Bambu X-1 3D Printer Modding & Problems - Noisy Ringing BEAST!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 พ.ค. 2024
- The Bambu Lab X-1 Carbon is quite possibly, the biggest leap in 3D printing in recent history, but I want to modify it... My Bambu Lab X-1 Carbon was purchased through the Kickstarter campaign and I've been printing with it for about 3 weeks now. This 3D Printer is amazingly fast, but it is also fairly noisy, and I'm having 3d print quality issues. The machine has been showing Ringing / Ghosting, and I cannot film when running it. So today we will take the Bambu Lab X-1 Carbon and mod it. We are adding sound insulation and trying to make it more stable to reduce ringing. Will it work? Find out by watching!
*** Aux Fan Support: www.printables.com/model/2564...
*** Bambu Wiki Page: wiki.bambulab.com/en/home
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www.mandicreally.com/links
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Products Used: (Some Affiliate Links)
*** Bambu Lab X1 Carbon: tinyurl.com/BambuX1Carbon
*** Foam Insulation: amzn.to/3RkaisH
*** Foil Backed Insulation: a.co/d/8owKztd
*** Electric Screwdriver: amzn.to/3QVpE7u
*** Bambu X-1 Preorder: bambulab.com/en
*** Polymaker Filament: us.polymaker.com?aff=28
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Filmed with:
*** Main Camera: amzn.to/3c6ULgV
*** Main Lens: amzn.to/3c616cp
*** Overhead Camera: amzn.to/2U4b1nZ
*** Video Recorder Used: amzn.to/3ymN90U
*** Action Camera: amzn.to/2ATHS73
*** Second Camera: amzn.to/371EhBM
*** B-Roll Lens: amzn.to/2xmg85L
*** Wide Angle Lens: amzn.to/2YiZTmH
*** Slider: amzn.to/3nGZ1Uh
*** Lav Mic: amzn.to/2DFwgR5
*** Shotgun Mic: amzn.to/2IjTJiB
*** Mini Tripod: amzn.to/2Eok8Fw
*** Monopod - amzn.to/2C1YEMU
*** Tripod: amzn.to/2yASruf
*** Gimbal: amzn.to/2FNwesV
*** Primary Lighting: amzn.to/2jHROnW
*** Additional Lighting: amzn.to/2DImspx
*** RGB Lights: amzn.to/2UUGAOk
*** Drone: amzn.to/2yDkwkI
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The opinions expressed in this video are my own, from my personal experience. This is not a paid product advertisement. Please feel free to let me know what you think of this tool, or suggest alternatives I should check out. Disclaimer: This is not a paid advertisement. This video is solely my opinions from the use of these products and based on the specifications of them. Some of the links provided are AMAZON AFFILIATE LINKS or others. Affiliate links give the MandicReally a small advertising fee for every purchase made via those links. This does not cost you anything more than if you purchased them normally.
#3dprinter #x1carbon #3dprinting - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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I usually test more in private for reviews, but this machine is so new and “different” that I’ve decided to share some of the process of learning it. That’s part of the reason this video exists at all. Do you like the idea?
I love that you did this!
that’s the right decision, probably lots of people like me who are waiting for this info before finalizing orders. Thanks!
Yea I enjoyed it and would watch more
Please keep it up. We literally love it
Interesting how this will be solved.
A 5dB decrease is huge it’s 1.5x reduction.
A change of 10 dB is accepted as the difference in level that is perceived by most listeners as “twice as loud” or “half as loud”.
I always forget to think of dB in the reality of what it is. You are right it is a pretty big change.
Sorry to be the "um, actually" guy.
+6dB is twice and -6dB is half as loud.
@@ShaunYouth "Actually", no, it's highly subjective, and varies from 6 to 10, depending on the study.
@@oorcinus upon doing further research, I have discovered that you are indeed correct. Funny thing is, the music school that I’ve worked at for the past 10 years has always taught 6 dB is the double or half number.
I just now read a paper from Harvard U that mentions this dispute. I stand corrected.
I have sound deadening left over from doing my car, 5db is worth the effort in my mind.
Despite some of the issues with print quality and some lightweight parts, it's nice to see how nicely put together the machine is as a whole, just look how clean that wiring is!
I wonder when 3D printing youtubers (and 3D printer users in general) will finally recongnize the importance of correct Linear Advance (Marlin) respectively Pressure Advance (Klipper) configuration.
Perceived 80% of problems I see posted in various 3D printing forums are caused by ignorance or misconfiguration of this feature.
Usually filament flow is calculated by the slicer software as a linear function of horizontal nozzle movement. Unfortunately molten plastic does not behave linearly when being pressed out of a nozzle. That's why someone did us all a great favor and implemented the Linear Advance Algorithm into the Marlin firmware. The makers of Klipper obviously recognized the importance of that and implemented it as well, but calling it Pressure Advance which does essentially the same.
Linear Advance (LA) needs one argument supplied by the user which is called K. Its unit on LA version 1.5 (LA15) is mm/mm/s. It describes the molten filament compression length per velocity unit. You can read more about this here marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html or the Pressure Advance version here www.klipper3d.org/Pressure_Advance.html.
K depends on the filament, its condition (age, moisture, ..), nozzle diameter and layer height. Optimally you should calibrate LA before every print, where you change one of these parameters. I found that, when I open multiple vacuum sealed spools of the same filament, each of them might still need a slightly different K to produce perfectly printed results. This is particularily the case with PETG and TPU. You can also print TPU quite fast, without striniging, when you have configured its correct K value.
When printing PLA and ABS at slower speeds you probably won't recognize the full impact of LA, because these two materials behave quite linearily in their molten state. This is why probably nobody bothered about LA when printers only could print these materials and also not very fast.
