“Vector 3D’s video on 3D printer electrical connections isn’t the hero we deserved but it is the one we needed right now” -Commissioner Gordon, The Dark Knight
This video was a great help! My Anycubic I3 Mega X's X Axis stepper starting acting like it was having an epileptic fit. Turns out a wire had disconnected from the terminal in the connector block. This helped me purchase the correct kit to repair. Thanks again.
I took your advice and six months ago added this to a Playlist. I'm glad that I did because today I needed it. Perhaps you could do a followup video on crimper selection.
Came here to learn if I could print my own electrical connectors due to supply shortages. Just wanted to thank you for the great video explaining all of the concepts in one video.
How about adding a pdf cheat sheet that summarizes this info? I would greatly appreciate it since you’ve done a fantastic job putting this video together.
Thanks very much for this video. The world needs more like it - general yet thorough informational videos on the topics that are usually glossed over in specific application videos.
@@Vector3DP I've wasted hours of my life trying to google the names of the connectors and terminals previously. Your video lays it all out in a nice easy to understand fashion for anyone whos looking to build/modify a 3D printer. So i say Top Job!
@@Vector3DP You have caused this Yank to dust off his use of Bits and Bobs from your videos, but I'm not sure I'll be able to pull out the Blimey, when I have so many other alternatives many of which have the expletives deleted already. Oh, yeah, thanks for Another even better well done video. p.s. I used to use many of these connectors professionally 27 yrs ago, and had NO clue why one was chosen for it's application over another. Seriously, thank you.
Thank you, I remembered this one, have bought new screen for printer, now building longer cables, 1st time, so helpful and information packed, best wishes !!
Love all your videos. You have every potential to grow massive. Don't know why many people haven't found your channel yet but I'm sure whenever they do, I'm sure you'll be amongst the top names when it comes to 3d printing youtubers. Keep up the amazing work! Cheers!
I now have come back to this video the 3rd time! It is very useful! Thank you so much for creating it and going into the details and adding the chapters!
I was just hoping the other day that one of you guys would make a video about this subject. I use SM, XH, PH, Dupont, ferrules, etc and others on the regular.
Very helpful video thanks for the help....do you have any info on how to make your bed heater mat removable with microfit 3.0 molex connections with 2 pin or 3 pins for a voron 2.4 and also the print head removable so you can take it off and on very easily, thanks in advance for the help again
@alejandroaguirre2355, watch it again. I believe both questions were answered in video. IIRC, look for SL for the Print head/X carriage removal and Molex Fit Jr for the heater bed as they are both locking connectors good for those applications. Although most heater mats I've seen are stick on and may not lend themselves to removal from the plate, those connectors should allow easier removal of the bed plate with heater attached. Good luck. 🙂
Really great video, you may forgotten XT connectors , I know are more often used for batteries but in my opnion are a good alternative to take into consideration.
Couldnt you print the connectors you need and have them as spare parts when you need them? Granted if you have thin Copper/brass plates, some heavy gauge wire for pins and some soldering skills? Would be fun to try out
this is not a boring video i think is maybe the most useful video for DIY 3d printers and upgrades. You missed only few of them like JST XH 1.25 (BL/CR Touch body) XT60 (hotbed cable-cable) and the new Molex Micro Fit 3.0 used by bondtech for Heatlink (thermistors and heating cartridges)
Kinda like the molex SL connectors you mentioned for prusa but for voron 2.4 DIY builds that are self sourcing the parts themselves, I'm trying to get to a guide on how to make my bed heater and print head wiring harness removable so that I can maintain it easily...RaveRobot has a guide on Google but not many pictures of the connectors up close
This video is awesome. Do you have a spreadsheet with the specs you mentioned such as current rating, wire gauge, and temperature performance? Additional comment: I looked for the JST AF connectors and it's hard to find results. Is there another common name for these? Blade terminals are close, but don't quite match.
@Vector 3D Any idea where to buy Molex SL receptacles? Been trying to find some for a while now. Found what I think is it on eBay from China, won't get here for a bit, assuming it even ends up being the right thing. Been pretty tough finding this stuff! Just when you thought they sold EVERYTHING on Amazon...Hell, having links for all the plugs you talked about would be super helpful!
