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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.ย. 2018
- $2 for 10pcs PCBs & $7 for a SMT Stencil at jlcpcb.com/
In this video you will see step-by-step how I installed a set of vibration dampers on my creality CR10 3D printer. They feature two metallic parts and a compliant rubber part in the middle that connects the outer two. This will reduce vibrations coming from the motor, stopping them from passing through the frame.
→Nema 17 Vibration Dampers
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→M3 x 7mm hex screws
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→Bltouch (clone) sensor
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GREAT demo of motor mount install and setup, THANK YOU
Will be interesting to see if they affect print quality.
great demo of motor mounting, I have one question, what is the dimension of the screws?? that holds the motor
Excellent
You can also find those dampers on office copiers. Usually not on the smaller desktop ones, but always on the larger free-standing ones. I work at a for a copier company and I tend to strip the machines we take for trade in because they're loaded with stepper motors. As a result, I have huge quantity of those dampers. I used them on my printers and didn't notice any real change in print quality, but as you said, the reduction in general motor noise is considerable.
I bet those that you recover from the office copiers are of higher quality than the ones I got for cheap from China.
I am the envious one. I only see the bed. I did not see a spade. Great video! ;)
I've found building an enclosure solves a few issues, noise from all parts of the machine, prints lifting from the bed due to drafts and I also put a carbon filter inside with a fan to hopefully clear the air of potential fumes.
I was very confused that you were hearing noises from your BL Touch, until the end where you mentioned that you're using a clone version, because I've never heard any noises like that from my BL Touch at all!
The difference is that the genuine BL Touch uses a plastic probe pin (with a magnet inside the top of the pin to trigger the hall effect sensor and so the solenoid can raise the pin when needed), while the clones use a plastic pin as that's probably cheaper to produce. Plastic isn't going to create that metal vibration sound!
Check the pictures on the BL Touch site here: www.antclabs.com/bltouch
Thanks, love also to listen to your romanien fellow vee for some historic lessons. Good combination electronic and political information.
Hi Florin, nice video!
Do you know if the noise can also be reduced by using different stepper drivers?
I think I saw a video where someone really reduced the noise by using some fancy stepper driver boards (I think......... tmc2130 drivers).
Definitely, using the TMC2130 you can reduce the motor noise right from the start. However in my case it would also require replacing the motherboard and that wouldn't be a problem because they are fairly inexpensive but the new one would not fit in the same enclosure with the same cutouts and I don't want to go that route.
@@voltlog
I just saw this video last night that addresses your concerns with fitting/size of the motherboard.
th-cam.com/video/-XUQKQnUNig/w-d-xo.html
The video starts off seeming to be a do-able task for beginners but than quickly becomes overwhelming. Though, the poster's summary at the end seems reassuring.
Maybe something to look into. 😊
You have got to be kidding, we keep doing similar videos lately !
I just finished editing a video for my Ender 3 where I added dampers to the X and Y, I will be publishing mine on Wednesday.
I did spectrum and SPL measurements before and after, and these are shown in my video.
they say great minds think alike :-)
I have a CR touch and i have the same issue. i used a super thin shrinktube to act as a buffer imien is silent now.
I had the same problem. Sounds like you have a loose screw on the blower fan. Unscrew one of them and move it. One of them is probably looser than the rest.
Maybe add a case around it to dampen the sound? Enclosures are pretty important for 3D printing anyways to keep a steady temperature, especially with ABS.
yeah but seems overkill in my case.
They are good foor Z axes where the tension is is compressing the rubber but not voor X and Y axes ,if you get tension on youy belts the will chear of the rubber from the plates deu to the side tension ,won't last a full print. Don't ask how i know.
Mybe they will survive with not a lot tension on the cheap T2 rubberbands ,but on my Synchroflex polyurethane T2.5 timing belts the rubber damping came lose from the metal if you put them on tension ,only the Z dampers survived.
The Z axis moves very little during a print, it doesn't make sense to have such a damper on the Z-axis which doesn't make noise. However if the dampers fail any time soon I'll have to think if I replace them or just ditch the idea.
I put the dampers on my CR-10 Mini on the Y axis about 2 1/2 years back and it worked perfectly even working now 10hrs a day for the last 3 months and never had any problem with the damper or print quality so for standard rubber belt fitted to CR-10 it lasts and is much quieter. Never needed to adjust either.
Nice vid. One *major* drawback of this kind of dampener is that the motor is somewhat "angled", due to the rubbery part, which tends to prevent belts to be correctly tensioned. It's not really ideal. Dampeners made out of 2mm silicone gasket are a better option and allow for proper tensioning.
NB : full-threaded screw length is not measured like this (5:19) : only the threaded part is relevant. That's what M3x8 or M1.5x4 stands for : it does only account for the threaded part.
It sounds almost like the tension nut on is a bit too tight on the X Axis. It sounds like the wheels rubbing too hard on the rail.
I think you may lose fine detail where the head is expected to move back and forth rapidly over a short distance. Maybe you have some test prints to compare it to?
I don't know of a particular test that might stress that but on a regular print I haven't noticed a change.
Not going to be much, those dampers were common on dot matrix printers, which used a lot more aggressive head movement , and they could still do 0.05mm accuracy in dot placement at high speed. Those are bonded rubber, they use a sheet of uncured rubber, and then bond it to the roughened steel using high temperature and pressure in a mould, so it chemically bonds with the steel. That bond is stronger than the rubber itself, the rubber will tear off rather than let go.
To reduce noise get some acoustic panels and make a alcove for the printer, they will damp out a lot of the sound, and as well for the Z axis simply get some high density foam rubber self adhesive sheet ( sold as interior sound damping for cars) and place under the glass. For the others try simply sticking some weatherstrip along the support beams where nothing moves, to damp them vibrating as well. the motor noise is transmitted to all the structure, so damping it as well helps reduce noise.
Thank you for all the info!
I did this but did not notice any difference... Maybe i got cheap dampeners
why not try those silent stepper drivers instead?
I would have to get a new motherboard to fit those drivers which would mean a whole set of new problems and i would be working more to get the printer working than actually printing stuff.
You dont put damper on extrumer motor? why?
it barely moves, barely makes any noise
Im pretty sure that noise is from the cooling fan
in my case, the noise is coming from the bl touch metal pin vibrating inside the plastic case.
Hi thanks for your videos. As an alternative to BLTouch, you could also try IR with projects like github.com/Aus3D/z-probe and github.com/dc42/OrmerodSensorBoard. I think they have decent results even with glass beds. If you have already a ATtiny44, they are very cheap to make.