If you want to pick up any of the things used in the video here are the links: Toyota Metal Filter Housing: amzn.to/2JY7Lrf Tundra/Sequoia Replacement Filter Element: amzn.to/3jLahQ6 Toyota Filter Wrench: amzn.to/2XlD3eV MotivX Toyota Funnel: amzn.to/2Xof5zz Thank you for watching and please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven't already! Thank you!
Thanks for watching, thank you for the compliment, I try to make my videos short and to the point! Please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank you!
@@5MinuteFixit I don't recommend the metal filter housings as their quality is likely made in China and not up to the factory standards of the plastic OEM
Great video! - Another video I saw, guy Started by removing the main housing first, oil dumped down, replaced oring, reinstalled new filter and main housing, then removed the little cap and replaced the little o ring. I'd like to try that but not remove or replace the little cap and o ring. I figure if you don't remove the little cap you don't need to replace the oring. Second - Whaaaaat or why was that metal housing you replaced the plastic one with?
I honestly typically do it by removing the main housing and letting the oil pour down because it speeds up the process but on every third or forth change do the whole process to ensure the small o-ring is replaced as well. I replaced the plastic housing with a Toyota metal one because I like the more robust metal one (less chance of failure). If you are interested in picking up that housing I have it linked in the video description. Hopefully this helps! Thank you for watching and please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already. Also check out my other Toyota maintenance videos if you are interested! Thank you!
Good job. Brief and good video shots. Since re-installing the bulky skid plate is a little tricky with the spacers and long bolts, it would've been a more complete demo showing you're technique.
You can pre oil the filter and reinstall, holds about half quart- then make that half quart-your 1st to pour in , cut the bottom off and it'll screw into the opening, there's your funnel on the cheap
First of all, never use old oil as lubricant for the O-rings. Use new oil. 2nd before draining oil, remove oil cap on top so it can loosen up some air trapped inside and then drain oil from the bottom. 3rd, you forgot to mention the specs for wrench torque the caps.
You do not need to remove the skid plate. If you do it's a real pain in the butt to reposition it. Remove the 10 & 12 MM bolts, and lower the back with it's two hooks still in the core support. Unsure it's secure for the task, SHARP edges. You can support the bottom if you like. Get yourself a container with a handle to drain the filter. I have a 32 oz measuring container, works perfect.
I have done many canister oil changes on Toyotas. I have never been able to remove the center plug without the entire canister coming loose. It is a great idea, but fundamentally is a huge failure! I loose less oil on my Honda's with traditional filters. Additionally Honda has added design features under the vehicle to reduce oil loss when changing oil.
Many times I will remove the whole canister and skip the center plug step… once the canister is out then I remove the center cap and replace the o-ring. Thank you for watching!
Here is a link for the filter wrench and funnel! Thank you for watching! Toyota Filter Wrench: amzn.to/2XlD3eV MotivX Toyota Funnel: amzn.to/2Xof5zz *Amazon Affiliate Links*
Good video. Brief and to the point. Why mention the torque spec for the oil pan drainplug and not mention the torque specs for the oil filter cap? Oil filter cap = 18 ft.lbs. Oil filter cap drainbolt = 10 ft.lbs. Kudos for linking to the Motivx oil filter cap wrench. If you use that wrench and follow the torque specs then the plactic oil filter cap should last the life of the vehicle. That's my opinion but it's also the opinion of a certified Toyota mechanic on The Car Care Nut channel. Thumbs up...👍
Absolute perfect video bro! I didn't have to listen to you talk about your cat or how your kid got suspended from school or you make dumbass jokes that aren't even funny.. You were literally straught and to the point and I love that bro! You literally didn't talk about anything other than what the title of the video says.. Amazing man! I wish all the tutorial videos on TH-cam would be like that! People make videos and way over describe everything and completely go off topic talking about complete nonsense that nobody cares about or they make these quirky jokes that I'm sure nobody laughs at or finds entertaining, we just want to know how to change the oil and filter, that's it! Lol... Anyway, keep it up bro! Seriously was a PERFECT video bro and people should seriously take notes from this video and do something similar if you're gonna make a tutorial video like this.. We don't need all the added commentary or Jokes or story's or anything.. Straight and to the point bro and it's was just enought to where you don't get side tracked from what you're trying to accomplish.. Can't say enough good things about this bro! Thank you!
Thank you, I really appreciate all your kind words! I'm glad you like my short and to-the-point style of making how-to videos! When I'm looking on TH-cam for a how-to video for something I don't know how to do I look for ones shot similar to my style as well! Thanks again and be sure to check out my other how-to and Toyota maintenance videos as well!