To come to the point ... his issue with the edges, he describes in the video, might also be caused by improper configuration of LA.
I know, the Bambu X1 does Linear Advance autoconfiguration before every print, which is essentially a good thing, the problem is, that the filament behaves slightly differently when printed as a first layer pattern directly on the plate, than being printed as a layer above an already existing one during a real print. This is mainly because the first layer gap between the nozzle and the plate may be slightly different than the configured layer height for the print (which is mostly the case with printers where you manually have to configure the Z-offset to the plate. I don't know if Bambu's autocalibration levels the nozzle tip to exactly the configured first layer height), and also the filament adheres differently to the plate than it would to a layer of its own material. Believe me these two factors make a difference. It's e.g. pretty impossible to determine the correct K for TPU from these patterns.
What I do to determine K ist to print a 60x10x3mm cuboid with open top (no top layers), no infill, 3 bottom layers and 3 lines thick walls. This can be printed reasonably quickly. Afterwards I examine the result.
When the vertical corners are bulgy and the walls look slightly pulled inside between them, and the extrusion at the beginnings and ends of lines is higher than in the middle of the lines, then K is set too low, if it's the other way around it's too high. Then I slightly correct K in the correct direction and reprint. I repeat this until it looks perfect.
Also when K ist too low you might not get rid of stringing, because there will be too much pressure in the hot end at the ends of a line so that the thread of plastic cannot snap off before moving to the next start of a line and will be dragged over to it.
In contrast, when K is too high, the corners will become rounded, the walls will bulge to the outside and you even might see cavities between the lines in the corners, also the Z-seam will look like the grand canyon.
Thank you for sharing this. When you are making adjustments to K, how big on an adjustment do you make? .5 mm/mm/s? Whole steps? I would like to play with this setting on my Bambu.
@@realgoose Depends on printer (Extruder (Bowden?), Hot End) Linear Advance version (1.0 or 1.5, aka LA10 and LA15), filament, printing temperature, nozzle diameter and layer height.
I don't use the Linear Advance calibration patterns like the one found on the Marlin firmware site as the patterns are printed directly on the print bed as the first layer and the filament behaves differently on the plate than when printed on layers of itself and this influences the K value. These patterns may work with PLA and ABS which are not so sensitive to these parameters but you can't get the correct K values for e.g. PETG or TPU using this technique.
What now follows repeats some of what I already said in my original comment, but I've added some details ...
I ususally print a test object, which is basically a rectangular bowl with 3 bottom layers and 3 wall lines. You can create this in most slicers by adding a 60x10x3mm cuboid to the build plate and configure it with 3 bottom layers, 3 wall lines, no infill and no top layers.
You have to print this with quite high speed and acceleration settings, at least 60mm/s but the faster the better, as the problems arising from a non optimal K value becomes more evident at higher print speeds which is obvious when you look at LA15 Ks unit. It's the filament compression length per velocity unit in mm per mm/s.
You must also ensure that the minimum layer time setting in your slicer is set in a way, that this small test object can really reach the configured maximum speed, otherwise it will be slowed down by this setting and you won't see much difference between different K values..
Then you examine it with a looking glass or your smartphone's macro lens. When the vertical edges are bulgy and the walls between are drawn slightly concavely to the inside, then K is to low, when it looks the opposite and cavities appear in the corners then K is set to high.
When K is too low you also will have a hard time trying to get rid of stringing, because the pressure inside the hot end will be to high when a line ends and the filament thread cannot snap of properly before the print head starts to move through air. Also the z seam will form a thick scar or blobs depending on your seam position setting.
When K is too high the seam may open up and look like the Grand Canyon or there will be holes in the walls when you have set its position to random.
Typical LA15 K values for most PLAs, when printed with a 0,4mm Nozzle and 0,2mm layer height on a direct drive extruder are around 0.05, PETG needs between 0.06 and 0.2, TPU between about 0.25 and 3.0(!), depending on the parameters I mentioned above. Smaller nozzle sizes, lower layer height and lower printing temperatures increase K, larger nozzle diameters, higher layers and higher printing temperatures decrease it.
Bowden extruders also increase the K value.
This is gold. Thank you @@thomasscheiblauer9775 for the lesson!
There is so much excitement revolving around this machine. For good reason, mind you. Interesting to see a minor glitch in the machine and even more interesting to see you try to fix it. You do a great job explaining everything.
Well I mean yeah, it is the first big improvement since the MK3 in 2017. Most of the market has been racing to the bottom with barely functional toys while the DIY community went full elitist with the Voron; a printer that was not only unreasonably expensive but also took upwards of 20 hours to build without counting the part sourcing.
Great vid brother. It hits the spot for all of us backers with a 4 in front of their comma. I've already been planning some interesting mods based on any bit of info I can get, and this was the absolute best. Thanks for ripping into it and showing things no other content has yet. Apparently I'll have mine by the End of October (almost 1.5-2 months later than they touted, but still excited AF) Cheers!
Thanks for your efforts. I recently received my X1C and tho I’m impressed with it I am a bit disappointed with the end result with some model’s I’ve printed. I have been changing speeds and trying other stuff tho I am not an expert in all 3D printing. I’m hoping people like you and others do come up with better profiles etc for quality prints when you need them. I’ve only been in the game for a few years and learned a lot watching reviewers like you.
excellent video! being new to 3d printing your videos and the like are what keep hobbies alive. great job being open minded to the possibilities of the machine and not just shitting on the short comings,
Man I love this channel, you’re great at explaining and your 3D printing wisdom is top tier.
Thank you for creating content. I don’t own a Bambu but I own a Ender 2 Pro and like to dream so the video for sure is entertaining.