I tend to go for specific electrical suppliers such as Farnell, digikey, mouser. Trouble with links is different countries need different shops which becomes quite complex.
Great video and good information! Maybe you could have shown even more footage of each connector. Special thanks to adding the chapters in this video! I will probably come back to this video several times in future!
JST XH has a 2.50mm pitch. It is a common mistake along the web stores, but it actually can ruin your day only if you assuming to replace a pin header with it or designing a custom PCB/prototyping on a perfboard.
Yep, correct. It actually says 2.5mm on my notes too but in the excitement of recording I said 2.54. Darn. Well hopefully it's not too critical for anyone.
I was looking to see if someone had pointed this out :) Luckily you can usually get away with using 2.50mm-pitch JST-XH connectors in a 2.54mm-pitch PCB footprint where the connector has no more than a handful of pins - presumably depending mostly on the size of drilled holes on the board relative to the diameter of the connector's pins. The difference between 2.50mm and 2.54mm is only [ (n-1) * 0.04mm ], where 'n' is the number of "circuits" on the connector, so the outer-most pins of a 4-pin connector (e.g. stepper motor) would be just 0.12mm offset from where they should be, which can be "shared" between the two ends (I think!). Most boards will be able to accept pins being 0.06mm off. Most consumer 3D printers use connectors with 4 or 5 pins at most, so that won't be a big deal unless the board was designed with holes barely larger than the connector pins. I imagine more people would notice and be aware of the difference if it was more of a problem! (My printer uses a lot of hand-crimped connectors, even with a couple of my own custom PCBs, and the "largest" connector I have is 5 pins for the BL-Touch, for example.) But you're right, it absolutely can ruin your day if you're dealing with more pins per connector! I don't think my stock of JST-XH connectors goes beyond 6 circuits, but I have "KF2510" connectors in stock that go at least up to 10 circuits, which could definitely start being problematic at only 0.04mm per pin...
Very informative and quality video but you forgot the bltouch connector and I think it is the smdu of course thank you very much correct me if I'm wrong
Thanks for great information. I can't tell you how many oddball connectors that I have because I didn't have this info. I also didn't know that ferrules have a special crimping tool. Never can have too many tools.
Great video, thank you. Unfortunately for me, you did not cover the specific connector I am looking for. This is the wire to board connector that connects the thermistor of the hot end to the interface board of the Creality CR10S Pro. It is 2 pin, has a latching tab and I believe might be JST. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you and keep up the great videos.
Great video and learned a great deal. That said, I am having a problem finding the right components. I have a Creality CR-10 and the stepper motor cable has failed. I have purchased a set of JXT-PH connectors and crimpers from Amazon but they appear to be 'shorter'. IDK. My first venture into this. I'd like to get it right since I'm sure this won't be the first time I'll 'wear out' a cable. So, I'm hoping the group watching this great video, or even Vector 3D, could recommend a source available through the internet. Ideally, I'd like a source I know if right. Perhaps a recommended good set of crimpers as well.
Oddly I am modding a filament drier (Sunlu) and inside its small size appears to be like a JST ph...but pitch of 1mm???? so is that still a jst ph or something else?
While JST is a "Brand" name if I was told this uses a JST connector I would have an idea of what it is. It is like how people call the 4 pin hard drive connector a "Molex" even though its not made by Molex but AMP. Molex made a similar looking plug, but it has one chamfered edge while the AMP has 2 chamfered edges.
@@Vector3DP Yes. I believe “wire trap” refers to how it doubles-back on itself, but they make them where they fit in-line too. Other kids of IDC: Replacement plugs sold at hardware stores in North America which, when closed, clamp onto standard “lamp cord” to tap into the conductors. These let any mom or kid can replace a lamp plug. We also have “Quick Splice” connectors that clamp onto a wire and connect another wire merely by closing the latch. No stripping, taping, or soldering. If you look at most 4-pin power plugs on an old ATX power supply (the kind mostly used for IDE drives) you will often find that only the connector on the end is crimped while the others on the chain are IDC. Also, the IDE cables themselves are IDC as well as floppy cables and various header cables. You can even buy D-sub connectors with different ways to attach wires, like crimp, solder cup, and IDC (I use these a lot). Heck, even my PC Engine RAU-30 ROM² Adapter for NEC SuperGrafx has a huge through-hole IDC hidden inside… though it was poorly designed and the blades at the end lack support.
