Good information for most folks. I however prefer the detented crimper for connectors like Klien makes or similar. For heavier gauge wiring with large connectors, such as battery terminals for instance, I place electrical solder inside the connector with the wire, crimp and then apply propane to heat up the connector until the solder bubbles out fully at the wire side. Of course I use closed end connectors for this. This insures a complete water-tight solid connection with the best of both worlds. Then I always apply marine grade heat shrink to these. It is manditory to always use marine grade everything on marine applications salt of fresh water. I have also adopted like you have all marine grade for my automotive projects. I also recommend the pre-solder butt connectors with the heat shrink built in. Never had any failures in fresh or saltwater even with submerged connections such as a boat trailure using these techniques. I also prefer the use of eyed connectors verses spade for a more secure connection. In the power plant and electric utility world this is the standard, btw.
On those pre-soldered butt connectors, they sound great in theory, but in actual use, not so much. If you cut one open you'll find that you're creating a cold joint with the solder only flowing around the outside of the conductors. In use, you're heating the solder before the conductor - which is exactly how you make a cold joint. And given that you've got the connector's insulation is acting as an insulator, you're never going to get the conductors up to temp without burning the insulation.
Great video. If I am running wire on the exterior of my vehicle I run it through some black rubber hose to give me the best abrasion protection. It maybe a little over kill but I rest better knowing I do this. Plus The only connectors I use are the heat shrink ones and I use a ratcheting crimp tool.
Thanks for the video, very informative and a lot learnt from all of your build! One (probably stupid) question, when wiring to an appliance or switch with smaller wires or terminals to your circuit that's a heavier guage wire how do you connect them? I'm trying to avoid having lots of different sizes wiring if possible.
The only down-side is marine grade anything will cost more because of the extra materials and environmental exposure withstand build. If you expect moisture to be a problem, especially salt-water, then marine grade is mandatory. Normal automotive would be satisfactory in automotive applications.
Didn't know the diff between insulated and non-insulated crimpers. Good to know. Question - if you're a soldering maniac, do you recommend tinning before crimping? For the absolute best connections...?
Many amazon reviews are complaining that this type of connectors hafe to thin metal and bend to easy, I have problems to find good ones. I like more ratched plierers 9and they make more stronger compression, and you have to use propper right tools for different types of crimping connectors, ther are many types. Don't twist or solder the wires it weakening the connection. By the way many people don't know even that the crimping strength can be adjusted on the pliers.
good video, i have a question, i have heat shrink butt connectors and i need to connect 2 wires in one end and 1 wire in the other end, the 2 wires in one end actually fit perfectly even if it is the same butt connector size, should i twist both wires together before crimping to the other end wire? it is to hardwire strobe lights to a switch, thanks!
Hodaka? Hoh-DAH-kuh?! Man how old are you? I know - MY age..at least (probably ;-). Takin' me back to my Wombat, Super Combat days with that Proper noun...lol. Thanks for the video my fellow dirt trail exploring friend.
I have been l looking to get one of the heat shrink terminal kits, but none of them come with #8 ring terminals like the ones commonly found on the Blue Seas fuse blocks. Do you use the #10 ring terminals on #8 screws?
It does on most all the connectors in my kit but didn't on the one I grabbed to use in the video. Like you said you want the heat shrink to cover the end completely 👍
I’m planning to install a blue sea fuse panel in my engine bay to run a relay activated 12 volt line to the cargo area in my SUV. What gauge wire should I use to run back there?
hello why I always got no answer about what should terminal lug I use in my thhn stranded 3.5 in Plug in breakers. I ask everybody for so long here in youtube. Pls help
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Great overview. I liked how you explained the difference the marine grade wiring makes. I am going to use these in my newest van build.
Thanks...marine grade is defiantly worth the premium 👍
Good information for most folks. I however prefer the detented crimper for connectors like Klien makes or similar. For heavier gauge wiring with large connectors, such as battery terminals for instance, I place electrical solder inside the connector with the wire, crimp and then apply propane to heat up the connector until the solder bubbles out fully at the wire side. Of course I use closed end connectors for this. This insures a complete water-tight solid connection with the best of both worlds. Then I always apply marine grade heat shrink to these. It is manditory to always use marine grade everything on marine applications salt of fresh water. I have also adopted like you have all marine grade for my automotive projects. I also recommend the pre-solder butt connectors with the heat shrink built in. Never had any failures in fresh or saltwater even with submerged connections such as a boat trailure using these techniques. I also prefer the use of eyed connectors verses spade for a more secure connection. In the power plant and electric utility world this is the standard, btw.
On those pre-soldered butt connectors, they sound great in theory, but in actual use, not so much. If you cut one open you'll find that you're creating a cold joint with the solder only flowing around the outside of the conductors. In use, you're heating the solder before the conductor - which is exactly how you make a cold joint. And given that you've got the connector's insulation is acting as an insulator, you're never going to get the conductors up to temp without burning the insulation.
