine today and the results are leagues ahead of what I’m used to.
In my amateur opinion, most sets for £20 or 30 freedom dollars will do fine for most things but a good tip for one or two brushes is worth the expense, just be sure to WICK IT OFF!
Artis Opus are made by Rosemary & Co.
@@AndrevwZAwithout the price tag
I like Hobby Lobby brushes for synthetic. They cost $2 on sale. I do REALLY like my Windsor and Newton size zero. I only use it for highlights and small details (so like 2 hours a week)... But Ive had it for a year and it's like new.
I've been using Windsor and Newton synthetics for years and had very few regrets. Only recently bought some natural hair brushes, and I can confirm that there's nothing wrong with synthetic bristles, so long as you're prepared to adjust your painting techniques to your brush.
A non-trivial part of the problem of the Da Vinci series 35 is availability: Here in the US, they aren't in many places, and when they come in, they can go for $25 buckaroos instead of the 10 Euros I pay in my trips to Spain: More expensive than getting a Winsor & Newton series 7! But it's not brushes that limit us: See how the newest vallejo Xpress color series 2 is still not available to US distributors.
So yes, it's not just that we need to go to Spain for Universal Healthcare, or extremely high quality Spanish Water, but all kinds of painting supplies at a sensible price
I have brand name brushes from the game companies and gallery art companies, sable brushes, other natural hair brushes and a horde of cheap brushes. The ones I always use and love can be bought at Hobby Lobby for $2 on sale and they are taklon.
I use Faber Castell Soft Touch brushes. 3€ per set in my nearest supermarket(Germany).
They got a really consistent quality for that price, even though they're made for Kids and last about two weeks, depending on how much I paint.
I settled on some decent Rosemary and Co Red Dot Synthetics along with some Princetons. Very good brushes without paying absurd amounts.
There's lots of lessons to learn in this vid, and it is fun to watch, but there's still a question left to answer:
In the cheap brushes range, the field should be split between no-name brush sets from discounters and dollar / pound shops (e.g. Woolworth) and the cheap "brand" brushes from office / school supply stores.
To be precise: "How well would small Da Vinci Junior (series 303 & 304), Vernissage and Marabu Fino synthetic bristle brushes do?
And if you want to go crazy for the test: how about those cheap hair water paint brushes for arts class?
It's useful to say, if you do go the natural bristle route, do not get paint deep into the brushes belly and let it dry in there. That will 100% have the brush start splitting as the dried paint is literally keeping the bristles from returning to shape. Rinse your brushes often and try to keep them relatively clean even during a longer paint session, to preserve their quality and extend their lifespan. Also, at the end of your painting session take the time to more thoroughly wash your brushes. Use soap and water, clean them and repeat if there is any color left on the paper towel as you pat them dry. Only when there is no trace of color left are you done washing your brushes. Take care of your brushes like this and your natural hair brushes can last a really long time, making them WELL worth the added cost compared to cheap brushes.
I have been saying for YEARS that the best brush is like the best paint - it's the best FOR YOU. For me, I prefer the stiff throw of a synthetic brush over the softer natural brushes.
But what about less cheap synthetic brushes ?
I personally choose to only use synth brushes and I truly understand the problems you describe with them. Also your video perfectly shows what I can see myself versus what I see with people using "natural" brushes.
But it would be nice to see the difference between the very cheap brushes you can find everywhere against (for example) the Raphael 8394.
Also, I've tried the W&N synth brushes and they are also bad, especially considering the price...
Still a nice video and comparison and it explains the limitations I have with my regular synth brushes. By that I mean, it's not just me, it comes from the brushes that doesn't help what I could do with a better brushes :D
I think expensive synthetics are the worst from both worlds, expensive and at the same time losing tip very fast, almost the same as $1 synthetics
Also agree on W&N synthetics, not the best experience
I’m not the best painter by any means but I’ve found dollar store natural hair brushes work amazingly if you can find some with a good tip. My $5 (AUS) brushes came in a pack of six and while I only use 2 of them they have been a god send compared to my citadel synthetic or natural and I’m never going back. This could just be citadel being a pile of crap but I’m not about to fork out extra cash for another good brand brush while I can get something amazing for so cheap.
Something to help stray hair and splitting for me has been dip in boiling water then message conditioner into the hair and leave till you next use it or even hair wax that you normally use to style with works well then just rinse off before use again
I took advantage of a trip to London to buy the Artis Opus size 0 and 1, I must have been unlucky cause the tips are not that fine they do nothing but split while I use them. I had bought them for the highlights but given this problem I now only use them as brushes to paint the basecoat now.
