I’ve been around and working on hot rods for 30 years. I’ve always thought a lot of talent went into cars. I’ve got a 74 model skiff fishing boat I’ve been working. I’ve really got into watching these fast boats now. You my friend have opened my eyes to a hole new meaning of patience, talent and craftsmanship. Anyone can pick up a wrench and try to work on a car but y’all boat guys take it 5 levels above the best hotrod builders. Thanks for opening my eyes and love this boat. I know your father is proud.
Thank you so much for the kind words! My father loves it, he's been skiing behind it every season since it's been finished. Even barefooted a few times, in his mid 60's!
This is by far one of the best ways to show the younger generation that nothing in life is easy, but you stick with it nose to the grind stone and BEAUTIFUL things will happen and NOBODY can take that away from you! Beautiful job on all the fiberglass work, sanding, and that POP paint job! Really AMAZING job!!! Now that's keepn it one 💯! Now all she needs is a 2.5 merc and a pitch perfect speed prop and BALLS TO THE WALL!!! Awesome video brother!
Well I watched your video and let me tell you. I’m retired now. But i did fiberglass work for 25 years and rebuilt many boats myself. I will say from my opinion you did a xspert job on your boat. You really impressed me 🙂 I can tell you had your heart ❤️ in it. She’s actually better than new. All se needs is a 250 or 300 horse 🐴 Mercury on it...lol That boat would scream!! Thank you so much for sharing it with us. Looking forward to tje rigging video. Again thank you. 🙂
ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS JOB. NEVER SEEN A BETTER REBUILD. BETTER THAN NEW, FAR SUPERIOR BOAT THAN A NEW ONE. THE REBUILD WAS OVER THE TOP. CHOICE OF MATERIALS, ADDING CORE TO UNDER THE DECK, EVERYTHING, SICK LOOKING BOAT. PAINT JOB IS BEAUTIFUL. Thanks for putting this video series together. NEW SUBSCRIBER ‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸
I have watched so many "restore" videos on Hydrostreams but none like this.! your attention to detail is above reproach and will payoff in one of the best if not better restored to factory hulls out there...! very nice...!
Thank you! I wanted to return many aspects to how it would've looked from the factory. Obviously there's new stuff that wasn't around in the 70's but I think it came together well.
Amazing job, I restored a AE 21 stream when I was in high school around 98. It had a 2.4 Bridgeport and was a rocket. But it was a bit much for the back bays around here and I damn near killed myself twice and almost sunk it after hitting hitting what we think was a beer bottle. So I traded it for a 21 Stuphen with a blown 2.5 offshore and some cash my way. I've still got the Stuphen but that hydrostream is like that ex you can't forget no matter how hard you try 😆
Looking INCREDIBLE! Even though I’ve seen all your build videos already, It was awesome to see the montage all flow. Puts into perspective the effort that went into this! Thanks for sharing and can’t wait to see part Deux!
Thanks! I was a bit hesitant to post this video since I've posted all the shorter clips. But I've been working on this video along the way and didn't have the heart to delete it haha.
@@TNels Your videos on the Viking is great. I have a 1982 viking and it is close to same shape have had it 25 plus years .Started repairing it and you have showed me alot about how to go about it .would I to talk to you if possible .
I just found a ‘78 Viking Hull in just as bad condition as what you started with. Super tempting after watching you do it, as I have experience with glassing, although I’ve never undertaken such a huge project. Currently running a 20’ Avenger Tunnel w/250 hp...will be looking forward to part 2
In all reality I went way over the top with this build. Most people just do the core, transom, stringers, and floor. That can be done much faster and cheaper compared to what I did here. You don't have to split the hull to preform that work, although it makes it easier, but adds more work at the same time. Part 2 is posted with the beginnings of rigging. I'm very near they end of the build and will post a part 3 when the boat is finished.
@@stevemagnuson7051 Thanks! It only weighs about 80lbs more than stock. We'll see how it runs with the old 2.0 175. I'd like to see 75 out of that engine but not getting my hopes up. Just bought a 2.5 225 ProMax for it to throw on once I can handle the chine walk.
