It's fairly common that one end of an adjustable tie rod to be reverse threaded. It allows it to be turned & adjusted in situ, either lengthening or shortening it as required.
@@poorboysrc it seems like you dont understand: the threads are going the wrong direction. use a rod that is threaded right for the whole length and your fine.
Thanks for the try. I'm with you, over the years we all complained about the slop in their steering. For running around with buggies, it might not count. But this is an on-roader. The versatile chassis shouldn't be an excuse for it, either. They should do it right and I don't think this would cost mor on production.
Hey Fil, well I don't really know what to say about this chassis after watching you try to improve it and being so disappointed! The lighter comments made me laugh though - your mossy crack!!! 😂😂 If I remember correctly, those turnbuckle shafts are threaded left on one side and right on the other, that's why you could only get one ball connector on each rod. If you cut the head off a long M3 bolt you could use that to make a tie rod with metal ball connectors on each end. But I don't think that will solve the overall sloppiness of this chassis. Bloody thing!!! Hell, your rant was entertaining though! Stay excellent, dude! 😎👊👍
You know what? I never even thought that the reverse thread would be the issue. I figured the steel links would still mount up, despite the reverse thread. But now that I think about it, the thread is backwards, so how would it work? 🤦lol! But yeah dude, this chassis has frustrated me beyond belief. I'll stick to my Monster Trucks and big wheel RC's I think. 😂
i think i have seen a 3rd suspension link somewhere, like the TT-02 front mod where they add a upper link to the bumper. A lot of high class touring rcs have 2 upper links (in a triangle) to make it more stable, but the problem is to find a suitable mounting point on the chassis.
Yeah, it is frustrating to fight to get a car working right and have to add a bunch of stuff to it to get it working right. One of the reasons I have not gotten a TD car from them! I have mine here to get built so I know I am going to have to do some extra work to get it as tight as possible when building it. I am glad to see it getting unplugged before going into the trunk this time, no more fried motors lol!!!
Fil, that's so frustrating! First of all, top effort on your end for going above and beyond with this chassis. Not sure if you even want to give it another shot, but I'll give you a couple of solutions some users have been trying with this platform that seem promising. I'll DM you😊
Haha no way! Believe it or not, I picked it up about 1.5 years ago. Single owner, 120,000 km, all service records, too. My wife and I painted it, fixed up the body work, tuned it up and she runs like a top! I get more 👍🏻 driving the Camry than I do my '94 Firebird (which is absolutely mint!). 😂
@@poorboysrc my dad drove his '85 Camry until the wheels literally almost fell off (cv joints close enough lol) It legally had driven around the sun and back. Same color as yours too! Might even be the same car! It definitely could hit 999,999 and flip over again haha
You can change the TT02 + TT02S from front or rear wheel drive, all you have to do is remove the drive shafts and diff cups from the front or rear. Voilà sorted.
Performs about as well as I expected for such a budget-kit. You, however, wére on the right track with the ball-ends. I own quite a few budget Tami's, and their ball studs and ball-ends ALWAYS have more play than a completely worn-out lawnmower. I usually replace them with Traxxas rod-ends and hollow balls. TRX-5525, I believe they are. Tamiya's own strengthened rod-ends are also nice and tight. The soft PVC rod ends in the cheaper Tamiya kits are terrible floppy-bendy. Tires are actually the bigger problem with Tamiya TC kits. Apart from the comp-aimed chassis-kits, the stock tires are absolutely atrocious in even the slightest bit of moisture. The tires are for wear resistance. "Grip" is an afterthought and only kinda-sorta exists when it's a dry underground. And better get used to the slop if You don 't find a way to stop the top-arms from wobbling allover the place. It has been as such since the venerable TA-01. Fixed link top arms are sloppy as heck in Tami's since day 1. Still didn't stop me from winning races. But that was more due to "not crashing" than the quality of the TA-01.. :lol: There ìs, however, an old 'racer's trick" often used in the old Asso's and Yokomo's (think late 70's, early 80's). "Stuff 5-minute epoxy in the parts that hold the pivots/hinge-pins, dip the A-arms' pivot points/hinge-pins in Teflon grease, press them in the pivot holes. let harden, and with a bit of luck (!!!), You can take the A-arms out again, carefully cut away the oozed-out and hardened epoxy in the pivot holes, and refit the A-arms. Voilà. instant 'no slop' Messy, but it works. Think "Improvised Bushings" Ahh.. the things we had to do to make those early cars halfway controllable. The BT-1 would be a marvel of 'precise fit' in those days. Hand fitting, and drilling A-arms (among other things) was 'expected' when building an RC car.. :P " I feel old"
Wow you had put some serious effort into tightening up your RC's. I never would have thought of that epoxy/Teflon trick, but it sounds like it worked! Yeah Tamiya slop is a thing, we all accept it and honestly, I normally don't mind. But this is just an entirely new level of slop that's just out of this world. 🤦
Tamiya doesn't seem to care got re release monster beetle and spent £80 on MIP diff + nearly £100 on metal parts etc & still not put it together yet but when I do want it to work just like you said in video should work how it should straight out of the box. Goodluck mate
No they really don't seem to care, do they? I know they price their kits a little cheaper in order to reduce sticker price and allow the builder to customize as they wish. But that model is getting pretty old! Bushings, pogo stick shocks, CVD's that are too short on the Monster Beetle, I could go on and on... They really do need to step up their game. 👌
I got super excited when I heard that Tamiya would release a 257mm rwd touring car as I was waiting for one ever since the F103GT was released, which was the closest to a rwd touring car up to that point. Can't tell you how disappointed I was when I saw that it would use the TT01/02 suspension design with those awful plastic balls.
And they're even worse than the TT02! This chassis makes the TT02 feel like driving a Tesla, lol! It's all over the place, and nearly impossible to drive. It's a pretty major disappointment from Tamiya. 😭
just finished mine and did some testing, in my case/experience the metal ball's are actually still quite lose in the arm's so that did not really have the desired effect and will most likely need to be 3rd party metal parts to really kill the slop there. in terms of shims i ordered 2 bags from 3racing that came with 0.1/0.15/0.2/0.25 and 0.3mm shims 10 each...only needed one bag but think the lowest amount of shimming i have is 0.4 with the most being probably 0.55 (just put 0.3's on the inside everywhere and played with the outside untill it was free moving but slopless). contemplating going tamiya fluride coated 5mm ball connectors with the low friction ball ends. i have an official tamiya steering kit for my TT-02 and it has 0 slop so...they can do it....just need to figure out what parts they put in that kit (had 2 spare ball connectors and just the ball connectors made a very minor possibly placibo difference). on the steering there's also a little slop coming from the kingpin's (have not shimmed these, the way i had to get them in there i need to order new ones...possibly a new piece cause i don't know if i can get it out of there >.< but i was able to shim around the ball bearings of the steering, only 0.2 worth of shimming but it stopped it from rocking a bit (just some comming from the kingpin's now and then it's all ball end slop...and low friction suspention ball slop but atleast that's primarily up and down slop). i'm also thinking of changing the diff, i have drift tyre's which are useless on it, and slicks which...work to well ( i want it to be able to pop a drift if i want to...it currently just can't, power go's to 1 wheel or somewhere but i have no idea how to get the result i'm looking for >.> i've read a ball diff is pretty much what i'd want but they are a pain the rear. and i'm not sure what to do with a oil filled gear diff...they recommend thicker oil to reduce wheelspin....so then....thin oil to increase wheelspin? or as i'd like it to manifast gain the ability to pop a drift? provided the engine(17T)/battery(7.2V NIMH..don't wanna burn the house down) can deliver the goods.
