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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ก.ย. 2024
- Here is my experience with the #bambulab #x1carbon. It's been an interesting journey to say the least. Like I said, I go more in-depth on printables and the model is even available to download if you would like to try it on your machine and share your results.
Facebook post: www.facebook.c...
Printables: www.printables...
Video editing progress update: Can you tell I was nervous? I can. Oh man, recording a voice over was such a daunting task for me. I've never been a people person so I naturally have a lot of stage fright and I thought I had gotten over that with some public speaking classes, but this was just beating me up. I am not sure why though. I will get better and more relaxed over time. I am not so sure I improved as far as the technical aspect goes, but I did what I could. Still having fun with this journey and I love challenging myself to learn and do more and more each time I make a video.
#titan3d #3dprinting #smallbusiness
What also helps is not trusting the Autotensioning system for the belts. Just listen to the tone each belt gives when twitching it like a guitar. You can get within 4Hz accuracy which is enough. If they the belts dont sound the same just open the screws for the Autotensioning and move the head around and thighten them back up. If they still sound the same then you need to do it manually. Just adjust the lower sounding belt to match the higher pitched belt. Loosen the screws of the lower pitched belt and push the Autotensioning mechanishm and the spring further by hand so you get more tension on the belt. Screw it down again and listen for the tones again. Do until they sound the same. It helped me tremendously.
Thanks for this comment. I made sure the belts on my P1S have the same frequency pitch and now the artefacts are less. Yay!
Also, per your point on print speed and your work here. Everything vibrates. For every printer and corresponding print job (shape, size, density, filament type), their is a sweet spot that will output the highest quality print for that part. Think, Hz, Mhz, Ghz, etc… Think music…. It blows my mind how many times I’ve dialed in a part, hit that spot and thought “Oh this is incredible, now I’lll try that other part.” and it’s like starting all over again. Setup, Profile, dialing in, for me at least (I’d love feedback from you all) is where the work is. Once you find the zone, it’s incredible how amazing the results can be. Anyway, subscribed. Great review, honest and even greater you worked with them and avoided going the trash route by beating them down.
Thank you! As my first go at making s full length video I was quite a bit nervous. My machine never really had a sweet spot. I tried speeds from 50 to 300mm/s and it was always present. The only thing that changed that was matte and carbon fiber filled material and even then it was still there, it's just less visible because of the surface texture.
@@Titan3DAZ I hear you and? I know how absolutely crazy it can make you when you systematically step through and keep searching for answers yet none seem to do the trick! Keep in mind, THIS is how we learn above reading, watching videos and everything else! Again, great job, keep it up and good luck growing the channel! You’re a natural, so keep it up!
Hi. the same problem with my printer.
After week of trying to resolve it, I went to internet and found a lot of comments from people who trying to help but they don't.
In few hundred comments in facebook, reddit, youtube and bambu lab forum, 90% comments are like "hey, its simple, dry your filament" or "just clean carbon rods".
I tired reading this. I hope my note will help.
What I did:
Cleaning carbon rods many times - doesn't help.
Belt tensioning following instructions many times, calibration every time - doesn't help.
Belt tensioning manually - using special tool, the printer head in one place and tensioning every 5hz - from message on the screen "belts too loose" to "belts too tight" - doesn't help.
Tension the belts on same frequency and not - doesn't help.
Cleaning idlers and belts, centring the belts on idlers (the belt don't take walls on the idlers) - doesn't help.
Putting the printer on the stone floor and other types of floors, putting on the table, rubber and silicone(soft) or even my legs - doesn't help.
Adding some weight, adding vibration absorbers (sheets, something like bitum) for change frequency of resonation of chamber/frame of the printer - doesn't help, but now it makes only 45db (55-65db before, and now the AMS seems very loud, not printer).
Manual bed calibration - doesn't help.
Turning off bed level compensation (G29.2 S0) - bed doesn't do small corrections during print - doesn't help and is visible how the bed is bad (not flat).
Changing nozzle diameter to 0.6 for check it is not extruding issue - doesn't help, pattern didn't change.
Also:
It is NOT vibration compensation issue - command for turning off its "M975 S0". You can add custom gcode in slicer on some layer and check difference.
It is NOT lidar and calibration of flow. In gcode you can see that it makes 3 lines with K0.04, K0.02 and K0. Lidar only see which line is better and picks this value. If lidar doesn't see the good line - it takes standard value K0.02.
It is NOT infill pattern, tested model printed with no infill.
It is NOT "hey, add more walls" - any number of walls, pattern is here.
"Just increase speed" it is like "if an engine in your car can't handle idle - just hold your leg on the gas pedal"
For me, acceptable speed of outer walls is 50-150, the test tower is one print, from 50 to 150 mm/s, increasing by 2 mm/s.
Maybe I missed something, Ill add later.
Exactly the same for me. I did all of that and had no success. I'm glad I'm not the only one who went through all that with no luck.
Та же хрень. Вот ломаю реперь голову, что с этим делать
I backed their KS. I also backed the Ankermake M5. If you think the Bambu is bad, you would cry with the Anker. I also have the Bambu issues. As someone who is new to 3d printing, I didn't have the knowledge to vocalize what I was seeing. So I was told everywhere it was my fault. I'm glad you posted this because it gives me a tiny bit of satisfaction knowing it wasn't all me creating the errors.
Oh yeah, I have heard that the Anker was no good at all. I am told everywhere it is my fault too. Though it doesn't bother me anymore as Bambu has acknowledged this issue and are looking into it's fix now. Definitely feel free to ask questions and suggest things that you'd like to see. I want my channel to be about helping the newest of members in the community.
@@Titan3DAZ they need to fix some hardware or is software related? i need to know cuz i wanna buy one and maybe i should wait a couple a month before, im not rich and im not ok paying so much money for problems...
@Smartphone Videography it's hardware for sure. I slowed mine down to slower than an ender 3 and reduced the accelerations to lower than an ender 3 and this problem never went away. I returned my 2 machines and got a refund. I know they'll have a fix for it in the near future, but it really bothered me that they claimed near flawless printing out of the box, but my machines couldn't do that.
Honestly I love their customer support and other companies need to look at that cos if bamboo get their printers correct, they can very easily take over the marketplace of 3d printers.
Did You had that problem with ringing only on PETG material ? Or also on every material You printed ?
It was on every material I printed.
It appears to be at certain frequency. I am now very invested in their fix as I have a bunch of their stuff in my shopping cart.
@@Titan3DAZ i had the same with esun filament. with extrudr filament its gone
@@dkastra26 I've switched from matterhackers to polymaker then to the bambu filament and it was still there.
