How to Etch Glass with the xTool D1 10 watt Diode Laser
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Hey! Currently working through your Xtool D1 playlist - I'm waiting for mine to be delivered, 10w with air assist and rotary. Your videos are both informative and incredibly entertaining! Watching from the UK. Here for the rest!
Likewise Josh, mine is coming next week. 🥳
So cool to see the mistake and the fix. Noone is perfect the first time, great to see the learning process!
Right? It's the only way I learn! LOL
Cheers
I have been trying with this method for a while have noticed a few things that yield better results. Notably using a damp paper towel inside the glass and then sealing with tape has helped tremendously. Get it soaking wet, wring it out, stuff it in and you are good to go. Also if the artwork is high resolution, notably 3K+ pixels, turning CPM to 120 and sharpness to ~65% (depending on thickness of glass) yields spectacular results. One thing I have noticed is that thinner glasses tend to flake the etched layer easier than thicker ones, likely due to volume and thermal expansion. The thinnest glasses I have done with these settings have walls of 5mm and, like I have mentioned before, turned out fantastic. The galvanizing spray is must on a 10W laser.
Do you think this technique could work on clear acrylic? Like a square sheet
Hi all, i dont have a D1, but i do have a diy mill/laser cnc, your concept is great, i tryed a few different settings, at first I was disappointed with the results, but as i increased the laser intensity i got some amazing results,
Im using the spaniard cold galvanized spray wich I had from a previous project.
Thanks for the great share..
Sure thing!
Cheers
Thanks for this video man! I’m looking at purchasing an xtool myself and wanted to know how to use glass in projects before I decided to buy one. This helped A TON! Just subscribed.
Sweet. Welcome to the Fray!
I wonder if this will work with my Chinese 50 water?
For all those wondering how / why they are ending up with black marks, black edges or inconsistent engraving using the same settings as our man BDB. The "white" is not actually the end product. Trust me. Take a drill and a wire bristle brush and sand off the white... you are now left with an impeccable finish.
i was just wondering why i have black marks and black edges on my glass. so i just like a brass wire brush and sand it off?
Key piece right here, thanks
I halved the power on my D1 Pro and got exactly the finish as you described. I tried a metal brush and the etching started flaking off completely. Tried ethanol, IPA, magic eraser, and putting them through the dishwasher. Any ideas how to get the frosted look without the black edges or totally black parts of the design?
Who cares how it works. I can come here, find people like you who explain it well enough for me to understand, and then make it happen. Nice work.
What did you laser power and speed end up being? Thanks for the great video
I just ordered a xTool D1 with the rotary attachment and THANK YOU !! for all your help !! SUBSCRIBED !!
Awesome! Thank you.
Bought my wife a laser printer for Christmas! Can’t wait to see what she does with it!!! Thanks for doing this video!
You're welcome, brother!
Cheers
Careful, laser printer is something totally different.
@@3DJapan LoL…. Whooops…. Laser “engraver”
The setting worked amazingly well. What paint thinner did you use to take off the galvanized compound? I am having a hard time removing it
I use lacquer thinner
Noice!! I've got a wedding client I'm working with and your video (plus the cheap test glasses) for the etched look did the trick my man! You rock!😎
Awesome! Thank you!
Looks like stainless steel was the best setting for this when you used it. Does that seem the case for any others you did as a great default? Or did you have to mess with these every time to used a different image?
My D1 should be here this week and I'm currently watching all of your laser videos. Great series. I'm curios why you tape the tops insted of just setting them upside down on some cardboard?
because I'm dumb and just never thought of that. LOL
I've actually started doing that since I made this video.
Cheers
Would you share the settings you ended up using for the final result? We saw what didn't work but not what did work... thanks for taking the time to share your experience!
It's the preset for engraving stainless steel. I believe it's 12 mm/s at 100% power
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild if i have the 20W model should i do this at 50% power?
@@bigtymeplayerx I have the same question!
Not sure what setting to use for the 20w.
Thanks for this, I'm going to try it. Have you etched using any acrylic materials?