Thanks for the look at where one might fit insulation on the inside! I've been thinking about that, but not been willing to tackle trying to open this baby up.
I'm printing mostly ABS and I got a huge gain just by putting a 3/4" thick piece of foam on top. (I don't have an AMS). Coupled with another piece between the printer and a concrete wall, I've raised my chambre temps from 45 to 55, and I think the top foam made the most difference. Of course, as you say, it's ugly, but I'm not filming mine. (Also, my printers are in a separate room so I just keep the door closed, and the room itself ends up holding in a lot of the heat.)
I've found that print quality improves a lot if you dial it down to half speed and lower heights. I'm mostly printing at 0.12mm heights, and after manually adjusting all the speeds to half the default (in slicer) I'm getting prints that are precise enough I managed to skip the "sand out the layer lines" step and jump straight to "hit it with filler primer." And even at that speed, my prints are finishing before I'm done doing the design work for the next thing. I spent about a week printing off a backlog of things I wanted in ABS and was tired of fighting my Ender-5 to get, but now that that's happened I'm only running the printer about 30% of the time because I just don't have the next design ready to go!
Finally, I personally find the noise useful; as noted the printer is in a different room and it's just loud enough that I know what's happening without being so loud that it bothers me. I've heard some people grumble about trying to sleep but I find the printer much less annoying than the teenagers two doors down!
I got the X1 because I wanted a printer that would "just work" without me having to spend a lot of time fighting with it; and a printer that could handle ABS out-of-the-box. The X1 totally fills the first need and required a trivial adjustment to deal with the second.
Enjoy watching your vids! Fabulous information and truthful reviews.
Much appreciated. 🙌🏻🙌🏻
Hope you can get that figured out, I ordered one with the AMS. Thanks for the video!
Excellent video! The editing is top notch
Came across this 9 months after posting. Keep at it! ❤
keep these videos coming please…I have a preorder in but still have probably 2-3 months before it ships to make the final decision
Stinks to wait but thinks will likely be really dialed in by then. 👌🏻
I _was_ excited about the X1. But as a lifelong industrial machine operator and now a cnc machinist for nearly 9 years(can code by hand 4 axis stuff). For all the hype key upgrades for _any_ cnc(which is what a 3d printer is(welcome to my world) are rigidity rigidity rigidity. And these got missed. That means cast beds. NOPE, not even box section C sections spot welded. injection moulded bits too. Ball screws...nope belts. So running at 24000mm/min _feeds_! on a consumer machine running belts🤔acceleration becomes a HUGE issue. Belt stretch guys!
2nd up as a dude machining rubbers, urethanes, plastics etc for the past 5(plus 9 years in plastics processing(injection,blown film and blow moulding)...if the guys who can build a factory to make the plastic say it does maybe 80mm/s print speed...but nay we want 400? That means you are fully on your own with regards to any issues. Any parts you produce and have some expensive catistrophic failure=not their problem even if the material was at fault.
And finally.
A cnc guy took 1 look at an x1 running pla(on u tube).and with it jumping around and some of the noises it was making at stock settings his verdict in under 10 seconds
"Thats machine abuse, slow it down"
Good luck with longevity.
Thats why your prints are crapping out. Or the bambu slicer is g3/g2ing corners to dodge belt stretch. I was hoping an Aussie could get it right and not cheap out like chinese 3d printers, but no, they added "cool" marketing hype stuff and didnt get a solid machine first.
Great vid like watching your journey with this.
The noise level I completely agree with, but I havent had any issues with ringing. I print a lot of cosplay related stuff meaning im often printing at max build volume and I would see alot of ringing in my other FDM style printers when printing taller objects. The X1 Carbon w/AMS has been a game chznger for me and has easily doubled my output and greatly improved the quality of my prints. I couldnt be happier unless there were a larger version.
This is good to hear. Hope I can get similar results!
As much as noise can be loud, the productivity of this machine allows me to overlook that. Prints that take 4 hrs can be done in almost 1. Plus you can make a custom enclosure out of plywood or acrylic which will help with heat and noise.
Great video. Great music. Great ideas. Great solutions. Outstanding video. ♥
I know this is an older video, but figured I could still share my knowledge. There is a product that is made for sound dampening for studios called sheetblok. I think that product or if you were able to get a sheet of butyl rubber to install you would be more than pleased with the results.
great job much appreciated.
I'd assume they use a fairly aggressive form of vibration compensation. If you read up on klipper's input shaper types you'll find they try to give you the best option between reducing ghosting and not smoothing sharp corners.
tl;dr - I agree that bambu lab's auto calibration is too aggressive and subsequently results in rounded corners. You can make a new printer profile with custom code to set the linear advance (k-value) to be what you want after running a manual linear advance calibration test (M900 k[x.xxx]) and completely ignore their M900 M-values.
If you look at the machine start code in the bambu slicer, you can find the g code for the 3 calibration lines starting with k0.040, k0.020, and k0.000. From the looks of things, it looks like it is changing the volumetric flow volume and then scanning which line looks "best" and then chooses that for its outer wall volumetric flow setting.
To find the start g-code field, left-click on the edit icon next to the printer preset, activate the "advanced" flag, and check out the machine G-code tab. You can see the code for how bambu lab runs their printer and can use that code to make your own profiles in PrusaSlicer or modify them to override their autoflow calibration routine. Unfortunately I have not found a way to modify their custom g code to change how it chooses its "optimum" flow values.