Good on you for dialing this chassis in. You've got a lot more patience and understanding than I do, hahaha! You'll have to run a clinic on how to get rid of the slop on this chassis. The BT-01 guru channel! 😂 - Thanks for watching, and thank you for your great advice. 👍🏻
@@poorboysrc found another cheap tweak for the BT-01...atleast for mine. the pegs that go in to the low friction suspention ball's on mine were to long, when fully tightned down and rotated the low friction suspention ball itself did not rotate. took a flat file and filed the pegs down until my finger nail felt the edge of the suspention ball. definetly feels less wobbley. doubt i even took off 0.1mm just enough to make it firm. (the rattle reduction on the rear is actually suprisingly much :o)
@@poorboysrc just trying to get this thing sorted and firm :P made some progress on the ball end's had 2 spare ends and connectors and they are definetly different (they tend to warp my tools when i take them off >.>) but measuring the ball connectors the one from the TT-02 upgrade have a 4.1mm hole and the BT-01 OG's have a 4.3mm hole it's about all i could find as to why the other ones are definetly a little better. i'm starting to feel this kit is the way it is because there's a BT-01 type-S or type-R comming in the future depending on how well it does :P
Thanks for this and the other videos! I am looking for something new to try and TB-01 seemed to be a good addition. I never want it to be fast but I simply want to have some fun. Then I was worried about the slop. And your videos help me a lot. Swapping the suspension entirely like CKG RC (saw your comment right there lol) would be the best choice, also allowing me to adjust the camber angles. But again i have to consider how much effort and extra cash I should spend on this chassis. I have two questions right now and I was wondering if you could give me your opinions 😃 Q1 Should I go for different RWD chassis, hopefully with plenty of spare / aftermarket parts? Any recommendations? By the way, currently I already have M-06 pro, which is really good, and used to have F103GT and F104 log time ago, which I always had issue with left-hand oversteer. Q2 Will there be upgraded version like "Pro" released in the future and should I wait for it? Keeping up with the good work!☺ P.S. It is kinda stupid but what about using a Gyro? I am recently putting it to almost my entire fleet (M05, M06, FF03, Sakura Zero S, DT-02, Drift Package, OTA-R, etc...) as experiemnts and it looks like working. Gyro improves the yaw stability even on the straight! I believe a Gyro can make BT-01 look like a well-tuned chassis too😝
I bet a gyro would be a life-saver on the BT-01, especially when configured in RWD format. It pulls along pretty good in FWD. But who the heck wants to drive a FWD Supra???? Lol! If you do add a gyro, keep me posted on how it goes. Personally, I'm not a fan of the BT-01. It's a design marvel with ease of access for repairs, and versatile driveline configurations. But that all came at a HIGH cost of slop. More slop than should ever be slopped. It's 11/10 slop. Slopasaurus Rex. Slop, Hammer Time. Yeah, that much slop! 🤣🤣🤣 If I were to recommend d a 2WD (RWD) car... Oh man, I would probably guide you to a buggy... Something fun. Holiday Buggy, Aqroshot, Neo Fighter, Something along those lines. I don't think we'll see a "Pro" version of the BT-01. It was a big disappointment upon release and I think that'll haunt any future plans with the chassis from Tamiya. Kind of like the TD4/TD2. All hype, big let-down, now its getting the axe! 🪓 ⚒️
@@poorboysrc Thank you very much! I really appreciate your honest opinion about BT-01 and recommendations of buggy I was actually thinking of buying one more off road too so your choices would be definitely the candidates! Currently I happen to possess DT-02 (wearing wider tires with DIY mod and quite oversteery lol), XV-01, and Traxxas TRX-4 so I might pick DT-03, which is considered to be more stable than DT-02, not to mention very affordable price There are tons of reviews on a lot of other chasses on your chanells so I will definitely check them for the next buy to determine Still BT-01 is a candidate because of positive reviews on its fun-to-drive potential (of course with anti-slop mode I guess) so I will also consider that choice. But anyway, as you described, BT-01 has such crazy slops! I used to drive old Tamiyas like TT-01, FF-01, FF-02, M-03 and I am sure they were not like BT-01 at all lol. I actually still do not understand the pricing of BT-01 either. It should be like 70 Euros... I am surprised even in Japan they are sold with like 110 Euros. When I was younger RC shops in Akihabara, Tokyo regularly sold chasses 42% off from the official japanese price, so TT01 and M03 were cheaper than 60 Euros. Now here in Germany BT-01 is sold from 130 Euros so to me it costs double the price I would pay for. I miss the affordability of Tamiya back then in japan... Sorry for another long text but thanks again!! If I make some interesting mods or attempts, I will definitely let you know on comments, or on my channel
I like you, Fil. Like me, you're in the unenviable, daunting task of removing SLOP from Tamiya vehicles!! This one seems to be a bad offender! 👎 Love the humor, and your solutions. There's no chance I could afford any new kits for a long time, but if I ever get one of these, I'll refer to this. 😊
Thanks brother, glad you're here to enjoy the sloppy ride! Haha! Gotta keep it fun, I mean, even a sloppy, frustrating day of RCing is a really good day, isn't it? Cheers pal! 🍻
Have you checked to see if the issues plague the MB01 chassis. The BT01 is similar and looks like Tamiya just up scaled the parts. It may be a product of the upscaling caused some of the issues. Tamiya has upscale before with the M03 and the FF02. So there might be an issue
Yeah I had the same issues with my MB-01, only worse! Being a smaller wheelbase, it was even harder to drive than the BT-01. If you watch my MB-01 in Action video, you can see the car darting around. 🤦
Hey, the plastic suspension balls started with the TT01….the steel balls were an upgrade for the TT02 but work for the TT01. I have used them for all my TT01 and 02’s
Have you tried a different radio? I find the same with my GT3B. It wanders and veers all over the place, it is not a low latency remote meaning response time is awful. Try a Radiolink RC4 or RC6, or Flysky GT5… game changing and still same price point as the GT3B!
@@poorboysrc try it on the BT01 and see how it fares. My bet is that it will improve it noticeably. Also, any slight tire rub on the body wheel wells will get you pulling in all sorts of unwanted directions. Check for that too. I’m building a BT01, first time I didn’t shim and then I took it all apart now I am shimming with 5mmx8mmx0.3mm shims. The a-arms need about 24 in total for the chassis. Also works for tt02 as well.
We have to remember that this is an entry level kit. Having said that i agree 100% with what your saying.. It should work out the box. There's always something wrong or badly designed with every tamiya. This one has just about everything wrong with it. Anyone thinking about buying one... DON'T. Mine will just sit on the shelf to look at. 😐😮💨
Hey good effort at getting rid of the slop which did look really awful like you say. Those rods are reverse thread on one side so you won't get a metal end on unless you can find one that is also reverse thread. Rally tyres are better on the tarmac I find but in the wet it's probably still not going to be good. Maybe Tamiya has tried to make this too many things in one and it doesn't do any of them well. Stick with the tried and trusted ones that are only one configuration. Good stuff Fil 👍👍
Yeah the reverse thread didn't even click in until I started reading these messages... I was so frustrated by the chassis that I couldn't even think straight. Lol! 🤦
I'm laughing every time you show us the slop in this chassis. BT really means Beginners Time 😂 Your conclusion/rant was nicer than your TD4 which i thought were hilarious 😆
@@aviano72 haha that's too funny dude. I was SO excited to get my hands on the TD4. Then the RC Elf gifted it to the channel, which made it very special and amped up anticipation even more. Then the diff did its thing and I was just instantly 🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤣👍🏻
I picked up the same car. Was going to try changing out the rear arms and bearing carriers for TT02 parts (if they fit) to remove some of the slop. I don't plan to swap configuration that much, so I don't need two sets of steering knuckles on the car. Yeah racing make a number of aluminum parts for the car also. Might invest in the aluminum steering rack, but that's really the extend of the money I want to put into this car. It's just not worth it.
I've seen guys use TT02S parts for maximum slop-reduction. This seems to be the best bet, but still, why doesn't it just work out of the box? Like you said, not worth all the $$$. 👊🏼
I race TT-01E stock classes, and that things sloppy. Probably one of the most fun classes to race as well. This obsession with slop some people have is very odd, it seems its mostly an issue for people who want to do highspeed runs where going straight is the only requirement. On a track its not really a huge issue unless you're using a highspeed version, for which a 50$ chassis might not be the best thing to build on, especially if its stock. Remember these are like 80$ kits in Japan, just because you got an inflated import price, doesn't mean it was built to be that price in the country of origin, perhaps that's where the expectation of having ball bearings and all that in a supercheap kit comes from. It's like people in Europe who don't understand how a Dodge Viper or Corvette quality looks like it's been made in a chinese shoe factory, but costs supercar money, forgetting its cheap in the US, but gets price hiked once its brought over. -edit- spelling -edit-
I'm a huge Tamiya fan, and a little slop is to be expected. This platform is a different level though. And the smaller cousin, the MB-01 is even worse, due to the smaller wheelbase. They're very hard to drive. The driver spends 30% of the time correcting the car as it tracks where it wants to track, lol! 🤦
It needs a lot of shimming, and guys are using TT02S suspension arms and steering to get rid of the slop. That's a step I'm not willing to take, as it defeats the purpose of buying a new kit in the first place. I'm a stubborn old goat that way. Lol! 😂
Not sure what the kit is about, why not just use a stock TT-02? Anyways intresting how much you tried out on it, still dont get the point why tamiya released the BT-1 / MB-1 in this way, hopefully they come up with something better soon. A shame we are stuck with the low end TT-02.
