That bear copper core is going to be green in time. It really needs to be painted with radiator paint. You are doing a great job of fixing up this old Cat. I have enjoyed every episode. Keep up the good work, and glad you did the radiator yourself. Can't wait to see it pushing some dirt!!
Hi, I spent 30 years in parts and service in Vancouver, British Columbia. Distributors for Volvo Penta. and many other fine pieces of Iron small and large. Industrial and Marine gas and diesel. Also diesel electric gen sets. We had one of our top dealers and every time he sold a new unit he would dump in a can o f" Bars Leak" into the RAD just before test and run up. He swore by it. He said good insurance. A small coolant leak after a new engine sold was a time waste and poor customer confidence. That being said, I would dump in a can of "Bars Leak" and be done with it. Good site and I enjoy your ethics. I always look forward to Yellow Iron Paint day. Be safe
Matt, Sorry about the flu, take care of yourself. We've had some nasty colds, pneumonia, flu, etc. here in the central Illinois. My Doc has had patients battling for 3-6 weeks and still have congestion. Glad to see you back on the Ole Cat. Those cast iron caps and side pieces speak of the quality at the time. Well, some would just say it was heavy. I've found bolts in cast iron will have less corrosion just the chemistry of iron vs steel. $900 core!!!!!!! Some hobby.
As always, a thorough and detailed teardown, cleanup and rebuild. LOVELY to watch. Thanks for letting us watch you chip away at this monolith!! You're doing yeoman work.
Good job Matt! Maybe put a dust screen on the front of the radiator with quick latches that will protect the radiator and you can wash the dirt off every once in awhile.
Don't Caterpillars reverse flow fan the air from the motor through the radiator to the outside? Not normal like all other radiator systems bringing the air from the outside in through the fan . Does that make sense?
Great video as always. Look at that subscriber count. Shows what no click bait and straight forward mechanicing will get you. Glad I was there at the beginning.
I'm really impressed with the quality of your work and that you're cleaning everything thoroughly plus painting it. As well that you're using Permatex instead of the new sealers. Especially silicone. I've always did what you do with Permatex on both sides of the gasket and on the items to be sealed. It's how I was taught to do both in small engine Vocational school and Coast Guard Aviation Machinist Mate A school. Your work on this Dozer is definitely professional level quality. Can't wait to see you finish it and test operate it then begin on the Excavator. Of course after they're finished you'll have to find a Skid Steer to restore and round out your collection.
Just my two cents but the machine was designed with the oil cooler and when you start pushing dirt it is going to heat up fast. Granted you have a lot of mass to reject the heat but every little bit helps. Even if you install an aftermarket zip tie cooler that would be better than nothing. If you do paint the rad use a rad paint. The viscosity is such that it won't bridge the fins. Thanks for the time you put into making these.
I agree about rad paint, they make paint for that besides copper if left alone will start to build up a film of corrosion that will in effect reduce its efficiency in the long term. Heck even Rustolium is better than nothing. I’ve never seen a radiator come out of a radiator shop unpainted? Maybe I’m wrong. Either way he is doing a great job!
@@Mtlmshr its a brand new core and sometimes you have to solder on a top tank on old machines or both tanks on newer machines. they cant be painted before you solder them. finished radiators are painted
I removed the oil cooler on 2 D2s and a D4 and not had a problem. Guess modern oils help but we also live in a cool climate. Maybe say in California you'd need it.
Nice, nice work. If the OE radiator cap is a non-pressure unit, the design engineers were not too concerned with raising the boiling point of the coolant, rather the goal being it should not drain out when the tractor is parked overnight and is circulated when it is in operation. Pro tip: Bars Leaks. Don't use it. Back in the day my grandpa swore by it, but he was the same guy who put sawdust in the rear axle housing of every car he sold.
My thinking too, lots of old stuff wasn't designed to get pressurized. Not leaking was a bonus, if it leaked no big deal, just add more water. Dad was truck driver when he was young, in the winter they drained the "coolant" every night so it wouldn't freeze and filled with water every morning, coolant wasn't invented yet.
I would recommend putting some steel angles under the new arm rests. I put a Hahn seat on my D2 20 years ago and they are still looking good, but the arm rests failed in the angle. You are doing a good job.
