A couple of comments/notes. The Inner/Outer/Inner is normally the best choice for wall ordering if you have 3+ walls. That's because the initial wall laid down is in the inner most wall, which allows for any pressure issues/oozes/etc that occurred when switching layers/objects to be dealt with dealt with on a line that will never be seen. Immediately after that wall comes the outer most wall, where it should then be printed super cleanly having addressed any nozzle issues on the inner most wall with no inner wall immediately next to it which might accidentally push it out. The subsequent remaining inner walls will then be printed and if they get a little squished then that's OK as they will not be seen. The default Inner/Outer can lead to issues where the outer wall can be pushed out just slightly (more line ridges on the outer wall) if there were any issues with the inner wall when it was put down. The optional Outer/Inner can provide a smoother exterior wall as you noted, but if there are any pressure issues/oozes/etc when the printer goes to put that outer wall down then that can change things. That's why I try to stick with 3 walls & inner/outer/inner on prints where the look of the outer wall is critical. Otherwise, I tend to go for Outer/Inner if I have 2 walls and I am more worried about the appearance of the outer wall, but that isn't fool proof and could have issues with overhangs since the outer wall has nothing to "grab on to" (which is arguably an issue with Inner/Outer/Inner as well). So much to consider with just this one setting. 🙂 I think you missed a very important aspect of the "only one wall on first layer" choice and that is physical appearance of the print. For example, if you are printing something like a cube that has the default only one wall on top layer setting enabled, but you don't enable this first layer setting, then as you rotate the cube you will see more of a difference between the top layer with 1 wall and the bottom layer with 3 walls (presuming your model had 3 walls). This can be jarring depending on the print, so I routinely turn this on when I want some sort of symmetry between the top and bottom layers of certain prints. A good example of this is a gold bar print I found on maker world that was printed at an angle, one side had 1 wall on it's "top surface" and the other side had multiple walls on its "bottom surface", and the resulting print just looked weird when looking at the gold bar straight down. I hope that makes sense. FYI Scarf joint seams don't work very well on silk prints. A scarf joint can hide the seam a lot better on a non-silk print as your video demonstrates very well, but when I tried it on a silk print it just made an inch wide discoloration on the print even though the physical seam itself was arguably better hidden. In that scenario the tradeoff of a physically smaller physical seam line for an inch wide marring/discoloration of the print isn't worth it to me, and I could argue that visually the single thin seam line is less noticeable. You didn't address this either way, so I just wanted to share my experience. I'm a big fan of what you are doing so please keep it up. I REALLY like that you put the version number of Bambu Studio you are using in the thumb nail, it's the little things like that which make your stuff look super professional. I wish you had been around 8 months ago when I started going deep into 3D printing as you would have save me so much time and so many head aches. 🙂
Great thorough comment! Thank you for taking the time to point these considerations. I will definitely be doing follow up videos so I will keep this in my back pocket. I am happy to have you here as a supporter!
Great videos - clear and concise. Helpful reference when you're stuck, looking for how to use a specific feature or just want a deeper dive into Bambu. Nick's videos are a super resource.
First time listener, first time caller. This video popped up as a recommendation in my feed and I must say I'm glad I clicked on it. Well informed and thorough video. You sir have earned yourself a like and subscribe. Keep the good content coming!
This is one of the best videos I've ever seen. I absolutely love how in-depth you get with each setting. Because the manual for orca slicer is very lacking in information about every setting. I haven't tried bamboo slicer but I know they are basically the same. So it was very helpful. I'm going to watch all of your other videos explaining slicer settings, and I am extremely interested in all of the videos you mentioned making in the future here. Such is the Arachne wall generation and the other comparison videos. This content is extremely useful and I would even consider breaking up each section into separate videos with that settings title name explained just so people can find specific stuff faster. But these grouped videos of settings are excellent as well
I was looking for a good tutorial like that for a long time! Thats weird that there is almost no tuts about EACH setting in Orca/Bambu so very often i needed to guess whats specific setting do and what can i use it for. Great job! Subscribed and gonna watch more your stuff!
