Guide to crimp connectors on 3D printers - Take your wiring to the next level!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 เม.ย. 2024
- If you have any wiring to do on your 3D printer or other CNC machine, you are going to need to crimp the correct connectors. By request, this video goes over all of the types most regularly seen on these machines, the tools required and how to crimp them properly. Once you’ve done it the right way you’ll wonder how you ever managed in the past!
Thanks to Jason Friedland for requesting this video. The timing was perfect for my Rat Rig V-core 3 build: • Rat Rig V-core 3 build
0:00 Introduction
0:44 What is crimping?
2:21 What is pitch?
2:58 Wire stripping tool
Irwin vise-grip 8” wire stripping tool: amzn.to/3wuSosS
4:28 Heat shrink Terminals
Assorted terminal set: amzn.to/2TgVwuj
Terminal crimping tool: amzn.to/2TcyJQi
You can also use the crimping section of the wire strippers for these connectors.
6:18 Ferrule/bootlace
Ferrule/bootlace crimping tool/connector set: amzn.to/3bktGn8
7:57 Crimping tool for most of the following connectors
IWISS 3220M crimping tool: amzn.to/2QJJ05t
8:20 Dupont (2.54mm pitch)
Dupont premade jumper wires: amzn.to/3f7PSSz
Dupont crimp connector set: amzn.to/3oLkHks
11:06 JST-XH (2.5mm pitch)
JST-XH crimp connector set: amzn.to/3hNGHcJ
12:33 Molex (2.54mm pitch)
Molex crimp connector set: amzn.to/3ueogRg
Note: Like JST, there are a wide range of connectors in the ‘Molex’ family, so take care to get the right ones for your hardware.
13:39 JST-PH (2.00mm pitch)
JST-PH crimp connector set: amzn.to/3fyX6Pq
14:53 Conclusion
JST-RCY crimp connector set: amzn.to/3fBCJ48
These connectors are great for inline plugs, because they are polarised (can’t be plugged in backwards).
Other resources used:
JST connector wiki reference: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JST_con...
Handcuffs image: upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...
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Hello viewers! Some corrections:
- I've trimmed the few seconds that mention twisting wires. Plenty of feedback from people with expertise in this area advising not to.
- My naming of male and female JST ends were reversed.
- Also, another nice tip is to have the end of the stripped wire poke through the end of the ferrule and then trim it back flush after crimping.
Just one thing to add, tinning wires before putting them into a ferrule is also bad practice. I missed that comment, but I see a lot of people do it.
God I wish there was a video like this before I started getting into cable work. I do have some corrections though:
these tools are all chinese budget stuff, none of them are actually "GOOD". This also goes for the connectors you use, I highly doubt that any of the JST XH, PH, ZH, "dupont" or any other are actually genuine connectors so basically you cannot rely on these connections to the full extent. People will look up datasheets and will find that a "dupont" connector will suffice for a 3A connection but that is for original ones with the original tool that crimps within spec. The real world specs for these knock-offs are much lower and not everyone will know this.
Also if you are still looking for a solid ratcheting crimper I highly suggest you look further into IWISS' offerings. The ones I have myself and can actually recommend are the SN-025, the IWS-1442L and the SN-58b. These are probably the best non-expensive less-shitty crimpers you can buy right now.
You say tinting wires is hazardous yet using lugs which can melt or wiring overheat at the lug can burn more easily than tinting wires
@@MarinusMakesStuff you know why is that just crimping can lead to overheating if joint is not crimped properly especially with shoddy crimping pliers and tinting can lead to a cooler connection but the best way is to solder the lugs but that leads to destroying the plastic cover.
I came across liquid solder in my car audio adventures! Stuff is great! Definitely look it up 👍👍
"Buy the right tools and you'll never go back." Truer words were never spoken!
True. I got the lousy one for being a cheapskate. Ended up, I lost time which I’ll never get back.
Sometimes also expressed as "I can't afford to buy cheap tools."
I would happily buy the proper crimpers if I could find them. The ads on Amazon are unreliable.
@@ramtek2702 Simple, do as i do just buy them all until you find the right one. The Iwiss 3220 works really good. It helps to close the tool on the terminal one click of the ratchet. This hold the terminal in place. Then you can even set the tool and terminal down while you try to find the wire you just stripped!!.
