Removing the stick cylinder using viewer advice - excavator project
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ค. 2024
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Price sheet for this project:
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
Here are the previous videos from this project: • I bought a broken exca...
0:00 intro
1:16 cribbing
5:56 removing cylinder
9:33 disassembling cylinder
20:08 viewer suggestions
#excavator #hitachi - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Matt, don't worry if there are nails in the used lumber your chain saw will find them for you.
How did you know that ? LOL
Good job on the cribbing, Matt. Removing the nuts is a big challenge. Even " cutting edge engineering " in Australia has a time with some of them.
Kurtis & Karen (and Homie) are awesome :)
@@gregorythomas333Homie and his humans are awesome.
He has the pleasure of having a friend with a hydraulic repair bench made to remove and re-torque cylinder nuts.
@@gregorythomas333 So, Good!
@@inkman996and a 100 ton press to hold the rod. Great videos from them.
Nice short episode on the fun issues Matt managed to overcome getting that cylinder off the stick.
Pretty sharp how Matt used subscribers comments to use cribbing.
Plus he explained why he didn't use other ideas.
For a non professional he's doing a darn good job restoring his excavator.
Always a pleasure when a new PNH episode pops up in my feed.
A tip from Clint at C&C Equipment and Oliver at Snowball Engineering: When lifting using straps and forklift tines, always use a clamp on the end of each tine to prevent the strap from slipping off the end.
also if using fabric sling use softener on forks to prevent damage to sling
If he said $20, how many times did you check the rear view mirror as you were speeding away? I would be loading those so fast I'd have to rest between giggles. Great job.
After having done over a hundred hydraulic cylinders at my work I can say you are doing amazing for someone essentially working out of their backyard! We recently got a special machine to undo and tighten those nuts on the end of the rod because we were always struggeling with them.... the only thing you could try is applying some light heat (no more than 200°C) to potentially melt some locktite in there, the only other option is as you said a shop with special tooling.
Also I would NEVER put compressed air in the cylinder to get the piston out that is a terrible idea!!! You are essentially creating a rocket! Before my time my boss tried that and the rod shot out and trough a wall of cinder blocks and got burried in the field behind. You can still see where he patched up the hole!
Sounds like you got a hydraulic repair bench. It will also re-torque the nuts right? One thing I keep saying to my self as I watch him fight the battle to remove these cylinder nuts is how in the world is he ever going to re torque them correctly.
@@inkman996 in my experience the proper torque doesn't matter that much. Just get it as tight as you can with a 1m Breaker bar and it will most likely be fine. With our new bench you can set a torque but it doesn't make them last longer or anything, probably just slightly better on the materials of the threads
@@benediktpaul157 for the most part I agree. But I was taught that the preload on the nut needs to exceed to load the cylinder can impart. That way the constant change in directional force cannot over time stretch the threads which then leads to a complete break down of the assembly.
@@inkman996 you are right. But these cylinders are not huge and with a 1m bar you can get a couple thousand Nm without problem which should be enough for these
I live in NW Oregon also Matt. I know what it's like to work in the dark, cold, pouring rain. But my situation was that I had to. You did it when it wasn't necessary. You sir have my admiration for being one tough SOB. Nice job.🥶
Yeah, Matt said it only rained twice last week....Sunday thru Wednesday then Thursday thru Saturday! LOL
@@clintonroushff7068 In addition, Oregon must be close to the Arctic Circle, so it is usually night.
You need a torque multiplier wrench. I’ve used them for large hydraulic ram repairs when I was in the Navy. Having one makes all the difference in the world when it comes to loosening, and tightening, nuts and bolts on hydraulic rams.
Back when I was in the Navy we had torque exponentiator wrenches.
Keeping it real, so to speak, is why I truly enjoy watching your progress. The fact that you share your thoughts & setbacks with the viewers is most welcomed to see. You make us a part of your world and that is what is attractive to viewers in general.
Please continue this method of presentation. It keeps us vicariously invoved in your successes.
Peace.
@1:00 - "I offered $100 and he countered with $20" I'd like to play poker with that dude.
$120 :)
@@HorsleyLandy88 I heard it as $20, too.
nope, it was $20!
@@PacificNorthwestHillbilly that is a great deal.
Congrats on the timber score! Thanks for taking us on for the ride on this build!
Your D4 needs some good LED lights cause driving in the dark without lights is no fun. The Hydraulic cylinders are savable by any means.
