I found that using the Cold Galvanizing compound paint from Lowes at 60mm/sec and 95% power left an incredible smooth black etch in the glass, at much slower speed it frosted the glass. I think it left a better image in black than the more expensive charcoal glass spray from Enduramark. It worked on tile the same way at 90mm/sec at 90% power. This is on the 10w version of the D1.
I tried 60mm/sec 95% power with galvanizing compound and it looked really good until I washed off the burnt paint and it left a very faint etching, too fast to really effect the glass. Using xtool d1 pro 10 watt. I think I’m going to try the black tempera technique tommorow.
I'm genuinely asking this... at 12mm/second, how long did it take to etch that image? I'm currently following your steps for a 3"x3" logo on a beer mug, and it's saying it's gonna take almost 8 hours! Is that about right?
@BuildDadBuild appreciate the reply. I realized about halfway thru my etching that you said 12mm per SECOND... and I was an idiot and set it to 12mm per MINUTE 😅 at least this was just a test piece! Appreciate your videos, brother!
hello, enjoy your video's. Wanted to pass along a tip. You should try tempura paint instead of the galvanizing spray. I have gotten the same results with tempura paint as the with the spray. Pros: tempura easier to clean up and non toxic, also way cheaper. Cons: takes a bit for a thick coat of tempura to dry, so I use heat gun to flash dry it. Just wanted to pass it on, in case you wanted to give it a shot.
@@cynthiasparks7545 I personally use a foam brush and one heavy coat of tempura paint. Lightly drag the tempura with one stroke, dont go over it again without reloading your foam brush.
I am having a lot of trouble. I do the line test to get the rotations per mm. Then I do and engrave a logo and it is very skewed. So then I go do the line test again, and then get that set to where the two ends meet again, then go back and engrave the logo, well its still skewed. I have the cup flat even though it is slanted. And then when I get any type of engraving, the glass from the engraved part chips. So i try new settings, and nothing seems to work.
@@BuildDadBuild thanks done that . Going to do another power test. I saw your on call galvanize compound spray paint so got the paint. Hope this actually works. .
Alright I'm etching some glass for my brother in law and I found that I have like flaking. So I scrape the coat of etching off and get an alright image but I lose all detail. I guess my ? Is am I supposed to scrape off the etched part?
I had a question, I’ve done some glass engraving, I’ve noticed when I use Black colored rust oleum paint my colors are different vs when I use white colored paint, would grey be a good idea? What color paint would you recommend as a mask?
followed your video. Its a good one, but i had one problem. One of my letters came out kind of 'stretched' out then the others... any idea why that is?
Have you done a coffee cup yet? Thank you for sharing your time and talent again. You always give me a good laugh and I walk away with a good deal of knowledge! Keep on rocking!
Great video, only thing is that it’s 2 yrs old, any chance you have a newer video using XCS? I’m super new to engraving and I’m ready to mess up my wife’s kitchen glasses with my new rotary lol
If you do the same method but incline on the opposite side. The glass will be prevent to walk down cause it’ll be on the mechanic edge of the roller , acting like a stopper
I ordered the new and improved rotary attachment and it finally shipped yesterday. 2-3 weeks hopefully is all I'm waiting for it to travel from Hong Kong to Wisconsin, but who knows how long it will take.
I appreciate the videos you have made for etching glass. When I first bought my D1, pint glasses were the main idea I had. I have been able to etch the glass using this method, but I’m actually ending up with a super light etch and would like a better image so I could actually sell them. I’m not sure if you have any tips on getting a darker etch or not but I would really appreciate it.
A little more CGC might do it. Sometimes designs need to be inverted in order for them to show up better. Also slowing the laser or increasing DPI might help. Cheers
It's hard to notice, but did you adjust the width of the square image to make it still look square when viewing it on a round object ? As for the paint I use Vallejo black primer and apply it with my airbrush.
@@BuildDadBuild you said to use "stainless" settings, I believe you were using laserbox at the time, xcs has 3 different stainless settings, I can translate to 20w if I can ever figure out where to start..
Thanks for the video Nick. First of yours I've watched. You seem to have played / worked with the cylinder engraving tool more than most so I'll ask you. Will this attachment do a small enough diameter to etch the handle of a pool cue? If you think it might, do you have any tips / tricks I might need other than the levelling that you just made very clear. I am buying an Atomstack X7. Also do you suggest air assist? Thanks again for your video. I really like your detailed but Not boring approach.
