many thanks for the advice. you confirmed that in my experience of 26 years, I never doubted that it was necessary to listen to professionals before going to a client. You didn't waste your time making this videо.
Finally, someone who really seems to know what he is talking about as what he says makes absolute sense. Experience is usually the source of good information. I am preparing to redo my pressure treated wood deck once again to remove the solid stain and deal with many large cracks as well. I have tried many other "solutions" before but failed including Rust-oleum's "Restore" which was a real disaster which they refunded my money for the material only, but they also were held liable during a suit for $9.3 million. It was awful, it flaked and what didn't flake out within a few months was extremely difficult to sand off. Thanks for the information.
Excellent video. I learned a ton watching this video! I’m glad I watched it because I was about to go at my deck with a 180 or 220!!! And I decided to rent a deck sander! You saved me a ton of time which I don’t have a ton of these days! Great video. Thank you!
First time homeowner with a deck that feels like it's entirely made of splinters. (I'm guessing because of pressure washing, but who knows) Anyway, just want to say thank you very much for this video. It was clear, concise, and felt like hearing advice from one of my uncles. Definitely feel better armed for getting my deck from Survivor Challenge to Barefoot-safe Walking Area.
Excellent video, Wizard. Thanks for making it. I was going to use my drum sander but I was quite worried about the cupping of the boards. Now I'm going to rent a standup orbital.
I watched about 10 different deck sanding videos. In the end I rented a drum sander and managed to get my cupped boards flat. It took six straight hours using 24-grit, but now its flat and the old finish is off. I live in France and can't find this type of large orbital sander, so I guess it isn't the only way.
I've got my deck rebuilt with pressure treated pine, but now it's been raining each week how long should I wait to sand after the rain. Thx. Love the video
Thank you for this video, very informative, You mentioned not using a very coarse grit when sanding a softer wood. I have a well worn redwood deck. Would you suggest a first run of 65 grit followed by a pass at 100 grit or something similar? Thank you Mr. Wizard.
Hi Wizard, I used my new Essex 1218R today! Started with 100 should have used 60-80 (like you said) for the stubborn stain areas. I will find out if the Osborn brush will have noticeable circles. Q: How do you know when you’ve done enough passes on the deck boards with the big boy? I was also nervous about turning too. Since it would go against the grain for a moment. Love the content!
Thank you! I pull back on my sander and turn it so that it is not hitting the wood as directly. I have also used it to strip with using 20 grit and going back with 60-100 grit. Usually I am 80 grit on PT, cedar, and softwoods then 100 grit on Ipe and other hardwoods as a finish run.
Not sure about your question. Many reasons to sand a deck as illustrated in the video. These types of sanders are called floor sanders, I did not name them. I believe you are just calling it, generally, a deck sander. In the U.S. I am not aware of anything called a deck sander. To me though, they would be synonamous.
whats the name of that big sander... im looking to buy one of my own ... I was going to buy the Hiretech HTF-2 Orbital Deck Sander.... would that work ? would it get into warped decking... let me know if you get a chance 🙏🏼🤙🏼?
Hi Wizard of Wood, Awesome video! When would you sand versus only clean, brighten, and stain or seal? And after sanding, would you still do the process of clean, brighten, stain or seal?
Tough task to remove a solid stain or paint. Not many strippers are effective on solids and it takes quite an effort. Then there is usually some sanding involved. deckandwoodstain.com Has a product DRP Stripper Plus that helps remove these types of coatings. Deck Restoration Plus is the manufacturer of these products.
I'm trying to get the paint and stain off this mahogany deck. I've used the large orbital, and a drum sander, and stain stripper, I can not get through the paint everywhere. (drum sander hit the corners, lik eyou said, orbital just rubs the surface of paint, 36grit) do you have any tips?
Interesting, some of the belt sandpaper manufacturers recommend sanding at an angle of 15-45 degrees towards the grain to solve the problem you outlined, have you tried that?
