As for painting. IMO, it's not about the looks. Paint is for protection. There is NO better time to paint components than when they are off and easily accessible. Painted components are much easier to clean, will resist rust and make the machine last longer for you and your heirs. It will help the resale value too if that becomes necessary also.
PAinting also ruins the patina. You can achieve all those other goals without repainting it, and it's what I'm gonna do to my F150. I fucking love how my old truck looks 36 years old, like it came out of a junkyard while giving time, the elements, wear, and tear two upright middle fingers. As such, I will never have it repainted. But I want to stop further rust on the bodywork because I do want to keep driving that thing for a couple more decades, so I will have the patina sealed off instead. To my eyes it looks better with every dent, ding, scratch, fade, primer splotch, rust splotch, gash than it ever would all dolled up purdy again. And same for this old dozer. It just wouldn't look right anymore if it was all spick and span. Leave the patina. They have ways to seal them and arrest further rusting if you're concerned about that.
I sailed on a surplus Navy Tug that had seven Cat D399s, all painted gray. Each time we serviced or repaired any engine component, we repainted it the original Cat yellow. Not only did that protect the component, but it gave us an extra sense of satisfaction in the work done. Painting (good painting, with good prep work) also gives you an opportunity to inspect the components. While maintaining an engine (larger engine) on another ship, I had my crew scrape and paint the crankcase. In doing so, they discovered a crack that had otherwise gone undetected. Yes, I recommend you prep and paint each unit as you go along.
Caterpillar Hi-Way Yellow is the color you want for a tractor of this vintage. You can get a color match at NAPA. Get a half-pint can and put a blob on a small card and send it to Magnet Paints in New York. They ship and you can’t beat their prices for quality equipment paint. And your local Caterpillar dealer has the bolts you need. They’re black anodized grade ten bolts. Price has been reasonable when I bought them there. If you have the parts manual you can see what bolts and washers you need and write down the part numbers and quantities. Be advised that the parts counter guys/gals will likely have to convert numbers. Good luck!
I agree Cat bolts are the best. I would not use bolt bin grade 5 or 8 on critical parts. You will regret it. I work for a competitor and still buy Cat bolts when it matters.
I'm now 73 and can't work like that anymore so I'm living through you. 2 Questions = 1st. why didn't you pressure was it a few times before you started. 2nd. Matt, when you're ready to start to put it back together I vote for sparying what you can get to would make it easier to keep it clean and help it last longer. You're doing such a great job I think it is no time to cut corners. Remember a clean tool is a good tool! Stay safe.
At first I was against painting it. However, the more I thought about it you have taken on a pretty tough project if you pull this off and get her running I'd paint it. Yes its and additional cost but that "whole pride in accomplishment thing" is important.
A real pleasure to learn from watching you work alone on this dozer! I believe that now is the time to pressure wash the crap out of everything and spend the some cash to paint - at least the removed pieces..Thanks!
Matt, winch is too massive for such small dolly base. You've created to high center of mass and it's just matter of time until it tips over. Remove at least the lowest level of blocks, and replace them with boards to make it more stable.
Thank goodness you will have the videos of taking it apart. You will watch the videos before you put it together. Meanwhile lots of cleaning and polishing. I enjoy your videos a lot. I am retired and look forward to seeing it all repaired. I am 78 so don't take to many years to finish. I am closer to the end than the beginning😃
Yes I know where you are !!!! First the scare part of the weight an how it will react. Then saying to your self why isn't it moving.. Then say dummy there's still a bolt holding... I bet it's even more fun videoing your delf doing it... Still doing a good job. An yes that lease you have the video to look at for putting it back together...
Great Work. You need a set of pry bars. All Caterpillar bolts and nuts are at least a grade 8 or higher. Check the specs for the bolts when you replace them. Stay Safe
You took on one huge project with minimal equipment. I thoroughly enjoy your videos. One criticism: Never ever use Concrete masonry units CMU for supporting heavy loads. They cannot withstand point loading and will crumble in a split second. I love your shop. I could live in it. Keep the videos coming. 👍
Actually, concrete blocks can hold a lot of weight, but must be used properly. Place the blocks so the holes are vertical, (up & down, not across). They are much stronger in that orientation.
@@notajp The weight from a house is not a point load. Weight is evenly spread out over hundreds of blocks and the bottom plate bridges weak points. If one cracked or broke as they do, the others pickup the weight. I have read of guys losing their lives under their cars when a block broke. Kudos to those that gamble and survive.
