Butt Connectors vs Solder | Crimping vs Soldering | Wire Connections | AnthonyJ350
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ม.ค. 2016
- In this video I compare and contrast two styles of connections that are most commonly found in an install bay environment. Crimping with butt connectors and soldering.
If done properly, both are very solid connections. However I think soldering is still better because it's less prone to failure and corrosion.
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Butt Connectors vs Solder | Crimping vs Soldering | Wire Connections | AnthonyJ350
• Butt Connectors vs Sol...
ANTHONYJ350
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Some people don't like how we position the connector in the crimper using the tooth. Here's a video with further explanation: th-cam.com/video/i2le4BN0bP8/w-d-xo.html
Just watched this second video and it has confused me. I am less confident that I understand crimping now.
I have that Channellock crimper, but I also use a couple of Iwiss ratcheting crimpers and a Deuscth DT style collet crimper.
Not many connections I make anymore with butts, and never really the non-insulated ones you use the tabbed crimper for.
@@jimurrata6785 I have a video on Deutsch connectors and will be making a marine butt connectors video soon.
@@AnthonyJ350 I like to use a cupped deflector on either my heat gun or plastic welder to be shrinking adhesive lined terminals or tubing.
It really helps when you can focus on one side or the other just by moving into or away from the sleeve.
@@jimurrata6785 I use a nozzle I this video for my heat gun th-cam.com/video/ca37WnL6Oxo/w-d-xo.html
Detailed, simple, another words, PERFECT!
Thanks!!!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you! Using the table surface for leverage and properly crimping the butt connector are mega ideas! I am restoring a 2001 Jeep XJ and the audio is a mess. You just saved me a ton of time! Down the road, I want to install a Joying radio in the center of the Jeep once I get the current rat nest replaced. Cheers!
Glad it helped!
Thank you for your video's, I Solder every harness as well..
I have started to Solder the OEM harness in for any that have been cut out.. not much more and you never need to redo it.
Keep up the good work
That's awesome you're doing that! Keep up the high quality work!
Good clear instruction, practical and easily understood. Showing how not to do it is also very instructive. Lots of extra detail, all of it relevant.
Thanks for watching!
OK, sorry for the lengthy post, but I think it's required.
Here's my position on the crimping vs. soldering debate (in relation to the automotive environment, anyway). Hopefully, it will help clear up some of the confusion, perceptions and misinformation. -- Or hell..., it might do just the opposite, confusing and enraging some. Either way, I welcome any comments or criticism, constructive or otherwise.
Crimping gets a bad rep primarily from technicians/installers using the wrong stripping or crimping tool(s), the wrong crimp connector/terminal for the application, or both.
The most common problems are caused by using a combo wire cutting/crimping tool. Specifically, a device meant for cutting solid conductor wire and crimping non-insulated connectors (120-240V electrical rel.), being used on multi-strand wire and insulated connectors/terminals. The most common & likely offender is the Klein #1006 (or 1005) Crimping & Cutting Tool, or similar. (I could be wrong, but I believe this is the tool I've seen Doug Bernards (Soundman) using in some of his videos…?)
It's designed for cutting (not stripping) solid conductor wire and crimping non-insulated terminals. When used for stripping insulation on multi-strand wire, the tool will crush and break several strands of the wire. Then, because of the crimping die's stake (pin, or "tit"), it will over-crimp and deform the insulated connector/terminal to the point of severing a large portion the wire strands that remain after the stripping process. There's a high probability that eventually, the termination fails or causes problems when the few remaining strands connected, break from vibration & stress related issues. (Also, some technicians/installers incorrectly place the stake over the seam of a non-insulated connector/terminal.)
NASA makes connections using dedicated wire stripping & crimping tools, along with correctly sized and duty specific connectors. They solder as few connections as possible, soldering mostly high density bulkhead connectors with solder cups. The automotive manufacturers crimp everything. There's a reason for this. Both industries use crimped connections because they provide highly reliable and repeatable results, and the process is a much more efficient method and operation. (Here's the link to the NASA Technical Standard doc, and was included in all my "New Project Packs" for Technicians. nepp.nasa.gov/files/27631/NSTD87394A.pdf (rev. 2016)
When you consider the 600-800 degree temps when soldering, combined with the possibility of damaging a vehicle's interior from accidentally dropping the iron or molten solder on the upholstery or carpet, or the high temps melting adjacent wiring or plastic components, in the realm of automotive electrical/electronics, crimping wire connections and/or terminations is the preferred method.
