ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video I replace all three body mount bushings on the driver's side of the truck so you can see how it's done and what you need to do each one, including a simple puller you can make.
The body mount bushings I used: amzn.to/2lPbOYv
Exact same parts in red: amzn.to/2lPkMFf
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Why am I wearing a cast?
• I got hurt on the ranch
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Best video about this I've seen yet. The construction of these bushing assemblies is bizarre, and other videos aren't nearly this helpful illustrating how it's coming apart and going back together
Just wanted to say thanks for taking your time to post this video brother. You have helped many people out and saved us all a lot of time!
Thanks for actually showing how to do this. Most videos show before and after and only describe how they did it. Great job!
Yep, doing things alone makes a person think about how things are done. With your job I'd say you're used to it. Having the right tools makes things easier too. Good job on the truck.
Working by yourself and usually in the middle of nowhere will make a person get creative to find a solution. Thanks!
really helpful video--I'm repairing the floors and rockers on my F250. I figured I'd change the body mounts while it's all torn open. This probably saved me 2 hours trying to figure it out. Thanks!
This saved me a whole lot of time. I only needed to loosen up the mounts and install a spacer shim to line up the body lines. Could figure how to do without pulling the tank. This saved a lot of work. Thanks
Thanks for putting this video up mate....loved it....hope all is well.
Thanks again from Australia as I need to do this job.
Thank you for this very helpful video! I was able to purchase a large fender washer, some smaller ones (since the hole in 3" washers is larger than the nut), a long bolt (12-1.75 metric bolt for 1993 Ford E150 Econoline, 5.8L) at my local Ace Hardware. The 3" pipe can be purchased for around $5 at O'Reilly Auto.
For those with a 1993-1996 Ford E150... since my replacement was on the vehicle mentioned, it is important to note for those with this same make/model/year that there is a body-to-frame mount bolt (no bushing) about 2' from the body mount bushing bolt (towards the rear). I could not jack the body up high enough without removing this bolt, AS WELL AS the radiator mount bushing bolt (access under hood, to the left and right of the radiator, respectively). You will need several extensions to reach the radiator mount bushing bolts. It does not need to be removed entirely... leaving about 1/4" of the bolt threaded seemed to be enough. Just remove these three bolts, replace the cab bushing, tighten/torque, and then proceed to the other side. If your van is like mine, you may have rear A/C lines. These are mounted to the body with some U-style clips. Definitely remove them before jacking up the body on the driver's side so that you do not potentially break the lines. By the way, all the bolts can be fit with a 19mm wrench/socket. The nut on the bottom seems to be 13/16". I hope this helps someone.
Thanks so much for the info on E-series. Looking to get this done on my 1998 E350 and my 1991 E250
I ordered an energy suspension body bushing kit and they didn't send the radiator support ones. Thanks this video helped a lot. I don't have the right bushings lol.
I did my rad support mounts/ bushings and welded new sheet metal on the support last year, went pretty smooth for me ;)
Outstanding video with extensive explanations. I wont look further for another video as this is all i need. Thanks,
Wanna send me that special tool setup? 😂 Good work man great explanation of what has to be done. I want to do the i beams and traction beams and these body mounts on my 97hd 2wd. I love energy suspension.
Thank you for the video, i have a 92 f150 and i have the bushings, and was hoping there would be some videos for this, great job, thank you very nuch
Great video. I have seen people make the tool out of pvc. But i have an exhaust shop close by. Ill probably drop my fron tank because ive got fuel gauge issues that seem to trace back to the sending units...
Yep this is going to be a long weekend project! Thanks for the vid!
I needed to see how the radiator bolts go together. Good video
I appreciate the video and can relate... I'm dealing with same situation today and would like to know how you ended up getting it off after you broke off the head. Did you lift the cab high enough to push it up the top side?
Ok great, thanks. my instructions did not say anything about any lubricant either. I heard from a few other people that they use some type of grease. I have a 97 f-350 diesel utility body truck, and I just tore it apart last week to fabricate a new steel cab mount and replace the floor pans. The radiator support was rusted out as well so I repaired it yesterday. thanks again
story of ma life. did rad support with used like new powder coated one from oregon no salt zone, and today floor pans and brackets for cab mount cut out and mig in i hope lol
Did you notice any vibrations from installing the polyurethane bushings? I’ve read that they can transmit noises.