I think the Tamiya designers engineered a masterpiece of versatility, and the cost of all that versatility was slop. At the end of the day, I think it was a fail. 😭
Jesus Fil, I have my welding hemet down bussing away while listening to your video feeling every bit of that pain. All be it with the Fox , but feeling the pain just the same. If you want to pass it on, I'll pick up the torch. Venmo you or something. I live for the Tamiya torture.
Damn iv still not run mine yet... on the steering arms u have them bolted in different holes so that maybe why its all over the place... im looking forward to running mine but i know ill want to mod it in some way to get rid of that slop 😂 good video man, i wonder if different rear arms would fit? 🤔
Yeah at about the 8:30 mark you can see the toe-links are mounted in different holes in the steering uprights. Thats going to make Ackerman all sorts of wonky.
Jeeeez sooo much slop! Mine Is getting more sloppy as I play with it, my suggestion would be maybe try the “high end” 5mm balls and “proper” ball ends that you find on the TRF racing models?
I considered it, but I think it's not going to be worth it. I'm holding my ground when I say that the car should at the very least, not crab walk right out of the box. 🤣
@@poorboysrc 100% agree, shouldnt be this sloppy. This is the reason i avoided the MB-01, I drove a friends model and it was wagging its back end on the straight…. BT-01 didnt look any better but I couldnt resist the FR layout 🤦🏻♂️ However I’m 100% sure if somebody wanted to put in the effort, regular c hub suspension from another model will work on this, eliminating the slop. I actually think Tamiya will release a version using TRF parts like an “S” version or something
@@rexrcs yeah buddy, in my MB-01 running video at the skate park, you can visibly see the rear end wagging back and forth like a fish! It's insane! BT-01 did the same thing, but it was a little better. Hopefully someone sorts this out, I hate giving Tamiya (or any brand) a hard time on TH-cam, but it is what it is. A sloppy mess! 🤪
Hi, thank you for trying to improve this chassis. I will simpy not buy it and probably sell the MB01 that I acquired too soon. I too love Tamiya and we can let go for 80's, maybe 90's car, but in 2020's, it's simply not possible. Ok ok, it's kinda the price to pay for the modularity, but I'm sure they can do better (let's remind each other that we're talking of a japanese brand...) 😢. They should focus on re-release that we are waiting since ages (Astute, King Cab, Falcon, other Group C, and so on...). Anyway, enough rant for today, thank you again for trying 🤝
Yeah the MB-01 suffers from the same issues, but being 1/12 scale, it seems even worse! I like your thoughts... Tamiya, please give us the rere's that we all want! 🙏
Hard to say, it certainly varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and kit to kit. This is just an unusually high amount, and add that it's on an on-road chassis, which amplifies the effect.
The frustrating thing is that tmiya dont give a shit about complaints, they just do theor own thing. Even the new chinese manufacturers listen to customer feedback and update/fix issues pointed out.
Great effort Fil, but as with the TD4 Tamiya obviously have not done a great job with the design of this one. Which, when you think about it is pretty bad taking into account they have been doing this for nearly 50 years! I know things are designed to keep within a budget, but these issues just seem like poorly thought out, and poorly executed engineering to me. In this day and age we should not have to put this much extra time and expense into making something simply 'work' from new.... It's not even a case of upgrading, it's essential work just to achieve basic function, and that just takes the fun out of things. The other thing that concerns me is just how much worse the slop will get as the plastic wears with repeated use..... If it's bad when new, it's guna be really bad once you've put a few miles on it! Much as I like the concept of this chassis, I would never consider buying one. That steering slop, and non adjustable steering is one of the reasons I would never buy a TTO2..... this thing seems even worse! Don't get me wrong, I love Tamiya, but I generally stick to models from the first 100 for nostalgia purposes.....I know many of the original models had issues, but many of their earlier cars actually seem far more competent than much of their newer stuff straight out of the box! The old TA02 on road chassis was a lot better than their recent on road platforms, the original Top Force is substantially better than the newer TD4 4WD Buggy etc etc..... Sorry mate, going off on a bit of a rant here! Please don't choose this chassis for this year's speed run challenge dude! We all know that Mossy cracks get slippery when wet (ooh er! 😂)..... but even after all those modifications the amount of slop in that thing still looked pretty bad mate. My Porsche 959 is from 1986,and doesn't have anywhere near that amount of slop, and as a result doesn't suffer with that colossal torque steer. I'm adament that it would totally destroy these modern chassis in a race..... Just point and steer, it goes exactly where you tell it! But, on a positive note, it's made for an interesting and entertaining video matey. Question now is- Do you just give up with this platform, or spend more time and money on it in the search to improve things? 🤔 Looking forward to seeing this one unfold bud! Ps....... Just drive it in the rain then leave it still plugged in when you put it in the boot of your car. With any luck it may just go up in flames! 🔥 Then, claim on your insurance, and buy another Midnight pumpkin, Monster Beetle, and Clod buster. Problem solved!? 🤔 😉 👍 👍 👍
That is the solution of the year! Just let the thing burn, burn, BURN!!! Hahaha! 😂 But you're right, I'm certain your 40+ year old 959 would eat up the BT-01 on the track. I know we're comparing apples to oranges, but a 40 year old apple should never be able to beat a state of the art orange, should it? Aaah, I'm frustrated too pal. I'm done messing with it. I draw the line in the sand when a kit will not even come close to driving straight, out of the box. It's a road car. It should drive straight(ish), shouldn't it? I think Tamiya is getting too comfortable selling garbage that needs to go back to the design dep't. I LOVE modifying my RC's, but can't stomach having to spend more $$$, time, and guess work reinventing their new chassis' JUST to get them to drive straight. 🤬🤬🤬
@@poorboysrc the idea was awesome I'm so upset that it's having such problems both of them they make for a more realistic package for what bodies they put on them day better figure out how to fix these problems and continue to make them cuz I'm sure they can fix them why they haven't tried they've ever made in the past they need to keep making them all including all the m chassis from m01 to mo8. Everybody ever made I would love to see the blazing star come back. Some things that may have not been popular in the past may become popular today because they eventually become missed. And if you can't sell them just send them to me. 😂
Desloppification seems to be a negative Fil! I am sorry this kit has not worked out. It is a little worrying that some of the new Tamiya kits are missing the mark
Big negative there buddy! Too bad, as I had high hopes for this chassis. But fundamentally can't see why a buyer should have to re-engineer the whole car to make it drive straight. 🤯
Seems the suspension geometry is just bad. It's hard to tell from the video, but it seems there's nearly zero caster in the front end. Caster is crucial to the steering self centering with speed. The slop is definitely terrible, but many off - road cars have terrible slop yet handle good anyway because off road cars often have insane amounts of caster in the front end. Proper geometry will often negate most of the slop while the car is moving. Some toe in at the back and toe out at the front often cancels out most of the slop. The problem with these kits is they have no adjustment of that geometry available in the stock parts. Everything is zeroed which means the car handles terrible. I have a couple of tt02 cars and though the suspension is mostly stock except for bearings and oil shocks I make them handle perfectly by removing the horrid tamiya servo saver (a small amount of slop there multiplies several times at the wheels). I also use about 55-60 percent expo on the steering channel. I also balance the wheels and tires which makes a huge difference. They run great and I can run full throttle straight with hands off the wheels and they go in a straight line and stay there. That kit you have there looks like just a nasty design. Too bad Tamiya cocked this one up. Maybe trying to do too much with too little in one car. Maybe stick that nice body back on a trusty tt02 chassis and you'll have a runner. cheers.
Great response, thanks for chiming in! There's actually quite a bit of caster in the front end, but it's still a slop-monster, which I believe is causing the lack of drivability. I like your dedication to making your TT-02 drive straight. I'm not that dedicated... lol! To be fair, I'm not a big road car guy. I prefer my buggies, Monster Trucks and Rally cars. So I lack the patience and attention to make a road car (which, IMO should drive straight) drive straight. 😂 Thanks again for the great comment. 👍🏻
Yea i was shocked at how loosie goosie everything was on my BT01. I drove it on the track once and that was enough. The rwd front motor configuration battery position is also laughable. She will be staying on the shelf.