@@Titan3DAZ oh that sucks. I have it on a stone plate 5cm height and dont have the Problem no more with the new filament. Sorry
I've had the first x1 for half a year, no problems with it. This week I received another x1, this is the problem, and the support does not respond;(apparently, it is a manufacturing defect and the user cannot do anything
I wonder if it's a belt quality issue? It would be awesome if you could replace the stock belts for some known top of the line GATES timing belts.
As the issue is also orientation based, I don't think changing belts will do have any effect on this.
If you have similar issues, turn the object and you'll see the wiggle transitions to a different straight.
In my scenario the best orientation is rund surfaces to the front or back and straights aligning with the Y-axis.
Wow that ringing effect in the PETG was awful. I’ve never seen that before. I haven’t printed with PETG on the X1C yet. Is it a small subset of users experiencing this, or widespread?
In-between from what I've seen. I seem to have it the worst (at least to my knowledge and documented cases) but mime happens on pla and abs as well.
I am aware that these printers have belt spring tensioning mechanism. However, is there a way to adjust belt tension manually? From my experience, this pattern can be removed completely by increasing tension in the belts (belt teeth on a smooth roller is also not a good design choice, IMO, opinions vary on that). I bet that Bambu would like your printers back so they can study the issue and will not be as accommodating to everyone.
I hope they are
did you try putting the machine on a different surface.....different location etc ?
Yes. I put it directly onto the concrete slab in my garage and strapped it down nice and tight with no solution
I wonder if idle rollers with teeth instead of smooth ones would decrease the artifacts.
my twotrees sp-3 has teeth idlers, also have this kind of artifacts. so not necessary helps.
When I take the speed down, i become lots of ringing, when I take the speed up the ringing go away, what is the problem with the printer?
It doesn't go away no matter what speed I print at. I have tried from 50-300 mm/s
Yeah, speed does reduce the ringing, which goes against everything I ever learned in my years of 3d printing, This is a whole different kind of machine also. My question to you, what do you do if you want that glossy surface since fast = matte surface? I've tried increasing the temp but that didn't help.
@@PaDawg reduce fan Speed
@@3dFuzzie Really!!! I'll give that a try. Like how much?
Out of curiosity, if you were mainly printing ornaments, why would be using PETG? PLA and PLA+ would be just as good for that use case.
I print loads of other things for customers. I primarily use PETG so that if people here in AZ leave things in their car they don't melt.
Gotcha! Mesa, AZ here, so I get that. I only print in pla but mainly sell fidgets. I just say “they are pretty durable, just don’t leave them in a hot car lol”
@@Titan3DAZ PETG would still get soft in a car and deform. I made some sunglasses holders with PETG and they deformed and were unable to hold my sunglasses.
Maybe ABS would do better for those high heat situations?
@@Dashitishere22 It depends on part geometry too. You can't expect a long straw of ABS / ASA to not sag in the heat of summer either.
Good review, the facts, and top it off with really great service considering their response in the end when a resolution wasn’t found. Re bugs? Yes you do. I’ve over 30 years in Enterprise IT and you can walk into large companies, and ask yourself, “Why are they still using Windows 7? Windows 10? When you ride the bleeding edge you get cut. Staying just far enough back from the edge allows you to take the time needed to tune your software and your processes while others do the beta testing for the new release (of WHATEVER). Again, great review. I believe Bambu will get it right. So many great features, etc…. but? It’s going to take a little time. Kudos to those also, riding the edge, providing feedback, learning the ins/outs. It takes all kinds to build a village.
Thanks for pointing thisnissue out, my question is: how significant are the drawbacks of printing faster as per their suggestion? Is it really a no go or you were just peaky in terms of finish product?
Well going faster didn't change the issue for me. My 2 machines continued to have that issue all the way to 500mm/s (which is the fastest I tested). Also, petg really doesn't like printing all that fast so it loses its interlayer adhesion.
@@Titan3DAZ can you print hotter to fix this?
@@mycinemax2653 nope. Temp changes didn't affect my outcome
On other corexy machines this pattern appears when the belts are too tight. Did you try loosening the belts?
Yes.
you said you might go another route? which route? ive been researching and cant see anything good. anything comparable is 5k or leased for 20k.
Nothing is great at the same price range, but to get more and go to an industrial is what I am thinking. I really like the Pantheon HS3
did you run both printers at once on the same table? that would kindof explain artifacts impossible to eliminate... since each printer would send vibrations into each others assembly.
At first yes, but then I separated them, put on on the floor, the other on the floor, added more weight to them, put them on a paver and a rubber mat to isolate the vibrations, and stepped one to some anchors in the foundation for my home and nothing changed the pattern.
have you tested the same object at 200mm/s like they advise?
Sure did. I've testes from 50mm/s to 300mm/s with no success as well as adjusting accel from 500 all the way up to 10k.
@@Titan3DAZ hummm ... that desapointe my , I canceled my preorder Prusa XL for Order a Bamboo .... Hope your wrong
@Did3D this is just my experience with 2 bamboos. I'm sure yours will be fine
What type of files were you printing with the unit when you were getting the ringing? Did you try a STP file?
STL, 3MF, and STEP
Have you tried this on the floor rather than on a table, just in case the table is causing oscillation (just to rule it out if nothing else).
I did. I even strapped it down to my foundation in the back yard
@@Titan3DAZ I've watched quite a few of these different Bamboo Labs user videos. It seems like 90% of people are amazed by them, and about 10% or people have had to return them. It's a very exacting machine. With that speed the slightest issue really shows. You might be better off getting an exchange like others have done.
Is there a chance that you placed two printers together on same surface so they mess with each other? Or the surface itself is wobbly?
No, I did tests with them where I placed 1 machine at a time on the ground and still got that issue.
It looks like you're using the lidar pre print sequence and the textured pei print surface, the product page for the textured print surface says it will cause issues. Did you try running with smooth bed or without lidar?
Yes to both of those and no it didn't help sadly.
@@Titan3DAZ sad, thank you for this review, I'm getting close to buying a new machine; hoping to see some reviews of the Prusa XL before pulling the trigger on anything...
did you try manually adjust, head of people with issues, and they had to manually just flow rate etc, and turned off the flow calibration, not saying it will fix it but it's an idea.
The flow rate did not affect my prints unfortunately.
Is this been solved yet 2024-Sep ? No? What about Adventurer 5M Pro ir Qidi Q1 Pro?