That was an excellent deal on the cribbing!
Just a thought...have you considered holding the nut end with the pipe wrench being held down and turning the other end with a really long bar through the eye hole?
It would only need a quarter turn to break the hold so you can use the impact to finish it off.
The thing I don't like about pulling cyinder apart like that is that the rod is unsupported, so the piston is kinda cocked in the bore. It would be better to pull it out as far as possible with the rod guide still bolted up, then supported the barrel and finished pulling it out as straight as possible.
From the sounds of it, the barrel will be rehoned anyway, so us not such a big deal, but I'm thinking about for whatever your next project will be.
Matt, bring the rod to the compressor and use the shortest hose possible (the shorter the better). This will increase volume to the gun. Certainly a larger hose would be ideal too.
Yes, this will make a remarkable difference. Doesn't seem like it would, but it will make the gun way stronger.
@@JohnChuprun For sure.
Does the brand of impact make a difference? I believe his is one from HF.
I was having difficulty removing a crankshaft bolt on my '03 Forester. 150lbs at the air line. My impact wouldn't budge it. Took it to a local guy. His impact took it off no issues.
I will drop this link someplace Matt. It may or not be of interest to you. I'll try to find a direct message to funnel it through to you. Useful item right in your wheelhouse at this moment.
Matt,I am impressed. Also you have some really sharp viewer's. I admire talented people!!!
In the dark, outside, in the rain and muck. You're a hard, hard dog, Matt!!
Dedication....working at night in the rain !!!! I saw a 1000-pound cylinder at local Deere dealer.....a massive one.
When you need a little more power from an air impact, give it several squirts of oil in the air inlet. Its messy but it won't hurt the gun and many times its just enough extra power.
Good to see the comments section offering up good solid advice in these videos, and great to see Matt considering them, and addressing the ones he could not use this time around.
Matt, you are a hero, it’s important to know your limits so you don’t kill yourself. Great stuff, stay safe. Kindest regards from Bonnie Scotland. Joe.
You create inspiration and drive for people love your work thank you and your family
You are a very motivated individual. Thanks for sharing your progress.
He sure is!
Great video Matt! Hilarious, very entertaining. Thank you for making these episodes.
When the wench on the D4 came into view, I remembered that that's where I found your program. You removing it from D4 for the first time.
Best wishes
If you came in when he got the winch you really missed a lot on the D4 re-build. Go back and watch from the beginning. I have seen every one of his videos. Very entertaining and educational.
If I found a wench on my dozer, I'd offer her a drink.
You have got some incredible drive my man💪
I like these videos more than most on youtube, Thanks Matt!
Hey Matt, great video.
I'm curious why you didn't use some gentle heat and some penetrating oil on that nut that wouldn't budge. It's cold enough overnight in the PNW that the rod will be near freezing and getting the nut expanded with some gentle torch heat could be enough to break free whatever's holding it on.
I thought the same thing. Heat is #1 at cheap and effective. Penetrating oil is more like..."60% of the time, it works every time."
Matt, you are a man of focus, commitment, and sheer effing will. Everyone loves that!
You definitely need a bigger air line to your big impact driver !.... and use heat on the nut
that big impact will take off that nut..... just be patient !
Your cat dozer turned out amazing and appears to fuction properly...... you obviously have done an excellent job.
“There’s two millimetres of clean spot on that rod” Yes! Finally winning you round to using the metric system 😉
Be that as it may, Matt says “two millimetres” at 5:09
A bit off topic here, but if anyone has a used injection pump off a 4BD1T lying around, let me know.... part number 10402-4133 or 101402-4134. I need one for....reasons.
Uh oh. Random spring left the building at speed?
Area Diesel Service is always the place, lol… …
@@rickhaver5876 That's the right call...ADS will absolutely have the answer.
Bit of heat on the nut would probably make it easier to remove.
@@rickhaver5876 I have a shop to do it, just need a rebuildable core where every single part isn't rusted out
Got to love that northwest weather
Good vid thank you Matt, Cribbing is the way to go much safer!! - it looks like you are using a 3/8 air hose with the impact - at a minimum 1/2 air line to the compressor tank, it will make a huge difference!!! I had tried mine with 3/8 and it would not get the lug nuts off my semi rig changed to 1/2 and not problem came right off . you can tell it is starving of air from the sound it makes when you are trying to break the nuts free....