Thanks a lot for making this video! I just bought few weeks ago Da vince brushes, series 35 1 and series 10 1, 0 and 00 and gotta say I rly like them. Specially series 35 brush, it 2s so good. I was thinking about buying the artis opus series S set, but after watching this video, I won't waste my money and just keep using my trysted Da Vince brush!
"But if you live in a country without universal healthcare..." 😂😂😂 I slammed the like button as soon as you made that joke 🤣
I've been using my W&N Series 7 Size 2 for about 10 years, and now it's time to get new ones. I think that this time I will try Artis Opus. I haven't had good experiences with DaVinci, especially with their Squidmar line. They all came with split tips.
The only exception is one DaVinci brush with a very small tip and very short bristles that I use to paint eyes.
Interesting about the W&N Series 7 splitting - literally so true! They get better with use and soap, but I shouldn’t have to groom a £20 before use!
I've used series 7 brushes for the past 20+ years and still have my original brushes. I've never had issues with those brushes.
@@willthorson4543 Dude-- how is that remotely possible? Bristles fall out over time even with gentle use and care. My old W&N's would keep their point even when they wore down to nubs, but they still wear down to nubs after a good 6-12 months.
I bought a set of like 6 sable hair brushes off Amazon for $28 3 years ago, and I am still using them to this day. So while natural hair is better in general, you still don't have to buy "expensive" brushes.
Also, synthetics are great for drybrushing and stipling, basically anything known to destroy brushes. I use synthetic for all my "contrast" paints, inks, and washes. Those things wreck natural hair brushes.
As to splitting tips, get some of that hair gel people use to do mohawks, can;t remember exactly what it's called. Clean ur brush properly, let it dry, then apply that stuff and shape the tip, let it sit for a few days then clean it again. More often then not the split tip is fixed.
i avoid synthetic brushes like the plague, but most any other brush is at least somewhat usable without major issues. i will say that once i tried kolinsky sable after having painted for a few years, i noticed the difference. its just such a pleasure to paint with, even if not strictly necessary. if you dont have confidence in taking care of your brushes though, i would advise skipping the expensive ones.
Great video as always. However i think you could have at least made reference to the ethical concerns with sable brushes. Yes they might perform better but it's at a cost and that's why for some people (myself included) sable isn't really an option.
I definitely use cheap synthetics or even makeup brushes for drybrushing and stippling, but I found Rosemary and Co. Kolinsky series 33 sable brushes are pretty cheap but really nice quality. I'm not a great painter or anything but I just find the kolinsky ones are so much less frustrating to paint with, so I'd recommend them even to beginners because you spend so much less time fighting your brush.
I still prefer Winsor & Newton. For the last three years I tried many alternatives. But the spring and the tip of W&N are still the best. I tried Davinci but they lost the tip during the first paint session. There are still some brands I'll have to test but so far I stay with W&N.
I would recommend trying Raphael, I think this is the best brush, actual top tier, not just repackaged mid-range Rosemary & Co as Artist Opus for twice the price
I like W&N but this brush probably has the highest amount of defects out of the box, probably a half had some issues
@@gi1dor I testest Raphael for two years. I forge to buy new ones had a W&N in in my drawer and never switched back. Raphael feels to me more soft. And they didn't last any longer than W&N. I still use one for darklining as I find the soft bristles an advantage. They are definately very good brushes.
@@redrooster7371 yes, I don't say that they last longer than W&N, but I just never had a single problem with them, but about half of my W&N have some issues with tip or do not hold form properly for long enough
I have a couple W&N series 7 brushes (20 bucks each or so) that ive had for 20+ years. They are worth it if you take care of them. I have synthetic brushes for weathering amd washes. And other things like stippling or dry brustes. Again. It comes to how you use and treat your brushes. If my 20 dollar brushes can last 20+ years then its worth it
I use the Maestro series 10 and 11. The series 11's are full body and hold a ton of paint and are great for big jobs like base coating or larger surface areas and still have a great tip. There are many mid-cheap synth brushes out there now in the $4-6 range (shop around) and come in a variety of stiffness. Princeton 4050 series which Dr. Faust uses are a good example of a semi cheap quality synth brush.But yes, most synth's will eventually "hook".
I use a Van Bleiswijck 6 Brush set (2 bucks for 6 brushes) for everything not detail related. Does the job and if they die I just rip open another set every 1/2 year or so. It's nice when you have to care only about keeping the higher end detail brushes in top condition.
