Top tip for 35mm film… get yourself a film tab retrieval device (not much money) retrieve the film tab in daylight and cut the film corners rounded or 45° between sprocket holes. Then re wind the leader back into the cassette and process as per video in the changing bag. It saves using scissors in the bag (never a good idea in my mind) but more importantly this method gives you an accurate cut leader edge every time without the risk of cutting through a sprocket hole. I learned this method when I was developing Approx 10 rolls a week at the age of 12.
When I was in high school I didn't have a changing bag, so my method (which is probably overkill) was to close the pretty heavy curtains in my bedroom. Go into the closet and seal the crack under the door with whatever clothing had ended up on the floor. I had an old-school heavy duty cotton sleeping bag. I would crawl in backwards so my hands were at the bottom and then I would load the reel. It worked extremely well, although I don't recommend it in the summer and I really don't recommend it if you are claustrophobic
Man, this was one of my favorite parts of my darkroom photography class when I was in high school. My classmates and I would always time ourselves on how fast we could do this without messing up. I'm trying to get back to darkroom photography. I bought a new camera and my dad has so many others that I can't wait to start using again.
1) If possible, don't rewind the film all the way into the cassette. 2) if not, use a film retriever to extract the film. Reasons:a) trying to cut film to a specific shape and inserting in the wheel inside a bag is hard, instead, cut the film to shape, and start inserting it the wheel in daylight, then finish loading in the bag; b) reuse the cassette (to reload film) instead of making landfill with a pried open cassette. Or donate them to schools or the Film Photography Project.
YES, make it a habit to leave the end of the leader out when you rewind. (Some cameras with power rewind do this automatically.) Crease the last half-inch of the end to remind yourself that it's exposed and keep it from getting pushed all the way in later. Now you don't need scissors in your changing bag (which helps keep it from getting too crowded in there.) Instead, you can trim the exposed leader very neatly while working out where you can see it. Inside the changing bag, after you've loaded the reel, you can detach the film end from the spool by peeling off the tape (easy to do by feel with a little practice.) Some Ilford spools don't use tape; they have a little tooth that grabs the end of the film. You can just pull and the film will come loose. It's a small thing, but makes darkroom life a bit easier.
@@jlwilliamsImmediately after rewind, I cut the film lead to the trapezoid shape-serves as reminder that the film is exposed (& prevents reuse) and make it ready to insert later. In the field if I don't have scissors/ time, I throw exposed film into a separate clear bag labeled in red gaffer "TBDev" to separate them from unexposed film.
Apologies for my ignorance, but what could you reuse the used cassette for? I imagine you can load more film into it, but all new film should already be in a cassette?
I had a dark room for 20 years, stopped doing analog 30 year ago or something. Will be curious if all the years of practice putting the film on the reel and in the tank in n the dark will be etched in my memory and make it easier to use the bag :) I have no space for a darkroom now. I think I will use the bag in a semi dark bathroom at night anyway. Never hurts.
Thanks for this video. I have a question though. Do you need to put the developing solution into the tank before putting the tank into the bag and the film inro the tank? Or you can put the solution after you have propperly closed the tank inside the bag and you take it out in daylight? Thanks
Developing tanks don't let any light in, so once your film in on the spool and in the tank with the inner lid on, you can have it in the light. There's a outer lid that you take on and off to pour the chemical in, but the inner one stays on while the film is being developed.
Unfortunately when i tried this, the moisture buildup from my hands being in the bag for over an hour trying to do it by complete feel, 8 frames and a darkslide, between a tiny slit with an anti-light flap to work with, was almost impossible.. Ended up shooting out 2 frames at once not spreading the chemistry. I feel so fu**ing dejected
Top tip for 35mm film… get yourself a film tab retrieval device (not much money) retrieve the film tab in daylight and cut the film corners rounded or 45° between sprocket holes. Then re wind the leader back into the cassette and process as per video in the changing bag. It saves using scissors in the bag (never a good idea in my mind) but more importantly this method gives you an accurate cut leader edge every time without the risk of cutting through a sprocket hole. I learned this method when I was developing Approx 10 rolls a week at the age of 12.