Best video I’ve seen so far. One question though. My deck is in rough shape and has been neglected. Deep grooves splintered etc. is it best to pressure wash first at low pressure. Use a cleaner and then brightner before sanding or is that all just just needless if I’m gonna sand it and then seal it?
Hi! We just started sanding our IPE wood deck. While the 60 grit orbital stand up sander worked well for most of it, we still have patches that won’t sand given that our planks are not totally even. We’ve tried a hand orbital sander but still isn’t working well. Would you have any advice?? Thank you !
Radial saw blade is what we have done. Between boards is tough. We also let our customer know it may not be 100% so expectation is set. If you are not good with a radial saw, just use a hacksaw blade, or something similar, by hand.
I have the same question. Some old stain comes off easily, but some is so strongly adhered to the wood, I don't see why I should put in so much effort to removing it. Can I not just put in new stain over the old stain if it's the same color ?
I have a new build 2 year old I believe the porch is pine or pressure treated no stain I am going to use c2 stain not sure about sanding do I need to sand? Or just clean it is not diry or stain. Cynthia
I understand using a heavier so I can go faster. I don't understand why I should follow up with finer. My deck wood is not a smooth composite or anything to begin with.... So I figure the heavier grit will help smooth out the ridges and actually get more of the valley portions?
Steve, check out my videos using Osborn brushes. Maybe on this channel and the Deck Restoration Plus Channel. Also, if you called my office please call back. I got a message with no number. Thanks
Considering renting sander for mahogany deck that’s not flush. Has uneven deck sealer left after fungicide with power wash treatment. Use 100 grit? I’m A bit nervous to tackle this…
The only reason I'm sanding is to make sure that the paint sticks as good as possible. I'm going to do a deck with a oscillating rental similar to the "big guy". I'm going to use the heaviest grit so I can go faster. Should I use a finer grit after? The challenges on this deck, as far as the grain, etc, is not sanded smooth to begin with. So it's more or less going to be getting the ridges and some valleys, each to an extent. There's no warping or rotting, it's just normal blanks of wood.
I believe that your comment may be incorrect regarding the “Drum Sander”. Personally I did use a drum sander on my deck. The reason for this was to remove a lot of material and also go against the grain and remove all of the cupping. By doing this with a drum sander I was able to get back to virgin wood that was extremely flat and smooth. I think that your video is very good but your comment (without explaining the option for a drum sander) should have just been left out. The reason for my opinion is that I was going to an extremely different effort for a different reason than maybe most people are. Otherwise, a great video and please don’t take offense at my comment. It was just a suggestion.
No offense taken, I appreciate the feedback. If you used the drum sander as you explained to remove cupping then the one attachment in the video that I called “Diamabrush” would have saved you a lot of time. In essence you used a sander to plane with. This tool goes on a grinder and has blades that are replaceable. There is also a larger attachment that goes on a floor scrubber. It is 20 inches in diameter. This would have really made short work of your project. My main point is, there are tool out there for restoration that many do not know about or consider. They think a pressure washer and/or combined with chems and products are all you use. I think there is a video somewhere on the channel of us using it.
Hi Wizard - I currently have an acrylic solid stain on my deck. From my understanding strippers will not remove the stain and it will need to be sanded off. So for my deck restoration process, what are the steps that you recommend? My current thinking is that I would pressure wash -> sand -> wait 3-5 days -> clean/brighten -> apply new stain. Is that an appropriate high level process?
