ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.พ. 2022
- I've decided to go PRO with my cable connectors in the future. You'll see why.
► PCBWay $5 for 10 pieces www.pcbway.com
So a recent project started to fail due to a bad decision on which connectors to use. I've made a jump to some industry standard ones now.
► JST Plugs, sockets, with/out flying leads (wires)
Right angled PCB sockets (good for board edges): s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AryKgT
Plugs & sockets pre-wired, various ways: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Ap1q43
2-pin male plugs :www.banggood.com/custlink/GvK...
2-pin female sockets: www.banggood.com/custlink/DKG...
► IDC connectors
Plugs like the ones I show: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9gUW3D
Premade cables, various ways: www.aliexpress.com/item/33029...
Bare cables (fit your own plugs): www.aliexpress.com/item/32998...
IDC cable for Arduino use (prewired): www.banggood.com/custlink/Gmm...
► IDC Crimping Tool
Selection of crimps plus the tool: amzn.to/3LUmGxX
Just the crimper: amzn.to/3Iqby9N
Take a look around, lots of very similar tools, varying prices
► List of all my videos
(Special thanks to Michael Kurt Vogel for compiling this)
bit.ly/TH-camVideoList-RalphB...
► If you like this video please give it a thumbs up, share it and if you're not already subscribed please consider doing so and joining me on my Arduinite (and other μControllers) journey
My channel, GitHub and blog are here:
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• ralphbacon.blog
• github.com/RalphBacon
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PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE POSTING!
If you post a comment with a link to an external site (ie not TH-cam) then chances are that your comment will be auto-deleted by YT. Either don't include links in your comments or disguise it really, really well (those bots are clever) 😁
That is a setting on YOUR channel, not something TH-cam is doing.
@@ShainAndrews Agreed, I posted a link on Big Clive's channel today to eBay, no problem
The connector you showed in the video is the JST XH Series. The JST company makes a huge variety of connectors. Have a look a the JST-XA connector too. It has a locking tab you push to release the connector.
I'll have a look, although what I found on AliExpress et al were all XH style.
@@RalphBacon Buy directly from JST. They don’t have a minimum order, and it’s $10 shipping for orders under $100, free for orders above that. And the pricing is spectacular. Plus you can order the weird variants (like colors) that resellers generally don’t stock.
Yeah the XA are common on 3d printer motor and endstop wiring. Molex microfit 3.0 is great too but they are pricier than the Japanese solderless terminals haha. I buy pre-made microfit 3.0 cables for quick disconnect of higher gauge wires to save money.
Normally I'll use JST or screw terminals but I too got lazy with a couple of ACS712 sensors in a project. Didn't take long before I kicked my own @rse and soldered on some prefab JST plugs.
Those IDC connectors look great. Up to 5 minutes ago I had no idea how they were assembled, but will now have to order some up. As usual watching one of your vids ends up with me holding less folding!!
Sorry I caused you more financial loss, Matt, but you will thank me long term. Look at the comment here about the triangle on the IDC socket indicating pin 1.
Definitely single or dual pin headers with Dupont style would be a problem but if you gang more pins together with one shell, especially dual row, they aren't too bad. It also depends on the brand of pin/socket. Many Dupont clones are cheaply made and don't hold well. You can tell with what come with Arduino clones.
Crimping pins/sockets are a headache though if you customize your cable.
I totally agree to strain relief your hardwiring, especially with stranded wire.
I'll be trying some other plug/socket combos soon (dependent on AliExpress) so keep tuned for further updates on what works best!
From bitter experience, I learned there are two different pitches of IDC ribbon cable (and plugs and sockets). 1.0mm and 1.27mm. 1.27mm is our hobbyist preferred pitch as it matches the 2.54mm (0.1") plugs and sockets.
Yes, spot on. "Experience is a hard teacher", but you never forget the lesson learned, right? 😯
Thanks for your connector discussion and that tutorial on IDC connectors. I have not thought about the latter - thus an eye-opener for me. Cheers.
Another person's pain (mine) is another person's gain (yours). I am here to serve! 😮
I was specifically digging this subject yesterday, great to see you talking about it. I would like to mention that there are numerous standards of JST sockets/cables and all of them bring different styles. You can check for example those ones ZH , PH, SH, PHD, EH, XH & SM. I'm intending to use SM ones in my case, the big advantage being their design that let you (un)plug very easily by pressing the 2 handles (this is pretty much what we're used to see with light strips) .
That's the great thing about standards, there are so many to choose from!
@@RalphBacon The JST XA series are better than the XH ones if you plan on unplugging lots. They are latching connectors with a tab to squeeze to release mechanism, very easy to remove. Very similar footprint, just a little thicker. Different crimps to the XH though
For one off projects, I've been known to salvage cables and connectors from junked electronics such as VCR's, DVD players, etc.
Always a good source of components, those old VCRs!
Good to see your still making vids Ralph. Have not been doing much electronics of late so have not been following. Need to do a binge session and catch up on.
But I was connecting up a new controller to my 3D printer and ran into the problem you describe here. After seeing the mechanism on your vid I pried up at the base of the slot and it popped right off. Thanks!
Glad I could be of help, Dan! I'm experimenting with a couple of connectors, you may see them in a future video.
The things you’re referring to as JST connectors are the JST XH series, and their pitch is 2.50mm, not 2.54mm. Depending on your PCB hole size, you can fit up to around a 10-pin 2.50mm-pitch connector into a 2.54mm-pitch footprint.
JST themselves state, Antonio, that these are 2.54mm (03 - Pitch / Style: 2.54mm) although there are others with 2.50mm which I was very careful to avoid!
www.jst.co.uk/products.php?filter=625&cat=30&searchString=
@@RalphBacon But in the video, you’re showing JST XH, which are 2.50mm. The handful of other models they have are irrelevant to this point.
Interesting.
Look at this ad on Amazon, Antonio (just one I found). It states JST XH *2.54mm* pin spacing, which they all pretty much do:
amzn.to/3spwTdM
Or this one from AliExpress (which I bought and probably showed in the video), also XH but 2.54:
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AdiVBP
I'm wondering whether the 0.04mm makes any actual difference (especially at low pin counts) and it "fits" (which it does, without any forcing)?
Those connectors add the finishing touches to a project. Very handy tip on the JST, I shall use that tip on my projects. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this video. I am currently putting som battery management equipment together on my boat, and I was wondering about the near-permanence of the jst connectors, and that I'd need to be making and breaking these during the teething-phase of this job! This video provided the answer! THANK YOU!
Glad I could help! My pain is your gain! 😯
I have to say Ralph (whom I have a hell raising cat named) that your genius and humor brighten my days.
I was thinking about buying an idc kit for breaking out pins in 3d printers when I upgrade them to simplify the process. Make an idc cable to a breakout board and then connect everything to that.
That's a great idea! If you look at the photos of my ESP32 Web Radio I use two custom IDC cables to connect the 'motherboard' to the 'daughterboard' with the screen as well as the MP3 decoder. It certainly gives you room to manoeuvre ✔
There seem to be precious few videos on how to turn projects into usable finished objects, at least that I can find, so this is helpful. I've always appreciated your efforts to provide complete ideas and projects.(e.g. your esp32 web radio and home alone), there are others out there, but there are a lot more that seem more like an instructable with motion. Thank you.
Awesome, thank you!
100% agree - YT and its peers are awash with prototyping videos, but look for "productisation" videos and you will find very little.
