Thank you for giving your experience of trying different tools, blades/discs and methods, thank the commenters for trying to help tailor some of your ideas, for the comentors that are just negative go watch something else, why is it when someone just try's to upload good information that helps narrow down the options and warns of possible dangers, others have to trash a good persons trial and error videos.
Sometimes I also learn from even the negative comments. But it's also nice to hear something positive, I appreciate your kind words. Thanks for taking the time 👍
Thanks for the video. First thing I noticed that you used the diamabrush in the same manner as the sander pad...with the grinder tilted up to make contact with just the tip area. The Diamabrush is meant to be used flat. Second, with the diamabrush the direction you want is right to left WITH the grain. So next time try to have the board perpendicular to you.
Thank you! This is just why I love youtube, I get good advice from people with experience. And people do read the comments. So thank you for sharing, and for watching 👍
Great video. I had an old piece of stained furniture to test it on. I wanted to try out some flap discs I just purchased. I tried them at an angle and flat before I watched your video and had the same issues you did. However, your suggestion about making sure you never stop even to reverse course was very helpful. I tried with a 120 disk, plenty fast, not perfectly flat, but for a deck it would probably be fine. Plus, I think this takes practice, which I plan do more of before next spring's deck work. Like many who commented, I've been through the gambit of other sanders and chemicals. It either doesn't work or way to slow. I do plan to use my random orbital sander on the test furniture to see how long it takes to completely smooth it. By the way, I just had my faux log cabin siding sanded and stained by professionals, they used angle grinders, and it looks amazing, so you can definitely get better with practice.
Great feedback! It sounds like you're much more experienced than I, but you came to some close conclusions. It's nice to hear the pros were using angle grinders also 😆 hey thanks for watching and for your comments 👍
This is great. I'm about to tackle a similar project, painting wood siding with many layers of old paint. It's so helpful to see your trial and error and corrections, I'm sure it's going to save me some time. Thanks!
The plan is to use the Diamabrush but I bought a bunch of flapdiscs in various grits too, just in case. I've found that no matter how good my plan seems, I never know how it's going to pan out so I want to be ready with a plan B.
The one thing I don't like about flap disks is that they get gummed up to easily when trying to remove deck stain. I have gummef up 6 Diablo flap disks so far and I am not even halfway done sanding my deck. Then again, my deck also has quite a bit of surface damage and needs to be leveled out. Going to try a diamond disk of some sort today but I am worried that these types will tear into the wood too fast. Trial and error I guess. EDIT: I am probably preaching to the choir here but being the greenhorn that I am, I just found out how much cheaper I can get flap disks and carbide disks at Harbour Freight. Good God Home Depot charges a lot!
I used about 3 flap disk to remove the paint from my deck and got less than 1/4 of the way. It was very difficult because I had to keep scraping the discs clean from the old paint. Frustrated I went to Lowe's and got the diamabrush for $49 and it was the best decision I made. It removed the old paint much faster and didn't have to keep cleaning the blades. If you have a medium to big size project then get the diamabrush.
I’m working on my 400 square-foot, 30 year old deck. Multiple layers of solid stain and then two years ago that paint which was a poor decision. Now I’m stripping it all off. In a couple of days of work although we spread it out just doing Couple hours a day for a few days we have got the whole deck basically cleared. Went through two discs because we have lots of nails and screws and we tried to go in rows in between the lines of screws. Still chipped up the Diamabrush brush a bit but I would’ve spent more and more time using stripper. I will now have to go and clean up down the lines of where the screws and nails are. But I got the majority of the paint off in a very reasonable time using the Diamabrush. I was in contact with the Diamabrush people, and they told me that as long as there’s the diamond grit showing on the blades, you have life. The blades do wear down incrementally, and you can use up virtually all of the grit. We also got the optional metal dust shroud, which replaces your guard and has a flap at the top so you can run it flat against the edge of your house or any edges and hook a vacuum up to it, which didn’t get rid of all the dust, but sucked up a huge amount of the real fine toxic dust into my shop vac I started out using the disk without the unthreaded flange behind the desk. But I found, as the blades wore down about halfway that the shroud was starting to interfere with getting flat on cupped or uneven boards. So I put the flange on to bump the diameter brush out just a little and then give me a better clearance on the dust shroud, still allowing me to use the vacuum. I could certainly run it without the shroud, but I didn’t want all of that dust going all over my yard and house. There’s still plenty to clean up, but it took care of a good part of it.