@@larsord9139 Buying all the crimpers isn't a solution for people on a budget. Actually I gave up on that idea after a couple of hundred dollars wasted. The "one click" trick isn't anything new. I've used it for decades but thanks for the suggestion.
These are the sort of things that once you start using them, you really come to question how you went without them for so long. They are just soooo much nicer than other way of doing it.
You don't come to question it. You are admitting they just are nicer. So it's basically an aesthetic difference between one and the other
It's not a question of "why dont I use these connectors?" but a question of "why didnt I do this sooner?" :P
I just got a crimping set, it's SO much more nicer than having to solder things together.
I imagine the same people that don't care how it "looks" still won't care.
It turns your sloppy DIY crap into professional work.
I crimped a *lot* of pins in the almost 10 years I worked in a factory. The one observation I would make is: good strippers are a must-have.
In strict terms: the *end* of the insulation must be visible in the gap between the strain relief crimp and the conductor crimp, and all the strands must be visible both sides of the conductor crimp (the ends can't be too long, and none should be missing). Proper calibration of the crimp tool is essential, your QA guy would use a sample of the wire & pins being used to do a "pull-off test" to make sure the crimp could withstand the specified tension - too loose and the wire pulls out of the conductor crimp, too tight and the strands break because they are over-crushed.
In theory, a good crimp will be gas-tight. :)
Fantastic info packed into one comment! Thanks for sharing this.
GODDAMMIT!!!! Why do I always stumble on the perfect video explaining everything 10 minutes AFTER I've finished the job.
hi klistada, what do you think about all gubments drawing a line around you(Antarctic Treaty) and saying you are not allowed to leave? If you don't know what I mean, read my about tab.
As i learned in an electrical Company in Germany its not aloud to twist the wire because you increase the diameter that can cause lose connetors. Just gently allign the wire and crimp
Here we were taught to twist back to the natural lay of the wire, but not too much as it increases the diameter of the wire.
@@justindeibel7660 right just as it is IN the Isolation thats the right way, allmost everybody twist the wires to get it better in but thats not correct
Very helpful. Couple of observations though.
The JST connectors that are soldered onto the board are male connectors, not female.
You can make polarized inline DuPont connectors by swapping one pin with the opposite type of pin in each connector. So for a two pin connecter, each one would have one male and one female pin. For three wire ones, one plug would have two female and one male (on either end - not in the middle) and other other one a matching (2 males one female).
When making any plug with an exposed pin, do not have that pin carrying any current/power. This prevents possibility of shorts with the exposed pin.
Good point. For the original version of Du Pont connectors, made by Berg, you could get a plastic blanking pin that inserted from the other (narrow) end, blocking off one position. I don't know if you can still get those; I have a hoard from decades ago. There's a similar thing for Molex KK 0.1" pitch connectors.
@@pnt1035 the whole 'polarising pin' thing is interesting- from the blanking pins to prevent the wrong cable being inserted, to keying inserts that are riveted into connectors so you can't plug the wrong board into the rack cage. Very much still a thing, though it has been a while since I used anything like this :)
ooh, that polarized connectors idea is really good, never thought of that before
@@pnt1035 That's the same concept as the key "pins" in PC motherboards, USB headers are usually 2x5 for 2 connectors, being 1 empty key and one unused (or extra ground for the shield), then the other 2x5 header usually close by - the on-board audio - has a different position for the key pin, so neither you can insert the wrong cable on the wrong header, nor can you insert any of them the other way around.
To clarify:
Always make the pin that *supplies* the power a female pin.
This is the very best video teaching crimping. You included photos and detailed descriptions of the several connector types. Perfect.
What a fantastic video. Thorough, clear, well-paced, excellent production values.
Very Very much appreciated! very thorough, ive been researching connectors for the past week and your timing could not have been more perfect.
This was a REALLY useful guide, thank you for taking the time to put it together!
Thank you for this, as someone who's very new to the electrical side of things, and intimidated by it, this is an AMAZING resource. The fact that you don't assume any prior knowledge is SO helpful, being a total beginner, so again thank you!
Nice work. Very concise and thorough, and I really appreciate the numerous and accurate links to the tools and connector sets. A really excellent job, thank you.
Great video thanks. One tip - when stripping insulation leave on end of wire then twist as you remove it, this gives a tighter twist. Forty years making looms/harnesses.