Thanks for a very detailed video. You should add affiliate links to Amazon to get a small kickback as I bet many people, just like myself, after watching this video will realize that they now need to buy correct connectors and wire for whatever project they are working on.
The problem is, I'd never really recommend getting these kinds of things from amazon, or even anywhere that does affiliate marketing as you'll likely just get knock-offs (aks clones) which are generally not great. I'd suggest going to proper electronics places like Farnell, CPC, RS, Mouser etc. Now you got me thinking though, it might be a good idea for me to buy a large QTY from a reputable place and sell smaller sets on my own site, that might be useful.
Hi Adam, great video as normal. As discussed over on the Twitters a Duet3D Duet 3 uses a JST-VH 3.96mm for the hotend heaters & stepper motor connections. I didn't see this mentioned so thought I'd comment :D. Also as a little helper for others for viewing this video at a later date, could you add timestamps for the sections this would be very helpful ;-). Cheers, J.
Those are something else. I am setting up a duet 3 on a CNC mill and they're pretty impressive. Also there is good reason because I had the older style melt multiple times at well below the amperage rating. Duet folks are aware that this is common with nema 23s and thats one of the reasons Duet 3 has these big boys.
hey I am trying to make some custom power cables for my computer but no where can i find Molex Mini fit Jr 6+2 connector (for using with gpu) are these produced by someone else perhaps? they are not on molex's website as far as i can tell (series 5557)
There are certainly PLENTY of old sound card to CD-ROM audio cables that use DuPont connectors to fit Molex SL. ;) Usually they are the kind with two different kinds on the drive end.
On the standard connections (ring terminals, forks, faston/quick disconnect) you could use only the standard name, indicate size, etc. And brand only as reference, as they are standard from a milliard manufacturers. The others are not, and a brand is building the specification
Great resource! Unfortunately you failed to mention VGA. They are very cheap, reliable, and compatible with VGA cables that you can get for almost free pretty much everywhere. Anyone who works with computers will literally have a box of compatible cables just laying around. Any problem with the wiring loom, just throw away plug and play!
Very informational Video. Many thanks for that. I linked it in an very important German Discord Channel. He has an YT Channel too, but only in German Language.
you HAVE to solder your leads direct to the headbed. You can then use a connector in the middle of the cable where there is no wear and tear from the back and forth motion. This is how it is on the creality ender 3 printers. I have a CR10 clone that had one of those typical connectors and just like every other printer with the connector on the head bed plate it eventually burned up even with a custom strain relief. Had temps very high when tested with an IR thermometer. After soldering the cables direct to the pins, cool as can be.
@@Vector3DP noo i spelled it wrong not on purpose. I mean remove 3d printing from the title because you made a great video that aplies beyond the scope of 3d printing. But still having 3d printing in the title could help algorithm its chaotic it depends
This video would be immensely helpful to any hobbyist that dabbles in small electronics, not just 3D printers
Dupont master race.
I'd think that most electronics projects are more standardized than 3d printers, but I'd probably be wrong. But still!
“Vector 3D’s video on 3D printer electrical connections isn’t the hero we deserved but it is the one we needed right now”
-Commissioner Gordon, The Dark Knight
Algorithm hates you... took me 3 weeks to find this AMAZING VIDEO. So useful... legit did all the stuff you said.
Started tinkering 30yrs ago, wish this vid was available back then! Thanks a bunch! Also great when repurposing parts from other electronics!
This video was a great help! My Anycubic I3 Mega X's X Axis stepper starting acting like it was having an epileptic fit. Turns out a wire had disconnected from the terminal in the connector block. This helped me purchase the correct kit to repair. Thanks again.
Great to hear!