The secret to reliable dupont connectors is to not use individual connectors. If you have a 4x1 row of 2.54mm pin headers, use a 4x1 dupont connector instead of four individual connectors. Then the required force to remove the cable is much higher. It basically becomes the same as IDC. You can also key the multi gang dupont connectors using plugs and a corresponding missing pin on your header.
Yes, that does work better than individual cables but even so, Duponts need to be only used on a breadboard; some of them are really, really thin.
@@RalphBaconAlmost every PC motherboard in existence uses dupont connectors for various things. They are extremely common in production electronics.
Good advice Ralph, I tend to use Dupont for a programming headers on my PCB's but JST for the rest and the difficulty in unplugging hasn't bothered me so far!...cheers.
Macaroni Cheese!!!!
Thanks for sharing, Andy, you must have stronger finger nails than me!
Well, if you hadn't made that mistake, we would not have learned from it! Thanks for sharing your failures along with your successes, they do instruct us (although sometimes painfully).
Very true! In the past I've not had much trouble, but this time it really was the pits when I had to add that additional circuitry!
Some nice inputs there, Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Ralph, you must have been watching me over the last few weeks ... I have used 100's of Dupont Sockets and plugs on my Model Railway Electronics ... but ive know kicked them out after weeks of problems and gone with the JST XH connectors and I completely rewired and obtained new PCB's from JLCPCB ... I have started using between 3 pin and 12 pin JST connectors and made up my own crimps wires and I also find after a TH-cam vid on making the crimps the correct way I have had about 5 sockets fail after making over 200 crimps to sockets ... the kits are available on ebay for a box of 1 to 5 way connects but I also got seperate 6way, 8 way, 10 way, and 12 way ... they are brilliant and now this section of the layout works ...Regards John
So you too, John, learned the same lesson as me (also the hard way) that those JST plugs/sockets are made for a reason (and DuPonts are so unreliable!).
And you are making your own crimped wires - kudos to you.
I agree whole heartedly! Dupont connectors vary greatly in quality. I purchased high quality Dupont leads from Korea for breadboarding. No mor hunting for bad connections.
It certainly pays to pay a bit more for quality connectors.
That's very good advice from you, thanks!!!
Glad it was helpful!
I can thoroughly recommend JST connectors as well, having used them in many projects.
And I will be using them from now on; designing a project right now that includes them!
Most of the IDC ribbons I make up are DB9 (DE9 to be correct apparently) and at work I just smack them shut with a well calibrated hammer tap. You’ve inspired me to be more professional and use my vice. This may please the desk jockeys who’re unfortunate enough to share an open plan environment with production, calibration, and repair benches because some interior designer presumably watched too much Bones or CSI. I’d prefer an NCIS situation where desk jockeys are well removed and loud music can be played . Another great video Ralph 🙂
Hammer tap? HAMMER tap? OMG I said you had to *carefully squeeze* the two parts together!!! 🤦♂️ I'm sure your colleagues will thank me when you start using that vice (or buy a proper sub-£20 pliers-crimper).
Great video. I've been using Dupont connectors in my prototyping for a long time now and I find that they are very good as long as the parts aren't subjected to movement. Another good solution is latching 2.54 connectors (Molex clones), which are typically used on PC fans. They provide a durable keyed connection and as an added bonus they can handle up to 4 amps per pin (if you're brave!). Best of all, you can get the headers in 90-degree flavour so your connector sits flush with your PCB, which is great for low profile builds.
Yes, all good points, you have obviously had the required experience!
I also now use mainly KF2510 connectors (also available straight and right angled) as these are easier to connect but still (sort of) latch (friction fit). You can also buy pre-wired connectors in 2,3,4... etc configurations so you don't even need to bother crimping the plug wires.
Eeeeek! Seeing someone making IDC cables with a vice brings back memories from doing this 30+ years ago. For bigger ones, we had a proper two-piece tool that kept the parts in alignment, but for small ones like that we did the same way, loose in the vice.
It seems the old ways are sometimes the most pragmatic ways, Julian!
Excellent video - thank you. I'm having the same problem with Dupont connectors which are still desirable due to their compact design (could be improved with more robust contact elements in my opinion). I have however had some success by lightly tinning the faces of the pins - very quick and easy and makes a huge difference to holding the connectors on.
It seems not all Dupont cables are created equally. I have some (relatively expensive) ones that are a joy to use. Others, from you know where, are terribly thin and prone to breaking; just about OK for breadboards!
@@RalphBacon Do you have a link to these as it's not easy to tell the difference on web sites?
For one-off Arduin-ish projects, intended to be permanent, I use wire-wrap. Reliable removable low-volume minimum height connection. Also allows multiple connections to a single post, depending on post length. _NOT for systems in development, and NOT for things you want more than one or two of.
I've never, ever used wire-wrap in anger, even though I once had a little tool thing with the wire spool on it. It just seemed so fiddly. But you've mentioned it so we will investigate!
@@RalphBacon we use wire wrap in telecommunications- the wires stay connected even when mildly disturbed and I’ve got circuits that have been wired up for 30+ years that still work perfectly.
Ralph, great to see this info on making ribbon and multicore cabling work for electronics projects - to put it in a nutshell, connectors for projects are a recurring nightmare!
Dupont connectors are ideal for prototyping on breadboards but they are easily displaced or pulled out or deformed, so using them anywhere there are frequent circuit changes, vibration or finger-poking access always leads to problems. JSTs do seem to be a better solution, small but with positive locking - but there are two problems with them. (1) There are so many variants and (2) Many are not breadboard friendly - meaning that you can start with a dupont setup and then have to redesign the connector set if you want a permanant setup. Also, panel mounting JSTs is possible but painful for where your project offers plugable off-board ports. Nevertheless, Ralph, I agree that they are probably about the least-worst option.
Though..... lately for protos I have taken to superglueng spring loaded DIL connectors (similar to, but a lot smaller than, Wago 221 connectors used for household electrical wiring joiners) to broadboards. for small wires those grab the wires really tight and never let go until you activate the release lever. That option works well where comparatively small numbers of off-board connections need to be made in such a way they can be undone if needs arise. However, using those does kind of close the door to wholesale updates of your project and probably also to reuse of the breadboard. Nevertheless they are a good a option. N.B. I have found that you can also use Wago 221s as well for small gauge wires such as used in electronics projects - they will hang on to and provide connections for our very small wire sizes - which is pretty amazing!
For external box-mounted connectors where size is not an issue I use connectors that commonly sell under the banner "Aviation connectors" on ebay and elsewhere. Good sturdy low-cost solderable plug/sockets with wide selection of pin counts and the plugs have a locking collar too.
The JST XH range is supposed to be 2.50mm pitch (according to JST) but everyone sells it as a 2.54mm compatible plug. It certainly fits fine onto Arduino pins/sockets.
I've never used Wagos (or clones of) on anything except household main wiring, I must admit. But those 'aviation connectors' look very heavy duty if I'm looking at the right ones - a bit like metallic DIN plugs/sockets?
You mention in the video, that you recommend putting on the strain relief for the IDC connector. I have found, that these connectors are sold both with or without the stain relief. The regular connector with strain relief is used most. However there exists male connectors for the PCB that has clamps on, that go over the female connector after it is seated. This connector with clamps works without the strain relief on the female connector. There os not room for both strain relief and clamps. You have to pick one.
Interesting, thanks for sharing.