Oh boy, I couldn't imagine it on a carpet track! It'd be all over the place! Haha! It was like trying to control a bag full of squirrels on the tarmac, I couldn't imagine a high grip track! 🤦
I think the whole configurable chassis gimmick wasn't a good move, jack of all trades master of none comes to mind. I would have preferred a dedicated front wheel drive and rear wheel drive chassis, but Tamiya does what Tamiya does.
The slop is shocking. It’s like a throw back to the early days. It’s not a fault it’s a feature hehe. So much ball cup slop and linkages in the steering. Slop in the hinge pins. I agree it doesn’t have to be that way. If it was a real car it would be defected and unsafe. Perhaps the cheapest mod from here is buying threaded rod and making all new steering using up your new rod ends. I’ve always been tempted to super glue up hinge pin holes and re drill for firmer fit. But never done it. I don’t see a win in the king pin ball joints. Just shocking
Yeah dude, it's bananas. I think the fault is really in the design. The multiple motor mounting positions and having identical steering components on both front and rear expose the chassis to slop. It's insane!
Its pretty poor to have all that, but a lot of people wont care. They will be new and just love skidding it about 😎 but its enough to put me off buying one. For now 😂
Cheap.set of tires and wheels from Amazon and some oil filled shocks may do wonders on that chassis. I know my tt02 handled the same way but those 2 items fixed it. I agree, you spend the money on the kit and you should at least be able to drive in a straight line out of the box.
I didn't even mention the shocks in the video... The stock pogo sticks (in the rear) are completely bottomed out with the FR setup. I almost put on some oil shocks, but I wanted to keep the setup somewhat consistent between videos. 👍🏻
Tamiya want you to go all the way with upgrades, for steering and suspension and the end result is still disappointing. Maybe we should all buy Schumacher's and Associated cars instead😊😊😊. Still a fun hobby for sure, trying to get them to go in a straight line is frustrating for sure. Still working on that for sure. 😊😊😊😊😊
Looks like its Dremel time and fix up the threads on the turn buckle or buy some new blue bling ones. Its quiet tedious to get rid of the slop in a Tamiya its a bit annoying.
I always found the slop kind of funny. Until now. The car darts here, there, everywhere! Wherever and whenever it wants. It's impossible to drive straight. 😤
@poorboysrc I wanted one until I seen this, I'm sure this is a fix but at what cost. Thanks for the video and we still love Tamiya but I hope they fix these issues.
Its strange how the bbx seems to have got everything right but this so wrong. There must be a new aprrentice they have let loose on this chassis 😂😂 Mine is deffo going on marketplace before I destroy it out of frustration.
@@poorboysrc I've seen mixed to favourable reviews of the squash van but no one complain about the bbx yet. There might be a place for a squash at some point as I am missing a monster truck from the collection but I quite like the 6 wheel volvo dumper for that spot.
Yeah not ideal from Tamiya, i think you're right Fil, it's over engineered, too many options of layouts, whilst that's cool, it makes the car versatile, the sacrifices it has to make to accommodate that are too great. It probably should come with parts to make the rear end more normal with standard hubs to lock the rear toe though it'd make it a longer process to change your chassis layout
Yeah that's just it. It's sacrificing drivability for versatility. I like your idea of Tamiya adding some proper c-hubs, etc. to make the rear a little less sloppy, but alas, here we are... Sad days... 😭
They're not telling you the whole story. Deep down inside, they're fighting a winless fight against BT01 slop. It'll fester and eventually consume them until they jump ship and go to Banggood for the rest of their RC life. 🤣🤣🤣
I wish I could tell ya, dude. I don't have the patience or tolerance to try and redesign the whole thing to make it drive straight. Pretty disappointing... 😤
A kyosho fazer mk2 chassis roller kit or the HPI E10 (which has the ability to position the motor in the rear or front) would be better in either chassis case instead of the Tamiya..
Easy way to get those original turnbucles less sloppy, is to use thin plastic from a plastic bag and squeeze it between the ball end and turnbucle 🤓✌️
Whaaaat? Really? No w that you say it, I can picture it working, but it can't be that easy, can it? 🤯
So easy why did we not think of it before, magic upgrade thanks for that one.
@@allanritchie1539😊👍
Tamiya have a special department to build slop in to all chassis. 😜
Yeah I think they drink Sake during lunch then go sloppifying new chassis designs. 😂
It's fairly common that one end of an adjustable tie rod to be reverse threaded. It allows it to be turned & adjusted in situ, either lengthening or shortening it as required.
Not saying that's the problem here, but it's noteworthy ☺️
Only if it's a turn uncle though.
Oh yeah, I'm totally aware of the reverse threads. But the fact that they're not tapped straight is a frustration point! Lol!
@@poorboysrc it seems like you dont understand: the threads are going the wrong direction. use a rod that is threaded right for the whole length and your fine.
9:30 This gives me unfond memories of driving my 82 and 86 Camaros in the rain.
Hahaha yup! I've got a '94 Firebird. I know the pain! 😂
The teflon shims that Traxxas (part #1985) sells are perfect for the Tamiya. I use them on every Tamiya kit I build.
Wicked, thanks for the part number! 👊🏼
Thanks for the try. I'm with you, over the years we all complained about the slop in their steering. For running around with buggies, it might not count. But this is an on-roader. The versatile chassis shouldn't be an excuse for it, either. They should do it right and I don't think this would cost mor on production.
That's just it, I can accept it on a buggy. But on road? It makes the car very unpredictable and hard to drive. 😤
Great car man once you get it dialed. Excited to get started on mine. Thanks buddy
I'm trying to get it dialed, but man, this thing is killin' me! 😭
Hey Fil, well I don't really know what to say about this chassis after watching you try to improve it and being so disappointed! The lighter comments made me laugh though - your mossy crack!!! 😂😂 If I remember correctly, those turnbuckle shafts are threaded left on one side and right on the other, that's why you could only get one ball connector on each rod. If you cut the head off a long M3 bolt you could use that to make a tie rod with metal ball connectors on each end. But I don't think that will solve the overall sloppiness of this chassis. Bloody thing!!! Hell, your rant was entertaining though! Stay excellent, dude! 😎👊👍
Damn you sir!!!!! Beaten again!
@@Paul__FC 🤣😅👌👍
You know what? I never even thought that the reverse thread would be the issue. I figured the steel links would still mount up, despite the reverse thread. But now that I think about it, the thread is backwards, so how would it work? 🤦lol!
But yeah dude, this chassis has frustrated me beyond belief. I'll stick to my Monster Trucks and big wheel RC's I think. 😂
i think i have seen a 3rd suspension link somewhere, like the TT-02 front mod where they add a upper link to the bumper. A lot of high class touring rcs have 2 upper links (in a triangle) to make it more stable, but the problem is to find a suitable mounting point on the chassis.
Wow, what a shame. In the full scale world, that would be a recall. Glad you made it a positive video and love the "extra schloppy!" bits 😁😆
Right? Full scale world, humans would be skidding all over the road, crashing everywhere! Extra sloppy for ye's! 🤣
@@poorboysrc lol
Yeah, it is frustrating to fight to get a car working right and have to add a bunch of stuff to it to get it working right. One of the reasons I have not gotten a TD car from them! I have mine here to get built so I know I am going to have to do some extra work to get it as tight as possible when building it. I am glad to see it getting unplugged before going into the trunk this time, no more fried motors lol!!!
tHE META; ENDS ARE RITH HAAND THREAD ONLY.thats why they wont go on th left hand thread.
Copy that! My bad!
Fil, that's so frustrating! First of all, top effort on your end for going above and beyond with this chassis.
Not sure if you even want to give it another shot, but I'll give you a couple of solutions some users have been trying with this platform that seem promising. I'll DM you😊
Thanks brother! I watched the video and got back to ya. I appreciate the heads up! 🤗
That Toyota Camry 😍
I took my license test behind the wheel of one exactly like that!
