The Best and Worst Hobby Tools for Warhammer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 พ.ค. 2024
- Which hobby tools for Warhammer are the best?
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I am painting miniatures for warhammer, age of sigmar, marvel crisis protocol, D&D and much more! Whether it is superhero miniatures, heroic characters or space marines, I will paint them! If you are looking for some sweet miniature painting tutorials or warhammer hobby content in general, this is the right channel for you!
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What do you think about reaper paint?
@@boostingaddict Reaper paints have a nice matte finish but doesn't flow so well so add some flow improver to counter that
Why would I receive a blessing from that Heretic Chaos God?
I am hoping the blessing will work 'cause right now I am just goobering around a bit 😂
I'm curious how he would rate the Vallejo Spray Can Primers @Zumikito Miniatures
I think the recent modeling world has kind of gotten confused about the purpose of primers and conflated them a bit with base coat paints. You can see this in the number of colors offered in acrylic 'primers'. Originally, the point of a primer was something that was designed to adhere very well to the base material (be it metal, plastic, resin, etc), and often relied on solvents and other etchants to make sure this was a good, strong, chemical bond. Also things like lead, if I recall, to help bond to metals. Modern ones don't have lead, of course, but the point is still the same, to make a strong bond to protect the underlying material and allow other paints to stick.
However, acrylic primers (the ones most often advertised as airbrush primers) don't really do that. I've dug in a bit, and aside from a little bit of polyurethane to make it a bit more flexible, it's nothing more than just a good, opaque acrylic base coat. Now, that's not a bad thing, but it's not really a primer either. With modern plastics, it's been a fairly moot point, since they and acrylics are designed to adhere together well, so everything just works. However, I've seen a couple of very good painters on youtube get surprised and frustrated when painting something like a metal or resin model (Tau Manta?) and the paint kept peeling off. That's because of a poor primer adhesion, and likely not even using a real primer, but an acrylic. I won't get into the pros and cons for one paint to do both jobs, but I think the fact that they are two distinct jobs and you sometimes need one or the other, is important, and we shouldn't confuse the job of a primer with that of a base coat.
If you dig into scale modelling, where they're more accustomed to random materials, you'll find a wealth of good information on primers and specifically some of the best to use. Invariably, they're all either lacquers or rattlecans, because they contain strong solvents. You can paint your plastic with them and it will never come off. It must be sanded off, because it becomes part of the plastic. Granted, that may be overkill for some things, but it does make a nice protective coating, and it ensures you don't have issues with resin mold release agents or other things. It can also allow you to do some interesting effects where you scratch through more delicate upper layers, because the primer won't let you just scratch through it with a fingernail or other plastic. Another fun trick is to do a black primer and white primer zenith highlight so you can strip the paint off and just go back to a proper primed, zenithal highlight. But there's other issues that might make that not work so well, too.
Anyway, I'd love to see a prominent painter do a real deep dive into the chemistry of primer paints and why some are important and some are just base paints to help educate the miniature painting community. It's something lacking in the videos I see and not everyone has the time to go research other hobbies and ancient alchemy to learn how to properly get paint to stick to everything. Probably needs some attention on the different types of paint solvents, like lacquers/solvent vs oil (model enamels) vs acrylic and true watercolors, too. Then maybe even talk about additives like polyurethane and others! I don't hear much discussion about that in the miniature community either.
PS: Your issue with the Humbrol varnish? Yeah, that's because it was probably a lacquer varnish. The best kind of protection for a miniature... but the oil probably bound to it making it a gunky black varnish of sorts. The solvent in oils can blend with the solvents in a varnish and then you just get a semi-permanent goo.
You speak right from my soul, nearly any figure i paint have some trouble with peeling off of the vallejo black primer (especially resin models) i clean them with soap and also give them a rinse with isopropanol and afterwards with water. Still have problems with it and i need some solution.
@@rockstrongo831 You'll need to find a lacquer based primer. The easiest would be those in a rattle can, but for airbrushing you can actually spray a rattle can primer into a cup (through a straw or something so it doesn't evaporate), or you could add a lacquer thinner to a normal acrylic.Test it out first in a little cup to be sure it doesn't gum up when you mix them. Some will. Just a note, but a primer that gives a smooth or satin finish isn't doing you much good. The point is to not only adhere well, but also let other paints adhere to it. Paint doesn't stick well to smooth surfaces. Citadel rattle cans can dry smooth sometimes, which is annoying. Acrylic beads up on it.