Excellent tip - thanks
Thank you! I'll try that
@@ToddDunning no problem, anything to make life easy
@@SuryanIsaac it works great, the insulation is tight on strand so grips.
@@robmills4709 I've always had problems with removing insulation, and the wire separates when I'm trying to crimp
Tanks so much Michael, again helping and teaching the best you can. I love this shirt, it brings back memories of good old times!
Even after about 1.5y of 3d printing, you still educate me on topics like this. There's just too much choice, you cut down the possible options and give a clear recommendation. Without pushing it through. Keep it up!
Perfect timing! I literally just received my connector kit and plan on starting wiring my Voron 2.4 tonight. Thanks!
Ha! Me too. Starting assembling HevORT.
This is exactly what I needed. I'm rebuilding my printer and this video couldn't come at a better time. Thank you for sharing that knowledge.
Thanks Michael, I bought a crimping tool and a bunch of connectors some time ago and never quite got the hang of it. I'll definitely re-watch this next time I need to do some wiring!
I saw some videos about the same topic, that is the best so far, clearly explaned, nice details, and nice video quality to get the needed visual details. Thanks for that!
Best video on crimping I have seen so far. Many thanks.
This video was perfectly timed for me! I just started wiring my Voron V0, and this video has helped a lot.
Oh nice, always good having detailed and high quality guides for this :D
Thank you! This was incredibly useful as I think this seems like the most onerous part of building a 3D printer.
Love this channel man keep up the good work you helped get me into 3D printing cannot thank you enough
Thank you so much for going through each one. I actually feel like I have a general feel for what I'd be doing now.
I've been using the wrong crimping pliers. That explains why my connections are either crushed or falling off after crimping them. Thank you for this great help
I had the same trouble with my other crimping tools. The connector would bend the wrong way and snap off, very frustrating. Very happy with the IWISS tool!
Thanks again Michael for another great video! You're helping an old nerd immensely, since I had no clue what these connectors / pins were called. Since I recently busted one during an Ender 5 Plus upgrade, this knowledge is invaluable! And Amazon is a few bucks richer!
Great camera work and explanations! Not building a printer, but the crimping is crimping. Thanks very much!
Holy cow! Such a very concise and thorough explanation! Thank you very much for this. The information will be very helpful.
This information was very helpful and the Amazon links took the guesswork out of buying the correct supplies. Thanks for the wealth of information you provide on your channel!
Great to make this kind of education on this channel. As we are making our 3d printers better, a proper cable connection is always necessary.
Great video. I'm so thankful for how standardized most plugs are on 3D printers. Working on arcade cabinets back in the day I used to get some very strange ones especially in Japanese machines. 24 or 30 pin JSTs for example. A real pain to replace even now with Aliexpress etc as an option.
This is a great video and should be required for anyone who is serious about modding their printers. As you said most of these tools you purchase once and wonder how you ever got by without it.
Gotta say you have my favorite 3d printing channel for me to learn from. Everything you talk about is very detailed and easy to follow and the amount of different videos you have on different subjects has taught me alot. I've been doing 3d printing for about a week at this point lol but most of the many dozen hours ive spent on TH-cam learning about printing has been on this channel.
Ironically enough i got into 3d printing because of my new time wasting obsession, F1. I got a sim wheel i wanted to make mods for. And ive seen you're a fan as well. It all connects lol.
This is the best video I've seen on this subject. Most I look up on crimping are either old or the quality of the video is terrible. I learned a lot from this! Kudos to you! If I could afford it, I would be building the Ratrig 300 cube right with you!
Thank you for this! It'll help me upgrade the fans on my Ender 3 pro. Keep up the great tutorials.
Thank you, this is one of the best tutorial videos on crimping tool usage. A key takeaway for me was how to sit JST and Dupont the connectors in the crimping tool. This step is critical to a successful crimp.
Thank you for making this video! I'm about to upgrade the motherboard on my CR-20 Pro (because the stock drivers are driving me crazy). I wanted to crimp the cables so as to do a good job, but never did it before. This helped tons!
Simple but a great episode. Thanks for this!
Great work! I have been meaning to research and learn this stuff for awhile. Thank you.
Always so helpul man, I watch all your videos even if I think I know the topic because you are always thurough.