I honestly do not know. I don't have a Bambu anymore. I can say that I have an adventurer 5m pro, and that printer has out-performed my X-1c in every way, I have a video review if you'd like. This issue is not present on the A5M Pro. Though, there is a tiny bit of VFA on the A5M Pro. I don't know about the qidi printer. I haven't yet gotten one of those in to review. If I do, I will make a video about it and share my experiences.
@@Titan3DAZ Great compare please the q1 pro and adventurer 5M pro. Compare with ABS, ASA, Nylon the stuff that is useful not PLA. Thank you. Looking forward to video
@juliusvalentinas I will reach out to qidi to see what they're willing to do.
I'm returning mine. The left linear rod is showing wear/chatter marks in the chrome finish on the bottom side. Most likely the gantry is out of alignment, or the bearing is not rotated the correct x orientation to the bed so its only rolling on 1 row of ball brearings during movements. They have some serious quality control issues that is going to sink their company if they dont get it under control very quickly.
What do you sugest instead? Qidi ?
I bet that a toothed idler bearing, rotating around ball bearings would solve this issue. More defined travel paths (toothed) would limit the addition of frequencies (while printing) that the machine can't account for. I bet that you could even 3D print a simple fix and have no more issues.
I couldn't get my idlers on the x carriage out.
@@Titan3DAZ bummer. The manufacturer will have to fix it. I'll send them an email
@@evandaniels450 Thank you. I suggested that to them and they never responded on that point. If more of us can comment on it then maybe they'll fix it.
This is what I was going to say as well. Then the other guy said you can't remove them. I wonder if it's possible to 3D print a toothed wraparound sleeve. Even though we shouldn't have to do any of this.
@Keyboard Warrior that's a cool idea! I wonder how er could put it on though?
Well that’s a shame. Mine has been churning out beautiful prints for weeks…better than my Prusas even. So much so I ordered a second one. Hope I don’t have this issue.
So you’re not experiencing any ghosting or VFA issues at all? Surfaces are nice and smooth?
@@sprkplgi highly doubt that. What learned on my journey through the Bambu Lab VFA-Land ... Most people give a fuck and don't even understand the difference between shining soft light from the front or at a steep angle to make the defects visible
Most are vaccinated and educated what did you expect?
Is a "wavy patern" a problem for printing toys? :) just saying ..
I don't print toys. I print parts which require a dimensional accuracy that this pattern throws off.
Hi,
I own a X1 carbon since 6 weeks now and was also at the beginning very enthusiastic until this ringing issue appeared. I did follow all recommendation from the Wiki without success until the nozzle got clogged. Despite unclogging and several cold pull the problem was still there until I decided to exchange the nozzle itself and now it prints as new. In the meantime, some clogging did appeared again but the cold pull procedure was good enough to get it right. By the way the clogging for me appears when running out of filament and inserting a new one to continue a print.
After sending back the printers to Bambu lab did you go a feedback from them about the root cause and possible fixes or they just refund you?
Just a refund. No explanation or help of any kind unfortunately.
@@Titan3DAZ OK not so good but hopefully I found that the problems is mainy due to the nozzle aging rapidely and getting clogged in such a way thta unclogging is not easy or not possible
@@Titan3DAZ There's probably no reason to contact you after you got your refund, and they received the returns. You might want to reach out to them to ask if they can share any updates on their findings.
You probably got lucky. I just replaced the nozzle and extruder on my P1S to hardened steel, and the issue still persists.
What if you used a toothed pully so the teeth line up with the belt?
I wanted to try this, but Bambu (at least in my 2 early units) had them seated with a pin that was pushed into place with no way to get it out without voiding my warranty.
@@Titan3DAZ you might want to throw that out there to others in case someone else tried it or is willing to...
@@legendarydave333 has been mentioned a lot in the comments
Thanks for this informative video, I'll keep an eye out for this issue with my X1C.
Upfront a solution that might help some people: Try exporting your files as STEP-files and not 3MF or STL. That can make (and did a huge difference for me) *on some prints.
My P1S is from beginning of 2024 and I'm having the same issue and did everything the wicki suggested and more. No fix!
Their answer: Run a VFA test and just avoid printing at speeds that cause problems. Meaning: They have not fixed anything.
*Although I mentioned that changing to STEP files made a huge difference, the problem remains on many prints, clearly showing that its the resonance-test that's not providing the necessary input to the machine, or the machine does not adapt accordingly. I'm pretty pissed to say the least!
Sad to see that it still isn't fixed. Customer built machines are far better still.
@@Titan3DAZ I totally agree. I miss Klipper and the ease of just changing what ever's necessary. I'll probably use my P1S to eventually build a Voron. That wasn't the plan, but hey.. now I have a reason to do so :P
I appreciate you making this issue known, and that Bambu has responded quickly and offering a return. Hopefully this is something that can be addressed.
My experience has been that they don't offer a return quickly or easily. They are more than happy to waste your time and money fixing their products. I'm thoroughly convinced that they only people they respond well to are social media influencers.
Did you ever try to print it in ASA instead of PETG since it has a 37.5% higher MVS? Or did you try increasing the nozzle temp + flow so you could have higher mm/s(even though this could give some stringing) and preheat the chamber as much as possible?
I tried several materials as well as flow rates/temps
@@Titan3DAZ You shouldn't have had an issue with ASA with higher speeds since the higher MVS would allow for compensating for it and help avoid the resonance issues. The folks at Bambu Lab *SHOULD* have suggested it, but oh well maybe they end up solving the resonance issues by adding harmonic balancers to them in the future (granted that means they'd have reduced top speed of the printer possibly from the added weight and thus increased inertia).
@Mainfold I had issues at every speed from 50mm/s to 300mm/s at 50mm/s increments. I then went back and changed the accelerations from 500 to 5000mm/s^2 also in 50mm/s increments. No material, no speed, no accelerations combination worked. I spent 2 full weeks doing this test with no change in print quality. All I could see what that the teeth on the belts would vibrate on the smooth idlers whenever it was moving. When I moved it by hand, I was able to feel each belt tooth move on and off the idler. This indicates to me that there is a discrepancy in the belt path distance. Like when all the teeth are on the idler, the belt is in full tension, but if you move 2mm then one tooth falls off the idler without another one making full contact so the belt is now looser and no longer in full tension. That be my only bit of information I have as to why my 2 machines did this
i have a p1p i hope i don't get this problem too. i seen your facebook post too i recall the ringing i thought you fixed it i guess not but did going faster fix that issue when you tried a test print in pla or petg?.
For me, no. The speed didn't change it. However, using carbon filled or matter filament made it less visibly noticeable.
I always avoid the first gen. Wait til like 2nd or 3rd gen when they fix the issues or improve on them.