NEVER do this! The metal cannister was not designed for this vehicle. You're asking for problems by removing the inner stem. If it's not activating correctly it will bypass the filter and you'll end up with pressure issues and/or engine codes. VVT won't like it if you affect pressure by causing a problem with the filter cannister. How do I know? It happened to me. If you've done this, immediately replace it with the plastic OEM part. Car Care Nut has a video going into more explanation on why this is a very bad idea.
For purposes of fuel economy specs have changed thru the years. The oil passages on newer engines are waaay smaller than 90s era trucks that use 10-30w. The fact that a few of these motors have made a million plus miles is remarkable.
@@cesarflores8450agree that 0w20 is fine but trust me the motor does not need it. Any idea what the CST is when the truck is cold at 80 degrees? Way thicker than you think. And the truck runs just fine. I run 5w30 in my 5.7 almost 300,000 miles now. Quieter for sure.
Don't watch any other video when your learning to change your tundra oil. This type of video is the most complete, Many others are inconsistent and don't offer your proper details and socket sizes. Why waist your time?
Thank you for the great compliment on the video and thank you for watching, I’m glad it was helpful! Please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank you!
The video is awesome, friend. Would you like to try our 6500K led headlight bulb? We wanna send it for you to try. Please check your email, hope to colla with you~
If you want to pick up any of the things used in the video here are the links:
Toyota Metal Filter Housing: amzn.to/2JY7Lrf
Tundra/Sequoia Replacement Filter Element: amzn.to/3jLahQ6
Toyota Filter Wrench: amzn.to/2XlD3eV
MotivX Toyota Funnel: amzn.to/2Xof5zz
Thank you for watching and please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven't already! Thank you!
perfect Video.. no life story, straight to the point, thanks.
Thanks for watching, thank you for the compliment, I try to make my videos short and to the point! Please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank you!
@@5MinuteFixit I don't recommend the metal filter housings as their quality is likely made in China and not up to the factory standards of the plastic OEM
I have a stock factory metal one from Toyota on my 2012 Sienna. Toyota does make them for some vehicles just make sure you have a genuine one.
You’re a hero for linking the product too
Thank you for watching! I’m glad it was helpful, please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank you!
perfect video, straightforward solution for the information i need to do the diy job! many thanks!
Thank you for watching! I’m glad it was helpful! Please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank you!
Great video! -
Another video I saw, guy Started by removing the main housing first, oil dumped down, replaced oring, reinstalled new filter and main housing, then removed the little cap and replaced the little o ring. I'd like to try that but not remove or replace the little cap and o ring. I figure if you don't remove the little cap you don't need to replace the oring. Second - Whaaaaat or why was that metal housing you replaced the plastic one with?
I honestly typically do it by removing the main housing and letting the oil pour down because it speeds up the process but on every third or forth change do the whole process to ensure the small o-ring is replaced as well. I replaced the plastic housing with a Toyota metal one because I like the more robust metal one (less chance of failure). If you are interested in picking up that housing I have it linked in the video description. Hopefully this helps! Thank you for watching and please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already. Also check out my other Toyota maintenance videos if you are interested! Thank you!
any leaks from re using the crushed washer? usually those have to be replaced
Maybe keep the skid plate off. Then start engine. Check for leaks. No leaks. Then install skid plate.
Nice job!
Thank you for watching!
Good job. Brief and good video shots. Since re-installing the bulky skid plate is a little tricky with the spacers and long bolts, it would've been a more complete demo showing you're technique.
Thanks for the input and for watching! I’m glad it was helpful!
Thank bro, for this video,outstanding work. Thank you so much... Wade Out..
Thank you for watching, I’m glad it was helpful! Please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank You!
You can pre oil the filter and reinstall, holds about half quart- then make that half quart-your 1st to pour in , cut the bottom off and it'll screw into the opening, there's your funnel on the cheap
Very informative video, thank you!
Thank you for watching, I’m glad it was helpful! Please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank you!
You lost me at 10mm… seriously I can’t find my 10mm
It’s always the 10mm!
i have multiple 1/4 & 3/8 drive deep & shallow socket 10mm and they’re still hard to find
Me and you both buddy
I had the same issue
First of all, never use old oil as lubricant for the O-rings. Use new oil. 2nd before draining oil, remove oil cap on top so it can loosen up some air trapped inside and then drain oil from the bottom. 3rd, you forgot to mention the specs for wrench torque the caps.
Appreciate it man!
Thank you for watching, I’m glad it was helpful! Please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank You!
You do not need to remove the skid plate. If you do it's a real pain in the butt to reposition it. Remove the 10 & 12 MM bolts, and lower the back with it's two hooks still in the core support. Unsure it's secure for the task, SHARP edges. You can support the bottom if you like. Get yourself a container with a handle to drain the filter. I have a 32 oz measuring container, works perfect.
hotter climates can use heavier weight oils. for added protection.
