Water spots on your film HATE these simple tricks…

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024

ความคิดเห็น • 44

  • @linusandhiscamera
    @linusandhiscamera 2 ปีที่แล้ว +16

    been using these tips on all my home developed film since we shot this video! back in North Carolina the water didn’t leave spots, but in California it does. so helpful 😍😮‍💨♥️🎞

  • @DixonLu
    @DixonLu 2 ปีที่แล้ว +16

    Dust removal tutorial on how to minimize them b4 scanning. Esp home development where we don't have a dedicated drying cabinet with down flow filtered air.

    • @DiscreetNYC
      @DiscreetNYC 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thank you!!!!

    • @stratocactus
      @stratocactus 2 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      I let them dry in the bathroom tub. Bathroom is generally the less dusty room in a house. If you run some steam hot water for a minute in the tub, it will drag all the dust in the air with it. Then hang your negs to dry. In my experience it helps a lot.
      Also, static electricity is your ennemy. Don't wear clothes prone to static charge (like polyester fabric) and discharge yourself by touching something connected to the ground (washing machine for example). Otherwise the static charge you carry will transfer to the plastic base of your film when you touch it. And it will grasp all the dust around you.

  • @shaunhall8158
    @shaunhall8158 2 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    Very valid point on minerals, I bet many who say here they have no issue live in a soft water area. I love in SW UK which is pretty much a limestone plateau with very hard water. Totally agree with Linus on the distilled water, rinse many times! I do use Fotoflow but any small bubble will leave a calcium spot unless the PF is mixed with distilled water. I also have found drying the film too quickly increase water spots.

    • @pancakelens75
      @pancakelens75 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Oh man I live in Phoenix and we have the HARDEST water here, I always go full distilled

  • @AgnostosGnostos
    @AgnostosGnostos 2 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    There are many common non-ionic wetting agent liquids as a final rinse before drying films.
    They are not expensive, available in all film shops and the liquid can be used multiple times depending the hardness of tap water.
    It is the ideal and a secure method to avoid any water spots.

  • @mint2880
    @mint2880 2 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I use a soft cloth and my breath lol, thanks for the tips. Would love to see a future one about Newton rings

  • @Michael-w8v
    @Michael-w8v ปีที่แล้ว +1

    For Cs-41 kit. I believe there should be a new step in the between Step 4 and Step 5 where you pour the distilled water and agitation for about 1-2 minute before pour the color stabilizer. That way most mineral can be removed.

  • @eagle112800
    @eagle112800 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    It took months for me to figure out that it was hard water not dust that was causing this on my film, and after starting a final wash in distilled water with photoflo the problem resolved. Good video, good tips.

  • @pedlpower
    @pedlpower 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    The Kimwipe idea and technique is great! I'm going to try it.

  • @theblackandwhitefilmproject
    @theblackandwhitefilmproject 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I use a wet and rung out synthetic chamois cloth used for cleaning cars. Removes the water and most importantly scratch free.

  • @b6983832
    @b6983832 ปีที่แล้ว

    Standard C-41 includes a stabilizer, which is basically a surfactant (similar to Photo-Flo) and miconazole to prevent mold growing in the negatives. If you live in an area with hard water, mix this in distilled water. It should be enough to prevent water marks from forming. Some amateur kits may be lacking this chemical. Try Photo-Flo in distilled water instead, if this is the case. C-41 final rinse is also sold separately, but only in large quantities.

  • @buyaport
    @buyaport 2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Just use one or two drops of dishwashing soap (not more) and let it stand for one minute (not more). Then use the squeegee to remove the water and hang to dry. -- Using more soap or for a longer time might leave stain of the soap on the film.

    • @Meteotrance
      @Meteotrance ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I know a friend that using this method, it works but use a clear one and no more than one or two droplet before the final rince with distiled water.

  • @billnbrooks
    @billnbrooks 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    After main rinse, do two minutes with a wetting agent such as Ilfotol (1+200). Then two short final rinses with demineralised (or distilled) water. Dry in the least dusty area you have (shower cubicle is good).
    And NEVER squeegee ...

  • @jieelyuu
    @jieelyuu 2 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    A final rinse with photoflow + distilled water completely removes water spots for me. No inversion, 5 mins, wait until there is no bubble or get rid of all bubbles on the surface before get the reel out. No need for squeegee / Kimwipes at all.