Im assuming they crumble because the point of contact from the jackstands is like half a square inch... meaning 3k psi concrete would crack with a 1500lb load on jack stands. So maybe throwing a board under the stand would make it slightly more safe to distribute the load. For the record, the weight under the winch when it's still attached is only a few hundred pounds. That's all that is required to counter the weight of the transmission on the other side of the pivot. Your point is a good one though!
Paint and replace hardware! Agree with W Viceroy -- Paint for protection...! Hardware: we used either Cat or Lawson Products, (Both were USA made and grade eight). Corrision-plated hardware helps, but if painted well, will not corrode too quickly. You are doing a great job and will get much use out of a D4 with winch -- its a universal tractor, well-balanced, low maintenance, and enjoyable while moving vegetation and earth...!
On the ring and pinion adjustment that you loosened - you can pretty much fiddle with the adjustment that doesn't have the ring gear on the same side - but DON'T MESS WITH THE ADJUSTMENT ON THE RING GEAR SIDE. The adjustment on the ring gear side changes the engagement with the pinion shaft gear, and can cause the ring or the pinion gear to strip or wear badly if adjusted incorrectly. Go back and tighten the adjuster on the ring gear side before you do much else. There are plenty of videos on youtube about adjusting ring and pinion gears in cars, go look at one of them to get an idea of how much trouble it is to get the ring and pinion adjusted correctly.
Yes - paint what you can while u got it apart in sections - I agree that you might not want to paint into track / rails cause you have not worked on them /- but if you power washed all old dirt & grease off - you need primer & paint for long term protection! Just brush painting here and there will do the job! Great Work Matt! Thank you for hard effort - video will help w rebuild - I guarantee it!! From somewheres in SWMO-
You should be using a proper mobile gantry crane to lift/lower those heavy parts and pieces. If I could not afford to buy a gantry crane I would make my own out of steel tubing or I-beams. I could hear that engine hoist creaking and groaning with that very heavy weight suspended from it, not good.
Hey just thinking that dolly that the winch is on does look really unstable man. Maybe just set the winch on the timber blocks on the floor and lash it down til you're working on it again? Sorry if I come across like a health and safety nazi and it's not my business what you do in your own shop, but it just looks a bit dodge to me and accidents happen when you least expect them Just another arm chair expert here anyway, really enjoying your videos of this project tho. Keep em coming
Just stumbled across your channel and I am definitely enjoying the content. And also wanted to say thank you for not asking for likes and subscribe at the beginning of the video which I find annoying. But I am a new subscriber to your channel now. Looking forward to more quality content
I love doing these kind of "resurrections" too, but mostly old motorcycles, so it's not quite like what you must go through on such awkward machinery, but I truly appreciate what you're going through. Having said that, I voted to paint, and I'll tell you why. Because it's necessary to clean it and prep it for pain, that will be an opportunity to see/find more damage that you wouldn't find or see otherwise. Sure, maybe in this particular case it's torn down so much already that it might be hard to miss anything, but I might point out that as much as you are having to invest in this thing to get it back in order you may as well consider it as much a restoration as it is a resurrection! Good Luck!
You have the manuals, read them! There should be parts lists in the manual. At least this is an American made machine with all SAE bolts and Nuts. Tractor Supply is a good souce for common bolts and nuts, Tractor Supply also has Grade 5 bolt and nuts.
I have been following this sense you started it and I'm really enjoying watching.. Besides I like watching other people work..lol B T W I would paint it while you have it torn apart..makes it easier and more effective.. Be Safe!!!
More courage than brains was a term used loosely but I think that you have it under control.... only reason to paint is to see if any cracks appear in the stuff put together or if it got hot then the paint might discolor and give you a chance to fix before it breaks again... I really don't see any tight tolerances to cause many issues so just keep plugging away and soon it will be all in your hands.... paint might give you some bragging rights as not many can do this from fear alone
You should definitely paint the old girl, including the undercarriage. It will make it look so much better and also protect it from the elements. Use true Cat paint. It sprays and covers much better than the cheap stuff.
The Caterpillar Gods implore you to paint their lost child! It's a "CAT," that was born "YELLOW!" Repair her, wash her, prime her, then paint her the most beautiful Yellow color, Caterpillar & God ever created! She wants to be recognized again, as the most beautiful YELLOW CAT belching out the sound & power only a Yellow Cat Diesel can create!!! 🙂😉😀
I know a little about a lot but nothing about equipment this size so you’ll get no criticism from me. I admire your moxie for jumping in and seeing what happens. I’m confident that you will put this old girl back to work. I wish you all the best. I don’t like the “preserved patina” look on hot rods at a car show but would be fine with it on this old Cat. My thought is that a patchwork of old paint and bright new color might be worse than leaving her as is and telling the world that she’s worked for a living for 60 years. Good luck. 😎👍👀
But define 2 tons ..... is that 2 real tons (4480 lb ) or 2 short tons (4000 lb) ? At least if you said 2 tonnes it could only be 4410 lb. The rest of the world laughs at imperial measurements !