Hi Nick, Thanks for the extensive detailed information which indeed is a lot to digest for a beginner. Actually I'm trying to find the acceptable ironing settings; and experimented quite a bit since I have this new A1. However my A1 and my friends' P1 show both a silmilar aspect. a relatively small surface of 80x40mm ( just 3mm thick) keeps showing a nice smooth surface in the beginning and then after some lines the ironing effect seems to work on and off touching the top layer but not smoothing it. adhesion to the plate is perfect so shrinkage is at least not noticeable. Can't repeat all I have done already but, hopefully you recognize the phenomenom and are able to hint me where I have to look. Temperature? Z- action? Cooling? Amount of top layers? rgds, Tom
Randomly I just looked at joining your channel as I wanted to support your work, but I noticed the amount is $5 a month. I want to encourage you to consider a smaller $2-3 range as there are a lot of other more established channels out there with a much bigger subscriber base that have their memberships in $2-3 range, so it's a little hard to justify the $5 for such a young channel. The only one I support at $5 a month is 3D Printing Nerd, and I struggle with maintaining it as that is a lot when you consider the other channels I support in the $2-3 a month range (he is pretty awesome though). This is not a dig at all, just an observation. If you have a number of people signing up at the $5 month fee then please feel free to ignore me, but if you have 0 this might be why. Either way keep up the great work. I also want to encourage you to consider joining the LenDizzle light stream Saturday nights, as I and others show off a lot of our prints for the week, share tips and tricks, answer questions, and show case models and filament. In short, it's a 3D printing nerd fest and I think you might enjoy it even if you don't actively participate.
Hey, I really appreciate your advice and help with all of this. To be honest, when I got monetized, I just enabled the default settings. I've added a few different membership levels now, but I had no idea people actually used the membership feature on channels. This is all new to me, so I'm figuring it out as I go. Thank you again for everything. It makes me happy to see people interacting with my channel. I still have a ton of work and ideas to accomplish, but time is always a challenge!
@@bambamprint Joined. 🙂 Are you an engineer? Your level to detail and the way you go about visually showing things leads me to think you are a fellow engineer. Keep up the good work!
I took a few engineering classes in school, but I've always been drawn to tech and design. Ever since I first touched a computer at seven years old (I'm 43 now), I knew how to navigate it. I guess I've always had a natural affinity for technology. I appreciate the membership subscription!
Ahh man I am so sorry! I am getting there. I have a huge backup of videos that I am desperately trying to get to. I promise it is on the list. Tomorrow or Saturday my part 2 advanced strength video will be going out!
@@leonardbrowning4943 the wall generator will not adjust with hole compensation. Good example: I had a square frame like in 12:45. The frame had a higher wall on one end and holes for mounting. When using the hole compensation, the holes were adjusted but so was the inside of the frame which left a small overhang on the higher end inside the frame. This could be fixed and more functional if hole compensation had an adjustable diameter limit to prevent such issues.
@@MisterkeTube if you can, I haven't found anything. I just made small test holes and adjusted the CAD. If you do find something, please let us know. It would be nice not to need CAD adjustments. 🍻
A couple of comments/notes.