The best method is to just get an airbrush lacquer. Mr. Hobby Mr. Surfacer is a good one but might be hard to find. Tamiya's Liquid Primer might be a little easier to get hold of and works well too. For good rattle can primers, sandable automotive primers are good but sometimes go on a bit thick, so be careful. Mr. Hobby Mr. Surfacer or Tamiya Primers are both very good.
However, lacquers are very dangerous to breathe in or get on your skin. It's not just about paint particles in your lungs, it's also very toxic. Make sure to have a mask and plenty of ventilation. Also, go very easy and light coats with it. It WILL dissolve plastic. You want just a thin layer to adhere and build it up slowly, letting each one dry (it dries in 30 seconds). It's a bit more work, but they're the gold standard in paints for a reason.
@@stormycatmink thank you for your detailed answer.
Thank you for this post mate. While I'm recently new to the hobby; one thing I'm not new to is painting. So, as a result, I'm aware of how a good primer is supposed to work (And even slightly aware of some of the chemicals) but I'm *not* familiar with the primers associated with the hobby or what's in them. This post probably saved me a bit (or a lot) of frustration.
I'll be buying a good Lacquer based primer from Wal-Mart tonight.
I've been rewatching all of your guides as I've been trying to learn new stuff / hone my skills and you've helped so much it's just nuts. Keep being awesome 😎!
It’s weird this is the second time I’ve seen a channel say Army Painter was super glossy. I find them to be extremely matte. Very strange
Same. I don't find them shiny. For that matter, I've never had the issues that most people have with AP. If anything I've had worse problems with Citadel. Maybe it's the way I paint? I dunno.
The shades definitely do get glossy, normal paints not so much
@@tomg7913 Shades yes agreed
The worst thing about the army painter "primer" is, it doesn't fully dry and stays sticky forever, now I have fingerprints on some edges of my landraider and a lot of my armies bases.
@@aaronbrown4275 same here. I’ve never had a problem with army painter except for white drying out a little faster than the others which would clog the tip sometimes while mid paint session but citadel has even worse and more problems with their whites and greys (AP grey has always been great for me) on top of all their pot problems. Fuck AP primer though they’re right in that I didn’t like it.
Love these kind of videos, I'm a sucker for buying accessories and products to help with painting whether I need them or not, so now I have a few more items to add to the shopping list.
Cheers!
I use curved tip squeeze bottles for having water on hand when needed. Less chance of spillage. Much easier to control how much you use.
These are great!! Just picked some up this weekend with my first airbrush and they're so useful.
As a poor I get a smart water bottle with the "sport tip". I also put some painters tape around the bottle so I don't accidentally drink my air brush cleaning mix , hopefully.
This is freaking cool idea! Probably maybe do a tier list for specific colors? Like: Which is the best white? The best black? would be a great point of reference for new painters! As always, an amazing video Zumikito (Ps. you are S Tier paint bro
Vallejo model color black, monument hobbies pro acryl titanium white.
The whole pro acryl range is great, but ultra matte.
Love Vallejo Black. Goes on so nicely and is really Matt which I find makes it easier to highlight.
Corax White needs to be very warm to come out smooth. I usually boil some water, pour it in a bowl and place the can in the bowl for like 10-15 seconds. shake before and after, and you're good to go. I also found that the grainy surface can be counteracted by using a dry drybrush and dusting it all over the mini to remove the grainy particles :)
but yeah, it's terrible
Just an addition to the transporting models bit, don't bother buying dedicated miniature transport cases for magnetised mini, a metal cantilever tool box is much cheaper, much stronger, lockable, and is basically guaranteed to outlive you, let alone your army, just make sure you know how tall your models are so you can buy one with enough space inside, picked one of those beauties up for about £30 (40-50euros ish) and I have never even bothered looking at the dedicated miniature cases since, toolbox for the win!
That was an impressively thorough work you've done here :) I appreciate the effort and my ever growing hobby shopping list has definitely been corrected for the better. Thanks!
This is such an useful video. Always on the lookout for paints, but most TH-camrs hype their own stuff without coming into the details. This is absolutely fantastic quality content.
I put this in Tier S.
Thanks so much for keeping the paints explanation so short and clear. I just can’t watch a video for ages to find out which paint to buy. Top job!!
half an hour packed with information, thank you a lot. I find this very helpful!