Great show lots of work done lots to do just paint what you fixed as you fix cheers bloke thanks for the show great to see in lockdown in communist Australia cheers
Paint will slow down the rust over the years. Based on the part of the country where you live and the amount of rain you get some fresh paint even if brushed on is must.
If this 'restoration' is really going to go all the way, then by all means, paint the machine. My Dad always said " do it once, do it right the first time ! "
Great project and I enjoy watching working at it. What's probably the most revealing is how your resolve has changed from the beginning when the disappointments kept piling up. As far as painting, keep the patina. Only paint it if you want to make a 'factory-fresh' restoration, which means it will be garage parked and taken out mainly to antique equipment shows. Or parts that must be painted for protection from weather...which shouldn't be much if properly sealed and the bonnet replaced. As you're discovering every repair has a story that's part of this dozer's history that makes no sense to hide behind a false sense of 'newness' if this is going to be a 'back-yard dozer' to have for fun and use.
Semi retired tech enjoying the series recently watched. What makes this project so very interesting is that the price of the replacement parts, while a real cost additive to the completion of project...should be very, very much less than a comparable new or used machine. And...I expect this model to be very useful and tough. As indeed, you proved to be as I watched the drill to fingernail. Cat bolts should be re used after cleaning in my opinion. Unless damaged beyond reasonable end use, they are of good quality. I suspect you will find an engine gasket "kit" , if available, the best value for general gaskets but you should not be afraid to cut cork or gasket material to "fitment" as to the broad seal faces, in particular with the excellent sealer assortments. *as in general specification as "flange". Cat type o rings, very often are of larger diameters If a good pattern is constructed to those needed wide flange repair, such can be saved to a wall and held for future revisit as maint specific. AT this level of dismantle, it might be very prudent to replace all zerk point encountered...of which assortment packs are available. I hope you might see, I am rather a fan of repair...and in fact this is a bit of a challenge (in my opinion) but one with a reward as an earning potential and with particulars as earth moving and timber operation. This machine has very minimal shields, brush guards should the operator undertake heavy brush or timber as movement. Limbs as sharpened fragments, a particular hazard beyond the cable entrainments. Always, tracks slick from rain and or cold. I bid you fair winds. M.
"So, there's some tension on here *clink* Alright, I'll put some more tension on there, I guess." It came off without too much drama, though. I know I was a little nervous. Regardless of the need to get at other things it's better to have it off and out of the way. You're making really good progress at stripping this down.
Do you suppose there was too much rope on the winch? "Long lining" doesn't seem to make a lot of sense - an add on tag line for the occasional long pull? Smaller diameter on the drum means more pull power/mechanical advantage, and damage to the body of the winch or the drum flanges from overwrap would be less likely? 80 feet or so, max?
Watching all these videos I am still amazed at how easy you have it taking all these bolts/nuts loose. I just know from experience my luck is not that good. Love the series brother.
I got to run one very similar to what you are trying to restore to working order back in 1962 while working on a pipeline in Michigan. Fortunately the company I worked for was a stickler about equipment being well maintained and keep in working order at all times. My cousin was the operator and he let me "operate" it while he explained each and ever step of how to move, turn, lift and even winch items. Have to admit it was a blast for a 18 year old. The experience came in handy later in life when I had the opportunity to climb on another one and use the Donkey Engine to start and semi operate it.
Love the humor, editing is excellent and camera angles are great so we can see everything! Really appreciate you taking the time to stop and explain what you are going to do next. Superb job.
Paint the dozer like they say below. When putting together lay out bolts by size. Some may have to be grade "8" and lock tight, fine thread and steel lock nuts. Use good yellow paint. Your doing ok keep going we will help you with problems.
Your project reminds me of a D7 that a friend of mine bought from Leslie salt here in the San Francisco Bay Area. It had only been used to push huge piles of salt and had what was the biggest dozer blade I had ever seen. Had to be at least 15 ft wide. His welder used a blow arc to lop off the ends of the blade and shortened it down to normal size. He fixed a broken track adjustment spring and then had the entire thing sandblasted because the cat yellow paint had turned orange from the salt. It looked like brand new with that Fresh coat of paint on...
Love it, once you get all the bolts out its easy! Strap it down. Bet there is a date stamp on the man casting someplace. Put pieces back on shaft until reassembly and lots of pics! Tracts make great parts trays. I could watch all day, longer or more vids!