I will never own a piece of heavy machinery, but I've been watching your D4 build from the beginning. I'm glad you replaced the core instead of trying to use the old core. When I'm aligning parts like your radiator sections, oil pans, or transmissions, I use a couple of studs with a slot cut in one end as locating pins for assembly. The slots allow me to use a screwdriver to remove them after a few bolts are installed.
I had a '42 2n Ford tractor, cooling system wasn't pressurized. It just metered the coolant capacity on it's own by spilling out the cap until it had the right level. Never had a problem with it, thermostat did it's job and it ran a constant temp.
You are not dragging your heals with this rebuild . It is a lot of work and time to get where you currently are with the machine and progress is going along nicely. Thanks for the video.
Always happy to see and update on this project. It is really coming together. Cannot wait to see it pushing dirt and you smiling. Also, did someone remind you to have a great day? If not, HAVE A GREAT DAY. !CLICK!
I had a chocolate lab named Charlie, and he was ball-obsessed like your Charlie! I had to laugh when I saw him trying to get you to play ball with him. Sure miss my Charlie, glad to see your dog has a good life and a caring owner!
My TH-cam subscriptions are all about who do I want to spend time with and I enjoy spending time with Charlie and you. Your voice reminds me of Marvin the Martian. I love how you think through your fixes.
I need to fix (probably replace) the radiator on my tractor that got a stick through it recently - at least 3 small holes (like match head size). A super quick and easy job compared to what you had to do with that Cat radiator. You are doing terrific work on the Cat. You are an inspiration to me and probably many other folks here. Wish I lived close to you so I could help out, especially when you are handling the really heavy / awkward stuff.
One of the reasons I watch your channel is that your are very through on your clean ups and assemblies, and you have yet to disappoint my expectation’s. Thank you for the video and I hope this ole Cat meets your expectations when you are ready operate it.
Please reconsider the oil cooler . Heat kills and more than likely the cooler is for the hydraulic system . This necessary so not to cook pumps and valves or blow hoses . Whether you work an hour or all day , the Heat is the same . Hydraulic equipment doesn't work when overheated and renders the equipment useless . Then you pay triple for repairs that could have been avoided . Just think about it . BTW....I would like to be there helping with the rehab . No charge lol .
This was bothering me the whole video. From what I found online the oil cooler is for the engine oil. I would recommend the oil cooler, however Matt had indicated they aren't needed due to better quality oils, and he may be referring to synthetic. This really deserves a study on cat diesels oil cooler requirements.
I think it will be fine. We have a 1950s or earlier international T6 crawler that used a magnetic radiator cap. My understanding is the old stuff generally used high water volume to cool rather then pressurising the system like a modern machine
retired 'worked for cat dealer 'field service 38 years your doing real complete job looks good ' alway at least glued in place one side of about any gasket then soft sealer on the other side heard you say gasket you installed may slide out of place and they do ,, also nothing wrong with new permatex red soft sealer used that mostly the last 10 + year and thought that worked best ever ---also when coolant gaskets get up to operating temp . those gasket seal off better don't use that red harding sealer its nother more than thick locktite it has it places ,, also it glues thing together than you like to never get thing apart so low contact glue 1side and soft sealer on other and tighten bolts correct torque and that about all you can do . kinda like cleanliness and fact you painting as you go ,your looking good mister ,, jack
What fasteners, they look like rivets! that's a hell of a job. Came out great. One thing to remember with air pressure testing is that water tight is not the same as air tight. If it doesn't leak/tiny leak under air you're gonna be safe. This is turning out to be a great rebuild of the whole machine.
Wow that was some job changing the Radiator, My thought is maybe on the bolts securing the Radiator to the housing you might want to use never cease on the threads if you ever have to open up the housing again after it sits outside in the weather for a period of time.
Brother you are just to damn critical on yourself and your work! Who cares what other people think (including me🤪) your not dragging your feet on anything, it will get done when it gets done! How many people can say the completely rebuilt a tractor like that? Not many at all. As far as the rad, it’s fine as far as I can see so go with it, great job!
Matt, I found your channel about a month ago. I binge watched the dozer series, great work. The only thing that sucks about being caught up is waiting for the new videos! Great channel, Great content. Keep up the good work.
Very fine job and don't worry so much over the radiator if it holds coolant it will be good for the long run. Just don't delete the oil cooler cause as many other people under this video have pointed out. When dozing the engine will get hot faster then just by idle or driving. I can't give any advice but I'm very impressed how well you did.