Great video. Thank you!
What kind of jack is that? It’s nice
Wow thats an old jack, where did you find that? Great video thank you
Great video! Thanks for the quality detail.
How were you able to get the first set, core support bolts after the bolt broke off?
Found myself in the same situation..
Thank. Your video helped me.
did you use the Threaded Rod on the Radiator Mount Bushing also? or is it 3/8? 7/16 for the cab mounts. going to do this tomorrow.
Can't believe it's that easy. Thanks for the vid!
Well explained thank you! Surprised no one is saying “it’s not a square body only chevy’s are square bodies.”
Excellent!!!!!!! Thanks!!!!!!!
tell me more about your diamond plate floor fix! I have an old 1993 idi and a 2000 powerstroke. 396000vs.128665. 2 current issues on the powerstroke. The problems didn't even exist when the idi was made. Reliability vs efficiency?? great video. thank you.
my floor mount is rotted it looks like yours was too at one point. whats that part called for the floor where the mount bolts to?
muy buena su informacion solo me falta conseguir unos soportes originales y no genéricos en Mexico
Hows the ride feel now better
Very helpful video, thanks man
What length are the flat plates to make that L
Did you need to buy anything other than the bushing kit listed and supplies for the puller to tackle this job? Thanks!
Nope, that was it.
I know this video is 7 years old but hope you get this. Is there any worry about warping the body while doing this? I'm gonna need to do it on an 84 Bronco
Loosen the mount bolts on both sides first and it shouldn’t be any issue at all.
If you had to do it over again would you use a narrower pipe or maybe a wider diameter pipe. I'm about to buy a piece of SCH 40 3" ID (3.50 OD X .216 wall)
Thanks men .. nice I have a F250 Ford 1987 that's awesome
great video. re: front rad bushings... my bolts are rust-welded into that center piece and I'm struggling to get them off the frame. completely loose from the body though. how did you get them separated to remove and replace? did you have to cut the bolt head off?
I have 2010 Ford E250. Conversion Van Is it the same procedure? Do you recommend using original rubber or silicone body mounts?
Glad I found this before I grabbed the sawzall
Nice! Very helpful, many thanks!
I gotta replace the oil pan along with my cab bushings on my 97 7.3 but I was told it was possible to remove the cab bolts and jack up the cab 5-7 inches and then do the same with the engine so is it possible to do it this way vs pulling the engine or transmission?
I wish I would have seen this video 6 months ago...I didn't know you had to lift the interior carpet up to get the bolt out. I took a sawzall to my truck floor to get to the cab bushing... my OBS is a little Flintstones and my feet get cold but I still out pull my neighbor's Cummins
@Ruthless Ricky yeah ricky, I didn't know it was accessible under the carpet. I found out after I cut open the floor. It doesn't effect how the truck drives..the hole is only 1 foot square. If I crazy glue a piece of wood under the carpet nobody will know when I sell it.
@@einarreitz3571 all good just change your oil
Excellent. I have replaced my body mounts on my 90 BII before but did not use your angle iron/round pipe trick-I did the dreaded sawzall. I have another BII to do now.
Can you do one body bushing at a time? Or would you have to loosen 2 or more to totally replace one body bushing assembly? Want to do the ones on my bronco .
I need to change the body mounts on my 1978 Ford Econoline E150 custom van but Im having problems sourcing some that fit. Can you recommend anywhere I can get replacement body mounts for my vehicle.
I HIGHLY recommend Energy Suspension poly bushings.
what about sb silicone bushings i got for my 97 obs? seem nice. nice and expensive lol $500, with puller and good instructions (it seems)
Hi.. what if you have a manual transmission .. will that be in the way of jacking up the cab?
It shouldn’t be, at least not for the limited distance you need for this.
@@GuyinWY thanks for the reply.. is there anything I need to disconnect before jacking up the cab?
Hi great video! i have a question the kit in amazon comes with the mounts for the four wheel or just for one wheel?
+Andrea Silvana Calderón Gamio the kit comes with all six of the body mounts.
what is the size of the piece of angle iron you used? thanks
Need to replace those front leaf spring bushings.
I’m hoping to do a solid axle swap soon which will take care of that.
