Eduardo, you have the best photography channel out there! I love how you can explain things and talk about cameras, film, developing, etc. in such a conversational tone. It really puts the viewer at ease, especially newbies to film photography like myself. I am just starting to plan on developing my own film after shooting for less than a year, and I've found your videos to be quite inspiring. I will give Df96 a go, as it seems tailor made for someone like me just starting out. Thanks again for the great content and your easygoing style!
I have been using monobaths for awhile. Used to use R3/R5 but getting it seems to keep ending up being a problem and HC 110 is crazy expensive for making it myself. So when I saw that Cinestill was selling a monobath I figured I would give it a go. The fact that they have it available as a powder now also adds to the versatility.
This is awesome. Developing for beginners is super daunting. I could actually see myself getting this. See if they can make you an affiliate link, lol.
Started with a film camera just over a month ago. Decided on black and white with the hope of developing myself. I love this stuff cause I don’t need anything more than a tank, a jug of this, and a thermometer
I was excited to see your review of this as soon as you mentioned that you had it. As a long time film photographer but complete developing newbie, this stuff sounds great. Great reason to shoot more b&w as well!
I'm on my second jug of this stuff. Primarily processing 400TX pushed 2 stops regularly. I was able to process expired neopan ss as well. The timetables depends on how much you wanna agitate. I soup at 95 degrees 30s first agitation stand for 2 minutes then next 30s agitation and slowly pour it out (final agitation) at the 5 minute mark. I love it. For my use it totally beats buying D-76 powder, stop and fix. It's virtually idiot-proof.
Df96 has a 3 month shelf life. So what I do Is shoot 8+ rolls then start developing. Personally I love this monobath. I started using D76 but was not too happy with the initial mixing, then I switched to HC110 but realized that I was not a fan of mixing everytime I wanted to develop film, so I stopped shooting black & white. When this was announced I drove to Freestyle to pick some up. So far it's been great. I developed 2 120 film rolls in one night where I'll usually just do 1, and I love the results.
This stuff is great! I’ve been using It for a couple weeks, put about 4 rolls of hp5 120 through It and I’m real happy with the results thus far. I agree, probably not much room for experimenting and getting wild, but to get a good negative without much fuss, this is the jam.
Thank you for this! I used it yesterday, to develop my first-ever roll of film. It was super-easy. And good to know about the Acros. It says somewhere that tabular grain film has to be processed for longer but maybe not the Acros? That's what I developed yesterday, at just the standart timing, and it seems pretty okay. (But I am a total noob so it's kind of guesswork.) Besides the simplicity, I really like it that it uses so little water. I have to haul my water in by hand so this is a real plus. Shelf-life is 2 months, once you've opened it.
The main reason why I wouldn't use monobaths is my doubt over it being archival. I recently scanned a couple of rolls of a documentary photographer taken some 15 years ago and she apparently wasn't very careful with her processing back then. It hurts when you lose images just through laziness! She wasn't very bothered because it was stuff from school, but I wouldn't want that to happen to any of my work! But then, I'm probably not the target demographic for this stuff anyway, I tend to process batches of 40+ rolls in my jobo 5 roll tank + rotary processor and leave the developer unused for months. HC110 is the best option for me. It doesn't really matter that it takes about 25 min for one 5 roll batch, because I don't have to babysit the processor, I just set a timer and go do other stuff. For me the bottleneck isn't the development, it's the editing. Dust spotting scans takes me forever!
Doing a final wash with distilled water, not touching the film all over and just hanging it to dry on a dust-free environment will leave your negatives with few dust/water spots!
alvareo92 I've been doing this a long time and there is a difference between cat hair dusty and unavoidably dusty. It's not much, but it's enough that I have to go over every single picture to make sure. It's a reality of the darkroom too, that's just how it goes when you have several glass surfaces and a negative that all attract dust 🙄 there just isn't a way to prevent it apart from maybe developing and scanning in an industrial cleanroom!
I have cine still c-41 I lost count how many rolls, but still going good ! I didn’t really add any 15 sec last one I did 4 (+30sec)for A and 9min (+1)for B Was hesitating on this ☝🏼, now I see it’s good 👍if Eduardo says so😎👌
Hi Eduardo. You show great results using Cinestill df96 with HP5 pushed to 1600. Can you tell me what temperature you used and for how long as the Cinestill pdf only shows 1 stop pushing to 800? Great work. Keep it up.
no sé mucho de fotografía pero la verdad es que ver este vídeo con subtitulos me hará mas fácil el trabajo de aprender. Escucharlos en español aunque sea por ratitos siempre es tan grato. yeiii!