Nice video/tutorial. Did the Duff logo come out square or smaller at the bottom than the top? The finished product was only shown for a blink of a second. It would be nice to see how you handle the "warp", if at all.
Hi! I have a question and I hope you can answer it. When you laser engrave onto a pint glass, does it come out smooth or is the glass going to be jagged like it was chipped away?
We've been using the rastolium cold galvanizing spray paint, but aint, but our glasses keep coming out with the image black Rather than frosted white. How do I combat that? Thanks
@@BuildDadBuild Brilliance Laser Ink, Cermark, there's a few, but never tried the compound you were using, I made the remark that I would love to see if the compound stuff worked with the Fiber like the other sprays do...
Thank you for such a VERY useful video. However, I cannot get that compound in my country. What else can be placed on the glassbefore engraving? Also, is the compound easy to remove?
Nick.. I've been experimenting with different mediums for etching glass (Dry Moly, Zinc/Galvanizing, Tempera, Tape, etc...), and have found that most mediums are "about" equal. Side note, at least with the galvanizing I am using, I run a second pass to burn off excess material left behind on first pass.... but, I digress.. The point of my post, and I do have one, is to ask you a question: have you tried using "Rub'n Buff" (get yer mind outta the gutter!) on the etched part of the glass? I have watched several videos of the folks who do chemical etching of glass follow-up with Rub'n Buff to bring color to their glass etchings (gold leaf, copper, ebony, etc...). I am going to experiment on some of my existing test pieces this weekend, but wondered if you had already seen this product. If you see this and are interested in my results... let me know and I'll be happy to share.
I have the xTool d1 also but when I engrave glass on those settings with cold galv or Cermark I always get a burnt layer and spots of discoloration,any pointers?
I was researching Glowforge and Xtool came up in my FB feed, so I started researching and all info pointed to D1 over Glowforge, so I bought the bundle with the rotary tool. I am getting close, 5 our of 8 boxes have been delivered, so I am binge watching your videos! I started out with Cricut (cutting machine), added sublimation (ink turning to gas to sublimate on various things: T-shirts, tumblers, everything the D1 can do, but a different technique)! I would happily buy your top subscription if you got a better camera. We cannot see anything you do in the app, it's all blurry. That is an important part, along with you setting up you substrate in the honeycomb or rotary device. Love your humor and even your mistakes! Look forward to watching more!
I solved this problem by just placing a heavy object in the way in the direction of the walk (in my case a tea tin with some weights in it) - cheap, fast, and at least for my purposes results have been great.
I love your videos I’m in the look for a laser to have fun with and so far the X TOOL 20w package is what I’m looking to get and your making it more easy for me to make the purchase.Thank you for making these videos
With the glass tapering, how did you determine circumference? Did you use the opening of the glass or the middle of the glass? Any insight is appreciated! Keep up the awesome videos!
Why do you need circumference? The images are measured by width. If you are concerned with where the image will be placed I would measure the circumference in the middle of the engravable area. Cheers
Thanks for all the great videos! When I used the cold galvanizing compound on glass it etched the image in black. I thought it would be the white frosted look like yours. Do you have any idea why mine etched black?
Bro please tell me you watched the Xtool d1 20w livestream..... Dude KILLER....... THEY BUILT A 20W DIODE LASER THAT YOU JUST SWAP OUT FOR THE 5 0R 10 W IN YOUR D1....
Thank you for amazing work you share Nick,would you recommend running this tool in a small home with little ventilation or is it better option in workshop?
You definitely need some sort of ventilation. If you were going to run it in a home, I would suggest building or buying an enclosure with some sort of venting option. Cheers!
@@BuildDadBuild Do you tape off the image somehow before using the lacquer thinner or are you just very careful? I didn’t see a super thick border on your image
Your videos are great and so helpful! Have you seen or tried the Sculpfun S9? I'm looking for a larger work space and deeper cuts. I wonder also if a camera can be added to any of the diode lasers? Or if you can mix and match accessories, like the rotary?
I got to use the S6...it was a decent unit. Have not had the pleasure of working with the S9. Some of the accessories are mix and match. You just need to make sure you've got the same connectors! Cheers
Nick, I appreciate this video, as I'm new to the laser engraving game...my girlfriend wants to personalize and give stemless champagne flutes to her bridesmaids and I think this vid will definitely help me...but my concern is the tulip shape of the glasses...they're actually pink-colored coated steel stemless flutes...so not EXACTLY like the pint glasses, but sort of.....clear as mud?