Ahhhh. Thank you *_THANK_* you. You have packed a *TON* of useful information into this one tiny video. I'll be using this as a reference guide! 😀
Brilliant work. Most of us have had to work all this out the hard way ..... thanks for creating a comprehensive reference point for new players
I took your advice and six months ago added this to a Playlist. I'm glad that I did because today I needed it. Perhaps you could do a followup video on crimper selection.
Came here to learn if I could print my own electrical connectors due to supply shortages. Just wanted to thank you for the great video explaining all of the concepts in one video.
man you save my life!! thanks for this type of videos, that seams easy but it ISNT!
How about adding a pdf cheat sheet that summarizes this info? I would greatly appreciate it since you’ve done a fantastic job putting this video together.
Thanks very much for this video. The world needs more like it - general yet thorough informational videos on the topics that are usually glossed over in specific application videos.
I know this video is 2 years old but it's totally informative and I love the way you present your information
This helped a lot! Thank you :) This content is so important for the Makers out there...
thank you; this video was pure gold for me as a first time desktop CNC builder.
This video is pure 3Dprinting/electronics GOLD
Blimey, isn't that quite the compliment. Thanks ☺️
@@Vector3DP I've wasted hours of my life trying to google the names of the connectors and terminals previously. Your video lays it all out in a nice easy to understand fashion for anyone whos looking to build/modify a 3D printer. So i say Top Job!
@@Vector3DP You have caused this Yank to dust off his use of Bits and Bobs from your videos, but I'm not sure I'll be able to pull out the Blimey, when I have so many other alternatives many of which have the expletives deleted already. Oh, yeah, thanks for Another even better well done video. p.s. I used to use many of these connectors professionally 27 yrs ago, and had NO clue why one was chosen for it's application over another. Seriously, thank you.
Thank you, I remembered this one, have bought new screen for printer, now building longer cables, 1st time, so helpful and information packed, best wishes !!
Love all your videos. You have every potential to grow massive. Don't know why many people haven't found your channel yet but I'm sure whenever they do, I'm sure you'll be amongst the top names when it comes to 3d printing youtubers. Keep up the amazing work! Cheers!
Thank you for this awesome content. Been going crazy trying to figure out the names of these connectors, crimps, and crimper tools.
This video is greatly appreciated! I had no idea what some of these were called to search online. Thank you!
Haha awesome this. I have 8 of these boxes now from Ali and still missing the heat cartidge connector from the sidewinder x1.
Good advice Adam, nice touch on including Ohms law too. Yeah, I used to be an electrician.
I now have come back to this video the 3rd time! It is very useful! Thank you so much for creating it and going into the details and adding the chapters!
Wicked good video. Valueable on soo many levels. Thank you.
I was just hoping the other day that one of you guys would make a video about this subject. I use SM, XH, PH, Dupont, ferrules, etc and others on the regular.
preciva and dupont connectors, mainly... You need good crimping tools to ensure a tight mechanical connection.
Very helpful video thanks for the help....do you have any info on how to make your bed heater mat removable with microfit 3.0 molex connections with 2 pin or 3 pins for a voron 2.4 and also the print head removable so you can take it off and on very easily, thanks in advance for the help again
@alejandroaguirre2355, watch it again. I believe both questions were answered in video. IIRC, look for SL for the Print head/X carriage removal and Molex Fit Jr for the heater bed as they are both locking connectors good for those applications. Although most heater mats I've seen are stick on and may not lend themselves to removal from the plate, those connectors should allow easier removal of the bed plate with heater attached. Good luck. 🙂
The FLSUN Delta printers use the 2-pin JST SM connectors for everything on the hotend (fans, thermistor, heater cartridge)
Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you
Really great video, you may forgotten XT connectors , I know are more often used for batteries but in my opnion are a good alternative to take into consideration.
Great informative video. Can you make video on actual wire crimping process for (2.5 mm pin pitch) JST XH series connectors ?