Excellent input. I’d explored the g-code a bit, but when I review things I try my best to stick with what I’m presented with. That said, tuning settings like that are basic on other machines so I don’t see issue there. I’ll explore tuning in my own settings and slicing outside of Bambu Studio. Thanks. 👌🏻👌🏻
One of the folks from Bambu chimed in on the discussion on the Facebook group (On the post where I linked this video). They informed me that the machine can use standard Linear Advance K-value tuning, but it normally uses a more "adaptive" form that uses L-values. Namely L1000 is default but they showed improvement on the Stealthburner print with L700 values. So I'm going to start playing with tuning that before I go to K-values. I'm archiving this information for a follow-up video for sure.
@@MandicReally any news on this? would be interested in hearing what its like when you want to go out of the "predefined" stuff they give you (when you might need to, like in this case)
@@kay00 I basically never run their pre-defined profiles as is anymore. I should do the follow up to this video but have had too many other projects on my plate. I''l.l try to get to it soon-ish. Hard part is testing gets time consuming fast and testing just to film even more so.
@@MandicReally Any follow up on this? And any more insight into reducing noise? Thanks. :)
Hello, I watch a few of your videos and i noticed you mentioned you worked as a custom auto mechanic. Curious to see your reasons for jumping into 3D printing or how did you start. Also did you have prior experience with 3D printing as a whole, as well as working with 3D modeling on fusion?
I enjoy your content, and your storytelling is second to none :-)
Regarding ringing: I haven't seen it anywhere else than on machines for precision machining of metal, but if you really would dampen resonance within the printer itself, wouldn't you have to bolt it to a heavy foundation? Lathes for instance are bolted to the floor, and the printer could be likewise (or bolted to a stack of paves). There are probably no obvious places for it on the Bambu, but the printer must have some kind of feets.... It might seem drastic, but for a machine that fast, and "for science" it might be worth considering.....!?
I would 100% mount some of that thin foil insulation on the outside via a magnet so it isn't permanent. That way you can also take it on and off vs summer and winter temps.
Very impressed with this review and super helpful because the Bambu is on my list as an upgrade to my Prusa Mk3s. Unfortunately the Bambu isnt currently ticking all the boxes I need it to.
Which boxes are missing for you?
@@devrim1134 I think if I didn't have a Prusa Mk3s I would purchase it or one of the others on my list. As it stands it is a lot quicker than the Prusa and would tick the multimaterial box which the Prusa doesn't. However I had thought that with the enclosure the noise level would be equivalent to the Prusa which is obviously not the case. I am really not keen on using the cool plate with glue sticks.. it seems a step back but I want the LIDAR feature which is a big step forward. I contacted Bambu about this, asked if there would be an update to get the LIDAR to function better with the textured PEI plate. The answer was that it could never be as accurate with the textured plate as the cool plate so use the cool plate to flow calibrate the filament and then switch in the textured plate and deselect flow calibration. This makes sense but is a bit clunky.. I suspect they will work on this. At this stage the print quality isn't quite sorted and I suspect will be significantly improved over the coming months. Overall the product and software appear to need some tweaks. At the moment I'm considering the Bambu x1 Carbon, the Anker Make M5 and the FL SUN V400.. Not an easy choice, all have pros and cons.
@@dworkin7110 thnx for your explanation! Im new to 3d, don’t have a printer yet, need to make some decisions as well :)
Great Video on the X1 carbon
I would have used the car sound damping on the whole thing. It designed to reduce vibrations and silver layer would have brighten up the inside and help retain heat.
I did use it everywhere. Anywhere you see the foam material there is the asphalt insulation underneath of it. They are layered. I was concerned the shininess would affect the "Lidar camera" on the print head as some LED mods have shown to do, so decided against that here.
That AMS buffer on the back is crying out for some standoffs and maybe some additional support. I'm still waiting on a unit for now. I am curious as to why you didn't try some insulation on the back of the machine instead of the area you couldn't fit it on the inside. That should help some with the heat loss. Also, it might be worth printing some TPU footrests to better isolate the machine. It would also be interesting to try a sheet of insulating foam on the top of the machine under the AMS to see if it helped. Heat from the machine can't be good for the AMS anyway. Thanks for the video and for sharing. Sometimes you just have to try it to get answers.
That fan thing in the start is only an issue for the first few machines they sent out, in later machines they have the fans screwed to the walls, worth checking your before printing this support thing
Good efforts!
Thank you very much
5db is a good achievement, it's a logarithmic scale. 3db equals to doubling of sound, so 5db is reducing the loudness almost in 4 times
Great video😂
I'm curious if plasti-dipping those panels would help. It's thin enough to not worry about clearance in the tight spots and corners where panels join. it's thinner than the insulation, but you could also dip both sides if you wanted to.
It would also look better imo.
You may not like the look of aluminum foil but just for a quick reference my qidi x-cf gained about 20c ambient air temp after adding real thermal insulation and coating the entire chamber with aluminum foil insulation tape. I can hit 75c while printing polycarbonates now and thats without an actively heated chamber. Noise is significantly reduced and like you said, the printer is noticably cooler to the touch (as well as the room it prints in). Just go overkill with insulation. You won't regret it. The sooner you get to 75c+ the better. Polycarbonate will print like PLA if you can get your chamber hotter.
Thanks!
Have you checked if it's the slicer generating smoother edges? I've also noticed that slicing STLs is different and the slicer fails with some models if in 3MF format.
Two layers of mylar blanket should help in those thight spots. its best if those two layers of mylar are separated by a layer of air (make a gasket you can glue the mylar on, the gap provided by the gasket does not have to be wide 2mm allready does a lot)
The function over form has its place. I really like your voron and if it was a pita the ass to build it that way, even better. Some things are worth the effort to over complicate them. Love it, Good job - Thanks for the vid on the bambu X1 - Its really cool that a machine like that is available and I like watching videos about it. Owning one....zero interest. hmm
One thing about Db is that 5-10 is not twice as much it's incrementally more. So a 5Db reduction is really good actually!