Yes
Nice work! I've been etching glass for a couple of weeks now and I tend to have edges on the art look like torn paper. The edges are not smooth. In looking around, people have been saying to use a wire wheel or wire-brush. I haven't tried it yet but was wondering if this is something you do in your post production?
I haven't really had that problem. I stick with my melamine sponges!
Over 1 year ago I did a video on TH-cam on using cold galvanizing spray on glass & Tile and used water to wash off the mess. I run a 5.5w optical diode laser at around 60% power Glad to see you found the same results as me.
Yeah, I was surprised that you can wash it off with water!
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild Probably washes off because the glass is not porous enough for it to adhere to it.
Hello! Would this work with lettering as well? Say for a wine glass/champagne flute?
I’ve been trying to decide between a Glowforge & the D1 and it looks like this is more what I’m looking for.
Your videos are always so helpful!
Absolutely. And you can’t do cylinders with a Slow Forge. 😜
Great video. Outtakes too. Very informative. Subscribed.
Thanks for the sub!
Nick really appreciate your videos and have learned a lot about the D1 from you. I’m having some issues with glass engraving. I’m using the cold galvanizing compound and same settings as you use. I’m getting black lines almost a gradient look to it vs the bright white you’re getting. I went to 200 lines per cm and it’s still happening. I’ve wasted a lot of glass and time trying to figure this out. Any help would be appreciated.
A couple of things
1 - of course make sure your focus is on the highest point of the glass
2 - if the glasses are tapered make sure you're mitigating that
3 - Experiment with more and/or less cold galvanizing compound
I'm assuming that you have the 10watt. If you have the 5watt the settings will be different.
If none of that works, drop me a line and we can troubleshoot. nick@builddadbuild.com
Cheers
Ever figure this out?
@@Sinistrad I ended up getting the enduramark glass etching compound. Normally do 3 coats and make sure and let it completely dry. Use 100% power and 12mm/sec. After etching I use a pick tool to scratch the etching to get the layer of compound off which reveals a nice white etch under it.
Still looking for other mediums to try because enduramark is really expensive.
Thank you. I have been trying to etch glass and now I know why I failed.
Hey Nick thanks for the solid video, what's the speed/power for the good skull?thx
100% power / 9mm/s
Cheers
Love the video! What file format did you use for the image?
png
Going to try these settings to do some Glencarin Whiskey glasses.
Just finished watching, great video.
Maybe I missed it, did you actually specify the final settings? Did you slow down the speed and keep it at 100%?
If I'm recalling correctly it's 12 mm/s @ 100% power
@@BuildDadBuild That was your first setting for the skull was there a change in the setting to get it right the second time? Thanks
Your videos are freaking awesome! A couple of months ago I bought the Two Trees T-55 laser as an entry level laser. I can do wooden coasters really easily. I am hoping your video helps me with my glass! Keep up the great work!
So, the second skull was Stainless, 100% and 12mm/s. Correct? Thanks!
Fantastic 🍺! Just received my D1 10W and the rotatry, your videos played a part on my decision. If I'm not imposing too much, in the first attempt you showed settings as 100% power/12 mm-sec, then the second time you switched to coated metal which is 100/70, is that the final or something in between? Help is appreciated brother.
If I switched to coated metal that was an error. Keep your settings at 100% @ 12mm/s
Also, I've discovered that raising the DPI doesn't always result in a better engrave.
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild Thank you so much for your help, very valuable. In a wacko moment I had the power at 100%, finish the first letter then it cracked the glass at the beginning of the second letter, toning it down a little 😁.
@@BuildDadBuild Hi. I have an Ortur Laser Master with a 5W diode laser and i do find your settings of 100% power @ 12 mm/s a bit strange. Are you sure it's only 12 mm/s? I engrave glasses @ 600 mm/s if i go for 100% power.
Sorry for my question but i find 12 mm/s way to slow.
@@Rui69Bernardo I think you are confused with your numbers.