This is a very helpful and informative episode, thanks. Except for a little motion sickness, watching you wash film while holding the camera, I very much enjoyed both the information and, especially, all the photos.
Thank you for explaining this so well, I'd been interested in the DF96 but wasn't sure whether it would be good for me. Works out cheaper than buying my normal stuff and at the most I'm only developing a roll every week or two. I just ran out of DD-X so might just take the plunge!
Eduardo, when you are drying the film, do you use a squeegee or your fingers to get the excess water off? Going to try to develop my first two rolls using this process but forgot to get a squeegee. 🤦🏽♂️
Great review and I’m stoked on your pushing results, but I’d have to disagree with one thing. Because of the 2 month shelf life after opening, I see it being more beneficial for the photographer who shoots a lot. You’d need to shoot about 2 rolls a week to get your moneys worth OR know that you have a big series or assignment that requires a lot of rolls. I’m using Ilfotec HC and Ilford rapid fixer. Just two chemicals.
Gracias Eduardo por la reseña, la estuve esperando ya que quiero empezar a revelar película b&w, disparo poco principalmente por el costo de los rollos y el revelado. Soy de Ciudad de México aquí solo conozco dos opciones los revelados "baratos" del centro con malos resultados por lo que terminan siendo un desperdicio de película y dinero; y el Laboratorio Mexicano de Imágenes, creo el más profesional que hay por lo menos aquí en la ciudad pero caro y me queda lejos. Quiero probar este revelador para empezar y talvez en el futuro probar con otros más "complejos". Saludos!!
Gracias por este video Eduardo, yo acostumbro el black and white casualmente. Me gustaría que lo uses más allá de los 8 minutos para ver si es possible. Siempre muy admirado con tu trabajo de fotografía!
Chemistry lifespan: Expected shelf life is 1 year from purchase, and once opened should be used within 2 months. Film will still finish processing as chemicals age but will eventually produce thin negatives when developer is exhausted.
Great video! :) Seems like a really interesting product. This might actually be what gets me into processing my own film instead of sending it off to a developer... I'm guessing there's no similar product for color film though?
Una pregunta, ¿Que haces con los líquidos cuando caducan? ¿Tienes que llevarlos a algún lado? o se pueden tirar por el desagüe al no ser muy contaminante. Saludos
Love your videos! I stumbled upon your channel while looking for anything Mamiya C330 as I recently got one. And now I am getting way ahead of myself and wanting to develop the rolls myself. And so I saw again one of your videos which is this on. Upon reading lots of forums I found out about "Cafenol", it's a household mix of coffee, ascorbic acid and some sodium carbonate (I think, not sure about the last ingredient). Anyway was wondering if you have heard and tried about it? Also, what rolls would you recommend for someone like me, a complete beginner in analog photography? Thank you!
I have a video in which I tried caffenol. I didn't like it. You'll do much better buying some D-76, and a fixer! There are no rolls for beginners, just like there are no colors for professionals. if you expose correctly, any film will do. Buy the cheapest film you can get and experiment. That's how you will learn! :D
@@edpavez Thanks for the advice! I am checking out the cheapest rolls now hahaha I haven't rummage enough your channel, haven't seen the video with caffenol. BTW I am so thrilled you replied! Have a good day :)
cuando empeze a ver modismos en los subtitulos me estrañe, pero cuando estabas agitando y dijiste conchutupico, lo entendi todo 😆. se agradece una opinion honesta de un producto, saludos!
Thank you Ed for opening my eyes to CineStill df96, seems like an excellent product, especially for newbies and people with time constraints. I would expect its shelf life to to be extended by storing it it the refrigerator. I'm most interested to see what grain structure it gives with different films compared to normal developers. Cheers
Great review, thanks. I only wish I would have had something like this years ago. I will definitely be giving this a try. I shoot 30-40 rolls a year typically so I can definitely see a place for this along side using my D76 + TF4 fixer combo for larger batches. Peace.
Very cool video Eduardo. At the 3:30 mark however you can see the msds labels for the monobath. Next time I would air on the side of caution and use gloves and goggles just to ensure you get none of it on your skin or in your eyes. It is classified as a mutagen and irritant and can increase your risk of developing cancer.
As for how long it lasts I think CineStill says once the bottle is opened it is good for 2 months. I wonder if stored in one of their collapsible bottle with almost no air if it would last a bit longer.