@@jeffellis6544 thanks so much for that! I learned a ton from what you wrote. It sounds like the diama brush can go a long distance! And I think when I have to do this again, it may be the diama brush in between the nails/ screws, and the flap disc around the screws. I had no idea about their adapter either, thanks for sharing that!
@@anesthesiadreamin -glad to share. We first tried stripper on the first 3‘ x 14‘ section and it took me a $50 gallon of stripper and several applications over several hours and lots of scraping and it still wasn’t clean at all. The Diamabrush brush is fast. Fast fast fast. I like it a lot I think one would’ve done the whole deck if it had been a newer deck, and not so many nails and screws. But I would’ve ended up spending way more in chemicals and a lot more labor if I’d stayed with stripping and power washing Right now I’m trying to figure out the best flap discs to use to go over the areas where the nails and screws are that I glossed over lightly with the Diamabrush If anyone hears reading that and has suggestions for me, happy to hear them. Probably going to get a stack of cheaper, sandpaper, flat desks and then a few of the type 29 grinding discs. Still researching…
Regardless of what you use, when you use an angle grinder technique is everything. I can't stress this enough and I see people make this mistake all the time when using an angle grinder "let the tool do the work". And no time should you have to press an angle grinder. You should never have to use muscle with an angle grinder regardless of what you're using it for. In this application, sanding boards, either of his attachments would work fine but you turn the grinder on and you let it do the work Your job is to keep it parallel on the board If you tip forward or back or side to side you will gouge the wood and leave tattletales. The proper way to do this is to maintain a parallel plane with the wood and the angle grinder will want to go right when you reach the end of the path to the right. Your job is to control that right momentum. In order to make it go right, with the slightest of pressure, You raise the back. This will change the angular momentum and put more pressure on the front which will throw left. Another way to avoid having tattletails in your wood is don't do just one board at a time and don't run with the grain or go across it, go at a diagonal. Pick a corner and start working out away from the corner maintaining that same diagonal then go to the corner opposite that one and work the whole thing that way. You will end up having an x pattern. The main thing is having the right tool for the right job. I don't think I'd be crawling my deck with this it'd be easier to get a drum sander, the same as what you use for a floor, except you wouldn't step down your grits, You would run at 36 grit for the entire job and maybe use your angle grinder for the corners. Same rule applies go diagonal one way and then the other. Whatever you do... Whatever tool you decide that you want to use do not go across the grain. That just tears the wood up.
The whole point of grinding is to actually make paint/stain stick to surface so you do not need to regrind. Actually , the grinding should leave a rough surface and not perfectly smoothen it out.
For anyone remarking that you didn't hold the dianond wheel flat enough id suggest they buy it and try themselves. The way and angle grinder spins you have to slighty favor an edge to have control of it. Rockong backnand forth feathering it out. For blown up example of this. If you ever use a large floor buffer you have to go back and forth rocking the buffer from the front to back side to keep control of it. On pretty Every rotational sander youll find its almost never applying complete even pressure across the whole disc. The physics will fight this from happening
What the diamabrush manufacturer suggests, holding the wheel as flat as possible, ONLY works if the wood you're working is also flat. The problem arises when doing restores is the wood you're working on will be warped due to weathering and traffic so each piece will be different. Some will be flat, many will cup. When the wood isn't flat you have to attack the surface at an angle. For me, I had to favor the handle side of the grinder and go from right to left motion.
@@fatsubie7604 for sure friend! The 40 grit definitely cuts faster, but will leave bigger grooves. The 80 grit of course smaller grooves, and the 120 grit is even less. Harbor freight sells them pretty cheap, maybe get one of each and try them out, and see what you like, or it can live with at least 🙂 I'm assuming you have a harbor freight close to you, I don't 👎
I didn't really answer your question well, I thought the 120 grit new cut pretty much as fast as the 40 or 80, but it doesn't cut fast as long as the 40 or 80, in other words the 120 seems to lose it s effectiveness pretty quick. I didn't mind the grooves, I would probably use 80 myself
I got a lot of comments about using a drum sander, which I didn't even know existed when I made this video. Might work better and be faster? IDK. Also, a couple deck experts have commented on using Defy brand wood stain, if that's what you are looking for. I used Thompsons but had to apply it at least twice a year. So next I am gonna try the Defy brand. Hey thx for your comments and for watching! Good luck with your project
@@anesthesiadreamin I don’t know about Defy. I use “Seal-Once Marine Premium Wood Sealer” never more than once a year and I could get away with every other year. I’m in Minnesota though. We don’t get the kind UV beat down that places in the Southwest or high elevations get.