Haha no way! Believe it or not, I picked it up about 1.5 years ago. Single owner, 120,000 km, all service records, too. My wife and I painted it, fixed up the body work, tuned it up and she runs like a top! I get more 👍🏻 driving the Camry than I do my '94 Firebird (which is absolutely mint!). 😂
@@poorboysrc my dad drove his '85 Camry until the wheels literally almost fell off (cv joints close enough lol) It legally had driven around the sun and back. Same color as yours too! Might even be the same car! It definitely could hit 999,999 and flip over again haha
Agreed!!
Thanks for watching! 👊🏼
built mine in MR, with the metal balls, and it ran just fine indoor black carpet, even with all the steering play.
Is that right, hey? Not tracking all over the place?
You can change the TT02 + TT02S from front or rear wheel drive, all you have to do is remove the drive shafts and diff cups from the front or rear. Voilà sorted.
Great tip, thanks brother! 😊
"it was a funny angle."
"It was right behind you!"
Hmmmm?
@@poorboysrc that was quote from the movie Snatch lol my bad
@@Hillbillypunk ooooohhhh, hahaha. Great movie! That scene with the two guys in the tiny car is SO good! I haven't seen that movie in 10 years! 🤯
Performs about as well as I expected for such a budget-kit. You, however, wére on the right track with the ball-ends. I own quite a few budget Tami's, and their ball studs and ball-ends ALWAYS have more play than a completely worn-out lawnmower. I usually replace them with Traxxas rod-ends and hollow balls. TRX-5525, I believe they are. Tamiya's own strengthened rod-ends are also nice and tight. The soft PVC rod ends in the cheaper Tamiya kits are terrible floppy-bendy.
Tires are actually the bigger problem with Tamiya TC kits. Apart from the comp-aimed chassis-kits, the stock tires are absolutely atrocious in even the slightest bit of moisture. The tires are for wear resistance. "Grip" is an afterthought and only kinda-sorta exists when it's a dry underground. And better get used to the slop if You don 't find a way to stop the top-arms from wobbling allover the place. It has been as such since the venerable TA-01. Fixed link top arms are sloppy as heck in Tami's since day 1. Still didn't stop me from winning races. But that was more due to "not crashing" than the quality of the TA-01.. :lol:
There ìs, however, an old 'racer's trick" often used in the old Asso's and Yokomo's (think late 70's, early 80's). "Stuff 5-minute epoxy in the parts that hold the pivots/hinge-pins, dip the A-arms' pivot points/hinge-pins in Teflon grease, press them in the pivot holes. let harden, and with a bit of luck (!!!), You can take the A-arms out again, carefully cut away the oozed-out and hardened epoxy in the pivot holes, and refit the A-arms. Voilà. instant 'no slop' Messy, but it works. Think "Improvised Bushings"
Ahh.. the things we had to do to make those early cars halfway controllable. The BT-1 would be a marvel of 'precise fit' in those days. Hand fitting, and drilling A-arms (among other things) was 'expected' when building an RC car.. :P " I feel old"
Wow you had put some serious effort into tightening up your RC's. I never would have thought of that epoxy/Teflon trick, but it sounds like it worked!
Yeah Tamiya slop is a thing, we all accept it and honestly, I normally don't mind. But this is just an entirely new level of slop that's just out of this world. 🤦
@@poorboysrc Well.. A packet of Traxxas teflon shims later, and I got rid of the slop in the a-arms. Traxxas TRX1985
Tamiya doesn't seem to care got re release monster beetle and spent £80 on MIP diff + nearly £100 on metal parts etc & still not put it together yet but when I do want it to work just like you said in video should work how it should straight out of the box.
Goodluck mate
No they really don't seem to care, do they? I know they price their kits a little cheaper in order to reduce sticker price and allow the builder to customize as they wish. But that model is getting pretty old! Bushings, pogo stick shocks, CVD's that are too short on the Monster Beetle, I could go on and on... They really do need to step up their game. 👌
Great video brother 👍
Thanks dude! Hope your week is going great! 👊🏼
I got super excited when I heard that Tamiya would release a 257mm rwd touring car as I was waiting for one ever since the F103GT was released, which was the closest to a rwd touring car up to that point. Can't tell you how disappointed I was when I saw that it would use the TT01/02 suspension design with those awful plastic balls.
And they're even worse than the TT02! This chassis makes the TT02 feel like driving a Tesla, lol! It's all over the place, and nearly impossible to drive. It's a pretty major disappointment from Tamiya. 😭
just finished mine and did some testing, in my case/experience the metal ball's are actually still quite lose in the arm's so that did not really have the desired effect and will most likely need to be 3rd party metal parts to really kill the slop there. in terms of shims i ordered 2 bags from 3racing that came with 0.1/0.15/0.2/0.25 and 0.3mm shims 10 each...only needed one bag but think the lowest amount of shimming i have is 0.4 with the most being probably 0.55 (just put 0.3's on the inside everywhere and played with the outside untill it was free moving but slopless).
contemplating going tamiya fluride coated 5mm ball connectors with the low friction ball ends. i have an official tamiya steering kit for my TT-02 and it has 0 slop so...they can do it....just need to figure out what parts they put in that kit (had 2 spare ball connectors and just the ball connectors made a very minor possibly placibo difference).
on the steering there's also a little slop coming from the kingpin's (have not shimmed these, the way i had to get them in there i need to order new ones...possibly a new piece cause i don't know if i can get it out of there >.< but i was able to shim around the ball bearings of the steering, only 0.2 worth of shimming but it stopped it from rocking a bit (just some comming from the kingpin's now and then it's all ball end slop...and low friction suspention ball slop but atleast that's primarily up and down slop).
i'm also thinking of changing the diff, i have drift tyre's which are useless on it, and slicks which...work to well ( i want it to be able to pop a drift if i want to...it currently just can't, power go's to 1 wheel or somewhere but i have no idea how to get the result i'm looking for >.> i've read a ball diff is pretty much what i'd want but they are a pain the rear. and i'm not sure what to do with a oil filled gear diff...they recommend thicker oil to reduce wheelspin....so then....thin oil to increase wheelspin? or as i'd like it to manifast gain the ability to pop a drift? provided the engine(17T)/battery(7.2V NIMH..don't wanna burn the house down) can deliver the goods.
Good on you for dialing this chassis in. You've got a lot more patience and understanding than I do, hahaha!
You'll have to run a clinic on how to get rid of the slop on this chassis. The BT-01 guru channel! 😂 - Thanks for watching, and thank you for your great advice. 👍🏻
@@poorboysrc found another cheap tweak for the BT-01...atleast for mine.
the pegs that go in to the low friction suspention ball's on mine were to long, when fully tightned down and rotated the low friction suspention ball itself did not rotate.
took a flat file and filed the pegs down until my finger nail felt the edge of the suspention ball.
definetly feels less wobbley.
doubt i even took off 0.1mm just enough to make it firm. (the rattle reduction on the rear is actually suprisingly much :o)
@@anub1s15 that's a great tip, thanks dude! 😊
@@poorboysrc just trying to get this thing sorted and firm :P
made some progress on the ball end's had 2 spare ends and connectors and they are definetly different (they tend to warp my tools when i take them off >.>)
but measuring the ball connectors the one from the TT-02 upgrade have a 4.1mm hole and the BT-01 OG's have a 4.3mm hole it's about all i could find as to why the other ones are definetly a little better.
i'm starting to feel this kit is the way it is because there's a BT-01 type-S or type-R comming in the future depending on how well it does :P
Thanks for sharing your experience on this new kit. Too bad it’s underwhelming..
Thanks brother. Yeah, a bit of a miss on this one. I'll stick to my BBX for now.. Haha. 😂
Thanks for this and the other videos! I am looking for something new to try and TB-01 seemed to be a good addition. I never want it to be fast but I simply want to have some fun. Then I was worried about the slop. And your videos help me a lot.
Swapping the suspension entirely like CKG RC (saw your comment right there lol) would be the best choice, also allowing me to adjust the camber angles. But again i have to consider how much effort and extra cash I should spend on this chassis.
I have two questions right now and I was wondering if you could give me your opinions 😃
Q1 Should I go for different RWD chassis, hopefully with plenty of spare / aftermarket parts? Any recommendations?
By the way, currently I already have M-06 pro, which is really good, and used to have F103GT and F104 log time ago, which I always had issue with left-hand oversteer.
Q2 Will there be upgraded version like "Pro" released in the future and should I wait for it?