Thank you so much for your review Brother. Have you had a chance to try it with Tri-X? I wonder if it retains its famous exposure latitude with this process. I am hoping to get back into photography after decades of life getting in the way and a simple process for small batches seems ideal.
I didn’t try it with Tri-X as I don’t shoot that film often, but I think the results are quite good. I don’t think you’ll be disappointed with the latitude.
Thanks, don't shoot much b&w and have only tried FPP's monobath which is limited to film up to 400iso but easier to use color film developing. Looking to branch out so thanks for the review!
The problem with these is the expiration, they expire two months after opening it, so to make the most out of it you would have to shoot 16 rolls in two months. That leaves out the casual shooters, wich like you said were the main target of the product. Of course it is cheaper than developing in a lab but, like you said, in some cases it's more convenient to use other developers which have more shelf life and (in theory) give better results, even if the overall process is a litte more complicated than this
Yep. Though I think it's mostly intended for regular shooters who save a bunch of film that has been shot and once you have ten of fifteen rolls, spend an afternoon developing them.
I don't know where to buy this in France, but i'd like to try this... just to try, because i usually use Fomadon R09 (Rodinal Like) and i'm confident with my usual process...
Hola Eduardo, could you comment on the shelf life? Have you tried using it beyond the one month recommended shelf life? Thank you so much for all this info and your channel in general :)
You can use it beyond a month, but not much more. It loses its potency fairly quickly, and negatives become too thin. I would stick to the manufacturer’s recommendation. :(
I have tried to develop 3 rolls with Cinestill Monobath DF96 and Lab Box, and I have damaged all 3 rolls, I do everything according to the manual, and the videos I have seen on the internet, and the film is not revealed, the emulsion remains stuck to the film, the product is new, any suggestions? Thanks in advance
Hi. I have been trying to find out info on cinestills website about pushing 400 iso to 1600 and couldn’t find info on adding time. Where did you find that info from. I just keep reading about temp increase. Also do you at 15 sec for each roll or for 2 rolls per development ? Any tips will help. Thanks
Quality of results aside, the most efficient usage to exhaustion is going to exceed $1 per roll. Once opened, the shelf life per Cinestill is two months. If you are the casual shooter he contemplates here, that cost goes up to more than $2 per roll, and you throw out half used monobath which has aged out. That puts a pretty high relative cost on the convenience factor for df96. I'm not sure that using a monobath is a good teaching tool for beginners in the darkroom, as it is a dead end learning curve. It seems better suited to the person you doesn't want to learn anything more about film development than the bare minimum required to get a result, which is fine for a lot of folks..
@@squirtreynoldscinema Storing your shot film and batch processing to optimize use of d96 will work well for results, but deprives the user of that immediate gratification which most DIY film processors seek. Of course, even if you throw out aged d96 before it is used up, that higher cost per roll is still a lot cheaper than mailing your film somewhere and paying $10 a roll to have some kid scratch it up for you in a "lab".
I am not sure it is ok to drop the used developer back in the container with fresh developer. Just saying. I tried this df96 once and I thought it was ok too but like you, I am unsure of the shelf life. However, as I don't shoot a lot sometimes, especially in winter (in Québec winter is ...really winter), I noticed after a while that there was a deposit in the container. At that point, I didn't want to mess with my films so, I dumped what was left. I'm wondering if anyone else experience this deposit thing.
Hace poco revelé un Double-X 5222 con D-76, pensando en comprar el D-96, y ahora que lo pienso, este multiquímicos de CS, contendrá el mismo agente revelador que el Kodak D-96
Whered you get that roll film tank? i used that specific one in high school photo class and really liked them, but haven't been able to find them anywhere since.
@@edpavez Hehe, yeah I didn't think you would know them by heart! :) I only ask because I'm looking at the manual, and I only see HP5 listed up to 800, not 1600.
@@edpavez Oh my goodness, you're totally right and you walk through exactly what you did with the HP5! I'm so sorry I was lazy and didn't watch through the whole video a second time when I was looking for that information. Thank you!
Just curious. Since this is a monobath what would happen if you decided to put your roll back in the developer? If you gave it another minute later on would it push it a stop or just do nothing?
Just watching this video now while in self-isolation. I keep getting reticulation when developing HP5 at 1600 on the Cinestill DF96. That means a 90 F temp is needed from what I can tell from the general table. How can I prevent further reticulation? I've gone to the step of getting all my tanks in water similar to the temp that it will be developed at.