Again, this is just my position. I've been involved in the low-voltage industry over 30 years. Very early on, I chose to adopt and learn the correct process of this method after experiencing all the issues and failures of the other procedures. I've got a bench full of assorted soldering and de-soldering stations and portable irons, but they never make it into the shop or any vehicles.
I could go into more detail, but you've suffered enough !
Hope this was useful. Happy Trails....
Excellent and accurate post. Those combo pieces of stamped junk should be avoided along with the style splices they are used on. Bare crimp splice + heat shrink is far better and prevents moisture ingress.
Barry Bishop nice post. Would be cool for you to make a video showing your method what you describe here. Let me know if you do. Cheers!
NasA also has a video on how to join wire w/ out soldering too. I usually do the NasA" wrap" and then solder for my drones
I'm glad somebody addressed this. Crimping is almost always superior to soldering when using the right tools and connectors. He was using auto parts store quality tools for those crimps. The only benefit of soldering over crimping is that you can get decent results with equipment you can buy anywhere. If the choice is cheap crimps or solder, then always solder. But anybody who does electrical work for a living (or serious hobby) should have the tools and knowledge to do good crimps. I would not be impressed by an installer who soldered (though it certainly beats an installer who uses cheap connectors and crimpers).
Jeff Maxwell do you have any examples of high quality tools and connectors?
The moment I started watching I knew this was going to start the non-insulated crimp fire-storm. Yes, that’s the way it’s designed but experience leads to changes in process that can work fine. I will put my 2 cents in as someone that was taught in 1987 to use the point on the crimper and have done it that way for 30 years. All the guys in San Diego I ever installed with crimped that way. Many of us went to work at manufacturers, like Directed, Kicker, and JL Audio and we still crimped that way. Now, I do custom wiring in hot rods and I look at crimp connectors as more of a temp fix. But this is common practice.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Great Tips & Techniques Presented Here.
Some additional considerations:
The standard for a submersible well pump ( under water for 5-10 years, 80-300 feet deep) is a crimp butt connector and shrink tubing. No soldering.
Small solid wires between 19-26AWG? Use Dolphin Super B-wire “Beanie” crimp connectors (white dry or blue filled Gelly Beans). You don't even need to strip the insulation as the multiple teeth pierce it when squeezed by pliers. Telephone and alarm companies have been using Dolphin Beanies since the 1950s for fast, reliable connections. Phone companies have since replaced them with Wagos and 3M Scotchlok pigtail Insulation Displacement Connectors (IDC) UG, UR, UY, 314U for solid wire.
Nevertheless, I hate callbacks. In an automotive, marine, industrial, high vibration or salt air environment I prefer soldering a pigtail backed up by a beanie for strain relief and insulation, especially for stranded wire. For larger wire I also solder and use a crimp cap with dielectric grease rather than deal with making a Western Union lineman’s splice and shrink tubing for power, speaker, sensor, and control signals. It doesn't look as good as inline shrink tubing and takes up more space, but if the customer isn't ever going to pull the wire through a hole or cabinet to a a product bolted down for it's life and the wiring is hidden why carry a slit spray paint cap?
A lot of bars/taverns are putting big screen TVs outdoors where humidity gets to the connectors. I smear dielectric grease on all the Cat 5 & Cat 6 4-pair computer RJ-45, HDMI and Coax jacks/plugs. A little dab'll do ya.
One thing,if you have enough wire,offset the joints from each other slightly.Makes a neater job.
Thanks for sharing!
Yes, especially if you are soldering and shrink wrapping ...
Great tip with that spray paint can cap. Thanks!
Glad you were able to find that tip useful.
You're on a roll here now. Video wise. I really like that.
+Vidar G Ya I'm trying to do smaller videos with value still so I can show you guys more stuff on the regular. I'm hoping to do a high pass filter and low pass filter video soon.
I find un-insulated connectors and heat shrink to be my preferred way of splicing. Also the uninsulated connector's OD tends to be very close to the OD of the insulation on the wire being spliced.
Solders main weakness is in high vibration applications.
That's the way I do it looks nice when you heat shrink
Thank you for the informative video, it really helps!
Thanks for your feedback!
I also was twisting each and twisted together after that soldering as you did 6:05, but I saw the method which I really like. No twisting is required just insert wires into wires squeeze with you fingers and solder it.