I have been keeping close tabs on your videos ,really enjoy them. I felt for you when you found out the engine was not turning over .I came across the same situation with a VW beetle I bought a couple of years ago , water that got in through the inlet manifold and the pistons and cylinders were toast. Anyway I vote paint it , you might be running a budget but in the long run it will simplify maintenance. Everything you disassemble, fix and reassemble now, you ( propably) only want to do it once ,its quite a job, therefore paint it while you are at. it. I believe anything can be fixed even that hunk of steel. Keep it up👍🏻
A very good film, as always. If you aregoing to work it, dont bother with paint, however I agree that all the bits should be cleaned before reassembly. It will make it a bit easier.
I am enjoying the videos, and yes I think you should paint it, if for no other reason than to add protection and ease of cleaning....Just my 2 cents worth. Thanks for the vids.
I’m a fan of your project and I’m also a fan of paint. Once it’s back together paint it up. Not only will it look better but a clean painted surface makes a problem stand out whether it’s a crack, loose bolt or a leak. Then work it.
Clean it and paint it. You're going to all of the trouble to resurrect and restore it, you would let future generations of buyers that you had done the job right.
Your side comments crack me up. Your taking on such a massive project by yourself is amazing to me. I wish I lived closer just to lend a hand occasionally. Good luck, we’ll be watching.
On the edge of my chair watching you handle that extremely heavy stuff with HF junk that is probably grossly over rated as far as capacity it can handle.
I agree that paint is important for protection. On my D2, I cleaned everything that came off and then used a good red oxide primer on them. Yea, looks a bit strange but the intent at some point was to paint the whole thing.
The last two that "nuts" you loosened where you only should have loosened one. Isn't that the adjustment for the pinion mesh? If you only loosen one then you don't mess up the meshing of the gears. Just an idea/thought.
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As for painting. IMO, it's not about the looks. Paint is for protection. There is NO better time to paint components than when they are off and easily accessible. Painted components are much easier to clean, will resist rust and make the machine last longer for you and your heirs. It will help the resale value too if that becomes necessary also.
I was going to comment about painting until I read yours. Perfectly put, and completely agree.
That's exactly what I was thinking to. It's for protection. And don't need to look perfekt or new.
I totally agree with you, paint is a very good protective coating and makes cleaning easier!
I agree
PAinting also ruins the patina. You can achieve all those other goals without repainting it, and it's what I'm gonna do to my F150. I fucking love how my old truck looks 36 years old, like it came out of a junkyard while giving time, the elements, wear, and tear two upright middle fingers. As such, I will never have it repainted. But I want to stop further rust on the bodywork because I do want to keep driving that thing for a couple more decades, so I will have the patina sealed off instead.
To my eyes it looks better with every dent, ding, scratch, fade, primer splotch, rust splotch, gash than it ever would all dolled up purdy again. And same for this old dozer. It just wouldn't look right anymore if it was all spick and span.
Leave the patina. They have ways to seal them and arrest further rusting if you're concerned about that.
I sailed on a surplus Navy Tug that had seven Cat D399s, all painted gray. Each time we serviced or repaired any engine component, we repainted it the original Cat yellow. Not only did that protect the component, but it gave us an extra sense of satisfaction in the work done. Painting (good painting, with good prep work) also gives you an opportunity to inspect the components. While maintaining an engine (larger engine) on another ship, I had my crew scrape and paint the crankcase. In doing so, they discovered a crack that had otherwise gone undetected. Yes, I recommend you prep and paint each unit as you go along.
Oh man you've got it torn down so far, I'd paint it! Not perfect but just a dirt knock down and blast it. Function over form.
pacific hillbilly that is a monumental undertaking I’ve been following this from the beginning my hats off to you
Caterpillar Hi-Way Yellow is the color you want for a tractor of this vintage. You can get a color match at NAPA. Get a half-pint can and put a blob on a small card and send it to Magnet Paints in New York. They ship and you can’t beat their prices for quality equipment paint. And your local Caterpillar dealer has the bolts you need. They’re black anodized grade ten bolts. Price has been reasonable when I bought them there. If you have the parts manual you can see what bolts and washers you need and write down the part numbers and quantities. Be advised that the parts counter guys/gals will likely have to convert numbers. Good luck!
I agree Cat bolts are the best. I would not use bolt bin grade 5 or 8 on critical parts. You will regret it. I work for a competitor and still buy Cat bolts when it matters.
Just rebuilding the winch would be a project. I can't believe you're going through the whole thing! Good work so far, that is a massive undertaking
Enjoying your project, Matt. I vote paint it.
eh. Keep the patina. It looks better patina'd.