I couldn't agree more! Definitely the flap discs, I use them all the time on metal and steel for welding projects, even use them to round off sharp steel edges. Plus, if they do break down faster by hitting screws, no big deal, they are cheap. But honestly, I have not hit a screw with the Diamabrush ON PURPOSE 🙂 because I am scared of destroying it
I actually don't have any rails on my deck 🙂 I know that doesn't help you. I'm sorry I don't have a good solution for that. Maybe check out the bauer band file belt sander from harbor freight, it's about 50 bucks, but it looks like you could sand up into the corners pretty easily. I've never tried it, but it looks like it would work.
@@anesthesiadreaminI would assume hes talking about masonary abrasive discs or cup wheels for grinding stone, tile, ceramics. I don't think they'd do very well on wood since I've never heard of the connection being made that they work on wood as well. But that's just me making an educated guess. so take it with a grain of salt.
I am glad you try to do the work yourse,lf, but you really should have sought advice first. Never use a 1/4 pad sander for this work, that is for finishing. I would have recommended using renting a commercial drum floor sander and you would have finished the entire job, including leveling the deck, removing all the paint, and finishing with 150 grit. One last comment. I would never attempt that job without a sust shroud and vacuum and dust mask and other safety apparel. Good luck!
Diamabrush designed to be used right to left. With the grain of the wood and never across grain or circular. If you are Belgian the board or have erratic RPM you're putting pressure on the grinder instead of just letting it walk itself and you control it with the handles. That grinder didn't seem like it had anything for rpm to spin that Diamabrush.
The skinny ones are cut off wheels they’re not even grinders you have a sanding will grinding wheel and you also have a cutting wheel for cutting little skinny ones tenants of hurricane they’re not for sending you could use it for sanding I use it for sending as well but those are for cutting
I’m glad I didn’t buy that thing! It looks like that powered paint stripper. But it has a depth adjustment. And carbide blades. It costs hundreds. I don’t need it either. I’m stripping 13 wooden steps to my deck. That I stupidly painted with Rustoleum Restore paint with sand in it. It cracks and water seeps in. I replaced one step. I made my own tool. Out of a bush-hog blade i made a big chisel to go in an air hammer. If I’m careful it’ll shave off the thick paint without gouging too bad. Then I smooth it out with a belt sander. Thankfully my deck is Timbertech. It’s durable. But it gets hot in the sun. I had to build a roof over it.
Yeah but you still have to go over it with a Finer a grit. So you don’t have to worry about the waviness or the scratches you have to go over it with a regular sander regardless you can’t just go over in one sweet
Thank you for giving your experience of trying different tools, blades/discs and methods, thank the commenters for trying to help tailor some of your ideas, for the comentors that are just negative go watch something else, why is it when someone just try's to upload good information that helps narrow down the options and warns of possible dangers, others have to trash a good persons trial and error videos.
Sometimes I also learn from even the negative comments. But it's also nice to hear something positive, I appreciate your kind words. Thanks for taking the time 👍
Thanks for the video. First thing I noticed that you used the diamabrush in the same manner as the sander pad...with the grinder tilted up to make contact with just the tip area. The Diamabrush is meant to be used flat. Second, with the diamabrush the direction you want is right to left WITH the grain. So next time try to have the board perpendicular to you.
Thank you! This is just why I love youtube, I get good advice from people with experience. And people do read the comments. So thank you for sharing, and for watching 👍
Thanks. Heading to Harbor Freight for some flap disks this weekend for my garage door. I think I’ll go with the 120 grit though
Just remember to be careful, the flap disc can gouge more so than the diama brush 👍
Great video. I had an old piece of stained furniture to test it on. I wanted to try out some flap discs I just purchased. I tried them at an angle and flat before I watched your video and had the same issues you did. However, your suggestion about making sure you never stop even to reverse course was very helpful. I tried with a 120 disk, plenty fast, not perfectly flat, but for a deck it would probably be fine. Plus, I think this takes practice, which I plan do more of before next spring's deck work. Like many who commented, I've been through the gambit of other sanders and chemicals. It either doesn't work or way to slow. I do plan to use my random orbital sander on the test furniture to see how long it takes to completely smooth it. By the way, I just had my faux log cabin siding sanded and stained by professionals, they used angle grinders, and it looks amazing, so you can definitely get better with practice.