Raychen invented both shrink tubing and solder sleeves where I worked for 28 years , And yes connecting wires is a science in itself , Great video.
Thanks so much for sharing your experience! I have newer updated videos to this where I focus on wire gauge and more specialized crimping tools. This video was really basic.
Lol, I like your video, very helpful. I just wanted to mention that the reason it was so difficult when you tinned the leads individually was because this method works best when you hold one lead in your other hand making lining up with the other lead easy, if you have steady hands. I've used this method for years so in my defense it works well and just takes a little practice and I will say if your doing a lot of wires it can go quick. it only takes a minute to tin all individual leads then just go through and line them up, you don't need to add additional solder if you do it right. But after watching your video I can see the advantage of twisting the leads to make it stronger,i will most likely be using that technique at some point thanks
Thanks for the comment!
Nice! Helpful! The cap tip is great!
Thanks for watching!
Very informative. Thank you!
Abigail Ponce Glad it helped!
Helping hands are a tool that should be on any bench. I'd definitely recommend it to someone interested in soldering a lot and the exhaust fan is a good thing . Both are great tools and investments as well a great soldering iron. I Like the video ! Electronics tech
Thanks for your feedback!
Thanks a LOT.. I was contemplating doing butt connectors; however, I didn't want the bulkiness and want to put wires in wire loom thus you showed me why to solder/shrink tube...
thanks again!
Jeffrey Riggs Glad it helped steer you in the direction you wanted to go.
Good video. Good explanation. In applications which the current more than 10 amps, I use butt connector with overlapped cables end. I just use small copper tube and shrinkage
Greetings from Indonesia
Thank you! Glad you liked it.
The tooth slot on the crimpers are not designed for use on insulated butt connectors. The rounded end on crimper is for insulated connectors. Toothed crimp is for non insulated. The tooth can actually cut through the insulation and expose the metal. It should be written on the crimper itself. Also putting to much force on the squeezing the butt connector can not only cut the insulation but also cut the wire. Stop squeezing when you hear a snapping sound or crunch. It's a very distinctive sound and it let's you know that the wire is completely depressed. With experience it will become like second nature. Also give a light tug to make sure the connection is good and to be completely certain of a good connection you can measure resistance in the wire. In some cases crimps are a better option especially if you are not experienced in soldering. A cold solder may have you chasing problems in the future.
john vinczencz That's how every experienced installer I've seen personally crimp. I've been taught that way and as you can see in the video it holds well.
AnthonyJ350 Yes it holds well. Not what it was designed for. It means all your experienced installers you know have been taught the wrong use since day one. Read the crimper. It usually says right on it. Insulated and non insulated. You can argue all day. You will still be wrong.
john vinczencz But the tooth doesn't cut through the insulation and creates 2 perfect folds on the solid side of the crimp. Don't I show his in the video? We wouldn't use it this way if it chewed up the insulation. I'm pretty sure cheap blue butt connectors have this issue. Have you tried using the translucent red and blue versions? Honestly have you experimented with these supplies like the one shown and this style of channel lock crimper?
john vinczencz Another note, we use nylon insulated connectors not hard plastic (maybe seen in home applications or off the shelf parts). So if we're not breaking the insulation and it grabs well, why can't we do it? If it broke the insulation all the time we'd always pop fuses or short speakers. When you do 5 to 10 head units a day that will not be profitable when you provide a lifetime warranty.
I have been doing this for 36 years. You are teaching improper practices. You have to keep in mind that beginners and even experienced installers don't necessarily know when to stop squeezing the crimpers and can cut the jacket as well as the wire. The rounded proper end is less likely to be cut. In a video like this you have to be willing to be scrutinized and teach people the proper method of doing things. Yes using the dimpled end works and for the most part will not cut the jacket ( If you are experienced in the field and check to make sure it is not cut). Not everyone watching is going to be experienced and no one wants those individuals to have a potential short behind there dash. For liability reasons alone. Blue Point carries crimpers that have exchangeable teeth that can crimp with the proper round crimp and cannot be over or under crimped if used with the proper jaws. Just asking you to teach the proper method of doing it for your entire audience.
DOD and Aerospace soldering is almost always done with tinned leads. They use solder pots and dip the leads. It's a lot easier. Good video, I wanted to see the crimping part. How do you know how much insulation to strip off the wire before you crimp?
Years of doing it and examining where the wire ends up in the connector when completed.
Good info-thanks!!
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the vid man.