No, first it would take too long. The sanders shown in this video are the ones to use as described in the video. There are other tools that “plane” a deck of you were to go that route. See “diamabrush”
my husband took the power washer to the decks and made all these little lap marks all over the place and there was sawdust everywhere! It looks like hell and didn't even get all the algae off completely in places. I can't believe he didn't stop when he saw what was happening but no, he just kept going and I discovered it later. It looks horrible. I wanted to just scrub it down with a cleaner and a push broom but he decided to use the power washer and obviously just blindly went at it without doing any research. He tried to tell me the green bits was just the green coming up through the wood. This is a 4 yr old deck made from treated lumber that I put Thompson's water seal on two years ago and it needed to be reapplied. So now I am researching what to do to restore this deck and I am so angry because I don't know if it can be fixed and ever look decent again. I don't want to have to paint it! He said oh we can't sand it because the boards will have cupped - obviously he wasn't realizing that there is more than one type of sander....then he said well we'll just flip the boards all over. That would involve removing all the railings and the outside minisplit unit for the built on sunroom between the two decks and that also means I'd have to hire the HVAC people to come out and remove the unit and then pay them later to come back and reinstall that unit - like I am made of money?! Either way, it is now going to cost ME time, effort and more money to try to deal with because i don't feel I can trust him to resolve it. I don't think the power washer cut into the wood to the point it made actual grooves you can feel with your fingers but there was sawdust all over the deck furniture that was off to the side. Do you think sanding will help this or am I just going to have to apply semi-opaque or opaque stain onto it and have a maintenance issue the rest of my life?
It will likely need to be sanded at this point to remove the scarring. This is just a guess, I assume he used a pressure washer and that is all. Pressure causes damage and does not clean or restore. We all know that bleach and soap remove mold, mildew, and clean. The pressure washer should only be used to rinse with! Oxygenated bleach is an excellent cleaner to help remove rooted growth on wood. A paint or hardware store have products or here is a link to our products. Use these and a pressure washer to rinse with and you will see a big difference. The products give a better result and make it easier to use the pressure washer because everything is already “loosened” up. deck-restoration-plus-deck-and-wood-stain.myshopify.com
It can be fixed, not the first people this has happened to. People often make the mistake of applying a solid stain at this point and regret it later when it starts to peel. Re-clean to remove growth, allow to dry, rent a floor sander, sand the scarring out and then seal or stain with your choice of product. In your husbands defense it is hard to see how bad it is when the wood is wet. Obviously the other choice would be to contact a contractor in your area that specializes in this service.
Wizard…Regarding composite, my 20 year old fiber on was power washed and that roughened up the surface. I have cleaned it with a bleach mixture which cleans just fine, but I want to get rid of the rough surface to make it look more like new. Can this surface be sanded to make it smoother and then re-stained or treated to make it look a little nicer. PS we have also run a circular saw between the decking because it grew together from water absorption over the years. So putting the gaps back looks better, but I want to improve the service so I’m asking about sanding and retreating.
These are two separate item for separate circumstances. If you are sealing or staining the deck you will want to remediate the organic growth like mold and algae before coating. If you seal or stain over it, it will quickly grow underneath and into the coating. Then you will need stronger chemicals to strip it off. If you are worried about chemical use oxygenated bleach, which is very safe. You can find this in most paint stores or use Oxyclean. Sanding is used to remove coatings or “freshen and smooth” rough wood surfaces. The. Chemicals used correctly and neutralized help you to use less pressure and to cut down on the amount of sanding needed.
I had a question, during this video, you stated that going with over 100 makes the wood difficult to seal. I have a teak deck on a boat that we leave without a sealer or a varnish, so would it benefit me to sand it at a higher grit to close the pores? Would that help it last longer? If so, what grit would you recommend to have a nice smooth finish that will last long on teak
Yes it would certainly help. A lot of teak boats have a stain and then multiple clear coats that you manage. Usually a finer grit of sanding and reapplying t clear coats as it weathers. Eventually you would need to to strip/sand at some point as the sun does it’s thing.
@@wizardofwood, we like the natural finish, is there something you would recommend as a seal that is not going to make it hard or add work to the job? The natural teak is pretty easy to maintain. We just do a 2 step clean every so often.