Since 2019, the year of the Covid virus, I thought the word "Flu" had been removed from the English language. I'm glad you are getting well and still using legitimate words to describe an uncomfortable, but non life-threatening illness. Pushing through the sniffles and fixing that radiator was real, "Americanism", or perhaps, "Hillbillyism", if you prefer.
I’m enjoying watching this project come together. Your attention to detail and your versatility is amazing. Also enjoy watching your dog. Mine “helps” me when I’m working as well. 😂
I see excavator parts. Btw, I bought a working 2000 hitachi EX35U mini excavator two year ago. I’m a year into the restoration and am almost done. When I saw your video of you buying yours I said to myself “that poor, poor guy” hahahaha
The cooling system is not pressurized. It will be fine. You might have to retighten the bolts after a few hard uses. More of a nuisance than anything. Keep an eye on your coolant. Those seats look better than the stuff we got from Cat years ago. Cheers Terry
Hi Matt - from Sierra Vista, Arizona. I've been watching your efforts with keen interest all the way through. When I wore a younger man's clothes, I did ALL my own work on cars and bikes. My first job in the Army (back in the day) was piston engine mechanic. I understand the 'time' it takes to handle a project like your D4 - but you're doing an excellent job of documenting your work - it's fascinating to watch and we are all chomping at the bit to see you finish and crank up that restored unit!! Keep it up! John & family.
Good to see you Matt, I hope you get to feeling better soon myself friend! Radiator is looking good brother and I’ll be praying for your quick recovery brother! Stay safe and healthy my friend!👏🏻👏🏻👌🏻👌🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🇺🇸
Just a suggestion Matt, that would look really nice if you painted all of the CAT logo’s and the Caterpillar lettering black. Love the content man been following this build since you started it.
Thanks for the video Matt! Always enjoyable. In my humble opinion, the oil cooler might still be very useful - even with modern oils, most auto and equipment manufacturers use one. I guess you can monitor the situation and see where you are running and if you need to install some type of cooler. Thanks again and good luck finishing the project!
My all time favorite is Permatex 2. Spray every bolt on everything now with penetrating oil and hopefully when you get to them they will come loose. One other suggestion, sandblaster.
Hope you can get rid of flu bug, kids bring it home from school ? W/the cold weather, trick to speed up dry time on your paint- add a teaspoon or 2 per pint or so of paint-Try Japan paint Dryer, it works you will be suprised. Good luck w/the bug. looking forward to your next video, hope its the winch I have one just like it w/rotten 3/4" cable thinking about going with 5/8" or just a little under 3/4" , be intrested in what you decide w/yours. Have a good one from Southern Emerald Empire.
I just went through the regulator/thermostat issue myself last month. 4 to 6psi is about max The Gates 3888 thermostat you have dose have a small hole in the seat of the valve surface for relief. The thermostat housing may have a covered bypass passage boss on the governor side (for external passage - cab heater, percolating engine heater) and returns it to the bottom radiator hose. OR an internal passage that recirculates coolant until the thermostat reopens. Yours is most likely the latter. Which may present a different problem Squatch did a video on that type of re-re-reiteration.👀🤦(search for thermostat n squatch not regulator) YOU WILL need to make a retainer about 3/16" to a 1/4" on top of the regulator to hold it into place otherwise it will rattle around and not work properly. What I did was use a thick neoprene cork gasket and let compress in place (leaving a small gap for the seat hole to work). Hindsight i should have tried a thick O-ring first. Once you look at it you will understand If you need more help let me know I have lots of video footage of putting in two Gates 3888 in my D318. It shows what I did. But I highly recommend checking out Squatch's video.
My dinner is not hot anymore, I'd rather watch your videos, keep up the good work. Love when Charlie interrupts.
Matt seems such a humble guy. He seems to know a lot about a variety of things.
That bear copper core is going to be green in time. It really needs to be painted with radiator paint. You are doing a great job of fixing up this old Cat. I have enjoyed every episode. Keep up the good work, and glad you did the radiator yourself. Can't wait to see it pushing some dirt!!
I agree and have read that there is a special paint for radiators which allows for better cooling. Probably worth your time to follow up on that.
