These type of levelers are very nice. I have been using them for a few years now. I buy a similar version of them at my local woodworking store. Every work table and bench has them on so I can have the same height on all of them. Beats the heck out of trying to cut and shim legs to match the floor variation. I keep everything at the height of my MFT work table as I use a track saw for 99% of my cutting. Since I have a tile floor in my work shop I put felt pads on the bottom of each leveler to protect the tile. Keep the great ideas coming. You are a valuable resource to the woodworking community.
I've heard of these before and after seeing your demo, I'll definitely be ordering these for the miter station I'm prepping to build. Thanks much, boss~!!
I do the same thing but I build kickers out scrap plywood screw or glued to the floor and also on the toe kick frame then I remove the expensive levelers and re use them.
Excellent video! ...but how do you then attach the cabinet boxes to the toe kick?? I'm about to make my own kitchen cabinets and have decided this is the best way to build them as my floor is wavy, but I've read some people say not to attach the top and bottom at all, and just attach the top to the wall. Would definitely love your input.
Hi Sedge, can I ask you a question please? I'm building some cabinets myself for the sys-az drawers as you've done here and I can see that you've got your top and bottom pieces captured between the sides, I've also seen you say in other of your building videos that this is the better way to do this for strength. In the instructions that come with the sys-az with all the critical measurements on it shows the sides as sitting on top of the bottom which is how I've cut my own pieces. I also read on the FOG a few people saying that it would be better that way as the weight from all the systainers is then transferred on to the cabinet bottom rather than down onto the dominos joining the pieces. Do you think it matters too much either way? It obviously looks neater your way as you're covering the ends of the ply when viewed from the sides. Maybe a good idea for a little video! Thanks, Ian
I have always placed the tops and bottoms between the sides... this is due to shear strength...... I know the schematic shows it the opposite way and it drives me crazy..... there is no benefit to building this way....... but...if you have already cut your pieces to conforms to the schematic then go for it.... sounds like they are shop cabinets....
@@sedgetool OK thanks for the reply, I also realised it'll be easier to get that fixed inside measurement for the sys-az correct your way too rather than needing to add two times the width of the ply to it and hope it works out (in the UK plywood tends to vary a lot, it's hard to get decent stuff and is rarely the thickness it's meant to be!). Love all your videos on here and the official festool ones, much appreciated :)
resistance question here,, if you attach the levelers to the inner wood parts which are in turn just stapled to the main frame wouldn’t that put the pressure on them and not the frame itself?
Hey, Sedge. Met you over here in Cerritos College earlier this year with my little daughter (if you remember us).. Can you tell me again what plywood is the one you recommended or that you use for your kitchen cabinets. I am doing carcasses with maple faceframe faces. Oh, the way, I found here in California these old school wood shims will move with the earthquakes and mini tremors over time and travel a little. The lather more likely causing a much slower slipping.
@@sedgetool You have a new follower from Italy. I'm quite new to wood working and I've just bought some Festool stuff for my new shop (Kapex, Domino, ETS-EC, TS 55, OF 1400, CTL Midi). They asked me a LOT of money for my mother's apartment for a kitchen, bathroom cabinets, wardrobe, desks, etc. I've decided to INVEST some of those money in tools and build the furniture by myself thanks, also to your VERY instructive (and funny) videos. So thanks and keep on!
Hadn't thought of the TORX #30, great tip. I always just cut off one of those hex head wrenches and chucked it the drill to do the same thing. Be sharp, stay level 🤣🤣🤣
The levellers are great BUT if you use one wedge in combination with the levellers you can be faster with less effort. I always level one end from front to back with the levellers and then put a wedge in the middle of the opposite end and use it to level the whole base right to left - essentially creating a tripod or levelling like you would for a survey instrument. I then just turn all the other levellers down until they touch the ground. Works every time all long as the base is built well. You can check it after with a level and make some minor tweaks but it is really not necessary if the base is built solid and true.
@@sedgetool One thing - level the end on the high point (front to back first) first. You can also use a pry bar or folding wedges tif the space is tight
Good Question........ I have always cut carpet...but the way I would do it is apply some pressure to the toe kick to level...then as you place cabinets on top always verify... I hope this makes sense...
Definitely a step up from the standard way for US cabinets and better than having the base part of the cabinet. I still prefer the euro base systems and upper hanger rails. :)
Tip is, When adjusting feet on a long run is to do the corners first, get it level then drop the middle feet down. This way it is so much easier so you aren’t constantly having to micro adjust.
Sedge, very timely video. I was making on before the weekend. I will order leg levelers. How do you lift the cabinet to get the toe kick installed when alcove? Great instruction
Nice trick. I use those leveler in my shop. I got mines from L.V. for $7 each ouch! IMO Toe kicks are obsolete unless you wear size 13 shoes :P P.S. Kitchen Stove have no toe kick.
These type of levelers are very nice. I have been using them for a few years now. I buy a similar version of them at my local woodworking store. Every work table and bench has them on so I can have the same height on all of them. Beats the heck out of trying to cut and shim legs to match the floor variation. I keep everything at the height of my MFT work table as I use a track saw for 99% of my cutting. Since I have a tile floor in my work shop I put felt pads on the bottom of each leveler to protect the tile. Keep the great ideas coming. You are a valuable resource to the woodworking community.
Thanks Larry !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I've heard of these before and after seeing your demo, I'll definitely be ordering these for the miter station I'm prepping to build. Thanks much, boss~!!
glad I could Help !!!
I discovered those levelers when I was repurposing a cabinet that was my grandpa’s as an out-feed table. They are so easy!
For sure !!!
thanks for the excellent explanation sedge!
My pleasure!