Glad it was able to help you :)
This helped me a lot, about to butt connect my first after market stereo in my toyota echo, just a quick question do the wires need to be touching inside of the connector ?
No they don't
The second way of soldering is better for terminals rather two wire together. In a situation where the terminal is directly fitted on the circuit board first, tin the terminal and then the wire is better since when you put them together and apply heat both will melt and join them faster. This way the circuit board will net exposed to heat for a long period that may reach the rest of the electronic components. This works though if you have a good soldering iron, correct temperature and most important the tip of the iron is tined.
Great video.
Thanks!
If you hold the 2 leads and have the soldering iron resting on something (I rest it on my helping hands) it becomes a lot easier with the tinned tips method.
I'll tin multiple wires on a harness and then quickly join them using this method.
Have you tried posi Locks and their products? pretty slick and tight connects for multi sizes in one connect.
No, I just solder
There i liked and subscribed. I am ready for the next video.
big help, appreciate it
Glad it helped!
dude you are a legend!
Haha thanks!
Great video. Thank you. You deserve a big fat Subscribe!
Thank you so much for watching and subscribing!
Thanks
If you can't get glue lined heat shrink. Add a bit of hot glue to the connection before you shrink. The glue will remelt and form a water tight connection. I used this method on my fog lights up north and has performed well
That's a great tip for exterior applications!
My name is Anthony as well great video.👍👍👍
Thank you!
thanks for the vids very useful :)
Your welcome!
Thanks for the video but a couple of comments/suggestions. I've soldered wires together using both of the methods you discussed (tinning and not tinning) with equal success but generally I don't tin first. However if you are going to tin the leads first then you should NEVER rely on the solder holding them together. After you tinned them you should have twisted them together. It's more difficult to do this after tinning but you can still get 2 or 3 twists and then heat the joint. This results in a much better connection and the solder flows together much more quickly. Almost seemed like you were trying to make this look difficult just so you could show why you don't like to do it. Also, when doing the crimp connections, using the wrong tool (yours is not the best) can result in over crimping and damaging the insulation. Too much force (like putting the end of the crimper on the table) can actually damage the connector by over crimping. Best to get a ratcheting crimper.
It's funny a lot of people make that comment. But practically every installer in North America (and I know of a top 12 Installer that uses the exact same tool), and also MECP guides also demonstrate using that crimper. It works fine with butt connectors with a nylon jacket vs a cheaper plastic. I think this tool is used more because it's simple and works in high volume shops.
Hi, I need to replace my seat belt retractor plug with a new old which might require soldering / splicing. The wire might have 2 small copper wires in it but not 100% sure.
How can I safely & effectively do it the RIGHT way since it is critical safety device that connects to airbag system?
Of course I can always look for experts or expensively replace the whole floor harness but that will be the last resort.
Nice,may i know something about your products?
When soldering, apply the tip of the iron to the wires on the opposite side from where you will touch the solder. That way the wires are forced to get hot enough to melt the solder when it touches the wires on the opposite side. Capillary action, not necessarily gravity, pulls the molten solder into the hot wires.
A mistake many people make when soldering is touching the iron to the wires and immediately placing the solder in the same spot. The hot iron melts the solder, but the wires may not yet be hot enough to draw the molten solder in.. resulting in a cold solder joint. Another mistake resulting in a cold solder joint is soldering correctly, but then jostling or moving the wires before the solder has had a chance to cool and fully solidify.
Regardless of whether you use leaded or lead free solder, pay attention to the flux. It should be acid free flux for any electrical work. Otherwise acid in the flux would corrode wires over time. Solder used for plumbing purposes usually has acid in the flux.
I find that solder usually flows in the direction of the heat source i.e. solder pencil, iron or what have you. That's why I hold the iron on one side and add the solder opposite and rarely directly onto the iron. I'm not sure if it's actually capillary action happening but anyways I agree this your method ✔
Loved the video and when it comes to quality tools nothing surpases a vise form "Powerfist".
Haha, well we're not exactly blacksmiths in the install bay. I have broken one by tightening it too much, really poor cast.
Just never drop the soap when you're near it.
good job thank
Thanks!
How do you feel about those shrink tube connectors with the solder in the middle? I feel it gives the easy of butt connectors with the reliability of solder ? Great video
I would do Marine Grade butt connectors then. This is what we use on emergency vehicles th-cam.com/video/LcCLjbPS-m4/w-d-xo.html
Amazing. The mind of a chiropractor :)
Using your whole body, and thinking long term.