I also have nothing but issues with windsor and newton. Splitting hairs or in some cases they are shipped damaged because someone damaged the hairs when they place the plastic cover on it. And this is when they are sealed. So no tampering.
It's a problem with W&N, had the highest amount of defects with them
Rosemary are cheaper and have better quality control (they also manufacture Artist Opus brushes too, just twice the price)
Raphael 8404's have been the best to me. I use a 4, 2,and 1. I have had 4 Winsor and N Series 7's and all 4 lost their tips in a matter of a few weeks (I take very good care of my sable brushes).
Citadel brushes the M/S layer brushes got me through the thick and thin of painting tons of stuff but the quality control on them is bad. You could get one that lasts a year without issues or one that lasts a month without going to shit. Even with Windsor and Newton the quality is better but not perfect.
The cheapest brushes that I use are a synthetic from Michael's craft stores. The princeton velvet touch brushes. They're like 8-12 dollars for sizes that are usable on minis. I use those and the artis opus series s. I prefer those princeton velvet touch ones for base coats and I use similarly cheap ones like that for metallics. Artis opus is for details
There are some aspects for synthetic brushes, that's stippling, and true mantellic metals. I def prefer mid range priced brushes. That being said someone gifted me Winsor and Newton (0 and 00), and I love them for painting eyes and small details. But now I really wanna try a few Artist Opal brushes. One day I wanna try an air brush just to see if I like it or not. Also they tend to be the best option for color shift paints, though I do paint my color shift paints with regular brushes.
For myself I love the da Vinci series 35 brushes, preferable to the Artis Opus imo. I do have some decent synthetics for basing, stippling etc... hate that they hook so easily. Will be looking to get more da Vincis in the future. Thanks for this video, confirms some thoughts I already had.
For what it's worth, I've gotten a lot of mileage out of a fairly cheap synthetic rigger brush for freehand on my minis. Not sure if I got lucky on getting a good one or not, but I'm very happy with it.
For me, I like using "cheap" brushes for large areas, or really basic layering... but for details, more expensive brushes are a game-changer.
Large natural brush is even better, holds a lot of paint, allows you to paint smaller details
I also use cheap synthetics for this, but they almost immediately lose tips, just after a couple sessions
missed the "time spend" comparison between the three minis, difference?
2 of 4 of my for da vinci s10 the ferule wasn' t put far enough, wibble, wobble... :( hobbyknife and woodglue for the fix. Wish me luck
Love the length of the handle thou in comparison with my Raphael 8404 (shorties)
Gonna check those 35 s
I just use hobby lobby synthetic brushes. Its fine lol. Holds paint well, retains water, feels like quality. Yes they will hook, but they'll do what they need to do. I dont recommend taklon for fine point brushes, but its good for anything else. I use synthetic squirrel mainly from HL and a bulk pack and its great!
Dont waste more money on warhammer than you already have lol
I'll say this, I bought Artis Opus' series M set of 5 brushes for my birthday for $120.00. In and of themselves, they haven't made me a better painter. But the higher quality brush HAS made me enjoy painting much more than the reliable $5 brushes I've been using for the past 3-4 years. And being able to enjoy painting as much as I do with my fancy brushes has made me a better painter.
That being said, my cheap Hobby Lobby brushes will *always* have a place in my painting tool box and I would highly reccomend them over the Artis Opus brushes for anyone just starting out.
TL,DR: GW brushes are way to fucking expensive and whether it's Artis Opus or cheapo $5 Hobby Lobby brushes, there are far better options than GW.
I've honestly bought waaay to many brushes, but I can agree the Windsor and Newton S7 was the worst of the lot, and I returned it after 2 uses. I'm now awaiting some Rafael 8404's to compare to the Davinci series 10 and 35 I have, and I'm still in the return window for all of them, so will stick with the best of the lot. The 10 is definitely the winner, right now, only because the 35 has the stray hair problem from time to time as you explained.
I also have the Monument Hobbies Pro Sables and Rosemary and Co series 33, and are quite solid performers, however for those who can't get the Series 33, The Monument Hobbies brushes are almost identical to me, and i actually favor them a bit more than the 33's - just from my experience of course, so others mileage may vary.