Keeping up with the good work!☺
P.S. It is kinda stupid but what about using a Gyro? I am recently putting it to almost my entire fleet (M05, M06, FF03, Sakura Zero S, DT-02, Drift Package, OTA-R, etc...) as experiemnts and it looks like working. Gyro improves the yaw stability even on the straight! I believe a Gyro can make BT-01 look like a well-tuned chassis too😝
I bet a gyro would be a life-saver on the BT-01, especially when configured in RWD format. It pulls along pretty good in FWD. But who the heck wants to drive a FWD Supra???? Lol! If you do add a gyro, keep me posted on how it goes.
Personally, I'm not a fan of the BT-01. It's a design marvel with ease of access for repairs, and versatile driveline configurations. But that all came at a HIGH cost of slop. More slop than should ever be slopped. It's 11/10 slop. Slopasaurus Rex. Slop, Hammer Time. Yeah, that much slop! 🤣🤣🤣
If I were to recommend d a 2WD (RWD) car... Oh man, I would probably guide you to a buggy... Something fun. Holiday Buggy, Aqroshot, Neo Fighter, Something along those lines.
I don't think we'll see a "Pro" version of the BT-01. It was a big disappointment upon release and I think that'll haunt any future plans with the chassis from Tamiya. Kind of like the TD4/TD2. All hype, big let-down, now its getting the axe! 🪓 ⚒️
@@poorboysrc Thank you very much! I really appreciate your honest opinion about BT-01 and recommendations of buggy
I was actually thinking of buying one more off road too so your choices would be definitely the candidates!
Currently I happen to possess DT-02 (wearing wider tires with DIY mod and quite oversteery lol), XV-01, and Traxxas TRX-4 so I might pick DT-03, which is considered to be more stable than DT-02, not to mention very affordable price
There are tons of reviews on a lot of other chasses on your chanells so I will definitely check them for the next buy to determine
Still BT-01 is a candidate because of positive reviews on its fun-to-drive potential (of course with anti-slop mode I guess) so I will also consider that choice.
But anyway, as you described, BT-01 has such crazy slops! I used to drive old Tamiyas like TT-01, FF-01, FF-02, M-03 and I am sure they were not like BT-01 at all lol.
I actually still do not understand the pricing of BT-01 either. It should be like 70 Euros... I am surprised even in Japan they are sold with like 110 Euros. When I was younger RC shops in Akihabara, Tokyo regularly sold chasses 42% off from the official japanese price, so TT01 and M03 were cheaper than 60 Euros. Now here in Germany BT-01 is sold from 130 Euros so to me it costs double the price I would pay for. I miss the affordability of Tamiya back then in japan...
Sorry for another long text but thanks again!!
If I make some interesting mods or attempts, I will definitely let you know on comments, or on my channel
I like you, Fil. Like me, you're in the unenviable, daunting task of removing SLOP from Tamiya vehicles!! This one seems to be a bad offender! 👎
Love the humor, and your solutions. There's no chance I could afford any new kits for a long time, but if I ever get one of these, I'll refer to this. 😊
Thanks brother, glad you're here to enjoy the sloppy ride! Haha! Gotta keep it fun, I mean, even a sloppy, frustrating day of RCing is a really good day, isn't it? Cheers pal! 🍻
@poorboysrc It is brother....
But getting the slop out is the most satisfying thing you can do, with your pants on!!
Have you checked to see if the issues plague the MB01 chassis. The BT01 is similar and looks like Tamiya just up scaled the parts. It may be a product of the upscaling caused some of the issues. Tamiya has upscale before with the M03 and the FF02. So there might be an issue
Yeah I had the same issues with my MB-01, only worse! Being a smaller wheelbase, it was even harder to drive than the BT-01. If you watch my MB-01 in Action video, you can see the car darting around. 🤦
Awesome breakdown bud!
Thanks brother! 👊🏼
Hey, the plastic suspension balls started with the TT01….the steel balls were an upgrade for the TT02 but work for the TT01. I have used them for all my TT01 and 02’s
I was close! 😉👊🏼
Numero uno!
Nice one!!
My man!!! 💪
Ah, the slop battle. I wonder how much will have to be done/modified, on top of your current mods, to make this thing track correctly. Cheers
It's the sloppiness of the sloppy, Mauzy! So sloppy, it hurts! 🤪
would TT-02 rear arms hubs etc fit?. would solidify the rear toe issues
That's a good question. I should try it out some time and see if they fit.
But at least she LOOKS good which is what really counts 😂. That orange is sickkkk!
Hahaha, thanks dude! She is a looker, isn't she? 😎
5:04 It looks like you need the shims, now.
I need to invest in a shim factory if I'm gonna keep buying these Tamiya road cars. 🤔
Have you tried a different radio? I find the same with my GT3B. It wanders and veers all over the place, it is not a low latency remote meaning response time is awful. Try a Radiolink RC4 or RC6, or Flysky GT5… game changing and still same price point as the GT3B!
I haven't, but that's an interesting suggestion. And it came at a good time, as I just acquired a Radiolink RC6 and I'm loving it!
@@poorboysrc try it on the BT01 and see how it fares. My bet is that it will improve it noticeably. Also, any slight tire rub on the body wheel wells will get you pulling in all sorts of unwanted directions. Check for that too. I’m building a BT01, first time I didn’t shim and then I took it all apart now I am shimming with 5mmx8mmx0.3mm shims. The a-arms need about 24 in total for the chassis. Also works for tt02 as well.
We have to remember that this is an entry level kit. Having said that i agree 100% with what your saying.. It should work out the box. There's always something wrong or badly designed with every tamiya. This one has just about everything wrong with it. Anyone thinking about buying one... DON'T. Mine will just sit on the shelf to look at. 😐😮💨
Yeah this chassis should at least drive straight-ish out of the box. Lol!
Nice to look at, pain in the butt to drive. 😉
Hey good effort at getting rid of the slop which did look really awful like you say. Those rods are reverse thread on one side so you won't get a metal end on unless you can find one that is also reverse thread. Rally tyres are better on the tarmac I find but in the wet it's probably still not going to be good. Maybe Tamiya has tried to make this too many things in one and it doesn't do any of them well. Stick with the tried and trusted ones that are only one configuration. Good stuff Fil 👍👍
Yeah the reverse thread didn't even click in until I started reading these messages... I was so frustrated by the chassis that I couldn't even think straight. Lol! 🤦
I'm laughing every time you show us the slop in this chassis. BT really means Beginners Time 😂
Your conclusion/rant was nicer than your TD4 which i thought were hilarious 😆
Haha you remember the TD4, do ya? Man, I was fuming at that one too, wasn't I? 🤣🤣🤣
@@poorboysrc yeah, when i found your chan i took a look at some old videos, but that TD4 rant was one of the best i have seen so far 😂
@@aviano72 haha that's too funny dude. I was SO excited to get my hands on the TD4. Then the RC Elf gifted it to the channel, which made it very special and amped up anticipation even more. Then the diff did its thing and I was just instantly 🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤣👍🏻
I picked up the same car. Was going to try changing out the rear arms and bearing carriers for TT02 parts (if they fit) to remove some of the slop. I don't plan to swap configuration that much, so I don't need two sets of steering knuckles on the car. Yeah racing make a number of aluminum parts for the car also. Might invest in the aluminum steering rack, but that's really the extend of the money I want to put into this car. It's just not worth it.
I've seen guys use TT02S parts for maximum slop-reduction. This seems to be the best bet, but still, why doesn't it just work out of the box? Like you said, not worth all the $$$. 👊🏼
I race TT-01E stock classes, and that things sloppy. Probably one of the most fun classes to race as well. This obsession with slop some people have is very odd, it seems its mostly an issue for people who want to do highspeed runs where going straight is the only requirement. On a track its not really a huge issue unless you're using a highspeed version, for which a 50$ chassis might not be the best thing to build on, especially if its stock. Remember these are like 80$ kits in Japan, just because you got an inflated import price, doesn't mean it was built to be that price in the country of origin, perhaps that's where the expectation of having ball bearings and all that in a supercheap kit comes from. It's like people in Europe who don't understand how a Dodge Viper or Corvette quality looks like it's been made in a chinese shoe factory, but costs supercar money, forgetting its cheap in the US, but gets price hiked once its brought over. -edit- spelling -edit-
I'm a huge Tamiya fan, and a little slop is to be expected. This platform is a different level though. And the smaller cousin, the MB-01 is even worse, due to the smaller wheelbase. They're very hard to drive. The driver spends 30% of the time correcting the car as it tracks where it wants to track, lol! 🤦
Super glue! Lol You did what you could.