Great feedback! It sounds like you're much more experienced than I, but you came to some close conclusions. It's nice to hear the pros were using angle grinders also 😆 hey thanks for watching and for your comments 👍
This is great. I'm about to tackle a similar project, painting wood siding with many layers of old paint. It's so helpful to see your trial and error and corrections, I'm sure it's going to save me some time. Thanks!
What wheel are you going with?
The plan is to use the Diamabrush but I bought a bunch of flapdiscs in various grits too, just in case. I've found that no matter how good my plan seems, I never know how it's going to pan out so I want to be ready with a plan B.
The one thing I don't like about flap disks is that they get gummed up to easily when trying to remove deck stain. I have gummef up 6 Diablo flap disks so far and I am not even halfway done sanding my deck.
Then again, my deck also has quite a bit of surface damage and needs to be leveled out. Going to try a diamond disk of some sort today but I am worried that these types will tear into the wood too fast. Trial and error I guess.
EDIT: I am probably preaching to the choir here but being the greenhorn that I am, I just found out how much cheaper I can get flap disks and carbide disks at Harbour Freight. Good God Home Depot charges a lot!
Thanks for this video. I am stripping my desk and this video really taught me a lot.
I used about 3 flap disk to remove the paint from my deck and got less than 1/4 of the way. It was very difficult because I had to keep scraping the discs clean from the old paint. Frustrated I went to Lowe's and got the diamabrush for $49 and it was the best decision I made. It removed the old paint much faster and didn't have to keep cleaning the blades. If you have a medium to big size project then get the diamabrush.
Good to know, thanks for the good feedback. People do read the comments, and this is a real life experience comment 👍
I’m working on my 400 square-foot, 30 year old deck. Multiple layers of solid stain and then two years ago that paint which was a poor decision. Now I’m stripping it all off. In a couple of days of work although we spread it out just doing Couple hours a day for a few days we have got the whole deck basically cleared. Went through two discs because we have lots of nails and screws and we tried to go in rows in between the lines of screws. Still chipped up the Diamabrush brush a bit but I would’ve spent more and more time using stripper.
I will now have to go and clean up down the lines of where the screws and nails are. But I got the majority of the paint off in a very reasonable time using the Diamabrush.
I was in contact with the Diamabrush people, and they told me that as long as there’s the diamond grit showing on the blades, you have life. The blades do wear down incrementally, and you can use up virtually all of the grit.
We also got the optional metal dust shroud, which replaces your guard and has a flap at the top so you can run it flat against the edge of your house or any edges and hook a vacuum up to it, which didn’t get rid of all the dust, but sucked up a huge amount of the real fine toxic dust into my shop vac
I started out using the disk without the unthreaded flange behind the desk. But I found, as the blades wore down about halfway that the shroud was starting to interfere with getting flat on cupped or uneven boards. So I put the flange on to bump the diameter brush out just a little and then give me a better clearance on the dust shroud, still allowing me to use the vacuum. I could certainly run it without the shroud, but I didn’t want all of that dust going all over my yard and house. There’s still plenty to clean up, but it took care of a good part of it.
@@jeffellis6544 thanks so much for that! I learned a ton from what you wrote. It sounds like the diama brush can go a long distance! And I think when I have to do this again, it may be the diama brush in between the nails/ screws, and the flap disc around the screws. I had no idea about their adapter either, thanks for sharing that!
@@anesthesiadreamin -glad to share.
We first tried stripper on the first 3‘ x 14‘ section and it took me a $50 gallon of stripper and several applications over several hours and lots of scraping and it still wasn’t clean at all. The Diamabrush brush is fast. Fast fast fast. I like it a lot
I think one would’ve done the whole deck if it had been a newer deck, and not so many nails and screws.