That's a great video. Ultimately the results were not worth the effort, with no real improvement in noise cancelling or quality, but I'm sure many had the same ideas, so thanks for putting the effort in :-)
Hi
I haven't received the device yet, but I'm looking forward to it.
Regarding your ringing problems:
I would do the calibration the way you will print later; so set it up exactly where you will need it later, with the heat bed, with the filament threaded in and (!) with the DOOR CLOSED!
Because an open door shifts the balance of the whole device, the vibrations propagate in a completely different way, etc.
Give it a try, you can't lose anything :)
Greetings from Switzerland
Thanks for the input, I however did all of that. The door was only open for filming purposes (fairly sure I put a notation in saying as much). Actual tests were done with the door closed during calibration. I've improved quality since this video and will do a follow-up, but none of my improvements can be related to the calibration process itself unfortunately.
You said you were going to post a template for the bottom of the printer. I don’t see it.
For temperature that small square you pointed to: it’s far enough from the case that you can slide butyl mat behind there without it touching anything.
I put butyl mat on the inside and outside (I used metal finish with no logos, it looks like a retro spaceship. It helps the high frequencies for sure. I didn’t put it on the bottom, which I will now after seeing your video.
I also put the whole thing in a broken wine fridge. I put active cooling on it for PLA prints with some custom designed baffles for sound. I’m in the process of adding extra insulation inside the fridge on the inside. Butyl mat, then siless hybrid, then maybe some foam (it seems to be harder to work with, if I put it in the wrong place I can’t move it without tearing.
I just ordered one today
Where’s that file you mentioned?
Hi, regarding the sound, would placing the insulation outside (as an outer shell) improve sound dampening?
I recently got into 3D printing and looking for a fast one but I’m concerned about the sound it makes and the speeds the Bambu X1C makes.
Thanks! Great video on dismantling the printer’s shell
Sound dampening should be done closer to the sound source for maximum effect. Outside of it the noise has a chance to resonate inside of the metal structure of the machine. More dampening on the outside wouldnt hurt, but would likely be ugly and less effective than inside. Unless you just build a big enclosed box, but then you run the risk of temperature issues with the electronics.
The car audio stuff you used, be careful with in the heated area. Cheaper stuff (like you used) is made with cheap materials like asphalt that will melt under heat. Happens all the time to cars. If you start it start to melt, pull it asap before it starts to drip and get something higher quality. It will work Much better for resonance control, and won't melt.
But if you can use a single sheet of the CLD material, it will perform much better. If it's still loud, get some Mass loaded vinyl and glue that onto the areas where there is foam.
i wonder what the sound insul. will do for temps? Im buying a couple shortly, and it gets hot here and humid in Australia. i would have plasti dipped the silver noise insul. ive just got an old server cabinent im going to install it into.
8:24 I printed the exact same Stealth Burner cover using Bambu Lab ABS at 50% default speed and all the corners came out crisp.
About the temp of the housing, why does everybody think it needs to be cooking in there? I print ABS at 35C Chamber temp just fine. What warps at cracks prints is draft and temp variations. Heck, before that I even printed ABS and ASA on a Prusa with only a plastic bag over it.
Any verdict on the paver? You still using it? Did you ditch the rubber? Did you solve the corner and ringing issues after talking to Bambu?
One final thing I may do,as I’ll have this in garage, is get pink foam board insulation like r9 or r12.
Then build a compartment on the back and both sides that will sit tight around the printer.
It should help a great deal with sound and chamber temp.
Then for your aesthetics it can just be removed like a can coozie.
I’ve got some plans to build a few “cabinets” for printers. Maybe something along these lines is in order for them. A more refined enclosure setup maybe.
I assume this might cause issues with the electronics or lifespan of the printer unless you actively cool them with room temp air or colder, like with any other printer
Did you dry your filament?
I have a dryer and try to dry my filament every week to few weeks, depending on the season and humidity levels.
Wait your fan doesn’t have screws? My X1 Carbon has screws that bind it to side panel.
Ringing will generally increase with belt tension - but conversely, looser belts will also mean softer corners. That's un-compensated, of course. Surface the printer is on has some effect, but it's generally minimal, unless the printer is featherweight. Also, the lighter the motion system, the higher the ringing frequency will be, making it more noticable. Finally, overshoots in corners can also be due to belt springiness.
I'd recommend trying to tighten/loosen the belts as a first step in finding the cause.
no - the tension of the belt just shifts the frequency around
@@TechTomVideo Correct, and guess what happens when the wavelength is longer than the longest side of a printed object ;)
Additionally, what do you think happens when you shift the frequency outside of a resonance?
@@oorcinus you definetly should learn one thing or another about frequency and resonance.
what you're doing is wishful thinking.
You can't pick one part out of a parts network and claim something about it, without taking the complete machine into account.
your way of thinking is understandable, but your claim is not valid when it comes to physics
@@TechTomVideo Sure, bud, i’ve only been writing about and solving the problem of ringing in corexy and bed slinger machines for 10 years, it’s all just been wishful thinking.
Have you thought about upgrading the backside fan to a noctua?
Currently working on changing that 24v fan with a 12v noctua one
Check my videos I did one about that. th-cam.com/video/3M76VUJzwqY/w-d-xo.html
It will be interesting to see how many of your mods go into the mk2.
A little bit of the sound insulation would be very easy for them to install at the factory and go a LONG way I think. Just some thinner stuff like we use in building cars (similar to what modern cars have in their doors). We shall see.
For your rounded corners, try to see if there is a "corner velocity" or "jerk" setting. having those high makes for faster prints but rounded corners with ringing
It is a closed source printer. There are no settings menus to tweak things like that. The slicer doesn’t have anything beyond general acceleration and speed settings.