I've barely even started the video, but my own take is, simply, no. I've been just getting back into miniatures over the last year after more than a decade away from the hobby and done most of that painting with a cheesy set of $4 for the whole set synthetics. If you take care of them properly they do just fine for most things. That said, I've also just got a good set of kolinski's now i feel confident i won't destroy them and the quality difference is astronomical. If you've got the skills a good set of brushes is totally worth it, but not necessary. As we say in the sport shooting world "the gun is more accurate than most shooters". The better brushes will definitely make things "better"/easier, but you really don't get much more out of them compared to cheap brushes until you have some skill built up
This is interesting to hear. I've only been getting into miniature painting over the last year, and I don't have much time to paint so I just bought myself a pack of 100 little synthetic brushes for 9 bucks.
I've been thinking about getting myself a natural hair brush since the first miniature I painted, but I'm just very nervous that I'll destroy it.
@@cripplelord6383 getting a single size 1 or 2 for doing the finer detail stuff and only ever using it for that is a good way to go as well. even though i've a whole set of sable hair brushes now i still tend to use the synthetics for base coating or stippling and whatnot. Basically get the one mid range natural hair to practice with and keep using the synthetics for everything else. it certainly isnt a bad thing to spoil yourself now and again
@@cripplelord6383you really can’t destroy it that bad if your not being reckless (keep paint out of ferrule, don’t jab, etc). Grab some brush soap too when you get one and keep the bristles well conditioned.
After watching the entire video, and given that I ALSO experienced tip splitting on my Windsor & Newton (after A LOT of usage, thought), I'm going to try the DaVinci Maestro 35. At least where I live they are cheaper than W&N, and from the video I'm liking the belly shape. Thanks!!!
You need exactly one size 1 kolinsky brush, and any number of synthetic/hybrid brushes. The kolinsky well maintained is exactly what you need for detail work. Everything else you can use a 50 cent synthetic and it’ll work fine.
I really like the Raphael 8404 brushes
These are the ones I use and I really like them more then series 7.
For me the best too.
yes, they're mentioned a lot, but prices vary also depending on location which can be a factor. they're "local" for me since they're made in saint brieuc in france, and i'm not impressed by my W&N in comparison, for its price...
Rosemary and co do natural sable hair brushes for less than £5 each, if you want kolinsky sable they are about £8 but I can’t tell the difference
I bought these cheap "sable" brushes the other week on amazon. They don't feel like synthetic brushes for the most part but the tip still hooks. I think I'll just stick with regular quality synthetics in future.. and proper sable kolinsky brushes.
I've yet to buy a sable hair brush. I have migrated from cheap synthetics to natural hairs for mostly the ease of paint flow quality that natural hair has. But I still have 20 brushes left from a "40 for 7$" pack of synthetics from China. Those brushes I still use for contrast paints and metallics every time I paint, and most base coats as well. Then once I need to get to some detail work, I switch to a boar/wolf blend brush that cost like 5 bucks.
Maybe some day I splurge and get a sable, but honestly I don't think spending 10 bucks on a brush sounds like a tempting investment at the moment. I'm having fun painting with the 5 buck natural hair and that other fiver can be spent on some paint hoarding instead.
Hey Zumikito, it's not related to the video but are you still using the just dark sea blue and white recipe for your NMM? I'm painting gobs too and love how your metals look. Also gotta say I really like the monument pro sables, I use the size 3(around $13USD) from them(its similar size to a size 1 W&N) and i use that as my daily driver work horse. they stand up to decent abuse and the company does QC by hand so Ive have better luck than the crapshoot W&N has been these past few years
Ye pretty much, combo of dark sea blue, white and sometimes I mix in a bit of pale/purulent yellow
I have tried all the high end brushes that exist, (so much so that if I remember correctly the Da Vinci Maestro Series 10 was per your recommendation) no brush on the market compares to the Windsor Newton series 7. The others are still on the rack for when I'm desperate, but if the series 7 stops being functional then painting stops till a new one comes in the mail. I may have to clip a stray hair from new ones which I don't have to do to the others brands, but they are inferior to paint with so they may as well not even shipped. I don't really think it matters if your using an uncurled synthetic or an Artist Opus M, from experience I can tell you that if your not comparing them to a series 7 then it is not really possible to answer the question in your title.
I use sable brushes for finishing, otherwise I use Raphaël Precision (8504) synthetic brushes. They do curl, but after months of use.
I think Artis Opus brushes are sourced from Rosemary & Co. So if you want them for cheaper, try there.
Consider this second hand information though. I have no verifiable sources.
Need? No.
But a good brush can be a big help.
I love the Raphael 8404 series.