I'm now 73 and can't work like that anymore so I'm living through you. 2 Questions = 1st. why didn't you pressure was it a few times before you started. 2nd. Matt, when you're ready to start to put it back together I vote for sparying what you can get to would make it easier to keep it clean and help it last longer. You're doing such a great job I think it is no time to cut corners. Remember a clean tool is a good tool! Stay safe.
At first I was against painting it. However, the more I thought about it you have taken on a pretty tough project if you pull this off and get her running I'd paint it. Yes its and additional cost but that "whole pride in accomplishment thing" is important.
A real pleasure to learn from watching you work alone on this dozer! I believe that now is the time to pressure wash the crap out of everything and spend the some cash to paint - at least the removed pieces..Thanks!
Yup, clean it, paint it, keep the vids coming. I really like your production. You do a wonderful job keeping dolts like me learning. Thank you.
Definitely paint it. You'll have it taken apart - it won't be easier later on.
I concur with the other comments. You'll protect all of the work you're doing by painting it.
Matt, winch is too massive for such small dolly base. You've created to high center of mass and it's just matter of time until it tips over. Remove at least the lowest level of blocks, and replace them with boards to make it more stable.
Thank goodness you will have the videos of taking it apart. You will watch the videos before you put it together. Meanwhile lots of cleaning and polishing. I enjoy your videos a lot. I am retired and look forward to seeing it all repaired. I am 78 so don't take to many years to finish. I am closer to the end than the beginning😃
Hang in there, he will get it back together and painted for you soon! I have the faith!! You have a lot of rebuilds still to watch.
Yes I know where you are !!!! First the scare part of the weight an how it will react. Then saying to your self why isn't it moving.. Then say dummy there's still a bolt holding... I bet it's even more fun videoing your delf doing it... Still doing a good job. An yes that lease you have the video to look at for putting it back together...
Paint to protect the steel
i have a thing about painting any parts i have worked on , go ahead and paint the parts
Great Work. You need a set of pry bars. All Caterpillar bolts and nuts are at least a grade 8 or higher. Check the specs for the bolts when you replace them. Stay Safe
Want's the cable back?!?
Yeah - he was really using it where it was...
Also makes no sense. If you sell something, you can't claim it back afterwards unless it was agreed on before buying.
Must be some kind of odd sentimental value to the guy. "It was my great great grandma's winch cable she brought from the old country!". 🤣
You took on one huge project with minimal equipment. I thoroughly enjoy your videos. One criticism: Never ever use Concrete masonry units CMU for supporting heavy loads. They cannot withstand point loading and will crumble in a split second. I love your shop. I could live in it. Keep the videos coming. 👍
Actually, concrete blocks can hold a lot of weight, but must be used properly. Place the blocks so the holes are vertical, (up & down, not across). They are much stronger in that orientation.
@@notajp True but using concrete blocks to support anything is a bad a very dangerous thing to do. Sadly many people have paid the price by doing so.
@@ve7cbh All I can say it that there are a helluva lot of houses out there being supported by concrete blocks, including my own!
@@notajp The weight from a house is not a point load. Weight is evenly spread out over hundreds of blocks and the bottom plate bridges weak points. If one cracked or broke as they do, the others pickup the weight. I have read of guys losing their lives under their cars when a block broke. Kudos to those that gamble and survive.
Im assuming they crumble because the point of contact from the jackstands is like half a square inch... meaning 3k psi concrete would crack with a 1500lb load on jack stands. So maybe throwing a board under the stand would make it slightly more safe to distribute the load. For the record, the weight under the winch when it's still attached is only a few hundred pounds. That's all that is required to counter the weight of the transmission on the other side of the pivot. Your point is a good one though!
this cable must way "a few couple hundred pounds."
Your 1st merch shirt/hat line!
haha
Yo don't use 5 pound hammers on cast iron. You will be pissed when the casting breaks. Buy some wedges.
I enjoy your videos.
If you wear a fedora while you're working on this machine things will very smooth....... trust me.
I would paint it to preserve it.
Paint and replace hardware! Agree with W Viceroy -- Paint for protection...!
Hardware: we used either Cat or Lawson Products, (Both were USA made and grade eight).
Corrision-plated hardware helps, but if painted well, will not corrode too quickly.
You are doing a great job and will get much use out of a D4 with winch -- its a universal tractor, well-balanced, low maintenance, and enjoyable while moving vegetation and earth...!