Guy in WY they use the same leaf springs, you will gain some lift by doing them
When I do mine I want to do a reverse shackle kit with super duty springs.
Guy in WY oh ok that makes sense, they say it rides way better
That’s what I’ve heard. I just need to find an axle.
I did what you did mostly .. I could not figure the bolt trick out so I cut them in half with a sawzall . easy money. Thanks for info
I’ve only pulled my rear cab mounts so far as I’m rebuilding my cab, I didn’t realize they lock together like this, got mad and resorted to the sawzall as well. Worked like a charm
Thanks for making this great video and showing your homemade puller i never knew that i needed to make a puller like yours so its great that you made this video. I cant seem to find a suspension bushing set for my 1991 F450 super duty dually regular cab , is this kit the same do you think of what i need for my truck ?
Hey, just got some for my 90 f350 off of rockauto, they had the regular and poly bushings. Try there maybe?
Thank you!
Will this work on a ranger?? mine are in bad shape. thx
The process will be similar, but maybe not exactly the same.
thanks a ton for the video
great video. Thank you. What is the right torch for these nuts? Thank you again
I’m not sure what you mean by “the right torch”?
torque
nice lid!
how can you determine that the body mounts need replacing ? my truck is not as smooth riding as it used to be and i am running out of things to check. visually, they look ok to me.
If they’ve never been done, I would consider them due. The newest OBS trucks are 21-22 years old at this point. Aside from that, look at your body lines and see if the cab matches the bed and fenders. If it’s off, probably body mounts.
thanks for the reply.
yeah, the truck is 25 years old now so probably due for replacement.
good video, by the way.@@GuyinWY
@@GuyinWY my cab rattles with my idle on my 84 6.9 diesel f250. Idle is very smooth when pressure is taken off the cab. Truck sitting in field in arizona for 10 years. Body mounts? Cab also not centered with body lines.
Guys Who Do Stuff certainly sounds like bad body mounts.
@@GuyinWY they dont look dryrottted and the cab only vibrates when pressure is on the seat. Any other things it could be or try body mounts anyway?
if things don't line up the way you need them do, how do you adjust things?
What isn’t lining up?
if you lower the body back down to the frame and it doesn't line up.
The bolt holes aren’t lining up, or the body lines aren’t straight?
@Guy In WY. What made you change the body mounts. Im having issues in my ''96. Anytime I hit a bump hear the middle of the cab hitting the transfer case. Did you have any of these issues?
normal. lol jk mine's hitting all kinds of stuff too, gotta maybe replace the rusted (gone) brackets??
Thank you
What brand/model are the Jacks you are using?
I'm curious about em to?
Simplex ratcheting jacks and they are not cheap
Very informative video, the puller is a great idea. Im about to do my 09 f350 superduty. Not looking forward to it. But qutoes of 600 and 900 don't sound good either. Thanks for the video.
thanks for the video, I took the old bushings apart and forgot how to put it back together , in the proper sequence. Do you know if you have to use any type of lubricant on the polyurethane bushings?
I haven't used any type of lubricant, and the instructions didn't say anything about it.
Can you tell a difference in the ride quality before and after? Debating putting some of these on to improve the ride of my truck.
+Jacob Gerrells it's hard to say, there may have been some change but I switched to the flatbed at the same time which also affected ride quality. Not sure how much was from each.
Guy in WY, I appreciate it, I'm just trying to find out what could be making my truck ride so rough and this is next on my list.
+Jacob Gerrells depends on what you're comparing it to. These trucks just ride rough due in large part to the design of the front spring setup. If you haven't already, check out a reverse shackle kit using Super Duty springs for the front axle. If you have a 250 you'll have to do a solid front axle swap at the same time, if you have a 350 you're ready to go. My holdup is finding a solid axle to swap in on my truck.
Poly bushings will make the ride more harsh. They have essentially zero give.
Did you notice any difference in ride quality?
I did too much work all at the same time to be sure how much was due to the body mounts and how much was the flatbed.
Genius
what size piece of angle was that you used??
+mpetkovich11 it was roughly 3x3x3/8"
Great video buddy, well done. That jack that you used in the video, do they still make that style of jack and do you know where I could buy one from? Take care buddy. Thumbs up on the video.