Love it
Excellence therefore is habit.
"How you do anything, is how you do everything."
I always use the right size butt connector for the gauge im working on. I then remove the plastc coating. Put the correct shrink tube over one wire. Crimp the connector, then slide the shrinktube over the crimp and add the heat to shrink the tube. Its sorta a bit more work but the connection is smaller and the shrinktube helps hold the 2 ends together.
Thanks for sharing! Why not just purchase non-insulted connectors and skip one step?
You know, they sell those without the plastic on them.
I'm a marine technician and all I use is heat shrink butt connectors and have never had an issue with them.
Butt connectors are good enough for most applications. Of course soldering is better but not always needed.
How do you feel about the heat shrink butt connectors with low heat solder?
Even aerospace techs use crimping.
I use marine grade butt connectors on Law Enforcement vehicles now. But if I'm intercepting factory wiring, I prefer solder because I don't want to cut factory wiring if I can help it.
Hello Anthony, I see you use a Hakko 599 Tip Cleaner, which works much better for me than a Wet Sponge for the past 20 years or so. It does not cool the tip as much. The only downside is feeling the odd fleck of solder. May I recommend that you mention this to your viewers.
Also, having worked in Ontario Power Stations for ~15 years, I throw my hat in for the use of a Wire Connector Manufacturer Designed/Approved Crimping Tool, such as the Panduit CT-1525 - it has good leverage handles, 3 Dedicated Die Cavities, and best of all, there is no Insulation-Piercing Point to debate - simply crimp and done.
Cheers from a fellow Canadian! :-)
Thanks so much for sharing your experience!
The tinning method that you show around 9 min is most often used on circuit boards. the tinned wire goes into the designed hole easier and then solders easily.
We also use the method when we hardwire power adapters for dash cameras or satellite radio tuners.
tinning the tips is a standard to keep corrosion from forming on the bare wire being exposed to the outside elements. This is crucial when working of very sensitive equipment, aircraft, computers.... ie emergency equipment, or anything when a life could be at risk.. Not a big concern when working in an automotive scenario.
What's the difference if you twist then solder? If heated correctly it covers all of the wire any ways, plus the wires are in more contact with each other.
in the application of tinning you don't want to touch the bare wires, the oils on your hands can start the corrosion process on the bare metal. According to the IPC ( Institute of printed circuits ) Which is just a program that sets a standard for soldering within manufactures. Like I said this really only applies to equipment where you do not want to fail which would usually result in a loss of life. Aircraft, life saving equipment. ect... another fun fact on the lead solder being better than lead free. on aircraft lead free is not allowed due to the characteristics of the lead free solder over time will actually grow out like a spider web which in turn, shorts out other components. But that you don't need to worry when soldering wires together this applies more to circuit cards. -IPC Trainer 5 years
Steven Flores Shouldn't an oxygen free crimp with glue inside be the best connection period? Or technicians have to wear gloves to avoid any contact because if you tin the tips by hand you still twist it to get rid of the strands sticking out, unless a machine is doing it.
When stripping a wire the best method is to use thermal strippers which melts and slices through the insulation. Most practical situations you don't have the luxury of that. So you carefully strip the wires with mechanical strippers. if done correctly you should only strip enough wire that is needed to solder. The stripped wire shouldn't fray if done right. then the first thing you do is tin it, then bend the wire using gloves or tools into the type of splice, Four most common, mesh (which I think is dumb), wrap, hook, or lap...each having its own strengths and weaknesses. Then you clean the splice to rid of any contamination during the manipulation of the wires. then you solder the joints as you explained from the bottom to allow gravity to assist you.
+Steven Flores Cool! Thanks for sharing your insight and experience!
If I'm tapping into the stock head unit speaker outputs to a "speedwire" to the amp, would it be fine using quick connectors vs using butt connectors? If I ever wanted to switch back to stock I could just quick disconnect my amp cables and reconnect the stock wires using the quick connectors..
Use but connectors or solder or build a t-harness.
I'm thinking about adding a tailgate light bar to my truck. One of the wires of light bar needs to be vampire clipped, butt splice, or solder to my reserve light wire. What do you recommend?
If you use a but connector, use a marine grade one with glue. You can solder and put dielectric grease over and use a really good tape, These two videos might help you th-cam.com/video/KA7jsIHGZ9c/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/LcCLjbPS-m4/w-d-xo.html
Tinning usually only done for solid wire also allow better heat transfer, When using stranded wire you mesh then flow solder.