Thank you for the fast reply. What grit do you recommend to sand so the pores are closed as you said. And would that be enough so we do not have to use a sealant
Can I get by with just sanding my old deck paint off and then either just brighten and then paint with Deck Over or do I need to clean, brighten and then paint? So the process would be Sand, vacuum, clean, brighten and paint Deck Over. What do you think? Or could I sand, vacuum, or paint? forgive me, Wizard, for wanting to be a lazy 64-year-old lady with bad back. I don't want to be lazy.
First off, Deck Over and other similar products are terrible for old decks though people use them hoping to extend the life of the deck. Truth is you are putting a very solid, immovable product on wood that is constantly moving by expansion and contraction. When this happens it will pop and peel. This usually happens rather quickly and then there is buyers remorse because now you need to replace the wood. Some comes off in sheets and other areas won’t come off. Many contractors run away from these jobs. With that said, sanding is part of the equation and used for removal and prep. The other part is to remove organics like mold, mildew, algae, etc. before applying a coating. It is wise to also include a cleaning and brightening step to this equation. Solid stains are a better alternative but they will also peel on an older horizontal floor.
This guy is giving very poor information. Do not take into account any of this information. I do this for a living. I use a drum sander, mine is powerful enough to take out the cupping of the board. We punch the nails with an air powered nail puncher. Screws get taken out, widen the hole, then put them back. My work is flawless. This guy has an agenda. Not to mention, wire brush deck Sanders exist to. Just search blitz deck sander. I think it's rubbish, but you'll at least see how full of it this guy is.
This guy lol if you can sand a wood floor right, decks are child’s play. A drum machine works perfectly and am assuming he doesn’t know how to use one. If you have a month, this will work fine
Great video! I have a large Yellow Pine deck screwed down form the top. Can you sand over the screws? Can I re-screw the deck after I assume the screw heads are sanded off?
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many thanks for the advice. you confirmed that in my experience of 26 years, I never doubted that it was necessary to listen to professionals before going to a client. You didn't waste your time making this videо.
Finally, someone who really seems to know what he is talking about as what he says makes absolute sense. Experience is usually the source of good information. I am preparing to redo my pressure treated wood deck once again to remove the solid stain and deal with many large cracks as well. I have tried many other "solutions" before but failed including Rust-oleum's "Restore" which was a real disaster which they refunded my money for the material only, but they also were held liable during a suit for $9.3 million. It was awful, it flaked and what didn't flake out within a few months was extremely difficult to sand off. Thanks for the information.
Nice job Wizard. I have studied several DIY porch sanding videos. Your advice makes the most sense. Thank you.
Excellent video. I learned a ton watching this video! I’m glad I watched it because I was about to go at my deck with a 180 or 220!!! And I decided to rent a deck sander! You saved me a ton of time which I don’t have a ton of these days! Great video. Thank you!
Very helpful. I was about to use a round sander on my deck
me too
The cedar tip was a gem. Thanks
Good stuff here!!! Just what I was looking for.
Thanks for the crash course. I’m going to tackle this job soon on my deck.
Exactly the kind of information I needed! Thanks!
thanks for so much details. I am going to sand my deck.
First time homeowner with a deck that feels like it's entirely made of splinters. (I'm guessing because of pressure washing, but who knows) Anyway, just want to say thank you very much for this video. It was clear, concise, and felt like hearing advice from one of my uncles. Definitely feel better armed for getting my deck from Survivor Challenge to Barefoot-safe Walking Area.
Was wondering the differences between the sander and what is best and found out much more. Thank You, Sir, Wizard of Wood!
Thanks Wiz!
Awesome directions Thank you!
Thanks Wizard!!
Excellent video, Wizard. Thanks for making it. I was going to use my drum sander but I was quite worried about the cupping of the boards. Now I'm going to rent a standup orbital.
No orbital, nothing that goes in circles.
I watched about 10 different deck sanding videos. In the end I rented a drum sander and managed to get my cupped boards flat. It took six straight hours using 24-grit, but now its flat and the old finish is off. I live in France and can't find this type of large orbital sander, so I guess it isn't the only way.
Great info. Thanks
Thanks for the great tips wizard!