Hi, I spent 30 years in parts and service in Vancouver, British Columbia. Distributors for Volvo Penta. and many other fine pieces of Iron small and large. Industrial and Marine gas and diesel. Also diesel electric gen sets. We had one of our top dealers and every time he sold a new unit he would dump in a can o f" Bars Leak" into the RAD just before test and run up. He swore by it. He said good insurance. A small coolant leak after a new engine sold was a time waste and poor customer confidence. That being said, I would dump in a can of "Bars Leak" and be done with it. Good site and I enjoy your ethics. I always look forward to Yellow Iron Paint day. Be safe
My Dad did the same and he always had really good luck with it! I have used it myself it's still a pretty good product.
We had plenty of Bars Leak used in the Old Day's, always on hand.
Matt, Sorry about the flu, take care of yourself. We've had some nasty colds, pneumonia, flu, etc. here in the central Illinois. My Doc has had patients battling for 3-6 weeks and still have congestion.
Glad to see you back on the Ole Cat. Those cast iron caps and side pieces speak of the quality at the time. Well, some would just say it was heavy. I've found bolts in cast iron will have less corrosion just the chemistry of iron vs steel. $900 core!!!!!!! Some hobby.
As always, a thorough and detailed teardown, cleanup and rebuild. LOVELY to watch. Thanks for letting us watch you chip away at this monolith!! You're doing yeoman work.
Good job Matt! Maybe put a dust screen on the front of the radiator with quick latches that will protect the radiator and you can wash the dirt off every once in awhile.
Don't Caterpillars reverse flow fan the air from the motor through the radiator to the outside? Not normal like all other radiator systems bringing the air from the outside in through the fan . Does that make sense?
Oil is lighter, so it makes sense the grease would be at the top of the radiator. Keep up the great work. 👍
Great video as always. Look at that subscriber count. Shows what no click bait and straight forward mechanicing will get you. Glad I was there at the beginning.
I'm really impressed with the quality of your work and that you're cleaning everything thoroughly plus painting it.
As well that you're using Permatex instead of the new sealers.
Especially silicone.
I've always did what you do with Permatex on both sides of the gasket and on the items to be sealed.
It's how I was taught to do both in small engine Vocational school and Coast Guard Aviation Machinist Mate A school.
Your work on this Dozer is definitely professional level quality.
Can't wait to see you finish it and test operate it then begin on the Excavator.
Of course after they're finished you'll have to find a Skid Steer to restore and round out your collection.
Skid steer, as in steering
Just my two cents but the machine was designed with the oil cooler and when you start pushing dirt it is going to heat up fast. Granted you have a lot of mass to reject the heat but every little bit helps. Even if you install an aftermarket zip tie cooler that would be better than nothing. If you do paint the rad use a rad paint. The viscosity is such that it won't bridge the fins. Thanks for the time you put into making these.
^What he said.^ 100%
I agree about rad paint, they make paint for that besides copper if left alone will start to build up a film of corrosion that will in effect reduce its efficiency in the long term. Heck even Rustolium is better than nothing. I’ve never seen a radiator come out of a radiator shop unpainted? Maybe I’m wrong. Either way he is doing a great job!
@@Mtlmshr its a brand new core and sometimes you have to solder on a top tank on old machines or both tanks on newer machines. they cant be painted before you solder them. finished radiators are painted
I removed the oil cooler on 2 D2s and a D4 and not had a problem. Guess modern oils help but we also live in a cool climate. Maybe say in California you'd need it.
I’ve been watching all of these and I can’t wait to hear this motor run
Cant beat a brand new radiator, I’m getting all excited now to hear it running
Nice, nice work.
If the OE radiator cap is a non-pressure unit, the design engineers were not too concerned with raising the boiling point of the coolant, rather the goal being it should not drain out when the tractor is parked overnight and is circulated when it is in operation.
Pro tip: Bars Leaks. Don't use it. Back in the day my grandpa swore by it, but he was the same guy who put sawdust in the rear axle housing of every car he sold.
My thinking too, lots of old stuff wasn't designed to get pressurized. Not leaking was a bonus, if it leaked no big deal, just add more water. Dad was truck driver when he was young, in the winter they drained the "coolant" every night so it wouldn't freeze and filled with water every morning, coolant wasn't invented yet.
Again, entertaining, strange though, why does this guy and this project hold my attention. Not going to over think it...anymore...
