I've watched a few of your hvlp/paint videos now and always see you checking your spray before actually hitting the piece. I've just upgraded from my fuji semi pro to a mini mite 5, which doesn't have the PSI controller other than closing down the hose so I'm a bit worried of just having too much air going. I'm just wondering if you can explain a bit of what you're looking for when you're getting it dialed in on the paper. How do you tell if you have the correct atomization set? I'm going to use this 2k finish on a coming project so just want to make sure I'm properly set up right before I mix up a batch. You sprayed it here with a 2.0 tip but I'm thinking with this new turbine, I should be more at the 1.3 or 1.0 tip.
You want to see a nice oval shape with finely atomized material feathered out on the outside. If there are large particles mixed with small particles you need to either reduce the fluid or increase the air. Hope that helps!
Good timing. I'm about to spray my first 2k product actually so this helped me realize how straightforward it really is. What's the cleaning process/fluid you used to clean the gun? 🎯
Great video, Jeff~! I really like the info you've put out on spraying finishes. I'm a newbie sprayer and am trying to decide whether to dive into a turbine-based or airless system, or just pickup HVLP gear since I already have a 30gal compressor. I've seen so many using Fuji, Graco, Wagner, and some others. As a hobbyist woodworker, the majority of my finishing involves rattle-can lacquer, wipe-on poly, shellac, Danish oil, etc... I don't use paint that often. Any advice?
Thanks, Andrew! I guess it depends on what you’ll do most. If you plan on doing painting around the house as well as in the shop and airless might be the best choice. If shop only I’d grab a turbine unit. Conventional HVLP is definitely an option too. The PPS 2.0 gun that we use is about $400 for the starter set.
I've been using enduro 2k for about 6 months, I found I need to thin it out, I am spraying with a 1.8 tip, I can attest that stuff will start to harden in the gun in 4 hours lol
@@TodaysCraftsmenI’d be interested to know too. I imagine I’d need to thin it out with my Q5. I’ve been watching your videos and thinking about making the switch to Enduro
@@TodaysCraftsmen I use about 20% water, I use a compressor and cheap gun, I don't get any better results from a more expensive system, I tried them and it's all the same results in the end. I use the sanding sealer and then the 2k over it, I have used the conversion varnish as well that is a little thinner coming from them
Good stuff, Jeff. I may never use it but it's good to know.
Bill
Thanks, Bill!
Great video once again...🤘🤘🤘
Happy Thanksgiving to all of you at the channel.
Happy Thanksgiving! 🙏🏼
I've watched a few of your hvlp/paint videos now and always see you checking your spray before actually hitting the piece. I've just upgraded from my fuji semi pro to a mini mite 5, which doesn't have the PSI controller other than closing down the hose so I'm a bit worried of just having too much air going. I'm just wondering if you can explain a bit of what you're looking for when you're getting it dialed in on the paper. How do you tell if you have the correct atomization set? I'm going to use this 2k finish on a coming project so just want to make sure I'm properly set up right before I mix up a batch. You sprayed it here with a 2.0 tip but I'm thinking with this new turbine, I should be more at the 1.3 or 1.0 tip.
You want to see a nice oval shape with finely atomized material feathered out on the outside. If there are large particles mixed with small particles you need to either reduce the fluid or increase the air. Hope that helps!
Good timing. I'm about to spray my first 2k product actually so this helped me realize how straightforward it really is.
What's the cleaning process/fluid you used to clean the gun?
🎯
Nice! We read your mind.
Just cleaned it in the sink after I finished up spraying. Same as the 1k you just need to get to it before it kicks.
Great video, Jeff~! I really like the info you've put out on spraying finishes. I'm a newbie sprayer and am trying to decide whether to dive into a turbine-based or airless system, or just pickup HVLP gear since I already have a 30gal compressor. I've seen so many using Fuji, Graco, Wagner, and some others. As a hobbyist woodworker, the majority of my finishing involves rattle-can lacquer, wipe-on poly, shellac, Danish oil, etc... I don't use paint that often. Any advice?
Thanks, Andrew! I guess it depends on what you’ll do most. If you plan on doing painting around the house as well as in the shop and airless might be the best choice. If shop only I’d grab a turbine unit. Conventional HVLP is definitely an option too. The PPS 2.0 gun that we use is about $400 for the starter set.
@@TodaysCraftsmen Yes, the majority of the work will be in the workshop. Thanks much~!
Anytime! 🙌🏼
I've been using enduro 2k for about 6 months, I found I need to thin it out, I am spraying with a 1.8 tip, I can attest that stuff will start to harden in the gun in 4 hours lol
What percentage are you thinning? Just with water?
@@TodaysCraftsmenI’d be interested to know too. I imagine I’d need to thin it out with my Q5. I’ve been watching your videos and thinking about making the switch to Enduro
Our Apollo is a 5 stage and we typically don’t thin. I do sometimes thin the last coat just to make sure it lays out.
@@TodaysCraftsmen I use about 20% water, I use a compressor and cheap gun, I don't get any better results from a more expensive system, I tried them and it's all the same results in the end. I use the sanding sealer and then the 2k over it, I have used the conversion varnish as well that is a little thinner coming from them
I’m interested to try the CV