Adding resistance with solder only issue limited application and wire length usually has greater impact on Resistance.
But as rule of thumb automotive I would use Crimping vs Soldering for automotive if not building wire harness or something inside your house.
To each their own, in the industry most of us prefer solder for wire connections, as long as the connection is in a harness that doesn't move they last a very long time. Had my truck for 13 years and the remote starter works flawlessly.
I’d be more interested in knowing how you prefer to tap wires like when installing the heavier gauge ignition wires on a remote start install. Strip back and wrap then solder, strip back spread strands and pass through and wrap wire then tape, or some kind of 3m tap connector? Maybe you could do a comparison video?
If it's really thick I'll use the poke and wrap technique with solder. Typically I pre-tin the factory ignition wire with solder, then wrap the new wire around then apply solder again.
Scotch-Loc's blow dead dogs.
If you have to tap using a connector use a posi-tap.
Add some silicone grease before closing them up if you're concerned about moisture.
Should I use a but or soldered connection when trying to wire in a maf sensor to a car’s loom? (Where there is heat and vibration)
I would solder and use shrink tube with glue.
Those red butt connectors can be heatshrunk and contain glue too. At least the ones I bought like them are like that. The glue actually seeps out of the end. I use them underwater for submersible pumps without any issues.
Those are the good ones, as opposed to auto store trash. The term to look for is "adhesive lined".
You can also do marine grade butt connectors.
The tinning tips method was a NASA standard if I remember. Instead of trying to line up the 2 ends side by side, you use pliers to make small hook loops on each wire then link them together and smash the loops together before soldering. I do prefer the twist method you used... just makes more sense for a stronger hold.
Ya and I install more head units and remote starters than the rocket scientists at NASA. Plus they're in Houston and I'm in Canada where it's a little colder.
J-hook tinned leads, compress, solder then apply heat shrink tubing. This was performed on static instrumentation that I worked on, that wasn't subjected to vibration or large temperature swings.
Even if both connections are done perfectly, the solder will outlast the butt connectors in terms of corrosion. Since most vehicles are on the road for 10, 20, 30 years, I would stick with solder. However, the fact of the matter is that most people do not understand how to solder. If a person does not use flux or at least flux core solder then they are just adding hot metal to wires. The copper has to have the oxidation removed for the solder to create a chemical bond to the copper wire. If this isn't done, then its just metal super glue.
Thanks for sharing!
The lineman or Western Union twist is best for what you do. Tinning is for other uses. The butt-connectors should get a heat-shrink treatment also, right?? Putting silicone inside the regular heat shrink keeps water/corrosion OUT! Good video.
Thanks for watching!
what about when there is a lot of vibration, say for example when splicing trailer hitch harness which is located in the back under carriage of the truck. Which would be better?
You might want to look into these th-cam.com/video/LcCLjbPS-m4/w-d-xo.html
I have a question for you now what if you use the Bell type but connector its where you twist the two wires together and stick them into a Bell connector that looks just like a little bell and then you crimp them together. have you ever tried that method and if so what do you think about that method?
ryan fike I've taken a bunch apart. I think the connection is decent because the wires actually and you crimp it. I just really don't like how it looks.
Hi. Thanks for the video. How would you join a wire in the middle with a butt connector.
You don't really. The bott connector does it when you crimp.
Do some more vids on your truck please i wanna see your stereo system setup
+balle27 It's nothing special really. I've been updating the system before I could really do fabrication. Hence why the sub enclosure might not be my first choice given my experience and skills now. But it still gets the job done and sounds good.
Did you watch this video? th-cam.com/video/EA24kELJdUI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for your good information
Please advise me about “ Waterproof Solder Seal Heat Shrink Butt Connectors with Soldering Sleeve “
I want to use it for my car abs socket witch is changed with very bad condition
But I’m not sure this type is ok or not Due to high temperature under car hood
You want to get "marine grade" butt connectors.
I only use butt connector as the last resort. I try to twist and solder if at all possible. I own a trucking company and corrosion is always a problem with electrical connections. I put a thrid step in my twisted soldered joints, before I slide the heat shrink over the solderd joint I put a thin coat of silicone first heat it and wipe off the excess and you have a water tight seal.