@@TNels just curious....what would bare hull be worth in condition that your was in? All seats and gauges were removed in ‘85 and put in storage. Comes with 1981 Merc 200....needs assembly....owner says powerhead is good. Asking $3K....plus a rusty trailer. I really need the engine for another project and was thinking of flipping the Hull and trailer to someone with the time and desire to restore. Any thoughts on value if I listed on screamandfly? Thanks and looking forward to the splash video!
@@stevemagnuson7051 I'm by no means an expert in values of these things. But if it had a good interior, windshield/frame, and pair of badges I would guess $1,500 on the high side. But thats just my opinion.
I would assume it needs a core unless there's proof that its been done already. You can replace a core and transom without doing nearly as much as I have. It can be done without splitting the hull etc. I went way overboard on this project.
Truly an inspirational job, makes me want to buy a hydrostream (and i live in europe). The white part of the hull paint is for avoid the metalflake from fade out or something?
Thank you! I did the bottom in white just to save material. No reason to metal flake the bottom of it. I wanted it a much darker grey but the mix didn’t turn out as planned.
All I can say is WOW. Whatr a spectacular job. 2 X better than when originally built. Love the colour. I have a 1976 Kona Witchcraft I would love to restore the Gelcoat Any Idea on man hrs for a job like that ? Cheers Werner
I don’t know the weight with all of the interior/rigging. But I do know the bare hull at this point was 745lbs. So it’s certainly heavy, but still runs in the 90’s.
Great job! I have watched this video like 4 times..could you shed some light on how you scribed the bottom of the hull for you plywood supports…I’m going to pick up my v king tomorrow…. That’s this first that I would like to do….I’m also an a finish carpenter by trade
Thanks for watching! I set a board across the hull supported by saw horses on either side, I had that board marked every inch and measured down to the hull. I then transferred those measurements to the plywood. The cradle method is pretty overkill if you're not splitting the hull, you could easily get away with adding extra temporary supports to the trailer. On the pad and chines. I have a detailed write up of the process here: www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?340316-1978-Viking-rebuild
Thank for responding I do agree with overkill but but I’m definitely going to split the boat I think it will simplify some of the things I need to repair on my boat…not to mention have great access for laying up the new core stringers and floor..I can’t wait to get started
@@JeffPark-dl5pt While splitting the hull adds more overall work, it does make all the other work a whole lot easier!!! Also gives easy access to repair anything on the deck without working upside down and blind.
@@TNelsI completely agree.. I have recessed cleats lights and a missing bow eye to all fix or delete I'm getting antsy to get started!! Still doing all my research
Mostly cost, as well as inexperience. I've never done glass work before so if I screwed something up so bad I had to cut it apart I didn't want it to be the cost of coosa. As I write this I'm using coosa to rebuild the factory style back to back seats.
How long did you wait in between spraying the metal flake and then spraying the final Clear coat? Should you wait for 24 hours or more? Or can you spray the clear after the metal flake coat kicks off?
Once it starts to cool down after kicking off, you can spray. So maybe an hour or so. I kept checking with a laser temp gun every ten minutes. Once the whole boat was undoubtably cooling off we started mixing the next layer.
@@TNels Ok great. I guess another part to my question would be... Could I wait until the next day to do the clear coat or should it be done same day like you're talking? Your gel turned out amazing. Just want to make sure I'm understanding fully.
I graduated HS in 81. Drove Viper until then. Father purchased new. Anyone have a good feeling for why like Hstream most went belly up. Why? Lake speed limits?
Economic down turn. People weren’t buying toys like go fast boats. I’ve also heard that the EPA regulations were getting much stricter and harder to deal with.
Can you explain to me how you made your cradle The plywood part anyway? Gonna make one soon and I don’t need to be wasting more than I need with these crazy prices haha
Post #28 here shows how I set up the cradle. I measured down from the 2x6 across the hull and transferred that to the plywood every inch across the width of the hull. Theres probably a better way but this worked for me. www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?340316-1978-Viking-rebuild/page2
Surprisingly not that much heavier than original. Also I'm not worried about the weight, not building a race boat. I want something I can bash around the lake/river all day and never worry about a stress crack.
It is a Viking. The first model year (1978) was released as a Viking. Later models were changed to V-King after Viking Yachts threatened legal action over trade mark infringements.
