Thanks, I have an 07 Expedition EL, with same knocking sounds. I did this work, just like you advised and it went perfect! Solved the knocking sound and riding smooth. Thank you for the great video. I value my time and safety and you helped me conserve and protect both.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I've changed so many rear suspension parts that I thought was the problem, but wasn't and low and behold I saw your video. Thanks for helping me fix my vehicle.
Thank you for the video. Was able to swap my mounts last night in my 07 EL. Had the luxury of a lift. One thing I was told to do is apply heat to the bolts to loosen the lock tight. It helped a lot when taking them out. This is one hell of a shoulder workout.
Great video I have been getting a noise going over bumps by the right rear door looked underneath and sure as shit mounts are gone. NASA can put a man on the moon but we can’t make rubber to last 10 years.
Watched this video and few years ago. Ordered 2 of the 4 mounts needed. Stuck those in a cabinet. Forgot and rattled down the road since. Doing rear brake job today decided to tackle the 2 I had. Thanks for this video man. A+ So helpful. Lifting the body was pretty sketchy. Don't try this at home moment that I tried at home. Drivers side done. Now to track down 2 more mounts and repeat on the other side. Can't rush into these things. Had some pop noise on the rear drivers side. Hopefully it wasn't some critical component and rather something adjusting itself to its proper elevated height once more.
I thank you so much for your help, I own a Ford Expedition El 2007.I changed all the links,but I still feel something it’s wrong. You save me , thanks again.
Yeah....I was replacing the sway bar bushings and links (because of a sound when going over rough road) and saw all the missing rubber on these mounts....used the impact I was holding on the rear left mount and......well, just like you said!! Now I have a bigger project. Nice video!
Thx to Mike for the excellent video. I did my 08 Limited Expedition; my center mounts were crumbling just like Mike's; the others were good. BASF made the Ford OEM ones that crumbled. It took about 4 hours. I would like to additional points: First un-clip the rear vinyl bumper cover from below. I did not do mine and jacking up the body from the frame stretched and broke them. Second I loosened all 10 bolts by hand. It made it easy the get the separation to do the job.
Hey William, what do you mean by "un-clip the rear vinyl bumper cover from below"? I have been looking at my expedition rear bumper cover but I don't know what I was looking for. I'd appreciate any feedback.
@William, I just watched another video about '08 Ford Expedition rear bumper cover removal and I figured out what you meant. There are 2 plastic retainers (one on each side) that attach the bumper cover to the SUV frame.
@@richnardone there is no "full set" for these mounts. Since each piece has a different part number, you either have to buy generic mounts (Dorman 924-064, you need four of these, one for each position (middle of cabin)) or you have to buy the ford OEM mounts at the dealership or on eBay.. I went with OEM and bought some on ebay and some at my local dealership. I can provide you with the parts numbers you'll need, as soon as I get home tonight
Thanks bro it’s really helped a lot. I was afraid my mechanic just told me that he might be needing to cut some body parts to reach to the nuts on the other side
Your video definitely helps. Took your advice and didn't use an impact, but still managed to break the clips and had to drill some two and half inch holes to get to the nuts. I've been a Ford guy my whole life, but what a crappy design. But anyways... thanks for the video definitely got me going in the right direction.
Excellent video even 4 yrs later so no need to update the video , just did my 2009 short wheel base with a 5.4l and just a couple of key notes to ad even though seems like everyone has covered most of them in different posts . Kinda of a pain but do this job by hand , those factory bolts are covered in blue loctite so I had to work mine back and forth . Mine were in great shape with no rust , if you break those captive nut plates off your in for a good time .do one side at a time but I still loosened the opposite side some , take all the bolts out on the side your doing tried to just loosen the front mount by the radiator but it still got pretty tight while lifting, undo you rear bumper cover tabs underneath or you’ll rip those off , the driver side does have the e brake cables which are kinda in the way but not bad , also had to keep and eye on my engine fan blade from hitting the bottom shroud , the bottom shroud is removable if needed but I didn’t have to .I did the position 3 and 4 mounts they are position specific with different parts numbers and purchased them thru my local dealer because I get a good discount thru work and they weren’t any cheaper online , the parts stores list a Dorman mount for position 1 which is at the radiator, some people have used these instead and seems like they work I don’t know , I bought the factory mounts for only a few bucks more with my discount and I wanted what came on the truck , it did cure my rear thumping noise when hitting bumps that I had
great tutorial, lowering tire pressure can also get you a little extra clearance to fit mounts, if no more juice is left in jack, and rubber (bushings too) is the best damper more than PE but has its limits,while its easy and cheap to replace at 5 years ...