I wish this video existed ten years ago when I was building my first 3D printer and didn't have any guides. Now I own all these connectors and a great crimping tool, and I have to say it's super mindful and therapeutic to make your own crimp connectors onto the ends of the wires. And it's fun to be able to make every strand of wire the correct length, and to wire it all up perfectly. Looking back at the printers I made ten years ago, it's crazy to see how I fixed cabling issues back then. Cutting off the connectors with a little extra wire so I could cut them to length and then solder back the wires in order to have a connector on the end.
I was very much the same for years. I would horde plugs with bits of wire and solder them together to make my wiring looms.
This is exactly for what I was looking. You asked if you missed anything. I would have like to have heard the wire gauges used with each type of connector. Great video. Thank you.
just one remark on this great video, Michael: it is common practice not to twist cables you want to crimp, at least not as excessive as you have shown. The crimp will be much better in that way, long term.
I don't think for the ferrules it really matters because it is crimped from all 4 sides.
@@gizelle-s the manufacturers of those crimp contacts will tell you not to twist ... but of course, think as you like. no problem
@@peter.stimpel I'm not doing it, so it's all good, lol.
You should have millions of subscribers. Your videos are always so well done, easy to follow, and highly knowledgeable!
Thank you! I've been trying to get information on this stuff for months and no one has explained it beyond "Just connect some X/Y/Z to the wires and you're done." No details on what to look for, how to crimp, or what to buy. Thank you so much for this!
Great video for someone like me that is not familiar with all the different crimping tools.
Awesome video. Been messing with this stuff a long time and still got a lot of good info!
This is a fantastic wealth of knowledge, thank you for sharing this! I'm gonna have to try to get my hands on a ferrule kit I guess, cause I just don't trust the tinned wire/screw connector combo in my Ender 3 V2 at this point. Was very surprised to find out how much safer a ferrule is and why!
Nice video. Great explanation. I would still use a high end multi point crimper for the "automotive" lugs and forked connectors. The single point crimp tends to create a weak point in the crimp that can break under load and short - he says from experience.
This is a great video! It's a basic skill that I knew very little about. Thank you
It would be cool to add a bit more to this. Like what wire types to use. What gauge fits the various connectors(jst, dupont, molex)? What gauge should be used for different parts on the 3d printer? Silicone or pvc insulation? Ribbon or multiple singles? Also, what are your preferred cable management tools such as velcro ties, zipties, self adhesive clips, heat shrink tubing, PET expandable or closed cable sleeving. There's a lot to it, and i think you're the perfect candidate to do some videos on 3d printer wiring. A lot of people want to make their own 3d printer, but then scare away when they find that they have to do all the wiring themselves.
Thank you very much for this video. I tried crimping a Noctua fan and didn't have the ride connectors or any idea how to crimp them; I ended up soldering the connector from the old fan onto the Noctua. You've solved this mystery!
Excellent explenations and visuel guide. Thank you very much!
This is something, I needed a long time ago
Funny - I only bought a DuPont/JST type crimper last week, haven't used it yet - thanks for the tutorial, very helpful....
Perfect timing for this great video
I wish more components came in "Buy Once" packaging. Like Machine screws, Angle Brackets, etc.
Great graphics for your examples - will be doing this crimping soon (no more soldering)
how is it
A great video. I've been using dupont connectors for decades, mostly when I was in to RC models. The "futaba" style connectors are basically a tabbed 3-pin dupont to ensure polarity and I've found that if you're worried about accidentally reversing polarity when using 2-pin dupont connectors to use 3-pin connectors instead and leave one slot empty. This makes it very simple to line up the connectors and makes it more difficult (not impossible) to reverse the polarity accidentally. still got to pay attention though. lol
I saved up for a nice benchtop crimping press. Saves so much time, no more juggling wires, crimps and tool everything just stays in place. Handheld crimping tools are one of those "great" inventions that requires a person to have 2.5 hands in order to use them most effectively.
Thanks to Jason Friedland for requesting this video, it was very informative and interesting, thanks Michael
Best video for crimping.
This is the exact video I needed for working on my iron man cosplay wiring!!! I needed to learn the connectors, pros, cons, and purposes and that is what this video did
I'd say for small wires.
Jst-ph or xh. Both are small and locking.
For larger use a spade connector. Since it handles more current.
And then you got all the others that fulfill the other specialties.