Nick's setting of 12mm/s = 720mm per minute.
Your 600mm/s = 36,000mm per minute.
It is not possible to engrave at that speed.
@@Maluk30 Hi. Yes, you are right, i got confused with the numbers. My last glass engravings were made with 90% power at 1050 mm/min. Sorry for my mistake.
Love your videos! Could this be donr with the Xtool P2? Do you know the settings?
Yes. I don’t know settings off the top of my head.
@@BuildDadBuildNIck, they WERE on the top of your head, but, they SLID OFF that good look'in bald head.... NO offense, just good fun - MY BAD 🙂 I've got my D1 10 Watt PRO kit with rotary coming as soon as I pull the trigger and your good video is priming me with the smarts to start off running.... Thanks. Hank
I believe that it just helps absorb the energy of the laser, We use sharpies on broken diamonds to explode them at work when using a laser welder because it doesn't give the the energy a clear path. So from what I understand it just helps stop the energy of the laser from going through the glass
But I am new to the laser engraver so feel free to correct me
Nick! Thanks for the videos. It looks like there is some galvanizing compound that is getting melted in to the glass. In other words, when I clean the glass off, there are areas where the compound remains. Some of it is grey and some if it is black. Not everywhere, just in some places. I can send you a pic.
Usually that means you laid it on too thick, or there was a thick spot.
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild P E R F E C T !!! I went ULTRA light and it came out perfect!!
@@3rmedic NOICE!
Ohhh that’s good to know because mine was real deep also!!!
Cold galvanizing compound contains a ton of zinc, so amazing ventilation is a must because it is highly toxic.
Great video - What is the function of the paint? are other colors well too? Thank you
Paint works as a transfer agent.
At least you got instructions. My eSun3D cleaning filament came with zero instructions, just rolled up filament in a bag.
Hi bdb. Would you need the honeycomb panel when doing glasses or is it just for the wood engraving? Thanks, been watching your stuff alot. !!
You do not need the honeycomb if you are using the rotary.
Cheers!
@@BuildDadBuild thanks for the reply. Just one more thing, if you could help?!
Should I use the stainless steel present setting on a glass if I have used tempara paint instead of galvanised spray? Or should I go less aggressive. Many thanks again! Subscribed
You'll need to run a speed and power test for best settings.
Loving your videos. Just beginning to laser on glass. With cold galvanising spray on colored glass what color will etch parts appear. I see how you used the invert image on the skull to get it white.
I think it will etch white. But not entirely sure if that’s on all colors.
So I’ve done this 3 times now exactly the same way you did. My images all come out black and fade pretty good when I clean them with lacquer. I noticed yours came out white and didn’t seem to fade when you cleaned them. Any suggestions would be appreciated thank you! I’ve been watching your videos you’ve already taught me a lot!
If it's flaking off that usually means you're spraying it too much.
Cheers
I figured out I was using the wrong setting. I was using coated metal instead of stainless
will this work on champagne glasses. and how could you color fill ?
Yes. No color fill.
Is the glassware still safe to drink from after spraying this stuff on it and then hitting it with paint thinner...? Thanks for the video!
Yes. Just make sure everything has been cleaned off. You can also run it through the dishwasher.
Dad - what's the light deal/ electric tube up above on ceiling in the garage - is it some kind of air cleaner? Great video by the way - thanks for all you do!
No. It’s just a LED garage light fixture.
amzn.to/3Hd1y6d
Awesome! I'm learning a lot from you. thanx for sharing
Just did this for the first time. Except I used plasti dip and It worked great!!
Any idea how to get the powder coat off? Saw your reply regarding food safety… would like to get the material off and leave the etching. Tried about 4 different thinners, it’s definitely “magic”ed on there. :)
Powder coated glass?
@@BuildDadBuild that’s what it seems like. Made the assumption since it’s a zinc product (used the cold galvanizing compound) heated. Most similar place in my brain is powder coat. Since my comment, tried a few more things: polishing wheel, wire wheel, and some picks. Thus far (for those reading) picks work best. You’re chipping off zinc oxide (effectively) so wear a respirator.