Thank you I could not figure out why I had this knocking sound on the front end. I replaced everything shock all around, sway bar end links, engine mounts and new rotors and pads all 4 corners. I still was having a knock or clicking sound. I found it the body mounts are shit on the front end on my 2010 Ford Expedition Limited 2wd. Thanks again
What brand did you use? Did you use rubber or silicone body mounts? I'm hearing rubber is softer. Make a ride better, silicone is more for performance feels of the road. I'm working on a ford 2010 e 250 xlt Conversion Van Thank you george.
I have an older 96 explorer. It looks very similar. The body mounts are made of rubber donuts. They are still fine. Problem is some lower washers rusted out. They are even rusty from Florida. Can't win :lol:. Rubberized undercoat is terrible in the salt belt. Good way to rot a frame out.
Hey, great video, really helping me out. Ran into an issue where the body mount hole in front of rear wheel is smaller than the one between the doors my like a quarter inch. Thought these both were the same part #’s am i missing something? First one slipped in fine and snug, this one won’t get in the bloody hole!
Were they making noise or what made you do all this work? Mine don’t look too healthy visually but other than looks everything rides great, great video btw
Would you say that this this is also causing some noise when i hit potholes and bumps? I have my upper control arms checked and dealer says they are okay. But i have been hearing some noise and i'm looking at my suspension being the culprit since i also have 24" wheels and tires.
It is a very common problem as these mounts don't last very long. They are really easy to inspect, just climb underneath and take a look and see if there's anything left or just a space between the frame and the body.
Great video man. I’m replacing the two rear ones that are in front of the back tire. Without using the numeric gun the screw free spins and won’t go out. Any ideas on how I can get that sucker out? Tanks.
Hello all, my front bushings are destroyed as well. The one behind the front wheel with 2 screws attaching onto the frame. Its a different insulator, does anyone know how to approach that?
Oh man that sucks! Honestly I have not had to do this before. You might want to try contacting a body shop and see what they recommend. I hate to say it but I think the only way is to cut the floor. But don't quote me on that. Good luck!
@@thelimogarage9665 Ok...got it out! Had to cut the floor as stated not bad. Remember left loosey righty tighty! Tightened instead of loosened with a cheater pipe and it broke. Lol. Great video and thank you so much for showing us all how to do this. There is one more body bushing/spacer under the front bumper, if you loosen it, it makes the one under driver door easier to lift and replace. You are the man! Oh and the local junk yard saved the day...pulled bolt off a Lincoln Navigator.
Awesome good job man. Thank you for sharing this, a lot of people have been asking the same question. Hopefully this helps someone who runs into the same situation.
@@thelimogarage9665 No problem. Used a jig saw with blade made to cut metal. Gave me a very clean cut. Peeled back the thin secondary floor , bent the metal holder that was holding the bolt in place and removed the nut with the broken bolt. Used a oval hole that was already in the floor to hold the floor panel in place to start my cut.
You got it done, but the mounts used are technically for position #1 which is the front mounts next to the radiator and have the inner sleeve sticking down causing the body to need to raised higher. The mounts for locations 3 and 4 which you replaced have 2 different part numbers for the upper part and are only available as OE parts, not aftermarket. Obviously you got the job done and made it work, but the job would be easier with the correct parts and the cost is virtually the same.
@@thelimogarage9665 The only body mount currently/past available from Napa and other aftermarket part sellers for this vehicle is Part# NOE6504221 (Dorman P/N 924-064) which includes the upper and lower pieces and are for body position #1 which is the front most mounts next to the radiator. There are (5) mount positions on these vehicles. You replaced positions #3 and #4 and loosened #2 and #5. The mounts are similar, but not the same. There are (7) part numbers required to replace the upper/lower parts for the (5) positions. The position 3 and 4 upper are different part numbers and unique to that position. The position 3 lower is shared with the position 1 lower. The position 4 lower is unique and not shared with any other position. As I stated before, you got the job done, but didn't use the position specific parts which made the job slightly harder. The hardest part being getting the old bolts out. Your video has helped a lot of people.