They do updates on the printer when people find problems
Of course, it's a good thing that not everyone takes this advise, because if they did, there would be no 2nd and 3rd gen.
This is really really weird. I've been working with two X1Cs that printed hundreds of hrs and never see this kind of issue. Where can I find the facebook group post for more information?
Linked in the description😉
@@Titan3DAZ Thx
Check the bambu discord, several people have this problem unfortunately.
@@sprkplg hi, could you explain what people are having problem with? I have problem with PETG myself :(
Thank you for making a video about this. I have two X1, one of them has the same "wavy wall" VFA problem, one still has it but very minor in appearance. On the problematic printer, the belts sure feel well-tensioned, and the defect happens on 1/4 of print, most visible on the outside wall. It's not just PETG, PLA also has this problem. I have been looking for a solution for weeks but other than print faster, which really only softens the effect, there's no way to solve it. My Prusas don't have such problem and were well-calibrated from factory.
Yeah, we ended up going with sending the printers back and getting a refund. It was a 6 week process for me, not sure if it still is or not.
@@Titan3DAZ I decided to retension the belts again, it just slightly changed the profile of the wave, not improved. Cleaning the carbon rod on the other hand does seem to lessen the effect a bit. Not sure what the wiped off black stuff are as I don't print ABS nor ASA. Just leaving it here so people can at least try rod cleaning.
Thanks for documenting this.
i bought a bambu p1s a week ago. yesterday i noticed that my prints have really strong ringing in the x achse.
ohh my god, at this point i regret it that i bought a bambulab printer.
I am sorry to hear that! I am sad Bambu has yet to fix this issue, even after such a long time.
I appreciate that you actually took the time to try and troubleshoot it before saying this is a lost cause. That said, this is a pitfall of getting a bleeding edge machine vs one that has been around. Hopefully they can find/fix the issue!
you know it isnt bleeding edge, right? Bambu just packaged work done in the DIY space. This is a solved problem in the high end diy space; its just that bambu would have to redo their motion system completely to fix it, or at the very least, design in more manual adjustment. the walled garden nature of the company means that a fix is unlikely to come from the community.
@@jeremyglover5541 show me a DIY printer with all the features the X1C has then, including the lidar and AMS, it should also work as well as the AMS, not some buggy attempt that fails frequently.
Bleeding edge doesn’t have to mean everything about the printer is brand new and innovative, never before seen, just that it overall is new and is more advanced than others which the X1C and even P1P managed to do that.
TBH i am surprised support did anything for you. My experience so far with this support has been abysmal. No matter how hard I try too explain on going issues with reliability, and accuracy. They don't seem to understand. I agree the software experience has been good. But I have spent more time with my x1c down, having to fix stuff on it than I have using a this point. Which just garbage. Though i am thankful at this date, the machine has now failed so hard that it will now longer allow any printing, which i hope results in replacement.
Best of luck. I'm certain I was treated this way because of this video. It was brought up during my time communicating with support and they were not happy I made this video...
What happened with it?
ive had artifacts like this on my voron, and for me what solved it was adjusting my belt tension (ended up I needed to loosen a bit) but at a specific belt tension it completely went away and I have not had issues since
Interesting. I can't really loosen the belts on the bambu, they have the auto tensioner system.
@@Titan3DAZ they seem to have a lot of random things that supposedly help but can cause more problems
@@Titan3DAZ Just received my new x1c combo last week and so far, knock on wood, I'm not seeing this issue. But I'm wondering if by any chance if you know whether or not if the spring tension is adjustable on the auto tensioner system? My guess is that it's now and the spring constant varies ever so slightly between different machines or certain production runs of machines to cause these chattering problems on some and not others. My WAG (wild ass guess) is there's a quality control issue with whoever supplies their springs. Bottom line: Wasn't me. Didn't do it.
I had a similar experience, the very first print I did on my X1 of my own design features a flat wall similar to your problem print, and the pattern was immediately obvious. I've seen this on flat walls from every printer I've ever had so I wasn't too surprised, except I must admit I was hoping the uber designers at Bambu had fixed this problem. I agree with those who say it's related to the 'teeth' on the belts, this would explain why the artifacts are always the same distance from each other regardless of print speed, and their distance apart does seem consistent with the teeth separation on the belts, although I haven't measured. And yes, it appears regardless of whether the long wall is oriented along the x or y axis. I have tested various orientations myself and I find the best way to mitigate this issue is by orienting so the long walls are at 45 degrees along the x/y plane, this seems to cancel out the patterns from either belt the best, but it's not perfect. Like I said, I have this problem with all of my printers (my main use case involves a piece with flat walls) and so my disappointment with Bambu is merely that they haven't solved _every_ issue related to 3d printing, only most of them. The only printers I've heard of that don't seem to have this problem are all too small for my uses. Really I think the reason this pattern seems so obvious to me now is because the print quality from my Bambu is so superior to anything else, the defects that do remain are more eye-grabbing as a result. In other words, vertical patterns like this are a lot easier to notice now that my Bambu has eliminated all the banding and ringing I was accustomed to seeing on my prints.
Sure. Cool story. My x1c doing that and my crappie creality don't. So yeah all printers do that 😂
Voron and Hevort seem to have excellent surface quality.
I have to ask about you say that your printer never had a sweat spot. You also said that the quality of your print were good at first but soon diminished. You also say that your problem is on both the X axis & the Y axis of both your printers. I have some questions regarding the environment of your small print farm. 1. What filament are you using. If it’s a quality filament or cheap lesser know brands can have a major effect on print quality? 2. With the prints good at first, how were you storing your filament and how did you insure the filament was dry? What humidity is the filament stored in? Now these next 2 questions are the big ones for me & was a major issue for my X1 Carbon, 3. how is your printer mounted? Is it just sitting on a desk do you have something underneath it like a slate or something to absorb the vibration or limit the movement of whatever it sits on? Finally 4. Do you run both machines at the same time and sitting on the same surface as the vibrations coming from other machines can greatly affect the quality of the machines? I respect that you most likely have done everything correctly but as you are an engineer may I suggest that you look at building your own as it will greatly improve your understanding of the realities of 3D printing, maybe something like a VzBot. I only suggest this as I think if you think that you are going to find a better off the shelf product that has similar customer support as Bambu Labs than I believe that you will only be even more disappointed & disillusioned than you already are. I do however wish you the best of luck, cheers Madz.
