No problem. It’s cool to get idea from guys. As I know some people with want to watch the videos. I have a list of videos I want to do but if no one wants to watch them it doesn’t make sense to make them lol. Thanks for watching!
Perhaps you can explain the purpose and result of tightening (adding pressure to) the stock AFC spring, what we should see as a result of doing just that. Also, the opposite, what happens as a result of loosening the spring. It appears that loosening it would add more fuel quicker? and tightening it would keep fuel from coming on as quickly? Just starting to work with my AFC and would like to know what to expect with using a lighter spring vs a middle weight spring (or more tension vs less tension on the stock spring)... is one better for towing/hauling vs straight power (meaning more fuel) out of the hole? The aftermarket springs are longer which allows more adjustment, so what would be the best approach with the lighter spring (using more tension?) vs using the middle weight spring (using less tension?). There is SOOOOO much information out there that is NOT really explained well, so I appreciate your taking the time to explain in the detail that you do. Keep up the good work!
The idea is to "tune" your AFC to provide the 'Optimum Fueling' for MAXIMUM available power possible, under ALL throttle conditions/positions with MINIMUM excess smoke, (i.e. a LIGHT 'haze'). This is where AFC Live REALLY shines as it allows infinitely adjustable settings [within] the AFC & P-pump's mechanical limits. Excess smoke is wasted money 💸💸💸
You mentioned you would use a regulator to adjust the afc on the truck. AFC live of sorts where would you set star wheel, smoke screw and what spring would you use? To then adjust the boost coming in with regulator. I have a adjustable little elbow that came with my rack plug and I thought of using it to fine tune.
LOVE your videos, real world stuff for us 12V guys. I replaced the "lipped" washer on the diaphram rod with a fender washer, but when looking at the diaphram rod travel the 2MM modified AFC foot did not touch the housing because the fender washer was bottomed on the housing, just in front of the star wheel. My question is: If the housing was relieved to allow the fender washer and diaphram rod to travel farther, towards the star wheel, would that help anything? If I remember correctly it looks like you could get maybe 3MM more foot travel. Retired machinist and Dad was heavy equipment mechanic so stuff like that is always possible to me if you are looking for more travel.
Hey Rob Great video brother Quick question, I purchased the afc live kit from PDD and they recommend to grid abt 1/8in off of the foot. Here is my question for you, if I add the rack plug do I still need to grid off the foot? Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👊🏻👍🏻
I recently did all the mods on my P-pump and its a dog on the bottom end but starts boosting and fueling around 2,300rpm! Question is do I turn in the " smoke screw " on the backside of the AFC housing to increase bottom end acceleration? Or do I loosen the star wheel and turn in the smoke screw?
@@jessiej3991 it's a combination of BOTH adjustments; however if you move the AFC housing, you will add or subtract pre-boost fueling which means you will then have to adjust the 'smoke screw' to get back to your previous pre-boost fuel setting.
I'm sorry for the potentially idiot question, but I really like the use of a regulator to get a starting point. HOwever, if you aren't at max travel at 30psig, do you adjust the smoke screw or the starwheel to get it there? I'd assume starwheel but idk for certain.
Where your star adjuster screw is, is that stock. That's were mine was. But I just purchased my truck and I'm trying to get rid of the blk smoke. I think they messed with that. Everything else seems stock. Tamper screws were not messed with just seems like the allen bolt was removed. Someone told me stock is in the middle for that star screw. Can you confirm?
Hi I did a 12 valve in 2000 F450 I use it for towing only It drives good i have good power on take off but when I'm in the highway I don't have top end power to pass another car.
Is there a way to delete the entire fuel heater unit and not just the heater element?? I’d like to do the modification to my new lift pump for my 94 12v with the comp cam spring...but I just don’t see the need for the whole white unit for the fuel heater...I know you need an additional spacer...
@@CUTTERUPROB thank you for responding!! If you don’t mind me asking... After I remove the pt’s heater unit....where does the spacer go?? On the block where the pre heater was at? I bought a new lift pump and the comp cam spring thx to your You tube video...so thank you!
Living in Denver Colorado, I’m always driving or pulling my camper over the Rocky’s/Continental divide. I understand the setup and would like to build my own regulator. Just need links to the valves that you use. I have already done the foot, rack plug and AFC spring. Thanks a bunch for the videos, it's not rocket science.