@@thelimogarage9665 Are these them ? www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP6504221?partTypeName=Frame+Mount+Kit&keywordInput=body+mount or these I think are the same shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-oe-solutions-front-body-mount-924-064/11197462-P Thanks in adavance. Mike
I’m going to be replacing the same ones tomorrow on both sides. I did not see you do it in your video but did you have to remove the bolt all the way at front of the car near the radiator ? To be able to jack the body up high enough without damaging or twisting the body. On other thing, did you loosen the bolts on the driver side prior to working on the passenger side or were they tight since you replaced them the day before ?
@@michaelsa892 It was fairly easy to do. You have to use all hand tools. When you do it, you need to remove all the bolts from the front to the back on the side your working on. Use a heavy duty jack with 2x4 pieces that are about 2 feet long to jack up the truck body. Only lift the body high enough to remove the old body mounts. If you place the jack with the 2x4’s on top of it in front of the body mount before the rear tire you should be able to do all of them on that side. That’s what I did and it worked perfectly. I got my body mounts from Ford and they were about 30 dollars or so each. Make sure you have the parking break on. You will need to find the torque specs for them online. Word of advice when tightening the bolts to the proper torque, go nice and slow or else you will break the bolt. I’m not a mechanic and I’m telling you what I did. Please be safe when doing it and if you can have someone with you that would be best. I had my dad watching me in case something were to have happened.. Be safe ....
@@joecapobianco7166 hey thanks for the quick response I’m heading to the Ford dealership tomorrow morning going to try real hard not to buy a new f150 that I saw online today 😂
All of the center mounts are the same. The only mounts that are different are the ones under the radiator support and I believe the very rear of the vehicle.
How many of you have change the body mounts of their expeditions ? And how long do these insulators last 4yrs-9yrs ? Does the road & weather condition affect on them ? Thanks
Yes, road and weather can affect. My 2000 Ford expedition needs the body mounts to be change. I have a clicking noise in the right floor when turning to the left in corners.
I've got a 2015 navigator that has one front wheel sticking out about 3/4 inch farther than the other. I've checked suspension, wheel offset, pretty much any other component and nothing is wrong. Since you have experience with the body/frame lifting, any chance you think my body is slightly offset on the frame?
![[Live สด] การออกรางวัลสลากกินแบ่งรัฐบาล งวดวันที่ 16 พฤศจิกายน 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wPd7VFfWHIA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks, I have an 07 Expedition EL, with same knocking sounds. I did this work, just like you advised and it went perfect! Solved the knocking sound and riding smooth. Thank you for the great video. I value my time and safety and you helped me conserve and protect both.
That's awesome 👍😎 Stay safe. Thank you 😊
which ones did you replace and where did you get them? i'm having a hard time finding the rear bushings in stock ("position 5" i believe)
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I've changed so many rear suspension parts that I thought was the problem, but wasn't and low and behold I saw your video. Thanks for helping me fix my vehicle.
Thank you for the video. Was able to swap my mounts last night in my 07 EL. Had the luxury of a lift. One thing I was told to do is apply heat to the bolts to loosen the lock tight. It helped a lot when taking them out. This is one hell of a shoulder workout.
Thank's for your Help i see that 7 mechanics did not like your video, Very helpful video for me.
Can't please everyone. I'm glad my video helped you.
Great video I have been getting a noise going over bumps by the right rear door looked underneath and sure as shit mounts are gone. NASA can put a man on the moon but we can’t make rubber to last 10 years.
Watched this video and few years ago. Ordered 2 of the 4 mounts needed. Stuck those in a cabinet. Forgot and rattled down the road since. Doing rear brake job today decided to tackle the 2 I had. Thanks for this video man. A+ So helpful. Lifting the body was pretty sketchy. Don't try this at home moment that I tried at home. Drivers side done. Now to track down 2 more mounts and repeat on the other side. Can't rush into these things. Had some pop noise on the rear drivers side. Hopefully it wasn't some critical component and rather something adjusting itself to its proper elevated height once more.
I thank you so much for your help, I own a Ford Expedition El 2007.I changed all the links,but I still feel something it’s wrong. You save me , thanks again.
I did save as advised by 2 shops. Nope. Did this and bingo, smooth ride. His old parts look just like mine. My truck is 2007 Expedition EL. So happy.
Yeah....I was replacing the sway bar bushings and links (because of a sound when going over rough road) and saw all the missing rubber on these mounts....used the impact I was holding on the rear left mount and......well, just like you said!! Now I have a bigger project. Nice video!