Thanks
I would recommend putting some steel angles under the new arm rests. I put a Hahn seat on my D2 20 years ago and they are still looking good, but the arm rests failed in the angle. You are doing a good job.
Woot! Excited to watch!! "Click!! Oh, I mean [real torque click]" That was fantastic. Thanks Matt!
wait for May long weekend before you even think of painting. Or planting. Looking good. Great videos.
Really happy to see this old girl brought back to life.
That supply house is right up the road from me. The cat is starting to look good. Can't wait to see it run.
like your style..honest, do not make excuses when making a mistake..and hard working farmer..deserve more subs for sure..
I will never own a piece of heavy machinery, but I've been watching your D4 build from the beginning. I'm glad you replaced the core instead of trying to use the old core. When I'm aligning parts like your radiator sections, oil pans, or transmissions, I use a couple of studs with a slot cut in one end as locating pins for assembly. The slots allow me to use a screwdriver to remove them after a few bolts are installed.
There are studs that have allen heads built into them, saves cutting the slot and allen wrenches don't slip like a slotted screw driver.
Great jobs just your workshop makes me envious.
I hope you keep the videos comin. The ball and Dog are a crack up.
Those pakistan truck dudes would have you a new rad in 15 minutes. Great videos to watch how it's done
She's taking shape! 👍
A nice stainless steel bug screen on the front of the rad would be good to keep it from being clogged up. Nice job.
Matt, another great video and expert craftsmanship!Thank you for sharing and we are looking forward to the continued build. Stay safe my friend!
I like the old iron you work on man keep up the good work
I had a '42 2n Ford tractor, cooling system wasn't pressurized. It just metered the coolant capacity on it's own by spilling out the cap until it had the right level. Never had a problem with it, thermostat did it's job and it ran a constant temp.
You are not dragging your heals with this rebuild . It is a lot of work and time to get where you currently are with the machine and progress is going along nicely. Thanks for the video.
Always happy to see and update on this project. It is really coming together. Cannot wait to see it pushing dirt and you smiling. Also, did someone remind you to have a great day? If not, HAVE A GREAT DAY. !CLICK!
Another Rainman fan!
@@johncooper4637 The shop he works at is not too far from me. 30 minutes ish. Hoping I can make my "Chevy Thunder" youtube famous one day. LOL
Yeah, I watch Eric O as well.
I had a chocolate lab named Charlie, and he was ball-obsessed like your Charlie! I had to laugh when I saw him trying to get you to play ball with him. Sure miss my Charlie, glad to see your dog has a good life and a caring owner!
That radiator looks awesome. Maybe it could use some black paint on the core. Give Charlie some love from Texas
My TH-cam subscriptions are all about who do I want to spend time with and I enjoy spending time with Charlie and you. Your voice reminds me of Marvin the Martian. I love how you think through your fixes.
I CAN;T WAIT FOR THIS THING TO PUSH DIRT.....YOUR DOING A GOOD JOB,,,
Whoa, the CRUNCHYNESS sound when you lifted off the radiator top!
And that seat looks great!
I need to fix (probably replace) the radiator on my tractor that got a stick through it recently - at least 3 small holes (like match head size). A super quick and easy job compared to what you had to do with that Cat radiator. You are doing terrific work on the Cat. You are an inspiration to me and probably many other folks here. Wish I lived close to you so I could help out, especially when you are handling the really heavy / awkward stuff.
Good job Matt. Hope you get well soon.
One of the reasons I watch your channel is that your are very through on your clean ups and assemblies, and you have yet to disappoint my expectation’s. Thank you for the video and I hope this ole Cat meets your expectations when you are ready operate it.
very satisfying edits on the torquing footage!
Please reconsider the oil cooler . Heat kills and more than likely the cooler is for the hydraulic system . This necessary so not to cook pumps and valves or blow hoses . Whether you work an hour or all day , the Heat is the same . Hydraulic equipment doesn't work when overheated and renders the equipment useless . Then you pay triple for repairs that could have been avoided . Just think about it . BTW....I would like to be there helping with the rehab . No charge lol .
This was bothering me the whole video. From what I found online the oil cooler is for the engine oil. I would recommend the oil cooler, however Matt had indicated they aren't needed due to better quality oils, and he may be referring to synthetic. This really deserves a study on cat diesels oil cooler requirements.