Question how long should it take to etch glass with 20W xtool laser using light burn and should image be changed to bit map?
Depends on how complex the image is.
Love the videos, when I etch with my D1 , when to hot etching black and when I lower seems to be silvery. Maybe it's just the video but yours looks frosted. How do I get it frosted.
You are probably using too much product.
I got my d1 this past week. I had a 5w ortur and when I used the CGC I just used a sos pad and water to get the coating off. Have you tried that? I did it that way to not have to use a thinner.
I have been told you can scrub it off. I had lacquer thinner handy, so I used that.
Cheers
Hi, Would you need the stainless steel preset if you were using tempara paint instead of galvanised spray? Many thanks
Not sure. I've never used Tempura paint. You'd need to run a test power and speed grid.
Cheers
Hey. Very helpful videos. I'm getting burn marks on like 10% of my glass ideas how to get rid of that?
usually means you're either burning too hot or moving too slow.
@@BuildDadBuild which one would you adjust first?
Hi there. Have you tried engraving acrylic with this xtool machine? Thanks!
Yes I have. I show an example in this video!
Cheers
just followed these exact directions. any suggestions if some of the coating in the laser etched wiped away when cleaning it off ?
Usually that means that either there was too much cold galvanized compound on it (one light coat is all you need) or I have discovered if you turn the DPI up sometimes the results aren't as good (keep it at 100)
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild thank you! ill give it a try
Using my xtool d1pro 10w in a public school technology & manufacturing class. What problems did you have with paint vs galvanize? This was the first video and one of the best on etching glass. Great Job. Just know I can't use it in class without editing it a little for language. LOL
LOL. I have yet to use paint, just the CGC. But, stay tuned.
I doubt you’ll see this but the etching spray I’m using makes my images black on glass, what are you using that makes it white??
If it's going black you are burning the compound.
Sorry to bother you I have been trying to engraver/Etch some Whiskey glasses but for some reason it's not etching I'm using the same stuff you are but I can't seem to get it right on the Whiskey glasses The decanter came out great
If buying a 1st laser which would you recommend between the Xtool or the Ortur pro? I am trying to decide which one to buy.
xTool. Out of all the lasers in the shop, the xTool is the one I go to to get things done.
Cheers
I've at this for a while now and can't seem to get the outcome right.
10W diode, same settings, same spray, lacquer thinner to clean.
I end up with the etching all grey/black as the 'Cold Galvanizing Compound' seems embedded in to the glass. It looks fine, but I'm shooting for the fogged glass look like Nick has here.
Not sure what I'm doing wrong here!
You're probably putting too much product on the glass.
@@BuildDadBuild Thanks for the reply.
I believe I sorted this out. I had my resolution up too high. had it at 14.3 pixel/mm (~363 dpi). Reduced this to 6.7 pixel/mm (~170 dpi) and the black stopped sticking and I ended up with a nice even fog.
I think the higher res was driving the microfissures deep in to the glass and drawing the paint particles in to the fissures, locking that color in to the glass permanently.
I mean that is cool if the color was more consistent and I may play more with mixing the concept of high res on some part and lower res on the other to have black accents.
Anyway, often we want the higher resolution for a cleaner image, but in glass etching this is not the best course of action
I tried the CGC on white ceramic tile and fried the lens cover. You should mention that it is very dirty. Added air assist mod but still had the same result.
Weird. I've never had any problem.
Cheers
Hi mate, would this machine cut into shot glasses too?? Thanks mate
It will mark glass
I've been etching glasses with my son for the last two months using vinyl and armour etch.
This looks great. It seems you can get details in there that would be hard to do with a vinyl stencil. The question I have is this. Is this a faster process? It seems like the spraying and cleaning really slows things down.
you should NOT be laser engraving vinyl. The fumes are toxic and the exhaust is corrosive.
@BuildDadBuild I think you misunderstood me. No worries. I'm doing a chemical etch. No lasers at the moment. I'm considering doing laser similar to how you are.