Marine grade butt connectors are good too.
th-cam.com/video/LcCLjbPS-m4/w-d-xo.html
There is a 3rd and much better option!! Check out the new low temperature solder shrink tube connectors. They work great for stereo wiring. It is easier than soldering and shrink tubing.
Thanks for the tip!
Just form a "U" in the wire and push two heavy objects together with the wire between them. It will hold the area you need to solder completely still. No need to buy helping hands. Just use your head and save some money. If there is a "debate" about connector types and power, just use a meter to compare. Pretty easy to end that argument.
Thanks for the feedback!
Hi! what size of heat shrink did you use here?.. Thanks!
Can't really go wrong with solder in my opinion, it's the best way to join the two and still retain strength and aesthetic. Word of advice to any DIYers, don't cut the factory harness, just use a adapter, they aren't that expensive and give you more line to work with and an easy disconnect.
It's our preferred way of making connections in the shop.
I personally like to solder my connections. Just looks cleaner and more pro. :)
I agree!
The “tooth” you used is for non-insulated terminals. The other slot in the crimper is for insulated terminals.
I know. I have a video explaining why I use it th-cam.com/video/i2le4BN0bP8/w-d-xo.html
Thank Doug for today's topic lol
+Amaury Corona Haha what? Every other installer channel has a video like this. It's only fitting I should do my own right?
+AnthonyJ350 haha just messing with you, brother. Thanks for the videos! :)
Amaury Corona Haha yaaaa I know. Thanks for watching them!
I agree with using bench and your weight to crimp but most of the time on a truck you're reaching into something to do it . you know that the stake that you used for the crimp is only supposed to be for non-insulated only . I agree with your use of it . I think the other only mashes it and does a very p### poor job . Soldering is the best connection but in trash truck environment , outside the cab filling the connector with silicone grease and a solid crimp works as well
Ya every installer I know uses the tooth to crimp. It seems to be a trade secret that is very effective, because anyone fresh from a text book will disagree but I've done it thousands of times and know it's a good crimp. You saw in the video with the weight test.
Soldering is not flexible right? So if it’s on an area where it needs to bend slightly, it will break right?
Soldered connections can be in gradual bends without being bent because it's so short. You don't really want it where the wire moves i.e. wiring harness going to a door or tailgate hatch.
hehe just like the feel of the tool
If you have to make a whole bunch of connections spread them out over however much pigtail you have.
It doesn't leave a huge lump that you can't wrap into your harness.
That's an issue if you use butt connectors.
@@AnthonyJ350 It's an issue with shrink tube over solder too.
Take one look at a 144 pin Ford harness, or even one of the smaller (70ish?) connectors....
You just run out of damn room.
@@jimurrata6785 But why are you soldering over 100 times on a plug? If you're making that many connections you should be depinning and make a new connection and rebuild the plug and run your new wire.
@@AnthonyJ350 when some moron cuts the harness with a .045" disc instead of pulling the retaining bolt from the bulkhead connector it's an F'ng nightmare.
But if you can't get (and swap) a complete harness, it's gotta be fixed.
Little bit late but I wanted to share this
1- the Heat also sucks in the Sada Always put your torch or in on the opposite side and the shadow will actually float to the Heat this is especially true when soldering brazing Plumbing pipes but works the same on electrical
That last method of soldering forget it it's the worst way to solder and you going to get cold joints you don't have to worry about having Helping Hands for that because the joints are going to be cold and a waste of your time it is not the right way of soldering
Thanks for sharing!
The difference in resistance between soldering and crimping is negligible so there would be no difference at all in the sound quality between the two methods.
Connecting the wires do I color match
reg trap I would. Makes a cleaner and uniformed look.
What Brand Connectors Do You Use? hard to find a good brand. Thanks in advance :)
Currently we're using Install Bay's insulted nylon butt connectors.
AnthonyJ350 what model is your Channelock crumper?
I don't know, I just can't see how soldered joints could add resistance (or at least any measureable resistance). Does the lead/tin solder conduct more poorly than the copper wire itself? Yes. However, the copper isn't replaced by the solder, simply amalgamated on the surface to form one contiguous mass of metal to hold everything firmly together. The physical connection you made by twisting the wires nice and twist is still there within the joint, and any gaps are filled in with solder as well to increase the effective diameter of the joint. That's just my logic anyway.
mannys9130 Indont think it really makes a difference. I think the argument is because the theory electrons around the wire as opposed to inside the copper.
AnthonyJ350 Yeah, that is definitely true. High frequency AC obeys the skin effect.