This was a really nice video, good job on explaining why you put things where you put it. I also think that something like this is really useful for beginners and people who have been in the hobby for a long time because there's a lot out there and always nice when you can see some kind of review. Keep up the good work!
This is amazing that your production, your talent in painting and explaining, and maybe your joyful bearded face made you my favorite videographer in this hobby. Please continue your outstanding job on this platform ! And thanks, thousands thanks to you indeed.
What a comprehensive tier list! Well done Zumikito!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
I find these kind of videos quite informative as the knowledge here represents the accumulated experience from skilled painters such as yourself, and I believe it gives value to the community by helping us improve our equipment and focus more on practicing techniques.
I have only army painter colours and i have to agree- but i noticed that its very dependend on which surface you paint them. They tend to get glossy on smooth surfaces like 3d printed minis, but on more rough surfaces they work pretty well. I will get myself some citadels too and will test them out because i noticed the same issue
These videos are really helpful. I like your no-nonsense style, to me it feels like casually sitting down with a friend, chatting about the way he is doing things. I prefer this approach of getting shown things I'm interesting in.
Thx a lot man!!! Amazing video chart!
Great video. As others here have said, I really like these kinds of videos. Also, It would be awesome if you could make one about all the paints you like/dislike in the future. Which ones you think are must haves etc. Btw, Thanks for the great content.
Keep them coming buddy, and your humour does make me chuckle!
Really cool and helpful video! Thank you!
Thanks Zumikito, very helpful. More please.
Made it to the end! Thank you for making this. Must have been a boring one for you, BUT, really helps us plebs. You’re a gem ❤️
i got the lamp you recommended it looks wonderful! i will have to paint with it now! hopefully i can live up to the standard it sets! :) thank you so much for the suggestion!
Great videos!
Also try DSPIAE nippers, they are expensive, but make extremly smooth cuts and save a huge amount of time on cleanup.
I loved this I am still very new to miniature painting so this was a enjoy to watch!!!
So many usful tips and tricks. Thanks bro.
Yesss finally another long-form video 🙏🏻
I like reverse tweezers, also known as cross lock styles. Put pressure on to grab the item or release, then let go and it's gripped. Very handy.
Love hearing about hobby tools and paints 🙌🏻
I have a small battery powered engraving tool which I found some diamond tips for, they sold em in The Range for about £6 and the tips from Boyes for like £3 I think. Really great tool for making recesses for magnetising stuff.
This kind of video is great to sit and watch while you paint. Plus I think your Epic Beard(tm) deserves and S class ranking - a very essential hobby tool.
Awesome video, vey informative and helpful
Great vid and the bit about the cheap air brush has me thinking about looking into them and not starting with the iawata which is what i have been saving up for :)
Dude Thank you - Thank You - for being so real - So honest with your opinions. - I value them immensely ❤
Fantastic video, thank you kindly!
Great video love the tips, but I would add a mini vortex mixer to your S list, such a game changer I found with shaking my pots and bottles.
I got the lamp you linked in a previous video, it's great! But if you have too harsh a light, tape some parchment paper over the lamp. It's what we do in the photo/video industry when we don't have fancy softboxes.
Re: pigments
Artist pastel chalk is typically cheaper, larger selection of color, and can be had in sets or individually. They can be ground on sandpaper, files, et cetera to the desired coarseness.
I've been using army painter primer for a few years. It seems to me that for best results you need to shake it thoroughly and then apply very thin coats, basically barely pressing onto the nozzle.
the thing is - base paints, due to them being "dense" are somewhat more efficient. 12ml of Mephiston red was enough to paint a LOT of blood angels basecoats, while corresponding 18ml from Vallejo Model Color actually ran out more quickly. Qualitywise they are more or less on the same level but huge plus for VMC for... the darn bottles - citadel pots are terrible as a lot of paint gets wasted on the pot itself (dries out around this tipy thing from which You should get paint from).
Anyway - as always, excelent material and 30 minutes of lunch break certainly not wasted! :)
Oright, I was wrong. Got myself a Vallejo Model Color black - damn, it's thick and nice. And the bottle is as good as it was for dosing paint. I think I'll be giving Vallejos second chatce after all
As much as I hate the pot lids, I find that I can take out much less paint than comes out of dropper bottles, so if I need to paint a tiny detail like eyes, instead of having a whole drop of paint, I can instead just take less than a 10th of that out of the pot with the brush.