Couldnt you print the connectors you need and have them as spare parts when you need them? Granted if you have thin Copper/brass plates, some heavy gauge wire for pins and some soldering skills? Would be fun to try out
Super helpful! Added to the education playlist for later reference.
finaly a decent explanation of the connectors.
this is not a boring video i think is maybe the most useful video for DIY 3d printers and upgrades. You missed only few of them like JST XH 1.25 (BL/CR Touch body) XT60 (hotbed cable-cable) and the new Molex Micro Fit 3.0 used by bondtech for Heatlink (thermistors and heating cartridges)
Kinda like the molex SL connectors you mentioned for prusa but for voron 2.4 DIY builds that are self sourcing the parts themselves, I'm trying to get to a guide on how to make my bed heater and print head wiring harness removable so that I can maintain it easily...RaveRobot has a guide on Google but not many pictures of the connectors up close
For heater wire, would you recommend the Molex SL, or the Molex Mini Fit Jr?
This video is awesome. Do you have a spreadsheet with the specs you mentioned such as current rating, wire gauge, and temperature performance? Additional comment: I looked for the JST AF connectors and it's hard to find results. Is there another common name for these? Blade terminals are close, but don't quite match.
@Vector 3D Any idea where to buy Molex SL receptacles? Been trying to find some for a while now. Found what I think is it on eBay from China, won't get here for a bit, assuming it even ends up being the right thing. Been pretty tough finding this stuff! Just when you thought they sold EVERYTHING on Amazon...Hell, having links for all the plugs you talked about would be super helpful!
I tend to go for specific electrical suppliers such as Farnell, digikey, mouser. Trouble with links is different countries need different shops which becomes quite complex.
Wish I'd seen this a couple of weeks ago :-)!
Great video and good information! Maybe you could have shown even more footage of each connector. Special thanks to adding the chapters in this video! I will probably come back to this video several times in future!
Things like this lead to reliable repeatable printing & solutions to creative builds.
JST XH has a 2.50mm pitch.
It is a common mistake along the web stores, but it actually can ruin your day only if you assuming to replace a pin header with it or designing a custom PCB/prototyping on a perfboard.
Yep, correct. It actually says 2.5mm on my notes too but in the excitement of recording I said 2.54. Darn. Well hopefully it's not too critical for anyone.
I was looking to see if someone had pointed this out :)
Luckily you can usually get away with using 2.50mm-pitch JST-XH connectors in a 2.54mm-pitch PCB footprint where the connector has no more than a handful of pins - presumably depending mostly on the size of drilled holes on the board relative to the diameter of the connector's pins.
The difference between 2.50mm and 2.54mm is only [ (n-1) * 0.04mm ], where 'n' is the number of "circuits" on the connector, so the outer-most pins of a 4-pin connector (e.g. stepper motor) would be just 0.12mm offset from where they should be, which can be "shared" between the two ends (I think!). Most boards will be able to accept pins being 0.06mm off.
Most consumer 3D printers use connectors with 4 or 5 pins at most, so that won't be a big deal unless the board was designed with holes barely larger than the connector pins.
I imagine more people would notice and be aware of the difference if it was more of a problem!
(My printer uses a lot of hand-crimped connectors, even with a couple of my own custom PCBs, and the "largest" connector I have is 5 pins for the BL-Touch, for example.)
But you're right, it absolutely can ruin your day if you're dealing with more pins per connector!
I don't think my stock of JST-XH connectors goes beyond 6 circuits, but I have "KF2510" connectors in stock that go at least up to 10 circuits, which could definitely start being problematic at only 0.04mm per pin...
Most interesting video you've made so far!
You watch all 260+ videos? 😯
@@Vector3DP No, you're right... I skip unboxing videos...
My my, you have been busy. Thanks for watching 🙂
Great video. I've added it to my saved list.
Very informative and quality video but you forgot the bltouch connector and I think it is the smdu of course thank you very much correct me if I'm wrong
is it possible to repair a cut wire that heats the bed and nossel
Was hoping you would briefly discuss crimper selection for these connectors.
I'm looking into options for this at the moment. There are so many to cover though it might be difficult to do it justice without $$$$
Well I found that very informative and enjoyable.
Good to hear, thanks 🙂
Is there a tool to extract pin from receptacle 50-57-9402?