The Inner/Outer/Inner is normally the best choice for wall ordering if you have 3+ walls. That's because the initial wall laid down is in the inner most wall, which allows for any pressure issues/oozes/etc that occurred when switching layers/objects to be dealt with dealt with on a line that will never be seen. Immediately after that wall comes the outer most wall, where it should then be printed super cleanly having addressed any nozzle issues on the inner most wall with no inner wall immediately next to it which might accidentally push it out. The subsequent remaining inner walls will then be printed and if they get a little squished then that's OK as they will not be seen. The default Inner/Outer can lead to issues where the outer wall can be pushed out just slightly (more line ridges on the outer wall) if there were any issues with the inner wall when it was put down. The optional Outer/Inner can provide a smoother exterior wall as you noted, but if there are any pressure issues/oozes/etc when the printer goes to put that outer wall down then that can change things. That's why I try to stick with 3 walls & inner/outer/inner on prints where the look of the outer wall is critical. Otherwise, I tend to go for Outer/Inner if I have 2 walls and I am more worried about the appearance of the outer wall, but that isn't fool proof and could have issues with overhangs since the outer wall has nothing to "grab on to" (which is arguably an issue with Inner/Outer/Inner as well). So much to consider with just this one setting. 🙂
I think you missed a very important aspect of the "only one wall on first layer" choice and that is physical appearance of the print. For example, if you are printing something like a cube that has the default only one wall on top layer setting enabled, but you don't enable this first layer setting, then as you rotate the cube you will see more of a difference between the top layer with 1 wall and the bottom layer with 3 walls (presuming your model had 3 walls). This can be jarring depending on the print, so I routinely turn this on when I want some sort of symmetry between the top and bottom layers of certain prints. A good example of this is a gold bar print I found on maker world that was printed at an angle, one side had 1 wall on it's "top surface" and the other side had multiple walls on its "bottom surface", and the resulting print just looked weird when looking at the gold bar straight down. I hope that makes sense.
FYI Scarf joint seams don't work very well on silk prints. A scarf joint can hide the seam a lot better on a non-silk print as your video demonstrates very well, but when I tried it on a silk print it just made an inch wide discoloration on the print even though the physical seam itself was arguably better hidden. In that scenario the tradeoff of a physically smaller physical seam line for an inch wide marring/discoloration of the print isn't worth it to me, and I could argue that visually the single thin seam line is less noticeable. You didn't address this either way, so I just wanted to share my experience.
I'm a big fan of what you are doing so please keep it up. I REALLY like that you put the version number of Bambu Studio you are using in the thumb nail, it's the little things like that which make your stuff look super professional. I wish you had been around 8 months ago when I started going deep into 3D printing as you would have save me so much time and so many head aches. 🙂
Great thorough comment! Thank you for taking the time to point these considerations. I will definitely be doing follow up videos so I will keep this in my back pocket. I am happy to have you here as a supporter!
Great videos - clear and concise. Helpful reference when you're stuck, looking for how to use a specific feature or just want a deeper dive into Bambu. Nick's videos are a super resource.
Happy to have you as a view Larry! Hope your day has been great!
First time listener, first time caller. This video popped up as a recommendation in my feed and I must say I'm glad I clicked on it. Well informed and thorough video. You sir have earned yourself a like and subscribe. Keep the good content coming!
Welcome aboard! Happy to have you as a supporter and viewer!
This is one of the best videos I've ever seen. I absolutely love how in-depth you get with each setting. Because the manual for orca slicer is very lacking in information about every setting. I haven't tried bamboo slicer but I know they are basically the same. So it was very helpful. I'm going to watch all of your other videos explaining slicer settings, and I am extremely interested in all of the videos you mentioned making in the future here. Such is the Arachne wall generation and the other comparison videos. This content is extremely useful and I would even consider breaking up each section into separate videos with that settings title name explained just so people can find specific stuff faster. But these grouped videos of settings are excellent as well
Your explanation is so good!
Thanks a ton! Super stoked you liked the explanation!
I was looking for a good tutorial like that for a long time! Thats weird that there is almost no tuts about EACH setting in Orca/Bambu so very often i needed to guess whats specific setting do and what can i use it for. Great job! Subscribed and gonna watch more your stuff!
Happy to have you as a subscriber and supporter! More great stuff coming soon!
great explanation in such a compact video. very useful as usual
Glad you liked it! My goal is to provide as much as I could in a short video! Happy to have you here!