Hate to be “that guy”… but, this video offered almost zero information to anyone who hasn’t already done everything you did. There is no explanation as to why this hull needs to be perfectly square and flat at the pad to avoid injury or death at speed, the lingo is all things you would have picked up with a lot of fiberglass experience, so the majority of the captions mean nothing to the common person. No one understands what steps you’re taking or why. As far as anyone is concerned, you installed a floor and covered it with some random white substance, but didn’t seal the hull underneath with it…? You put up chopped strand numbers like everyone knows what that means, and give no advice or guidance on mixing or applying. And then you’re mixing flake into some unknown substance, spraying it on, and then go right into sanding. There’s no clear on there without flake? You’re sanding flake that’s laying on the top coat? I don’t think so… that wouldn’t go well. I guess I’m just a little confused by the comments. Yes, I love these boats, yes I understand why it’s important to build them the right way so you don’t die, but if I were new to the boat restoration world, I would have learned nothing valuable, and likely assumed things that were extremely incorrect. I think the end result is very respectable, but I would seriously consider going back and doing a monologue over the video explaining anything that’s happening and why, and how.
Video description clearly states this was my first attempt at fiberglass work, so I’m not an authority to tell people how to do it while I’m learning. Never called it a “how to” video/series. Sorry it didn’t meet your expectations, thanks for watching.
I’ve been around and working on hot rods for 30 years. I’ve always thought a lot of talent went into cars. I’ve got a 74 model skiff fishing boat I’ve been working. I’ve really got into watching these fast boats now. You my friend have opened my eyes to a hole new meaning of patience, talent and craftsmanship. Anyone can pick up a wrench and try to work on a car but y’all boat guys take it 5 levels above the best hotrod builders. Thanks for opening my eyes and love this boat. I know your father is proud.
Thank you so much for the kind words! My father loves it, he's been skiing behind it every season since it's been finished. Even barefooted a few times, in his mid 60's!
These are by far the best looking boat ever made . Theres a group of these on Rice lake in Canada . See em every year . Absolutely love em.
There's nothing like a Hydrostream!
I've done this before...I am itchy sitting here watching!! Awesome job!!
Thank you! Can't wait to get it back on the water this year!
This is by far one of the best ways to show the younger generation that nothing in life is easy, but you stick with it nose to the grind stone and BEAUTIFUL things will happen and NOBODY can take that away from you! Beautiful job on all the fiberglass work, sanding, and that POP paint job! Really AMAZING job!!! Now that's keepn it one 💯! Now all she needs is a 2.5 merc and a pitch perfect speed prop and BALLS TO THE WALL!!! Awesome video brother!
Wow man, that’s very kind. Thank you so much! It was worth every late itchy night. I hung a 2.5 225ProMax on it, she runs in the mid 90’s!
Give this man a Super Man Cape and a box of top shelf cigars ! Totally Awesome rebuild .
I would love a box of cigars! haha Thank You!
yezzzzzzzzz
That was dam impressive, along with good music. Thanks Larry
Thank you, Larry!
Well I watched your video and let me tell you. I’m retired now. But i did fiberglass work for 25 years and rebuilt many boats myself. I will say from my opinion you did a xspert job on your boat. You really impressed me 🙂 I can tell you had your heart ❤️ in it. She’s actually better than new. All se needs is a 250 or 300 horse 🐴 Mercury on it...lol That boat would scream!! Thank you so much for sharing it with us. Looking forward to tje rigging video. Again thank you. 🙂
Thank you for the kind words! My father bought it in '81 and I grew up in it. So lots of love went into this hull.
All work done to perfection !!! Preserving history !!!
Thank you!
You know when you see someone build a proper hull support it is all going to be done right.
Beautiful work.
Thank you! I had some good mentors along the way.
ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS JOB. NEVER SEEN A BETTER REBUILD. BETTER THAN NEW, FAR SUPERIOR BOAT THAN A NEW ONE. THE REBUILD WAS OVER THE TOP. CHOICE OF MATERIALS, ADDING CORE TO UNDER THE DECK, EVERYTHING, SICK LOOKING BOAT. PAINT JOB IS BEAUTIFUL. Thanks for putting this video series together. NEW SUBSCRIBER ‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸
Thank you for the very kind words, Vinny!