The size 2 has been holding up with A LOT of abuse.
Brush soap also works wonders reshaping the tip.
yes brush soap is SO important. i bought quite a few da vinci and raphael, i've had them for 10 years and they are impeccable thanks to the master's brush cleaner. so a good investment.
I've been very happy with the silver Green stuff world brushes - they're the fine middle road of affordable, and long enough life.
thanks for the video! i would love a links for buying of the burshes you use!
i am looking for a midrange brush for my centerline models!
My W/N split significantly less quickly than my Raphael brushes (which tbh seemed dead on arrival) but it split quickly enough that I was turned off natural hair for a while. But now I'm kicking myself for not getting a Da Vinci brush while overseas for cheaper. I know for drybrushing, I just use cheap brushes from a brand called elf we have in the ~land of no universal healthcare.~
On synthetics though.... I notice for *watercolor* applications that synthetic squirrel is better than synthetic sable. Holds water a hell of a lot better than synthetic sable but it's too soft for even the thinner acrylic usage in minipainting.
I have several brushes that I bought for $1 each a number of years ago, and still use for painting. I've had brushrs that I paid $14 for that fell apart after a couple of months...
i hate my Winsor & Newton Series 7 so much i’m now using them as basecoat and wash brushes i love my Abteilung 502 nice spring and good tip
how come the winsor and newton gets so much hate? i got one and it's alright, but i like my raphael and da vinci a lot better. my first relatively expensive brush was a privateer press, and it was extremely disappointing.
Cheap synthetic brushes with bigger sizes like 5 or 6 is fucking awesome for basecoating
You can basecoat entire mini in like 1-2 minutes
And they are really good for bigger miniatures
I personally use the da Vinci Nova 1670 series with almost no complains. I only use synthetic brushes (for a reason) but when highlighting, keeping the tip really depends on the size of the brush. Any tips on how to maintain a better tip with synthetic brushes?
Can you make a vid on how to maintain and most importantly how to make and create tips on your brush? My brushes from GW the standard even the synthetic and the premium ones kind off all dont hold any tips. Do i paint wrong? To strong to light, is the paint wrong?! How to create sharp tips? Is it even possible or is it just a factory made problem?!
Have you tried rosemary co series 33? They are pretty cheap but supposedly Kolinsky I’ve got some ordered haven’t arrived yet though
Yes, if you are on a budgest, they are fine, it's just that sometimes the bristles are not evenly distributed in the brush
@@Zumikito I’m just starting out so hopefully they work for awhile thanks
Can confirm: got a Series 7 as a gift this Christmas and the tip is split. It holds together pretty well when the bristles are wet, but if it dries out there's a massive gap down the middle.
Raphael 8404 by far superior especially compared to them rebranded opos things
You should use some brush cleaner soap after your session so it keeps your brush in shape and it won't split.
I have to say that I tried an Artis Opus (well, three of them, to be precise) brushes and I was very disappointed. Yes, very sharp tip, good belly, BUT after removing quite an amount of loose hairs, damaged hairs, etc. Not what I expected for the price. And yes, I may have stumbled upon a 'bad' lot, but I've read people sharing similar stories. So, no my first choice.
This said, I'm a kolinski guy, but I prefer Windsor & Newton and Spanish local brands like Escoda, IMHO much better than Artis Opus and at better prices, too.
Synthetics? Yes, I use them all the time for basecoating, metallics (I haven't damaged a good brush EVER using metallics, but the flakes are nearly impossible to clean, so I have specific brushes for them), drybrushing, stippling, etc. I love them, they're very cheap, and weren't for the horrible hooking they present after a few uses, I would not use any other brushes for my painting.
Great vid, truly valuable info here
I find it really funny that just last week I got my first kolinsky brushes off of Amazon without really knowing much about brands and such. Now having seen your video I was curious what I had gotten, and they're DaVinci maestro series 10! It doesn't even say so in the packaging, I had to open the case to see that 😂😅
When I started painting, I have picked up several artist brushes and picked the smallest ones :D I like the big ones but the small ones are atrocious. I some times use them for eyes and what not, but they literary dry out on the way from the palett to the mini :'D So usually I can touch the mini once and I have to get paint again :'D They are sooo baaaaaaad :D Since then I tend to use big chunky boys :D
May I recommend rosemary & co brushes. Good price and nice quality brushes.
@zumikito_miniatures is there bit difference between series 10 than 35?