😅 much info in a short time , great tutorial
Glad it was helpful! Happy to have you as a viewer!
An amazing overview. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it. Appreciate your comment and support on my channel! Awesome drawing work BTW!
Thanks Nick, great help!
You bet! Glad to see you here! Enjoy the rest of the week! More Bambu Studio content coming!
Hi Nick, Thanks for the extensive detailed information which indeed is a lot to digest for a beginner. Actually I'm trying to find the acceptable ironing settings; and experimented quite a bit since I have this new A1. However my A1 and my friends' P1 show both a silmilar aspect. a relatively small surface of 80x40mm ( just 3mm thick) keeps showing a nice smooth surface in the beginning and then after some lines the ironing effect seems to work on and off touching the top layer but not smoothing it. adhesion to the plate is perfect so shrinkage is at least not noticeable. Can't repeat all I have done already but, hopefully you recognize the phenomenom and are able to hint me where I have to look. Temperature? Z- action? Cooling? Amount of top layers? rgds, Tom
Awesome info thank you
Great video thank you ❤
Subscribed!!
@@TheLightworkz glad to have you here! Thanks for the sub!
Randomly I just looked at joining your channel as I wanted to support your work, but I noticed the amount is $5 a month. I want to encourage you to consider a smaller $2-3 range as there are a lot of other more established channels out there with a much bigger subscriber base that have their memberships in $2-3 range, so it's a little hard to justify the $5 for such a young channel. The only one I support at $5 a month is 3D Printing Nerd, and I struggle with maintaining it as that is a lot when you consider the other channels I support in the $2-3 a month range (he is pretty awesome though).
This is not a dig at all, just an observation. If you have a number of people signing up at the $5 month fee then please feel free to ignore me, but if you have 0 this might be why.
Either way keep up the great work. I also want to encourage you to consider joining the LenDizzle light stream Saturday nights, as I and others show off a lot of our prints for the week, share tips and tricks, answer questions, and show case models and filament. In short, it's a 3D printing nerd fest and I think you might enjoy it even if you don't actively participate.
Hey, I really appreciate your advice and help with all of this. To be honest, when I got monetized, I just enabled the default settings. I've added a few different membership levels now, but I had no idea people actually used the membership feature on channels. This is all new to me, so I'm figuring it out as I go. Thank you again for everything. It makes me happy to see people interacting with my channel. I still have a ton of work and ideas to accomplish, but time is always a challenge!
@@bambamprint Joined. 🙂
Are you an engineer? Your level to detail and the way you go about visually showing things leads me to think you are a fellow engineer.
Keep up the good work!
I took a few engineering classes in school, but I've always been drawn to tech and design. Ever since I first touched a computer at seven years old (I'm 43 now), I knew how to navigate it. I guess I've always had a natural affinity for technology. I appreciate the membership subscription!
Please do one on support settings 😢
Ahh man I am so sorry! I am getting there. I have a huge backup of videos that I am desperately trying to get to. I promise it is on the list. Tomorrow or Saturday my part 2 advanced strength video will be going out!
👍👍
Glad to have you here!
One problem with hole compensation: the program treats all holes the same and will adjust all of them. This could be bad for interlocking parts.
L😮😮😊 12:45
@@leonardbrowning4943 the wall generator will not adjust with hole compensation. Good example: I had a square frame like in 12:45. The frame had a higher wall on one end and holes for mounting. When using the hole compensation, the holes were adjusted but so was the inside of the frame which left a small overhang on the higher end inside the frame. This could be fixed and more functional if hole compensation had an adjustable diameter limit to prevent such issues.
Great tip! There are definitely some additions that would help make our lives easier. I am really hoping to see some more features for the cut tool.
Could you not limit the affected holes by using a modifier?
@@MisterkeTube if you can, I haven't found anything. I just made small test holes and adjusted the CAD. If you do find something, please let us know. It would be nice not to need CAD adjustments. 🍻