Install an aftermarket auxiliary cooler. Like they use for transmissions. A bar and plate type.
I think it will be fine. We have a 1950s or earlier international T6 crawler that used a magnetic radiator cap. My understanding is the old stuff generally used high water volume to cool rather then pressurising the system like a modern machine
Welcome back D4.
retired 'worked for cat dealer 'field service 38 years your doing real complete job looks good ' alway at least glued in place one side of about any gasket then soft sealer on the other side heard you say gasket you installed may slide out of place and they do ,, also nothing wrong with new permatex red soft sealer used that mostly the last 10 + year and thought that worked best ever ---also when coolant gaskets get up to operating temp . those gasket seal off better don't use that red harding sealer its nother more than thick locktite it has it places ,, also it glues thing together than you like to never get thing apart so low contact glue 1side and soft sealer on other and tighten bolts correct torque and that about all you can do . kinda like cleanliness and fact you painting as you go ,your looking good mister ,, jack
Glad you’re feeling better!
Best series on TH-cam. Enjoy each installment.
What fasteners, they look like rivets! that's a hell of a job. Came out great. One thing to remember with air pressure testing is that water tight is not the same as air tight. If it doesn't leak/tiny leak under air you're gonna be safe.
This is turning out to be a great rebuild of the whole machine.
Wow that was some job changing the Radiator, My thought is maybe on the bolts securing the Radiator to the housing you might want to use never cease on the threads if you ever have to open up the housing again after it sits outside in the weather for a period of time.
Brother you are just to damn critical on yourself and your work! Who cares what other people think (including me🤪) your not dragging your feet on anything, it will get done when it gets done! How many people can say the completely rebuilt a tractor like that? Not many at all. As far as the rad, it’s fine as far as I can see so go with it, great job!
Sorry you were sick. Glad you are on the mend. Looks great. All my best.
Matt, I found your channel about a month ago. I binge watched the dozer series, great work. The only thing that sucks about being caught up is waiting for the new videos! Great channel, Great content. Keep up the good work.
Nice work Matt! Another excellent video as well. Hope you're feeling better now
Nice work. You sure have worked hard this puppy!! You'll be show ready.
Very fine job and don't worry so much over the radiator if it holds coolant it will be good for the long run. Just don't delete the oil cooler cause as many other people under this video have pointed out. When dozing the engine will get hot faster then just by idle or driving. I can't give any advice but I'm very impressed how well you did.
worry about it IF it boils doing work ! ps like watching updates & pups as well
Since 2019, the year of the Covid virus, I thought the word "Flu" had been removed from the English language. I'm glad you are getting well and still using legitimate words to describe an uncomfortable, but non life-threatening illness. Pushing through the sniffles and fixing that radiator was real, "Americanism", or perhaps, "Hillbillyism", if you prefer.
I think the radiator would really look nice if you paint the raised lettering black like the new ones. Keep up the great videos!
Glad you're feeling well enough to continue on with the project. Stay safe.
Looks awsome, for being 500 years old. Looking forward to more great content.
Saw someone else blow one of these completely apart (Squatch maybe?) and it was no small project. You got guts!
Kyle just did his RD4 rad.
My dad had the radiator on his 1950 D2 Record when it was about 20 years old
Congrats PNH on getting the rad and taken off the old one. cleaned-up great after the paint-job..
yellow paint lover checking in
Good job and yeah you're overthinking it. It's a no pressure system like my '28 Chrysler. Just a water tank with a pump.
Good to see you're back in action Matt.
I’m enjoying watching this project come together. Your attention to detail and your versatility is amazing. Also enjoy watching your dog. Mine “helps” me when I’m working as well. 😂
I see excavator parts. Btw, I bought a working 2000 hitachi EX35U mini excavator two year ago. I’m a year into the restoration and am almost done. When I saw your video of you buying yours I said to myself “that poor, poor guy” hahahaha
The cooling system is not pressurized. It will be fine. You might have to retighten the bolts after a few hard uses. More of a nuisance than anything. Keep an eye on your coolant.
Those seats look better than the stuff we got from Cat years ago.
Cheers
Terry
Wow looking good matt can't wait until it goes to work
The seat and the rad are looking great .understand on waiting for parts and the weather. the weather,she is grumpy this year. 😆.
Correct just to view to the Seats, nice and cool.... :) Great work with the Radiator
Awesome. You should do this full time. Excellent flow.