On the ring and pinion adjustment that you loosened - you can pretty much fiddle with the adjustment that doesn't have the ring gear on the same side - but DON'T MESS WITH THE ADJUSTMENT ON THE RING GEAR SIDE. The adjustment on the ring gear side changes the engagement with the pinion shaft gear, and can cause the ring or the pinion gear to strip or wear badly if adjusted incorrectly. Go back and tighten the adjuster on the ring gear side before you do much else. There are plenty of videos on youtube about adjusting ring and pinion gears in cars, go look at one of them to get an idea of how much trouble it is to get the ring and pinion adjusted correctly.
Wondering about that snapped track tensioner
Spring
Are they available? The cost from cat must be crazy
Maybe reason he sold it who knows
Anybody?
Yes - paint what you can while u got it apart in sections - I agree that you might not want to paint into track / rails cause you have not worked on them /- but if you power washed all old dirt & grease off - you need primer & paint for long term protection! Just brush painting here and there will do the job!
Great Work Matt! Thank you for hard effort - video will help w rebuild - I guarantee it!!
From somewheres in SWMO-
Looking a the issues and damage you have found I suspect thus Cat spent most of its life building logging roads.
I'm from Brazil, I like your videos and I'm always following them
You should be using a proper mobile gantry crane to lift/lower those heavy parts and pieces. If I could not afford to buy a gantry crane I would make my own out of steel tubing or I-beams. I could hear that engine hoist creaking and groaning with that very heavy weight suspended from it, not good.
Hey just thinking that dolly that the winch is on does look really unstable man. Maybe just set the winch on the timber blocks on the floor and lash it down til you're working on it again?
Sorry if I come across like a health and safety nazi and it's not my business what you do in your own shop, but it just looks a bit dodge to me and accidents happen when you least expect them
Just another arm chair expert here anyway, really enjoying your videos of this project tho. Keep em coming
Paint....Paint...Paint did I mention to Paint it????? Super great job on what you are doing, I am totally blown away by your talent....
Just stumbled across your channel and I am definitely enjoying the content. And also wanted to say thank you for not asking for likes and subscribe at the beginning of the video which I find annoying. But I am a new subscriber to your channel now. Looking forward to more quality content
Matt, your picture quality is fantastic. When in full screen mode the picture is crystal clear. Great project and can't wait for the next episode!
I love doing these kind of "resurrections" too, but mostly old motorcycles, so it's not quite like what you must go through on such awkward machinery, but I truly appreciate what you're going through. Having said that, I voted to paint, and I'll tell you why. Because it's necessary to clean it and prep it for pain, that will be an opportunity to see/find more damage that you wouldn't find or see otherwise. Sure, maybe in this particular case it's torn down so much already that it might be hard to miss anything, but I might point out that as much as you are having to invest in this thing to get it back in order you may as well consider it as much a restoration as it is a resurrection!
Good Luck!
Finally some deserved luck. I have all the admiration in the world for your determination in the face of adversity. .
You have the manuals, read them! There should be parts lists in the manual. At least this is an American made machine with all SAE bolts and Nuts. Tractor Supply is a good souce for common bolts and nuts, Tractor Supply also has Grade 5 bolt and nuts.
Not many grade 5 nuts and bolts on a Cat, most would be grade 8 or better.
@@Ropetangler Tractor supply also has grade 8 bolt & nuts, washers.
I have been following this sense you started it and I'm really enjoying watching.. Besides I like watching other people work..lol
B T W I would paint it while you have it torn apart..makes it easier and more effective.. Be Safe!!!
I vote paint the parts you have worked on.
Paint, absolutely... all the reasons in other comments. And do repair the winch.
More courage than brains was a term used loosely but I think that you have it under control.... only reason to paint is to see if any cracks appear in the stuff put together or if it got hot then the paint might discolor and give you a chance to fix before it breaks again... I really don't see any tight tolerances to cause many issues so just keep plugging away and soon it will be all in your hands.... paint might give you some bragging rights as not many can do this from fear alone
I’m impressed that you’re taking on a mammoth job by yourself. I enjoy every episode.
hi, since you take it apart it won't be more complicated to repaint it, it will be much more beautiful, have fun
You should definitely paint the old girl, including the undercarriage. It will make it look so much better and also protect it from the elements. Use true Cat paint. It sprays and covers much better than the cheap stuff.
Back in the 50's a fedora was worn every time you left the house. My dad wore one to cut the grass.
I love watching you work through this project. I can’t wait to see what’s next.
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Since you intend to do a decent job of resurection, might as well paint it. Looks like a finished job then.
This is quite a project. Thanks for bringing us along!
The Caterpillar Gods implore you to paint their lost child!
