How to Parge on ICF - Preparation Tips

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มิ.ย. 2024
  • When parging to an ICF wall, these are the steps we take to prepare the wall before mud gets spread. We take in account the wall as a whole assembly and make sure that we have water protection from top to bottom. Some of these considerations can be used for stucco and/or stone applications to ICF. The take away...creating a drainage plain to allow water to exit after parging, stucco or stone gets saturated from heavy rainfall. This info seems trivial but you wouldn't believe how many people skip this thought process, even many "so called" professionals.
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ความคิดเห็น • 22

  • @patreagen3973
    @patreagen3973 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great explanation! Put my husband and I on the right track to do our foundation wall. Thanks for a straight forward explanation.

    • @uptokode
      @uptokode  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I’m glad it was helpful. This method is the ultimate way in order to maintain drainage behind the parging.

  • @HBSuccess
    @HBSuccess 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Nothing wrong with your system- good drainage plane and good isolation for the parge, but you could do it with one fewer layer by using DuPont StuccoWrap as a continuation of the WRB on the house, and then lathe directly over that. StuccoWrap is essentially thick Tyvek made with ridges that create a drainage plane - and it’s fine touching mortar - that it’s what it’s made for. We also use a latex modified stucco. I've never seen the screws you're using but if they're from the "drywall industry" are they exterior grade? We've gone to all aluminum or stainless steel for any fastener touching the stucco, especially below grade.

    • @uptokode
      @uptokode  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Great info! I will remember this. And yeah the wafers are zinc coated but stainless is far better

  • @chrisg329
    @chrisg329 ปีที่แล้ว

    when installing diamond rough side up, gotta have the grain running down so its easier parge, an over lap of 1-3 inches on each installation

  • @markstipulkoski1389
    @markstipulkoski1389 2 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Videos from BuildBlock and Nudura say to use a synthetic stucco (EIFS) with embedded fiberglass mesh in the first coat. They say that the EIFS will adhere to both the peel and stick waterproofing and the ICF block. There was no mention of the stucco getting saturated and causing a problem. Maybe water saturation is minimal with EIFS? It seems like your method may be a more cost effective solution and does not depend on good adhesion to the foam or waterproofing. I think you live in Canada where subterranean termites aren't a problem but they are here in the southern US. It seems to me that the air gap that is created around the tar paper could provide a sneak path for subterranean termites to crawl up the peel-n-stick waterproofing and then back behind the tar paper to the ICF foam. Pest control technicians depend on termites having to create mud tubes on the outside of the concrete foundation to reach wood. The technicians look for the tubes to determine if you have an infestation. Some companies will not provide termites protection on ICF homes because if the termites can reach the foam underground, they don't have to build the visible tubes and so not easily detected. I am assuming your parging and its tar paper backing will extend to a few inches below grade and this will provide the hidden route. The other method would force the termites to build visible tunnels up the exterior of the parging. But it is probably more costly and I might be concerned with the adhesion long term. But since you don't have subterranean termites it's not an issue.✌️

    • @uptokode
      @uptokode  2 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      You are correct about me being in Canada and not having to deal with termites.
      I’m a stickler for drainage plane behind stucco where there’s peal n stick protecting a basement. Not that there will be much saturation with water but I’m picky.
      I usually have my parging go 12 inches below grade but I assume termites don’t have a limit to how far down they can go?
      No matter which stucco path you take the termites sound priority. If I knew more about it I could come up with suggestions.
      Even just cut a slit into the foam all the way back to the concrete and then stuff metal flashing in there to stop them from channeling upwards. I don’t know

    • @markstipulkoski1389
      @markstipulkoski1389 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@uptokode Actually, the subterranean termites (Formosa) don't "resort" to burrowing underground, that is their normal modus operandi. A typical defense against them is to put insecticide into the soil all around your house, delivered by hollow spikes every few feet. Usually this service comes with a warranty and so in order to not have to pay out a big claim, they inspect the perimeter of your house periodically looking for the vertical mud tubes on the concrete. Yes, installing a metal flashing in a groove all along the perimeter at grade is a mitigation technique also. One of the ICF manufacturers sells a flashing and has a video on how to install it when you are stacking the blocks. Unfortunately it calls for cutting the nubs off the block and is very labor intensive. Doing it after the pour as you say seems like it would be easier. Use a chainsaw to create your channel for the flashing and then sprayfoam it. Or, just go with what the manufacturers recommend and use the EIRS parging applied directly to the foam and hope that it stands the test of time as advertised. ✌️

  • @screwydrewy7027
    @screwydrewy7027 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Can you nail siding right into ties. I’m fairly sure Nudura warranty doesn’t cover that type of installation just curious what your thoughts are

    • @Krazie-Ivan
      @Krazie-Ivan 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      my understanding is you'll need a rainscreen by attaching 1x2 strapping vertically to the ICF ties, which will allow an air gap for drying out any moisture that gets past the siding. a moisture barrier is needed before the strapping, unless you're in an extremely dry climate, but even then i'd still add it as cheap prevention. don't forget critter barriers for the top & bottom of the air gap.

  • @frostman9661
    @frostman9661 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Not sure if you aware, but every single one of your videos is roughly half the volume as any other TH-cam videos. I have to double to volume to hear you. Otherwise I enjoy your content!

    • @uptokode
      @uptokode  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Dang. Been working on the sound but it’s still off. Thanks for letting me know

  • @macleanclassics
    @macleanclassics 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Nudura shows the parging direct to the foam ?

    • @uptokode
      @uptokode  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I like having paper over top of my basement waterproofing. I sleep better at night knowing I did it the best way possible.

    • @keithdygert1120
      @keithdygert1120 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +2

      Hi, did your waterproofing membrane end below another course of ICF? If so, why? And is there a termite or other flashing on top of your last course of ICF before framing? Thank you.

    • @andreycham4797
      @andreycham4797 6 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      ​@@uptokodethose holes, in your membrane, worry me so much I can not sleep at night

    • @markstipulkoski1389
      @markstipulkoski1389 2 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      ​@@keithdygert1120Didn't see your comment until after I posted my long winded comment concerning termites. Good observation. Canadians usually don't have to think about subterranean termite mitigation.

    • @uptokode
      @uptokode  2 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Haha. I get that but the peal n stick is self adhering around fasteners… plus my paper over top will allow water to trickle through and not be trapped then forcing itself inside.

  • @jeremygrant8952
    @jeremygrant8952 8 หลายเดือนก่อน +2

    You didnt tell me later..

    • @uptokode
      @uptokode  4 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Dang it! Sorry about that.