They do still make them, but they’re very expensive new. I’d check eBay for a good used one, they’re made by the Simplex company.
Guy in WY Thank you so much for getting back to me with the info on the jack buddy.
i want a jack like that one. where to buy?
amzn.to/2PLoDPv
what size bolt did you use for the front rad support??
+CTFishing LIS 1/2" x 4" I believe. There's room to cut it off if you go a little too long.
Guy in WY thank you very much. Doing a cab swap so plan on doing the polys and New bolts
Guy in WY thank you very much. Doing a cab swap so plan on doing the polys and New bolts
Thanks Sir. The Shackles Front Leaf Rear seem to me to be brand-new, could you let me know where you bought it?
what is "OBS" I wonder.
how do these energysuspension bushings ride?
The ride doesn't seem noticeably different than new stock bushings.
Any noticeable change? Also, you happen to remove cab mounts behind the front wheel wells? Both mine are looking suspect and a matter of time.
Also, what kind of Jack is that made by simplex? Never seen one before.
Good job guy in west yurope
Anybody with rust issues (from say michigan ?, well, not michigan, any obs there has long since rusted away) .., anyway the website LMC truck sells the rad support bracket that goes on the frame rail (and the diesel rad support made of cheapish chinese steel), my bracket was ..gone. hammer drill out the rivets from the frame itself, after cutting off their heads, bolt on the new bracket, and use extension to come onto top of rad support mount from above and wrench from below.. i would have fabbed up a section of my rad support that had rusted away, had i known that were possible to replace just 1'-2' of steel along the bottom, mine was worst on passenger side (like most, because rust is worse there where the salt comes off the edge of the road, where as the crown of the road clears fastest if there's salt down, and then less crap gets up in on the driver's side) i could have cut out a section and saved importing one from a rust free state (Oregon to PA, when a friend moved to D.C.) and i powder coated it and it's nice, but easier to just fab that section and weld up and powder coat it all forever. Anyway, today is floor pans and body mount bracket that is also gone (should be under floor pan). Thanks for the very pro info!
Does this apply to a 93 bronco?
It should be close. I think the Bronco has a slightly different layout but the principle is the same.
Guy in WY thank you for replying so quick, just bought my bronco today and it has bad body mounts and was trying to find a tutorial👍🏻
Must be nice, working on a truck that's not solid rust. I like MI, but hate what it does to the vehicles.
Bought a bronco for 1800 and had a ghetto body lift that looks stupid so I wanna go back to factory body highth
Good Vid, well done.
+Wayne Tester thank you!
with no skill at all in prophecy i can tell you that my future holds two body swaps very soon.. like you i struggled with this dam contraption. the front radiator took days for me at a relaxed schedule. what a headache. and here in Oregon we don't have much rust.
just two comments
remember to dress the male bushing retainer on an abrasive wheel, and for heavens sake coat it with non seize, after you paint it and before reinstall.
second is the threaded bolt can be burned out, or it can soak in muratic acid, if you
have a hardware store near you that will supply you with a quart. its commonly used as concrete cleaner or for swimming pools, and the acid eats the rust.( all cautionary advice on using acid apply) .
schedule lots of time for this project. it will take longer than you expect, and impatience will serve you no good here as the blasted design only gets more stubborn the more you apply a macGuyver technique to it.
this project will anger you and cause foolish short cuts that don't work well.
ford needs spanked for this silly set up
God techar.
How many shims did you have on each body mount?
+Brennan Dudley I think it was three.
ford Aerostar
This is a Ford F-250 or 350
Who else watched this whole video in hopes he'd finally say "IF I GET OUT OF THIS TRUCK, IM GONNA FILL THIS WHOLE STREET WITH UPPERCUT! "..."SPOOBY!"
Jeez peez Louise, I see a "body mount kit" at $94?!
Guess hockey pucks it is, then!
Do you know how whooped a truck has to be to look like this? I feel like I need to get a Tetanus shot just for watching this video.
And sadly, this poor Ford truck is way beyond any chemotherapy. May this Ford RIP!
I'll take a rusted-out Ford over a new Dodge
Honestly looks a lot better than mine does, I’ve been driving it for 6 years, I’m part way into completely rebuilding the cab floor/cross sill in the back. Nothing is too far gone or not worth fixing if you want to fix it