Thank you for sharing your experience. Living in southwest New Mexico, I found myself with holes in my perimeter rock walls. I received an average work estimate to refill the rock wall holes for the sum of $1000.00 Being retired, I decided to try my hand and fill them myself with mortar "N" with a strengthening additive; armed with a bag, a trowel, gloves, a wet sponge, a chisel and stone hammer, my cost was under $70.00. I filled my rock wall holes with motar and rock found on my property. Thanks again!
Mike, I have been watching since 2014. You have helped me defeat inhibition to start and gave me the confidence to complete several outdoor projects around my house here in Canada. Very similar climate here vs. PA.. Each of the projects are still standing, working and generally looking really good. Thank-you for entertaining, and enlightening us !!
I'm a drywall finisher by trade , but I have an old house from the 1880's and I do a lot of stone repair work around the old place , so your videos are quite helpful and interesting. Thank you from one craftsman to another
I lived next to an interior and exterior Plasterer when I was kid. I remember them counting shovelfuls of sand loading trucks, then loading up bags of lime and cement. Different colors of sand for different stucco. And heard them discussing different mixes for different jobs. Thanks Mike, always interesting!
Dear Mike, Thank you again for the great lessons on masonry. Hope to start my basement walkout project sometime before the end of summer and all your teaching is very helpful. Already finished the glass block windows in the basement and they came out beautiful--all with vents. God bless you and your family.
Thank you Mike for explaining the difference between type “S” and type “N”. This is something that I have wondered about for years now and nobody had been able to give me a real answer that would make sense until I viewed your video! Thank you again and I enjoy your TH-cam posts so much. I learn a lot from you. Keep up the good work!
Mike, sir. My respect to you sir. You're full of knowledge and have showed me a lot. Thank you for taking the time to teach and demonstrate. God bless 🙌
Mike is the best!! Super knowledgeable. I’m a hard scape guy. For last 20 years but Michael has honestly taught me so many tricks of the trade I am so thankful for him!! God bless you Mike you’re the best bro
Thanks Mike I like watching you… your a maestro in this work. You have a great style of presentation. Because of you I’ve gained the confidence to do small jobs. “builders” have been to my home but I was foolish lacking any experience and got ripped off badly, should have seen it coming when they took their spurs off the boots. You live and learn. Thanks you are a good man. From the UK.
Many years ago I managed some property in the French Quarter of New Oleans. Construction there is very controlled. I needed to tuck point a brick building and my permit said to use 12 parts sand to mortor. I didn't underrstand at the time but complied. Later I discovered this mix is used because the bouldings are old and the foundations are constantly experiencing differential settlement. The weak mix prevents spalling or otherwise cracking the brick as the building shifts about. As you say Mike, what works here doesn't work over there. Good video!!
These reviews are always helpful and it’s a huge strength of your channel that you review the materials many times. Thank you Mike and hope you have a terrific weekend
Mike, thank you, I completed my first stone job. using type S with yellow sand. I patched the stones and joints around a stone foundation suburbs of Philadelphia. Now I am repairing brick work using mortar.
So I have been searching for an answer to a couple of questions and it sounds like you may be able to help me. I have to repair the joints of a stone wall here in Ct. The stones appear to be mostly grabite but there are a lot of light tan comors and yellow in the wall. The original material used to fill the joints appears to be a very sandy mixture, it is yellowish in color and you can see the grains of sand. I keed to match this as closely as possible but I'm not sure how to do it properly. I have used straight type s before but it dries to a color that is still very dark grey, almost blueish. What can I do to get the color closer to that off white, tanish/yellowish beach sand like color? Can sand be mixed with pre mix type s or type n mortar?
I use premix for convenience. I am by no means a pro just an experienced DIYer. I use type S for most work unless it involves stone. Not sure if it was right but after 10 years my garage and house foundation are still standing. I was always told type S for below grade and N is only for above grade and never thought twice about it. Thanks for giving me a better understanding of the mixes.
I make my pancakes from scratch and mix my Mason mix myself. Here in Norway, the mixture has only 5 percent Portland, so I make the best mixture myself. The good thing about TH-cam is that it takes just a few clicks to find a real resource like this channel. I see deep knowledge and vast experience. Thank you, sir.
Decades of knowledge, wisdom, and experience. Thank you Mike. I'm doing some Chicago brick restoration on my home here in Michigan. This was very helpful.
You are exactly what people need as a teacher these days. Everyone thinks things have to be too precise or complicated, in a way we have become too OCD and real life efficiency is effected for no real gain. Thanks for bringing some old school efficiency back into this inefficient world!! I am fortunate enough to have known old schoolers so I am comfortable with and understand the truth in “it’s not a big deal”. Which is one of the greatest lessons you give these youngsters and it’s true!
You look like Joe Namath.I’m 70 still doing construction keep it up pal. I learned from the greatest generation. My teachers growing up I watched and listen. I can remember my Dad buying a 80lb Portland for $.25 early 1960. Your passing on great knowledge. Thanks.
My dad is a retired Mason [Boston concrete floor finishing LEGEND], 😅he had me hand mix concrete for home projects. I learned the lime, Portland cement, sand mix ratio
Thanks Mike. I am a first time homeowner and am going to tackle tuckpointing the space between my lintel and brick wall this weekend. This video helped alot.
sooo much great info you publish on the channel .. and think it's great you republish some of the older content and refresh it again with new vids. You've done soooo much work already and these reviews refreshed are a HUGE delight. Thanks again Mike. Hope you get some fun travels in again this year. Thank you for this channel.
Thanks for the video I am planning on doing a little brickwork tomorrow the old mortar is crumbling and the bricks just lift off the chimney. This gives me some insight as to what I am dealing with. I am in North Texas (we do freeze just not often), but I like how you presented this great job.
@@MikeHaduck My main concern is how far down I need to take the chimney to do a proper repair. The mortar crumbles in my hand. I dressed the bricks up with a cold chisel and a hammer yesterday and took it down until the mortar was hard and seemed to be good quality(that is what made sense to me at least). Someone at some point did a little repair but they really just slapped 1/8" of new mortar on the side and called it a day.
I like your videos , thanks for posting them !!! we do masonry restoration work here in Massachusetts and i have used those 2 types of bags of type s mortar too, the only differences i noticed about them is the color and the GREEN bag has a " thinner " sand and i prefer to use it for pointing skinny joints because the other mortar has more coarse sand and it makes it almost impossible to point some skinny joints of bricks like they have here in boston ,although not too many places sell the green bag anymore! thanks for posting your videos ,you're the best !