@@girrrrrrr2 thanks
I was so facilitated when I saw the Thumbnail. I really need this Information
Incredibly useful. Thanks so much for posting
One of the most helpful vids I've seen, thanks.
Perfect explanation of what crimping is/does, with those illustrations and everything! But gawwwwwwd I hate crimping so much! Especially the fiddly little JST connectors, those things are the bane of my existence! There's no 'getting good' at it, either! No matter how many perfectly good crimps you make your next one can always be a complete mess!
Exceptional as always mate, thank you
Fantastic Detailed video! thank you soo much for making this legend 👍
Thank you, a really handy and informative video. Thanks for sharing!
This video is very well done, covering a lot of material in a short time. In my experience, it is important to pat attention to the split in the ferrule portion of a ringed or forked terminal. The split should always be on the "cradle side of the crimping jaws, as the "post" can split the split. When this happens, there is no pull-out strength.
I completely agree! I've seen it happen about the split. I teach every apprentice I come across this at every chance I get. Cradle the split!!!
I was looking for this before I commented…
Very nice video Michael, I have now 5-6 different crimpers, just the get the right one... but I can crimp a lot of wires
2 Years later I have bought the right crimping tool and crimping a lot of wires already with it. for the JST crimping tool, usually you can got untill you hear 1 or 2 clicks, push in the wires and complete the crimp
Yes!!! In struggling with crimping.
This video is priceless. Thanks Michael
Invaluable knowledge here.
Thanks again for an excellent tutorial
Excellent and very helpful, useful for any electronics learner.... Thanks a lot....👍👍👌👌
Thank you for a very informative video. I'd like to make a couple of comments.
First: A massive thumbs up for not drowning your voice out with music - it always amazes me how many videos do that.
Secondly: I've been looking for a crimper for a while and must have watched a hundred videos. None of which showed the information I needed.
You have shown exactly what I wanted to see and I'm going to get the Iwiss 3220 now. Thanks.
how is the crimper
@@flat-earther Sorry, I've only just seen your reply. I actually had to send it back. I don't know if it was me, the crimper or the connectors, but I couldn't get it to crimp in one go. I had to move the connector through a bit more each time and crimp again.
@@jonsumisu9016 oh okay.
Actually I ended up buying Engineer pad-11 which cost me 67USD, only crimped a servo connector with it so far and it worked good. with it the conductor and insulation have to be crimped separately.
Yes, I think it might be asking a bit too much for one tool to crimp both in one go, and be able to do different sizes.@@flat-earther
Great demo Michael
Needed this, I've got the kit but no idea how to use it properly, until now!
Dude thank you so much for this video. I never knew what those connectors were called.
Legit thought that was a cartoon shark in the thumbnail before I read the title!
😂 🎵cartoon shark do do do do
You missed my favorite connector JST SM, ists a great wire-to-wire connector, locking, polarized, max 3A and rugged. I mad my full hotend "modular" using JST SM, so i can change my thermistor or fans in seconds, without rerouting 2 meters of cable everytime.
Thanks for the tips!
unless you buy genuine JST connectors and terminals from Japan with the 1500$ tool I doubt your connections will work up to 3A.
I like it too though, there is a reason it is often used in LED applications
Thanks for this, this will be very useful for me.
Perfect timing, I'm just about to rewire my printer with silicone wires for their higher temperature resistance.
Very useful video. Have Lots of stuff to order now.
nice, brief and clear explanation, thank you :)
Excellent tutorial 👌
Thanks 😊
You have finally invested into DIYers crimp tools and accessories :)
Excelent video. I was almost giving up on doing my printer upgrade connections to Manta M4P. Thank you very much. I like the Ayrton Senna T-shirt! Brazil!
good instructional video - here's a tip for those that use those vise-grip style strippers - if you notice the serrated jaws always bite and mark the cable - if you use them with the cable fed in from the other side with the waste end gripped by the serrations you dont end up with cables with chewed insulation
You got IWISS out of stock, congrats! Thanks for the video right in time
Good video! Can't wait until the next Rat Rig video!
Thank you very much, really very informative & very systematically explained. Highly appreciated. 👌👍
Thank you. Learnt a lot from this.
Thank you very much for this video! Very helpful!!!
Great video, really well done. Thanks
bro, this is it! now i know what i need to buy and how to do!
Like always professional!