1. I used polymaker and matterhackers pro series primarily. 2. My filaments have been stored in a sealed box and run from heaters/dryers. 3. They're on an industrial shelf that's really heavy duty and yes on a paver with a rubber isolation mat. 4. Running them one at a time never changed the output. I have spent 6 years running printers so I was very hesitant on these machines to begin with. They did promise a lot, but I think it's a QC issue overall since others aren't having this issue. I'm certainly down to build another machine like a vzbot or a ratrig/voron. I'm disappointed in these machines primarily because they promised a lot and others I've seen work so well while mine don't.
@@Titan3DAZ Fair enough, I just thought something that I suggested might have helped, especially the residence vibration with multiple printers, I know I had a similar issue with ringing on large prints and as soon as I calibrated with no other printers running and ran it on its own it was so much better. I checked out a couple of your other videos & I have to say that the TPU Benchy that was printed on your X1 Carbon looks like one of the best Benchy's that I've ever seen printed. it must be frustrating to have such an intermittent fault. I hope you find the printer that you are looking for, Cheers.
@Brett Madigan thank you! Yeah I'm really happy with that benchy. And that's just it with these machines, I've gotten some stellar prints off them only to have them crap out on both machines and then not go back to working... I'm currently looking at raise3d and fusion3d printers (for off the shelf ready to go machines). If I'm to build one, I'm torn between a vzbot and the hevort printers.
Have you tried placing the printers on the floor? If you are printing them on that rack, I would guess that is your actual problem.
Yes I have. The image was from a floor print. It has been an interesting experience seeing it be unchanging.
what printer are you using now
I am not currently. Got super busy with work and school.
I see you gave up returned them already but did you try turning Z hop off. it could be leadscrew error causing that pattern. Not just bambus can exhibit this defect. it can even be extruder issues as well.
Yes. It didn't help. It did make small quick moves quieter though.
1 year later, same problem on my P1S that is 3 months old. They didn't do sht about it.
I'm sorry to hear that. I'm hoping the V2 will be better!
Thanks for doing such a thorough review. Nice to see objectivity instead of fanboys.
Will be interested to see what you choose as your next solution and what/if any compromises will be made..
Looking at markforged currently
It's a little late to see this video, I don't know if your problem has been solved? Have you tried to disassemble the side panel of the case and observe the operation status of the motion system in operation?
There is one thing to pay attention to: the rib of the belt drive wheel installed on the stepper motor may interfere with the rack on the belt due to assembly problems or belt deformation. Note that it is the rib on the drive wheel! This interference causes the rack to repeatedly bite into and slide off the ribs, which induces vibrations in the belt which, if the speed is right, are amplified. This can explain to some extent why the stripe spacing is about 2mm. If it's the two smooth idlers on the X-axis, it should be a similar problem on all printers, but the fact that it's not all machines suggests that the problem is specific to this machine.
Just posted my print with PETG on you printable link. The vertical lines are really there! Only if you print with shiny PETG and play with the light carefully to review it. I don't think it's PETG thing but the reflection review the artifact more clearly.
I am also suffering exactly the same on the X-Axis. Having done so many test prints and sent so many photos it has been going on for over a month and a half with very limited support, in fact i would say my support has been flow diagram at best blaming everything but the kitchen sink and of course the printer!!!!! I love this printer but cannot accept the answers BL provide which make me feel isolated when it is obvious there are many other suffering the same issue. The fact that so many users are reporting perfect prints out of the box seems to indicate the reasons being given as the cause ie speeds etc cannot be true or they would all suffer from it. I have approached BL regarding a refund or replacement but as yet have not heard anything. Ca you tell us who you dealt with for this as i am sure there is a lot more of us out there!!!! Cheers
I don't have a name attached to my support ticket. It just says bambu support team... I'm sorry to hear your machine is behaving this way, yet relieved that there are more people out there with this. I did send my machine back, but that had some complications in it as well. I have another short video updating on that process. I am currently waiting for them to receive my machines and then refund me.
@@Titan3DAZ Good luck with that mate, how did you manage to convince them to take the machine back? I have not had one word from BL in answer to my request for a replacement or refund!!!! Been a couple of weeks now!!!!
@subseauk that's a bummer to hear and I'm sorry. I'm at this point almost certain it's because of how popular my Facebook post is and how popular this video is. I sent both to them in the support ticket as a form of documentation and I hear almost everyone who asks for a replacement is being told no so I think it's the publicity maybe? Not sure.
Ive had the same issue, just way less noticeable. I found that the belt was positioned weirdly on the stepper motor. I repositioned it to the middle.
Im not sure if that did the trick or the retention procedure
I had my X1C for a couple weeks and non-stop printing different brand of PLA and silk PLA filement, never have an issue. Did the defects happen to both of your X1C machine?
Yes
I have a kickstarter machine that’s been running flawlessly
I'm wondering if it's just a QC issue or that some of the parts in mine aren't to the same spec as yours.
@@Titan3DAZ I’d wager those 2 machines are being looked at to determine the issue. It seems to me it indeed is some kind of QC issue, weather or not it’s hardware or a board such as vibration compensation not properly working.
I’d like to think that perhaps the smooth idler will be updated in future machines. My next wonder is how many hours of printing at those speeds the belts can actually withstand.
My AM6 Aluminum Anet A6 has those issues weeded out, by tighter belt, additional pulley next to Y motor, and using M4 screw and flat coil springs for bed. Higher speed deceleration on beds and print heads caused those artifacts. Bamboo doesn't having Y bed issues, but still a lot of mass on Y axis
Thank you. AS tempting as fast printing is, I have always done what you adapted in doing. Do due diligence, allow time to lapse and buy when there a certainty the machines are going to perform. And the best part, on videos like this, you also learn more about other machines not presented in the video in the comments section.
My X1 C has the same problem. Not happy at all. Purchased a few weeks ago.
Did you find any solution ?
How long since you bought this machine before it shows this problem? Mine is the problem about the machine unable to see any WiFi networks out of sudden after updating the firmware. It was working perfectly before. Still working with the bambu team very slowly though. Glad you got refunded and treated you fairly. Hope it will be like this for every one.
The other printer I heard similar to bambu was Flsun V400. You may want to look it up.
Only a week or so. I was doing 24/7 printing on them though. Also, not noted here, but it wasn't for another 3 weeks after this video that I got a refund..
I am confused. You say the problem has been traced down to the smooth return pulleys. So why not just replace those with toothed return pulleys?
And if 120mm/sec is the worst speed for resonance issues, why not change the speed down to let say 80mm/sec??
That would also improve the print quality you are keen to achieve.
I did change the speeds from 50mm/s to 300mm/s and there was no change.
@@Titan3DAZ, I can see the issue on my prints too but not only other CoreXY printer.
I save the file now with the highest possible resolution in Inventor and it made a big difference.