Lime mortar was used to allow masonry buildings to breathe. The lime mortar works like a wick, through capillary action, draws moisture through the walls. Portland cement found in Type N/S/O mortars become a barrier to moisture movement. Lime mortar makes a difference in certain buildings. We have 120 yr houses double brick, Lime mortar, 0 insulation in the walls, Southern Ontario
There's a big difference between hydrated lime and natural hydraulic lime. Look into this it will clear up confusion between what's sold here in America and what's being used in Europe. Only place I know to get NHL here is from limeworks in lancastor PA. Hydrated lime is more so just a workability agent in Portland based mortar. Hot lime that has been slaked is a different chemical makeup. Hydrated lime has is lime that had enough water added to then dry it into a powder. Read up on this.
Love this, oh you are a blessing, I have a 120 yr old house, been cleaning the foundation to repaint and needs some morter work, bricks and concrete blocks. And I need to do some in basement, and I have a rock garden tried in bricks. I can now or soon morter them. No more weed pulling.
That's what I did as well in the Northeast. From what I researched type S contains additives to help it adhere and gives it more flexibility. House built in 1870.
As unusual, great video Mike. Currently doing a major restoration on a big carriage house built in 1899. The brick made then were of course pretty darn soft compared to today's brick so I've been adding sand to the Type S SpecMix. Limestone restoration of course a weaker mix is desired so I'll use Type N indoors and Type S outdoors. What I personnel gleaned from your video is that Type N is stronger than I thought. What I thought was Type N until now is actually Type O and I've personnel never seen Type O mix for sale. But as you like to say--we should have the basic masonry skill to mix our own.
I am a (45-year-old) landscaper from Calgary Canada. Thank you for the video! I am going to do a small tree well with river rocks and your advice! (I am going to us emy hands, no fancy tools from home depot!) I am very thank full to you for showing the stone part. I have no more words, thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. And I will do the same if I am confident or come to to the zen like you!
I have been binge watching your videos for the past several hours. Thanks for teaching me so much. I feel ready to practice so I can build pillars in my crawl space and fix the outside of my fireplace. I especially like how you rub some mud on a repair job to match the repair to the original. Never thought to do that.
those goofs working at Home Depot told me to put flagstone walkway to front step and bluestone over concrete steps with mortar mix and it began crumbling after a few years. so, i redid it all with the sand Portland mix you use now it is still good as new
Look into the difference between Hydrated lime and Natural Hydraulic lime. NHL is what's used in Europe. You can get it from Limeworks in Lancastor PA.
Probably the most enjoyable instructional video I’ve ever seen! Not like these yayhoos who do it twice and crank out a video.its nice to hear a true craftsman talk
Let me tell you you’ve made this incredibly easier for me. I’ve always been interested in concrete, Masonary veneer stone work, but I thought the whole process of concrete was much more complicated. I’m gonna go out now and fix a wall that fell down 10 years ago in front of my house and has made me crazy because I refuse to pay a small fortune to fix this when it’s just piling up the stones straight being careful and putting concrete it was a freestanding wall that eventually fell because of tree root. Thank you so very very much
Thanks for the video. Now I know the difference. I'm going to try to remember by thinking Type S is Stronger, and Type N is 50/50, in the middle, like the letter N is in the middle of the alphabet. Thanks again, Mike.
Hi Mike. Im living out here in Wyoming, Bighorn Basin. We do not get much rain or snow. Cold temps in winter. What ive learned is that Type S mortar is the way to go for sidewalk repairs. Also, painting portland on is a great way to freshen up foundation walls. Thanks for your tips
Hi Richard, I never use type s for sidewalk repairs, I only use sand and Portland or a fast drying product, my opinion, , I have videos on " concrete repair" Mike haduck, thanks Mike
Mike, Love watching your presentations. You are a great teacher. I have a block and brick job coming up and I feel ready to go. Thanks for all the work you do. MHSOHK university.
Hey Mike, really cool to see a vid from ya. I tell ya what Mike, I am of Irish decent and grew up on construction sites in the UK. My Dad (the Boss) would tell them to throw me off the first floor when I was 4/5 years old. He would ALWAYS catch me.....THAT is a cool Dad. When it comes to mixes....3 shovels soft sand....one shovel Portland. God bless n peace to ya.
Thank you Mike, I didn't know shit about joint mortar until I watched your video. All I wanted is to build a retaining wall here in the south, and I feel as I could teach someone about block mortar. Thanks Again. keep speaking to us stupid people.
Thanks for the info. It gave me a lot a clarity which is hard to find when you first start to look. Explaining what the letters represent was also very helpful! Cheers.
Mike thanks for the videos we just made our first home purchase a 1892 farmhouse with a stone foundation, your other videos have helped get ready to repair/maintenance it we are in the top of Maryland and appreciate the videos !
Excellent post. I learned tuckpointing of fieldstone from Tom Silva the carpenter of This Old House. He adds a concrete bonding adhesive with this Type S mix. Quite a few comments harp on the old school way as being best but I haven't gotten any cracks. Still good as new. Anytime I got cracks was if I didn't wet the stones first and the mix was a bit dry. I now mist the work a few times over a 24 hour period and wet down the stones before I start tuckpointing. Looks pissa when the joints are brushed in.
Hey Brother... Well done.... I think your message was clear, kind of like the the horse stomp once for "1" twice for "2." Use for up and down ... not for patio... I think I got it😳🤔.... You are deffinetly helping many people. When All is said and done... You are TOP NOTCH BROTHER.... GOD BLESS... Ernie
I just used that same S mortar mix for a 3 story 2-flue chimney in my new house. Stacked about 50 pairs of the chimney blocks then brick up through the roof. Im up in maine. Outside on the roof i added a bit of portland to it. My thinking was stiffening it a little for freeze/thaw. I added basically 7 parts s mortar mix (which is already portland/lime/sand) and half a part portland; 14:1. And I added a large slate cap to keep water off. Unfortunately thats not to code in some areas but its fine where I am and it does a great job protecting the masonry.
Hi, I don't know what you mean castellation, I have lots of videos on concrete repair or painting with portland or foundation repair, those techniques might help, thanks, Mike
Love your videos Mike. Thank you for making them! Hope you have more travel planned to review more places around the world and their contrast with your native PA.