It's a "CAT," that was born "YELLOW!" Repair her, wash her, prime her, then paint her the most beautiful Yellow color, Caterpillar & God ever created! She wants to be recognized again, as the most beautiful YELLOW CAT belching out the sound & power only a Yellow Cat Diesel can create!!! 🙂😉😀
Are you a minister of the Caterpillar faith?
Dude, I'd paint it. So much easier to work with and it will last much longer. What is your time worth?
I know a little about a lot but nothing about equipment this size so you’ll get no criticism from me. I admire your moxie for jumping in and seeing what happens. I’m confident that you will put this old girl back to work. I wish you all the best. I don’t like the “preserved patina” look on hot rods at a car show but would be fine with it on this old Cat. My thought is that a patchwork of old paint and bright new color might be worse than leaving her as is and telling the world that she’s worked for a living for 60 years. Good luck. 😎👍👀
"...last hold outs of the metric system" XD
I think i like you.
But define 2 tons ..... is that 2 real tons (4480 lb ) or 2 short tons (4000 lb) ? At least if you said 2 tonnes it could only be 4410 lb. The rest of the world laughs at imperial measurements !
Great show lots of work done lots to do just paint what you fixed as you fix cheers bloke thanks for the show great to see in lockdown in communist Australia cheers
Paint will slow down the rust over the years. Based on the part of the country where you live and the amount of rain you get some fresh paint even if brushed on is must.
It’s a good thing you have the engine boom, it’s been a real help! 👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Maybe if you wear a fedora and a suit it would come apart easier
Clean the back of the trans housing where the Serial number plate is located. Ive seen the number stamped on the housing in that location.
I did that, didn't see a stamp anywhere. Guess I'm out of luck.
I would love it to be painted, Matt but I understand if you don't as it would be a big job on it's own. Love your videos. I live in New Zealand.
If this 'restoration' is really going to go all the way, then by all means, paint the machine. My Dad always said " do it once, do it right the first time ! "
Doing Great Matt! I could watch hours of your videos doing this....
good job gtting the winch off....keep going...
I see you got some impact sockets. Good for you.
Great project and I enjoy watching working at it. What's probably the most revealing is how your resolve has changed from the beginning when the disappointments kept piling up. As far as painting, keep the patina. Only paint it if you want to make a 'factory-fresh' restoration, which means it will be garage parked and taken out mainly to antique equipment shows. Or parts that must be painted for protection from weather...which shouldn't be much if properly sealed and the bonnet replaced. As you're discovering every repair has a story that's part of this dozer's history that makes no sense to hide behind a false sense of 'newness' if this is going to be a 'back-yard dozer' to have for fun and use.
Semi retired tech enjoying the series recently watched. What makes this project so very interesting is that the price of the replacement parts, while a real cost additive to the completion of project...should be very, very much less than a comparable new or used machine.
And...I expect this model to be very useful and tough. As indeed, you proved to be as I watched the drill to fingernail.
Cat bolts should be re used after cleaning in my opinion. Unless damaged beyond reasonable end use, they are of good quality.
I suspect you will find an engine gasket "kit" , if available, the best value for general gaskets but you should not be afraid to cut cork or gasket material to "fitment" as to the broad seal faces, in particular with the excellent sealer assortments. *as in general specification as "flange". Cat type o rings, very often are of larger diameters
If a good pattern is constructed to those needed wide flange repair, such can be saved to a wall and held for future revisit as maint specific.
AT this level of dismantle, it might be very prudent to replace all zerk point encountered...of which assortment packs are available.
I hope you might see, I am rather a fan of repair...and in fact this is a bit of a challenge (in my opinion) but one with a reward as an earning potential and with particulars as earth moving and timber operation. This machine has very minimal shields, brush guards should the operator undertake heavy brush or timber as movement. Limbs as sharpened fragments, a particular hazard beyond the cable entrainments. Always, tracks slick from rain and or cold. I bid you fair winds. M.
Awesome job Matt, thanks for sharing brother! 👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hey Matt! You need to get a Gantry Crane! Northan Tool is where I bought mine 6000lbs I use a three ton Chainfall to lift everything in my shop.
HI Matt really enjoying the series. Keep up the good work. Mick, Northern Ireland 👍👏🍻
"So, there's some tension on here *clink* Alright, I'll put some more tension on there, I guess." It came off without too much drama, though. I know I was a little nervous. Regardless of the need to get at other things it's better to have it off and out of the way. You're making really good progress at stripping this down.
Do you suppose there was too much rope on the winch? "Long lining" doesn't seem to make a lot of sense - an add on tag line for the occasional long pull? Smaller diameter on the drum means more pull power/mechanical advantage, and damage to the body of the winch or the drum flanges from overwrap would be less likely? 80 feet or so, max?