@@timeandtides8701 No I did not. By the time I was about to try it again (Cinestill recommended I pre-soak the film to bring it up or down to the correct temperature) the developer had expired. I disposed of it properly and went back to my regular Ilford DDX and multiple chemical method for develop.
So for every roll of film, you add an extra 15 seconds for dev time. However, for stock D76 or Id-11, how much time do I have to add per roll? So far, I've developed 2 rolls of film with my stock 1 liter ID-11.
Do not know. There are three ways to use up D-76 (and for most developers as well): (1) dilute stock to maklw a working solutiion, use once, then toss out; (2) add a "replentisher" solution to your stock bottle in an amount computed based on each roll processed with that stock; and (3) add a bit of time to the base time after each roll(s) processed to compensate for partial exhaustion. #3 is the least reliable by far. #2 works well if you do large volumes of film in machines which automatically monitor consumption, meaning in a commercial lab. (Does Kodak still make D-76 Replentisher?) #1 makes the most economical use of your stock solution and provides the best consistency. For D-76, it also yield the best overall quality of image sharpness, commonly used 1:2 or 1:1.
Do you add 15 seconds for each batch or each roll of film? So if your first batch had two rolls in it would you add 15 or 30 seconds for your next batch?
You add processing time based on the number of rolls previously processed. This is done to compensate for partial consumption of ingredients. It does not compensate for the aging of the chemistry, the useful life of which is quite short compared to most "normal" B&W chemistry.
Is it an additional 15 secs. per use or 15 secs. per roll (like if you were to dev. 2 rolls in a 16ounce cannister that would add 15 sec. ea. time you dev. 2 rolls or 30 sec. because it's 2 rolls).
![[Part 1] ทารกน้อยถูกทิ้ง👶 หญิงชราเก็บขวดขายเลี้ยงดูเขาจนโต #โลกการละคร](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nPTDvFCExks/mqdefault.jpg)
Eduardo, you have the best photography channel out there! I love how you can explain things and talk about cameras, film, developing, etc. in such a conversational tone. It really puts the viewer at ease, especially newbies to film photography like myself. I am just starting to plan on developing my own film after shooting for less than a year, and I've found your videos to be quite inspiring. I will give Df96 a go, as it seems tailor made for someone like me just starting out. Thanks again for the great content and your easygoing style!
I love the way you always put philosophical books in the background
It is really nice to see Fran in your photos. You guys are goals.
Want some developer, kid?
Test rolls or not your compositions are always strong! Nice shots Eduardo!!! That Acros shots with the sun as backlight are lovely 😊
I have been using monobaths for awhile. Used to use R3/R5 but getting it seems to keep ending up being a problem and HC 110 is crazy expensive for making it myself. So when I saw that Cinestill was selling a monobath I figured I would give it a go. The fact that they have it available as a powder now also adds to the versatility.
This is awesome. Developing for beginners is super daunting. I could actually see myself getting this. See if they can make you an affiliate link, lol.
hahaha. no need. I have Patreon, so I don't have to sell anything to anybody! :D
Man I strongly encourage you to learn to develop with standards chemistry as it will give you way more result to the end result and it so easy .
I really enjoy the honesty in your videos ... you’re not afraid of failing and enjoy the journey - it comes through 👍
Started with a film camera just over a month ago. Decided on black and white with the hope of developing myself. I love this stuff cause I don’t need anything more than a tank, a jug of this, and a thermometer
I was excited to see your review of this as soon as you mentioned that you had it.
As a long time film photographer but complete developing newbie, this stuff sounds great. Great reason to shoot more b&w as well!
B&W is the best for starting your own homelab. This thing is great for small batches! Gogogogo!!
I'm on my second jug of this stuff. Primarily processing 400TX pushed 2 stops regularly. I was able to process expired neopan ss as well. The timetables depends on how much you wanna agitate. I soup at 95 degrees 30s first agitation stand for 2 minutes then next 30s agitation and slowly pour it out (final agitation) at the 5 minute mark. I love it. For my use it totally beats buying D-76 powder, stop and fix. It's virtually idiot-proof.
Renato Valenzuela Jr. have u developed any HP5 pushed 2 stops? If you have, what times are u using?
yess! thanks for making this... been wanting to try it for a while now!
Df96 has a 3 month shelf life. So what I do Is shoot 8+ rolls then start developing. Personally I love this monobath. I started using D76 but was not too happy with the initial mixing, then I switched to HC110 but realized that I was not a fan of mixing everytime I wanted to develop film, so I stopped shooting black & white. When this was announced I drove to Freestyle to pick some up. So far it's been great. I developed 2 120 film rolls in one night where I'll usually just do 1, and I love the results.