I've learned so much from your experience! Im in Westmoreland pa and I've been wondering how to address my deteriorating stone foundation and I believe I've got all suggested materials and will be fixing myself, thanks for all you've shared.🏁🏁🏁
Just found you here on u tube…..I am learning lots of valuable stuff…..I have lots of lil repairs I need to do on walls steps etc…thank you for sharing your knowledge !
Ha ha, I love it, great video, and the final few minutes says, "Use type N in the South and Type S in the North! Perfect(At least in the Northern Hemisphere)!
For a small project placing limestone slabs on a front stoop. My wife and I bought torn bag "specials" from Lowes. We got some N mortar and some s mortar. Also got a torn bag of sand topping mix. We mixed the S and N bags as needed and threw in some sand topping mix for more volume. Combining the S and N mortar with some sand topping mix. I figure we ended up with some VQ mortar batch. VQ standing for very questionable mortar mix. Bottom line is I sure wish I watched your program before I bought the variety of mortar that we did. Sor far the wind hasn't blown the limestone slabs away. Great learning experience.
Hi Bernard, I have a playlist out "stone patio installation " Mike haduck I show what I use and all my techniques there, weather means a lot, I mostly use Portland and sand for patios, I hope it helps, thanks Mike
Check an agriculture supply place for lime. I can get agricultural lime at the local co-op. In school we used one part of lime to three parts of sand. And here in Meridian, Mississippi, a lot of the old buildings used lime cement.
I do enjoy your videos. They're very informative, You know your craft well. You make things seem easy to do. "No big deal" as you used to say. 😄 Thank you for sharing. (Loved the Scripture you shared.)
Happened upon your video. Dig your style. I love the line...'if you don't understand that video, I can't help you.' I subscribed and am about to deep dive.
I've been a bricklayer my whole life and I'm 71 and happily retired. My experience with Quikrete mix is that the sand is too sharp and the mix is too weak. We would always add a shovel of regular mortar per bag to make it more workable. Brewman
Thanks for this great video Mike. Really helps connect the dots in the trade. It's interesting to hear you mention adobe and other historical practices. Are you familiar with modern "natural building practices" like strawbale homes and earth plaster? It would be interesting to hear your thoughts on different techniques using only natural materials.
Great explanation of each of the mixes. Here in Alabama about 2 weeks ago, I couldn't find type S at the brick company and home depot only had 3 bags (not pre-mix). I snatched em! Looks like masonry supplies aren't exempt from shortages.
very good title and thumbnail mike, I make concrete videos too,but no where near as big as u on youtube. maybe someday, untill then keep up the good work 👍
just subscribed i think there are things you can do to get you in the algorithms for you tube on the searches. like for example your wording like how to pour a side walk. etc. you have some good videos there cant see why the subs are not there.
@@dangates3022 thank u dan, I appreciate it. I work really hard on them. it may not be like mikes video, he has been doing this for years I actually started during last year spring time, I like the videos like Mike did, maybe I will do some more w out music and see how they go
@@dangates3022 i have a video that ranks but for something that not a ton of people search for,but I make about 1.50 to $2 a day off youtube. nothing to write home about lol
@@GRUBB-MUDD NP i watch a lot of you tube. i look at a lot of people i follow on you tube, their subs likes and views. to see where they are at and if they are growing. and you do have to work hard to get the subs. but you tube has to put you in the search to get you out there. in my opinion. how that happens is anyone's guess. yeah mike has been around a long time i give him that, but i think he should have way more subs and views than he has. there are people out there with a million plus. vise grip gayrodge, scotty kilmer. viva i have been watching he's not in the trades a political commenter but he worked hard to increase his subs from 75k to 500k. he did go and report on the truckers in Ottawa and called out his channel to them the people there. and he did shout out other channels too who he met. i guess having your self on fb, rumble and other social media will help too. because they will put you in their feeds. most i follow in the trades have at least FB accounts a long with youtube. i also see people have channel's they support in their bio. and that's how i find some content also. like - watch wess work, this old tony and a friend of mine Norcal715, he does an electronics channel has been on the tubes for 10 plus years but has no views or subs, does atleast one show weekly, but that content i'snt that interesting to most people. i think if you keep at it you will succeed. anything in the trades should peak peoples interest's. i'm a journeyman - millwright/industrial mechanic. and am always looking to go next level on my skills. you can't retain it all. but i know when I'm doing a masonry jobs i look at mikes videos for a reference and to jog my memory. keep at it you will get there
@@dangates3022 thanks Dan, yeah I mainly do it for fun, I would like to do some colabs w big creators and small creators just because I think that would be alot of fun, I post usually 1 video per week, I used to do more but I have slowed down I'm not gona lie. I have some loyal viewers , but I changed the style of content I was making which kinda hurt my channel, but mostly I do it 4 fun right now
aside from being an ever-flowing font of genuine knowledge, you make me laugh out loud: " I don't know what they were smokin' that day"😆🤣 thank you for both. subbed and liked!
I hadn't seen this video yet for some reason, but great explanation! I've been worried about my mortar choice on my old foundation and have resolved myself to use type-s in places that should experience less movement and more water(below grade foundation) and type-n in above grade exterior sections. While I understand that mixing a custom batch for the area and type of stones in the foundation may add a certain amount of longevity, I'm not convinced common mortals will really see a difference.
Hi check out my videos on "stone foundation repair" I show what I used and all my techniques, what you said I think you are OK, don't overthink it, it's just a go over and could always be gone over again, thanks Mike
I learn alot from your videos Mike. Kee it up. Id like to see more about stone building , such as our famous Pennsylvania stone barns and houses. Keep it up.
Yeah, I like that Type S Quikrete. They make a good ready-mix. .. I think it is a true lime-portland mix. Whereas Brik-Lok Types N and S don't have lime, instead it has air to give it workability. When air replaces the lime, that's called 'masonry cement', but it doesn't 'grab' the brick as good as a true Portland-Lime cement.. That's why I like that Quikrete brand👍
@@MikeHaduckThanks for mentioning briklock doesn't use lime. I'll stay away from that brand since my current project is fixing up a stone retaining wall on an island with the bottom 1' underwater and I think the flexibility of lime will give longer life. I notice both sakrete type n and type s data sheets indicate lime is used and stores carry it here in Canada. Still debating type n versus type s.