Hi, I was wondering if you you know how to use the ir module to clean rust? If so do you have a Step-by-step video on how to go about doing it?
I don’t. I think it would take quite a while. Normally those machines have a fan shaped beam
@Build Dad Build What are you cleaning the compound off with?
lacquer thinner
Do you use air assist? I got good results but have noticed slight darkness from the cold galvanized compound until I chip away that area.
Yes
Very nice work. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, Adrian,
Cheers
Can you use that cold galv compound to engrave stainless to get darker marks?
You can use dry moly to get darker etches. I've also heard tempera paint, but have yet to experiment with it. If you want to get fancy Enduramark is always an option. And if you want to try Enduramark out email me nick@builddadbuild.com for a promo code for 20% off...
Cheers
What does he use to spray on it
im using Xtool creative space with my D1 are those same settings?
What Power/Speed settings did you use for the one that came out perfect?
I think it was the stainless steel settings. It will vary from laser to laser.
Any chance you would want to a Bourbon / Whiskey Glencarin for us bourbon drinkers?
Quick question. When you did your stainless steel & glass, using the default settings (100%power, 12 mm/Dec) Did it take almost and hour? Mine did and the image was barely 2.5x2.5”
More like 30 minutes...
Cheers
Depends on how dense your image is. I have a monogram 40mm x80mm. When scored it takes 10 minutes. When etched it takes 40.
Great video nick
Two notes.
1. The type of glass *may* make a difference, borosilicate vs soda lime?
2. Making sure the galvanizing spray is FULLY dry?
Got to have several glasses to test and more for the final burn.
Thanks for the video. Hank
Can you show how to engrave an image on a wine tumbler? I'm wondering if it is possible because of the shape of the tumbler. We are planning to do some for a wedding and need some guidance. Thanks
It is possible. And stay tuned it's on the list!
Cheers
3 questions
1) does the x1 REQUIRE internet connection
2) you can prioritie software and 3rd party i.e RDworks & Lightburn
3) Last what were the final settings for the 10Watt diode
1)No
2)Lightburn
3) Said them in the video
Cheers!
So how does a laser engraver deal with complex contours like an ax head? The distance from the laser is almost constantly varied… will the image distort?
Diodes need a flat surface. A CO2 with a larger lens could probably handle it.
So does the "Zinc-Rich" spray produce zinc fumes as well? Any risk of "zinc flu" even with ventilation?
Always have proper ventilation. If you are worried about zinc flu try a marking spray like Enduramark
You're saving me money and making me laugh. Thank you again. *algorithm bump*
Cheers!
Is there a way to have the end result be a different color? Either through the transfer material or some kind of dye that grabs onto the etched surfaces and not the unetched glass?
Laser marking spray.
So laser Grbl settings for my 10w atomstack should be 100% at 720 speed. I'm about to try this. 🤞
Hi, I used the galvanizing compound on several attempts and each came out black and very hard to remove. I had to pick off the residue with an X-acto knife. How did you get yours to turn white and removable? 😣
It sounds like you might be applying too little or too much. Or possibly running your power too high.
Cheers
So... I know you mentioned not knowing exactly how it works, but is it embedding hard metals in the glass?
What are your thoughts on food safety here?
It's on the exterior of the glass. Not really concerned about it at all. If you are concerned, I would suggest not putting it in the dishwasher.
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild solid point.
Trying to figure out exactly what metals can be used with this laser? I am getting the 20 watt version. I'm curious about zinc alloy... Thanks!
Haven't tried with Zinc.
Do you think that the cold galvanizing compound will work with stainless steel? Thanks in advance
Try dry moly lube.
@@BuildDadBuild thanks
How do you clean off the Cold Galvanizing Compound?
Lacquer Thinner.
If you add some crumpled shop paper Inside the glass it will help reduce the laser light from bouncing around the shop .
Off topic 😂 where did u get the Jason mask on the wall 🎉
I carved it. 👍🏻👍🏻
@@BuildDadBuild Very Nice...