Jorge Rudy Ambrocio 2month
Check my review on it to get these details
If you filter through a coffee filter you can stretch out the life a little longer. 2 months is recommended but I’ve seen people use It for longer.
@@JoeyShip where do you storege it after you finish using it today?
Just subscribed. Down to earth, funny, and a very talented photographer. Loved the video!!
This stuff is great! I’ve been using It for a couple weeks, put about 4 rolls of hp5 120 through It and I’m real happy with the results thus far. I agree, probably not much room for experimenting and getting wild, but to get a good negative without much fuss, this is the jam.
Thank you for reviewing this. I have some hp5 laying around waiting to be developed. Definitely trying this developer.
Thank you for this! I used it yesterday, to develop my first-ever roll of film. It was super-easy.
And good to know about the Acros. It says somewhere that tabular grain film has to be processed for longer but maybe not the Acros? That's what I developed yesterday, at just the standart timing, and it seems pretty okay. (But I am a total noob so it's kind of guesswork.)
Besides the simplicity, I really like it that it uses so little water. I have to haul my water in by hand so this is a real plus.
Shelf-life is 2 months, once you've opened it.
The main reason why I wouldn't use monobaths is my doubt over it being archival. I recently scanned a couple of rolls of a documentary photographer taken some 15 years ago and she apparently wasn't very careful with her processing back then. It hurts when you lose images just through laziness! She wasn't very bothered because it was stuff from school, but I wouldn't want that to happen to any of my work! But then, I'm probably not the target demographic for this stuff anyway, I tend to process batches of 40+ rolls in my jobo 5 roll tank + rotary processor and leave the developer unused for months. HC110 is the best option for me. It doesn't really matter that it takes about 25 min for one 5 roll batch, because I don't have to babysit the processor, I just set a timer and go do other stuff. For me the bottleneck isn't the development, it's the editing. Dust spotting scans takes me forever!
Doing a final wash with distilled water, not touching the film all over and just hanging it to dry on a dust-free environment will leave your negatives with few dust/water spots!
alvareo92 I've been doing this a long time and there is a difference between cat hair dusty and unavoidably dusty. It's not much, but it's enough that I have to go over every single picture to make sure. It's a reality of the darkroom too, that's just how it goes when you have several glass surfaces and a negative that all attract dust 🙄 there just isn't a way to prevent it apart from maybe developing and scanning in an industrial cleanroom!
Thanks for turning me onto this stuff, Eduardo. The ease of use is probably going to finally get me to start developing my own film.
What an amazing video! So informative, literally chalked full of good info!
I have cine still c-41 I lost count how many rolls, but still going good ! I didn’t really add any 15 sec last one I did 4 (+30sec)for A and 9min (+1)for B
Was hesitating on this ☝🏼, now I see it’s good 👍if Eduardo says so😎👌
Great video. Well done with an honest, helpful, informative review!
Man your Photos are Amazing !!!!They look so good
Thanks for making this video. What song were you singing when you were counting? I am learning spanish and want to learn that song.
Hi Eduardo. You show great results using Cinestill df96 with HP5 pushed to 1600. Can you tell me what temperature you used and for how long as the Cinestill pdf only shows 1 stop pushing to 800? Great work. Keep it up.
great episode. Maybe one of the best. I missed the drums tough
no sé mucho de fotografía pero la verdad es que ver este vídeo con subtitulos me hará mas fácil el trabajo de aprender. Escucharlos en español aunque sea por ratitos siempre es tan grato. yeiii!
I just developed the first roll of film in my life using this developer. Worked great and very easy to use.
Fantastic!This will be a boost on film developing!
This is a very helpful and informative episode, thanks. Except for a little motion sickness, watching you wash film while holding the camera, I very much enjoyed both the information and, especially, all the photos.
"30 conchetupico" fue lo mejor de ese monobath
Thank you for explaining this so well, I'd been interested in the DF96 but wasn't sure whether it would be good for me. Works out cheaper than buying my normal stuff and at the most I'm only developing a roll every week or two. I just ran out of DD-X so might just take the plunge!
I miss darkroom photography. Glad to see you are committed to it! :)
Hegel's Phenomenology of Spirit at the background rocks :D (Y)
Brilliant and really helpful Ed, thank you!
Eduardo, when you are drying the film, do you use a squeegee or your fingers to get the excess water off? Going to try to develop my first two rolls using this process but forgot to get a squeegee. 🤦🏽♂️
Yes ive been waiting for this!!