Why not to use rubber ring on glass bottom or sth printed to have top and bottom of glass at the same height? IMO it's way easier and more precise than door stops. Smoething like "O" = glass top, "o" = glass bottom, "o-O" - printed/engraved ring with hole that outside diameter fits "O" and inside diamiter that fits bottom "o" of glass. Even painters tape wraped few times on glass bottom should work fine :). Don't understand me wrong, I still appriciate your effort 😉. Keep it up.
I have seen those methods, and I agree with them. I feel like this is the simplest solution for those out there that don't want to print something, etc. But if you've go the way to do it, more power to ya, brother! I actually use a roll of painters tape for my 30oz tumblers!LOL Cheers
This is the method I use, too. I was worried the differing circumferences from the top of the glass to the bottom would roll at different rates on the rotary causing skewing/shifting of the image. Have used a roll of masking tape in a pinch, too. :)
I found that using the Cold Galvanizing compound paint from Lowes at 60mm/sec and 95% power left an incredible smooth black etch in the glass, at much slower speed it frosted the glass. I think it left a better image in black than the more expensive charcoal glass spray from Enduramark. It worked on tile the same way at 90mm/sec at 90% power. This is on the 10w version of the D1.
Good to know!
I tried 60mm/sec 95% power with galvanizing compound and it looked really good until I washed off the burnt paint and it left a very faint etching, too fast to really effect the glass. Using xtool d1 pro 10 watt. I think I’m going to try the black tempera technique tommorow.
Do you change speed and power for frosted look? D1 pro 20w.
@@Dhump007 what did you come up with for your settings for the 20w
Can you tell us the 20W settings?
What's the process for cleaning off the paint after you're done printing. I'm assuming just use the paint thinner.
Yup.
Idk what I would do without you! Your videos are everything!
Wow, thank you!
1:04 is it food safe after lasering? I want to engrave flat melted wine bottles to use as chees plate
yes
I'm genuinely asking this... at 12mm/second, how long did it take to etch that image? I'm currently following your steps for a 3"x3" logo on a beer mug, and it's saying it's gonna take almost 8 hours! Is that about right?
Sounds close. Depends on how detailed the image is.
@BuildDadBuild appreciate the reply. I realized about halfway thru my etching that you said 12mm per SECOND... and I was an idiot and set it to 12mm per MINUTE 😅 at least this was just a test piece! Appreciate your videos, brother!
hello, enjoy your video's. Wanted to pass along a tip. You should try tempura paint instead of the galvanizing spray. I have gotten the same results with tempura paint as the with the spray. Pros: tempura easier to clean up and non toxic, also way cheaper. Cons: takes a bit for a thick coat of tempura to dry, so I use heat gun to flash dry it.
Just wanted to pass it on, in case you wanted to give it a shot.
There is actually a box of tempura paint sitting in the shop right now!
Cheers
Hello! How thick of a coating are you putting on? Mine is streaky and see thru after like 5 coats
@@cynthiasparks7545 I personally use a foam brush and one heavy coat of tempura paint. Lightly drag the tempura with one stroke, dont go over it again without reloading your foam brush.
@@cohode6290 Did you mean Tempera? I have been looking for tempura paint but none found!
@@TheDanzman1211 Yes, bad spelling on my part.
I am having a lot of trouble. I do the line test to get the rotations per mm. Then I do and engrave a logo and it is very skewed. So then I go do the line test again, and then get that set to where the two ends meet again, then go back and engrave the logo, well its still skewed. I have the cup flat even though it is slanted. And then when I get any type of engraving, the glass from the engraved part chips. So i try new settings, and nothing seems to work.
Try weighting the cup so it doesn't slip while engraving.
@@BuildDadBuild it doesn’t slip
Then your belts are loose or the laser head isn't seated properly.
Hi Nick . Got a dum question on Flat Glass for a laser. Laser glass Acrylic etching
You’ll have to do a speed and power grid for best settings.
@@BuildDadBuild thanks done that . Going to do another power test. I saw your on call galvanize compound spray paint so got the paint. Hope this actually works. .
what kind of spray do you use on the glass before you engrave it? what other options do u have instead of spray?
Cold Galvenizing compound
what do you do with steins? glass steins with handle?
Ofset with weight
How do you removed the cold galvanized compound? Do you just wipe it down with a clothe or need some kind of chemical to remove it? Thanks!
Lacquer thinner
Mine slides when it’s at an angle… any idea how to prevent that? I’m using the ortur rotary
weight the glass.