@@tom3639 Brik loc doesn't use lime but is still a very good masonry cement. It's been around a long time. But in your case, you want to use a straight Portland cement and sand for stone, especially if it's being exposed to water. If it's salt water, there's a very specific type of Portland cement you want to use, it's not the regular kind. I don't remember off the top of my head, so look into it.
Thank you for explaining this. Ive spent two days looking for a stucco mix for my chimney because nobody carries them in metro Detroit. So Ive been looking for a suitable replacememt to seal my chimney.
The Roman’s were using a volcanic ash cement mix that was used to build the Colluseum and used for foundations in harbour construction as it cured and set underwater , still in good condition today , 6:44
Hey Mike, another good video. Always seems to me the Type N tends to "powder" more the next day. Might be giving it too much water, but the N just seems significantly weaker to me.
Hi Mike, Writing from Montréal Québec. I'm watching your videos for maybe 3 weeks, from Egypt to Florida to Pensylvania, i love your videos, it's instructive and also a nice touch of history all over the world ! I understand the concept of "mortar", "ciment" and "concrete". In my brain, mortar is what is between brick and stone. I understand also that it can play the role of stuco but: Why calling a mortar( N or S whatever) a ciment or a stuco? I have to replace my bricks under the balcony of the second floor, the old original waterholic bricks mostly all explode since 1925. So i bought a bag of mortar type N. Those hidden bricks were the only one not changed in the front of the 3 floors house but were hidden by fascia and soffit....totally stupid but this what they did maybe in the 80's. I got lucky, I found the exact red claybrick " riverdale bark" brand new for .70 cents in us dollars. Anyway, now i'm making experience( practicing like you are repeating in your videos) with 3 samples of the same mortar type N premix: More sandy, more neutral and more liquid. I want to know which one stick to the brick better because yesterday was a fiasco in front of my house in the ladder, the mortar did not stick the bricks together, maybe i did not wait long enough idk. So i'm practicing in my backyard without neighbors or walkers watching, without potential city inspectors( never know with them). I have no particular questions, which you the best, take good care Mike ! ps: english is my not my first language, my english is like 6/10
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This man is a example of a EXCELLENT construction worker teacher. When i was young, i had Cruel evil fireman
Thanks Jamie, Mike
Best masonry channel I used to do repairs on my brick walls.
Thanks BK, Mike
Thank you for sharing your experience. Living in southwest New Mexico, I found myself with holes in my perimeter rock walls. I received an average work estimate to refill the rock wall holes for the sum of $1000.00 Being retired, I decided to try my hand and fill them myself with mortar "N" with a strengthening additive; armed with a bag, a trowel, gloves, a wet sponge, a chisel and stone hammer, my cost was under $70.00. I filled my rock wall holes with motar and rock found on my property. Thanks again!
Thanks JM, I appreciate it, Mike
Mike, I have been watching since 2014. You have helped me defeat inhibition to start and gave me the confidence to complete several outdoor projects around my house here in Canada. Very similar climate here vs. PA.. Each of the projects are still standing, working and generally looking really good. Thank-you for entertaining, and enlightening us !!
Thanks Jay, I appreciate hearing that, Mike
I'm a drywall finisher by trade , but I have an old house from the 1880's and I do a lot of stone repair work around the old place , so your videos are quite helpful and interesting. Thank you from one craftsman to another
Thanks Brian, I appreciate it, Mike
Use hot mixed mortars Mike has no portfolio. He can’t even show his face in the hometown…. I can only look around and see permanent work.
“If you don’t get it after that I can’t help you “ love it! Love all your videos. I’ve learned so much. Thanks for sharing
Thanks again Erica, Mike
I lived next to an interior and exterior Plasterer when I was kid. I remember them counting shovelfuls of sand loading trucks, then loading up bags of lime and cement. Different colors of sand for different stucco. And heard them discussing different mixes for different jobs. Thanks Mike, always interesting!
Thanks Bill, Mike
Dear Mike, Thank you again for the great lessons on masonry. Hope to start my basement walkout project sometime before the end of summer and all your teaching is very helpful. Already finished the glass block windows in the basement and they came out beautiful--all with vents. God bless you and your family.
Thanks Bonnie, God bless also, Mike
Thank you Mike for explaining the difference between type “S” and type “N”. This is something that I have wondered about for years now and nobody had been able to give me a real answer that would make sense until I viewed your video! Thank you again and I enjoy your TH-cam posts so much. I learn a lot from you. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Don, I appreciate it, Mike
Thanks Don, Mike
You must have talked to NCMA!😂
Mike, sir. My respect to you sir. You're full of knowledge and have showed me a lot. Thank you for taking the time to teach and demonstrate. God bless 🙌
Thanks, God bless, happy new year, Mike
Mike is the best!! Super knowledgeable. I’m a hard scape guy. For last 20 years but Michael has honestly taught me so many tricks of the trade I am so thankful for him!! God bless you Mike you’re the best bro
Thanks John, I appreciate hearing that, God bless, Mike
Thanks Mike I like watching you… your a maestro in this work. You have a great style of presentation. Because of you I’ve gained the confidence to do small jobs. “builders” have been to my home but I was foolish lacking any experience and got ripped off badly, should have seen it coming when they took their spurs off the boots. You live and learn. Thanks you are a good man. From the UK.
Thanks Rubedo, Mike
Many years ago I managed some property in the French Quarter of New Oleans. Construction there is very controlled. I needed to tuck point a brick building and my permit said to use 12 parts sand to mortor. I didn't underrstand at the time but complied. Later I discovered this mix is used because the bouldings are old and the foundations are constantly experiencing differential settlement. The weak mix prevents spalling or otherwise cracking the brick as the building shifts about.
As you say Mike, what works here doesn't work over there. Good video!!
Thanks Greg, I agree, and down there the frost don't do the damage like in the north, thanks Mike
I love this channel, this is the best series of tutorials on TH-cam for masonry. Thanks for the great work. Cheers.
Thanks CAMERON, Mike
These reviews are always helpful and it’s a huge strength of your channel that you review the materials many times. Thank you Mike and hope you have a terrific weekend
Thanks Thor, Mike
Mike, thank you, I completed my first stone job. using type S with yellow sand. I patched the stones and joints around a stone foundation suburbs of Philadelphia. Now I am repairing brick work using mortar.