Sorry you were sick Matt. I'm glad you are better.
Yeah but it looks really clean and all the tubes look to be in good condition so it all worked out in the end and right about when you needed it
Hi Matt - from Sierra Vista, Arizona. I've been watching your efforts with keen interest all the way through. When I wore a younger man's clothes, I did ALL my own work on cars and bikes. My first job in the Army (back in the day) was piston engine mechanic. I understand the 'time' it takes to handle a project like your D4 - but you're doing an excellent job of documenting your work - it's fascinating to watch and we are all chomping at the bit to see you finish and crank up that restored unit!! Keep it up! John & family.
Looking good Matt thanks for sharing 🦘👍
Through, well thought out.👍👍 Great video!
Good to see you Matt, I hope you get to feeling better soon myself friend! Radiator is looking good brother and I’ll be praying for your quick recovery brother! Stay safe and healthy my friend!👏🏻👏🏻👌🏻👌🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🇺🇸
Looks great.
Another great video. Love that yellow! Waiting for warm weather in Oregon may really test your patience.
Don't worry with the dozer we all want to see more of the excavator, cant wait.
You could release that torquing part of the video as a short. Pretty entertaining.
Wow, those seat pads look great!
You are going to have a great machine. Can’t wait to see it working. 👍🏻
Your rig is going to look pretty nice when your all done.
Great video. Know you have lots of things going. Thanks for your videos. Detroit out!
Matt,
Can't go wrong with the Radiator Supply House core. I'd paint it so it doesn't turn green on ya.
Awesome Matt 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Just a suggestion Matt, that would look really nice if you painted all of the CAT logo’s and the Caterpillar lettering black. Love the content man been following this build since you started it.
Good to hear you're on the mend!
I just got over some kind of crud!
Thanks for the video! Well done!
Hope you feel better soon!! Enjoy the videos! Stay safe!
Thanks for the video Matt! Always enjoyable. In my humble opinion, the oil cooler might still be very useful - even with modern oils, most auto and equipment manufacturers use one. I guess you can monitor the situation and see where you are running and if you need to install some type of cooler. Thanks again and good luck finishing the project!
My all time favorite is Permatex 2. Spray every bolt on everything now with penetrating oil and hopefully when you get to them they will come loose. One other suggestion, sandblaster.
I want to pet that dog! The tennis ball drop was epic.
Hmmm I've been looking forward to the radiator and dreading it, I think I've worked on to many over the years!
Hope you can get rid of flu bug, kids bring it home from school ? W/the cold weather, trick to speed up dry time on your paint- add a teaspoon or 2 per pint or so of paint-Try Japan paint Dryer, it works you will be suprised. Good luck w/the bug. looking forward to your next video, hope its the winch I have one just like it w/rotten 3/4" cable thinking about going with 5/8" or just a little under 3/4" , be intrested in what you decide w/yours. Have a good one from Southern Emerald Empire.
24:45 Yep. thats better than the origanal parts. I've handled a few.
Great video I hope it warms up there I know it’s the same here
I just went through the regulator/thermostat issue myself last month.
4 to 6psi is about max
The Gates 3888 thermostat you have dose have a small hole in the seat of the valve surface for relief. The thermostat housing may have a covered bypass passage boss on the governor side (for external passage - cab heater, percolating engine heater) and returns it to the bottom radiator hose. OR an internal passage that recirculates coolant until the thermostat reopens. Yours is most likely the latter. Which may present a different problem Squatch did a video on that type of re-re-reiteration.👀🤦(search for thermostat n squatch not regulator)
YOU WILL need to make a retainer about 3/16" to a 1/4" on top of the regulator to hold it into place otherwise it will rattle around and not work properly. What I did was use a thick neoprene cork gasket and let compress in place (leaving a small gap for the seat hole to work). Hindsight i should have tried a thick O-ring first.
Once you look at it you will understand
If you need more help let me know I have lots of video footage of putting in two Gates 3888 in my D318. It shows what I did. But I highly recommend checking out Squatch's video.
Thanks Dan, I actually got the Gates part number from your thread 😁
Squatch has taken D2's and D6's apart and put them back together many times and never seems to tire of admiring the engineering behind them.
As always enjoy your patience’s and knowledge put to work restoring this project, good luck Matt.