I've said it a dozen times but I'll say it again, you have done a phenomenal job and it looks amazing! Can't wait to hit the water with you in 2021!
Thanks, Kevin!
Wow. Beautiful work!
Thank you! It was a labor of love bringing my childhood family boat back to life.
Beautiful work!!!
Thank you very much!
Exceptional work. Love that you kept old school sparkles. Really phenomenal job. I’ve been around boats all my life. This is really well done.
Thank you very much! I wanted to keep it feeling as original as possible.
Amazing job .
Thank you for saving this awesome beautiful boat .
Thank you! I'm happy to save this classic beauty. She's belonged to my dad since 1980.
I have been doing fiberglass and painting on big yachts for forty three years. I am vary impressed. I really enjoyed the video
Thank you! This has been a fu skill to learn. Hats off to you guys who do it every day.
Wow! Seriously! I have a stringer job coming up on an 89 Supra Comp TS6M and I'm dreading it. You made it look easy!
This was my first crack at fiberglass work. If you plan out your moves its not that bad. Most just dirty itchy work.
I have watched so many "restore" videos on Hydrostreams but none like this.! your attention to detail is above reproach and will payoff in one of the best if not better restored to factory hulls out there...! very nice...!
Thank you! I wanted to return many aspects to how it would've looked from the factory. Obviously there's new stuff that wasn't around in the 70's but I think it came together well.
You are an artist. That is amazing.
Thank you! It’s a blast now that it’s done!
Amazing rebuild wow. Great job watched it running then clicked on this you have done an incredible job congrats
Thank you! It’s been a long road, but so worth it in the end!
Awesome start! Thanks for videoing this so
Amazing job, I restored a AE 21 stream when I was in high school around 98. It had a 2.4 Bridgeport and was a rocket. But it was a bit much for the back bays around here and I damn near killed myself twice and almost sunk it after hitting hitting what we think was a beer bottle. So I traded it for a 21 Stuphen with a blown 2.5 offshore and some cash my way. I've still got the Stuphen but that hydrostream is like that ex you can't forget no matter how hard you try 😆
Hahaha yeah those AE-21's are some sweet boats! That would be hard to forget.
I'm looking forwards to part two, looks great thus far.
Simply beautiful work!
Glad you enjoyed it!
great work, you are blessed with garage, i have to reduild out in the elements, so bad but can be done, Glastron GT150
Thanks! This project waited 12 years for me to finally have a garage to finish it in.
You have something to be proud of there my friend.
That's the way to do a time lapse, good job.
Thank you very much!
This thing is so cool
Thank you!
Looking INCREDIBLE! Even though I’ve seen all your build videos already, It was awesome to see the montage all flow. Puts into perspective the effort that went into this! Thanks for sharing and can’t wait to see part Deux!
Thanks! I was a bit hesitant to post this video since I've posted all the shorter clips. But I've been working on this video along the way and didn't have the heart to delete it haha.
@@TNels glad ya didn't delete it Brother!!
@@TNels Your videos on the Viking is great. I have a 1982 viking and it is close to same shape have had it 25 plus years .Started repairing it and you have showed me alot about how to go about it .would I to talk to you if possible .
@@edwingalbraith7139 Thanks! Have you read my rebuild thread? I'm happy to answer any questions.
Amazing job you definitely worked really hard on this!
Thank you! Almost in the water!
I just found a ‘78 Viking Hull in just as bad condition as what you started with. Super tempting after watching you do it, as I have experience with glassing, although I’ve never undertaken such a huge project. Currently running a 20’ Avenger Tunnel w/250 hp...will be looking forward to part 2
In all reality I went way over the top with this build. Most people just do the core, transom, stringers, and floor. That can be done much faster and cheaper compared to what I did here. You don't have to split the hull to preform that work, although it makes it easier, but adds more work at the same time. Part 2 is posted with the beginnings of rigging. I'm very near they end of the build and will post a part 3 when the boat is finished.
@@TNels great work and I like that you overbuilt it a bit. A little extra weight is good for stability!
@@stevemagnuson7051 Thanks! It only weighs about 80lbs more than stock. We'll see how it runs with the old 2.0 175. I'd like to see 75 out of that engine but not getting my hopes up. Just bought a 2.5 225 ProMax for it to throw on once I can handle the chine walk.