👍👌👍👌👍👌good info.drum sander on deck doesn’t work..believe me .now a bigger problem to deal with !
Very nice. Thank you.
I've got my deck rebuilt with pressure treated pine, but now it's been raining each week how long should I wait to sand after the rain. Thx. Love the video
Thank you for this video, very informative, You mentioned not using a very coarse grit when sanding a
softer wood. I have a well worn redwood deck. Would you suggest a first run of 65 grit followed by a
pass at 100 grit or something similar? Thank you Mr. Wizard.
You’re awesome! Thank you.
Hi Wizard, I used my new Essex 1218R today! Started with 100 should have used 60-80 (like you said) for the stubborn stain areas.
I will find out if the Osborn brush will have noticeable circles.
Q: How do you know when you’ve done enough passes on the deck boards with the big boy?
I was also nervous about turning too. Since it would go against the grain for a moment.
Love the content!
Thank you! I pull back on my sander and turn it so that it is not hitting the wood as directly. I have also used it to strip with using 20 grit and going back with 60-100 grit. Usually I am 80 grit on PT, cedar, and softwoods then 100 grit on Ipe and other hardwoods as a finish run.
thanks, great information.
Great content
What's the best option and why to sand a deck... Floor sander or deck sander?
Not sure about your question. Many reasons to sand a deck as illustrated in the video. These types of sanders are called floor sanders, I did not name them. I believe you are just calling it, generally, a deck sander. In the U.S. I am not aware of anything called a deck sander. To me though, they would be synonamous.
whats the name of that big sander... im looking to buy one of my own ... I was going to buy the Hiretech HTF-2 Orbital Deck Sander.... would that work ? would it get into warped decking... let me know if you get a chance 🙏🏼🤙🏼?
Hi Wizard of Wood, Awesome video! When would you sand versus only clean, brighten, and stain or seal? And after sanding, would you still do the process of clean, brighten, stain or seal?
yes, I want to know too!
I bought my home and the deck is not stained but painted. How would I got about taking paint out?
Tough task to remove a solid stain or paint. Not many strippers are effective on solids and it takes quite an effort. Then there is usually some sanding involved. deckandwoodstain.com
Has a product DRP Stripper Plus that helps remove these types of coatings. Deck Restoration Plus is the manufacturer of these products.
I'm trying to get the paint and stain off this mahogany deck. I've used the large orbital, and a drum sander, and stain stripper, I can not get through the paint everywhere. (drum sander hit the corners, lik eyou said, orbital just rubs the surface of paint, 36grit) do you have any tips?
Interesting, some of the belt sandpaper manufacturers recommend sanding at an angle of 15-45 degrees towards the grain to solve the problem you outlined, have you tried that?
Best video I’ve seen so far. One question though. My deck is in rough shape and has been neglected. Deep grooves splintered etc. is it best to pressure wash first at low pressure. Use a cleaner and then brightner before sanding or is that all just just needless if I’m gonna sand it and then seal it?
I would, using a deck cleaner just to make sure you remove any mold, mildew, algae, and organic growth.
@@wizardofwood Thanks for the reply, ill do just that. Your channel is gonna save my home.
I hate prep work lol, thanks for the video
It isn’t always the most fun but, “The better the prep, the better the end result!” Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi! We just started sanding our IPE wood deck. While the 60 grit orbital stand up sander worked well for most of it, we still have patches that won’t sand given that our planks are not totally even. We’ve tried a hand orbital sander but still isn’t working well. Would you have any advice??
Thank you !
Any tricks for in between boards? I feel like there would be a tool for this, but my guess is they would wear out too quickly.
Radial saw blade is what we have done. Between boards is tough. We also let our customer know it may not be 100% so expectation is set. If you are not good with a radial saw, just use a hacksaw blade, or something similar, by hand.
Great Video. If I want to stain my deck and I using the same color. Is it necessary to remove the old stain?