Watching all these videos I am still amazed at how easy you have it taking all these bolts/nuts loose. I just know from experience my luck is not that good. Love the series brother.
You should be enjoying the cooler weather!
Good job. Congratulation.
I got to run one very similar to what you are trying to restore to working order back in 1962 while
working on a pipeline in Michigan. Fortunately the company I worked for was a stickler about
equipment being well maintained and keep in working order at all times. My cousin was the
operator and he let me "operate" it while he explained each and ever step of how to move, turn,
lift and even winch items. Have to admit it was a blast for a 18 year old. The experience
came in handy later in life when I had the opportunity to climb on another one and use the
Donkey Engine to start and semi operate it.
Enjoying the journey, thank you for sharing!
Yes Paint it for protection, looks be damned. By the way, Courageous project. WTG
Love the humor, editing is excellent and camera angles are great so we can see everything! Really appreciate you taking the time to stop and explain what you are going to do next. Superb job.
Paint the dozer like they say below. When putting together lay out bolts by size. Some may have to be grade "8" and lock tight, fine thread and steel lock nuts. Use good yellow paint. Your doing ok keep going we will help you with problems.
Your project reminds me of a D7 that a friend of mine bought from Leslie salt here in the San Francisco Bay Area. It had only been used to push huge piles of salt and had what was the biggest dozer blade I had ever seen. Had to be at least 15 ft wide. His welder used a blow arc to lop off the ends of the blade and shortened it down to normal size. He fixed a broken track adjustment spring and then had the entire thing sandblasted because the cat yellow paint had turned orange from the salt. It looked like brand new with that Fresh coat of paint on...
Love it, once you get all the bolts out its easy! Strap it down. Bet there is a date stamp on the man casting someplace. Put pieces back on shaft until reassembly and lots of pics! Tracts make great parts trays. I could watch all day, longer or more vids!
I have been keeping close tabs on your videos ,really enjoy them. I felt for you when you found out the engine was not turning over .I came across the same situation with a VW beetle I bought a couple of years ago , water that got in through the inlet manifold and the pistons and cylinders were toast. Anyway I vote paint it , you might be running a budget but in the long run it will simplify maintenance. Everything you disassemble, fix and reassemble now, you ( propably) only want to do it once ,its quite a job, therefore paint it while you are at. it. I believe anything can be fixed even that hunk of steel. Keep it up👍🏻
A very good film, as always. If you aregoing to work it, dont bother with paint, however I agree that all the bits should be cleaned before reassembly. It will make it a bit easier.
Hi Matt, enjoy watching your dedication to your restoration. As far as painting do what appeals to you.
I am enjoying the videos, and yes I think you should paint it, if for no other reason than to add protection and ease of cleaning....Just my 2 cents worth. Thanks for the vids.
Paint... Please paint what you've worked on... It will remind you what's left to "rebuild"..... AND.. be an incentive for future rebuilding....
Ziploc bags for bolt/nut keeps all your fasteners for each area zone separated Label with Sharpie...
I’m a fan of your project and I’m also a fan of paint. Once it’s back together paint it up. Not only will it look better but a clean painted surface makes a problem stand out whether it’s a crack, loose bolt or a leak. Then work it.
Clean it and paint it. You're going to all of the trouble to resurrect and restore it, you would let future generations of buyers that you had done the job right.
Normally I would say leave her in her work clothes, but it is so much easier to follow oil leaks when she is clean & pretty, so I would go with paint.
Your side comments crack me up. Your taking on such a massive project by yourself is amazing to me. I wish I lived closer just to lend a hand occasionally. Good luck, we’ll be watching.
This project is going much better than I thought would happen. Keep up the good work.
On the edge of my chair watching you handle that extremely heavy stuff with HF junk that is probably grossly over rated as far as capacity it can handle.
I agree that paint is important for protection. On my D2, I cleaned everything that came off and then used a good red oxide primer on them. Yea, looks a bit strange but the intent at some point was to paint the whole thing.
The last two that "nuts" you loosened where you only should have loosened one. Isn't that the adjustment for the pinion mesh? If you only loosen one then you don't mess up the meshing of the gears. Just an idea/thought.
another paint vote: yes
Paint only to prevent rust on flats such as cover plates and where grease, oil and leaking hydraulic oil won't prevent rust.
Interesting project! I like your style of presenting the tasks and your explanations along the way. I'm your channel will continue to grow!
Thanks Matt, new paint would look cool and offer protection to the metal from the elements. But it's your project and you do what you want.
Amazing all the parts and hardware that is associated with the machine. Super interesting none the less. Thanks for the video.
Excellent progress Bro. Enjoying the vid.
Getting it done awesome