I've used Dupont mulri-way connectors from time to time for off-board connections, and if there are more than 4 or 5 connectors in the housing then there is a reasonable amount of spring pressure to stop them flying off, but those single wire connectors are really only suitable for prototyping. In a pinch you can secure them with a blob of hot glue, which isn't too hard to get off if you need to separate them. But proper locking connectors are the way ahead. I've used the IDC connectors before and they are the "proper" way to take multiple signals between boards, but are a bit of a hassle if you want to connect individual front panel controls to a board, as separating the strands of the IDC cable usually works OK but then all of a sudden it splits and you've got a bare wire!
I once built a sort of mini-sythesiser that had lots of off board connections, and I just put holes in the PCB next to the connections so you could thread wires through them before solderng, so they acted as strain relief. You can do this with proto-board or veroboard of course and its very effective at stopping wires snapping off. Another way is to use "veropins" or similar then heat-shrink over them to support the joint.
You've described all the ways I've attached wires on a PCB, Ian! None of them were perfect, but some better than others.
What I wanted (and I believe I now have) is a mechanism that is strong, reliable and will allow me to disconnect the wires without desoldering them. We shall see how my next project fares! 😏
Molex makes a series of latching connectors. The latch is a positive clamp that will absolutely not come off. To remove it you just squeeze the latch and pull off the connector. Very easy, doesn't take much more width than the connectors you're using now. They are available in 2.54 (0.1 inch) and 3mm sizes at least, and probably others. You might give them a try on your next project. I use them all the time on mine. Digikey and Mouser stock these in the US, but I'm sure you can get them in the UK as well.
I'm investigating some others already as a result of @Antonio Tejada's suggestions. I see if I can find the ones you mention too.
I've glued Dupont connectors together to make a multi-way connector. A number of them together seems to make them a tighter fit, and has worked well enough for the projects I've done so far. I'm too tight to buy IDC cable and connectors when I have old computer cables around. I've re-located the plugs and they seem to be fine if you're careful.
Multiway headers (no, John, not individual ones glued together, done that, not great) have worked for me in the past, as there is more resistance to being pulled off the header pin, but there is a limit. JST so much better IMHO.
I had the same problem as a beginner and I totaly agree JST is the way to go.
JST rulz 🤘🏻
You can still use the pin headers, then if you want more resilience, you can solder a JST pigtail to the headers, along with the strain relief you mentioned.
Indeed, that was my Plan B for this particular project so I didn't have to re-do the entire PCB. Maybe I won't need to open the front case again...
Just an aside : if you solder the PCB connectors the wrong way around, it is possible to lever the plastic box out and flip it rather than de-soldering and soldering the connector, which can be a pain. Just be careful if there are any tracks underneath so that you don't damage it with your lever.
OMG the word "lever" and "PCB" in the same sentence! But if you have done it, I guess it must work as a last resort. I'll bear it in mind.
@@RalphBacon Ha ha ... I meant a rigid knife or spudger something like that , not a crowbar 😂
I don't now if it is ready mentioned but there is an IDC connector crimping tool for this,
so if you have to crimp lots of connectors is handy to have one in your toolbox.
Indeed, I have one, such as it is. Works OK, I guess, but a vice works just as well for the occasional crimp (which is what I would expect us hobbyists to do). But for under £20 they are available from Amazon.
I use the 2mm jst connectors, the pliers part of my wire strippers work well for disconnecting them, just rock it back and forth a couple times.
Ah, yes, the magic rocking pliers trick! If you have a method of separating the two halves of a JST connector (even a 2mm type) then you have a solution!
You can use the DuPont connectors that come as 2, 3,4,5,6 and more wires in one connector - they are I bit fiddly to make but hold better than single ones side by side , a dob of hot melt on the side holds it the plug in place .
I think IDC plugs are always an even number so if you want 11 pins you have to use a 12 pin connector and leave one blank- could be wrong as I have never made my own ! They do look easy though and no fiddling around trying to crimp the tiny connectors that DuPont use - the right crimping tool makes it a bit easier though !
Yes, one downside of IDC is the even pin count and you can't get them easily below 6-pins (2 rows of 3).
Great learning!
Learning the hard way for me!
Andreas Spiess has a partial solution to the DuPont-style connector. For anything requiring more than 3 conductors, he'd crimp a custom cable with an extra (open) pin. He'd also pull out a corresponding pin on the PCB header. Makes it way easier to deal with insertion and removal correctly, especially since polarity is usually important. Doesn't really deal with accidentally pulling off though.
It’s not a Spiess life hack but a well-established method of keying connectors. ;) The name-brand vendors sell connector keying plugs (which block off a hole in the connector housing) precisely for this purpose.
As for popping off, that’s strictly a result of the cheap Chinese clones, which are all very low force, and wear out almost instantly. The original name brand products a) don’t wear out as fast, and b) come in different force levels: high-force for low pin counts, medium force for medium counts, and low force for high pin counts. The Chinese ones seem to me to be similar to the low force ones, which aren’t intended for anything under 40 pins. The high-force contacts are what Amphenol recommends for 1-20 pin connectors, but the Chinese don’t offer them.
@@tookitogo Fair enough. He's just the first one I saw using it. Good to know about the high-force connectors though. I have some cheap crimps which work fine for prototyping, but I doubt it would work for long in production use.
Quite often I use a 3-way connector for a two-wire connection, with the outer pin 'dead'. That way if you connect the wrong way round nothing bad happens.
@@RalphBacon Very smart. I’ve done that too on occasion.
Bear in mind that it’s just the cheap Chinese “DuPont” connectors that are unreliable as hell. The original product, the Mini-PV series sold today by Amphenol, are far, far, far more reliable. (Their contacts come in three levels of force: low-force for high pin count connectors (40-72 pins), high-force for medium pin counts (10-50 pins), and ultra-high-force for low pin counts (1-20 pins).) The original Mini-PV contacts are rated for 1000 mating cycles, which they accomplish by using a beryllium copper contact spring inside a brass body. The cheap Chinese clones are all-brass, which deforms instead of springing back, which is why they loosen so very quickly, literally after just a few cycles.
With that said, the real Mini-PV connectors are quite expensive, so for most things I use various JST connectors, and lots of Molex KK 254 and clones thereof (like the common KF2510 from China).
Yes, others have mentioned the KK254 although I've yet to find pre-crimped wires for it (and I shudder at crimping more wires).
I've got some 'better quality' DuPont cables too (thicker overall wire, more strands inside) but they are, as you say, more expensive. I wish I'd used those in my project!
@@RalphBacon You can readily buy KK254 clones on aliexpress, including pre-crimped leads, under the KF2510 name. Quality-wise, the KK254 clones are much closer to original Molex than DuPont clones are to original Amphenol.
But I must also say, if you haven’t been able to find pre-crimped KK254 leads (using genuine Molex), it’s because you haven’t looked. Many vendors make them. Digi-Key, for example, has 900 types of them in stock. (I suspect they’re manufactured to order.) Mouser has 42. Molex itself sells a whopping three. :p
I must admit I hesitate to buy from (or even look at) Digi-Key (or other 'big name' vendors) given their high prices and even higher delivery charges. They are not interested in hobbyist volumes. But I will look for the KF2510 clones on AliExpress (they don't care who they sell to).
@@RalphBacon Hobby and prototyping volumes is _literally_ Digi-Key’s business (and the reason they’re expensive) - large volume is the purview of resellers you’ll likely never deal with (like Avnet), and the sales departments of the manufacturers themselves. When you order ten thousand or a million pieces of something, you skip the middlemen altogether.
