Wine Glass Engraving- Fantastic Results!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ธ.ค. 2022
- Join me as I create an Engraved Wine Glass!
A perfect project whether you're using an AtomStack, Xtool, Jiccoda, or Ortur laser machine. Your specific machine may have the rotary attachment connect a little differently, but the idea and instructions on how to size, prepare the glass, and the final engraving are all the same!
Video timeline:
0:33 Materials for this project
3:56 Placement of the rotary in the machine
6:03 Placing and leveling the Wine Glass on the rotary
7:52 Making a design in LightBurn software
13:01 Test engraving using blue painters tape
17:20 Painting the glass with tempera paint
20:32 Engraving the glass!
This video is perfect for new users or those ready to dive into glass engraving!
In this video I'm using the following machine and accessories:
The A20 Pro that features the powerful 20 watt laser module and included air assist kit!
View on Amazon-
A20 pro:
www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5Z6J2W2
R3 Pro Roller (Rotary Attachment)
www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7HCLX4F
What’s the difference between the A20, S20, and X20- only the color of the machine- everything else is the same.
Would you like to see more Atomstack products featured? Leave a comment below on what other products you would like to see!
Stay up to date by checking out out Facebook page: @TheLaserChannel - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Very well explained! Thanks :)
Thanks!
Very nice job, one thing I want to congratulate you on, is your use of the HUGE hand pointer, it makes it so nice to see where you point, in all the other videos the authors use the mouse, so by the time you locate that darn little thing, they have moved and you're chasing it, looking forward to burning some glasses. Since you know Photoshop, may suggest you fill color the HUGE hand in yellow?
Thank you. With so many things to click on in Lighburn I like to add the huge pointer sometimes :) Thanks for watching!
Very clear, even paced and informative. I'd almost lost hope before finding your video. Awesome!!
Wow- thank you so much!!
Great clear and concise instructions. I really like the detail you put into your video.
And on another note, please more AtomStack.
Thank you- more AtomStack is on the way. They make some nice machines!
One coat with a spraycan of Zinkspray, it´s all I need
While paint with zinc does work- I stopped using it a long time ago because of the health risks of spraying it and burning it with a laser. For these reasons I do not recommend using zinc spray paint.
Amazing! ❤❤❤
Thank you!
Very detailed instructions. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for commenting and watching the video!
Thank you for your advice. Everything can be learned from your video.
You're welcome and thank you!
😀
Izvrsna instrukcija. Upravo učim koristiti laserski graver i zaista cijenim vašu stručnost.
Hvala vam!
Great video. Very clear and precise. Thanks.
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!
great detailed video! About to try this project out myself!
Excellent! Thanks for watching and best wishes!
Excellent instruction. I’m just learning to use a laser engraver and I do appreciate your expertise. Thanks for sharing! 👍👍
Thanks so much! Wishes to you and your projects!
Great instructions, thanks for sharing !
Thank you!
just found your channel yesterday and watch a few videos, must say you are very informative on all you process. Like Gord Rock Thank you for sharing with us
Awesome!
Wow this was an a amazing video. I just got the Atomstack P9 M40 & Rotary R3 Pro I can't wait to try this.
Thank you!
Excellent!! Thank you 👍👍
You are welcome!
Great Content, I have been struggling with my new Falcon 2 rotary. Thanks.
Excellent- thanks for watching!
Excellent video - this is very helpful for me right now. I'd like to add, that the new LightBurn 1.5 includes the ability to automagically ;-) transform the graphics for tapered objects just entering the upper and lower diameter. This way, you don't have to go through external transforming or creating in Photoshop.
Thanks! You are 100% correct- Lighburn has (finally) added the tapered object tool! I've used it and it really streamlines my workflow!
The new Lightburn will let you do that. Good job good advice on the blue painter's tape.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you sir!
You are very welcome!