I want to install an aftermarket rack plug and grind my afc but I’m worried that I could get a stuck rack? How does a rack get stuck? Does running no fuel plate pose a greater risk? Could you go into some detail on this ? Thanks!
i think i got about 14.5 -14.9mm of travel out of my afc foot with all these mods. but an interesting thing happens when you try to tighten the afc spring. it doesn’t take much tension on the spring and then it coil binds a stock spring. with spring completly loose i got max travel of almost 15mm i i remember but it’s not much tension on the star wheel and it starts to limit travel. i was going to try a longer spring. never did it yet. i was also going to grind down the small ridge around the smoke screw ( on the inside of the afc diaphragm cover ) so the diaphragm could start further back to help control the bottom end once afc is bolted on full forward. have you ever measured your foot travel? be interesting what your getting
@@CUTTERUPROB would be cool to know exactly how far ahead the afc needs to be to not limit rack. i have heard once modified you can have it back some and not limit rack travel , which could help control low boost range/ no boost as with afc full forward you essentially move initial fuel/ smoke screw so far ahead it becomes useless especially big injectors. i would love to have a pump test bench. looking forward to the next vids. it’s simple but it’s also lots for guys to wrap there head around.
@COALSTANG ya i have to do some playing around with the pump and see. i would love to have a test bench but not in the cards right now. i guess i have some ore video ideas to work on lol
Thanks for sharing all the tips and tricks. The little stuff is as important as the major stuff.
Thank you for showing us this and pre-thank you for showing us the results with it on the truck while running
No problem. It’s cool to get idea from guys. As I know some people with want to watch the videos. I have a list of videos I want to do but if no one wants to watch them it doesn’t make sense to make them lol. Thanks for watching!
Great Stuff Rob.
A quick overview tutorial like that takes most of the unknowns away for us novice tuners.
Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Perhaps you can explain the purpose and result of tightening (adding pressure to) the stock AFC spring, what we should see as a result of doing just that. Also, the opposite, what happens as a result of loosening the spring. It appears that loosening it would add more fuel quicker? and tightening it would keep fuel from coming on as quickly?
Just starting to work with my AFC and would like to know what to expect with using a lighter spring vs a middle weight spring (or more tension vs less tension on the stock spring)... is one better for towing/hauling vs straight power (meaning more fuel) out of the hole? The aftermarket springs are longer which allows more adjustment, so what would be the best approach with the lighter spring (using more tension?) vs using the middle weight spring (using less tension?).
There is SOOOOO much information out there that is NOT really explained well, so I appreciate your taking the time to explain in the detail that you do. Keep up the good work!
i am going to do a tuning series just wait for the weather here to get nice first
The idea is to "tune" your AFC to provide the 'Optimum Fueling' for MAXIMUM available power possible, under ALL throttle conditions/positions with MINIMUM excess smoke, (i.e. a LIGHT 'haze'). This is where AFC Live REALLY shines as it allows infinitely adjustable settings [within] the AFC & P-pump's mechanical limits. Excess smoke is wasted money 💸💸💸
You mentioned you would use a regulator to adjust the afc on the truck. AFC live of sorts where would you set star wheel, smoke screw and what spring would you use? To then adjust the boost coming in with regulator. I have a adjustable little elbow that came with my rack plug and I thought of using it to fine tune.
I will be doing some videos on this soon. Stay tuned
Great stuff! Lot of different opinions on increasing boost levels on stock turbo, pinching the line or boost elbow. Would love to know your input/tips
I will do up a video on it this week
Hey Rob I got a question how long is the afc foot before you grind it down. Not the actual foot but the shaft you took 2mm off.
I am not sure to be honest I have never measured one
LOVE your videos, real world stuff for us 12V guys. I replaced the "lipped" washer on the diaphram rod with a fender washer, but when looking at the diaphram rod travel the 2MM modified AFC foot did not touch the housing because the fender washer was bottomed on the housing, just in front of the star wheel.
My question is: If the housing was relieved to allow the fender washer and diaphram rod to travel farther, towards the star wheel, would that help anything? If I remember correctly it looks like you could get maybe 3MM more foot travel. Retired machinist and Dad was heavy equipment mechanic so stuff like that is always possible to me if you are looking for more travel.
It depends on the travel you are getting now. But but most the time you don’t need the extra
What did you do to the fuel plate in this video
Hey Rob
Great video brother
Quick question, I purchased the afc live kit from PDD and they recommend to grid abt 1/8in off of the foot. Here is my question for you, if I add the rack plug do I still need to grid off the foot? Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👊🏻👍🏻
Yes you do with doing both there is no point.
@@CUTTERUPROB so you have to do both?
I recently did all the mods on my P-pump and its a dog on the bottom end but starts boosting and fueling around 2,300rpm! Question is do I turn in the " smoke screw " on the backside of the AFC housing to increase bottom end acceleration? Or do I loosen the star wheel and turn in the smoke screw?
you can do all of the above, also the afc housing can be move forwards
@@CUTTERUPROB Thanks for the reply Rob I'll try both and see if bottom end acceleration improves
@@jessiej3991 it's a combination of BOTH adjustments; however if you move the AFC housing, you will add or subtract pre-boost fueling which means you will then have to adjust the 'smoke screw' to get back to your previous pre-boost fuel setting.
