Remember, there are five types of corrosion which attacks Aluminum, not just one. It is particularly susceptible to electrolysis, where two dissimilar metals come in contact, such as metal screws with aluminum roofing sheets. Another thing to be aware of is the type of steel that is used which has multiple grades such as "C", "D" etc. These designation tell you how much carbon is used in making the steel. The more carbon the stiffer your panels will be, but they will crack when a crease is formed in a "break" which then will expose the inner metal thus allowing a place for rust to start. Ask your roofer or roof panel manufacturer what grade do they use for their roll-forming roofing panels. Having put up many roofs I opted for a grade that uses less carbon as it is easier to work with in certain respects. If either cannot answer that question then find yourself another manufacturer or contractor. Also a high carbon steel when rolled through a former may also expand slightly as it exits the former, while steel with less carbon will not expand after forming because it forms to the roll former better than does the high carbon metal. It may also cause you to run over with your sheets because of that expansion.
Hi Chris! A PVDF finish is not recommended for this type of application. One of our GM's here at Sheffield and my contact at Sherwin Williams confirms there are some polyester systems available which are FDA approved for various food processing applications, however they are intended for interior end uses and would not be a good choice for roofing. Let me do some digging and if I come across any more information, I'd be happy to pass it along. Thanks for the question! -Thad
NSF 151 is rainwater collection specific while NSF 61 looks to cover all components used for drinkable water. My contact at Sherwin Williams has talked to a few technical directors in the lab, and rainwater collection via a roof system is not something Sherwin Williams has developed a product for specifically. Based on that information I'm assuming those standards aren't necessarily applicable for the metal roofing coatings provided by Sherwin. Hope that answers your question! -Thad
I went to your metal-roof-materials page. Your picture overlapped the form that needed to be filled out. Once the guy in the picture started talking there was no way to fill the form.
Where can I buy coils of stainless to put into my standing seam roofing machine? I would like to purchase in bulk. Does stainless steel on solid sheathing with membrane underlayment require a ventilation mat?
When they say "tin" roof, they just mean steel? I'll just be looking for the cheapest thing I can find. For a small house, and I most likely won't be around after 20 years. So anything longer will get sold or torn down.
"Tin roof" is a bit of a misnomer. It's kind of almost turned into a slang term, especially across certain parts of the U.S., to mean any metal roof. As you said, most of the time it is referencing steel. If you're looking for the cheapest material on the list in the video, it will be steel. Keep in mind that while steel is a great product, making the choice for your house will come down to location, etc. If you have any other questions, let me know. Thanks! -Thad
The Metal Roofing Channel Ok, so I'm thinking about building a house in the country. In the woods actually. Going to be small, and have to be cheap. It's going to be in an area with a decent amount of rain, but no where near the coast. I'm not young, so anything over 20 years will be a waste, and even if it doesn't look so good on its way to 20, I don't care, since hardly anyone will see it set back in the forest. I'll just need it to be water proof. What do you think? Still steel? And what exactly does that mean just plain painted steel?
If you really don't care how it looks or if it will last longer than 20 years and only care about how cheap you can get it done while keeping it watertight, then I would use a good underlayment and shingles instead of metal. You could go with an lower end exposed fastener system, but that could require maintenance in the time-frame you describe so I wouldn’t go that route. You would probably have a lot easier time finding a good shingle installer as well. Just make sure it is above a 3/12 slope for shingle installation. Hope this helps! -Thad
The Metal Roofing Channel I'm interested in steel over shingle even though it may be more expensive, because it will be in a pine or mixed forest setting, which has a possibility of forest fire. As we've seen in some recent fires, houses with steel roofs fair much better. There is also an environmental issue too. I find the idea of cladding my house in something like a toxic tar, in the middle of pristine wilderness kind of disgusting, plus I will be on a well, and will catch water for watering gardens, and lastly it's in a very high snow area, and I feel a steel will shed wet snow far better (or at least be easier to clean off) than tiles. So cost is of great importance, but within certain criteria.
Understood! Those factors definitely play into the choice. As I said in my initial response, steel is the least expensive out of the materials in this video. If you want to pick out the exact type of steel substrate and system, I would suggest talking to the Sheffield Metals technical department at this link: www.sheffieldmetals.com/Resources/Technical-Department Thanks! -Thad
Remember, there are five types of corrosion which attacks Aluminum, not just one. It is particularly susceptible to electrolysis, where two dissimilar metals come in contact, such as metal screws with aluminum roofing sheets. Another thing to be aware of is the type of steel that is used which has multiple grades such as "C", "D" etc. These designation tell you how much carbon is used in making the steel. The more carbon the stiffer your panels will be, but they will crack when a crease is formed in a "break" which then will expose the inner metal thus allowing a place for rust to start. Ask your roofer or roof panel manufacturer what grade do they use for their roll-forming roofing panels. Having put up many roofs I opted for a grade that uses less carbon as it is easier to work with in certain respects. If either cannot answer that question then find yourself another manufacturer or contractor.