But, this is always a contentious discussion across every mini community :D If GW were less greedy fucks, I think people could forgive the pots much easier.
@@Smilomaniac That's true... so true... I mean, I am a lasy ass so i get couple of tones of each color so I don;t have to mix paints that much (in the long run it's actually better cause I waste less) and I like the tones and overal performance of GW paints - they are quite good, even white scar with which i haven't had a single issue... Well, i guess it all depends on a personal preference and a bit of blind chance...
@@Smilomaniac Exactly exactly. You can't do less than a medium drop with a bottle, but you can get exactly one brush of paint easily from Citadel. I never see anyone talking about that. Also those seals are good forever so they outlast Vallejo too.
@@kevinalford take the dropper bottle, gently squeeze and drag along the pallette. It's waiting for a drop to form that causes problems. So just place the bottle directly to your pallette, and squeeze as much or as little as you'd like.
Loved this video, thanks!
Agree with most of these. I'd add Pro Acryl to A tier paints and primers, possibly even S!
Good tip on that loctite glue, I'm definitely going to try that.
I have to say army painter air range is great for brush paint straight out the bottle and knowing how contrast 1.0 works I actually like using them over gw . I always cheer for the underdog and using a varnish to then layer isn't a big deal . This list is still super helpful and definitely helps a beginner like me to know how to make sense of such a busy market
I'm very encouraged by you using a $5 airbrush. I got an airbrush and compressor together for real cheap and have been using that combo. I have issues and wondered if getting a more expensive airbrush and compressor will help. After what you said, maybe it's the user and not the tool. It will be easier and cheaper to change the user. Thanks!
thanks for the lamp tip!
Good lamp greatly improve the result
For Army Painter products I can recommend washes - they play really well and have nice range of shades, good price too. Their basings are OK as well.
Their new AIR range is also getting rave reviews from pro painters like Trovarion and Juan Hidalgo recommending they ditch their full original range for this new one, as it's performing as well as for airbrush painting as traditional hand brush.
Great video man ! :)
Have the same wooden painting handle. Pull the wire rest out and flip it upside down. Us that in your palm with a finger tip grip and the whole thing becomes much more stable. Not an always move but perhaps for filming it could be even better than the shallow block!
i use my old GW paint pots as painting handles after i transferred the paint to droppers, i just filled the pots with airdrying plaster to make them heavy so they dont tip over and blu tack to hold the minis on top.
Loved that video. DO MORE LIKE THAT ,learned sooo much . Thanks . First video ghat I actually wanted to like. Def S tier video :)
Micro Sol can be used with Micro Set to cause the transfer to form over the surface, especially if the surface is not smooth (a dry glossy area under the transfer is even more ideal).
The silicone brushes are great for pigment powder as well
Thx for the info, very usefull video.
I love AK 3rd generation paints and Graphene Grey from Scale75 is a must have (of course both are my opinions).
There is one huge trick with plastic glue, use Tamiya airbrush cleaner as glue (same recipe than glue) but 75% cheaper.
Nice stuff, I like the video, I need to try Da Vinci brushes, been Winsor & Newton for too long and they're becoming hard to get. Also on Scale 75 - my beef with those is the pigment separation in those, but I love the finish and never experienced any chalkiness. They are a tad more difficult to use due to the finish though. The super-matte finish looks great for the most part though.
Black and white for dramatic effect! Thanks for the tips
I really can't agree on the artis opus dry brushes - I've painted lots of terrain with makeup brushes and lots of models with the opus brushes and they're lightyears ahead imo. Definitely use makeup brushes for terrain though, they're incredibly good for the price!
Great video.
Super helpful! Would love to hear your thoughts on portable air compressors!
You should check for Wowstick eletric hand drill. It's amazing. Got them seeing Midwinter Minis and Sorastro using it
Awesome "basic tools" review, Sir! It's great to get an honest opinion/evaluation instead of a commercial for one brand!
Loved it. Showed me a lot of things I was thinking on & stuff I'd like to try.
Can you do a video on green stuff world products, mainly the inks/color shift paints please
My first purchase from GreenStuffWorld hasn't arrived yet. They're in Spain (I think) & I'm in Texas. It's not their fault but I didn't give a thought to international shipping woes & I'm regretting it.
