Hyundai Load 2010 2.5 Litre CRDI Turbo Diesel. No power down low, EGR Issue , Mechanical fault.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- Hyundai Iload 2010 2.5 Litre CRDI Turbo Diesel, had no power down low when inspecting the intake system we noticed a lot of carbon build up. once we removed the EGR valve we were able to see that the valve was stuck open.
this didn't throw any codes as the valve was functioning it was just that there was to much carbon around it to let it close completely.
we also did a DeCarbon to get rid of majority of the Carbon.
We do not just run fluids through the inlet manifolds any more it was proven not to work and only softened the Carbon up, We remove all the inlet manifolds to clean manually. Nothing will remove that Carbon only elbow grease.
We do have hot high pressure washers and sonic bath's that we use now. Much Better.
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1/2 Paton place, Balgowlah NSW, 2093
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I've had an Iload 8 years...twice in that time had real poor power and acceleration....misfiring under load, both times, changed fuel filter and wow..... massive improvement and problem sorted....great van, love it to bits.....VW T5.....nah....be different, be Iload.....👍👍
Great video, I was agreeing with all your comments about crap acceleration ! My Kia Sorento is running great now. Thanks
Thank you for this information i was place a new turbo but the car did not run well and my toths also was that the EGR valve was not working correctly
ok. Good luck
Mine is having the same issue, ill have to checkout that valve
Nice work ol mate👍🏻 Don't get me started on Dealers😡
good work Phil
Awesome video. Could you have put an egr blanking plate on and disconnected the egr electrical clip to test drive it. 4 bolts on the top right of the engine....there's a cast metal routing tube from the egr to manifold intake tube on my 2012 iload.
would be good to know as i have that problem with my iload that i have just bought
Phil, I'm curious if you have had the injectors out of this one?
This model is notorious for having the diesel injectors blow by the copper washers that seal the combustion chamber off from the rocker cover and the symptoms you describe can all stem from that small issue.
Thank you Jesus
Is it loads of work changing that egr valve? Are there different types of egr valves too? At my car parts they sell three types of egrvalves, the ones like yours, and the ones looking like a wastegate, and also some plastic looking housing with some electric connection on it. I'm guessing I have the same problem. I also got a check engine symbol on my dash, and when checking the generic code it said that the boost pressure was to high or something similar. And while reading about possible causes they mentioned the wastegate might not open or something like that. Is it maybe caused by the EGR valve aswell? A new turbo setup wasn't all that expensive either. I know there are many hyundais who has died due to turbo failure since deposits have build up on the oil pickup for the turbo. So I might change turbo, egr valve and also abs sensor before winter is coming... I recently bought the car... It's a 2008 iload or h1 as they are called in sweden, H1 starex.
Great video. Can i ask, did you have any MAF error codes? My ford transit 2.2 diesel has low power under 2000rpm, and is giving a MAF error. Do you think it's likely the EGR valve causing this error?
really appreciated..
phil, i have a 2011 hyudai starex crdi, already clean the egr valve cause it is loosing power during accelaratio and when i reach the rpm 3000 it dont want to give more feels like hesitating to give power, already rebuild the injectores and new rail sensor, but one thing i notice when i put the wire connector to the sensor the engine sounds like knocking, when i remove the connector it sounds ok no knocking, can you help me thank you
You should take the car to a mechanic to diagnose correctly
you sound like you're over this shit lol. I'm here because my nephew has an iLoad and I'm trying to help him save it by completing some common preventative maintenance, he just had the injectors done so now telling him to decarbon the inlet manifold, check oil pipe to turbo, change oil way more frquently, run manifold cleaner through it every service and check the oil pick up also. Has 200k on it, 2010 model. If only he'd asked me before he bought it.. This is another thing he needs to check I guess, bloody diesels are high maintenance like this.
These vans also have a habit of leaking past the injectors into the rocker cover, usually clogs up turbo oil lines and the oil pick up usually leading to failure for the turbo and engine depending on what blocks first.
Just about to change the injector washers in my iload i just bought, in which i suspect it has a new turbo due to all clean and rust free bits on 180000km 2010 engine
Mine went dead on the freeway a few weeks ago, wont start again. Little resistance on starter Engine. Think what you describe has happend to my car. What type off rebuild do you think im looking at?
@@fredrikdudat9810 exactly what happened to mine
@@matttzzz2 sad. Great van, but that's a bad built engine. If i had known about its problems from start i could have maintained it in a better way.
Hi is it hard remove this ERG for clean? i have Hyundai i800 and have code po401
Ive replaced the head which was severely warped.
I never got to test the car prior to fixing.
I have this issue you had but the EGR is working perfect.
Any other faults?
Van drives great and I'm about to do air and fuel filter.
EGR is shut at idle and opens when reving engine so I'm confident it's mint.
could be anything, air mass, injectors, intercooler, turbo, you need to get it to a mechanic to diagnose
@@PTPrecisionAutomotive all good, I'm a mechanic and been testing everything.