Thanks al, I am sure you will do fine, thanks Mike
So I have been searching for an answer to a couple of questions and it sounds like you may be able to help me. I have to repair the joints of a stone wall here in Ct. The stones appear to be mostly grabite but there are a lot of light tan comors and yellow in the wall. The original material used to fill the joints appears to be a very sandy mixture, it is yellowish in color and you can see the grains of sand. I keed to match this as closely as possible but I'm not sure how to do it properly. I have used straight type s before but it dries to a color that is still very dark grey, almost blueish. What can I do to get the color closer to that off white, tanish/yellowish beach sand like color? Can sand be mixed with pre mix type s or type n mortar?
I use premix for convenience. I am by no means a pro just an experienced DIYer. I use type S for most work unless it involves stone. Not sure if it was right but after 10 years my garage and house foundation are still standing. I was always told type S for below grade and N is only for above grade and never thought twice about it. Thanks for giving me a better understanding of the mixes.
Thanks biff,, Mike
I make my pancakes from scratch and mix my Mason mix myself. Here in Norway, the mixture has only 5 percent Portland, so I make the best mixture myself.
The good thing about TH-cam is that it takes just a few clicks to find a real resource like this channel. I see deep knowledge and vast experience. Thank you, sir.
Thanks mogbaba,, Mike
Decades of knowledge, wisdom, and experience. Thank you Mike. I'm doing some Chicago brick restoration on my home here in Michigan. This was very helpful.
Thanks Eric, Mike
You are exactly what people need as a teacher these days. Everyone thinks things have to be too precise or complicated, in a way we have become too OCD and real life efficiency is effected for no real gain. Thanks for bringing some old school efficiency back into this inefficient world!! I am fortunate enough to have known old schoolers so I am comfortable with and understand the truth in “it’s not a big deal”. Which is one of the greatest lessons you give these youngsters and it’s true!
Thanks Nomad, I appreciate hearing that, Mike
You look like Joe Namath.I’m 70 still doing construction keep it up pal. I learned from the greatest generation. My teachers growing up I watched and listen. I can remember my Dad buying a 80lb Portland for $.25 early 1960. Your passing on great knowledge. Thanks.
Thanks ,I appreciate hearing that, Mike
My dad is a retired Mason [Boston concrete floor finishing LEGEND], 😅he had me hand mix concrete for home projects. I learned the lime, Portland cement, sand mix ratio
thanks for posting, had a couple people ask me about different types of concrete mixes
Thanks Savio, Mike
Thanks Mike. I am a first time homeowner and am going to tackle tuckpointing the space between my lintel and brick wall this weekend. This video helped alot.
Thanks Fred, Mike
sooo much great info you publish on the channel .. and think it's great you republish some of the older content and refresh it again with new vids. You've done soooo much work already and these reviews refreshed are a HUGE delight. Thanks again Mike. Hope you get some fun travels in again this year. Thank you for this channel.
Thanks Thor, Mike
Thanks for the video I am planning on doing a little brickwork tomorrow the old mortar is crumbling and the bricks just lift off the chimney. This gives me some insight as to what I am dealing with. I am in North Texas (we do freeze just not often), but I like how you presented this great job.
Thanks Orman, I have a playlist on chimney repair, and others on repoiting brickwork, that might help. Thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck My main concern is how far down I need to take the chimney to do a proper repair. The mortar crumbles in my hand. I dressed the bricks up with a cold chisel and a hammer yesterday and took it down until the mortar was hard and seemed to be good quality(that is what made sense to me at least). Someone at some point did a little repair but they really just slapped 1/8" of new mortar on the side and called it a day.
I like your videos , thanks for posting them !!! we do masonry restoration work here in Massachusetts and i have used those 2 types of bags of type s mortar too, the only differences i noticed about them is the color and the GREEN bag has a " thinner " sand and i prefer to use it for pointing skinny joints because the other mortar has more coarse sand and it makes it almost impossible to point some skinny joints of bricks like they have here in boston ,although not too many places sell the green bag anymore! thanks for posting your videos ,you're the best !
Thanks Max, I appreciate hearing that, Mike
Hi Max, I’m in Boston working on a fieldstone repointing. Do you use type S for this? What are your thoughts?
Lime mortar was used to allow masonry buildings to breathe. The lime mortar works like a wick, through capillary action, draws moisture through the walls. Portland cement found in Type N/S/O mortars become a barrier to moisture movement. Lime mortar makes a difference in certain buildings. We have 120 yr houses double brick, Lime mortar, 0 insulation in the walls, Southern Ontario
Hi Dale, I have a video out called " lime ,mortar or portland " what should I use? Mike haduck, thanks
There's a big difference between hydrated lime and natural hydraulic lime. Look into this it will clear up confusion between what's sold here in America and what's being used in Europe. Only place I know to get NHL here is from limeworks in lancastor PA. Hydrated lime is more so just a workability agent in Portland based mortar. Hot lime that has been slaked is a different chemical makeup. Hydrated lime has is lime that had enough water added to then dry it into a powder. Read up on this.
Thanks Mike
Sounds like a cold house
I live in sault ste marie and my aunt lives in a stone house from 1881 and it beautiful but has a musty smell which is common with real stone houses
Love this, oh you are a blessing, I have a 120 yr old house, been cleaning the foundation to repaint and needs some morter work, bricks and concrete blocks. And I need to do some in basement, and I have a rock garden tried in bricks. I can now or soon morter them. No more weed pulling.
Hi Marie, I have a whole playlist on foundation repair, thanks Mike
“If you don’t get it after that, I can’t help you “
Epic!!!
Thanks michael, Mike
We use type S for the stone foundation and then type N for tuckpointing the brick (softer historic brick) in Cincy. Great video!
Thanks Matt, Mike
That's what I did as well in the Northeast. From what I researched type S contains additives to help it adhere and gives it more flexibility. House built in 1870.
@@mikemasters4382 How did your repair go?
@katrina, repairs went very well, no leaks as of now and it looks a lot better
As unusual, great video Mike.
Currently doing a major restoration on a big carriage house built in 1899. The brick made then were of course pretty darn soft compared to today's brick so I've been adding sand to the Type S SpecMix.
Limestone restoration of course a weaker mix is desired so I'll use Type N indoors and Type S outdoors.
What I personnel gleaned from your video is that Type N is stronger than I thought. What I thought was Type N until now is actually Type O and I've personnel never seen Type O mix for sale. But as you like to say--we should have the basic masonry skill to mix our own.