Digi-Key (and by extension, Mouser likely as well, since they always follow each other) has free shipping to the UK for orders £33 and up. So just aggregate a few projects and order at once. That’s what I do to get parts here in Switzerland, where it’s free shipping for orders €50 and up. Critically, Digi-Key (and Mouser) include customs, so no surprise customs and duty bills on delivery! (That’s a HUGE problem here in Switzerland with most foreign vendors, I dunno how the UK is.)
The other tip I have is to keep a shopping list of low-priority stuff to restock, so that when you’re not quite at the minimum order for free shipping, you can pad it with one of those things. Common resistor values, wire, solder, flux, etc. Note that for many components (SMD resistors and chip caps being prime examples), the volume discounts are massive, such that buying 5 pieces can end up costing the same or more than 10 or 15… Digi-Key’s website is, at least, kind enough to tell you if buying more will cost you less.
I used to order more stuff from aliexpress, but as time goes on, I’m preferring to buy quality from Digi-Key, because crapola parts end up wasting too much time and nerves. Sure, a Chinese DuPont contact for making prototyping jumpers costs 2¢ versus 50¢ for a real Mini-PV, but the Chinese contact is loose after 10 insertion cycles (and never was tight to begin with), versus 1000 for the Mini-PV. When you factor in the time spent assembling the jumper, it’s stupid to use the cheap ones. Same with a circuit that misbehaves because your op-amp is counterfeit, or a power transistor that shorts out and fries your circuit because it’s actually a small signal transistor hidden in a power transistor housing.
What I do like AliExpress for is the things that simply aren’t sold anywhere else!
Agreed, I've been burned by breadboard jumpers multiple times.
Sometimes it's not just the jumpers but the awful breadboard connections too, weak springs.
I use hot glue to secure the DuPont wires when I use them,works well.CNC from pcbway looks exciting.
what is the difference between glued dupoint vs soldered wire to the board? idea of connectors is: to (dis)connect when needed ;-)
Multiway headers (NOT individual ones glued together) have worked for me in the past, as there is more resistance to being pulled off the header pin, but there is a limit. JST so much better.
Yes the CNC / 3D offerings from PCBWay look very exciting indeed, I might get to use them one day. ✔
I always plan on at least one respin of the board. I have just accepted that. The duponts are better if you use (for example 5 pin header) one connector instead of using separate connector for each pin. I agree the jst a better, it observes polarity. How come you mask the screw contacts on your circuit board, makes a good ground connection ?
1. The screw connections (the holes with the white silk screen circle around them) were not for grounding, not with mains electricity on half the board. 🤦♂️ They are without any kind of electrical connection to the remaining circuit, in this case.
2. Yes, multiway sockets with DuPonts are _better_ relatively speaking but still not like a JST. We'll see what I say after my next project which uses JST sockets!
Very good point albeit one that honestly shouldn't have been needed, but definitely was 😁
But, I find it funny that you promoto PCBWAY while showing of a PCB that is made by JLCPCB 😅
Oops. Don't say anything, perhaps no one will notice.
I've always taken Dupont connectors as being for "development only".
By all means, arduino, breadboard project friendly.
But not for a finished project.
You simply don't see them in good quality production electronics for good reason. And.. If they are using hot glue as an answer to that.. Then that's not great either.
Plenty of alternative connectors are available that are designed for the task.
BTW Ralph. Thank you for the audio board PCB. It arrived in quick time. Just waiting for the boards from China. 👍
Glad the Bob turned up, Jason. Good luck with soldering the tiny BT module onto it - do-able though!
Yes, using DuPont/Hot Glue in a finished project is definitely not the way I will be going again! Probably. 😮
Very nice. Thank you.
Thank you too!
I bought this JST connector socket. Cables were also soldered to the sockets and secured with shrink tubing.
But that's also a stupid idea, because the cables break off at the socket because they don't belong there. Or when unplugging, I pull individual pins out of the socket.
This doesn't happen if the sockets are on the circuit board.
I have a couple of sets of prewired JSTs too (both plugs and sockets) but the sockets have been designed to be used with flying leads (so are NOT just PCB sockets with soldered leads). I guess we have to be careful what we get sold out there 😮
Idc is good an cheap option. I started using that as coonectors in projects.
Yes, and they seem quite reliable.
Molex KK/254 would be a better connector, it's designed to be easy to plug and unplug, keyed orientation, and mechanical friction catch. Also in 2.54mm pitch. Cheap and used a lot too.
Yes, the Molex kk/254 is a good solution, _if you are willing to make your own cable terminations_ because I've not yet found pre-terminated cables (unless you can prove me wrong).
Ironically, I used to make all my own Molex-style cables, I have a really good ratchet crimper and everything but that is probably the problem - I've done it too many times, it takes forever (I solder the wire after crimping) and, well, I suppose I just cannot be bothered with all the faffing any more! Sigh. Yes, I know, man up, Bacon. 😁
@@RalphBacon Haha; i get you! The KK-254 crimps were the first ones I ever tried, wasn't too annoying and I had a better success rate than with other JST's, so I kinda like this connector.
One more nag, JST XH is 2,5mm pitch by the way, not 2,54, the latter are the fake ones :) You can't see the difference until you go to connectors of 8+ ways, then it starts to not fit. For the typical 2 or 3 ways, it doesn't matter.
Thanks for the vids!
@@RalphBacon Molex makes tons of precrimped wires, you can get them on Digi-Key, etc. Also, TE makes a compatible series, MTA-100, which includes an IDC version (IDC in the sense of “insulation displacement connector” in general, not the specific dual-row ribbon plugs you call “IDC” in the video), where you insert wires into slots very much like punchdown blocks on RJ-45 jacks.
The IDC sockets have a small molded triangle which denotes the location of wire 1. Correct orientation prevents making wrong handed cables. As for DuPont connectors It is possible to CA glue them together or simply buy multi pin housings. This has the benefit of multiplying the break out force for the assembly.
Great tip about the Pin 1 location, Rob. Regarding gluing DuPonts together, that's what I did in that project I showed but it just made the problem worse! Poor quality clone DuPonts probably the issue.
@@RalphBacon It is. See my standalone comment about the original DuPont connectors (the Amphenol Mini-PV series). I use them at work and they’re worlds better than the clones. (They’re also vastly more expensive.) The clone housings are actually not bad, the contacts are where you really see the difference.
Clearly connector selection is a very important part of any design! If you spend the time, you will find that there are hundreds if not thousands of types of connectors, many of them have locks that are better than friction locks and are designed for easy removal (usually by pressing on a little tab to undo the lock tab). Usually the problem is making a selection from the dozens of connectors that are either the same, or so similar that choosing 1 becomes a task all in itself!
Don't forget that wire and cable selection is just as important as connector selection, and often even more difficult than connector selection. :-)
Just what we need, a huge selection of plugs and sockets when all we really want to do is MAKE stuff! Sigh. More haste and less speed will allow us to build a better project though.
@@RalphBacon Yup, early in my career as and EE, I thought, "why so many wire types", and now nearly 40 years later, I still think, geehs, why so many wire types. Same thing applies to connectors. :-)
Love your "getting away with it" comment!
Yes, so true. Never again. Do it right!
At 15:20 can't salvage the plug?
I have moved the plug for an IDE cable for two drives..
The cable was long enough in total, but the middle plug was too close to the motherboard end. I carefully removed the middle plug, then aligned it where I wanted it, and applied som pressure to it. Worked like a charm 😀
Sometimes the crimps on the ide connector cut the tiny wires in half. But remaining connected due to the connector plug.