Thx to Mike for the excellent video. I did my 08 Limited Expedition; my center mounts were crumbling just like Mike's; the others were good. BASF made the Ford OEM ones that crumbled. It took about 4 hours.
I would like to additional points: First un-clip the rear vinyl bumper cover from below. I did not do mine and jacking up the body from the frame stretched and broke them. Second I loosened all 10 bolts by hand. It made it easy the get the separation to do the job.
Hey William, what do you mean by "un-clip the rear vinyl bumper cover from below"? I have been looking at my expedition rear bumper cover but I don't know what I was looking for. I'd appreciate any feedback.
@William, I just watched another video about '08 Ford Expedition rear bumper cover removal and I figured out what you meant. There are 2 plastic retainers (one on each side) that attach the bumper cover to the SUV frame.
@@AM-bl4dm where did you find the mounts? Having a hard time finding a full set. Where did you buy them?
@@richnardone there is no "full set" for these mounts. Since each piece has a different part number, you either have to buy generic mounts (Dorman 924-064, you need four of these, one for each position (middle of cabin)) or you have to buy the ford OEM mounts at the dealership or on eBay.. I went with OEM and bought some on ebay and some at my local dealership. I can provide you with the parts numbers you'll need, as soon as I get home tonight
Thanks bro it’s really helped a lot. I was afraid my mechanic just told me that he might be needing to cut some body parts to reach to the nuts on the other side
Your video definitely helps. Took your advice and didn't use an impact, but still managed to break the clips and had to drill some two and half inch holes to get to the nuts. I've been a Ford guy my whole life, but what a crappy design. But anyways... thanks for the video definitely got me going in the right direction.
Thanks bro, I was searching for such video, Great work,Great Photage. Crystal clear
Awesome video......thanks to this video, my rough riding days are gone
Excellent video even 4 yrs later so no need to update the video , just did my 2009 short wheel base with a 5.4l and just a couple of key notes to ad even though seems like everyone has covered most of them in different posts . Kinda of a pain but do this job by hand , those factory bolts are covered in blue loctite so I had to work mine back and forth . Mine were in great shape with no rust , if you break those captive nut plates off your in for a good time .do one side at a time but I still loosened the opposite side some , take all the bolts out on the side your doing tried to just loosen the front mount by the radiator but it still got pretty tight while lifting, undo you rear bumper cover tabs underneath or you’ll rip those off , the driver side does have the e brake cables which are kinda in the way but not bad , also had to keep and eye on my engine fan blade from hitting the bottom shroud , the bottom shroud is removable if needed but I didn’t have to .I did the position 3 and 4 mounts they are position specific with different parts numbers and purchased them thru my local dealer because I get a good discount thru work and they weren’t any cheaper online , the parts stores list a Dorman mount for position 1 which is at the radiator, some people have used these instead and seems like they work I don’t know , I bought the factory mounts for only a few bucks more with my discount and I wanted what came on the truck , it did cure my rear thumping noise when hitting bumps that I had
I will trust this brother as my mechanic because he’s honest 🙏🙏
Great Video ✅ Prepping to change out mounts. Thank you for this Vide 🤠🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Paul, husband…😀
Excellent Video and Explanation. Thanks
Like the way you explain as you work, thanks !!!
great tutorial, lowering tire pressure can also get you a little extra clearance to fit mounts, if no more juice is left in jack, and rubber (bushings too) is the best damper more than PE but has its limits,while its easy and cheap to replace at 5 years ...
Great video. I love the narration. Good job!!
Thank you I could not figure out why I had this knocking sound on the front end. I replaced everything shock all around, sway bar end links, engine mounts and new rotors and pads all 4 corners. I still was having a knock or clicking sound. I found it the body mounts are shit on the front end on my 2010 Ford Expedition Limited 2wd. Thanks again
You are very welcome 😊
What brand did you use? Did you use rubber or silicone body mounts? I'm hearing rubber is softer. Make a ride better, silicone is more for performance feels of the road. I'm working on a ford 2010 e 250 xlt Conversion Van Thank you george.
Good info, on my '15 model I had to heat the bolts to loosen the loctite
I have an older 96 explorer. It looks very similar. The body mounts are made of rubber donuts. They are still fine. Problem is some lower washers rusted out. They are even rusty from Florida. Can't win :lol:. Rubberized undercoat is terrible in the salt belt. Good way to rot a frame out.