Hahaha, where would we be without it? 😅
I shimmed up my TT-02 since the speed challenge, and it's a lot better. Maybe you just need to shim it more?
It needs a lot of shimming, and guys are using TT02S suspension arms and steering to get rid of the slop. That's a step I'm not willing to take, as it defeats the purpose of buying a new kit in the first place. I'm a stubborn old goat that way. Lol! 😂
I think they have a product that could cure your mossy crack. Lol hahaha
Hahaha Gold Bond for RC addicts! 😂
tighter ride. steel balls, I thought this was a family show?
🤣🤣🤣
Not sure what the kit is about, why not just use a stock TT-02? Anyways intresting how much you tried out on it, still dont get the point why tamiya released the BT-1 / MB-1 in this way, hopefully they come up with something better soon. A shame we are stuck with the low end TT-02.
I think the Tamiya designers engineered a masterpiece of versatility, and the cost of all that versatility was slop. At the end of the day, I think it was a fail. 😭
The machined turn buckle ends won’t screw on as one end of the turn buckle arm has a left hand thread.
I can't believe I didn't realize that at the time... I think I was so disappointed that my mind was just in negativity auto-pilot. 😕
Jesus Fil, I have my welding hemet down bussing away while listening to your video feeling every bit of that pain.
All be it with the Fox , but feeling the pain just the same. If you want to pass it on, I'll pick up the torch. Venmo you or something. I live for the Tamiya torture.
You sadistic son of a ..... 🤣🤣🤣
If you want it, it's yours dude! 👌
Damn iv still not run mine yet... on the steering arms u have them bolted in different holes so that maybe why its all over the place... im looking forward to running mine but i know ill want to mod it in some way to get rid of that slop 😂 good video man, i wonder if different rear arms would fit? 🤔
Yeah at about the 8:30 mark you can see the toe-links are mounted in different holes in the steering uprights. Thats going to make Ackerman all sorts of wonky.
Yeah I noticed that after I got home. My bad, that definitely didn't help things. 😕
Yeah I messed that one up, but the issue still persists on the opposite end of the car. It's still a slop-fest unfortunately. 😭
Jeeeez sooo much slop! Mine
Is getting more sloppy as I play with it, my suggestion would be maybe try the “high end” 5mm balls and “proper” ball ends that you find on the TRF racing models?
I considered it, but I think it's not going to be worth it. I'm holding my ground when I say that the car should at the very least, not crab walk right out of the box. 🤣
@@poorboysrc 100% agree, shouldnt be this sloppy. This is the reason i avoided the MB-01, I drove a friends model and it was wagging its back end on the straight….
BT-01 didnt look any better but I couldnt resist the FR layout 🤦🏻♂️
However I’m 100% sure if somebody wanted to put in the effort, regular c hub suspension from another model will work on this, eliminating the slop. I actually think Tamiya will release a version using TRF parts like an “S” version or something
@@rexrcs yeah buddy, in my MB-01 running video at the skate park, you can visibly see the rear end wagging back and forth like a fish! It's insane! BT-01 did the same thing, but it was a little better.
Hopefully someone sorts this out, I hate giving Tamiya (or any brand) a hard time on TH-cam, but it is what it is. A sloppy mess! 🤪
@@poorboysrc i wouldnt call it a hard time. A black kettle is black
Hi, thank you for trying to improve this chassis. I will simpy not buy it and probably sell the MB01 that I acquired too soon. I too love Tamiya and we can let go for 80's, maybe 90's car, but in 2020's, it's simply not possible. Ok ok, it's kinda the price to pay for the modularity, but I'm sure they can do better (let's remind each other that we're talking of a japanese brand...) 😢. They should focus on re-release that we are waiting since ages (Astute, King Cab, Falcon, other Group C, and so on...). Anyway, enough rant for today, thank you again for trying 🤝
Yeah the MB-01 suffers from the same issues, but being 1/12 scale, it seems even worse!
I like your thoughts... Tamiya, please give us the rere's that we all want! 🙏
Put foams on it, and rub spf 50 into the foams. It’ll make the foam sticky and stick to the road
Thanks for the tip, Thad! 👍🏻
How much slop do other manufacturers put in to there chassis.
Hard to say, it certainly varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and kit to kit. This is just an unusually high amount, and add that it's on an on-road chassis, which amplifies the effect.
The frustrating thing is that tmiya dont give a shit about complaints, they just do theor own thing. Even the new chinese manufacturers listen to customer feedback and update/fix issues pointed out.
Yeah buddy, you said it. I've reached put to them a million times now, and not heard back once. Kinda frustrating. 🤬
Great effort Fil, but as with the TD4 Tamiya obviously have not done a great job with the design of this one.
Which, when you think about it is pretty bad taking into account they have been doing this for nearly 50 years!
I know things are designed to keep within a budget, but these issues just seem like poorly thought out, and poorly executed engineering to me.
In this day and age we should not have to put this much extra time and expense into making something simply 'work' from new.... It's not even a case of upgrading, it's essential work just to achieve basic function, and that just takes the fun out of things.
The other thing that concerns me is just how much worse the slop will get as the plastic wears with repeated use..... If it's bad when new, it's guna be really bad once you've put a few miles on it!
Much as I like the concept of this chassis, I would never consider buying one.
That steering slop, and non adjustable steering is one of the reasons I would never buy a TTO2..... this thing seems even worse!
Don't get me wrong, I love Tamiya, but I generally stick to models from the first 100 for nostalgia purposes.....I know many of the original models had issues, but many of their earlier cars actually seem far more competent than much of their newer stuff straight out of the box!
The old TA02 on road chassis was a lot better than their recent on road platforms, the original Top Force is substantially better than the newer TD4 4WD Buggy etc etc.....
Sorry mate, going off on a bit of a rant here!
Please don't choose this chassis for this year's speed run challenge dude!
We all know that Mossy cracks get slippery when wet (ooh er! 😂)..... but even after all those modifications the amount of slop in that thing still looked pretty bad mate.
My Porsche 959 is from 1986,and doesn't have anywhere near that amount of slop, and as a result doesn't suffer with that colossal torque steer.
I'm adament that it would totally destroy these modern chassis in a race..... Just point and steer, it goes exactly where you tell it!
But, on a positive note, it's made for an interesting and entertaining video matey.
Question now is-
Do you just give up with this platform, or spend more time and money on it in the search to improve things? 🤔
Looking forward to seeing this one unfold bud!
Ps....... Just drive it in the rain then leave it still plugged in when you put it in the boot of your car.
With any luck it may just go up in flames! 🔥
Then, claim on your insurance, and buy another Midnight pumpkin, Monster Beetle, and Clod buster.
Problem solved!? 🤔 😉
👍 👍 👍
That is the solution of the year! Just let the thing burn, burn, BURN!!! Hahaha! 😂
But you're right, I'm certain your 40+ year old 959 would eat up the BT-01 on the track. I know we're comparing apples to oranges, but a 40 year old apple should never be able to beat a state of the art orange, should it? Aaah, I'm frustrated too pal.
I'm done messing with it. I draw the line in the sand when a kit will not even come close to driving straight, out of the box. It's a road car. It should drive straight(ish), shouldn't it?
I think Tamiya is getting too comfortable selling garbage that needs to go back to the design dep't. I LOVE modifying my RC's, but can't stomach having to spend more $$$, time, and guess work reinventing their new chassis' JUST to get them to drive straight. 🤬🤬🤬
Thanks Fil, not getting one of those! 🤓
It'll test your patience if you do! Lol! Best to spend the $$$ on a classic like a Lunchbox or something that works out of the box. 👍🏻
Thanks mate, I’ll be doing that. 👍
@@ericchristopher9037 good call dude. Have fun with whichever kit it is you pick up! 😉
I was looking for a new kit to build, and I still am, but it's not going to be this one😅🙈 nice vid tho bro. Keep it up
Thanks brother! Save your $$$ and get something that works. 👍🏻
I made my steering links with Traxxas parts for my tt02
Did it help much?
Someone needs to bring a stabiliser set out.
A "desloppify" kit and stabilizers would be a nice add-on! 👌
I hope you doing the same with the mb01.