Removing the plug can create a disconnection on the cable so it's not recommended to remove and reuse the same cable for that reason.
@@jparky1972 I guess you are right. My optios was either
- try to modify the cable
- order an execcivly long cable,
- ordering parts, but back then online shopping was in an early phase.
I had trouble in two areas: removing the strain relief saddle and then prising the plug apart without it all falling to bits.
At the end of the day I decided life was too short to keep doing this and just cut it off and discarded it and promised myself to be more careful the next time round. 😉
Oh, as Jason says, the cable that had been pierced was no good to man or beast.
@@RalphBacon. I was building my PC that day. I couldn't use the cable I had.
I could"ve just ordered a much longer cable to reach within me PC cabinet, or give it a try, then order it if it didn't work.
I was probably lucky with my cable, but it solved my issue that day.
I used JST's. A bit tricky crimping pins at first
"A bit tricky" is probably the understatement of the year, Rich_Lex!
@@RalphBacon Still, in comparison with Dupont crimping, it's a lot easier to crimp JST XH.
Been using KF2510 connectors quite successfully for low pin counts, used IDC for everything else...
Yes, they look pretty good too, but I don't want to have to crimp my own leads! Lazy or what?
Hello Ralph. Dupont connectors pop off when you look at them wrong. Therefore I agree with you 110%, never use Dupont connectors on your finish product.
if you agree 100% then considering max(agreement) = 100% you overflow it and you end up with agree = 10% (if it is unsigned, otherwise you go to negative agreement) ;-)
Drat! I just looked at a DuPont on my breadboard and guess what? It's now lying disconnected in mid-air. So you were right. ✔
On the JST connectors you could use a small file and just file down the socket's nubs a little.
I specifically didn't want to adapt the _socket_ because then we have burnt our bridges, so to speak, John. By amending the header plug we can always replace that if required.
One way to make DuPont connectors a bit more reliable, and make getting the connections correct a bit more foolproof, is to buy some empty DuPont shells in various lengths and pop the connectors out of the single wire shells and insert them into the multi-pin shells.
That way, provided you get the header shell oriented correctly, when it goes on you know you’re connecting the right wire to the right pin, and the additional mechanical friction caused by multiple pins in one header shell makes it much harder for one wire to pop off unexpectedly - and it saves you having to work out which pin that wire should have connected on to.
Having said that, JST connectors are much nicer and look more professional. Crimping your own connectors is a pain, but can be done (the guy with the Swiss accent has done quite a lot of research on crimp tools for JST and DuPont on his channel). The right angle version of the JST PCB connectors can also be very handy with some PCB layouts.
One thing to look out for with JSTs is the number of pins is very confusing. What JST refer to as a 2S connector has 3 pins, 3S has 4 pins etc. so, it’s very easy to order some connectors and find that they have one more pin than you expected, which can be a problem if you need a plug to fit into an existing socket, and discover that it won’t fit!
Your comment could have been written by me, Pete. I've done the singular to multiple conversion, works OK, certainly better than gluing singles together with hot glue!
My next project is using JST plugs and sockets so we shall see in a few weeks how it goes. These projects always take longer than you might think!
I even have a proper crimper for header pins but I find it so long winded and boring (I did loads when I used PIC chips 10 or more years ago) and I loathe doing them now.
Good heads up regarding that confusing numbering method. Counting from 1 to 50 wasn't broke the last time I checked so I wonder why they did it this way? 😜🤦♂️
You might consider doing a video on the different connectors that are out their.
If I ever use any different ones that would be a great idea 👍🏻
@@RalphBacon - Thanks, Ralph
@@tubeDude48 Ralph doesn’t know enough about them to do a proper overview. Search for a web page by Matt Millman about DuPont and similar: he’s got the best overview out there.
@@tookitogo - It's not for me, it's for newbies.
@@tubeDude48 Shouldn’t newbies get accurate information, too?
you are ABSOLUTELY right about DuPont. I never use them for the production. Usually JST both 2.54 and 1.5mm. With IDC: the cable is... so stiff! If the insulation was kind of silicone... ;-) Also: IDC requires 2 rows what might be a challenge with general PCB you buy on ebay or so
Thanks for sharing and I agree that IDC cable can be quite stiff (remember all those floppy drive cables from the 1990s?).
@@RalphBacon (un)fortunately I do - I am from 70s ;-)
JST are 2.50mm pitch, despite what Chinese vendors say!
@@tookitogo stupid Wikipedia: "JST connectors are electrical connectors manufactured to the design standards originally developed by J.S.T. Mfg. Co. (Japan Solderless Terminal). JST manufactures numerous series (families) and pitches (pin-to-pin distance) of connectors."
@@zyghom The ones in this video, the XH series, is 2.50mm. JST makes only a handful of 2.54mm pitch connectors. (Trust me, I’ve spent far, far, FAR more time studying JST’s catalog than you have spent looking them up on Wikipedia. ;) )
From what I've seen, most commercial electronics will use JST connectors with hot glue to secure the connection. That's what I would do for a final product once all the prototyping and testing is done. If you're feeling confident, you can also just solder the connections and use hot glue for strain relief.
Oh, I'm ALWAYS confident that THIS time will be the LAST time I ever open the front panel. Until I do.
so helpful 4 inspiration! no full auto sledge hammer bammer? Go Team!!
Glad you found it inspirational! ✔
I dont even use dupont for prototyping anymore, had so many issues, maybe the ones I got were of bad quality
There are some very good DuPont cables out there but are eye-wateringly expensive (especially when we've become so used to the cheap Chinese ones). But they do work so much better. About £14 for 120 from Amazon (and other sellers such as DigiKey, Mouser, RS Components).
i use RJ45 when I know I need several connections, that are not within the box and can spread longer than 10 cm. easy to make cables for, and a rock solid connection.
can use stp, ustp utp etc.
within the box, JST is great, so is idc flatcable.
Hmm, RJ45 for cable runs between boxes? Never would have considered that. Standard UTP cable?
IDC,JST is my prefer choice , by the way what is your video software use for this video.Thank's again
I'm using JST on my next project! I use OBS for my recording software as do 99.9% of most TH-camrs I reckon! 🎥
@@RalphBacon I've just downloaded yesterday, and learing it, usually I use HitFilm Pro. Thank's again for helping!
when i mount something on the board itself then i use dupond. External Power is via Pluggable Screw terminal from phoenix contacts or dc barrel jack
I no longer use DuPont cables except for prototyping on a breadboard. They are too flimsy for real projects.
After watching the video, I can tell you what I do. Use a pair of tweezers appropriately sized to squeeze the 2 tabs you’ve cut. That will free the plug letting you pull it out. Hope that helps. I think that’s my first tip on this channel.
That's a great idea! Hopefully not the last suggestion you'll make here, Mike! At least it didn't involve any C++ coding 😮
I'll just advise to be careful when saying 'JST' connector as they make a ridiculous number of connector types, similar to Molex and other similar companies. I can't confirm this, but it looked to me as if you were using JST-XH connectors which are 2.5mm pitch, not 2.54mm and a quick check of their Crimp and IDC wire to board connectors seems confirm this. They may be harder to source, but is seems like a JST RF connector might be more ideal for your needs, or if you don't mind your connectors being 2.0mm pitch, a JST PH connector(for future projects). The don't lock quite like the JST XH connectors and as pretty easy to come by as I believe they are commonly used for smaller battery packs. As for the ribbon cables, I guess my experience has been the opposite as they can be a pain to remove and I've bent more pins on my raspberry pi trying to remove those 40 pins connectors than I ever have with the JST connectors, but they can be nice as you don't have to use the connectors with the ribbons if you have a bit of patience to ensure that all the wires are aligned. Can be great if you want to use the connector, but need something with a bit more flexibility.