Excellent video thank you sir
Your welcome
Hi loved the video! Can you tell me how you figured out the position of the outside needing replacement?
Hey, great video, really helping me out. Ran into an issue where the body mount hole in front of rear wheel is smaller than the one between the doors my like a quarter inch. Thought these both were the same part #’s am i missing something?
First one slipped in fine and snug, this one won’t get in the bloody hole!
Many thanks for a great video!
Were they making noise or what made you do all this work? Mine don’t look too healthy visually but other than looks everything rides great, great video btw
No noise, just looked really bad.
Getting ready to replace my inboard mounts on my 08 XLT. How are the Dorman mounts holding up after 6 years? Do you think they'll outlast the OEM's?
Did you also remove the radiator core mounts also looking at the underside there are I think 4 mounts on each side
“You’re awesome Brother!”
Thank you!
"I'm gonna give it just one more pump and see what happens."...... Words to live by. 🤣
front bolt 18mm; others 15mm - Are the two small nuts and bolts on the front mount not necessary to remove?
Would you say that this this is also causing some noise when i hit potholes and bumps? I have my upper control arms checked and dealer says they are okay. But i have been hearing some noise and i'm looking at my suspension being the culprit since i also have 24" wheels and tires.
It is a very common problem as these mounts don't last very long. They are really easy to inspect, just climb underneath and take a look and see if there's anything left or just a space between the frame and the body.
Great video man. I’m replacing the two rear ones that are in front of the back tire. Without using the numeric gun the screw free spins and won’t go out. Any ideas on how I can get that sucker out?
Tanks.
pneumatic*
Unfortunately I have not had to deal with that situation yet.
Hello all, my front bushings are destroyed as well. The one behind the front wheel with 2 screws attaching onto the frame. Its a different insulator, does anyone know how to approach that?
Broke a mount bolt under the drivers side passengers door any suggestions how to get the rest out? I do not see any access under the carpet
Oh man that sucks! Honestly I have not had to do this before. You might want to try contacting a body shop and see what they recommend. I hate to say it but I think the only way is to cut the floor. But don't quote me on that.
Good luck!
@@thelimogarage9665 Ok...got it out! Had to cut the floor as stated not bad. Remember left loosey righty tighty! Tightened instead of loosened with a cheater pipe and it broke. Lol. Great video and thank you so much for showing us all how to do this. There is one more body bushing/spacer under the front bumper, if you loosen it, it makes the one under driver door easier to lift and replace. You are the man! Oh and the local junk yard saved the day...pulled bolt off a Lincoln Navigator.
Awesome good job man. Thank you for sharing this, a lot of people have been asking the same question. Hopefully this helps someone who runs into the same situation.
@@thelimogarage9665 No problem. Used a jig saw with blade made to cut metal. Gave me a very clean cut. Peeled back the thin secondary floor , bent the metal holder that was holding the bolt in place and removed the nut with the broken bolt. Used a oval hole that was already in the floor to hold the floor panel in place to start my cut.
You got it done, but the mounts used are technically for position #1 which is the front mounts next to the radiator and have the inner sleeve sticking down causing the body to need to raised higher. The mounts for locations 3 and 4 which you replaced have 2 different part numbers for the upper part and are only available as OE parts, not aftermarket. Obviously you got the job done and made it work, but the job would be easier with the correct parts and the cost is virtually the same.
The parts I used were correct. They came with the top and bottom sections from Napa.
@@thelimogarage9665
The only body mount currently/past available from Napa and other aftermarket part sellers for this vehicle is Part# NOE6504221 (Dorman P/N 924-064) which includes the upper and lower pieces and are for body position #1 which is the front most mounts next to the radiator. There are (5) mount positions on these vehicles. You replaced positions #3 and #4 and loosened #2 and #5. The mounts are similar, but not the same. There are (7) part numbers required to replace the upper/lower parts for the (5) positions. The position 3 and 4 upper are different part numbers and unique to that position. The position 3 lower is shared with the position 1 lower. The position 4 lower is unique and not shared with any other position. As I stated before, you got the job done, but didn't use the position specific parts which made the job slightly harder. The hardest part being getting the old bolts out. Your video has helped a lot of people.
Do you have all the parts numbers?
Hi Thanks for the Video 👍, where I can by the mount? in good price & quality?
I bought the mounts from Napa.