The can came to me dead so never got to test it or see running which makes it harder for us to diagnose.
I suspected turbo and sure enough it's stuffed.
Next I will pull sump and clean pickup and flush oil.
Cheers for responding 👍
I was thinking of buying a new one of these (2018) but found a bunch of forums where people complain about the turbos breaking. Do you reckon these are a good buy? If not what van would be your pick? Im trying to avoid all the euro 6 adblue stuff
No i would buy one , you get 5 year warranty anyway. BUT you need to service them.... or at least change engine oil and filter every 10,000ks....
Hi PHIL,
Great video. I have a Hyundai IMAX 2008 petrol auto model doing the same thing with 144k done on it. It is currently showing an error code P0016. Lack of power, hesitated to accelerate and engine heavy. Do you think these models also have an egr valve? I have been advised by my mechanic to check /test the oil control valve first. I am in Perth and currently need to get a second opinion/idea before getting it in for a proper fix rather than getting speculating opinions from various mechanics. Hope you can help. Thanks
P0016 HYUNDAI - Crankshaft Position-Camshaft Position Correction- Bank 1 Sensor 'A
Dirty Oil
Low engine oil level
Faulty Valve Timing Control (VTC)
Valve Timing Control (VTC)
harness is open or shorted circuit.
Valve Timing Control (VTC)
circuit poor electrical connector
Incorrect timing Engine mechanical problems
Damaged Engine
Control Module (ECM)
Thank you very much. Much Appreciated
Have you blanked off the EGR valve on a iload before? Or better to have EGR valve in?
no i haven't had to block them off
Thanks for that. I have the exact problem as this Iload. Except for the fact that the EGR has been replaced and made no difference other than the EGR code went away. Have you had any experience on other faults that could attribute to the same issue? Same as in 2000 rpm it almost feels like you are hitting the power band in an old school 2 stroke motorbike. Mine had the EGR code the EGR valve looked like it was corroded to open so we were confident just as you were that the problem would be solved but no change at all.
how did the throttle valve look before the egr, you may find that the valve may be stuck closed/ open or gunked up. the use that valve to make vacuum on intake to suck the exhaust gas through. without more information I cannot help you much
maybe an air mass meter or injectors
@@PTPrecisionAutomotive thank you for that. I will have a chat to my mechanics. Getting desperate. Am meant to be driving it up north in 6 weeks and it will be fully loaded as moving house. Need it to be back up to fully operational.
@@PTPrecisionAutomotive Dramas still continuing. The van has now had the EGR valve replaced, an induction clean and the injectors cleaned and checked. Also the turbo boost was checked. The mechanics said all were fine. Did a long drive on the weekend after the induction clean and made no difference. The mechanics I have taken it to are scratching their collective heads wondering where to go next. Any other ideas.
@@michaelrand6049 Sorry mate . you would need to get it to us. for correct diagnoses , all that is going on is a waste of time.
hey mate i have toyota hiace that keeps losing acceleration but keeps running and revving off its nut...
I had a kia preggio do that in the middle of traffic, the key in my hand and i was 10m away from the van but it was revving and smoking like crazy, scary. 10 minutes later and i drove it home very cautiously
hey mate! really enjoy the videos. which do you prefer. HiAce or iLoad? glad you're local.
is uncomfortable since you are sitting on the engine.
Hey mate anywhere I can get the workshop manuals for an iload?
the dealer would be your best bet
Should have done injector seals
Mine is soooo slow even after engine replacement, transmission kit replacement, road worthy certificate, etc.
I feel like changing the EGR but i already spent thousands on repairs
needs diagnosing
Where are you located guys? Can I visit you in Sydney?
we are located in sydney's northern beaches. 1/2 paton place balgowlah
I changed mine didn't work... Was maf sensor
That's why it pay's to have someone diagnose it correctly.
@@PTPrecisionAutomotive parts cannon
G’day guys, I assume this didn’t trigger an EGR code while still being faulty. What figures should I see for the EGR? Should it move much?
I though the EGR should be almost fully open when at idle but mine seems to sit at 4-7% regardless of whether on or off the accelerator.
Thanks, great vid
Great Video.. i'll bet ya $10 that turbo ended up blowing up 3 months later..
I actually wanted to buy a used one (2011 with 200,000km)..
But after my work mate's horror story with his, i'm reluctant to consider one.
His had an injector clamp fail, the turbo failed shortly after and then it spun a big end bearing.. he was servicing every 7500km.. this all happened under 200,000km! It's all back together now.. and it is a 'good' van, but is it worth the headach?!
Anyone know if the 2.4 (petrol) are more reliable?
can i have that $10 , it's coming in today for a service and still have not put a turbo on it.hahha
2.4 is a donkey
@@Djavo1 rather a donkey than flog a dead horse