@@misterbean29 I used a step file than that didn't help on mine.
Thanks for the vid. This is why I'll be going another direction, leaning K1, because of the gsensor and the fact creality has been around a long time.
Did you get K1 are there artefacts?
@@sabotage3d I'm preordered for a max, eta 8/28 :( Otherwise from what I've seen, the OOBE does not have artifacts, though it seems the majority of folks are removing their bowden tube from the chain, which causes other issues, so this could be the source of some artifacting I've seen.
I religiously print PETG with my X1C.
People had the same issue with making circles from Tinkercad and making a circle from Onshape, Solidworks, and Fusion 360.
Tinkercad was significantly worse. I have made some prints on my old printer with the ringing not being visible, and parts that's didn't go flush together in tinkercad were seamless when printed.Bambu caught every single ripple and defect with that model.
At first I felt bad on my old printer because my prints could never look good because I could never get the right settings. Now I feel bad because I use tinkercad all these years and all my designs look like garbage because everything in tinkercad is made with a triangles for the geometry and has an edge every millimeter. Using Onshape for a few months now for this, never looked back.
Yeah that’s because the exported files are mesh-files and in 99% of all printers the movement is also all lines not circles (polygon). The resolution of you files makes a huge impact on how round your holes get. But also if the resolution is too high it‘ll make your prints look bad because you’re printer might not be able to handle that much commands that fast. As always it‘s a clean in between🙂🤙🏼
P.S. i work with solidworks professionaly and ran into the same issues but could max. it out with the export settings and how much the printers could handle:)
Different issue buddy. That's a low resolution model. This is Vertical Fine Artifacts. Look it up.
Hi are the same problems present on P1P?
I don't know. I don't have a p1p
@@Titan3DAZ Which printer do you recommend to get now?
@@sabotage3d not sure yet. I'm looking into tons, even stratasys at this point.
@@Titan3DAZ What did you get in the end?
@@sabotage3d haven't gotten another machine. I got a new job and have been immensely busy with that and school. I'm definitely looking into the pantheon HS3 though.
It is strange that some people do experience this and some dont, but also means it can be addressed be that with a firmware update or some sort of damping.
It cannot, it's a closed printer which we have no access to its input shaping to fix the ringing problem. There's no firmware or software capable of fixing this problem.
My unit was among the problematic ones and just got it picked up today. Some takes weeks or months to show up the problem.
what do you buy now?
Not so sure. I'm doing a lot of research on the topic and have emails out to quite a few companies.
I've read all of this including all the comments and it looks like this boils down to belts not going over a toothed idler. I started playing on a laser cut wooden Makerbot years ago and have built a few delta printers of my own design. I currently have a shopping cart filled with an X1C and just about every option and filament. I have about 30 prints identified to get me started and a few projects I want to try but slammed into this discussion and now everything is on hold. I've gone through the whole Bambu Wiki and I think I'm seeing all belt idlers/tensioners smooth with the smooth side of the belt in contact. Are there other smooth idlers not shown in the path on the toothed side of the belt that can't be seen or serviced??? Will the teeth being on the opposite side of a belt telegraph through to the smooth side and the idler at these speeds? I want to just make things in my retirement without having to debug a wonky printer every print - am I asking too much??? I so wanted this to work.
I also wanted it to work like you do. I had lots of orders to do. Not that I'm aware of, they're all smooth idlers with the exception of the 2 that mount to the motors and provide the power motion to begin with.
Is it possible that the belt thickness/seams are not uniform so that the smooth side of the belt is not as smooth as one would like???
@@ProspectiveBuyer-ji3qx possible. I no longer have the machines to test that though
@@Titan3DAZ I'd hate to think that someone bought toothed wheels or idlers that aren't round to save 10 cents a unit
@@ProspectiveBuyer-ji3qx seems like that's what they did. They're press fit into the carriage too, so not an easy fix.
My machine has the same defect, support could not help other than say i have to print faster, which didnt solve the bad printing quality. i didnt get offered a refund and im stuck now with bad printing quality for a mid rage price. im very disappointed with bambulab.
I'm sorry to hear that. I am honestly thinking that they offered me a refund because of this video. They made several comments about this video in the support chat.
I wonder it can fixable by tighten the belts.
This is exactly why closed source is a really bad buy. If this was open Source printer like the Voron, you would of been able to fix the issue with lots of help from the community and keep your business running. This is the only thing stopping me from buying Bambu, closed source is a deal breaker. When I need to fix my machines to get orders out I cannot rely on waiting weeks or months from a company to fix it.
I still really love the Bambu as a whole and in general. I think they've done a decent job at bridging that gap of being able to provide the proprietary improvements while sill making it possible for people to upgrade/change their machines. Not by a whole lot, but it's better than say a Markforged where you can't even set print speed. I do think something more like the Pantheon HS3 is a way better option. Yeah I know it's $14k, but it is truly a beast and capable of printing that fast without input shaper making it more accurate overall.
Interesting!!! According to your bambu labs response they have changed their stance on this artifact. If you were on the fb group it may have been my post you saw.
I believe it was your post. What do you mean they changed their stance on the artifact? Did they not acknowledge it before?
@@Titan3DAZ they have always stuck with the resonance frequency response. Never heard them acknowledge the smooth/ tooth idler theory. So I was very interested in seeing your response you were given.
@Ricky Wong I see. Well that's the screenshot from them so I'd hope that's the story now
Since the issue showed up later do you think it can be related to carbon fiber dust buildup on the rods? It might cause enough friction to induce a pattern
No. Only because I cleaned those repeatedly.
I didnt believe you and I bought one. And yup sure enough I get the same ripple issues that you get except Im printing at standard speeds. The print quality over all is pretty bad. The issue is that for any print move that is not full speed it seems like the vibration compensation just doesnt work.
I'm sorry to hear that. It seems to be just a QC issue imo, bad parts I think
yeah, I also belived the hype and bought one of these. the quality on my ender s1 plus is much better and I do not use the bambu. does not matter what speed u print with. I will build a box for my ender and let this bambu gather dust.
🎉 I had the same problem with silk PLA. I have a solution: Outer Wall Speed 40mm, Acceleration Normal printing: 5000, Outer Wall 3000. infill: 50-100% (don’t forget, that the infill also creates waves on the outer wall)
Additional info: Bambu cannot compensate resonances at around 100mm. With 200mm i have no resonances anymore but silk PLA is not silky, it needs more time like PETG
I'm glad that worked for you. I did tests ranging from 50mm/s to 300mm/s with no change. This pattern showed up at all speeds and all accelerations.
