For anyone in the comments here. Most bathrooms can be made into a dark enough space to change your film in. Try it beforehand though to be sure. Stand in your bathroom with the lights off and look for any light leaks around the door and seal it off either with black gaff tape or hand a black blanket/blackout curtains.
One way to prevent cross contamination is to use color tapes. E.g., I use a Blue tape to label the bottle and cap for Blix, and reD for the Developer's bottle and cap. If funnels are involved, I have separate funnels for developer and blix, labeled with red and blue tapes respectively.
Not me watching this when I work in a whole film lab! 😂 love this. My job uses a Fuji processor for c-41. Didn’t know it was this easy to do color film by hand tho. I do black and white by hand there and do love it.
Easiest way to develop color film? True. Nothing more to say. Especially the TCS-1000 makes it so easy and nearly fool proof. Thanks for putting together this solution.
Spanish: tengo una recomendación para el que siga este tutorial. Cuando hagas el revelado y coloques el blix. Ten cuidado si usas tanque como el Patterson. Ya Que bota especié de gases y en mi caso mi tanque explotó Jajaja fue chistoso pero no lo fue tanto limpiar el blix del piso derramado. Pero al final todo salió bien y tengo mis fotos listas !! English ; I have a recommendation for whoever follows this tutorial. When you do the development and put the blix. Be careful if you use a tank like the Patterson. Since I specified gas boot and in my case my tank exploded Hahaha it was funny but it was not so much cleaning the spilled blix from the floor. But in the end everything went well and I have my photos ready !!
I remember when Bessler chemicals came out, using 100 degrees, each step of the two chemicals were only 1 minuet each. If you used lower temperatures it could go up to 5 minutes without shifting the colors. When I started with Kodak chemicals, there were 5 chemical steps
Just use a conversion chart like the other 1% of us 😉 You have to remember that so many of the inventions that we all take for granted these days were either invented or perfected and built and distributed by American companies from the Industrial Revolution through the late 20th century! No one’s fault, it just is what it is. The US is embracing the metric system more and more, which undoubtedly is easier and more accurate… but change is slow. I still use the imperial system personally, but I understand the metric system and definitely see its benefits! The younger generations especially are using metric more.
Hey team, great video, been using the powdered kit for a while now and love it! You mentioned Instagram filters for colour negative film, I couldn't find the link in the description, could you share please, would love to check them out!
Hey Simon! Thanks for watching. We just added it to our description (whoops!) but you can find it by going to the filters tab on our Instagram profile or this link should work directly too: instagram.com/ar/2747900915465661
Thanks for tutorial! I just got the TCS-1000 and color developing kit and was wondering about something; the formula for adding time for reusing is a little bit confusing and would appreciate a little bit better explanation for it. Also you advertise that you can reuse it up to 24 rolls and it seems just tad odd because the instructions say that you can develop 8 rolls of 135 film or 120 film, so is it 24 or 8? 😅 love your products and I will continue to use them but I would hope for more easier instructions! (This could be a language barrier thing too tho..)
Hi! The table you are looking at refers to how many rolls you can process in the same tank at the same time. With 1000mL you can process up to 8 rolls of 135 at once, but the chemistry should be able to do 24 rolls over its lifespan. I hope this helps!
Lol your tcs 1000 stuff look like a soup mixer machine, well done it warm the water and help mix the chemical without adding bubble truly a usefull tool.
Love this video! Super excited to develop my first roll! Double checking: the water should be warmed to specified temperature before any mixing starts? Also, is tap water safe to use or is distilled water the best option? Thanks!
The directions say to bring the water up to 120° for Dev and 125° for Blix for mixing. Is this necessary for proper chemical activation or just a way to save time bringing the chemicals up to temp prior to developing? I mixed my Dev and Blix with 70° distilled water. Did I screw it up?
Developing Neophyte here- does the film's iso determine the developing time/temperature for chemicals? Thank you, and I'm excited to use my new kit from y'all!
How long is the chemistry meant to last? I've done 10 rolls now (with slowly increasing developing time) and no issues. However I've had it over 2 months, should i be disposing soon for the best results? Or will it be ok as long store it carefully? This video was super helpful.. thx :)
Your local municipality should have a household hazardous waste disposal facility. Some are a simple drop-off. Others you schedule a pickup at your address. These chemicals are no more dangerous than some cleaning products, but it’s always good to follow local regulations regarding disposal.