I really enjoy your instructional videos. I just came across your wine glass engraving video. Only thing I do different is I mix my tempura paint 50/50 with 70 percent alcohol. I get a much finer spray using a Harbor Freight cheap airbrush. I’m using an Atomstack A10 and their A3 roller. I just ordered their A1 chuck roller. I also have a 50 watt CO2 that I use for flat work. I really appreciate your efforts and great videos. Wish all the other TH-camrs were as concise in their videos as you are. You are now my go to guy. Thanks for you work and dedication.
Thanks so much! And thanks for sharing your tempura mix ratios- I'll have to try it out soon!
great video, you deserve more views! keep going at it mate
Thanks so much!
Chalkspray !! Very nice Results !!😉
Thanks- its my favorite spray to use on glass when using a laser diode machine!
Very informative video! Have you ever used any spray-based paint other than your airbrush?
Thanks! I have used cold galvanizing compound spray; it has a lot of fumes while spraying, drying, and lasering so I don't use it very often. In the works is a video of all the popular glass engraving methods including a new one I created! Stay tuned!
Thanks, great video with all the details for someone who is just beginning. Have you ever tried removing permanent paint from glass by laser? Like volume markings or logos. I'm trying to remove some logos from my borosilicate glassware but atm it seems to remove the paint and engrave it (like you would normally want). Do you think there is a setting that will only remove the paint? Many passes with low power maybe?
Hi- I have not removed permanent paint on glassware. Maybe one of the viewers can offer a comment. Thanks for watching!
Try hanks for all of the tips. Another way of getting around the taper issue may be to use any image editor that lets you adjust the image angle on the x or y axis. I know my iPhone has that capability. Not an exact way to do it but could get you very close.
You're welcome! Hopefully Lighburn will add a perspective warp tool soon- they said they did but it's more a 3d tool and doesn't correct for tapers.
Hey Greg, enjoy your videos, very informative. Just a few questions. Would just regular acrylic paint not work as well? Would any other color than black work?
Thank you! I haven't used acrylic paint, but I think it would work. I use tempera paint because of the easy water clean up; even when the tempera paint is dry. Black is the most common color to use because it will absorb the most amount of laser energy making for great engraving. I have used other colors and have only seen small differences- nothing major.
Hi, what is that black coating before engraving for?
To engrave better or as protection?
Are they ordinary temperas (water crayons)?
The black coating is for engraving- without it the laser energy would pass through the glass without engraving. I'm using ordinary tempera paint found at craft stores!
Hi, which tape are you using?
Blue painters tape! Thanks for watching!
Quick question... What DPI are you using?
I used 317 DPI with is line interval of 0.08mm. Settings of 250-300 DPI work great for most glass engraving applications. Thanks for watching!
Greg Andrew here
Could you tell me all the settings I need with my k1 pro laser. I’m getting confused I tried using a black sharpie and it isn’t working so well
Hi Greg- On my 20 watt laser systems I use settings around 80mm/s at 65% power. I don't think a black sharpie will be opaque enough. In the video I used black tempura paint. Here's a video with 8 different ways to mask glass to engrave with a laser diode: th-cam.com/video/7s7Y7YoSR5k/w-d-xo.html
@@thelaserchannel1 Thanks Greg for your help.
@@andrewearl9315 You're welcome!
Now I come again with a question.I want to get into the business so ,for my budget I want to choose between A20 pro and A24pro(which now is with 100Euro cheaper than A20).I want to do only glass and metal engraving. So,please be kind and help me to make a decision....
A24 Pro for the WIN (in the USA it's labeled as the X24 Pro)- it's preassembled, has an upgraded rail guide system for the x and y axis, and has a clean layout and cable management. The drawback is the unibody frame is all one piece so there's no option to expand the work area. The A24 Pro also has a slightly smaller work area. Either machine will engrave glass once it's coated with a marking agent like tempura paint. Both will color mark Stainless steel black- mirrored stainless steel will need a coating to keep the laser from reflecting back in the laser module and causing immediate damage. Hope this helps and best wishes.
@thelaserchannel1 WoW! This is way beyond than I expected . A trully professional answer. Thank you so much for your kindness ,Sir! I wish you all the best! KING REGARDS!