12v Cummins Chinese made P7100 P-Pump Replica - Let's disassmble and compare to Bosch
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- After searching for information or reviews on one of these Chinese replica injection pumps and coming up with nothing I decided to do it myself. Bosch is no longer producing these pumps new so it's becoming more difficult to find one in good condition. You can buy a used one and send it out for rebuild but the cost is upwards of $3000 and the wait time and still have some parts inside that are being reused. I opted to try this out for around $1000 knowing that there is a risk of potential failure as with anything.
I decided to install 191 delivery valves and 4k governor springs while I had it apart. This video shows what I found inside and shows the different parts and some detail on disassembly.
Please if this video was helpful to you then let me know in the comments. It's always a treat to get a notification that someone watched and commented, even if you just want to tell us about your project I love to hear it.
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Bosch still makes the p7100 under mico brand in india. these 12 valve engines are still in production for off highway , marine & generetor application. New mico branded p7100 is around 700$ here.. they were made for on highway till 2011 and millions are on road because these engines are immortal.
Where can we get them from?
I would love to get one for $700.00 is there a website that you can point me to?
Id like to know this as well @jsharp1776
The difference with the do is the thickness of the shoulder above the fuel cuts. The 131s have a thick shoulder and the 191s have a little bit narrower shoulder resulting in how much fuel flows the the do. Hope that helps!! 🤘🏽
A video for the people. kudos for the very detailed break down of the part.
Wishing I waited on my ppump conversion 4 years ago, would have saved me a lot.
Careful on timing off the #1 barrel. I made my own tool for this. Normally, they are plug timed at 13 degrees.
Still watching your video but the differences on the DV’s. The flute volume and shoulder hight. Lol it’s wild that they send that with what essentially looks like a full cut. The stem I agree is for the spring, normally the stem is for a constant volume or pressure setup (I’d have to check my book for which) but it’s missing the rest of the valve system in the holder for that. The holder also looks like a strait shot .120 holder not the valved oem holder which is again wild lol. Depending on the cam if you benched that thing with full rack it should really displace a lot of fuel but have extremely poor control over start of injection and end of injection. Switching out to a shouldered dv is definitely going in the right direction :) awesome video.
Thanks for taking the time to do this video. I suspect you can use your dial indicator tool to measure maximum lift on the pump and compare that number to determine if this is a 160, 180 or 215 clone. That would be awesome information. Please add follow up videos as the months roll by to let us know how it is performing / working. Thanks!
Yes please!
Good review. I've been looking for feedback on these and yours is the first I found. I'd be genuinely curious to know how the hardness of the wear areas, like the camshaft and lifters inside the pump, compare to the Bosch originals. This would seem to be the main area where longevity could become a factor. Thanks for taking the time to go through this for everyone.
thank you for taking the time to film and being thorough!
I bought 2 5.9 12V Cummins for my projects out of TATA buses (Made in India) and I guise I have the same P pump on them. I will check mine out when I go back to my storage. I'm guising mine are the 180 version
What country are you in
i love all your work and explanations. I think i'll just keep on using the pump on my 1995 truck. Should be a 175, all new to me. Truck has 288000 miles, and runs ok. I plan on doing some modifcations.
Bro this is fascinating. This makes me contemplate doing a p pump in my planned Cummins excursion swap I'm about to start. Please give updates! Subscibed for more 😊
Great video thanks for all the info and details
Awesome video! Thank you
Awsome video i was looking at these pumps and really wondering on them looking foward to seeing how it runs
So far so good. 10k miles
Awesome video man thank you for your knowledge and energy.
What's up brotha. Love the videos keep em coming. Hope this pump lasts for you. loved the detail of this video I have a 06lbz duramax but I got to learn something new today!
Power driven diesel sells reducing bushings 3 for 9$ 44 cents.
The delivery valve cuts are how it gets more fuel. Full cut allow to most fuel inside that cylinders plunger bore, the more you cut steel away the more fuel can makeup the space the bore can collect.
I used to work for an oilfield company that would contract parts out to a Chinese Manufacturer . The Chinese would make parts to our spec , we would QC the parts ; 98% of them would pass , Hardness and metallurgy was the same as what US machined parts were.
I learned a lot.
very informative but if you do complete pump review its gonna be awesome! Housing, cam, plungers etc..
I wish I knew how to take it apart that far. I can't find any detailed videos of how to get the plungers and cam out.
@@BrandonWicknickIt is not that hard just needed few special tools
@@BrandonWicknick I have P pump apart now. Rack was stock and also sticky plungers. I'm also self educated.
Wish i knew if this had a 180 pump cam
Thanks for the review, and please follow up, or even get second opinions. A while back, I figured that someone had surely made a cheap clone by this point, or even a decent quality variant that doesn't cost over $2K. Then I saw these and have been wondering ever since, if they're ever going to be a better option for diesel hotrodders and pullers, over a 30 year old pump. They are becoming harder to find as time goes on, and core charges are expensive. I hate chinesium as much as the next guy, but if one of these can do the job well, maybe with a little 🇺🇸 or 🇨🇦 parts injection, that would really help a lot of people out.