Is re-using estimates based on amount of film stocks per use or volume of tank? Can I ouch my personal 500T to equivalent of a CineStill 800T or my CineStill 800 to 1600
Do you recommend a stop bath between the developer and the blix? I’d think pouring blix in right after you use the developer would contaminate the blix when you pour it back in the storage bottle. I’m new to this so any feed back would be great
The Blix is designed such that the Developer getting into it will not contaminate it. As such, there is no need to rinse the film in between the Developer and the Blix. However, be careful not to get Blix into the Developer, as that will kill the Developer. Also you definitely would not want to use a B+W chemical stop bath.
Website just says "long shelf life" can someone elaborate on how long these can be expected to be effective once mixed? He does say "several weeks" in the video. I'm just curious about a bit more specific timetable. I guess I should probably just wait until I have quite a few rolls ready to be processed before mixing up the chemistry
I have a question, since I didn't quite catch the following part: Do you rinse off the Developer from the tank, before you pour in the Bleach&Fix? I didn't see that in the video. I develop only B&W at home currently, and there I do that for sure. I wash with water in between the Developer and the Fixer, sicne otherwise I am contaminating the Fixer with drops of Developer. Also, do you use and do you have to use Stop Baths - meaning chemicals, that stop the developing process after the 3,5 minutes, or is just removing the chemical enough? Thanks!
@@Stoneboy666 Ig its like really 2% for each processed film. So you prob should count your films and lets say you have already processed four films you then need to increase your dev time by 8%(4 films x 2% for each film).
Good evening. I was wondering what type (names) of chemicals (developer, fixer, etc) I need to develop black & white film and color film. Where to buy them? Also, all the equipment I need to develop everything. Also, chemicals to develop the black & white paper? Thanks.
started developing at home, and i developed four roles with this kit so far, i love it. but i have a lot of Kodachrome, if i run that through, what will the result be? will i get negatives? or positives?
Yes! Any color negative film can be processed together in the same tank at the same time. The only time you'd want to separate and batch things is if you have some film that's been shot normally at box speed and some other film you're intending to push- or pull-process.
Before you pour anything in heat up the water because he didn’t say it and not everyone reads instructions. That’s literally why I came to this video. And I gotta ask why in the hell make a video and not realize that the people watching it probably didn’t read the instructions that’s why they’re watching 🙄
so happy to have this video out in the world ♥️🎞 hope this guide makes it a lot less intimidating to develop color film at home 🥰
For anyone in the comments here. Most bathrooms can be made into a dark enough space to change your film in. Try it beforehand though to be sure. Stand in your bathroom with the lights off and look for any light leaks around the door and seal it off either with black gaff tape or hand a black blanket/blackout curtains.
One way to prevent cross contamination is to use color tapes. E.g., I use a Blue tape to label the bottle and cap for Blix, and reD for the Developer's bottle and cap. If funnels are involved, I have separate funnels for developer and blix, labeled with red and blue tapes respectively.
that's a great idea!
so smart wow
i need to do that!
Excellent idea. Perhaps even go further and use diifferent shaped bottles.
@CineStillFilm The steps when adding the developer and blix into the canister with your film, do you have to be in a dark room?
Linus' charisma is through the roof
Yo, thank you guys for actually properly explaining the stabilizer/final rinse thing.
I did not know the developer was so sensitive to blix. Definitely taking more precautions moving forward. Thanks for the heads up! 🙏🏾
Not me watching this when I work in a whole film lab! 😂 love this. My job uses a Fuji processor for c-41. Didn’t know it was this easy to do color film by hand tho. I do black and white by hand there and do love it.
If this is the easiest way I can’t imagine how would look like the hardest way :(
Damn. Linus didn't even remove his eye's gaze from the camera as he caught the sliding cinestill developer from across the desk. 👏
I've processed color neg film before and it was always an incredible PIA, but this almost tempts me to try it again...
DO IT 😊
The heater is a game changer
Easiest way to develop color film? True. Nothing more to say. Especially the TCS-1000 makes it so easy and nearly fool proof. Thanks for putting together this solution.
Loving how Linus is on the team!!! Amazing video and extremely helpful.
Best video for easy steps about color developing 👍🏻
Spanish: tengo una recomendación para el que siga este tutorial. Cuando hagas el revelado y coloques el blix. Ten cuidado si usas tanque como el Patterson. Ya Que bota especié de gases y en mi caso mi tanque explotó Jajaja fue chistoso pero no lo fue tanto limpiar el blix del piso derramado. Pero al final todo salió bien y tengo mis fotos listas !!
English ; I have a recommendation for whoever follows this tutorial. When you do the development and put the blix. Be careful if you use a tank like the Patterson. Since I specified gas boot and in my case my tank exploded Hahaha it was funny but it was not so much cleaning the spilled blix from the floor. But in the end everything went well and I have my photos ready !!