Loved this comparison video! I use Artis Opus Series S and Dry brushes, which have been terrific for me! Also, does the extra "five inches" only apply to new subscribers? I've been a subscriber for quite a while now and haven't noticed any..uh..new growth!
What night goblins are these? 40k or old world? never saw the model before.
This great video also reminded of Goobertown Hobbies' content sbout brushes.
A test with mid to high grade synthetics would be intresting too not only the cheap one
Cool as always.🖌
Damn. That Da Vinci Maestro for 1 to 12$... Where i live that brush is 24$....
The best use for cheap brushes in my experience is learning to paint your first army. Once you learn how to properly load and clean cheap brushes, then you’re ready to move up to davincis or WN brushes. Get some packs of cheap ones, some Master brush soap, and get cleaning.
guys, what do you think about army painter brushes?
One thing I've noticed that all the videos doing this test never address is the actual price difference, what I mean by this is if you buy cheap brushes say for simplicity $1.5 each that you have to replace often and you buy 7 brushes it's $10.5, but if the expensive brush lasts as long or longer than the 7 cheap brushes and costs $8 then you save $2.5+ by going up in quality, it might not be that much, but when you see it in the long term so everything you save in the short term you can use for other things in the long term.
The biggest problem of synthetic for me is the durability, the tip curls after like a few months of usage and it's extremely difficult to fix. It makes the brush impossible to do any detail painting
Short answer is no. You dont need anything other than what you need. Veterans will know what I mean here. Dont over buy stuff, but if you got a vision then I say go all in. They are the projects I most end up proud of.
thanks Zumikito
You guys basecoat with sable brushes??
I was legit just looking into how much I was going to have to spend to get a couple really good brushes like, an hour before this video was posted. Incredible timing 😂 I def need to go eyeball some brushes and check out their tips and bellies now 👀
Have a look at Rosemary and Co series 33 Kolinsky sable brushes. They are the cheapest sable brushes I've seen anywhere and they are very good quality. Apparently, they make Artis Opus brushes, but I'm not 100% sure about that.
For some reason YT won't allow me to reply to your reply. Are they different enough to... make a difference though LOL? I use Artis Opus myself and would love similar for cheaper. I only paint busts and 75mm figures these days and I use the no.1 and no.2 mostly. 🙂
In Poland you can buy genue kolynsky brushes made by Ukrainian company ROSA. They cost 3usd a piece, and are very good. They should be available in most of europe.
So in terms of the biggest difference would you say it's...
just the tip?
Cheap brush for corrections wouldn’t be terrible. Mixing and correcting mistakes seem like best things for it
Great video, watched all the way through, I would love to see a video 3 months in, with them all heavily trafficked, and used and abused.
Keep up the great content, love your work!
Thanks
But which one is best at rimming? 😀
hey I'm buying one of each of artist opus and a da vici, you got any refers codes for any of them as you are adverting them? seems a shame for you not to get a quid or so from your work, Also i learnt more watching you paint during your review of the artist opus than in any number of your other videos. Most painting gods have probably been through the fine art track and forget that mere mortals really don't know the basics, like how to hold the brushes and what part to stick against the mini. In fact, until we see it, we didn't even know we didn't know it. Anyway, keep it up. Your dulcet tones help me de-stress and keep me addicted to the hobby of slapping paint on toy soldiers. Actually don't worry, I've just ordered. ill just show my appreciation by buying a membership.
Ha! No worries! Honestly I don't feel like I am advertising them, because I genuinely like those products, so I don't mind talking about them. If only AO was a bit cheaper, it would be like a perfect brush. I have tried Rosemary's brushes as well (as people suggest they are produced in the same factory) but it doesn't seem to be the same brush. Either way, I am excited for you to find out which one you like more. Thank you!
Has anyone used the Vallejo Pro Modeller natural hair brushes? I’m a beginner and am currently using their synthetic brushes but can’t get a sharp tip.
Video idea:
Make a brush out of your beard hair and paint a Mini with it. Preferably a very beardy one
I use the jethro tull method.
Buy cheap brushes, abuse the shit out of them, toss em when they are unrepairable. Buy new cheap brushes.
Same as Ian Anderson did with cheap starter flutes.
I use cheap synthetic brushes to do the heavy lifting for base coats and washes. It makes my expensive brushes last longer
I don't understand people buying artis opus brushes when you can have raphael 8404 for less...
Could you please make a video in which you will describe which techniques are unnecessary and which are worth using when painting, for example, an army? I know that it depends on the person, but what according to you is the minimum to make the whole thing look good?