Very interesting, but which primer from AP did you try? I use alien purple and it is very good. Also the colormatch to the dropper bottle is an advantage. So I also disagree to your AP basic color decission. Regarding golden paints I recommend to try fluid and high flow acrylics
I 3D printed my wet pallet and i use it with kitchen papertowels. Nothing fancy and works great. Also i printed painting handles, different designs and quality, but all works.
About brushes, i had never bought real expensive brushes. Just the cheap ones and mostly works fine. I take care of them of course, keep them dry an clean all the time.
Прекрасно! Делайте, пожалуйста еще такие видео!
Wonderful! Please make more videos like this!
Vortex mixer! this is such an awesome addition to the desk. If you havent already, you should try it out, and watch it shoot straight to S-tier.
Listen to this man! A Vortex mixer is the reason I paint at all, nowadays - don't paint with a tired arm!
Great but also 100% luxury item.
as a new painter, i switched from black to white primer and while the white primer seems to... miss? the mini in some spots, i like how honest it makes me to paint the FULL model.
I was about to buy lots of army painter products for a mantis warrior primaris army many thanks fella perfect timing lol 😂 saved me £110
Only one i didn't agree with is mirco sel/sol. That stuff is decal magic. A tier all the way, everything else i felt you got it right on the money. Great video :)
Great video. Can you make a video on how to do a LARGER transfer. I've mastered the shoulder pad ones..but the big ones *always" fold up or rip or just look like a pile of crap ....maximum frustration
Lineo brushes are awesome! Finally someone gave this company a shout out. Just remember to buy 190 series and get size 1 and 2.
No ProAcryl? Come on!
He didn’t have a tier high enough to put them in apparently.
I love pro acryl, thankfully I watched some videos about how much more you need to thin them for glazes. Titanium white is my favorite white by far. First time since I started painting that I actually purchased a set of paints and love all of them except one of the metalics. I do use a brush for everything though so no idea about how well they work with an airbrush.
Excellent video!
I routinely use humbrol gloss varnish through the airbrush, I don't know what the issue you had is about, I have zero issues with it. Though I'll be the first to admit I don't use oils nearly as much. I need to test this
Excellent video,shall try am interactive paints, cheers
Yeah!!! A new video!! Thank you!
Glad to see you here!
@@Zumikito watched twice already. Great video. Will buy some of your recommended items. I really agreed with 90% of the items. 😁 Have you already tried Pro Acryl? Heard great things about it, but I'm curious to hear your take on them.
Agree with most of your ratings. Only thing I would say is don't buy overpriced "hobby" ball bearings to use as paint shakers. Big problem is that with dropper bottles they tend to block the nozzle. I use marine grade stainless steel M5 nuts which you can get in bags of up to hundreds very cheaply. I drop one or two in every paint when I first use it (and mark the bottle to tell me there is a nut in there) and they work a treat. Also they don't block the nozzle 👍😁
Army painter wet pallette is nice, has a brush storage section in it
I have one and I love it. The brush storage really helps to keep things organized and ready to go when want.
I have one and I love it. The brush storage really helps to keep things organized and ready to go when you need to.
If you dont want to use natural hair brushes, I can recommend DaVinci Nova Series. They have a great tip that holds pretty long and are much cheaper as they are synthetic
Nice video and agree on army painter except for the black, it’s absolute for one purpose only, base borders best black for this job
I'm just starting to get into miniature painting for board games and was wondering if you have any thoughts on using high-quality artist acrylics such as Daniel Smith or Winsor & Newton? I suspect that there would be more fiddling around with getting the right consistencies for various applications but I'm wondering if there might be problems with them adhering to a primer base or if would they just be useful for airbrushing as you discussed with the Golden Artist Colors? (I'm not too concerned with matte vs. semi-gloss, vs. glossy finishes as that can be compensated for.)
(I'm asking because it would be more convenient for me to have just one set of acrylics for both art and miniatures.)
Showing a bit of my age here, but I'm used to varnishing after I finish painting, so the gloss/satin/matte finishes of the paint themselves was never an issue for me. If you didn't varnish, paint chipped quickly and easily. Yes, I'm used to painting on metal, not plastic. Getting back into painting after a 10 year hiatus.
I love Vallejo and dropper bottles. I even did a little cheat - thinned down my base / layer Citadel paints and poured them into dropper bottles :) It's not only saving me money, as I waste less paint, but also storage is a lot easier to store them ! (I also moved contrasts to dropper bottles - just skipping the thinning step ;> )
I would also add : For any UK based viewers - if you looking for nice primers, try the acrylic primer paints from Halfords (I use their pure white, especially when I'm painting my TAU models (Vior'la sept)). It's absolutely one of my favourite primers. Nice smooth finish, it's actually pure white. And they are half the price of a regular primers from miniature oriented brands. (also no issues painting over it - it doesn't contain any water repellents, like some cheaper primers can ).