What type of spray is for etching the glass and for steel tumblers? I didn’t hear you say 🥴
Coated metal tumblers don’t need any spray (stay tuned for that video). Stainless I have some Dry Moly coming to try (that is supposed to be what works on bare metals)
@@BuildDadBuild I have this laser coming next week with the cylinder attachment. Thickness of hard wood says 3/8. I use all the hard woods, but it didn’t go through the red oak, so what about walnut, maple and the others from 1/4 to 1/2? What did you use on the glass?
Does is have to be Cold Galvanizing Compound Spray or can it be just regular spray paint?
I have heard of folks having similar results with other paints. I just haven't tried it myself.
Cheers
Hi isaw on your video you used a door stop to lift the rotary. When i do they my image seems off
Seems not straight. How can i get my image or text straight on the glass
It's killing me this engraving 😢😢.
Every time the imsge seems to drop or go higher on one side.. 😕 thanks 👍👍👍
You’ve got to make sure the item you are engraving is level and doesn’t slip when the rotary spins.
@@BuildDadBuild is it manual then to get the image straight and not dropping? It's basically you lining the laser (not crosshairs) to the rail? Even when the glass is level
@@dannoc1070 Make sure to check if the piece is level to the laser head. Use a square to make sure you’re in focus, etc.
What do you use to coat the glass item
?
Once it's etched? Nothing. It's permanent.
What color is replacing gray?
Saw someone use dish soap for the carrier media
So do you want the white flakes then sand it off? Or did I cut too hot and need to turn back power so it doesn’t flake?
The flakes are from the product, not the glass.
@@BuildDadBuild so I need different glass more than likely?
@@chaddhaddox9523 No. Those aren't glass flakes...its residule from the spray you're using.
@@BuildDadBuild I went and bought the cold compound. Much better
I just searched (How to laser engrave on glass with xTool D1 pro.) To see what came up. Well it's an xTool blog by Winnie Li on Nov 25, 22. It has these exact video clips on the page? Some comp. Or is it considered a PLR? 🤔
xTool has asked if they can use my footage in the past.
Love your videos. I have followed your details 100% and I just cannot get the results you do. I've tried the Cold Galvanized compound and black Rustoleum and it just won't turn out.
Usually that is due to too much or too little paint on the piece.
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild im going to repaint a few. Just makes me crazy. You helped me fix my tile issues already with the test grids.
On the second run what settings did you use? Thanks.
The stainless steel settings, I believe.
@@BuildDadBuild thanks
Does the final product last through dishwashers? I work at a bar and wanted to surprise the owner with a few glasses with a logo but not if it wears right off
I have washed that one at least a dozen times and it appears to be holding up!
Cheers
Potential dumb question. When etching an object that is tapered like a standard pint glass, does the rolling action cause the glass to move or slide down and skew the engraving?
Not dumb. Depending on the taper you can either focus half the distance between the top most and bottom most part of the image. Or I've seen a lot of folks put a wedge under the rotary to level it out.
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild Awesome and thank you. I got my wife the Xtool for christmas so I'm learning how to use it.
@@BuildDadBuild I'd love to see a couple demos of that if you have the free time.
With my ortur rotary a pint glass will move because of it's shape. I seen a vid of people making an attachment for it using a 3d printer to keep it steady. I might look into that.
@@mrfreak64 I just use a rubber door stop and prop up the glass. I'm posting a video on it next week.
Cheers
Do you know if Xtool D1 10W can engrave on plaster?
No idea...
What compound are you spraying the glass with?
Cold Galvanizing Compound
@@BuildDadBuild Thanks for the quick reply. I've only found it in grey. I was wondering if it comes in other colors, such as a bright white or navy blue.
Anyway you have or can do a video using marking paper?
Don’t have one. Haven’t had much luck with glass and marking paper.
@@BuildDadBuild what problems were you running into? I have used different colors and they all engrave differently. been playing with settings. The marking paper either goes deep or it doesn't and it can chip.