When upgrading lines, make sure your fittings are sized large enough otherwise they'll be a bottleneck. Same goes for the manifold and all the connections at the compressor. if you only have 1/4 coming out of the tank or at the regulator it isn't gonna matter how big your line is.
its all 1/2" fittings and lines, but the overall length isn't helping
The impact definitely sounds starved of air, the last video you said you turned the air pressure down to 100 psi! I would turn it up fully, it's not the pressure in the tank you need to worry about it's the pressure at the gun when it's running!
On larger equipment than you got there was what we called a slug wrench. Up to I think 4 1/2 inch larger than that we used a torque multiplier. I commend you for even attempting such a project.
PLEASE HELP ME! Why is it so damn entertaining to watch Matt ?!!!
Is it because... he's like your good buddy, who has balls and a heart bigger than his brain?
Fortunately, Matts well of common sense and luck is deeper and wider than his balls and his heart!!!
Damn son we are all on the edge of our seat rootin for ya in every installment!!!
Thanks Matt.
Nice to see you using the D4.
Good work on the used lumber acquisition. It shows initiative and drive. I wish you well on this project buddy!
Epic progress Matt! Keep up the great work!
That little tractor is a life saver
Thank you for this, greetings from Finland.
Cool video man. I been dealing with fixing heavy equipment my whole life so ill give you some advice. The "best" way to remove thst nut with what you have available to you is to get clean platform for one where you can fit the dozer even if its jist plywood. Then lay down a heavy blanket to protect chrome always. Set 2 6x6 blocks then put another soft blanket on the blocks. Put the rod on the blocks and run a very long pipe through the eye to stop it from turning. Then get a very heavy duty breaker bar on that 1 inch socket and set the dozer blade down on it with everything it has. If it needs more, put an additional pipe wrench on the socket and give it a few good hits with a hammer. I guarantee thatll take the nut off. Its easier if you had snither excavator but thats what I would have done. Keep the videos coming man i love watching them you are a hard worker!
That's a very creative use of the D4, like it! Really starting to enjoy this project.
Thank you for the update! Always enjoy watching your videos! Overcoming obstacles! Mostly working with what you have!
Matt I happened to be watching a video on another channel and I was able to pass along some info to him and I thought I might share it with you. I was an electrician in the steel industry for forty years. In the early years of my training we had a 3M representative come to our facility and give a talk on using their products. Needless to say we were using most of them wrong and it opened our eyes as to why they weren’t performing to our expectations. The biggest eye opener was using their plastic electrical tape. As you probably know people have issues with it unwrapping itself especially in oily applications. They use wire ties etc. to try and stop this issue. Well, its because the tape was applied wrong. The way it’s supposed to be applied is as follows.
Starting with the sticky side against the work you wrap it the length of the place to be covered, then without cutting the tape you twist it so the sticky side is now up. Wrap the sticky side up back over the tape then at the end of that wrap twist the tape where the sticky side is back down. You then wrap the tape sticky side to sticky side back along the the path of the original taped joint. At the end of this pass try and stop the tape without leaving a piece flying in the wind so to speak. To get a sense of how tight the bond is, just take a piece of the tape and stick it sticky to sticky then try pulling it back apart. I truly hope this may help in the future.
Love your work and wish you and yours the best.
Gosh, I really love seeing you working that restored cat, she looks so damn nice. Good job on the cylinder Matt, necessity they say is the mother of all invention so welcome to the club.
I was glad to hear the d4 fire up
I noticed that the term "adverse conditions" hasn't come up. You are the man!
Solve the swing brake with 2 chains on cab corners crossed over to opposing track. Binders to take up the slack if so minded.
This was one of the most entertaining videos I’ve ever seen. You certainly pulled out all the stops on this one…love your channel, keep em comin please.
Great Video - surprised you did not heat the nut up with a torch and then use the gun on it. Your very creative in your approaches to problems.
That is some of the best hill Billy mechanics I've seen you do.
Great idea, pity it didn't work.
Loving it.
I call that Hill-Billy Bargaining, returns my faith in good people doing good things ....
Another great video! I really do appreciate all the time and effort you put into your videos so we can come along for the ride. Thank you.
You need a big Striking Wrench to get that nut off. That's what the pros use, or they will have more specialized machinery. Also, your impact gun is starving for air by the way it sounds. Need to use like a 3ft 1" hose on a topped off tank, would make a remarkable difference in performance.