@@TNels just curious....what would bare hull be worth in condition that your was in? All seats and gauges were removed in ‘85 and put in storage. Comes with 1981 Merc 200....needs assembly....owner says powerhead is good. Asking $3K....plus a rusty trailer. I really need the engine for another project and was thinking of flipping the Hull and trailer to someone with the time and desire to restore. Any thoughts on value if I listed on screamandfly? Thanks and looking forward to the splash video!
@@stevemagnuson7051 I'm by no means an expert in values of these things. But if it had a good interior, windshield/frame, and pair of badges I would guess $1,500 on the high side. But thats just my opinion.
Just bought a 78 vandal, probably needs core. What a MASSIVE undertaking, regret it.
I would assume it needs a core unless there's proof that its been done already. You can replace a core and transom without doing nearly as much as I have. It can be done without splitting the hull etc. I went way overboard on this project.
@@TNels ok good to know, there worth being kept alive
V King looks very nice.
Wow didn’t no u did that much work to it fucking really nice man hats off to enjoy it
Thanks! I went pretty far with the restoration, they can be made water ready with a lot less work than I did.
Awesome video!
Pretty cool how they did the vid.
Thanks!
Like brand new.......great job
Truly an inspirational job, makes me want to buy a hydrostream (and i live in europe). The white part of the hull paint is for avoid the metalflake from fade out or something?
Thank you! I did the bottom in white just to save material. No reason to metal flake the bottom of it. I wanted it a much darker grey but the mix didn’t turn out as planned.
All I can say is WOW. Whatr a spectacular job. 2 X better than when originally built. Love the colour. I have a 1976 Kona Witchcraft I would love to restore the Gelcoat
Any Idea on man hrs for a job like that ?
Cheers Werner
Thank you! I hope it lasts twice as long as original. I have around 1,000-1,200 hours total into the whole job over about 2 1/2 years.
I’d be curious of the finished weight of the boat after this restoration; it looks like it’s heavier; but very strong and durable. 👍
I don’t know the weight with all of the interior/rigging. But I do know the bare hull at this point was 745lbs. So it’s certainly heavy, but still runs in the 90’s.
Walked on "Hell" Niagara Falls will be a walk in the park.
Excellent video
How many hours was that?
Hard to say exactly what was in just this video. But I'm just over 1,000 for the entire project.
Great job! I have watched this video like 4 times..could you shed some light on how you scribed the bottom of the hull for you plywood supports…I’m going to pick up my v king tomorrow…. That’s this first that I would like to do….I’m also an a finish carpenter by trade
Thanks for watching! I set a board across the hull supported by saw horses on either side, I had that board marked every inch and measured down to the hull. I then transferred those measurements to the plywood.
The cradle method is pretty overkill if you're not splitting the hull, you could easily get away with adding extra temporary supports to the trailer. On the pad and chines. I have a detailed write up of the process here: www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?340316-1978-Viking-rebuild
Thank for responding I do agree with overkill but but I’m definitely going to split the boat I think it will simplify some of the things I need to repair on my boat…not to mention have great access for laying up the new core stringers and floor..I can’t wait to get started
@@JeffPark-dl5pt While splitting the hull adds more overall work, it does make all the other work a whole lot easier!!! Also gives easy access to repair anything on the deck without working upside down and blind.
@@TNelsI completely agree.. I have recessed cleats lights and a missing bow eye to all fix or delete I'm getting antsy to get started!! Still doing all my research
So much fiberglass work , you probably were super itchy
I did lots of itching throughout the process. I was pretty good about wearing a tyvec suit whenever I was grinding fiberglass which helps a bunch.
Very nice! Is there a reason you went with plywood instead of something like coosa?
Mostly cost, as well as inexperience. I've never done glass work before so if I screwed something up so bad I had to cut it apart I didn't want it to be the cost of coosa. As I write this I'm using coosa to rebuild the factory style back to back seats.
Gotcha, well you do an awesome job. 👍🏻
How long did you wait in between spraying the metal flake and then spraying the final Clear coat? Should you wait for 24 hours or more? Or can you spray the clear after the metal flake coat kicks off?