@@BuildDadBuild I’ll try that.
Alright I'm etching some glass for my brother in law and I found that I have like flaking. So I scrape the coat of etching off and get an alright image but I lose all detail. I guess my ? Is am I supposed to scrape off the etched part?
That flaking means you’re putting too much product on the glass. Just enough to coat it.
@@BuildDadBuild thank you for getting back with me on the issue I really appreciate it.
I had a question, I’ve done some glass engraving, I’ve noticed when I use Black colored rust oleum paint my colors are different vs when I use white colored paint, would grey be a good idea? What color paint would you recommend as a mask?
This is the only thing I've used to date. But I'd give grey a shot!
Cheers
followed your video. Its a good one, but i had one problem. One of my letters came out kind of 'stretched' out then the others... any idea why that is?
Usually means your piece is slipping on the rotary.
Thanks for your video! Mighty helpful. Can you use this technique to engrave images…( not vector files). Thanks much
Sure
So what happens if I use a regular spray paint like black or green. Will it work.? Does it etch that color.?
I really don't know.
What is a rolling toolbox?
Have you done a coffee cup yet? Thank you for sharing your time and talent again. You always give me a good laugh and I walk away with a good deal of knowledge! Keep on rocking!
I have not. However, I have had enough interest that I need to head to the thrift store and find some practice mugs!
Cheers
Great video, only thing is that it’s 2 yrs old, any chance you have a newer video using XCS? I’m super new to engraving and I’m ready to mess up my wife’s kitchen glasses with my new rotary lol
Use Lightburn.
I use that spray can but doesn't give me that frosting etching. It gives me that black etching
You’re using too much.
Can I ask what version of XTool that your using. I want to be able to etch glass quickly. Thanks in advance
I think that was the xTool D1 10W
What is the wedge you used to level the roller and where can I purchase one.....Great Video answered a lot of questions I had.
LOL. They’re just wide door stops!
amzn.to/3Gqjfhg
Cheers!
Thanks so much, found your link in Amazon....
What did you do to "STRIP" the paint off with? any special technique?
Lacquer Thinner
Hi how you doing this is Junior I was wondering what settings you use to make that cut I just bought a machine last week 10 watts.
I used the settings for stainless steel.
Cheers
Colored or tinted glassware. Do we know if we need the spray?
Yea. Anything transparent for the most part
How does gravity not cause the glass to slide down the rollers while spinning?
If you do the same method but incline on the opposite side. The glass will be prevent to walk down cause it’ll be on the mechanic edge of the roller , acting like a stopper
Quick question what did you use to put inside the cup so the laser doesnt go through it?
The transfer agent makes it opaque
I ordered the new and improved rotary attachment and it finally shipped yesterday. 2-3 weeks hopefully is all I'm waiting for it to travel from Hong Kong to Wisconsin, but who knows how long it will take.
Its worth it. That thing rocks!
@@BuildDadBuild I'm extremely excited.
do you wipe off the rest of the spray with alcohol after the laser burned it and the part that the laser burned stays only or?
I wipe the rest off with lacquer thinner.
Cheers!
how long did take to laser the duff glass ?
Bout 30 minutes.
You think this would work on clear acrylic?
I wouldn't want to try and get that off on clear acrylic. Try tempura paint.
Thank you!
I appreciate the videos you have made for etching glass. When I first bought my D1, pint glasses were the main idea I had. I have been able to etch the glass using this method, but I’m actually ending up with a super light etch and would like a better image so I could actually sell them. I’m not sure if you have any tips on getting a darker etch or not but I would really appreciate it.
A little more CGC might do it. Sometimes designs need to be inverted in order for them to show up better.
Also slowing the laser or increasing DPI might help.
Cheers
It's hard to notice, but did you adjust the width of the square image to make it still look square when viewing it on a round object ? As for the paint I use Vallejo black primer and apply it with my airbrush.
No. I did not adjust.
Just curious, how slow is necessary to get "frosted" look with cgc? Mine are mostly greyish.... I have a d1 pro 20w
Not sure. I haven’t run any with the 20w
@@BuildDadBuild you said to use "stainless" settings, I believe you were using laserbox at the time, xcs has 3 different stainless settings, I can translate to 20w if I can ever figure out where to start..
Great information. What roller are you using ?
The original rotary that came with the xTool before they upgraded to the RA2
@@BuildDadBuild Oh, that's why I didn't recognize it. Thanks sir.