I have done many canister oil changes on Toyotas. I have never been able to remove the center plug without the entire canister coming loose. It is a great idea, but fundamentally is a huge failure! I loose less oil on my Honda's with traditional filters. Additionally Honda has added design features under the vehicle to reduce oil loss when changing oil.
Many times I will remove the whole canister and skip the center plug step… once the canister is out then I remove the center cap and replace the o-ring. Thank you for watching!
@@5MinuteFixit How do you remove the center plug when it is out? I am so afraid of breaking the plastic canister.
@@ilovetotri23 there is a metal OEM canister you can get to replace the plastic one.
The plastic filter housing is such a pain in the butt to remove it cracked on me and still couldn’t get it out
I need to change out my filer housing, but I do not need to change the oil. Is it ok to take out the filter without draining the oil? Thanks!
You can as long as you adjust oil level after replacing oil filter and having run the engine for a minute or so.
@@mexicano011 OK... I wasn't sure if too much oil would be released.
The filter housing wrench, can u leave us a link to it so we can buy it, thanks in advance.
Here is a link for the filter wrench and funnel! Thank you for watching!
Toyota Filter Wrench: amzn.to/2XlD3eV
MotivX Toyota Funnel: amzn.to/2Xof5zz
*Amazon Affiliate Links*
Good video. Brief and to the point.
Why mention the torque spec for the oil pan drainplug and not mention the torque specs for the oil filter cap?
Oil filter cap = 18 ft.lbs.
Oil filter cap drainbolt = 10 ft.lbs.
Kudos for linking to the Motivx oil filter cap wrench. If you use that wrench and follow the torque specs then the plactic oil filter cap should last the life of the vehicle. That's my opinion but it's also the opinion of a certified Toyota mechanic on The Car Care Nut channel.
Thumbs up...👍
Forgot show in this video to remove the center cylinder old housing and put in the metal one
Absolute perfect video bro! I didn't have to listen to you talk about your cat or how your kid got suspended from school or you make dumbass jokes that aren't even funny.. You were literally straught and to the point and I love that bro! You literally didn't talk about anything other than what the title of the video says.. Amazing man! I wish all the tutorial videos on TH-cam would be like that! People make videos and way over describe everything and completely go off topic talking about complete nonsense that nobody cares about or they make these quirky jokes that I'm sure nobody laughs at or finds entertaining, we just want to know how to change the oil and filter, that's it! Lol... Anyway, keep it up bro! Seriously was a PERFECT video bro and people should seriously take notes from this video and do something similar if you're gonna make a tutorial video like this.. We don't need all the added commentary or Jokes or story's or anything.. Straight and to the point bro and it's was just enought to where you don't get side tracked from what you're trying to accomplish.. Can't say enough good things about this bro! Thank you!
Thank you, I really appreciate all your kind words! I'm glad you like my short and to-the-point style of making how-to videos! When I'm looking on TH-cam for a how-to video for something I don't know how to do I look for ones shot similar to my style as well! Thanks again and be sure to check out my other how-to and Toyota maintenance videos as well!
I had to add 9 qts to get to the top mark.... never really paid attention until yesterday. 7.9 qts doesn't reach the top full mark.
Same. It actually shows in the manual 7.9 quarts without a filter, and 8.5 with the filter. I had to make sure too.
The plastic housing last over 500,000 miles I have one waste of money
Congratulations buddy….Where should we send the Cake & Flowers to?
Great
Thank you for watching, I’m glad it was helpful! Please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank You!
Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
You forgot how to reset oil life
0 bullshit 100% info
NEVER do this! The metal cannister was not designed for this vehicle. You're asking for problems by removing the inner stem. If it's not activating correctly it will bypass the filter and you'll end up with pressure issues and/or engine codes. VVT won't like it if you affect pressure by causing a problem with the filter cannister. How do I know? It happened to me. If you've done this, immediately replace it with the plastic OEM part. Car Care Nut has a video going into more explanation on why this is a very bad idea.
0w20 in a v8 seems weird
For purposes of fuel economy specs have changed thru the years.
The oil passages on newer engines are waaay smaller than 90s era trucks that use 10-30w. The fact that a few of these motors have made a million plus miles is remarkable.
@@cesarflores8450agree that 0w20 is fine but trust me the motor does not need it. Any idea what the CST is when the truck is cold at 80 degrees? Way thicker than you think. And the truck runs just fine. I run 5w30 in my 5.7 almost 300,000 miles now. Quieter for sure.
Don't watch any other video when your learning to change your tundra oil. This type of video is the most complete, Many others are inconsistent and don't offer your proper details and socket sizes. Why waist your time?
Thank you for the great compliment on the video and thank you for watching, I’m glad it was helpful! Please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank you!
Stupid skid plate Toyota makes simple things complicated
The video is awesome, friend. Would you like to try our 6500K led headlight bulb? We wanna send it for you to try. Please check your email, hope to colla with you~
I would like to try it in my Tundra!