But I would’ve ended up spending way more in chemicals and a lot more labor if I’d stayed with stripping and power washing
Right now I’m trying to figure out the best flap discs to use to go over the areas where the nails and screws are that I glossed over lightly with the Diamabrush
If anyone hears reading that and has suggestions for me, happy to hear them. Probably going to get a stack of cheaper, sandpaper, flat desks and then a few of the type 29 grinding discs. Still researching…
Regardless of what you use, when you use an angle grinder technique is everything. I can't stress this enough and I see people make this mistake all the time when using an angle grinder "let the tool do the work". And no time should you have to press an angle grinder. You should never have to use muscle with an angle grinder regardless of what you're using it for.
In this application, sanding boards, either of his attachments would work fine but you turn the grinder on and you let it do the work Your job is to keep it parallel on the board If you tip forward or back or side to side you will gouge the wood and leave tattletales.
The proper way to do this is to maintain a parallel plane with the wood and the angle grinder will want to go right when you reach the end of the path to the right. Your job is to control that right momentum. In order to make it go right, with the slightest of pressure, You raise the back. This will change the angular momentum and put more pressure on the front which will throw left.
Another way to avoid having tattletails in your wood is don't do just one board at a time and don't run with the grain or go across it, go at a diagonal. Pick a corner and start working out away from the corner maintaining that same diagonal then go to the corner opposite that one and work the whole thing that way. You will end up having an x pattern.
The main thing is having the right tool for the right job. I don't think I'd be crawling my deck with this it'd be easier to get a drum sander, the same as what you use for a floor, except you wouldn't step down your grits, You would run at 36 grit for the entire job and maybe use your angle grinder for the corners. Same rule applies go diagonal one way and then the other. Whatever you do... Whatever tool you decide that you want to use do not go across the grain. That just tears the wood up.
I did a huge deck 1600 sqft and used 2.1 diamabrushes. Nails or screws are what will kill them and they do slow down once worn.
It works wonders did my whole deck, but you gotta watch out for either screwheads or nailhead if you hit them, it destroys it
is it possible to "improvise" a larger sanding disc with pad (9" or more) on a 5"/6" angle grinder for stripping/resanding a deck? thanks
@@ronenborshevsky8144never tried it but it would cover more surface area and likely get a flatter/smoother result. Good idea!!!
Excellent video extremely informative really helped me out!
The whole point of grinding is to actually make paint/stain stick to surface so you do not need to regrind. Actually , the grinding should leave a rough surface and not perfectly smoothen it out.
For anyone remarking that you didn't hold the dianond wheel flat enough id suggest they buy it and try themselves. The way and angle grinder spins you have to slighty favor an edge to have control of it. Rockong backnand forth feathering it out. For blown up example of this. If you ever use a large floor buffer you have to go back and forth rocking the buffer from the front to back side to keep control of it. On pretty Every rotational sander youll find its almost never applying complete even pressure across the whole disc. The physics will fight this from happening
The comparison of how to control a floor buffer is a perfect example for this scenario.
What the diamabrush manufacturer suggests, holding the wheel as flat as possible, ONLY works if the wood you're working is also flat. The problem arises when doing restores is the wood you're working on will be warped due to weathering and traffic so each piece will be different. Some will be flat, many will cup. When the wood isn't flat you have to attack the surface at an angle. For me, I had to favor the handle side of the grinder and go from right to left motion.
Thanks for the video. Would you recommend 40 or 80 grit for flap disc?
@@fatsubie7604 for sure friend! The 40 grit definitely cuts faster, but will leave bigger grooves. The 80 grit of course smaller grooves, and the 120 grit is even less. Harbor freight sells them pretty cheap, maybe get one of each and try them out, and see what you like, or it can live with at least 🙂 I'm assuming you have a harbor freight close to you, I don't 👎
I didn't really answer your question well, I thought the 120 grit new cut pretty much as fast as the 40 or 80, but it doesn't cut fast as long as the 40 or 80, in other words the 120 seems to lose it s effectiveness pretty quick. I didn't mind the grooves, I would probably use 80 myself
Can diamond cups be used? They are designed for concrete surfaces but I am thinking why not? Also would the dust shroud work with a flap disk?
Cool video. Exactly what I was looking for. Much appreciated 👍
I got a lot of comments about using a drum sander, which I didn't even know existed when I made this video. Might work better and be faster? IDK. Also, a couple deck experts have commented on using Defy brand wood stain, if that's what you are looking for. I used Thompsons but had to apply it at least twice a year. So next I am gonna try the Defy brand. Hey thx for your comments and for watching! Good luck with your project
You got a good heart.