When I was in high school I didn't have a changing bag, so my method (which is probably overkill) was to close the pretty heavy curtains in my bedroom. Go into the closet and seal the crack under the door with whatever clothing had ended up on the floor. I had an old-school heavy duty cotton sleeping bag. I would crawl in backwards so my hands were at the bottom and then I would load the reel. It worked extremely well, although I don't recommend it in the summer and I really don't recommend it if you are claustrophobic
Man, this was one of my favorite parts of my darkroom photography class when I was in high school. My classmates and I would always time ourselves on how fast we could do this without messing up. I'm trying to get back to darkroom photography. I bought a new camera and my dad has so many others that I can't wait to start using again.
not gonna lie we were in our...bag...for this video
Can you make a video about your CS6 kit and also show comparisons between the DynamicChrome, DaylightChrome and TungstenChrome developers?
Anyone else intimidated by all this elaborate process?
love it
Finally a video for an absolute noob like me
nice and tidy information!! thanks for nice content again.
1) If possible, don't rewind the film all the way into the cassette. 2) if not, use a film retriever to extract the film.
Reasons:a) trying to cut film to a specific shape and inserting in the wheel inside a bag is hard, instead, cut the film to shape, and start inserting it the wheel in daylight, then finish loading in the bag; b) reuse the cassette (to reload film) instead of making landfill with a pried open cassette. Or donate them to schools or the Film Photography Project.
YES, make it a habit to leave the end of the leader out when you rewind. (Some cameras with power rewind do this automatically.) Crease the last half-inch of the end to remind yourself that it's exposed and keep it from getting pushed all the way in later.
Now you don't need scissors in your changing bag (which helps keep it from getting too crowded in there.) Instead, you can trim the exposed leader very neatly while working out where you can see it. Inside the changing bag, after you've loaded the reel, you can detach the film end from the spool by peeling off the tape (easy to do by feel with a little practice.) Some Ilford spools don't use tape; they have a little tooth that grabs the end of the film. You can just pull and the film will come loose.
It's a small thing, but makes darkroom life a bit easier.
@@jlwilliamsImmediately after rewind, I cut the film lead to the trapezoid shape-serves as reminder that the film is exposed (& prevents reuse) and make it ready to insert later.
In the field if I don't have scissors/ time, I throw exposed film into a separate clear bag labeled in red gaffer "TBDev" to separate them from unexposed film.
Apologies for my ignorance, but what could you reuse the used cassette for? I imagine you can load more film into it, but all new film should already be in a cassette?
I had a dark room for 20 years, stopped doing analog 30 year ago or something. Will be curious if all the years of practice putting the film on the reel and in the tank in n the dark will be etched in my memory and make it easier to use the bag :) I have no space for a darkroom now. I think I will use the bag in a semi dark bathroom at night anyway. Never hurts.
Thanks for this video. I have a question though.
Do you need to put the developing solution into the tank before putting the tank into the bag and the film inro the tank? Or you can put the solution after you have propperly closed the tank inside the bag and you take it out in daylight? Thanks
Developing tanks don't let any light in, so once your film in on the spool and in the tank with the inner lid on, you can have it in the light. There's a outer lid that you take on and off to pour the chemical in, but the inner one stays on while the film is being developed.
so helpful!!!
What size bag is this ?
Our CineStill changing bag measures 27x30 inches
I recommend buying a dummy roll and practicing. I learned the hard way…. 😒
Lots of practice
i saved a roll i screwed up on just so i can use it to practice.
Unfortunately when i tried this, the moisture buildup from my hands being in the bag for over an hour trying to do it by complete feel, 8 frames and a darkslide, between a tiny slit with an anti-light flap to work with, was almost impossible.. Ended up shooting out 2 frames at once not spreading the chemistry. I feel so fu**ing dejected
Didn't do the medium format example! D:
Working on a whole other video JUST about loading film onto reels. We'll be sure to cover medium format then!
Probably because it's a lot harder!
Do not buy a cheap changing bag... you'll sweat in them. Ask me how I know