Glad the cribbing suggestion worked! Not much you can't do with cribbing, it's incredibly strong - just slow.
It’s not “stealing” (re: the suggestions/comments), it’s “bartering” or “trading”.., for your output of great content…
This has been a great video series,
Thank you sir.
The text exchange with the neighbor was priceless, I was wondering about the neighbors when you were running the chainsaw at night to cut up your cribbing…, hahaha..!
Fun stuff. When I used to break down rods, I had a pretty good trick. I put a heavy wall pipe, 3-5 feet long, thru the eye of the rod. Then rest a bucket, or forklift tire on the eye, with the pipe laying on the ground. Now I have a handle on the rod. Next put a socket and breaker bar on the nut, with a big long cheater bar. It worked to get the nut off, and put it back on.
Thanks for the video, Matt. It was interesting…don’t hesitate to make videos of all kinds of stuff… a lot of us have never seen much of this before. I’ve watched other hydraulic cylinder work before but never for an excavator and never with your interesting ways of work. The use of the dozer was genius.
As a carpenter and joiner it breaks my heart to see that beautiful timber turned into jenga! LOL!!! That was a good price btw.
The CAT series was great, but the Hitachi series is even better!
Every time you get a chance to work on the backhoe it's raining. You are a real trooper and don't give up. Wish you had some help with the dangerous things expecialy at night in the rain.
To get full power out of that 1” impact use a 1” air line. If the socket is able to rattle it takes away from the torque. 😊 Put the rod end under the cat blade and use the pipe wrench with a 6’ cheater pipe. You can heat the nut too.
I agree. Use the Cat blade to hold the rod end. If he can't find a larger hose, get a shorter one and get closer to the air compressor.
@@number40FanExactly, a MUCH shorter hose will work far better.
Matt you should crank the pressure up to whatever the maximum psi is on your compressor. They are usually around 120-175psi, some go higher. I know in the last video you mentioned using a 1/2“ line and regulating the tank pressure to 95psi. I know my big impacts make a ton more torque at 135psi and 150psi than they do at 90psi. I don't know if I would take it higher than 150psi. The higher psi and a shorter hose should do the trick. You are so close, you can't give up on that last nut.
I had it up to 165, but the hose length was definitely not doing me any favors
@@PacificNorthwestHillbillyArgh you were so close! You still accomplished more than what most people would have even attempted. Like you said, the air hose and rod movement aren't helping you out. I was really rooting for you to get that last nut removed.
It's amazing what you accomplish in your home shop by yourself. The engineer in you really shines in the creative solutions you have used to tackle some of the challenges on the dozer and now the excavator. I subscribed to your channel way back at the beginning of the dozer project, when you were dragging it out of the woods. I made a similar comment back then about how I loved comparing yours and Clint's, from C&C Equipment, approach to dozer repair. Yours was like an underdog story. From struggling to get it out of the weeds and onto a trailer, to the beautifully restored and functioning piece of Cat history.
It seems like the Hyundai is going to throw you more curve balls than the dozer did, but I feel like you are going to hit the ball even farther out of the park on this project. I'm truly excited to see how the Hyundai turns out, and looking forward to the projects you have down the road. Keep up the great work!
Likely to much hose line loss in that length of hose .
Matt, great job and determination to try and break the nut loose. You're committed working at night in the rain. Well done.
Look forward to the next video.
Put the rod back on the boom,and pull down with the the pipe wrench with the dozer winch cable.
Get it chained or roped so you don't fly it on somebody,and protect the rod with a some wood and rubber.
Great decision to have a qualified shop do the work. It’s a lot of money and you should get the most bang for your hard earned bucks. Always plan long term for replacement parts when you can swing the price. Excellent video. Very enjoyable. Tks for sharing.
Great video Matt.Look forward to the next one 👍
Regards to your impact,scrounge up another air tank and hook it in to your existing tank. Get a 1/2 inch 25 foot hose with the correct large couplers. Your Impact will thank you. No need to get a larger compressor.
You need to get an air over hydraulic bottle jack. Yeah, I didn't like seeing your arm in there either. One armed mechanics don't get much done.
A pair of tongs-like fireplace type to set the jack and a longer pipe to pump it.
Good work - good decisions!!!
I have good luck in the past by adding oil in the air inlet of the air wrench as this seems to increase the torque for a while, good luck.