Thanks Patrick, Mike
As usual, great video. Sorry Mike.
I need to learn how to spell.
I am a (45-year-old) landscaper from Calgary Canada. Thank you for the video!
I am going to do a small tree well with river rocks and your advice! (I am going to us emy hands, no fancy tools from home depot!)
I am very thank full to you for showing the stone part. I have no more words, thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
And I will do the same if I am confident or come to to the zen like you!
Hi Siva, I have a lot of videos on stone work, check out my birdbath videos and stone steps etc, thanks Mike
Mike , You are Awesome ! You have helped me a lot with masonary jobs around the house. Thank You
Thanks Paul,, Mike
I have been binge watching your videos for the past several hours. Thanks for teaching me so much. I feel ready to practice so I can build pillars in my crawl space and fix the outside of my fireplace. I especially like how you rub some mud on a repair job to match the repair to the original. Never thought to do that.
Thanks, Mike
those goofs working at Home Depot told me to put flagstone walkway to front step and bluestone over concrete steps with mortar mix and it began crumbling after a few years. so, i redid it all with the sand Portland mix you use now it is still good as new
Thanks Greg, Mike
Look into the difference between Hydrated lime and Natural Hydraulic lime. NHL is what's used in Europe. You can get it from Limeworks in Lancastor PA.
Homedepot unqualified idiots.
Refuse to say I DON'T KNOW
Probably the most enjoyable instructional video I’ve ever seen! Not like these yayhoos who do it twice and crank out a video.its nice to hear a true craftsman talk
Thanks zacdotson,, Mike
Let me tell you you’ve made this incredibly easier for me. I’ve always been interested in concrete, Masonary veneer stone work, but I thought the whole process of concrete was much more complicated. I’m gonna go out now and fix a wall that fell down 10 years ago in front of my house and has made me crazy because I refuse to pay a small fortune to fix this when it’s just piling up the stones straight being careful and putting concrete it was a freestanding wall that eventually fell because of tree root. Thank you so very very much
Thanks Byepolar,,, Mike
More food for thought, thanks for sharing valuable your thoughts.
Thanks Paul, Mike
Thanks for the video. Now I know the difference. I'm going to try to remember by thinking Type S is Stronger, and Type N is 50/50, in the middle, like the letter N is in the middle of the alphabet.
Thanks again, Mike.
Thanks, Mike
Hi Mike.
Im living out here in Wyoming, Bighorn Basin.
We do not get much rain or snow. Cold temps in winter.
What ive learned is that Type S mortar is the way to go for sidewalk repairs.
Also, painting portland on is a great way to freshen up foundation walls.
Thanks for your tips
Hi Richard, I never use type s for sidewalk repairs, I only use sand and Portland or a fast drying product, my opinion, , I have videos on " concrete repair" Mike haduck, thanks Mike
Awesome!!!
Thank you for explaining the difference.
I am a licensed contractor and I still have so much to learn.
Great video!
Thanks Tiger, Mike
I'm in for the journey and Mike is the mason I want to be. Travelling the world educating myself to educate others to build awesome masonry
Thanks Jeszie, Mike
Thank you for the explanation. I appreciate you “dumbing it down” for those of us that’s not so experienced
Thanks Kathy, Mike
Thanks Mike, I have been a masonry contractor in Michigan since 1972......Great video, Bugaiski Construction & House Moving,
.
Thanks I appreciate hearing that from a professional, Mike
@@MikeHaduck You have inspired me to get back to the work I love after a heart attack a few years ago.....Gary
Thanks Gary, God bless ,I wish you well, Mike
Again...so much knowledge there!! I never realized there were so many different types. Interesting video.
Thanks Sue, Mike
Excellent content. Thank you for explaining this complicated subject in an easy to understand way.
Thanks Anthony. Mike
Great job explaining the products and what they’re best used for, much appreciated!
Thanks, Mike
Mike,
Love watching your presentations. You are a great teacher. I have a block and brick job coming up and I feel ready to go. Thanks for all the work you do.
MHSOHK university.
Thanks Thomas, Mike
Hey Mike, really cool to see a vid from ya. I tell ya what Mike, I am of Irish decent and grew up on construction sites in the UK. My Dad (the Boss) would tell them to throw me off the first floor when I was 4/5 years old. He would ALWAYS catch me.....THAT is a cool Dad. When it comes to mixes....3 shovels soft sand....one shovel Portland. God bless n peace to ya.
Thanks Darren, Mike
Thank you Mike, I didn't know shit about joint mortar until I watched your video. All I wanted is to build a retaining wall here in the south, and I feel as I could teach someone about block mortar. Thanks Again. keep speaking to us stupid people.
Hi Troy, I am still learning myself, thanks Mike
Thanks for the info. It gave me a lot a clarity which is hard to find when you first start to look. Explaining what the letters represent was also very helpful! Cheers.
Thanks Martin, Mike
Mike thanks for the videos we just made our first home purchase a 1892 farmhouse with a stone foundation, your other videos have helped get ready to repair/maintenance it we are in the top of Maryland and appreciate the videos !
Thanks, Mike
Excellent post. I learned tuckpointing of fieldstone from Tom Silva the carpenter of This Old House. He adds a concrete bonding adhesive with this Type S mix. Quite a few comments harp on the old school way as being best but I haven't gotten any cracks. Still good as new. Anytime I got cracks was if I didn't wet the stones first and the mix was a bit dry. I now mist the work a few times over a 24 hour period and wet down the stones before I start tuckpointing. Looks pissa when the joints are brushed in.
Thanks MrBrian, Mike
Thanks Mike, you have taught me so many tricks that I have used....
Thanks Nicholas, Mike
Another great informative video, Mike. M.H.S.O.H.K. Best education for the cost!
Thanks Brian, Mike
Mike great videos here. Always enjoy watching them. Thanks for all you do out here, we all appreciate it very much.
Thanks Jack, I appreciate it
, Mike
Thank you Mike for making this video.your explanation is the best one I have seen.
Thanks Greg, Mike
Hey Brother... Well done.... I think your message was clear, kind of like the the horse stomp once for "1" twice for "2." Use for up and down ... not for patio... I think I got it😳🤔.... You are deffinetly helping many people. When All is said and done... You are TOP NOTCH BROTHER.... GOD BLESS... Ernie
Thanks Ernie, God bless, Mike
I just used that same S mortar mix for a 3 story 2-flue chimney in my new house. Stacked about 50 pairs of the chimney blocks then brick up through the roof. Im up in maine. Outside on the roof i added a bit of portland to it. My thinking was stiffening it a little for freeze/thaw. I added basically 7 parts s mortar mix (which is already portland/lime/sand) and half a part portland; 14:1.