And how to extract it?
Thanks for great information. I can't tell you how many oddball connectors that I have because I didn't have this info. I also didn't know that ferrules have a special crimping tool. Never can have too many tools.
Great video, thank you. Unfortunately for me, you did not cover the specific connector I am looking for. This is the wire to board connector that connects the thermistor of the hot end to the interface board of the Creality CR10S Pro. It is 2 pin, has a latching tab and I believe might be JST. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you and keep up the great videos.
Thks a lot i needed badly something like that
Excellent video. Thanks for making it.
You sir are AMAZING! Thank you so much for this.
Great video and learned a great deal. That said, I am having a problem finding the right components. I have a Creality CR-10 and the stepper motor cable has failed. I have purchased a set of JXT-PH connectors and crimpers from Amazon but they appear to be 'shorter'. IDK. My first venture into this. I'd like to get it right since I'm sure this won't be the first time I'll 'wear out' a cable. So, I'm hoping the group watching this great video, or even Vector 3D, could recommend a source available through the internet. Ideally, I'd like a source I know if right. Perhaps a recommended good set of crimpers as well.
Adam where do you get your Molex SL connectors from? I am having a lot of difficulty finding a source for them.
I get mine from Farnell
@@Vector3DP Many thanks!
Thanks so much! This is so helpful!
Oddly I am modding a filament drier (Sunlu) and inside its small size appears to be like a JST ph...but pitch of 1mm???? so is that still a jst ph or something else?
While JST is a "Brand" name if I was told this uses a JST connector I would have an idea of what it is.
It is like how people call the 4 pin hard drive connector a "Molex" even though its not made by Molex but AMP.
Molex made a similar looking plug, but it has one chamfered edge while the AMP has 2 chamfered edges.
Perfect timing thanks
What does the ender 3 pro use?
8:00 “Wire trap connector” I think you mean Insulation Displacement Connector (IDC).
Molex list it on their own website as a wire trap connector. I guess different places call it different things.
on second thoughts, i think perhaps IDC is a type of WTC. it does sounds more generic and could apply to other similar methods
@@Vector3DP Yes. I believe “wire trap” refers to how it doubles-back on itself, but they make them where they fit in-line too.
Other kids of IDC:
Replacement plugs sold at hardware stores in North America which, when closed, clamp onto standard “lamp cord” to tap into the conductors. These let any mom or kid can replace a lamp plug. We also have “Quick Splice” connectors that clamp onto a wire and connect another wire merely by closing the latch. No stripping, taping, or soldering. If you look at most 4-pin power plugs on an old ATX power supply (the kind mostly used for IDE drives) you will often find that only the connector on the end is crimped while the others on the chain are IDC. Also, the IDE cables themselves are IDC as well as floppy cables and various header cables. You can even buy D-sub connectors with different ways to attach wires, like crimp, solder cup, and IDC (I use these a lot). Heck, even my PC Engine RAU-30 ROM² Adapter for NEC SuperGrafx has a huge through-hole IDC hidden inside… though it was poorly designed and the blades at the end lack support.
Thanks for a very detailed video. You should add affiliate links to Amazon to get a small kickback as I bet many people, just like myself, after watching this video will realize that they now need to buy correct connectors and wire for whatever project they are working on.
The problem is, I'd never really recommend getting these kinds of things from amazon, or even anywhere that does affiliate marketing as you'll likely just get knock-offs (aks clones) which are generally not great. I'd suggest going to proper electronics places like Farnell, CPC, RS, Mouser etc.
Now you got me thinking though, it might be a good idea for me to buy a large QTY from a reputable place and sell smaller sets on my own site, that might be useful.
Hi Adam, great video as normal. As discussed over on the Twitters a Duet3D Duet 3 uses a JST-VH 3.96mm for the hotend heaters & stepper motor connections. I didn't see this mentioned so thought I'd comment :D.
Also as a little helper for others for viewing this video at a later date, could you add timestamps for the sections this would be very helpful ;-).
Cheers,
J.