Thsnk you! I do love your videos.
I think using a belt sander from the beginning will give a better final finish.
agreed. And if I hadn't let it get sooo bad, the belt sander probably would have been quite easy
@@anesthesiadreamin what did you seal it with afterwards?
@@sswwooppee I used Thompsons every 4 months or so. But some commenters have mentioned the Defy brand, I haven't used it but plan to
@@anesthesiadreamin I don’t know about Defy. I use “Seal-Once Marine Premium Wood Sealer” never more than once a year and I could get away with every other year. I’m in Minnesota though. We don’t get the kind UV beat down that places in the Southwest or high elevations get.
Perhaps, but the diamabrush is a monster when it comes to fast paint removal. I did one side of a 6' x 50' fence in about 5 hours.
Either way I don’t see how you’ll escape hitting screw heads. Which disc was less damaged due to this?
I couldn't agree more! Definitely the flap discs, I use them all the time on metal and steel for welding projects, even use them to round off sharp steel edges. Plus, if they do break down faster by hitting screws, no big deal, they are cheap. But honestly, I have not hit a screw with the Diamabrush ON PURPOSE 🙂 because I am scared of destroying it
I just used it the results on wood in real use is the best but one screw and there goes 50 bucks and they do losen up
Good to know! Thanks for letting everybody know your results 👍
How do you you do railing?? Isn’t your tool too big to fit between the rails?
I actually don't have any rails on my deck 🙂 I know that doesn't help you. I'm sorry I don't have a good solution for that. Maybe check out the bauer band file belt sander from harbor freight, it's about 50 bucks, but it looks like you could sand up into the corners pretty easily. I've never tried it, but it looks like it would work.
Try out stone abrassives. They just last longer than the flap disks but you get the same results as the diamabrush
I've never heard of what you're talking about. Is there a power tool that runs those, or do you use those manually?
@@anesthesiadreaminI would assume hes talking about masonary abrasive discs or cup wheels for grinding stone, tile, ceramics. I don't think they'd do very well on wood since I've never heard of the connection being made that they work on wood as well. But that's just me making an educated guess. so take it with a grain of salt.
you know you can use a flat sanding disk the same way you use an orbital sander with an angle grinder no need of Amazon gimmicks or a flap disk.
Have you ever used a tool from Wagner called paint stripper?
Yes, I tried a couple different brands, did not work for this
I am glad you try to do the work yourse,lf, but you really should have sought advice first. Never use a 1/4 pad sander for this work, that is for finishing. I would have recommended using renting a commercial drum floor sander and you would have finished the entire job, including leveling the deck, removing all the paint, and finishing with 150 grit. One last comment. I would never attempt that job without a sust shroud and vacuum and dust mask and other safety apparel. Good luck!
What about an older deck that has some mixed old and new boards and lots of nails screws? Wouldn’t that tear up the drum sander belts?
Diamabrush designed to be used right to left.
With the grain of the wood and never across grain or circular.
If you are Belgian the board or have erratic RPM you're putting pressure on the grinder instead of just letting it walk itself and you control it with the handles.
That grinder didn't seem like it had anything for rpm to spin that Diamabrush.
The skinny ones are cut off wheels they’re not even grinders you have a sanding will grinding wheel and you also have a cutting wheel for cutting little skinny ones tenants of hurricane they’re not for sending you could use it for sanding I use it for sending as well but those are for cutting
I’m glad I didn’t buy that thing!
It looks like that powered paint stripper. But it has a depth adjustment. And carbide blades. It costs hundreds. I don’t need it either.
I’m stripping 13 wooden steps to my deck. That I stupidly painted with Rustoleum Restore paint with sand in it.
It cracks and water seeps in. I replaced one step.
I made my own tool. Out of a bush-hog blade i made a big chisel to go in an air hammer. If I’m careful it’ll shave off the thick paint without gouging too bad. Then I smooth it out with a belt sander.
Thankfully my deck is Timbertech. It’s durable. But it gets hot in the sun. I had to build a roof over it.
Sounds like a cool tool that you built! did you make a video by chance? I would like to see it in action
Yeah but you still have to go over it with a Finer a grit. So you don’t have to worry about the waviness or the scratches you have to go over it with a regular sander regardless you can’t just go over in one sweet
Too biased towards cheaper discs
Maybe so
Too much talking and explaining bro just show us what each sander does.