I have the same question. Some old stain comes off easily, but some is so strongly adhered to the wood, I don't see why I should put in so much effort to removing it. Can I not just put in new stain over the old stain if it's the same color ?
I have a new build 2 year old I believe the porch is pine or pressure treated no stain I am going to use c2 stain not sure about sanding do I need to sand? Or just clean it is not diry or stain. Cynthia
I understand using a heavier so I can go faster. I don't understand why I should follow up with finer. My deck wood is not a smooth composite or anything to begin with.... So I figure the heavier grit will help smooth out the ridges and actually get more of the valley portions?
What type of sander is that machine called?
What kind of a sander is that? What is it called?! I need to rent one!
Dumb question... can ya sand vertical boards of the fence, that are all fuzzy fm homeowner using too high of pressure? Tume consuming yes but do'able?
Steve, check out my videos using Osborn brushes. Maybe on this channel and the Deck Restoration Plus Channel. Also, if you called my office please call back. I got a message with no number. Thanks
Hi Everett,
I only have a random orbital sander not an orbital sander. Is there a difference or are both suitable? Thank you!
Considering renting sander for mahogany deck that’s not flush. Has uneven deck sealer left after fungicide with power wash treatment. Use 100 grit? I’m A bit nervous to tackle this…
The only reason I'm sanding is to make sure that the paint sticks as good as possible. I'm going to do a deck with a oscillating rental similar to the "big guy". I'm going to use the heaviest grit so I can go faster. Should I use a finer grit after? The challenges on this deck, as far as the grain, etc, is not sanded smooth to begin with. So it's more or less going to be getting the ridges and some valleys, each to an extent. There's no warping or rotting, it's just normal blanks of wood.
I believe that your comment may be incorrect regarding the “Drum Sander”. Personally I did use a drum sander on my deck. The reason for this was to remove a lot of material and also go against the grain and remove all of the cupping. By doing this with a drum sander I was able to get back to virgin wood that was extremely flat and smooth. I think that your video is very good but your comment (without explaining the option for a drum sander) should have just been left out. The reason for my opinion is that I was going to an extremely different effort for a different reason than maybe most people are.
Otherwise, a great video and please don’t take offense at my comment. It was just a suggestion.
No offense taken, I appreciate the feedback. If you used the drum sander as you explained to remove cupping then the one attachment in the video that I called “Diamabrush” would have saved you a lot of time. In essence you used a sander to plane with. This tool goes on a grinder and has blades that are replaceable. There is also a larger attachment that goes on a floor scrubber. It is 20 inches in diameter. This would have really made short work of your project. My main point is, there are tool out there for restoration that many do not know about or consider. They think a pressure washer and/or combined with chems and products are all you use. I think there is a video somewhere on the channel of us using it.
@@wizardofwood Thank you for understanding my comment and thanks for your tip on the”Diamabrush” ! Thanks again for your video!
I didn’t hear what kind of sander to use. Just heard not to use an inside sander or circular sander. Did I miss something?
Would you recommend using a drum style sander to avoid the swirl marks you mentioned since this machine is like an orbital. Thank you
Disregard
I just heard your reasoning. I didn’t watch long enough.
Hi Wizard - I currently have an acrylic solid stain on my deck. From my understanding strippers will not remove the stain and it will need to be sanded off. So for my deck restoration process, what are the steps that you recommend? My current thinking is that I would pressure wash -> sand -> wait 3-5 days -> clean/brighten -> apply new stain. Is that an appropriate high level process?
So you suggest to clean (pressure wash) then sand after drying and then stain after 5 days of sanding
Correct
@@wizardofwood how long would you wait to sand after pressure washing?
Great video! I have a large Yellow Pine deck that is screwed down from the top. Can you sand over the screws? Can I re-screw the deck after sanding?
No it will rip the sandpaper. Need to sink any nails or screws before sanding.
@@wizardofwood Thank you!
So, can we sand off the old paint and then vacuum the dust and then repaint with Deck Correct or something?
See my response on your other post.