And I added a large slate cap to keep water off. Unfortunately thats not to code in some areas but its fine where I am and it does a great job protecting the masonry.
Thanks A, sounds good, Mike
Thanks for doing these videos Mike! They have been very helpful to me.🙂
Thanks Ray, Mike
Very helpful video.
Thanks for taking the time to create it.
Thank jeff,, Mike
Thanks Mike for sharing your experience.
😎
Thanks Jerry, Mike
What do you use for fixing castellation of new concrete for better cosmetic appearance?
Hi, I don't know what you mean castellation, I have lots of videos on concrete repair or painting with portland or foundation repair, those techniques might help, thanks, Mike
Love your videos Mike. Thank you for making them! Hope you have more travel planned to review more places around the world and their contrast with your native PA.
Thanks Paul, someday, Mike
Thanks Mike! Very informative. Still a little confused on the difference between lime and portland. I’ll check out your other video. Thanks you!
Hi Scott, it's called "lime mortar or portland," What should I Use? Mike haduck
I've learned so much from your experience! Im in Westmoreland pa and I've been wondering how to address my deteriorating stone foundation and I believe I've got all suggested materials and will be fixing myself, thanks for all you've shared.🏁🏁🏁
Thanks steelcity, Mike
Great video Mike always wanted to know the differences in motor .
Thanks Rocco, Mike
Just found you here on u tube…..I am learning lots of valuable stuff…..I have lots of lil repairs I need to do on walls steps etc…thank you for sharing your knowledge !
Thanks Rick, Mike
One of the best mortar videos I've ever seen great video man I'd have to say this video helped me a lot
Thanks Trina, Mike
Ha ha, I love it, great video, and the final few minutes says, "Use type N in the South and Type S in the North! Perfect(At least in the Northern Hemisphere)!
Thanks minman,, Mike
For a small project placing limestone slabs on a front stoop. My wife and I bought torn bag "specials" from Lowes. We got some N mortar and some s mortar. Also got a torn bag of sand topping mix. We mixed the S and N bags as needed and threw in some sand topping mix for more volume. Combining the S and N mortar with some sand topping mix. I figure we ended up with some VQ mortar batch. VQ standing for very questionable mortar mix. Bottom line is I sure wish I watched your program before I bought the variety of mortar that we did. Sor far the wind hasn't blown the limestone slabs away. Great learning experience.
Hi Bernard, I have a playlist out "stone patio installation " Mike haduck I show what I use and all my techniques there, weather means a lot, I mostly use Portland and sand for patios, I hope it helps, thanks Mike
Great video. Learned so much just watching you tool it and explain the motions
Thanks just,, Mike
Check an agriculture supply place for lime. I can get agricultural lime at the local co-op. In school we used one part of lime to three parts of sand. And here in Meridian, Mississippi, a lot of the old buildings used lime cement.
Thanks Robert, Mike
I do enjoy your videos. They're very informative, You know your craft well. You make things seem easy to do. "No big deal" as you used to say. 😄 Thank you for sharing. (Loved the Scripture you shared.)
Thanks Paul, I appreciate it,Mike
Happened upon your video. Dig your style. I love the line...'if you don't understand that video, I can't help you.'
I subscribed and am about to deep dive.
Thanks drew,, Mike
Great review, Mike! Very helpful. Cheers!
Thanks Harish, Mike
I've been a bricklayer my whole life and I'm 71 and happily retired. My experience with Quikrete mix is that the sand is too sharp and the mix is too weak. We would always add a shovel of regular mortar per bag to make it more workable. Brewman
Thanks brewman, I agree, Mike
Thanks for this great video Mike. Really helps connect the dots in the trade. It's interesting to hear you mention adobe and other historical practices. Are you familiar with modern "natural building practices" like strawbale homes and earth plaster? It would be interesting to hear your thoughts on different techniques using only natural materials.
Hi Shadrick. Mostly the old school stuff, but I keep my eyes open, thanks Mike
Love your videos, great and helpful knowledge, thanks.
Thanks Jonathan, Mike
This is the guy I want to learn from , years of experience . Thank you
Thanks, Mike
Thanks, Mike
WOOHOO. The review video I've always been waiting for!!!
Thanks Medic, Mike
Great explanation of each of the mixes. Here in Alabama about 2 weeks ago, I couldn't find type S at the brick company and home depot only had 3 bags (not pre-mix). I snatched em! Looks like masonry supplies aren't exempt from shortages.
Hi Mikey, it's true, guys are waiting in line to get concrete around here, Mike
we got a note on the plaster yard wall Holcum is going to stop supplying the S-type
Very smart mason cheers brother and thank you for sharing your knowledge 👍😎🍻💪
Thanks again,, Mike
very good title and thumbnail mike, I make concrete videos too,but no where near as big as u on youtube. maybe someday, untill then keep up the good work 👍
just subscribed i think there are things you can do to get you in the algorithms for you tube on the searches. like for example your wording like how to pour a side walk. etc. you have some good videos there cant see why the subs are not there.