Great info, dupont cables are horrible for 'finished' projects and always check your connectors for current per circuit ratings. Going with an improperly spec'd connector is right up there with using undersized wires for me.
Hmm, you are not the first to say that JST XH are 2.50mm not 2.54 (and JST does indeed state this) but all the sources I've found all sell the XH as 2.54mm - perhaps the 0.04mm just doesn't matter too much for a few pins? Even after 10 pins we are still only 0.4mm 'out'.
I'm also looking at some locking connectors that are much easier to unlock - when they arrive off that slow boat from China. All will be revealed some time in the future.
Ribbon cables are meant to be fitted and left alone, I reckon. When you try to remove the plug it acts as a lever against the remaining pins and can easily bend them as you have described. Nightmares from the 1990s and IDE cables from the PCs I used to build...
I wish I could find a larger version of the JST-SH connector used for STEMMA QT/QWIIC sensor boards. They are a lot easier to separate than their larger XH or PH cousins, but those pins are the worse and the SR(I believe) IDC version of the socket isn't much better.
I hope the new connectors you're trying out work out well. I've spent far too many hours looking at connector types, but better to spend time now to get it right than discover serious issues later when I try to use them to deliver power from this 300W power supply. I've already been down that road with the leads that came with my benchtop PSU.
I have several "simil JST" like connectors, and guess, some of them have centred row of pin (respect to the plastic connector) and other I think 0.5 or 1mm shifted, so in addition to the plastic safe guide the pins can't be reversed at all because the holes did not fit. But then you MUST have the female and male connectors either shifted or centred. I had to rebuild several connectors because I just did not notices when crimping that I used a shifted male and a centred female connector. JST are really a nightmare for me, especially when suppliers post wrong specs or fake photos that does not correspond to the item they sell....😫
I'm using a different connector on my latest project, the JST-XH. Allows one-way round connections, easier to unplug but still won't come apart and crimping was easy. Full details in a future project about my Storage Bins Lid monitor!
It makes no sense to spend money on a good connector and then to ruin it. Slip a small screwdriver between the connector and housing catch and that side will release; repeat for the other side to remove the connector or use two screwdrivers.
Well, "ruin" is perhaps a slightly emotive word here, Byron; I'd prefer "customise". 😉 What I'm doing is removing the "locking" bit of the socket so we can get the thing apart again whilst we service the project - yet we are retaining the inherent friction fit that JST plugs and sockets give us. Note that I only "customise" the plug (which we can replace for an un-customised one) and not the (PCB) socket.
All this said, I've been investigating the KF2510 'Molex-clone' plug and socket which seems to give us the friction fit without the faff - I'll report back in due course. Give me your feedback when I do that video too, as I hear your reservations about this 'fix'.
I tin the Dupont connectors to get them to jam into the Arduino connection more tightly
Wow! I hope your Arduino has better quality connectors than the DuPonts you are "jamming" in there, Jonathan, I'd hate to have to replace those!
@@RalphBacon do you reckon it'll break the arduino connection?
Well, anything that puts force on those pin headers is going to reduce their life.
A better would be to buy some _quality_ DuPont-style cables (take a deep breath, you're talking about £15 for 120) and reserve those for the Arduino headers. Look here: amzn.to/3BXPtgq
I have used IDC connectors for many things. Please go to Amazon or your favorite electronics supplier and purchase anIDC Crimping tool. They are quite inexpensive, around $16 USD. They will properly crimp cables for small to big. I got my crimper so I can build 50 pin cables (for 8 inch floppy drives).
Sorry, Robert, "floppy drive"? Sounds rude.
But here's a link for the crimper, for those wanting a dedicated crimp tool: amzn.to/3Iqby9N or amzn.to/3LUmGxX
@@RalphBacon Obviously I am referring to 8 inch floppy disks and the associated hardware from the 1970's. Yes, I still have my 1975 purchased IMSAI 8080 system. I am in the process of bringing up that old gal, so I can transfer a lot of my stuff from the 70's/80's to more modern storage.
@@RalphBacon BTW: Great channel, like the pure electronics projects!
The easy way to connect wires to a pcb is have a hole the size of the wires outer insulation and a track pad close by. So wire goes through the pcb bends 90 deg and solders to the track. The board provides the strain relief. If its passes vibration test for aircraft use should be no problem in your box. :-)
I've used _two_ holes, so the cable goes in and back up again - rock solid but somewhat unwieldy - you can never unplug it if you need to. But undoubtedly better than any DuPont cable!
@@RalphBacon I think i've used every type of connector there is over the years. the important think is to clamp the insulation so all the flex on the wires is supported by the insulation. Solder is the worst as the wire break at the junction of the solder due to the increase in stress as the strand goes from flexable to solid. A good crimp is much better.
@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist 100% agree with you!
A chinese 3D printer accessory manufacturer ships their touch screen with dupont plugs, because they have *zero* pin order discipline in their own controller board RS232 headers; they have four permutations of the header across their product range (their worst on a shipped product was messing up a standardized servo header with GND and +5v swapped for blue smoke.) Thankfully I had a huge bag of JST-XH connectors of different varieties.
Dupont cables are the cheapest and nastiest connections that ever existed. But we need them. Better quality ones are available but they cost considerably more.
@@RalphBacon Indeed they are a necessary evil. Case in point, I can't understand how PC industry can make data buses transferring billions of bits per second work but can't agree on an universal front panel connector for four signals.
Dupont for prototyping only.
Agreed! ✔✔✔
Are you sure that those JST connectors are exactly 2.54mm pin spacing?
The JST XH connectors are actualy only 2.5mm pin spacing, and the JST RE which are 2.54mm look very different.
Well, all the AliExpress adverts say 2.54mm even though, as you correct state, the true measurement is 2.50. I guess it is "close enough" to fit hobbyist-type pin headers, stripboard and breadboards. I've used them without issue that way.
As an aside I have moved away from JST as they are real pain to release. This is intentional, of course; you don't want your battery pack detaching itself mid-flight, right?
But KF2520 connectors are similar, inasmuch that they latch, but are much more easily removed, ideal for hobbyist use. You might spot them in some of my later videos.
@@RalphBacon oh interesting, I've been wrong to avoid JST XH connectors because I was worried they wouldn't fit. Thanks for the info!
Also thanks for the pointer on KF2510! I've seen them around and I was wondering what they were called.
That's Great
Glad you liked it!
Yes sir I liked it
I have no idea how many ribbon cables I have while in the RAF. But we used parallel pliers and not a vice. I hate to think what the MOD paid for these parallel pliers. lol
You can get simple parallel plier crimpers for under £20 (I have one) but I didn't want to put viewers off by suggesting they needed one when a vice will do the job nicely for just a few cables. A "proper" one (MOD approved) costs about £600.
I quite like using the wire wrapping technique, using the WSU-30M wrapping pencil.
I've just finished a prototype weather station using wire wrapping throughout.
It's a bit time consuming [wrapping] but it gets rid of all those dubious quality DuPonts when taking prototyping to the next level of development and integration.