Do you have to use white pad or will red pad also work? Thanks!
Hi, I have a new cedar deck I'm preparing to stain. Would a belt sander be faster than my 4" orbital and still be ok? Thanks.
What about the cracks and crevices ?
if some of the deck boards are bowed, can you "plane" them down with a drum sander?
No, first it would take too long. The sanders shown in this video are the ones to use as described in the video. There are other tools that “plane” a deck of you were to go that route. See “diamabrush”
what type of big sander is that? Square Buff floor sander? or similar?
This one is an Essex Silver Line, I do have an old Square Buff though!
Thanks Wizard!
my husband took the power washer to the decks and made all these little lap marks all over the place and there was sawdust everywhere! It looks like hell and didn't even get all the algae off completely in places. I can't believe he didn't stop when he saw what was happening but no, he just kept going and I discovered it later. It looks horrible. I wanted to just scrub it down with a cleaner and a push broom but he decided to use the power washer and obviously just blindly went at it without doing any research. He tried to tell me the green bits was just the green coming up through the wood. This is a 4 yr old deck made from treated lumber that I put Thompson's water seal on two years ago and it needed to be reapplied. So now I am researching what to do to restore this deck and I am so angry because I don't know if it can be fixed and ever look decent again. I don't want to have to paint it! He said oh we can't sand it because the boards will have cupped - obviously he wasn't realizing that there is more than one type of sander....then he said well we'll just flip the boards all over. That would involve removing all the railings and the outside minisplit unit for the built on sunroom between the two decks and that also means I'd have to hire the HVAC people to come out and remove the unit and then pay them later to come back and reinstall that unit - like I am made of money?! Either way, it is now going to cost ME time, effort and more money to try to deal with because i don't feel I can trust him to resolve it. I don't think the power washer cut into the wood to the point it made actual grooves you can feel with your fingers but there was sawdust all over the deck furniture that was off to the side. Do you think sanding will help this or am I just going to have to apply semi-opaque or opaque stain onto it and have a maintenance issue the rest of my life?
It will likely need to be sanded at this point to remove the scarring. This is just a guess, I assume he used a pressure washer and that is all. Pressure causes damage and does not clean or restore. We all know that bleach and soap remove mold, mildew, and clean. The pressure washer should only be used to rinse with! Oxygenated bleach is an excellent cleaner to help remove rooted growth on wood. A paint or hardware store have products or here is a link to our products. Use these and a pressure washer to rinse with and you will see a big difference. The products give a better result and make it easier to use the pressure washer because everything is already “loosened” up. deck-restoration-plus-deck-and-wood-stain.myshopify.com
It can be fixed, not the first people this has happened to. People often make the mistake of applying a solid stain at this point and regret it later when it starts to peel. Re-clean to remove growth, allow to dry, rent a floor sander, sand the scarring out and then seal or stain with your choice of product. In your husbands defense it is hard to see how bad it is when the wood is wet. Obviously the other choice would be to contact a contractor in your area that specializes in this service.
Hi Wizard,
How much will you charge to sand a deck, about 1500 sqf? And How long will it take to sand it using a belt sander? thanks
Sorry for the late reply, I would not sand 1500 square feet with a belt sander. If nothing else rent a floor sander.
Wizard…Regarding composite, my 20 year old fiber on was power washed and that roughened up the surface. I have cleaned it with a bleach mixture which cleans just fine, but I want to get rid of the rough surface to make it look more like new. Can this surface be sanded to make it smoother and then re-stained or treated to make it look a little nicer. PS we have also run a circular saw between the decking because it grew together from water absorption over the years. So putting the gaps back looks better, but I want to improve the service so I’m asking about sanding and retreating.
Is it ok to sand treated deck boards or should I powerwash them? Concerned about the chemicals in the wood.