I do the same thing but I build kickers out scrap plywood screw or glued to the floor and also on the toe kick frame then I remove the expensive levelers and re use them.
oh wow...cool process...
I used those on my rolling outfeed table! Worked perfectly to get it 1/16” below the sawstop.
very cool !!
Excellent video! ...but how do you then attach the cabinet boxes to the toe kick?? I'm about to make my own kitchen cabinets and have decided this is the best way to build them as my floor is wavy, but I've read some people say not to attach the top and bottom at all, and just attach the top to the wall. Would definitely love your input.
I level the kick and set the boxes on the kick..then I screw the box to the wall........
Hi Sedge, can I ask you a question please? I'm building some cabinets myself for the sys-az drawers as you've done here and I can see that you've got your top and bottom pieces captured between the sides, I've also seen you say in other of your building videos that this is the better way to do this for strength. In the instructions that come with the sys-az with all the critical measurements on it shows the sides as sitting on top of the bottom which is how I've cut my own pieces. I also read on the FOG a few people saying that it would be better that way as the weight from all the systainers is then transferred on to the cabinet bottom rather than down onto the dominos joining the pieces. Do you think it matters too much either way? It obviously looks neater your way as you're covering the ends of the ply when viewed from the sides. Maybe a good idea for a little video! Thanks, Ian
I have always placed the tops and bottoms between the sides... this is due to shear strength...... I know the schematic shows it the opposite way and it drives me crazy..... there is no benefit to building this way....... but...if you have already cut your pieces to conforms to the schematic then go for it.... sounds like they are shop cabinets....
@@sedgetool OK thanks for the reply, I also realised it'll be easier to get that fixed inside measurement for the sys-az correct your way too rather than needing to add two times the width of the ply to it and hope it works out (in the UK plywood tends to vary a lot, it's hard to get decent stuff and is rarely the thickness it's meant to be!). Love all your videos on here and the official festool ones, much appreciated :)
Larry, Curly, Moe, and Shim-stock... nyuck, nyuck, nyuck.🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
whooop..whooop...whooopp
Great stuff as usual. Thank you.
My pleasure! Thanks !!!
resistance question here,, if you attach the levelers to the inner wood parts which are in turn just stapled to the main frame wouldn’t that put the pressure on them and not the frame itself?
I have never had a failure .....
Yeah !!! Love um
Good video!
Thanks!!
I am building a 16' run for a bar . I hope I can find these to use .
cool
Hey, Sedge. Met you over here in Cerritos College earlier this year with my little daughter (if you remember us)..
Can you tell me again what plywood is the one you recommended or that you use for your kitchen cabinets. I am doing carcasses with maple faceframe faces. Oh, the way, I found here in California these old school wood shims will move with the earthquakes and mini tremors over time and travel a little. The lather more likely causing a much slower slipping.
I use Columbia Pure Bond
Thanks for sharing this link with me from your other video. What books do you recommend for cabinet building for beginners?
amzn.to/3WCEBRy
Thanks!
You bet!
@@sedgetool You have a new follower from Italy. I'm quite new to wood working and I've just bought some Festool stuff for my new shop (Kapex, Domino, ETS-EC, TS 55, OF 1400, CTL Midi).
They asked me a LOT of money for my mother's apartment for a kitchen, bathroom cabinets, wardrobe, desks, etc. I've decided to INVEST some of those money in tools and build the furniture by myself thanks, also to your VERY instructive (and funny) videos. So thanks and keep on!
Hadn't thought of the TORX #30, great tip. I always just cut off one of those hex head wrenches and chucked it the drill to do the same thing. Be sharp, stay level 🤣🤣🤣
Glad to help
The levellers are great BUT if you use one wedge in combination with the levellers you can be faster with less effort. I always level one end from front to back with the levellers and then put a wedge in the middle of the opposite end and use it to level the whole base right to left - essentially creating a tripod or levelling like you would for a survey instrument. I then just turn all the other levellers down until they touch the ground. Works every time all long as the base is built well. You can check it after with a level and make some minor tweaks but it is really not necessary if the base is built solid and true.
cool
@@sedgetool One thing - level the end on the high point (front to back first) first. You can also use a pry bar or folding wedges tif the space is tight
How would you go about fitting them onto carpet? If you don’t want to cut the carpet.
Good Question........ I have always cut carpet...but the way I would do it is apply some pressure to the toe kick to level...then as you place cabinets on top always verify... I hope this makes sense...
Definitely a step up from the standard way for US cabinets and better than having the base part of the cabinet. I still prefer the euro base systems and upper hanger rails. :)
Right on!
Tip is, When adjusting feet on a long run is to do the corners first, get it level then drop the middle feet down. This way it is so much easier so you aren’t constantly having to micro adjust.
cool
What do you do if levelling the toe kicks creates a gap at the front? 🤔
sometimes ...say in a house...I will scribe and laminate a 6mm veneer to the front
Put a trim board on the front of the toe kick
My garage floor drops 4 inches in 6 feet. Using your technique, I built a shelf to store items. Now my golf bag does not fall over.
Wow ... that is a heck of a drop..glad the technique worked ...Thanks !!!
Sedge, very timely video. I was making on before the weekend. I will order leg levelers. How do you lift the cabinet to get the toe kick installed when alcove? Great instruction
Thanks...Put the cabinet on the toekick
And if you have wood leg?
hmmmmmm
Nice trick. I use those leveler in my shop. I got mines from L.V. for $7 each ouch!
IMO Toe kicks are obsolete unless you wear size 13 shoes :P
P.S. Kitchen Stove have no toe kick.
Thanks for sharing!
#1: Laser line end to end.
Totally !!!