Did you try any other filament besides PTG?
Yes, pla, petg, abs, tpu, nylon
Thamk you for the video. I think the V400 could be a good printer, if it get's modified to make use off all klipper features and gets tuned correctly. But I don't know how hard it is, and I also do not know if it woul'd get issues if you would encase it with walls. It is very different from the bamboo, maybe the new prusa printer XL would be to your liking?
If it's a resonance issue you might be able to dampen the effect by placing the device on a different surface, such as a silicon mat of a particular thickness, or some kind of cloth, or maybe even some kind of brace, or a flying buttress so that it ends up looking like a cathedral! 🤔
I put it on the floor of my office. I also placed one outside strapped down to the foundation but that did not fix the issue.
@@Titan3DAZ I understand the theory of harmonics but I wouldn't know enough to recommend anything. My procedure would be to try different things and see if that helped, since different materials will have their own frequency range. The first impulse is to "lock it down" but the proper approach is to cancel the resonance with an out of phase harmonic. This is the whole purpose behind the command "Route march!" when marching over a bridge. Of course I'm not even sure this is possible without special testing equipment. Maybe you'd need some witchy incantations?
@Demosophist aside from trying to lock it down, I did get the speed all the way down to 50mm/s and only 1k accel which is slower than an ender 3 and thay still produced the pattern.
@@Titan3DAZ The right approach to harmonic resonance is to "knock it"... destructively. But at 50mm/s you'd need very quick fingers.
@@Demosophist it was very slow printing... my ender prints faster with higher accelerations and does much better
you got refund from bambulab, what printer do you use, not corexy that means cartesian like qidi x cf pro?
Currently working with a flashforge guider 3 ultra. It's corexy and I'm going to put together a review of it in the new year.
@@Titan3DAZ Nice printer but price 6 195,00 € is really too expensive. Any other options with smaller build volume? The qidi is a no go option?
@@akierum I think if you have the money for a qidi, then go for it. They are really great options. I loved the qidis I used before. I do also think the adventurer 5m pro by flashforge is really comparable to the bambu and way cheaper if that is more your route.
@@Titan3DAZ The adventurer 5m pro does not have engineering materials as recommended, so any other options for ~1400Eur
@@akierum engineering materials at that price? I don't know of any. Engineering being nylons and PP and PC, idk any that are designed for that in that price range. Probably a voron, but you'll need to print the parts out of ASA.
Interesting. I had put several rolls of black petg through my x1c before my bed sensor cable and main board had to be replaced, and did not see this artifact. I suspect since you got these machines at the same time, they have the same defect. My was a KS unit, and it had the bed sensor wire issue, which resulted in the main board failing. There are a few issues that have come up with different batches. Some can be addressed by the user, this looks like it can't. Likely an issue with the tensioning system that can't be user serviced, at least not in a way where it can actually mitigate the issue.
I have a blv cube core xy printer and looking at the bambu's studio speed setting I try to see just as a test if I could match it , But at 100mm/s I was suffering with lots of ringing , but found that speeding it up to 300mm/s made a cleaner less ringing than printing slower .
So printing faster cuts down ringing which was news to me , because faster should mean more mass and ringing on direction changes .
Resonance.
I’ve been printing simple triangles on my Sovol SV05. It’s a new printer, has bed leveling issues (I’m getting there but it doesn’t seem to stick….) and of course is a much cheaper printer. Given the Z only moves down, I’ve found I can increase the print speed via tune, by over a 100% and the quality is insane. This is with the “rough” Cura profile and yet, the resolution of the print is absolutely incredible.
It called VFA. It need something to do with stepper motor resonance speed. Low quality motor have same issues. Even high price.
For cosmetic parts try using orca slicer and pick inner->outer->inner for the wall order and click precise wall.
This will help a lot.
Thank you for the option. However this isn't about cosmetics. It's a physical deviation in the wall of the part. The peaks and valleys have a 1mm variation. This was a belt related issue.
1mm spacing... as I said do the above. Night and day for me. Any belted printer gets these issues especially coreXY machines. The problem with X1C is the gantry is very light so it doesnt absorb as many vibrations. It would be nice to see a mod with stainless rods instead of carbon fibre tubes and toothed idlers.
That said even with all that using the above settings my X1C prints better than my Vorons. @@Titan3DAZ
OMG I just ordered my machine.
Good luck. Seems to be hit or miss on qc
Well?
If the wavy pattern is the problem why not just sanding it to make it smoother? I may not understand the issue completely though. You may also be able to account for this in the print settings by playing with them a bit.
Sanding removes the desired surface finish, plus with the amount required I lose the dimensional accuracy that's needed on these parts.
@@Titan3DAZ ah, understood then
Thanks for information! You made me second think buy one. Have you change your mind
I'd consider buying them again when v2 comes out. I think they've really got a lot going for them, but with 2 of my units being bad, I'm hesitant to get an x1 again
@@Titan3DAZ thanks!
Interesting. I’ve been thinking of getting a carbon and therefore watch almost every review and use of this machine. I’ve not seen this problem mentioned, and when looking at the parts produced, haven’t seen it either. I wonder if it’s a batch production problem that isn’t happening with most machines, but you’re were made in the same batch and so both have it. Bamboo has been very good about fixing problems, so,this one may have been solved already.
Not to my knowledge it hasn't been solved, but I'm hopeful
@@Titan3DAZ have you been following what others have been saying and doing? I’m just not seeing this problem mentioned. I just watched a guy who uses four or five Bamboo in his business, and he didn’t mention it either. It seems as though this might have been a problem from a specific batch of machines. The new ones a different from yours, as changes have been rapid.
@@melgross I have done everything I can think of and everything their support could think of.
@@Titan3DAZ I believe you. You don’t have them anymore though, correct? And this was several months ago?
@@melgross yes and yes. However my coworker has one currently with the same issue
Well, my printer has non of those problems..want to know what you think is a better printer for the same kind of money, cause I am pretty sure you won't get anything better
The flashforge adventurer 5m pro is cheaper and has a better nozzle setup imo. Though, no ams
Sad when machines don’t deliver what is promised
Try getting PETG+
I ran my P1P with Inland PETG+ at ludicrous speed and the ringing is not prevalent
у меня начала появляться ошибка HMS_0300_1000_0002_0001 и я ничего с ней сделать не могу.(((
I too am curious if you just had this issue with petg? I may not agree with your choice but I am glad they took good care of you. Says a lot about the company.
As far as other comparable printers, I honestly believe your best bet would be to build a Voron or RatRig. For prebuilt printers, the Bambu printers won’t be beat. Not currently anyways.
