Cool idea using an internal structure to reinforce a print, but I would suggest a couple of changes. First, using more walls on the mandible will make it much stronger without increasing the infill. Second, on the internal skeleton, I would also use more walls (at least 4) and reduce the infill from 100% to maybe 40%. Additional walls will have more impact on the strength than adding infill, and this might save you some material.
Yes I totally agree. I think that I should have touched on that in this video but my focus was to show my viewers how to think out side of the box. I do agree that additional walls would have been great. I rarely would use 3 walls on a large print. Thanks for the support and discussion!
Not at a point in my 3D printing journey where I will use this tehnique but have it filed away in my nice to know and wonder if I'll ever use it. You never know.
Sounds good! If it sparks an idea in the future then it was worth the watch! It's all about building knowledge and new techniques! Hope to see you back for more!
One note from beginning, just right click on the model and “add part”. This lets you add anything, even another model. As a part you can move it anywhere and it doesn’t fall to plate.
Thanks so much for your comment. I can use that to design objects with internal structures in exactly the same place in CAD, export the object as one STL , the internal structure as another STL and when I import the object and 'ADD part' the structure : it gets added exactly where it was (does not fall to the plate). Ran a few short tests and the slicer does not slice exactly what I had in mind , but the ability to change infill and wall loops separately opens up an interesting way of making stronger and lighter prints. Of course if you spend hours to modify a part for a few percent of gain, when more wall loops would do the trick, I wouldn't bother. In industry ,where shaving of a few percent of production cost will save you money if you're producing thousands of parts.
@@brianwild4640 yes you are correct. That is best to use pla as a support material. I am not sure if you got the idea that I was saying to use them together but that is not what I meant.
Wow, amazing tutorial. Without a doubt your videos have been of great help and are quite clear for those of us who do not have much experience. You explain and give tips at the same time. Waiting for more videos
Thanks so much for your video. I can use that to design objects with internal structures in exactly the same place in CAD, export the object as one STL , the internal structure as another STL and when I import the object and 'ADD part' the structure (thank you Joescalon541 for the 'add part' remark) : it gets added exactly where it was (does not fall to the plate). Ran a few short tests and the slicer does not slice exactly what I had in mind , but the ability to change infill and wall loops separately opens up an interesting way of making stronger and lighter prints. I have been designing in CAD and 3D printing functional parts for 8 years, but I only just now started to look at other functions of the Slicers since I bought an X1C, so your videos are very, very useful.
Good tip! one thing I've been doing for years is making a screw hole to insert a rod screw that i cut a grove into one side to drive all the way in with a flat head screwdriver. Although this does mean you have to go into CAD and cut out the plug to cover the hole.
Cool idea using an internal structure to reinforce a print, but I would suggest a couple of changes. First, using more walls on the mandible will make it much stronger without increasing the infill. Second, on the internal skeleton, I would also use more walls (at least 4) and reduce the infill from 100% to maybe 40%. Additional walls will have more impact on the strength than adding infill, and this might save you some material.
Yes I totally agree. I think that I should have touched on that in this video but my focus was to show my viewers how to think out side of the box. I do agree that additional walls would have been great. I rarely would use 3 walls on a large print. Thanks for the support and discussion!
Not at a point in my 3D printing journey where I will use this tehnique but have it filed away in my nice to know and wonder if I'll ever use it. You never know.
Sounds good! If it sparks an idea in the future then it was worth the watch! It's all about building knowledge and new techniques! Hope to see you back for more!
One note from beginning, just right click on the model and “add part”. This lets you add anything, even another model. As a part you can move it anywhere and it doesn’t fall to plate.
Your right 👍 great tip 💯
Thanks so much for your comment. I can use that to design objects with internal structures in exactly the same place in CAD, export the object as one STL , the internal structure as another STL and when I import the object and 'ADD part' the structure : it gets added exactly where it was (does not fall to the plate). Ran a few short tests and the slicer does not slice exactly what I had in mind , but the ability to change infill and wall loops separately opens up an interesting way of making stronger and lighter prints. Of course if you spend hours to modify a part for a few percent of gain, when more wall loops would do the trick, I wouldn't bother. In industry ,where shaving of a few percent of production cost will save you money if you're producing thousands of parts.
Thanks for sharing, some great information 👍
No problem 👍Glad to have you here and thank you for the comment.
Don’t use petg with pla as the do not bond very well together
@@brianwild4640 yes you are correct. That is best to use pla as a support material. I am not sure if you got the idea that I was saying to use them together but that is not what I meant.
Wow, amazing tutorial. Without a doubt your videos have been of great help and are quite clear for those of us who do not have much experience. You explain and give tips at the same time. Waiting for more videos
I appreciate that. I always have more in the works. Usually working on 3-4 at a time. Thanks for the support!
Thanks so much for your video. I can use that to design objects with internal structures in exactly the same place in CAD, export the object as one STL , the internal structure as another STL and when I import the object and 'ADD part' the structure (thank you Joescalon541 for the 'add part' remark) : it gets added exactly where it was (does not fall to the plate). Ran a few short tests and the slicer does not slice exactly what I had in mind , but the ability to change infill and wall loops separately opens up an interesting way of making stronger and lighter prints. I have been designing in CAD and 3D printing functional parts for 8 years, but I only just now started to look at other functions of the Slicers since I bought an X1C, so your videos are very, very useful.
@@Trust_me_I_am_an_Engineer that is great happy to be helpful for you! 😀
Really impressed with this method. Thanks for making the training video!
@@markrobinson7831 no problem, glad you enjoyed it. Happy to have you as a viewer!
Good tip! one thing I've been doing for years is making a screw hole to insert a rod screw that i cut a grove into one side to drive all the way in with a flat head screwdriver. Although this does mean you have to go into CAD and cut out the plug to cover the hole.
Stay tuned I have some stuff in the works!
Really cool and useful tip thanks for the video
No problem glad you enjoyed it
Great idea and very well presented as well. Thank you for the training.
Glad it was helpful! 😁
Just starting out with 3D printing and using the Bambu studio app. Great tutorial and easily understood by a complete beginner. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful. If you are just starting out I would definitely recommend watching my Complete Bambu Studio Tutorial. You will learn a ton!
@@bambamprint It’s on the to-do list!
This is great 🎉 Thanks for sharing!!
Thanks for watching and being a supporter!
great video
Thank you for the comment glad my Bambu Studio tutorial was helpful