Do not cut foot on afc , the stock one ones are no longer available, buy a power driven diesel foot that is already cut and if you do not like the results you can put stock one back in. You will never be able to get rid of idle haze wants cut
I thought the foot only limits max travel which wouldn't affect idle?
@BrandonWicknick the afc foot cutting just gives you more rack travel. More rack travel means the plunger started riding on the cam earlier and comes off later, effectively giving you a longer Injecrion event and more fuel.
You want to cut or remove .100-.120” off the barrel of the arm. This is the part that touches the inside of the AFC housing. And limits rack travel. You do not want to cut the foot. The foot helps control low boost fueling.
@@97F350Cummins oh yeah I know that. I'm just using the wrong terminology. I meant the barrel of the foot. No reason to mod the foot itself.
@MrDylman55 the plungers ride on the cam all the time same stroke every time all the rack does is limit fill time by turning the plunger
Awesome, this video is literally the only reference that I could find in all of the internet for these pumps. It’s been a few weeks, is it still running good? No issues?
My truck has some other issues and I run 100 percent wmo which doesn't make me the best test subject but so far no issues that are pump related. Thanks for watching.
Drift car tow rigs 👌🏽
Would you be able to tell me the measurement for the timing tool? How long is the extension you made I’m gonna use your idea and make my own timing kit aswell! Genius
Where did you get the fuel lines for a p pump to 24 valve?
On the AFC just swap the washers on the duaphram
Ive been looking at P swapping my 24v, thank you for this review. How has it been for the last 6 months? Any updates of note?
No failures yet. All good.
So where do you go about getting a Chinese p7100? Temu? Lol
Im planning a p pump swap for my ‘02 24v HO 6 speed. Its about to hit 100k miles and close to ‘broken in’ heh. Got the crazy carls kit and been piecing together a lot of stuff over the years for the time. I knew i wanted to p pump it 8 years ago when i bought from the org owner with 79,000 miles. But i told myself i wouldn’t tear into the motor and do anything to it till it had at least 100k on it first. Took 7-8 years to out 20k on it.
Is the Chinese pump worth it? From what i gathered from your over view im more curious now and want more i for. I mean…its just a pump.
Bosch is german, and germans do make nice quality mechanical things. But so do the Chinese, and they do it cheaper than the germans lol. Im not against getting one of these to build. Id defiantly would go thru it like you did and make it the way you want. More vids, install of it and test drives!!
I would like to know what number timing shims they used under flange of plungers..
Where is your AFC housing plumbed in for boost pressure on your 24v Cummins? I set my truck up. But for some reason it seems like it falls on its face after I hit the turbo, almost like it is out of fuel. I drilled a hole in my neck above the heater grid and plumbed it in there. But I am not sure where exactly it is supposed to go. I also just bought some 191 delivery valves for it as well. And have installed the 4k springs in the pump. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
So if I buy that Chinese pump without modifying anything, and install it directly in my ram, the truck will feel heavy, how much real horsepower do you think it can give, because according to eBay they are 215 hp pumps, I am interested in your opinion before buy it
@@CarlosMorales-zd6kh I haven't had tbag experience. What I show in the video is my only experience. I decided to verify and modify before installing. I think it would work OK without modification but I was not impressed at what I found inside the new pump (mismatched and possibly used parts)
Careful of taking the imitation pump to a bosch fuel injection service centre as they may be obliged to hang onto it as it is a copy.
You think it can handle 700 hp?
How has it been?
Why don't you try to use a threaded huck rivet the ones they use on semi truck it's just a suggestion for the side of the pump
Because I don't know what that is 😂😂😂 I don't work on semi trucks.
@@BrandonWicknick it's a threaded insert that you rivet in a hole where's theirs no thread but like I said it's just a suggestion
Oh yeah. I call that a rivnut. Never heard huck rivet. That's a good idea.
I have no idea what i'm looking at or about diesels.. but it's safe to assume this won't fit a PD130, right? 🤣
Interesting watch anyway
All you will need is an adapter plate.
well chinese pump cost $700 while oem bosch is $7k new
my question is how to determine hp on those chinese pumps since numbers on tag not accurate?
I really think they only manufacture one type of pump in I'd guess that it's the 160.
@@BrandonWicknick Thanks
@@BrandonWicknick That's what I was guessing
If they were made for TATA busses, they are 180's based on what I read about them and I can make sure once I order the special tools and take mine apart. I have two TATA 5.9's in my storage@@BrandonWicknick
@@jalo1739 did you ever confirm this?
Any update coming?
Nothing formal planned yet. So far so good. No issues.
What are these pumps a knock off of? 160?
I was not able to measure the cam so I cannot confirm however based on its performance in my truck I would guess 160.
@@BrandonWicknick ok. Thanks. My 160 makes enough power but I’m looking for a 180 or 215 to get rid of it the sticking plunger/ run ability issues I know will eventually come. Thanks.
But have you used this pump yet?….
Yes. Working well 20k miles later.
@@BrandonWicknickthat’s insane! Thanks!
@@BrandonWicknickwow, that's very impressive.
Final Answer?
Go Chinese?
No issues. I would buy again.
🤟🏽🤟🏽🤟🏽🤟🏽