It's happening on all of my materials
To me it would seem a belt with slanted or diamond chevron teeth would fix this issue.
These are the kind of videos I’ve been waiting for, videos that show a potential issue with these printers.
But to be fair these printers are ambitious. What I find most interesting is it’s not all printers that do this leading me to a possible quality control issue.
I’m not sure this will matter to some people, for instance I rarely need to print a part raw, as nearly all my parts have extensive post processing and finish. The only thing that matters to me is good layer adhesion and speed. Surface finish or ringing is fairly minor for most of my pieces though those parts looked pretty wavy.
Seems like there is a fair mix of people rooting for this machine to fail (which to me is silly since if it succeeds the other manufacturers have to up their game to remain relevant) vs those hoping for a fix or not having issues.
I think this company and the products they offer will improve with time. I’ve held off to see what happens with more of them in the hands of the general public. I’ve heard more good then anything. I’ve been impressed with some of the parts I’ve seen produced on the machines from local people that have them. I’ll likely make a purchase for an x1c in a month or so. If that goes well I may yet purchase a p1p this year as well. We’ve been reconfiguring our shop to accommodate more printers and already plan on at least 2 Bambu lab printers and at least 2 Flsun super racers as well as more traditional ender3 or equivalent printers. We’ve even added a huge post processing station for multiple resin printers and upgraded the space for our existing resin printers. Not sure what the plan is yet on those but looks like there is room for a lot of them.
It amazes me how much more is being produced via 3D printing every year. I guess the idea that one day if you want something you can likely print it instead of going to a store to buy it gets closer every day but printer Ks have to improve before that ever happens.
I am glad that you sent them back. if you want to start a 3d business, just throw together a piece of junk and call it a 3d printer, that's what the 3d company's are doing. the buyer will fix you. i have four and i will never buy another, they belong in the trash and will end up there.
That is explicitly what the bambu has tried to avoid doing, and this is an instance where the over-engineering has backfired.. They actively don't WANT you to have any hand in the calibration or setup of the machine, nor fix it with bootstraps if it goes down. For the rest of the industry I agree, old lazy tech resting on laurels, but this is a garbage take for the x1c.
Voron uses tooth idler wheels for exactly trat reason.
this is the only critical review i have seen of the x1c. hmmmm. i hope it's either user error or something that the software upgrades can fix.
You should see the Facebook group and discord/reddit. This is a relatively common sight, to the point that bambu has acknowledged it as being an issue.
@@Titan3DAZ interesting. gonna follow the fb group and wait to buy until they fix this.
What stirkes me about this video, is how much effort the OP had to put in to get a replacement. The amount of time he had to put in mustve been substantial. Probably coulda bought 3 machines with the time invested. I bought one and have had nothing but problems right out of the box. Due to work schedules, I didn't have the time to mess about with it very much until my 14 day refund and 30 day return had passed. Word to the buyer: If you buy one, make sure you bone up on the return and replacement time periods and use it as much as you can in that period to confirm it works. Also, be prepared to spend lots of time via email on additional data calls. upload your 3mf file and logs AND a video. They will hassle you for a video if you don't send one. Also , you might want to consider taking a video on your phone (so you can capture the screen on the front of the printer as well. you can upload that video easily from thier phone app. Mine literally failed the benchy test right out of the box and I've had nothing but problems. The last thing I wanted to do with a printer was continually tinker with it.. And that's what I've had to do. So instead of print things, I've been spending my available time fixing things. I liteally spent 2.5 hours of my time to get a $35 warranty replacement part. Really frustrating. Oh! and be prepared to do everything via email as well. It takes forever., I was looking forward to this technology and no all I want to do is go all Office Space on it.
Any relief on your issues?
@@memcrew1 So I waited 2 weeks for bambu to send me a new micro lidar, and new TH board and a usb c cable. I wasn't convinced that this latest round was going to solve the problem as I felt like they were just throwing parts at it because they had no clue. After spending 5 hours replacing everything, it still didn't work. At this point, I've replaced every part in the head, except the extruder tip and fan assembly. So I fired it up and it air printed. Aggravated, I tried heating the tip again and manually extruding by pushing some pla through. Nothing. I took the tip off and lo and behold, it was plugged. Thankfully, I had a new one on hand so I replaced the tip, heated the tip to 170 and manually extruded material. Threw the spool back in the AMS, loaded up a benchy and it printed right off. 3 months of Bambu troubleshooting and they missed the first thing that they should have had me check. Thanks for checking back in. I fixed it. Bambu sucks. What a waste of time and money.
@@watermanna Oh wow! Such a simple fix. Glad you solved it.
Sounds like an engineering flaw/mistake to have a idler on a belt like that. Shouldn't they use an idler with teeth?
Great video and thank you so much for this. You've confirmed all my worries about the Bambu. I think I'll be returning mine when it arrives and build a voron instead
Don’t return it. I have 4 -P1p s and 1 -x1 carbon. Along with Prusa MK3s. Creality etc. The slicer for me was a little bit tricky to get used to. the print quality is knight and day better than even my newest MK3s that’s only six months old. I’m not an expert with 3-D printing. I have a good understanding of it and have been doing it for about 6-7 years. These machines are far superior in my opinion to anything else in the market. just a thought.
@@jaylawvlogs264 There's definitely a lot of truth in what you say and I've been pondering it daily. I think for me - as I've said elsewhere - the worry is there's a certain class of problems that the user can't fix which can result in a lot of down time.... Whether that's a mainboard malfunction, or something like ringing where their stance is "we know and we don't have a fix". If you have many, maybe that's less of a worry to you than someone like me as you have a backup.
If the Bambu's work for you - and to be clear there's people like you I've met who have 20 or more of them so it's clear many are happy - then you're good I think. The company is very professional, the products are beautifully designed and much of what you get is years ahead of anyone else. I'm just perhaps a little more nervous than most.
I would wait and see because fortunately there are people who don’t have issues at all, so you may get lucky. Seems it was the earlier batches with the issues as well.
@@sprkplg The X1C channel in the BL discord I think has got to the bottom of this. Admittedly there's quite a few things that are likely cause, but the situation is less mysterious now. For me however this reaffirms my previous thoughts; with a voron if I had these issues I'd order parts to fix it with. With the Bambu... You're at their mercy
@@MrJofArnold yup, that is precisely it. I would always recommend someone build their own machine if in search of perfect quality. You can always trust and rely on yourself better than a company, and much better than a closed system. I’m glad mine is at least printing carbon fiber quickly to my liking but will probably build a Voron if I want to get into ASA and non CF materials where the gloss will show everything.