Nah, I think they're both going up for sale. I don't have the patience to try and redesign them to make them go straight. 🤣
@@poorboysrc the idea was awesome I'm so upset that it's having such problems both of them they make for a more realistic package for what bodies they put on them day better figure out how to fix these problems and continue to make them cuz I'm sure they can fix them why they haven't tried they've ever made in the past they need to keep making them all including all the m chassis from m01 to mo8. Everybody ever made I would love to see the blazing star come back. Some things that may have not been popular in the past may become popular today because they eventually become missed. And if you can't sell them just send them to me. 😂
The chassis needs steel balls, the driver needs balls of steel 😅
Hahaha 100%! 🤣
More slop than a stock TT-01?? Is that possible.
I think the Tamiya slop dep't has been working overtime. 😂
Desloppification seems to be a negative Fil! I am sorry this kit has not worked out. It is a little worrying that some of the new Tamiya kits are missing the mark
Big negative there buddy! Too bad, as I had high hopes for this chassis. But fundamentally can't see why a buyer should have to re-engineer the whole car to make it drive straight. 🤯
Seems the suspension geometry is just bad. It's hard to tell from the video, but it seems there's nearly zero caster in the front end. Caster is crucial to the steering self centering with speed. The slop is definitely terrible, but many off - road cars have terrible slop yet handle good anyway because off road cars often have insane amounts of caster in the front end. Proper geometry will often negate most of the slop while the car is moving. Some toe in at the back and toe out at the front often cancels out most of the slop. The problem with these kits is they have no adjustment of that geometry available in the stock parts. Everything is zeroed which means the car handles terrible.
I have a couple of tt02 cars and though the suspension is mostly stock except for bearings and oil shocks I make them handle perfectly by removing the horrid tamiya servo saver (a small amount of slop there multiplies several times at the wheels). I also use about 55-60 percent expo on the steering channel. I also balance the wheels and tires which makes a huge difference. They run great and I can run full throttle straight with hands off the wheels and they go in a straight line and stay there.
That kit you have there looks like just a nasty design. Too bad Tamiya cocked this one up. Maybe trying to do too much with too little in one car. Maybe stick that nice body back on a trusty tt02 chassis and you'll have a runner.
cheers.
Great response, thanks for chiming in! There's actually quite a bit of caster in the front end, but it's still a slop-monster, which I believe is causing the lack of drivability.
I like your dedication to making your TT-02 drive straight. I'm not that dedicated... lol! To be fair, I'm not a big road car guy. I prefer my buggies, Monster Trucks and Rally cars. So I lack the patience and attention to make a road car (which, IMO should drive straight) drive straight. 😂
Thanks again for the great comment. 👍🏻
@@poorboysrc Yeah, agreed. it should be good out of the box as a kit build. No extra faffing should be necessary.
tks
Yea i was shocked at how loosie goosie everything was on my BT01. I drove it on the track once and that was enough. The rwd front motor configuration battery position is also laughable. She will be staying on the shelf.
Oh boy, I couldn't imagine it on a carpet track! It'd be all over the place! Haha! It was like trying to control a bag full of squirrels on the tarmac, I couldn't imagine a high grip track! 🤦
I think the whole configurable chassis gimmick wasn't a good move, jack of all trades master of none comes to mind. I would have preferred a dedicated front wheel drive and rear wheel drive chassis, but Tamiya does what Tamiya does.
You said it best! The Jack of all trades, master of none analogy fits the BT-01 chassis precisely! 👍🏻
The slop is shocking. It’s like a throw back to the early days. It’s not a fault it’s a feature hehe. So much ball cup slop and linkages in the steering. Slop in the hinge pins. I agree it doesn’t have to be that way. If it was a real car it would be defected and unsafe. Perhaps the cheapest mod from here is buying threaded rod and making all new steering using up your new rod ends. I’ve always been tempted to super glue up hinge pin holes and re drill for firmer fit. But never done it. I don’t see a win in the king pin ball joints. Just shocking
Yeah dude, it's bananas. I think the fault is really in the design. The multiple motor mounting positions and having identical steering components on both front and rear expose the chassis to slop. It's insane!
Its pretty poor to have all that, but a lot of people wont care. They will be new and just love skidding it about 😎 but its enough to put me off buying one. For now 😂
For now... Famous RC'er words... 🤣👊🏼
Cheap.set of tires and wheels from Amazon and some oil filled shocks may do wonders on that chassis. I know my tt02 handled the same way but those 2 items fixed it.
I agree, you spend the money on the kit and you should at least be able to drive in a straight line out of the box.
I didn't even mention the shocks in the video... The stock pogo sticks (in the rear) are completely bottomed out with the FR setup. I almost put on some oil shocks, but I wanted to keep the setup somewhat consistent between videos. 👍🏻
Well, we appreciate your effort anyway 😅
I went down swingin'! 😂
Tamiya want you to go all the way with upgrades, for steering and suspension and the end result is still disappointing. Maybe we should all buy Schumacher's and Associated cars instead😊😊😊. Still a fun hobby for sure, trying to get them to go in a straight line is frustrating for sure. Still working on that for sure. 😊😊😊😊😊
That's the thing, we all LOVE upgrading! But man, this BT-01 drives worse than my Nikko Lobo II from 1987! 😂😂😂
tamiyas work best when replaced with xrays before you put them on the track....
Hahaha, can't argue with that! 😆
Parts list?
Sorry dude! I copied and forgot to paste! Lol! - It's all there now. 👍🏻
@@poorboysrc Right on. And I understand.
Looks like its Dremel time and fix up the threads on the turn buckle or buy some new blue bling ones. Its quiet tedious to get rid of the slop in a Tamiya its a bit annoying.
I always found the slop kind of funny. Until now. The car darts here, there, everywhere! Wherever and whenever it wants. It's impossible to drive straight. 😤
@poorboysrc I wanted one until I seen this, I'm sure this is a fix but at what cost. Thanks for the video and we still love Tamiya but I hope they fix these issues.
I'm a big tamiya fan but that is unforgivable. Hopefully nobody buys them and they are forced to update/replace
Me too pal. I love the brand, I love the character cars. But these new models are really hit and miss.
Its strange how the bbx seems to have got everything right but this so wrong. There must be a new aprrentice they have let loose on this chassis 😂😂 Mine is deffo going on marketplace before I destroy it out of frustration.
BBX = Grand slam home run
Squash Van = Grand slam home run
BT-01 = Your ex wife calling asking for more $$$ after she already cleaned you out. 🤣🤣🤣
@@poorboysrc I've seen mixed to favourable reviews of the squash van but no one complain about the bbx yet. There might be a place for a squash at some point as I am missing a monster truck from the collection but I quite like the 6 wheel volvo dumper for that spot.
Yeah not ideal from Tamiya, i think you're right Fil, it's over engineered, too many options of layouts, whilst that's cool, it makes the car versatile, the sacrifices it has to make to accommodate that are too great. It probably should come with parts to make the rear end more normal with standard hubs to lock the rear toe though it'd make it a longer process to change your chassis layout
Yeah that's just it. It's sacrificing drivability for versatility. I like your idea of Tamiya adding some proper c-hubs, etc. to make the rear a little less sloppy, but alas, here we are... Sad days... 😭
Ted Theodore Logan
And Bill S. Preston, esquire! 🤣
@@poorboysrc excellent!
@@Xman1976 🎸 🎸 🎸
@poorboysrc doing the air guitar and can hear the sound!
@@Xman1976 hahaha perfect! 😆
Yes really a let down when out of the box it doesn't perform.
Absolutely! I think asking for a car to drive straight out of the box isn't too much to ask, is it?
@@poorboysrc No it is not. RC is about fun.
I've seen other drive this very well lol what gives?
They're not telling you the whole story. Deep down inside, they're fighting a winless fight against BT01 slop. It'll fester and eventually consume them until they jump ship and go to Banggood for the rest of their RC life. 🤣🤣🤣
What are tamiya playing at releasing a kit as poorly made as this. The tt02 was bad enough but this is another lever of shit
I wish I could tell ya, dude. I don't have the patience or tolerance to try and redesign the whole thing to make it drive straight. Pretty disappointing... 😤
A kyosho fazer mk2 chassis roller kit or the HPI E10 (which has the ability to position the motor in the rear or front) would be better in either chassis case instead of the Tamiya..
As a Fazer Mk2 owner, I can agree with this statement 100%! - It's a night and day difference. 👍🏻