You should let out a little bit of air with patterson tanks. Just put the top on and open it a little bit so air can escape!
I remember when Bessler chemicals came out, using 100 degrees, each step of the two chemicals were only 1 minuet each. If you used lower temperatures it could go up to 5 minutes without shifting the colors. When I started with Kodak chemicals, there were 5 chemical steps
Thank you so much for making this!!!
Needed this 👍🏼
Fahrenheit and ounces is like a foreign language to 99% of the countries in the world
Yeah not measuring and mixing chems in metric seems absolutely nuts to me lol
Just use a conversion chart like the other 1% of us 😉 You have to remember that so many of the inventions that we all take for granted these days were either invented or perfected and built and distributed by American companies from the Industrial Revolution through the late 20th century! No one’s fault, it just is what it is. The US is embracing the metric system more and more, which undoubtedly is easier and more accurate… but change is slow. I still use the imperial system personally, but I understand the metric system and definitely see its benefits! The younger generations especially are using metric more.
99% of the world should go to school and learn how to measure properly.
@@odannyboy3338 Well this member of the younger generation uses metric for one thing and one thing only.
To raise my blood pressure and ruin my day.
@@vhfgamer guess what the inch was adjusted to fit metric at 2.54 cm not the other way around. So you’re using metric even if you don’t know it lmao
Just used this video to develop my first roll! Thank you guys soooo much!
Hey team, great video, been using the powdered kit for a while now and love it!
You mentioned Instagram filters for colour negative film, I couldn't find the link in the description, could you share please, would love to check them out!
Hey Simon! Thanks for watching. We just added it to our description (whoops!) but you can find it by going to the filters tab on our Instagram profile or this link should work directly too: instagram.com/ar/2747900915465661
@@CineStillFilm found it, thanks!
Thanks for tutorial! I just got the TCS-1000 and color developing kit and was wondering about something; the formula for adding time for reusing is a little bit confusing and would appreciate a little bit better explanation for it. Also you advertise that you can reuse it up to 24 rolls and it seems just tad odd because the instructions say that you can develop 8 rolls of 135 film or 120 film, so is it 24 or 8? 😅 love your products and I will continue to use them but I would hope for more easier instructions! (This could be a language barrier thing too tho..)
I think you have enough chemicals to develop 8 rolls the first time. Then you can reuse it up to 24 more rolls before it is spent.
Hi! The table you are looking at refers to how many rolls you can process in the same tank at the same time. With 1000mL you can process up to 8 rolls of 135 at once, but the chemistry should be able to do 24 rolls over its lifespan. I hope this helps!
Excellent. Just bought the powdered version for my Membership Darkroom (opening in Nov) This will be a hit.
Lol your tcs 1000 stuff look like a soup mixer machine, well done it warm the water and help mix the chemical without adding bubble truly a usefull tool.
Thank you Linus!
Love this video! Super excited to develop my first roll!
Double checking: the water should be warmed to specified temperature before any mixing starts?
Also, is tap water safe to use or is distilled water the best option?
Thanks!
Just did my first roll. It’s taking forever to dry
i don`t recomand using TCS1000 in direct contact with any chemistry
The directions say to bring the water up to 120° for Dev and 125° for Blix for mixing. Is this necessary for proper chemical activation or just a way to save time bringing the chemicals up to temp prior to developing? I mixed my Dev and Blix with 70° distilled water. Did I screw it up?
Thanks for this! Now I have one favour to ask. Can you please make another video using metric measurements (which most of the world uses!).
Developing Neophyte here- does the film's iso determine the developing time/temperature for chemicals? Thank you, and I'm excited to use my new kit from y'all!
No. In C-41 processing time and temperature are not relative to film speed.
How long is the chemistry meant to last? I've done 10 rolls now (with slowly increasing developing time) and no issues. However I've had it over 2 months, should i be disposing soon for the best results? Or will it be ok as long store it carefully? This video was super helpful.. thx :)
Around a year... then toss it.
How as your results compared to a lab?
What’s the best way to dispose of the chemicals tho
Your local municipality should have a household hazardous waste disposal facility. Some are a simple drop-off. Others you schedule a pickup at your address. These chemicals are no more dangerous than some cleaning products, but it’s always good to follow local regulations regarding disposal.
with your favourite mixer and ice and have them with dinner.......that's real film hardcore..!!