@@thelimogarage9665 Thanks
@@thelimogarage9665 Are these them ? www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP6504221?partTypeName=Frame+Mount+Kit&keywordInput=body+mount or these I think are the same shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-oe-solutions-front-body-mount-924-064/11197462-P Thanks in adavance. Mike
Do you know where I can find body mounts for a 2004 expedition Eddie Bauer 5.4L?
Did you use the same part for each one?
Yes, for the ones that I replaced they are all the same part number.
I’m going to be replacing the same ones tomorrow on both sides. I did not see you do it in your video but did you have to remove the bolt all the way at front of the car near the radiator ? To be able to jack the body up high enough without damaging or twisting the body. On other thing, did you loosen the bolts on the driver side prior to working on the passenger side or were they tight since you replaced them the day before ?
I think I removed the front bolt. It was a while ago so I don't remember. You don't have to loosen one side when doing the other side.
Thank you for your reply. I will let you know how it go’s tomorrow.. 👍
@@joecapobianco7166 I’m getting ready to do this myself how did it go and where did you get the mounts from
@@michaelsa892 It was fairly easy to do. You have to use all hand tools. When you do it, you need to remove all the bolts from the front to the back on the side your working on. Use a heavy duty jack with 2x4 pieces that are about 2 feet long to jack up the truck body. Only lift the body high enough to remove the old body mounts. If you place the jack with the 2x4’s on top of it in front of the body mount before the rear tire you should be able to do all of them on that side. That’s what I did and it worked perfectly. I got my body mounts from Ford and they were about 30 dollars or so each. Make sure you have the parking break on. You will need to find the torque specs for them online. Word of advice when tightening the bolts to the proper torque, go nice and slow or else you will break the bolt. I’m not a mechanic and I’m telling you what I did. Please be safe when doing it and if you can have someone with you that would be best. I had my dad watching me in case something were to have happened.. Be safe ....
@@joecapobianco7166 hey thanks for the quick response I’m heading to the Ford dealership tomorrow morning going to try real hard not to buy a new f150 that I saw online today 😂
Thank you for this Very useful video.
I have the same issue only centre mount are bad. Can you tell us the part number or where you bought them from
I bought the parts from Napa Auto Parts. I do not remember the part numbers. However I think I may have shown them in the video I don't remember.
Thanks for replying fast. I guess they are the Dorman 924-064
Hi is the 2020 expedition body on frame?
Any links for exact parts thanks in advance.
Where did u purchase the body mounts from .? I can’t find them anywhere
I bought them from Napa
How many body mounts are on one side
I tried to change all of them. But the bolts do not come out because the nut rotates in. What do you recommend I do?
do you have it lowered first
Looking to replace the rear mounts on my 04. Any idea how to find the mounts? They are obsolete at ford.
Try Napa, they had listings for all of the mounts.
Can you use the same mount in the center
Yes
@@thelimogarage9665
So there's no such thing as left right a b or c position
All of the center mounts are the same. The only mounts that are different are the ones under the radiator support and I believe the very rear of the vehicle.
How many of you have change the body mounts of their expeditions ? And how long do these insulators last 4yrs-9yrs ?
Does the road & weather condition affect on them ? Thanks
Yes, road and weather can affect. My 2000 Ford expedition needs the body mounts to be change. I have a clicking noise in the right floor when turning to the left in corners.
@@Benjamin06267485 Thanks
I've got a 2015 navigator that has one front wheel sticking out about 3/4 inch farther than the other. I've checked suspension, wheel offset, pretty much any other component and nothing is wrong.
Since you have experience with the body/frame lifting, any chance you think my body is slightly offset on the frame?
Maybe it was involved in an accident?
@@351cleavland no accident, I've had it checked. It's very strange.
hello friend, where did you get them, i'm having trouble, to get them.thanks
I purchased all the mounts from Napa.
where I can buy them bodybuilding boats
Where i can the buy
Napa
Please tell me that you put jack stands under the body while you had your fingers in there. Other than that, great video.
We don't need no stinking jack stands. Just kidding, safety first!
used a harbor freight impact broke all the and had to finish with a cutting torch. Come at me bro!
How did you resecure it after cutting it off?
Good video, but is dangerd, its i Need to do for mi Lincoln navigator 2007.
What ever you do don’t use a Pittsburg jack, go buy ur me from autozone.
THATS WHY!!! 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Dumb unsafe way to lift