That was the point of my statement about Klipper. I have NO IDEA what the machine is setting when it does it’s own calibrations and no way to tune them manually to test. It’s all a black box. That may be good for a newbie, but it is very limiting otherwise.
@@MandicReally there is probably a setting in the firmware but it’s not available to the user. Curious to see what bambu lab has to say about this.
The max jerk is set to 9mm/s for X and Y in the slicer, so not at a point I'd expect to see significant rounding.
Hey, one thing that makes sense for me is that the acceleration is to high and that's what makes the edges more soft, as in klipper implemetation of input shaper it displays max acceleration not to introduce smoothing on edges.
I’ve had mines for two weeks and I love it only used pla and petg so far
I have a Carbon X1 and found your video as I'm trying to get it simply to print a round hole. The test I ran was a 3/8" OD washer with a 1/8" ID in the 4 corners and center. the two on the left side of the bed were only 0.007" out of round where the two on the right were 0.015"... I'll try tightening the belt and putting on a more solid surface... Possibly look at the infill pattern and see if concentric infill would work
If you’ve got an AMS, remove it from the top of the machine. I haven’t done a video to show yet but that was the biggest improvement I’ve found so far. I’ll cover it soon. I also print at 50% or less of default speed. It’s still plenty fast.
@@MandicReally YEP! and I moved it to the floor with more of a "repeatable". I was just coming back here to reply that I found taking the AMS off did the trick. I now print at full speed for most parts and then if I really need within a few thou I slow it down! It dawned on me that the moment of inertia of the AMS is variable especially with full spools. I am going to build a table and get a bit longer tube so I can place it under it. I was even considering adding a damped pendulum weight under it... then I thought better of that as it would be a science experiment on it's own. Thanks again
@@stevenabbott4628 Glad to hear it worked for you too. I NEED to do a video about it. It is sad that Bambu clearly designed the machine to put the AMS on top, but it is a terrible idea for the machine in practice.
I know this is an older video. I just purchased the BL X1CC and am watching a lot of videos about it. Did you try the anti-vibration feet you can buy for $10? I've only seen 1 video about them so far and he basically took them off right after putting them on. They do make the printer move/shake more, but to me, that means if you have multiple printers on the same table, then it's not going to transfer it's vibrations to the printers sitting adjacent. Makes logical sense in my mind, but I don't have the tools to measure that scientifically.
I can't be the only one that caught the Linus Tech Tips burn, and I can't wait to order my x1 carbon and start a TH-cam channel wish me luck 🤞
Im getting ready to purchase the X-1C but plan on using DYNAMAT throughout the interior you should look into it you can get the internal cabin to a temp of 60c with the reflectiv Dynamate its only 50mil thick so you should be alble to cover the internal cabin without any interference hope this helps
Dynamat is the same product type as the stuff I applied. Butyl with a foil backing. I just used a generic version that costs WAY less.
@@MandicReally yes but didn’t you only use in on the bottom?
What Asa setting to get such a good print. I printed one of the same using asa and my print on the curve wasn’t very good
I know you're going to hate me:
Try laundry dryer anti vibration dampers ON TOP OF THE stone paver. amazing difference in sound and vibration management!! (coming from a prusa i3 mk3s+)--> and I was on some hollow ikea lack table. so. yeah try that.
Build another enclosure to go over the top of the X1 to provide better sound proofing, similar to a recording studio - room within a room, completely de-coupled from each other.
The most unpleasant noises are coming from the fans if printing material that needs cooling and from the motors when changing directions. Printing gyroid-infill for example is very loud while other infills far less annoying. The most especially fan-related noises coming from the back of the printer and just putting a thick blanket behind does quite the difference.
Nice work, would have been easier to made a sound deadening box with insulation for the printer but wouldn't have looked as nice without work.
The amount of sass at 3:55 had me rolling 🤣
I don't think they are loud but I started with a mendel and a j-head.
Compared to a print-r-bot with DRV based drivers, they are silent 5 year's ago 65-70db was a best case 10 year's ago 80db+ was the norm with diy printers
looks like I'm going to have to get some insulation because it's in my office and this printer is so loud I won't be able to work during the day due to the noise.
From appearances it looks like the vibration is worse because the rubber paver isn't a flat surface at all and the stone paver can move on it quite easily.
I got my X1C one week ago. The speed is amazing .... BUT .... i am really disappointed from the print quality. The print quality from my MK3S is so much better. Bambulab need to provide optimized configuration settings with much lower speeds. For most of the people quality is much more important then speed. The X1C is loud and shaking like hell with this high speed (default) settings. Configurations for high quality (much slower) prints needs to be provided in Bambu Studio from my pov.
I got some flawless results using the default, just halfed the motion speed to 10k and this surface smoothing in the slicer works very well.
You seem pretty experienced with this sort of thing so despite the official recommendation Id love to see you try out TPU/soft pla on the AMS and give your findings, results and problems.
I absolutely plan to give it a shot when I get mine given I too have a lot of tinker experience, but I've been curious ever since seeing it.
The AMS doesn't work with TPU, but directly feeds the results are amazing even I'm printing at 120 to 150 mm/s default.
TPU does not work in the AMS because it gets stuck and can cause damage, you need to feed TPU in directly from the back hole
Random thought: is the accelerometer sensor that is supposed to tune out the resonances... securely fastened?