I'm sorry for the potentially idiot question, but I really like the use of a regulator to get a starting point. HOwever, if you aren't at max travel at 30psig, do you adjust the smoke screw or the starwheel to get it there? I'd assume starwheel but idk for certain.
starwheels and or put a different afc spring in
How would u tune it for fuel economy? Do u want more fuel or less and should it really smoke
good fuel plate and afc tuning, i will good into that in the next couple months
Thanks i would really like to see right now im pushing 22mpg straight hwy and its hazes lightly when u accelerate
If the diaphragm leaking will it cause smoking
Could yes
Where your star adjuster screw is, is that stock. That's were mine was. But I just purchased my truck and I'm trying to get rid of the blk smoke. I think they messed with that. Everything else seems stock. Tamper screws were not messed with just seems like the allen bolt was removed. Someone told me stock is in the middle for that star screw. Can you confirm?
most of the time it's in the middle ish. just tighten it up and see wat happens
Hi I did a 12 valve in 2000 F450 I use it for towing only It drives good i have good power on take off but when I'm in the highway I don't have top end power to pass another car.
If it stock your likely running out of rpm and power
@@CUTTERUPROB What do you recommend for more power and top end
@@ricardorodriguez-se7tp 4k gsk
Do you grind the foot and cut the 2mm off, or is it one or the other?
This was just one of the spare ones I have.
Would any part of the AFC cause a no ldle or stop below 1300 rpms?
On a non modified pump no
If I’m adding a rack plug is it still a benefit to grind the AFC foot?
If you want full travel you need to do all of it
They work good together
Is there a way to delete the entire fuel heater unit and not just the heater element?? I’d like to do the modification to my new lift pump for my 94 12v with the comp cam spring...but I just don’t see the need for the whole white unit for the fuel heater...I know you need an additional spacer...
just pull it and add the spacer or cut the spacer on the heater. put fuel line from the tank right to the fuel pump
@@CUTTERUPROB thank you for responding!! If you don’t mind me asking...
After I remove the pt’s heater unit....where does the spacer go?? On the block where the pre heater was at? I bought a new lift pump and the comp cam spring thx to your You tube video...so thank you!
Behind the fuel pump on the block
Do you have a video on ur afc live type thing?
I have one coming
@@CUTTERUPROB would like to know i dont want to spend 600cad for a little box with a switch and dial lol
Living in Denver Colorado, I’m always driving or pulling my camper over the Rocky’s/Continental divide. I understand the setup and would like to build my own regulator. Just need links to the valves that you use. I have already done the foot, rack plug and AFC spring.
Thanks a bunch for the videos, it's not rocket science.
I want to install an aftermarket rack plug and grind my afc but I’m worried that I could get a stuck rack? How does a rack get stuck? Does running no fuel plate pose a greater risk?
Could you go into some detail on this ? Thanks!
the rack shouldn't get stuck unless you have issues in the pump,
@@CUTTERUPROB okay cool I’ll give it a shot! My pump is stock besides a #100 fuel plate and the afc adjusted some.
i think i got about 14.5 -14.9mm of travel out of my afc foot with all these mods. but an interesting thing happens when you try to tighten the afc spring. it doesn’t take much tension on the spring and then it coil binds a stock spring. with spring completly loose i got max travel of almost 15mm i i remember but it’s not much tension on the star wheel and it starts to limit travel. i was going to try a longer spring. never did it yet. i was also going to grind down the small ridge around the smoke screw ( on the inside of the afc diaphragm cover ) so the diaphragm could start further back to help control the bottom end once afc is bolted on full forward. have you ever measured your foot travel? be interesting what your getting
yep i have. i can't remember the numbers. i will be doing some advanced video later on. just doing basic stuff right now
@@CUTTERUPROB would be cool to know exactly how far ahead the afc needs to be to not limit rack. i have heard once modified you can have it back some and not limit rack travel , which could help control low boost range/ no boost as with afc full forward you essentially move initial fuel/ smoke screw so far ahead it becomes useless especially big injectors. i would love to have a pump test bench. looking forward to the next vids. it’s simple but it’s also lots for guys to wrap there head around.
@COALSTANG ya i have to do some playing around with the pump and see. i would love to have a test bench but not in the cards right now. i guess i have some ore video ideas to work on lol
My 97 12 valve does not have a line going to the afc
There should be. Unless someone gutted the afc
@@CUTTERUPROB Where does the other end of it go and is it supplied by pressure or vacuum