That is incredible, how you get it to rain every time you work outside. I hope, for your sake, the next rebuild project is something small like a lawnmower. I guess big and heavy is your thing.
Great video Matt. Thanks for sharing.
Great job on getting the piston of the machine!! 20 for the wood amazing keep the videos coming thanks for sharing
Glad to see my one suggestion using the tractor to pull apart worked.
I was honestly surprised my other suggestion using the tractor to loosen the nut didn't.
Although, I probably would of used a decent size cheater pipe and the tracks of the bulldozer instead of the blade.
Also remember heat is your friend in those situations too.
Anyways awesome work!
That’s a great deal for the lumber heck I’d build a nice little building with worse than that lol thanks for sharing
Love your perseverance and tenacity, its just reliving the past of my own life,spent 50 years bashing ,hammering end breaking tools ,but if you sit that spear nut on an anvil, and smack it with a sledge hammer both sides it wlll enlarge that nut and bingo, she's all over rover.l will keep watching from down under in NZ. CHEERS
Another great video… Thanks
Seems like it's raining every time you need to work outside. I feel for you but way to get it done. 👍
Matt, I was a mechanic for over 40years.I learned a trick that helped me out with over tight nuts. Take a ball peen hammer and put the peened end on to the nut then take another heavy hammer and beat on the ball peen hammer. What this does is excite the molecule's and they expand which help's to loosen the nut. Keep moving the hammers around the nut flats, worked for me. Good luck and I am following you on each epic video. Norman
Your neighbor seems like a good dude.
You need a extra air tank close to your work with large short air line for improved efficiency
*- Matt, what would the shop guys doing the cylinder for you say about using an induction heat coil on the big nut that you could not get to break free?*
*- Is there a hardness specification for the threads and torque requirements?*
*- My guess is that in the old days, they would just use a propane rosebud setup to heat the nut 100 degrees or so, and not hurt the hardness, then long bar it off using an open end cut steel wrench with a three inch shank and call it good.*
*- But that is me used to three inch bolts and 6 inch nuts on a cone crusher system with 80 inch thick coil springs that required torquing. I don't know the issues involved in today's world of hydraulics.*
IMHO: Run a piece of 1" (or bigger) metal pipe over to the doorway. Put an air hose coupler in the end of the pipe. Short 1" airline from the pipe to the compressor.
Then you are good to go.
Looking good my friend.. Be very careful out there !!😀😀
That was awesome. You are so tenacious, but there is a time to throw in the towel and pay someone else.
Dude, is always raining down there! This machine is putting out a fight, but don't give up
Cutting edge engineering has great videos. As for holding down that last rod, that D 4 has a lot more weight than that loader. Might have also heated the nut a bit to break it free.
Good job keep up the good work buddy I just finished the series on the Dozer very nice
You need 150 to 175 psi on that impact wrench with a lot of volume and a minimum 1/2” hose. Nut probably 5000 or more lbs torque. Since the nuts have set screws you don’t have to torque them like that going back together. Just hammer them with the impact and lock them down with the screws. You won’t have any issues. If you use air to remove the rods in the future then regulate the psi to 20 psi. Keeping them absolutely straight is the key to easy separation. Are you planning to separate the swing bearing?
If it's worn out, yeah.
every upload is like a little christmas
Thanks for the update ! Any Video is a good Video !
I'm starting to think it's always dark and raining in the NW!😮 It sucks when you have to work when you have time no matter what the weather.
on reassembely; do not install the rod in to the cylinder crocked. so that the piston jams in the barrel. u can damage it. Grate progres!
Use a torch to heat up that factory locktight. It will most likely come right off with the impact. If it doesn't just hook it back up to the excavator pin and use a cheater bar with your pipe wrench and heat.
You are doing a great job. Everything you are doing is difficult but somehow you get it done.
I'm really enjoying your builds Matt or rebuilds as it were ... I can certainly understand you being at wits end trying to take apart that cylinder .. but I couldn't help but think you just needed to try the opposite way that you did with the blade of the cat holding down the eye, just because it's a huge piece of steel versus the weight of the bucket on your tractor, and use the bucket to assist the big nut driver or pipe wrench.
Cheers and best of luck Brother ... I'll be watching 😃✌
Keep up the great work and content !!!😊
Great score on the lumber.
Your seem to always have to work when it rains. Love your videos keep going.
Cool video, you definitely have your heart and soul in this project.