I actually found the setting that makes those corners sharper. I didn't like it so I left it as is but I don't remember what it was. I just remember experimenting with it. If I find it again I'll repost
Im pretty sure its arc fitting. I'll try printing something and get back
Is there an update from Bambu Lab on the concerns of the ringing/ghosting?
considering the flatness variance of your concrete and rubber, maybe just cut 4 small corner pads. Or go NASA style and use 3 so it will always have stable contact(in many areas all of their floor equipment is spec'd for 3 casters or legs). Regarding the chamber temperature and sound reduction. Gaps, even tiny ones, are the #1 enemy. It may be easier to add a complete external cabinet. MDF, rockwool and a door gasket if you *really* don't want to hear it.
Would love to see your results printing it at half speed on the X1 to see if your ringing is gone.
In the other video I just saw bambu suggested to increase speed. and I guess that might help, I have gone down to 50ms, same as my stock ender and the ender beats it in print quality. Looking back I wish I did not buy this printer.
@@solasauto😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I'm having some pretty severe ringing on my X1 as well - but my ringing has several "waves". I've done pretty much all the same things - with the exception of the insulation (belts, calibration, dampening, etc) and while it has improved a tiny bit, it's still doing it. I'm seeing it especially on compound curves, and since I print a lot of characters, I'm seeing a lot of it. I even tried slowing down the machine to about 60% of "normal" speed ... and the ringing is still there. Re-orienting the model in the slicer just relocates the ringing. I really hope that Bambu can figure out what the heck is going on because it's an amazing printer. So, you're not alone. I'm currently doing one more test print, and then I'm going to be firing off results, pics, 3mf files and descriptions to hopefully get them to tell me what is going on ....
Is your AMS on top of the machine? If so, Remove it, Do a calibration, retest. That made the biggest improvement for me. I’ll do a follow up sometime soon.
@@MandicReally I don't have the AMS - but I have another X1 coming in tomorrow. I'm going to run tests on it - same prints - to see if I get the same behavior. I did some tests today where I copied over settings from Prusa Slicer (my MK3 prints these models perfectly - but much more slowly) and then I used 2X the Prusa's speed settings. The results were much better than what I was seeing before, but the ringing was still there. I'm also finding that the ringing is quadrant-based - it shows up in the 3-6 o'clock area and the 9-12 o'clock area. The artifacts also seem to be about the same size on the model no matter the scale ... which points to mechanical as opposed to software issues. I also sent a bunch of pics and 3MF files to Bambu Lab - we'll see if they get back to me with anything other than "print slower" ... ;) Hopefully, we get a slicer/software update that fixes it.
@@MandicReally Just a follow-up: I got hold of Bambu tech support and they saw my pics and my files and suggested that I clean the carbon rods using the instructions on their website. I didn't have a lot of faith that this would work as the printer only has a dozen or so prints on the clock - BUT - I cleaned the rods per the instructions and 99.9% of the ringing went away - poof. I'm a happy printer nerd again :) You should be able to find the instructions under the Troubleshooting on the Wiki - look for: abnormal-xy-axis-resistance
I print a lot of PLA silk filament, which means I print the outer layers slow {80 mm/s), but I still have considerable ringing.
I don't really know what to do about that.
It would have been cool to see a test where you wrap the whole machine with insulation to see if that helps more since the insides are so limited.
Just as an experiment, and it doesn't need to be glued permanently.
yep just a heavy moving blanket wrapped around the whole thing
Just curiously, did you shop at the Lowes in HIcksville?
Nope, I'm in Philadelphia PA
I may be blind, but where could that dxf be? The X1 is for shure a loud one, would like to tame it.
Easier to add insulation to exterior? And a nice cover over it made of bamboo!
Exterior insulation would allow the panels to absorb heat, increasing time to heat up.
I dont think it'll make a huge difference in the ringing, but one thing i noticed. If you watch the video for the sound comparison before and after, the printer is extremely shaky on the pavers.
You should do a new noise test now that they released a quiting update..now , even without sound proofing, the printer is super quite..I had ordered sound proofing before the update, day after it arrived, software update was released here .don't know if I still need sound proofing..gonna instal it anyway..
On the rounded corners, have you tried bumping up the flow rate for your filament (or is your filament actually smaller than the slicer thinks it is; exactly 1.75mm by default)? Your top surface looks like it might be marginally under extruded which could be improved from adjusting the same settings.
I'm presuming that the corners are not extruding out quite as far as they should be, which is totally the opposite of the issue that I had, and dropping my flow rate slightly (and ensuring that my filament diameter was correct in the slicer) totally fixed the issue and got me the crisp (not over-extruded) corners that I was after, and a better top surface.
Mine was massively over extruding with this Polymaker ASA at the default “Generic ASA”
Values. The flow calibration could not compensate for it. I’m down to .90 flowrate (and it’s accurate dimensionally, Polymaker makes good stuff). I had to go that low to stop the overextrusion I was getting. Which on my Ender 3 I actually run at .93 now, this stuff just really flows.
I can’t seem to nail a balance of extrusion on this machine. The top (and bottom) layers have minor underextrusion, but I’m happier with that than the substantial overextrusion I was getting.
I really wish I could see the settings the machine is using. It seems to be like a Corner Velocity, Linear (Pressure) Advance issue, but I can’t tell because I have no data.
So at say 0.91 you were getting over extrusion on the top and bottom?
If you bump up the flow rate, despite the top and bottom layers being overextruded, do the corners improve?
I agree it would be nice to not just have to blindly trust the flow calibration data to be generating useful linear advance values.
Based on the G-code, if it has an issue with calibration it also just runs with default values - I'm not sure whether or not it would give you an error in this case to inform you of the flow calibration failure, unless it detects a hardware error/error in sensing generally.