These are two separate item for separate circumstances. If you are sealing or staining the deck you will want to remediate the organic growth like mold and algae before coating. If you seal or stain over it, it will quickly grow underneath and into the coating. Then you will need stronger chemicals to strip it off. If you are worried about chemical use oxygenated bleach, which is very safe. You can find this in most paint stores or use Oxyclean. Sanding is used to remove coatings or “freshen and smooth” rough wood surfaces. The. Chemicals used correctly and neutralized help you to use less pressure and to cut down on the amount of sanding needed.
I had a question, during this video, you stated that going with over 100 makes the wood difficult to seal. I have a teak deck on a boat that we leave without a sealer or a varnish, so would it benefit me to sand it at a higher grit to close the pores? Would that help it last longer? If so, what grit would you recommend to have a nice smooth finish that will last long on teak
Yes it would certainly help. A lot of teak boats have a stain and then multiple clear coats that you manage. Usually a finer grit of sanding and reapplying t clear coats as it weathers. Eventually you would need to to strip/sand at some point as the sun does it’s thing.
@@wizardofwood, we like the natural finish, is there something you would recommend as a seal that is not going to make it hard or add work to the job? The natural teak is pretty easy to maintain. We just do a 2 step clean every so often.
Thank you for the fast reply. What grit do you recommend to sand so the pores are closed as you said. And would that be enough so we do not have to use a sealant
@@grochachAbove 200 grit. I use 300-400 between coats of marine varnish.
Sorry to be clear, this is for the deck we walk on, not handles/rails. And we don’t varnish. Will this still be a good technique?
Can I get by with just sanding my old deck paint off and then either just brighten and then paint with Deck Over or do I need to clean, brighten and then paint? So the process would be Sand, vacuum, clean, brighten and paint Deck Over. What do you think? Or could I sand, vacuum, or paint? forgive me, Wizard, for wanting to be a lazy 64-year-old lady with bad back. I don't want to be lazy.
First off, Deck Over and other similar products are terrible for old decks though people use them hoping to extend the life of the deck. Truth is you are putting a very solid, immovable product on wood that is constantly moving by expansion and contraction. When this happens it will pop and peel. This usually happens rather quickly and then there is buyers remorse because now you need to replace the wood. Some comes off in sheets and other areas won’t come off. Many contractors run away from these jobs. With that said, sanding is part of the equation and used for removal and prep. The other part is to remove organics like mold, mildew, algae, etc. before applying a coating. It is wise to also include a cleaning and brightening step to this equation. Solid stains are a better alternative but they will also peel on an older horizontal floor.
Do I have to power wash first?
You do not “have” to but on most cases we do. A good stripper will remove a bulk of the coating and then it is easier to sand.
@@wizardofwood What if you have mildew?
also, deck is mahogany
@@frankbocian1386, still should clean and brighten first to remove organics like algae, mold, and mildew.
@@wizardofwood THANKS!
👍
Oscillating...not orbital.
“Across the grain,” not “against the grain.”
This guy is giving very poor information.
Do not take into account any of this information. I do this for a living.
I use a drum sander, mine is powerful enough to take out the cupping of the board.
We punch the nails with an air powered nail puncher.
Screws get taken out, widen the hole, then put them back.
My work is flawless. This guy has an agenda.
Not to mention, wire brush deck Sanders exist to. Just search blitz deck sander. I think it's rubbish, but you'll at least see how full of it this guy is.
I have no idea what I am talking about!
@@wizardofwood clearly
@@stevebest216 Is a drum sander faster in your experience
So much faster.
100% words, no demonstration. Poor content.
I don’t like how this guy presents himself sorta has that aggressive stance, very in your personal space vibe. I would not get along with this guy.
This guy lol if you can sand a wood floor right, decks are child’s play. A drum machine works perfectly and am assuming he doesn’t know how to use one. If you have a month, this will work fine
Great video! I have a large Yellow Pine deck screwed down form the top. Can you sand over the screws? Can I re-screw the deck after I assume the screw heads are sanded off?
You can sand over the screws once or twice
@@stevebest216 Okay, great! Thanks for the info!