  • @arnonart
    @arnonart 7 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    i'm not shooting film any longer but i DSLR most of my time. i started to photograph in 81 and accumulated a huge stockpile of material on films. both negative positive and B&W. some of the negatives are very dirty, even though i tried to preserve them the best i can. i do wash the negatives from time time prior to scanning cause the camera doesn't have any dust removal tool. before i dry them i dip the negatives in Agepon solution. fortunately i have a bottle left since the happy film days. the water round here contain a lot of calcium and this agent is clearing the surface almost perfectly. this bottle i'm using i bought in 1984! and i still have some left. it's still can be purchased online. AGFA wetting agent Agepon.

  • @hyper_focused
    @hyper_focused 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Thank you!

  • @tiimm0002
    @tiimm0002 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    thanks mate, great video

  • @pedrosolorzano1
    @pedrosolorzano1 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for the video. 👍

  • @ManyDoors777
    @ManyDoors777 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you!!!!

  • @orion7741
    @orion7741 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    you forgot the most common way of dealing with them. cotton balls (or microfiber) and rubbing alcohol! before printing or scanning, you really need to give the negatives a quick wipe with that. it will remove any dust particles and any water spots and is completely safe.

  • @chilezp
    @chilezp 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    That’s big my biggest problem with developing film.

  • @hughmungus7425
    @hughmungus7425 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Kimwipes absolutely wrecked my film negatives. Should I not use it in combination with archival film washing?

  • @aaronledesma7355
    @aaronledesma7355 ปีที่แล้ว

    One question? Do you have a kit that develops color negatives film 🎞️

  • @davecarrera
    @davecarrera 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I do the final wash using distilled and have no issues.

  • @Mamo878
    @Mamo878 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Still getting water spots using both distilled water _and_ Kodak Photo-Flo 200. Grrr.

    • @billnbrooks
      @billnbrooks 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Reduce the amount of photoflow and do a final rinse with just distilled water

    • @orion7741
      @orion7741 ปีที่แล้ว

      before scanning or printing, just get a cotton ball with rubbing alcohol and wipe your negatives. it will instantly remove and water spotting and dust.

  • @Sunday_Jazz
    @Sunday_Jazz 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Wet? Paterson squeegee. Dry ? Isopropyl and micro fiber cloth ☀️

  • @Meteotrance
    @Meteotrance ปีที่แล้ว

    There no way i wash my negative film with regular tap water i live in a hard water area, so only small amount of distiled water should do the work, i know a photo friend who also do homebrew devellop, he recomend me to use dish washing liquid as a photo Flow, just a small drop it's do the job before the final rince.

  • @randallstewart175
    @randallstewart175 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    A related tip for drying without dust. If you don't have s drying cabinet, and most do not, consider buying one of those old-style hanging bags designed to store hanging clothing. Hang it in a closet, and hang your film inside to dry. If you want to do further, flex tube in warm air from a source, like a hair dryer, cutting some small holes in the bottom of the bag to exhaust. Do some sort of air filter over the warm air intake.

  • @ChDe
    @ChDe 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Flattening negatives please! Leaving them under weight takes a long time

    • @buyaport
      @buyaport 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Put them into an archival sheet after they are completely dry, roll the sheet sideways and use two or three rubber band to keep this tube together. Works faster than putting heavy weights on the negatives, but might still take some days. -- Kodak Ektar 100 and Portra 400 don't need flattening, they are perfectly flat when dry.

    • @orion7741
      @orion7741 ปีที่แล้ว

      to get flat negatives, you need to weight the film while it is drying. It does not take too much, I use large binder clips with a few large sized nuts (as in "nuts and bolts") hot glued on them to act as the weight. having the bottom end of the negative strip weighted as your negative dries makes for nearly totally flat negatives.

  • @dersy
    @dersy 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    God bless

  • @alistairmerrifield5035
    @alistairmerrifield5035 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I use a salad spinner. (I’m not kidding, it works well).

    • @allmediaguy1
      @allmediaguy1 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

      same, really works good

  • @andrewbuckler
    @andrewbuckler 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    You won’t catch me squeegeeing film, heck no! I reach for two very clean cellulose sponges and make a film sandwich with them. Pro tip… I use an old pair of chopsticks to hold it firm and pull the film through. Is that freaky enough for you?

    • @orion7741
      @orion7741 ปีที่แล้ว

      so, you are still squeegeeing film, you are just using sponges as your squeegee..... you fingers are way better suited for the job and wont scratch the negatives or smudge the emulsion like sponges can.

  • @BeastlyBird
    @BeastlyBird 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Water spots and dust. FUCK!!!!

  • @joshuacotto
    @joshuacotto 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I feel like im watching a college lecture video

  • @goldenhourkodak
    @goldenhourkodak 2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Nope. Photoflow works every time.