One suggestion I have is to stagger your splices. That keeps the bundle size down.
2 questions. How long does it take to do that and make it look good and what does it look like? If you solder you don't really get a bundle.
AnthonyJ350 staggering the splices takes zero extra time to do just takes a little more mental effort.
in high heat areas (engine bays) I heard you should always crimp.
If we can't get tach digitally we sometimes have to get it from an injector or distributor and we wrap and solder it.
How about the use of copper ferrule?
Ferrules will be another video coming up
Here is a tool we use to hold the wires together while soldering.
www.automotivecircuitsolutions.com/collections/products/products/wire-holding-clamp-soldering-aid-helping-hand
Automotive Circuit Solutions
Cool little tool but im pretty sure I can make that for about a buck.
And this one...
www.amazon.com/dp/B001C6NJOA/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IDNGQHXW8PU1O&colid=19GUY0SELZ24U&psc=0
The 2 clips are held on magnetically.... Very versatile...
Will the quality of the connection affect the sound quality of my stereo?
Depends on the specific wire you crimp. But if you ask someone with a normal (nothing special) car sound system. You get a "probably not" but if you ask an audiophile you get a "YES IT CHANGES IT"
Usually does
Order the ARES 8-Inch Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper here:amzn.to/2jqYhBY
What if you do heat shrink over the butt connectors?
You could
And actually one thing not mentioned in this video is the crimper your using is actually for non insulated connectors. Crimps have a insulated and non insulated. That numb that pushes it down actually damages the insulation on the butt connector. Fyi
I have a video addressing that concern th-cam.com/video/i2le4BN0bP8/w-d-xo.html
8:45 Was funny, never seen someone struggling so hard to solder 2 pre-tinned wires together.
It's hard when there's a camera in the way.
A good viedeo
viswanathan iyer Thank you!
You cant hear the difference, its the same thing only soldering it will make the connection stay together longer, but there the same thing in general. They both last for years.
You didn't complete but connectors by using heat to shrink it. I have question or how to say request for an video on how to properly connect more than to connections with soldering it and use some sort of heat tubes shrink tubes thanks...
These butt connectors don't have the glue in them, so there's no need to heat them up. I'll see what I can do in a future video.
Can I use these butt connectors on the Phase and hall motor wires ?
How much voltage is going to pass through it? It's a crimp connection at the end of the day, you just need to match the correct size for the wire gauge.
@@AnthonyJ350 48v 20ah battery 350w motor wheel and maybe a 48v 30-50 ah battery..
@@anio6865 I don't see an issue, you might also want to look into this style of connector as well
th-cam.com/video/LcCLjbPS-m4/w-d-xo.html
Hey how do I know what color butt connectors to use
Depends on the gauge of wire you're using.
10-12 yellow, 14-16 blue, 18-20 red
How is butt connecting easier to reverse than soldering? You have to cut either one.
If not soldering i use uninsulated butts or crimp caps
In almost 10 years I have not had a single failure of any connections
I haven't had a failure in 15 years. Both will work. I use marine butt connectors if I do that kind of connection now.
what about butt plugs? will those work?
You have to pull it out of your ass first!
For some people they will.
Anthony,I have a very basic question. I remove my dash plate and there is a wire that is connected to nothing.I strip it and put a meter on it to find it is pumping 12v when ignition key is on but it's dead when ignition is off. Can that wire be used as the switched power(red wire on most harnesses) no matter what?I mean to say is there any danger with it?I sometimes worry if the wires go somewhere else in the car and are not meant to be used for car stereo power.
John Adams The deck typically pulls amperage from the main constant line. If you're worried about it throw a low amperage rated fuse on the line you're concerned about.
AnthonyJ350 Well I pulled the fuse in the box that was labeled "radio" and the wire was completely dead even with ignition on so apparently the line is fused already.
John Adams You should be able to replace it with the appropriate fuse and it should just work after
Another question Anthony.I am just about done installing the deck into my work truck.Its an older tractor and where the deck is going to go there are a lot of wires in the way.I used zip straps to get most of the wires up and out of the way,however one particular harness is still slightly in the way.The back corner of the deck hits it and I have to push firmly to get it in.That or I can drape the harness over the back side of the deck.The question is .....Is it ok for wires to be touching the deck or is it a potential short or fire?Thanks for addressing my concerns.
It's a potential for a short. Can you make a hole and re-route the wires or remove a section for the wiring to go into?