I can order it from next week onwards
Cinestill actually has pretty good developers. I use their C41 stuff to develop and am always pleased with the results
This looks really exciting. Can't wait until it arrives in Europe.
Great review and I’m stoked on your pushing results, but I’d have to disagree with one thing. Because of the 2 month shelf life after opening, I see it being more beneficial for the photographer who shoots a lot. You’d need to shoot about 2 rolls a week to get your moneys worth OR know that you have a big series or assignment that requires a lot of rolls. I’m using Ilfotec HC and Ilford rapid fixer. Just two chemicals.
Excellent video very informative & extremely useful.
Alan in the UK
Gracias Eduardo por la reseña, la estuve esperando ya que quiero empezar a revelar película b&w, disparo poco principalmente por el costo de los rollos y el revelado. Soy de Ciudad de México aquí solo conozco dos opciones los revelados "baratos" del centro con malos resultados por lo que terminan siendo un desperdicio de película y dinero; y el Laboratorio Mexicano de Imágenes, creo el más profesional que hay por lo menos aquí en la ciudad pero caro y me queda lejos. Quiero probar este revelador para empezar y talvez en el futuro probar con otros más "complejos". Saludos!!
Gracias por este video Eduardo, yo acostumbro el black and white casualmente. Me gustaría que lo uses más allá de los 8 minutos para ver si es possible. Siempre muy admirado con tu trabajo de fotografía!
that thing is a dream for a newbie like me! can't wait to get some b&w film and try it at home!
Chemistry lifespan:
Expected shelf life is 1 year from purchase, and once opened should be used within 2 months. Film will still finish processing as chemicals age but will eventually produce thin negatives when developer is exhausted.
Great video! :) Seems like a really interesting product. This might actually be what gets me into processing my own film instead of sending it off to a developer... I'm guessing there's no similar product for color film though?
no, nothing in color I'm afraid.
They do have a two-part simplified colour bath which works pretty well
@@mosaicjazzsydney can you reference this with the names of those? I’m also looking for a two step color solution. Thanks in advance
Your Pictures are awesome!! Which Scanner do you use ? Greetings from Germany
Una pregunta, ¿Que haces con los líquidos cuando caducan? ¿Tienes que llevarlos a algún lado? o se pueden tirar por el desagüe al no ser muy contaminante. Saludos
son muy contaminantes. debes preguntarle a tu alcaldía dónde puedes ir a dejarlos o cómo deshacerte de ellos. cada ciudad tiene reglas diferentes.
Love your videos! I stumbled upon your channel while looking for anything Mamiya C330 as I recently got one. And now I am getting way ahead of myself and wanting to develop the rolls myself. And so I saw again one of your videos which is this on. Upon reading lots of forums I found out about "Cafenol", it's a household mix of coffee, ascorbic acid and some sodium carbonate (I think, not sure about the last ingredient). Anyway was wondering if you have heard and tried about it? Also, what rolls would you recommend for someone like me, a complete beginner in analog photography? Thank you!
I have a video in which I tried caffenol. I didn't like it. You'll do much better buying some D-76, and a fixer! There are no rolls for beginners, just like there are no colors for professionals. if you expose correctly, any film will do. Buy the cheapest film you can get and experiment. That's how you will learn! :D
@@edpavez Thanks for the advice! I am checking out the cheapest rolls now hahaha I haven't rummage enough your channel, haven't seen the video with caffenol. BTW I am so thrilled you replied! Have a good day :)
cuando empeze a ver modismos en los subtitulos me estrañe, pero cuando estabas agitando y dijiste conchutupico, lo entendi todo 😆. se agradece una opinion honesta de un producto, saludos!
Thank you Ed for opening my eyes to CineStill df96, seems like an excellent product, especially for newbies and people with time constraints. I would expect its shelf life to to be extended by storing it it the refrigerator. I'm most interested to see what grain structure it gives with different films compared to normal developers. Cheers
See for yourself cinestillfilm.com/blogs/news/no-compromises-df96-compared-to-the-most-popular-standard-developers
I wonder if you should be rinsing with distilled water, at a certain temperature. Tap water is kinda cold.
Really interesting product. Thanks for the video
Great review, thanks. I only wish I would have had something like this years ago. I will definitely be giving this a try. I shoot 30-40 rolls a year typically so I can definitely see a place for this along side using my D76 + TF4 fixer combo for larger batches. Peace.
Awesome vid!!! What Ph.D are you taking?
Looks simple, maybe I will try developing my first film some day. Thanks for the tip!