If it works for you, Mark, keep using it! I'm still investigating other plug/socket combinations as a result of some of the comments here. You never know, you might convert to another system yet!
@@RalphBacon No worries, Ralph. I plan to do what your doing when the design is finalised i.e. use JST connects etc;
It's just that wire wrapping is a useful semi fixed solution when still manipulating the prototype in development. How many times have we been dupoed by DuPont's that have popped off causing red herrings in operation?
I use Dupont for first draft, then wrapping and then JST etc for final PCB.
I continue to enjoy your inspirational presentations.
All the best.
Hi folks, don't use duPont connectors. They require a special crimp tool to properly form the crimp, the geometry is subtly different - look it up on Google. I've found them fiddly to make and unreliable in use. I adapted a crimp tool with removable jaws to get the proper crimp profile. Much, much easier is to use miniature screw terminals with a crimp ferrule on the wires.
Even with the special crimp tool (I have one) it still is fiddly and unreliable in use (which is why I end up crimping and then soldering).
a wonderful looking circuit board and i have had 5 PCBs made by PCBway from your advice and they look fantastic. 🥳 thanks a lot 🤩🐱
the skull and crossbones seems a lot like putin in the news
Ha ha! I will not comment on the skull and crossbones ☠ but PCBWay do make PCBs that are second to none - and their assembly service was, quite frankly, astounding. I could not have soldered some of those tiny components, not with my eyes!
@@RalphBacon i cannot wait for my next PCBway project 🙂thanks
oh i have once tried to press together a 24 wire IDC with bare hands.
should not have tried 😂
Superman would have trouble with that!
What do you think of the followings and have tried any of them:
1/ RJ45 LAN connection(upto 8 wires) ; female connector ~2£/u, male connector ~ male connector ~1£
2/ M12 connectors (3, 4, 5 or 8 pins)
3/ Chassis Socket Connectors; e.g. VISSQH GX12 5 Pin Panel Metal Mounting Round Aviation Plug, 12 mm Male/Female < 2£/u
Yes, no, no.
What, you want more?
LAN (RJ45 terminated) cables are often used to transfer data long(er) distances, including video! I used it in one of my videos for serial comms, seemed just fine. Also there are several converters (mainly for PCs and the like) to get around any 5m cable length limit.
Never used M12. Sorry.
Never used GX12 style ones either (well, not in an Arduino environment).
However, a follow up video to this one does show some KF2510 connectors which I use all the time now. A bit like the JST ones but much easier to connect up and disconnect too, without them falling off like DuPonts do.
th-cam.com/video/jgdGThRCU-M/w-d-xo.html
It's a bit ironic that you suggest using JST connectors because they are more secure then take steps to make them less secure ! If you do want to make them easier to take apart then it is probably easier to remove the bumps on the slots of the socket rather than the bumps on the plug
Either way they are certainly more secure than single Dupont connectors and the fact that they are polarised is a bonus, but with ready made plugs on leads the positioning of the red and black leads sometimes needs to be changed if you are going to follow conventional colouring and need a particular layout because of PCB design considerations
One thing that I don't like about using JST plugs and sockets is that it is more difficult to make custom length leads because it really needs a good crimp tool to make the ends whereas a Dupont crimpled connection can be made with a much cheaper tool
Where possible I prefer to make inter board connections with header pins soldered on one board and sockets soldered on the other in the style of Uno shields but this is not always convenient
I couldn’t disagree more. The circular insulation crimp required by DuPont contacts is something practically no inexpensive crimp tools can do, which is why probably 99% of DIY DuPont crimps are abhorrent. JST XH requires a very thin crimp die (like a crimper made for D-sub contacts) but is otherwise a less fickle crimp.
@@tookitogo All I can say is that my "cheap as chips" crimp tool handles Dupont connections well, including the insulation clamp when used in the right way, it certainly won't handle JST crimps
I have in the past been tempted to buy an expensive crimping tool but cannot justify it for my modest needs
OH NO! I thought my DuPont crimper would also crimp JST connections, now you're telling me it won't! 🤦♂️
@@RalphBacon Yours might, mine won't, or at least I have never had any success when trying
@@tookitogo Yes, agreed. I have had two different crimping tools for dupont connectors - neither worked well or reliably and the spoil rate was high. I watched tutorials, I looked at photo guides...... just a real hit and miss task and very frustrating and pointless - esp when you can buy hundreds of them on various wire sizes and gender combinations so cheaply ready done. I obviously don't have the knack of making my own, but I am past the point of caring now and just buy what I need. The old time vs cost trade off again!
Dupont cables are really crap,, I almost give up using it even in prototypes as they came off very easily, do not give good conections. I sometimes uses perforated pcbs and solder the wires to prototypes to guarantee a minimum quality. One thing I was really thinking of is to use and old technology from the begging og digital electronics to build prototype projects, Wire Wrap, they provide a very good and reliable conection, and make a very neat layout.. For long term I guess IDC is very good and has been used in PCs, HDs, floppy discs and DVD readers forever.
As another viewer has noted, proper, original DuPont cables are _much better_ than the cheap, Chinese wires we always buy. Chalk and cheese. But they then come at a price that few are willing to pay. However, frustration levels will eventually drive us all into paying more for a better quality wire...
Those IDC cables are pain in the ass' had to replace loads of those on Marshall Amp's because the spikes were in poor contact for siganals from the pre amp/Eq to the power stages caused all sorts of shit , used to make up JST cables to replace ..............
IDC cables can be subject to poor connectivity, it depends on who made them. I've not had any issues with my home-made ones (even the ones I've had to squeeze up in the vice before I had the correct tool).
Fun tip, you can really use just about any connector if you put a dab of hot glue on.
Fun fact, using hot glue on most connectors ensures you will never remove it without damage to the wires or connector!
Best connectors I use now are KF2510, a bit like JST but easier to remove (and crimp cables). Not so good for drone battery connections, maybe, but great for Arduino work.
@@RalphBacon The trick is to peel the glue off before removing the connector. As most glue guns only heat to about 180 degrees (lower than the temps required to bake on smd components), its a pretty decent method and is often what manufacturers do to keep cables in place when they want to ensure they dont move during shipping but still want parts to be replaceable.
Hmm. It's what cheap manufacturers use to keep cables in place rather than some sort of (removable) cable tie.
I'd rather use JST connectors for connections that are rarely removed, and a KF2510 for ones that are frequently unplugged, without causing strain on the sometimes delicate cables.
But if your method works for you, then it works. 😁
@@RalphBacon This is pretty widely used by manufacturers that range from small to big. Its often used on JST connectors even.
Its particularly used on machines that have cables liable to get loose in shipping such as gaming pcs, 3d printers, arcade cabinets and more.
If you arent freight shipping a product where you have garuntees thay its babird the whole way its one of the better ways to ensure your customers dont end up in the support queue right off the bat. Other methods include expanding foam (for pcs), more deliberately latched connectors (with a lever rather than with the mechanism of a jst that simply bends the housing (but that raises the price notably)), or permanently attached cables.
In some cases a heap of adhesive is applied liberally to internal components like with Apple products and their legendarily pro right to repair stance ...
Anyhow, I just think its worth looking into. Its a cheap solution that works, is easily removable, doesnt put any extra stress on the cables, and can be done once you've reached a stated where you are satisfied you'll be leaving it for a while. All it stakes is a small dab touching the male and female parts and avoiding the contacts and "that aint goin' anywhere".