Also a high carbon steel when rolled through a former may also expand slightly as it exits the former, while steel with less carbon will not expand after forming because it forms to the roll former better than does the high carbon metal. It may also cause you to run over with your sheets because of that expansion.
Excellent points! Thanks for taking the time to post it all.
Excellent information. Excellent presentation. Thanks!
What about rainwater harvesting, are they're any materials or finishes that are recommended for such an application?
Hi Chris! A PVDF finish is not recommended for this type of application. One of our GM's here at Sheffield and my contact at Sherwin Williams confirms there are some polyester systems available which are FDA approved for various food processing applications, however they are intended for interior end uses and would not be a good choice for roofing. Let me do some digging and if I come across any more information, I'd be happy to pass it along. Thanks for the question! -Thad
@@TheMetalRoofingChannel Have you ever heard of NSF 61 criteria or NSF 151 when it comes to coatings? Thanks Thad!
NSF 151 is rainwater collection specific while NSF 61 looks to cover all components used for drinkable water. My contact at Sherwin Williams has talked to a few technical directors in the lab, and rainwater collection via a roof system is not something Sherwin Williams has developed a product for specifically. Based on that information I'm assuming those standards aren't necessarily applicable for the metal roofing coatings provided by Sherwin. Hope that answers your question! -Thad
@@TheMetalRoofingChannel yes, thank you
What metals can you not place close to zinc roof?
I went to your metal-roof-materials page. Your picture overlapped the form that needed to be filled out. Once the guy in the picture started talking there was no way to fill the form.
Where can I buy coils of stainless to put into my standing seam roofing machine? I would like to purchase in bulk.
Does stainless steel on solid sheathing with membrane underlayment require a ventilation mat?
I would suggest dropping Sheffield Metals a line at: bit.ly/contact-sheffield -Thad
@@TheMetalRoofingChannel I sent them an email about per ton pricing, but have not heard anything back.
Is there a roofer In east Texas Zavalla area you would recommend?
Hello, we can definitely help with that! Drop us a line to talk to our Texas team: bit.ly/contact-sheffield
Thanks for commenting! -Thad
love you video, very helpful me I am a carpenter.
When they say "tin" roof, they just mean steel?
I'll just be looking for the cheapest thing I can find. For a small house, and I most likely won't be around after 20 years. So anything longer will get sold or torn down.
"Tin roof" is a bit of a misnomer. It's kind of almost turned into a slang term, especially across certain parts of the U.S., to mean any metal roof. As you said, most of the time it is referencing steel. If you're looking for the cheapest material on the list in the video, it will be steel. Keep in mind that while steel is a great product, making the choice for your house will come down to location, etc. If you have any other questions, let me know. Thanks! -Thad
The Metal Roofing Channel Ok, so I'm thinking about building a house in the country. In the woods actually. Going to be small, and have to be cheap. It's going to be in an area with a decent amount of rain, but no where near the coast.
I'm not young, so anything over 20 years will be a waste, and even if it doesn't look so good on its way to 20, I don't care, since hardly anyone will see it set back in the forest. I'll just need it to be water proof.
What do you think? Still steel? And what exactly does that mean just plain painted steel?
If you really don't care how it looks or if it will last longer than 20 years and only care about how cheap you can get it done while keeping it watertight, then I would use a good underlayment and shingles instead of metal. You could go with an lower end exposed fastener system, but that could require maintenance in the time-frame you describe so I wouldn’t go that route. You would probably have a lot easier time finding a good shingle installer as well. Just make sure it is above a 3/12 slope for shingle installation. Hope this helps! -Thad
The Metal Roofing Channel I'm interested in steel over shingle even though it may be more expensive, because it will be in a pine or mixed forest setting, which has a possibility of forest fire. As we've seen in some recent fires, houses with steel roofs fair much better. There is also an environmental issue too. I find the idea of cladding my house in something like a toxic tar, in the middle of pristine wilderness kind of disgusting, plus I will be on a well, and will catch water for watering gardens, and lastly it's in a very high snow area, and I feel a steel will shed wet snow far better (or at least be easier to clean off) than tiles.
So cost is of great importance, but within certain criteria.
Understood! Those factors definitely play into the choice. As I said in my initial response, steel is the least expensive out of the materials in this video. If you want to pick out the exact type of steel substrate and system, I would suggest talking to the Sheffield Metals technical department at this link: www.sheffieldmetals.com/Resources/Technical-Department
Thanks! -Thad
with all that talk about salt water, I was hoping that you'd at least mention a metal that can actually handle the ocean without needing babying