Very cool video Eduardo. At the 3:30 mark however you can see the msds labels for the monobath. Next time I would air on the side of caution and use gloves and goggles just to ensure you get none of it on your skin or in your eyes. It is classified as a mutagen and irritant and can increase your risk of developing cancer.
As for how long it lasts I think CineStill says once the bottle is opened it is good for 2 months. I wonder if stored in one of their collapsible bottle with almost no air if it would last a bit longer.
Holas! Consulta ,como guardas los negativos? No se si ya lo comentaste en algún video pero seria interesante :D. Saludos!
Thank you so much for your review Brother. Have you had a chance to try it with Tri-X? I wonder if it retains its famous exposure latitude with this process. I am hoping to get back into photography after decades of life getting in the way and a simple process for small batches seems ideal.
I didn’t try it with Tri-X as I don’t shoot that film often, but I think the results are quite good. I don’t think you’ll be disappointed with the latitude.
Thanks, don't shoot much b&w and have only tried FPP's monobath which is limited to film up to 400iso but easier to use color film developing. Looking to branch out so thanks for the review!
The problem with these is the expiration, they expire two months after opening it, so to make the most out of it you would have to shoot 16 rolls in two months. That leaves out the casual shooters, wich like you said were the main target of the product. Of course it is cheaper than developing in a lab but, like you said, in some cases it's more convenient to use other developers which have more shelf life and (in theory) give better results, even if the overall process is a litte more complicated than this
Yep. Though I think it's mostly intended for regular shooters who save a bunch of film that has been shot and once you have ten of fifteen rolls, spend an afternoon developing them.
How about the contrast? The sample online pictures look kind of flat to me but your pictures don´t.
Did not expect to see the phenomenology of spirit in the background...
It looks like they only show the developement time for pushing/pulling one stop. What if I wanted to push HP5 2 stops?
Nicr video came here becuase an awesome camera video , see you talking spanish were are you from? Yo soy de Puerto Rico saludos :)
Hey, Ed! I was wondering how you dried your chemicals! I'm having some issues with lines or scratches on my negatives! Thanksssss
I love that 25 ASA film
I'm just about to jump into the world of developing my own film and I shoot very casually, so this seems like a perfect option for me.
Greetings to your Kaiser
I don't know where to buy this in France, but i'd like to try this... just to try, because i usually use Fomadon R09 (Rodinal Like) and i'm confident with my usual process...
Hola Eduardo, could you comment on the shelf life? Have you tried using it beyond the one month recommended shelf life? Thank you so much for all this info and your channel in general :)
You can use it beyond a month, but not much more. It loses its potency fairly quickly, and negatives become too thin. I would stick to the manufacturer’s recommendation. :(
I should get some of this, I rarely get to shoot more than three rolls at a time and its usually box speed.
My question is how does it work though. It develops, stops, and fixes it all at once??
I have tried to develop 3 rolls with Cinestill Monobath DF96 and Lab Box, and I have damaged all 3 rolls, I do everything according to the manual, and the videos I have seen on the internet, and the film is not revealed, the emulsion remains stuck to the film, the product is new, any suggestions? Thanks in advance
have u ever tried Ilfotec LC29 expansive but will develop 50 35mm rolls @ a 1:29 ratio more done with a quality development
this is great for me. I have never developed film at all. So this would be a good start.
Great Vid and the voice would also go with film too... the first roll is free lol.
Hi. I have been trying to find out info on cinestills website about pushing 400 iso to 1600 and couldn’t find info on adding time. Where did you find that info from. I just keep reading about temp increase. Also do you at 15 sec for each roll or for 2 rolls per development ? Any tips will help. Thanks
Quality of results aside, the most efficient usage to exhaustion is going to exceed $1 per roll. Once opened, the shelf life per Cinestill is two months. If you are the casual shooter he contemplates here, that cost goes up to more than $2 per roll, and you throw out half used monobath which has aged out. That puts a pretty high relative cost on the convenience factor for df96. I'm not sure that using a monobath is a good teaching tool for beginners in the darkroom, as it is a dead end learning curve. It seems better suited to the person you doesn't want to learn anything more about film development than the bare minimum required to get a result, which is fine for a lot of folks..
@@squirtreynoldscinema Storing your shot film and batch processing to optimize use of d96 will work well for results, but deprives the user of that immediate gratification which most DIY film processors seek. Of course, even if you throw out aged d96 before it is used up, that higher cost per roll is still a lot cheaper than mailing your film somewhere and paying $10 a roll to have some kid scratch it up for you in a "lab".