As for cable ties, its hard to garuntee that theyll hold things in place. They simply arent as direct/close to the source of diconnection wnd can even lead to a case where one cable wiggling adds to the inertia of the bunch so another gets tugger with more force.
I view cable ties as a means for tidying not really a first line item for keeping cables connected where they ought be.
If your really wanna go overkill, you could do away with cables entire and put pogo pins on the PCB and contact pads on the back side of the cover, so when you remove the cover there are no wires but once you reinstall the cover it makes contact with all the pogo pins!! 🤣
Not so overkill! As it happens I'm using pogo pins in a specialist situation that I will share in due course. But I like your idea too for, say, connecting a front panel LCD screen to the main board.
If you use JST then indeed pre fabricated. I crimped my own connectors..... big mistake.
Oh dear! I have the right crimper and I _can_ make the headers but it just takes so long! boring!
I'd use pcbway all the time if shipping didn't cost 50 dollars. They do great work. I crack up at some of the people who are sponsored by them and just waste it by not doing cool projects which sells their service even more. They do silly stuff like the triple 5 and decade counter led chaser.
I'm guessing shipping to the USA is more expensive than to the UK; for me, it's about $25 for 3-day shipping but I can always choose a cheaper (and slower) route too. Unfortunately the inclusion of sales tax (UK: VAT) has bumped up the price of all Chinese goods by 20%.
@@RalphBacon nova Scotia Ralph.....the east coast of Canada. I can hear the ocean from my house or see it if my drone goes over the tree line when it takes off. Hahha
Sounds great, Joey, I wish I could see the sea from here (I'm about 40 minutes away from the East Coast of the UK. Sometimes we get seagulls even this far inland!
But I'm still surprised that shipping from China is so expensive for you.
@@RalphBacon we call the sh*t hawks here haha
It's the standard rate for anything lighter than a feather from DHL. They aren't big in Canada might be why. Anything else I order from China is usually fine unless it's aliexpress because of some trade thing between China and Canada. Our customs is very strict too. Ordering from the US is pointless because of shipping and duty. For instance, I went to order a new nozzle type for my 3d printer from an American site and with shipping and duty it was about 140cad. Same with a jbc soldering tip I ordered haha It seems like anything related to our hobby or music we get hammered on.
@@RalphBacon I have just paid €50 for the transport with JLCPCB. I am in France.
JST's are awful outside the sphere of personal use.... so many form factors! - too many variations for third parties to have to stock.
Oh, honey… that’s just how connectors are. JST is downright simple compared to the big guys: Molex, Amphenol, AMP, etc. For example, the “original” DuPont connector, the Amphenol Mini-PV, has literally dozens and dozens of styles of female contacts alone _just for the Mini-PV series._ Versions with different platings, optimized for different wire sizes, and with three levels of mating force (which equates to grip force on the connector), and then on reels or loose.
Molex and AMP each have _multiple_ series of connectors that complete with (and can mate with) DuPont/Mini-PV, and each series contains hundreds of parts. And then there are all the other series they make…
@@tookitogo Honey??
JST compared to Dupont is greatly problematical. But of course best is a soldered connection.
Certainly a minefield of choice out there - get the wrong one and you're in trouble. I guess Antonio does this extensively as part of his job, but for hobbyists it can be problematic to get the correct connection.
@@RalphBacon A bit for my job, more for my hobby because I’m a connector nerd. 😂 And yes, minefield is a very apt term for it!
The worst is _near_ clones that look alike at first (and second) glance but aren’t actually quite identical (like with machined headers, which come in a dizzying array of pin diameters, some of which will mate, but destructively, with the female contacts permanently deformed such that they won’t make solid contact with their designed pin size anymore.)
@@kychemclass5850 Soldered connections are almost always inferior to a proper crimped connection. (And the absolute worst of both worlds is to take a poorly crimped connection and then solder it for “reinforcement”.) However - and this is a big, important caveat - this applies only to a PROPERLY crimped connection. A mediocre or poor crimp will often do worse than a soldered connection. And getting a proper crimp requires careful matching of contact and wire, using a high quality tool that’s made for the contact in question. “Close enough” almost never is in the world of crimping.
Past me: for my next trick, watch as l use bell wire as male duponts and inhale the magic smoke
You think I've never done that? 😲😀😅😁😂🤣
Wait, Are you using single pin dupont connectors like you show with the Arduino? If so, there's your problem!
I use those with breadbording too. And they pull out soooo easy. But I've also built with them but when I do that it's groups of 3, 4, 5 or more pins side by side. So I use a housing made for that many pins and put all the connectors for s group in the same shard housing. It stays connected a LOT better.
I don't know about pre-made cables for that. You might have to crimp then yourself. But there are good tools for that pretty cheap these days.
Back before I could buy them online I used to rescue them from old PCs. Then if I didn't have a connector for exactly the number of pins I needed I would take multiple smaller ones, lay them side by side on a flat surface and a small piece of electrical tape around it. That worked. But with crimpers, sockets and housings so cheap on the Internet these days why bother?
Just make sure to get the rstcheting crimpers. Any cheaper than ratcheting and it's no good, might as well use needle nose pliers at that point. (Yes, I started with pliers for years... Don't recommend!)
IWiss make good (for a hobbyist) crimpers. They aren't going to compete with the real Dupont crimpers but those are WAY too expensive for a hobby tool.
Yes, I've had a reasonably good Dupont crimper for some time; it's fiddly but does work. But I like the KF2510 connectors now and I use a Japanese "Engineer" brand crimper for that too. It makes better connections and they don't easily pull out - but can be if required, unlike the JST ones that stick like the proverbial.
👍🏻
Thank you!
dupont lets you plug the connector the wrong way. that's a big no no
Indeed. Just about OK for breadboard use but anything else is just asking for trouble.
It's very easy to key a dupont connector with a missing pin and plug. USB 2.0 headers on motherboards are dupon and can only be plugged in one way.
They used to use those a lot in PCs. Often there would be an off center pin position unused and left out on the PCB and the corresponding hole on the connector would have a plastic plug in it.
That made it impossible to plug in backwards unless you also misaligned it so it hung over one side.
Fancier stuff also had a shell that went around the pins so that you couldn't do that.
Jeez, just get to the point of why I clicked this!!
Ok I'll speak more quickly... Or you can just increase the video speed to x1.25 or press the right arrow to skip 10 seconds ahead. I do this all the time with TH-cam videos.
That doesn't make sense. These connectors are designed that way for a reason, and the proper way to unplug them would be to use a flat metal and push against the two pieces of plastic that have that nub on them while you wiggle them out. You can do one at a time.
Try doing that inside a small project box where you can barely reach the socket let alone get any flat blade in there!
Or just use slim pliers to grip them and wiggle them out…
read the posting notice, I did use a link in my previous comment, but as you mention it got deleted, take a look at my YT video on rotary encoder name "Fast Rotary Encoder using Arduino UNO R3" work very fast and use no debounce circuit, thank's again for the great video.
I will check it out, Jack. If I haven't already.
Dupont with duct tape!
Yes, very sophisticated, I'm sure Hans! 😲
What are you doing? cutting the locktaps a way! Why don't you use a drillbit to unluck your front door. 😂😂
Where is your IDC male header, Some has lucks "wings" and it is polarized.
It seems that you are ignoring the safety featured. Didn't you learn the first time around?🤔🤔
Remember I only remove the wings on the PLUG so that should it ever be decided the locks are required after all then the plug can easily be replaced (unlike the socket).