Once it starts to cool down after kicking off, you can spray. So maybe an hour or so. I kept checking with a laser temp gun every ten minutes. Once the whole boat was undoubtably cooling off we started mixing the next layer.
@@TNels Ok great. I guess another part to my question would be... Could I wait until the next day to do the clear coat or should it be done same day like you're talking? Your gel turned out amazing. Just want to make sure I'm understanding fully.
@@jerryripley1971 That should be fine waiting for the next day.
@@TNels . Awesome thanks for the help!
How do u make the jig. Got a valero too do?? Looks awesome man
I flipped the hull and measured down from a board that was sitting above the hull on saw horses and transferred the measurements to the plywood.
@@TNels every cut changes with hull. Wish me luck bro
Just WOW ... But are you sure you used enough Flake 😏 lol
Thank you! Honestly seeing it in person, I wish I put a little more flake on.
Look at it for too long and the Devil himself will suck your soul out of your body. DAMN nice work
Thank you!
I graduated HS in 81. Drove Viper until then. Father purchased new. Anyone have a good feeling for why like Hstream most went belly up. Why? Lake speed limits?
Economic down turn. People weren’t buying toys like go fast boats. I’ve also heard that the EPA regulations were getting much stricter and harder to deal with.
@@TNels Interesting, thank you!!!
😮
Can you explain to me how you made your cradle The plywood part anyway? Gonna make one soon and I don’t need to be wasting more than I need with these crazy prices haha
Post #28 here shows how I set up the cradle. I measured down from the 2x6 across the hull and transferred that to the plywood every inch across the width of the hull. Theres probably a better way but this worked for me. www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?340316-1978-Viking-rebuild/page2
@@TNels thanks. I appreciate you sharing your witchcraft!
@@Yuhmuthasaho Happy to help, sorry it took so long. I just saw your comment today..
@@TNels no big deal. Glad I’ve been waiting. Lumber prices are falling
How long this take you to just do what’s in this video
This took me a year and a half to get to this point. But it could certainly been done much faster.
Was the metal flake gel coat or clear
The metal flake was mixed into clear gel coat and sprayed. That was then covered with straight clear gel.
@@TNels beautiful work. Definitely better than new.
Awesome job…. but too heavy now.
Surprisingly not that much heavier than original. Also I'm not worried about the weight, not building a race boat. I want something I can bash around the lake/river all day and never worry about a stress crack.
@@TNels 👍🏼
Now scale this to the labor and material to build a $200m yacht and you can see why it was $200m.
5200 was named 5200 because it gets on all 5200 things that you don't want it on 🤣🤣🤣
I wouldn't want to begin to think about the work that goes into a 200mil yacht haha. And yes, 5200 goes everywhere!
Not a rebuild.A resarection
It’s not a Viking it’s a. V-king
King of the v bottom
It is a Viking. The first model year (1978) was released as a Viking. Later models were changed to V-King after Viking Yachts threatened legal action over trade mark infringements.
Hate to be “that guy”… but, this video offered almost zero information to anyone who hasn’t already done everything you did. There is no explanation as to why this hull needs to be perfectly square and flat at the pad to avoid injury or death at speed, the lingo is all things you would have picked up with a lot of fiberglass experience, so the majority of the captions mean nothing to the common person. No one understands what steps you’re taking or why. As far as anyone is concerned, you installed a floor and covered it with some random white substance, but didn’t seal the hull underneath with it…? You put up chopped strand numbers like everyone knows what that means, and give no advice or guidance on mixing or applying. And then you’re mixing flake into some unknown substance, spraying it on, and then go right into sanding. There’s no clear on there without flake? You’re sanding flake that’s laying on the top coat? I don’t think so… that wouldn’t go well. I guess I’m just a little confused by the comments. Yes, I love these boats, yes I understand why it’s important to build them the right way so you don’t die, but if I were new to the boat restoration world, I would have learned nothing valuable, and likely assumed things that were extremely incorrect. I think the end result is very respectable, but I would seriously consider going back and doing a monologue over the video explaining anything that’s happening and why, and how.
Video description clearly states this was my first attempt at fiberglass work, so I’m not an authority to tell people how to do it while I’m learning.
Never called it a “how to” video/series. Sorry it didn’t meet your expectations, thanks for watching.