Edu, sos un craaa
Cuando empezaste a contar en español dije “este weon es chileno!?” Y dijiste conchetupico 😂😂😂🫶 me muero, gracias!
I am not sure it is ok to drop the used developer back in the container with fresh developer. Just saying. I tried this df96 once and I thought it was ok too but like you, I am unsure of the shelf life. However, as I don't shoot a lot sometimes, especially in winter (in Québec winter is ...really winter), I noticed after a while that there was a deposit in the container. At that point, I didn't want to mess with my films so, I dumped what was left. I'm wondering if anyone else experience this deposit thing.
Hace poco revelé un Double-X 5222 con D-76, pensando en comprar el D-96, y ahora que lo pienso, este multiquímicos de CS, contendrá el mismo agente revelador que el Kodak D-96
Hello, can this developer work with fomapan 35mm 100,, I am waiting for a response, thank you..
Qué cantidad del químico se tiene que poner? O solamente con que cubra el rollo?
Whered you get that roll film tank? i used that specific one in high school photo class and really liked them, but haven't been able to find them anywhere since.
Paterson?
You mentioned developing HP5 at 1600, but the development chart only mentions pushing to 800. What temperature and time did you use?
The instructions for pushing are in the manual. I don’t know them by heart, sorry!
@@edpavez Hehe, yeah I didn't think you would know them by heart! :) I only ask because I'm looking at the manual, and I only see HP5 listed up to 800, not 1600.
There’s a subsection about pushing. I think I talk about those times in this video?
@@edpavez Oh my goodness, you're totally right and you walk through exactly what you did with the HP5! I'm so sorry I was lazy and didn't watch through the whole video a second time when I was looking for that information. Thank you!
Hahha no worries. :)
Just curious. Since this is a monobath what would happen if you decided to put your roll back in the developer? If you gave it another minute later on would it push it a stop or just do nothing?
Try it and let us know!
Hey! What are the pros of pushing your film to 1600?
What is your process for printing or scanning?
Just watching this video now while in self-isolation. I keep getting reticulation when developing HP5 at 1600 on the Cinestill DF96. That means a 90 F temp is needed from what I can tell from the general table. How can I prevent further reticulation? I've gone to the step of getting all my tanks in water similar to the temp that it will be developed at.
I have the same problem even developing HP5 at box speed. All chems are the same temp (27 c for constant agitation) did you ever fix the issue?
@@timeandtides8701 No I did not. By the time I was about to try it again (Cinestill recommended I pre-soak the film to bring it up or down to the correct temperature) the developer had expired. I disposed of it properly and went back to my regular Ilford DDX and multiple chemical method for develop.
can you prewash the film first to remove the stains? will it have any effect of the developer?
So for every roll of film, you add an extra 15 seconds for dev time. However, for stock D76 or Id-11, how much time do I have to add per roll? So far, I've developed 2 rolls of film with my stock 1 liter ID-11.
if I remember correctly, in D76 I added 30 seconds every 10 rolls or so.
Do not know. There are three ways to use up D-76 (and for most developers as well): (1) dilute stock to maklw a working solutiion, use once, then toss out; (2) add a "replentisher" solution to your stock bottle in an amount computed based on each roll processed with that stock; and (3) add a bit of time to the base time after each roll(s) processed to compensate for partial exhaustion. #3 is the least reliable by far. #2 works well if you do large volumes of film in machines which automatically monitor consumption, meaning in a commercial lab. (Does Kodak still make D-76 Replentisher?) #1 makes the most economical use of your stock solution and provides the best consistency. For D-76, it also yield the best overall quality of image sharpness, commonly used 1:2 or 1:1.
Do you add 15 seconds for each batch or each roll of film? So if your first batch had two rolls in it would you add 15 or 30 seconds for your next batch?
You add processing time based on the number of rolls previously processed. This is done to compensate for partial consumption of ingredients. It does not compensate for the aging of the chemistry, the useful life of which is quite short compared to most "normal" B&W chemistry.
Someone get this man a funnel
Is it an additional 15 secs. per use or 15 secs. per roll (like if you were to dev. 2 rolls in a 16ounce cannister that would add 15 sec. ea. time you dev. 2 rolls or 30 sec. because it's 2 rolls).
I did it per use and it worked great.
on the kitchen counter where you prepare your food ???????
how long did the developer last you. I am interested in trying it
What's that ASA25 film he is talking about? Apparently I can't google.
It’s an experimental film respooled by Northen Film Lab in the UK.