@@mowcius I don’t believe it gives you an error because I’m 100% certain at the default .95 value it was just using its own default values. No flow rate adjustment any difference to the corners. I don’t think those are at all flow related. If they were I’d expect to see it in the perimeters of the print in at least a some other way (more or lesss noticeable layer lines, or gaps in between perimeters while printing). I truly believe the issue is to do with either Square Corner Velocity and/or the Input Shaper implementation.
It’s hard to Discuss this stuff when we don’t even know what terms they use for these settings or what the firmware is doing with any of the data. I’ll be reaching out to Bambu and looking for their input & requesting deeper information.
@@MandicReally I think you should let us know as quickly as possible how they helped you.
It’d concerning that a reviewer is having these issues and they haven’t already reached out to you to try and help solve the problems.
How are is peasants going to get any help?
@@frictitious I bought mine. They don’t know me anymore than anyone else (that I’m aware of). I requested a review unit months ago and never got a response. But I’ll definitely make an update when I figure out what the heck is going on.
Decouple the FMS from the top of the X1. The weight and movement of it on top will amplify movement.
Already done and will be covering its benefits in an upcoming video. 👌🏻
Any idea what types of upgrades or mods we can do without voiding our warranty?
Think about who made the printer.... dji engineer they build drones it calibrates vibration like a drone does im assuming with gryo resonance compensation put it on suspension not hard mount like flight controllers are mounted inside drone
Hi. Looking for the dxf you mention. Just can’t find it
What about the filament you're using? I don't think any of them look that great in all honesty. But I really think filament quality is a massive factor. Appreciate all the testing and first look though, still can't wait for mine!
Polymaker ASA. It flows almost too well, I’ve had to tune it pretty thoroughly on my Voron, Prusa, and Ender 3 but it prints well on those for the most part. The multicolored one in this video was a test part to see how the Palette 3 handled ASA. But this is part of my point about what’s happening here. The filament is quality but requires some attention. The X-1 kind of lacks the ability to much. I can tune speed, temps, and flow rate but not really anything else.
@@MandicReally Ah I see, yea I will be missing that feature too. I really like some of Polymakers stuff, especially their polylite pla pro and polymax pla series are awesome. But for some reason the roll of blue asa I got from them just would not print well.. even after thorough drying! The Prusament asa I have prints great in comparison, so I don't know what's up but my sample size of 1 with polymaker asa hasn't been so good! I printed my stealthburner ender 3 mod in Snolabs PC+ and it turned out pretty nice, but I already stopped using it because I hate how it covered up the direct drive extruder!
So thoughts here. One improvement I haven’t seen but I’m curious about is purchasing another cooling fan setup(or printing and adding own fan) and setting up on the opposite side, it looks like enough room but I haven’t gotten mine yet to confirm. Other thought, have you tried slowing the print down so it doesn’t have to compensate as much on the corners? I get speed is one eye catcher with this machine but to me it’s the minimal setup required to immediately print, meaning you don’t have to know how to calibrate each detail, for the most part the machine does that for you
The problem with a second fan on the other side is that they’d be fighting each other. You might get better cooling on the far side, but I’d think poor cooling in the middle, where the the fans would tend to cancel each other out.
@@DEtchells that’s not how airflow works… there would be no “cancel out”. They might taper off or cause an upstream and a downstream based on airflow and temperature, but after first few layers(usually fan off during those anyway) it will hit on either side of the part anyway
@@apollyonabaddon1402 Ah, great point. I was thinking about the airflow as if the part wasn’t there. (Duh) You’re right, of course, the whole problem is that the part interrupts the airflow, which is why the far side doesn’t cool as well. Having a fan on the far side would definitely help there.
Could you talk a tiny bit about what speeds you chose to run these tests at?
How were the corners at non-speed-benchy speeds/accel?
The ones in this video were in entirely “default” settings. Base speed settings of the .2mm profile, and “Standard” Speed on the machine. Some of my other tests were done at manually adjusted lower speeds. One was started at the “Silent” setting on the machine which cuts the speed by 50%. That one lifted off the plate so I wasn’t able to complete it.
I haven’t wanted to pursue the speed Avenue as much because if that IS the issue, then Bambu had a problem. Making a machine fast for just the sake of fast, is not a good thing. So I’ve focused on maintaining the speed and trying to improve there. Something that should be attainable with proper settings (I believe).
@@MandicReally I guess the question becomes, "is Bambulabs pushing the machine faster than it can go with regard to accel or is their resonance comp just not tuned well?"
I'd love to see a test where we could see X ringing vs Y ringing to see if it's compensating for the weight of each axis differently.
What carrier did it come with? Been waiting some time for mine now.
Carrier? You mean shipping carrier? FedEx.
I would do the car audio sound deadening material for all of the panels.
It works better than the foam stuff in my opinion.
I did. Everywhere you see the Foam stuff it has the foil material underneath it. It is doubled up.
@@MandicReally ok my mistake, I think what you did here is fantastic. I have one of these on preorder.
I’m going to do this same thing.
Are you sure you’re not getting good vibration correction because the table simply isn’t stable enough.
Maybe try doing the correction on your garage floor, and then printing the part for the Voron?
@@frictitious I did that at @14:50 it only made a marginal difference. Still not to the quality I would like to see.
@@MandicReally My mistake, I listened while working on one of my other printers.
That’s disappointing to hear….
@@frictitious I know of another person who printed a StealthBurner shroud without issue (multicolor as well). Mine just… isn’t. So maybe it’s just my machine? Maybe it’s a bigger issue? I don’t know yet.
First minute in and I'm subbing.
sound stuff for cars will be better everywhere. What you want is heavy mats and not those lightweight ones. The heavy rubber mats will absorb a truckload more then the others.
I put the thinner but heavier material everywhere the thicker foam material is. It’s double layered.
did you ever fix the issues with the smoothing/ringing?