@@dangates3022 thank u dan, I appreciate it. I work really hard on them. it may not be like mikes video, he has been doing this for years I actually started during last year spring time, I like the videos like Mike did, maybe I will do some more w out music and see how they go
@@dangates3022 i have a video that ranks but for something that not a ton of people search for,but I make about 1.50 to $2 a day off youtube. nothing to write home about lol
@@GRUBB-MUDD NP i watch a lot of you tube. i look at a lot of people i follow on you tube, their subs likes and views. to see where they are at and if they are growing. and you do have to work hard to get the subs. but you tube has to put you in the search to get you out there. in my opinion. how that happens is anyone's guess. yeah mike has been around a long time i give him that, but i think he should have way more subs and views than he has. there are people out there with a million plus. vise grip gayrodge, scotty kilmer. viva i have been watching he's not in the trades a political commenter but he worked hard to increase his subs from 75k to 500k. he did go and report on the truckers in Ottawa and called out his channel to them the people there. and he did shout out other channels too who he met. i guess having your self on fb, rumble and other social media will help too. because they will put you in their feeds. most i follow in the trades have at least FB accounts a long with youtube. i also see people have channel's they support in their bio. and that's how i find some content also. like - watch wess work, this old tony and a friend of mine Norcal715, he does an electronics channel has been on the tubes for 10 plus years but has no views or subs, does atleast one show weekly, but that content i'snt that interesting to most people. i think if you keep at it you will succeed. anything in the trades should peak peoples interest's. i'm a journeyman - millwright/industrial mechanic. and am always looking to go next level on my skills. you can't retain it all. but i know when I'm doing a masonry jobs i look at mikes videos for a reference and to jog my memory. keep at it you will get there
@@dangates3022 thanks Dan, yeah I mainly do it for fun, I would like to do some colabs w big creators and small creators just because I think that would be alot of fun, I post usually 1 video per week, I used to do more but I have slowed down I'm not gona lie. I have some loyal viewers , but I changed the style of content I was making which kinda hurt my channel, but mostly I do it 4 fun right now
aside from being an ever-flowing font of genuine knowledge, you make me laugh out loud: " I don't know what they were smokin' that day"😆🤣 thank you for both. subbed and liked!
Thanks Penelope, Mike
Hey Mike love your videos helped me with a few small jobs I did for family step repair and block windows
Thanks Nicky, Mike
I hadn't seen this video yet for some reason, but great explanation! I've been worried about my mortar choice on my old foundation and have resolved myself to use type-s in places that should experience less movement and more water(below grade foundation) and type-n in above grade exterior sections. While I understand that mixing a custom batch for the area and type of stones in the foundation may add a certain amount of longevity, I'm not convinced common mortals will really see a difference.
Hi check out my videos on "stone foundation repair" I show what I used and all my techniques, what you said I think you are OK, don't overthink it, it's just a go over and could always be gone over again, thanks Mike
I learn alot from your videos Mike. Kee it up. Id like to see more about stone building , such as our famous Pennsylvania stone barns and houses. Keep it up.
Thanks Peter, Mike
Mike would you use type s or type n for pargng a foundation 120 years old with old.lime mortar ?
Hi Kevin, I got a playlist " foundation repair" and another " stone foundation repair" I show what I use in each circumstance, thanks Mike
The s type works good for floor leveling also
Thanks Dee, Mike
Yeah, I like that Type S Quikrete. They make a good ready-mix. .. I think it is a true lime-portland mix. Whereas Brik-Lok Types N and S don't have lime, instead it has air to give it workability. When air replaces the lime, that's called 'masonry cement', but it doesn't 'grab' the brick as good as a true Portland-Lime cement.. That's why I like that Quikrete brand👍
Thanks, Mike
@@MikeHaduckThanks for mentioning briklock doesn't use lime. I'll stay away from that brand since my current project is fixing up a stone retaining wall on an island with the bottom 1' underwater and I think the flexibility of lime will give longer life. I notice both sakrete type n and type s data sheets indicate lime is used and stores carry it here in Canada. Still debating type n versus type s.
@tom3639 hi Tom, I did a video called " lime , mortar or portland" what should I use? Mike Haduck, that's the best opinion I could give., thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck Thanks. Will look at today. Much appreciated. It's much appreciated by that you share your knowledge and experience.
@@tom3639 Brik loc doesn't use lime but is still a very good masonry cement. It's been around a long time. But in your case, you want to use a straight Portland cement and sand for stone, especially if it's being exposed to water. If it's salt water, there's a very specific type of Portland cement you want to use, it's not the regular kind. I don't remember off the top of my head, so look into it.
Mike, this was a great explanation. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks, Mike
Thank you!!! you are a expert technician and craftsman!
Mike do you have a video on adding dye to the N mortar mix?
Thanks gary,, Mike
Thank you for explaining this. Ive spent two days looking for a stucco mix for my chimney because nobody carries them in metro Detroit. So Ive been looking for a suitable replacememt to seal my chimney.
Thanks, Mike
you got that Clint Eastwood look during the last 10 or 15 seconds of the video. "Go ahead, make my day"!
Thanks Kechum, Mike
Hi Mike. When parging a chimney do you recommend 2 to 1 sand/portland or would you throw some S mortar in there?
Hi Jon, usually what I use on my foundation videos, thanks Mike
Just use type S with sand 2 to 1. Forget the word portland and just use the type S. It's some strong stuff, we used type S for almost everything👍.
The Roman’s were using a volcanic ash cement mix that was used to build the Colluseum and used for foundations in harbour construction as it cured and set underwater , still in good condition today , 6:44
Thanks Stephen, Mike
Hey Mike, another good video. Always seems to me the Type N tends to "powder" more the next day. Might be giving it too much water, but the N just seems significantly weaker to me.
Hi J, I am not a fan of n mortar in my area, every situation is different, I mostly use my own mixes but it's OK for certain things, thanks Mike
this man is a national treasure
Thanks daxili,,, I appreciate the kind words, Mike
Incredibly informative, thank you for the video!!
Thanks josh,, Mike
Hi Mike, Writing from Montréal Québec. I'm watching your videos for maybe 3 weeks, from Egypt to Florida to Pensylvania, i love your videos, it's instructive and also a nice touch of history all over the world ! I understand the concept of "mortar", "ciment" and "concrete". In my brain, mortar is what is between brick and stone. I understand also that it can play the role of stuco but: Why calling a mortar( N or S whatever) a ciment or a stuco?
I have to replace my bricks under the balcony of the second floor, the old original waterholic bricks mostly all explode since 1925. So i bought a bag of mortar type N. Those hidden bricks were the only one not changed in the front of the 3 floors house but were hidden by fascia and soffit....totally stupid but this what they did maybe in the 80's. I got lucky, I found the exact red claybrick " riverdale bark" brand new for .70 cents in us dollars. Anyway, now i'm making experience( practicing like you are repeating in your videos) with 3 samples of the same mortar type N premix: More sandy, more neutral and more liquid. I want to know which one stick to the brick better because yesterday was a fiasco in front of my house in the ladder, the mortar did not stick the bricks together, maybe i did not wait long enough idk. So i'm practicing in my backyard without neighbors or walkers watching, without potential city inspectors( never know with them). I have no particular questions, which you the best, take good care Mike ! ps: english is my not my first language, my english is like 6/10
Hi jac, I got a video " repointing brick work" Mike haduck, that should answer all your questions, thanks Mike