Micron is neat for doing text!
Also neat, you say Vallejo right haha, most people miss the "B" sound at the start.
Best mini painting tool is my handle. Its a water bottle 1/4 filled with beans. The beans shift to the bottom as you turn the mini while panting. Really good for stability
Have you tried Stynylrez acrylic primers from Badger? I'd rate them very close to Vallejo acrylic primers. Far from perfect since they are acrylic and will "roll" off if sanded/rubbed too hard, but otherwise excellent and relatively non-toxic.
Those cheap airbrushes are indeed great. I have a very nice DeVilbiss airbrush but I recently got two of those cheap airbrushes so I don't have to swap needles and nozzles all the time for the Vallejo primer. I find them to work at least as good as my old DeVilbiss with acrylic paints. Most of the times I even don't bother to take them completely apart when cleaning them: just pull the needle out and flush with a bit of airbrush cleaner and water.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the decal placement liquid could maybe substituted with windex. Works great way for placing lego stickers, but I dunno if it'd work for warhammer decals.
I really like this type of video. I want more please :-)
What about brush soap cleaner? I use Da Vinci 4033 series. It is cheap, and extreamly effective in protecting my brushes. DO you use any?
I love the chaos black primer. Ya I learned the hard way painting white over it lol. But I like it iv used a couple cans in my day. However .. I had a varnish spray can I think it was ? And this thing started leaking ! Now the varnish it self started to seal it lol. But it was dangerous. Super high presure can that could be the end of all your work. Or your face and eyes ect. I tossed it.
Second the hate for Citadel Corax White Primer. I've used it in many different weather conditions and temperatures, no matter how much shaking, or soaking in warm water, or whatever I do, it comes out as an adhesive dust. I've had to strip every model I've ever attempted to use it on. FWIW Grey Seer works great, and is usable as a primer for light colors.
I agree about corax white being grainy & army painter sprays.
I didn't even seen the video yet... BUT! I already liked, because you're awesome!
You might change your opinion once you finish watching lol
I agree with many things you said in this video! =) Totally agree with Army Painter paints... BUT you have to try out the new Speed Paint range of paints. They are pretty good.
Are you playing drums? Cause you have a bleb on left hand (base of middle finger), and that's a typical drummer wound! Or maybe you're a Lumberjack...
Since you've listed a couple of plastic glues including the super thin one with option to thicken it by adding leftover sprues, I'm pasting my comment originally written under one of Squidmar's vids.
Plastic glue protip! Most plastic glues (all the ones you showed in this video) are a solution of plastic (polystyrene) in butyl acetate, sometimes with some other add-ons. Which means you can revive a "dried" plastic glue - usually becoming half a bottle of transparent plastic - just by adding butyl acetate. And that "sprue goo" is therefore the same solution but with more polystyrene in less solvent. You can also make your own plastic glue by simply dissolvin sprue leftovers (transparent polystyrene for that professional transparent look) in butyl acetate. Which costs close to nothing, 1 Liter for 10 Euros in my local chemistry store.
That extra thin tamiya glue trick with the sprue has me curious! How much sprue vs glue should be in there?
If I remember correctly add enough sprues to fill half of the remaining glue. Insanely useful and is the reason my green stuff has gone so neglected.
A note about Micron technical pens: I freehand all my space marines' chapter and sqaud markings with them. For those of us running homebrews or "literally who"s and don't want to make our own waterslide transfers, it's way easier than using a brush.
they look like felt tip pens, does the ink stay on the models or can you fill them with paint?
@@danielscrimgeour8812 the ink stays on the models, but it dries slower than paint and streaks when being painted over or touched more easily. I'd recommend airbrushing a small amount of varnish over the parts you used the pen on before continuing since it's easier to smear them. Once varnished they're fine, though.
Ok I might need to try that super glue, all the other one I have just dries out how thick is it?
I use the Micron pens to paint Text on scrolls and such, I would never use them for recess shading... As for foam transport, you should consider that there are companies like Feldherr that offer customized foam parts that just fit perfectly... If space is an issue, when storing whole armies, foam is preferable over magnets.