Those are something else. I am setting up a duet 3 on a CNC mill and they're pretty impressive. Also there is good reason because I had the older style melt multiple times at well below the amperage rating. Duet folks are aware that this is common with nema 23s and thats one of the reasons Duet 3 has these big boys.
I'll add timestamps when the video stops getting a boat load of views. If i change something now youtube will probably stop suggesting it.
I finally did it! Timestamps now in the description :)
JST-XH is 2.5mm spacing but it's commonly used as 2.54mm because hole with size in proto pcb there is no problem until you need 10 pin connectors.
hey I am trying to make some custom power cables for my computer but no where can i find Molex Mini fit Jr 6+2 connector (for using with gpu) are these produced by someone else perhaps?
they are not on molex's website as far as i can tell (series 5557)
Pc pci express you can just use 8 pin. 6+2 is just a thing power supply manufacturers do for flexibility amongst different setups.
Most useful video ever !
There are certainly PLENTY of old sound card to CD-ROM audio cables that use DuPont connectors to fit Molex SL. ;) Usually they are the kind with two different kinds on the drive end.
thanks, this is awesome!
Thank you! :) Most useful video out there on this subject... 👍👍👍👌
Excellent information! Great job
kk254 and mini latch are not the same mini latch is 2.5mm pitch I am not sure if they will fit in a 2.54mm pitch kk254
Thanks for the video. Really informative :)
Glad it was helpful!
Second a look at crimping tools, wide range in price. Presentation reminds me of John Ward, mean that as a compliment, sibscribed
thanks! extremely helpful :)
so...which connectors can you 3D print ?
On the standard connections (ring terminals, forks, faston/quick disconnect) you could use only the standard name, indicate size, etc. And brand only as reference, as they are standard from a milliard manufacturers. The others are not, and a brand is building the specification
Great video! Do you by any chance watch Explaining Computers? You have the exact same cadence and diction as that guy :)
Awesome video!! Just awesome
Glad it was useful
Amazing. Thank you.
Awsome overview! Saved for reference... :-)
Great resource! Unfortunately you failed to mention VGA. They are very cheap, reliable, and compatible with VGA cables that you can get for almost free pretty much everywhere. Anyone who works with computers will literally have a box of compatible cables just laying around. Any problem with the wiring loom, just throw away plug and play!
Ye, I didn't miss them.
Do you have like on aliexpress for Molex SL? (I found only official molex :/ 380euro..) Thanks
Saved. Liked. Subscribed.
Molex SL are wonderful, but they are bit pricey
Couldn't get more on time with Creality messing up the crimps on the CR-6 SE.
O rly? Not heard about that. Mine hasn't shipped yet...
@@Vector3DP tagged (on twitter) you in a post where the defective crimps are, also there are a bit more issues with the cr-6 :)
Great upload!!
Glad I saved it.
👍🏻🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🤓
Oh my god you’re a savior 😂
ohh, nooo :( is this series over? :D
Is genius I wish I'd seen this years ago
Very informational Video. Many thanks for that.
I linked it in an very important German Discord Channel.
He has an YT Channel too, but only in German Language.
Thank you good sir
Need links homie.
Why does it need a specific link? Is google not finding what you're after?
@@Vector3DP kinda yeah...
nice video
good usefull stuff
"Buy 10 and hope one of them fits"
Mirrors my experience with M3-M5 hex bolts...
you HAVE to solder your leads direct to the headbed. You can then use a connector in the middle of the cable where there is no wear and tear from the back and forth motion. This is how it is on the creality ender 3 printers.
I have a CR10 clone that had one of those typical connectors and just like every other printer with the connector on the head bed plate it eventually burned up even with a custom strain relief. Had temps very high when tested with an IR thermometer. After soldering the cables direct to the pins, cool as can be.
Not sure what you're talking about here?
Excelente.
I sugest you to change the title of the video to " Eletrical connectors guide"
Might bump up views ;)
What? by spelling it wrong? i dont get it.
@@Vector3DP noo i spelled it wrong not on purpose. I mean remove 3d printing from the title because you made a great video that aplies beyond the scope of 3d printing. But still having 3d printing in the title could help algorithm its chaotic it depends