Great demo, thanks for all the info, the best i have seen so far, straight to the point.
Great video. If I am running wire on the exterior of my vehicle I run it through some black rubber hose to give me the best abrasion protection. It maybe a little over kill but I rest better knowing I do this. Plus The only connectors I use are the heat shrink ones and I use a ratcheting crimp tool.
Awesome information. Appreciate your time putting this together. Helpful in my work
Great info on the wire and tools. Guess I know what I'll be using for my motorcyles now.
Marine grade is great for bikes as well 👍
Great summary! Worth mentioning how amazing the ratchet style wire strippers are. I got a pair for my build and wish I had gotten them sooner.
For sure, I should have mentioned that in the video. One handed operation with no problems!
Any recommendations on this ratcheting wire stripper?
@@darladuchesscontadour5380 I got the Klein Tools 11061 off of Amazon....no complaints.
@@darladuchesscontadour5380 personally my favorite wire stripper is this Klein, but its not ratcheting: amzn.to/2TCicCr
Wow, you just saved me lots of bucks, great video! !!
Great video! Came over from Wander The West.
Thanks for posting!
Thanks Mate, glad you found it useful 👍
Well done! I learned something new today!
Thanks for the video, very informative and a lot learnt from all of your build!
One (probably stupid) question, when wiring to an appliance or switch with smaller wires or terminals to your circuit that's a heavier guage wire how do you connect them? I'm trying to avoid having lots of different sizes wiring if possible.
With insulated 16 gauge stranded copper wire - do you prefer to use the pink(16-22) heat shrink connectors or the blue (14-16) heat shrink connectors?
Excellent video!
Maybe I wasn't paying attention well enough but, is there a downside to using marine-grade all the time? Thanks for all the info! Subbed!!
The only down-side is marine grade anything will cost more because of the extra materials and environmental exposure withstand build. If you expect moisture to be a problem, especially salt-water, then marine grade is mandatory. Normal automotive would be satisfactory in automotive applications.
Didn't know the diff between insulated and non-insulated crimpers. Good to know. Question - if you're a soldering maniac, do you recommend tinning before crimping? For the absolute best connections...?
Excellent video.
Many amazon reviews are complaining that this type of connectors hafe to thin metal and bend to easy, I have problems to find good ones.
I like more ratched plierers 9and they make more stronger compression, and you have to use propper right tools for different types of crimping connectors, ther are many types.
Don't twist or solder the wires it weakening the connection.
By the way many people don't know even that the crimping strength can be adjusted on the pliers.
Thanks good information, just what I was looking for A Motorcycle build, why auto stores dont carry these products ill never know :)
Do you find it very difficult to solder marine grade wire?
good video, i have a question, i have heat shrink butt connectors and i need to connect 2 wires in one end and 1 wire in the other end, the 2 wires in one end actually fit perfectly even if it is the same butt connector size, should i twist both wires together before crimping to the other end wire? it is to hardwire strobe lights to a switch, thanks!
Hodaka? Hoh-DAH-kuh?! Man how old are you? I know - MY age..at least (probably ;-).
Takin' me back to my Wombat, Super Combat days with that Proper noun...lol.
Thanks for the video my fellow dirt trail exploring friend.
Yeah Buddy. Used to collect and restore them. Awesome bikes!
Great video!!
I have been l looking to get one of the heat shrink terminal kits, but none of them come with #8 ring terminals like the ones commonly found on the Blue Seas fuse blocks. Do you use the #10 ring terminals on #8 screws?
Does the heat shrink go past the tip of the air in the connector? I imagine that is how water can get into the wire, through the end if not sealed
It does on most all the connectors in my kit but didn't on the one I grabbed to use in the video. Like you said you want the heat shrink to cover the end completely 👍
What brand connectors do you recommend
Thank you for helpful video
Are those the titans for insulated terminals...like 17 bucks... or the ones for heat shrink connectors like 40 bucks
They are the $40 heat shrink units. amzn.to/2ARiXRv
We’re is the link to parts
You can find them in the description below the video 👍
Very helpful
I’m planning to install a blue sea fuse panel in my engine bay to run a relay activated 12 volt line to the cargo area in my SUV. What gauge wire should I use to run back there?
Depends on how many amps you are looking to pull and the length of the wire.
if the non marine wire is heat shrinked aren't you pretty good ?
Its better than nothing but a marine terminal is sealed to the tip to keep out moisture and has glue built in for good adhesion
Did you use 1/4” wire loom for the duplex marine wire?
I'll have to check but I think you want at least 3/8" for the duplex wire
I miss my super rat.
Super rats are awesome 👍
Next compare marine wire to teflon insulated silver plated aerospace wire
👍👍🤩❗
hello why I always got no answer about what should terminal lug I use in my thhn stranded 3.5 in Plug in breakers. I ask everybody for so long here in youtube. Pls help
Not sure what you're talking about.
Audio is horrendous. Back up from the mic and get an anti peh filter for it or just cover it with a sock