Is re-using estimates based on amount of film stocks per use or volume of tank? Can I ouch my personal 500T to equivalent of a CineStill 800T or my CineStill 800 to 1600
How much of the final rinse chemical is added to the final rinse water in the tank? Or is it pre mixed in a third bottle and reused?
Do you recommend a stop bath between the developer and the blix? I’d think pouring blix in right after you use the developer would contaminate the blix when you pour it back in the storage bottle. I’m new to this so any feed back would be great
The Blix is designed such that the Developer getting into it will not contaminate it. As such, there is no need to rinse the film in between the Developer and the Blix. However, be careful not to get Blix into the Developer, as that will kill the Developer. Also you definitely would not want to use a B+W chemical stop bath.
@@CineStillFilm But warm water would do the trick just like with B&W, or is it so completely unnecessary that the question is academic?
Tcs is just a rebadged souvee cooker
Website just says "long shelf life" can someone elaborate on how long these can be expected to be effective once mixed?
He does say "several weeks" in the video. I'm just curious about a bit more specific timetable. I guess I should probably just wait until I have quite a few rolls ready to be processed before mixing up the chemistry
A year.
I have had my DF96 last more than a year. Kept in a dark container, room temp and removed the air from the storage bottle.
I have a question, since I didn't quite catch the following part: Do you rinse off the Developer from the tank, before you pour in the Bleach&Fix? I didn't see that in the video. I develop only B&W at home currently, and there I do that for sure. I wash with water in between the Developer and the Fixer, sicne otherwise I am contaminating the Fixer with drops of Developer. Also, do you use and do you have to use Stop Baths - meaning chemicals, that stop the developing process after the 3,5 minutes, or is just removing the chemical enough? Thanks!
What is the increase of time for developer? I tend to develop 20 rolls not 24 and had no issues with developing. I’ve never increased dev time.
I am wondering the same and hoping for an answer. The instruction say add 2% time but then throws in 8% for some reason? Really need answers for this.
@@Stoneboy666 Ig its like really 2% for each processed film. So you prob should count your films and lets say you have already processed four films you then need to increase your dev time by 8%(4 films x 2% for each film).
Good evening. I was wondering what type (names) of chemicals (developer, fixer, etc) I need to develop black & white film and color film. Where to buy them? Also, all the equipment I need to develop everything. Also, chemicals to develop the black & white paper? Thanks.
started developing at home, and i developed four roles with this kit so far, i love it. but i have a lot of Kodachrome, if i run that through, what will the result be? will i get negatives? or positives?
How is this method compared to a traditional method? Is the quality the same?
I rewatched at the 9 second mark multiple times... damn that was smooth! hahaha th-cam.com/video/d2LyzJJbWVQ/w-d-xo.html
😏
Not sure I caught the name of the sous vide, could you remind me again?
any sous vide will work.
Linus Film Tips
stand-development in regular chemicals seems to be easier
hey i like ur explanation i just got the full kit, question if I force my film that was 200 iso to 400 iso the timing in developing change ?
Is the Stabilizer reusable?
Yes!
So can i reuse the exact same chemicals up to 24 rolls? Right?
What is clean water?
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
So I only can store the mixed chemicals for a few weeks? What if I rarely develop my own film?
It does last longer, especially the DF96. Just do the snip test to confirm the chemistry is still good.
How can I develop Portra 400 at home?
Please include metric temperatures and measurements for your customers in all other countries of the world
Negative. Metric can go meter itself into oblivion.
Can I develop at the same time 200 and 800 ISO film?
Yes! Any color negative film can be processed together in the same tank at the same time. The only time you'd want to separate and batch things is if you have some film that's been shot normally at box speed and some other film you're intending to push- or pull-process.
Linus' smile is so infectious
say anti- microbial 5 times fast
anti-microbial anti-microbial anti-microbial anti-microbial anti-microbial wow ok never doing that again
Before you pour anything in heat up the water because he didn’t say it and not everyone reads instructions. That’s literally why I came to this video.
And I gotta ask why in the hell make a video and not realize that the people watching it probably didn’t read the instructions that’s why they’re watching 🙄
Could you give metric measurements as well as outdated Imperial ones please?
need a litre(L) and mL version of this video.
it's a pretty easy conversion.
cant stand this guys attitude
He’s smug af.
My mother always said: If you don't got anything good to say, don't say it.
You lost me (and most of the world) with ounces and quarts.
Use a converter, just like we have to do every time the world tries to shove metric down our throats.
Ffs. Use millilitres and Celsius!
What the Fuck is "one quart" ?? 🤷🙄
If I mix the developer at 51 degrees, how will this affect the results?