Thank you for the information. Never thought about lifting one end of the roller up to make it level.
Sometimes is so simple you overlook it! LOL
Cheers
Thanks for the video Nick. First of yours I've watched. You seem to have played / worked with the cylinder engraving tool more than most so I'll ask you. Will this attachment do a small enough diameter to etch the handle of a pool cue? If you think it might, do you have any tips / tricks I might need other than the levelling that you just made very clear. I am buying an Atomstack X7. Also do you suggest air assist?
Thanks again for your video. I really like your detailed but Not boring approach.
Yes on the pool cue. Air assist is going to be more important if you are cutting.
Hay sweet. Got a questions can you use card stock To engravean image? And can diode laser cut glass? 🤓🧐
Friend,I really appreciate your work. We are looking for reviewers, would you like to review Longer's 3D printer & laser engraver?
You mention use laserbox basic - all over google it's saying don't use on a D1 Pro, any idea why - oh great video....
Their new software is XCS. This is an old video.
@@BuildDadBuild And that's what I've got on my system....
Nice video/tutorial. Did the Duff logo come out square or smaller at the bottom than the top? The finished product was only shown for a blink of a second. It would be nice to see how you handle the "warp", if at all.
No warp. It was all good. 👍🏻
Hi! I have a question and I hope you can answer it. When you laser engrave onto a pint glass, does it come out smooth or is the glass going to be jagged like it was chipped away?
I wouldn't say jagged, but you can feel the roughness of the etch.
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild Would you recommend to put some kind of clear coating over the glass to smooth it all the way around? Thanks for the reply!
We've been using the rastolium cold galvanizing spray paint, but aint, but our glasses keep coming out with the image black Rather than frosted white. How do I combat that?
Thanks
That’s either too much product or you are running too hot.
@@BuildDadBuild Will give that a try! Much appreciated.
Would love to see this compound work with your Fiber Laser....
Don't need it.
@@BuildDadBuild would you care to mansplain that comment? lol I have a 30W Raycus and have not found a way of Engraving on Glass...
@@guindonmike You can't engrave on glass with a fiber as far as I know.
@@BuildDadBuild Brilliance Laser Ink, Cermark, there's a few, but never tried the compound you were using, I made the remark that I would love to see if the compound stuff worked with the Fiber like the other sprays do...
@@guindonmike Then you already know more than me! LOL I just use my CO2 for glass...no spray needed.
Thank you for such a VERY useful video. However, I cannot get that compound in my country. What else can be placed on the glassbefore engraving?
Also, is the compound easy to remove?
I've heard tempura paint works...
have you tried the water cleanable stuff you do ceramic tiles with on glass?
Yes. Works great.
hi, does xcs software have simular settings to the basic software u are using? cheers mate. love the work!
Yes
Bro! I don't know how long it.would.have taken me to think of leveling the rollers brilliant!
Great video again. Do you think the fry moly would work as the coating?
You mean remove the coating?
I mean apply dry moly like you do on metal. I was just wondering if it would would work like the tempera coating.
Not sure.
Cold galvnizing spray hasn't worked for me. It just turn a crappy black.
A lot of the time that means you're using too much and your just burning the spray.
Do you just wash the excess paint off with water? Acetone?
I use lacquer thinner.
Is the xTool D1 a blue laser? I want to get a better pair of glasses than the ones that came with it. Suggestions of laser safety glasses? Thank man!
Yes it has a blue beam.
These are the ones I have and love them!
amzn.to/34ilrYm
Cheers
What did you use to clean the compound off the glass once engraving was done?
Lacquer Thinner
Nick.. I've been experimenting with different mediums for etching glass (Dry Moly, Zinc/Galvanizing, Tempera, Tape, etc...), and have found that most mediums are "about" equal. Side note, at least with the galvanizing I am using, I run a second pass to burn off excess material left behind on first pass.... but, I digress..
The point of my post, and I do have one, is to ask you a question: have you tried using "Rub'n Buff" (get yer mind outta the gutter!) on the etched part of the glass?
I have watched several videos of the folks who do chemical etching of glass follow-up with Rub'n Buff to bring color to their glass etchings (gold leaf, copper, ebony, etc...). I am going to experiment on some of my existing test pieces this weekend, but wondered if you had already seen this product.
If you see this and are interested in my results... let me know and I'll be happy to share.
I've never heard of it, but will check it out.
You can share your results on my Discord channel:
discord.gg/PTBeEwV9
Cheers!
@@BuildDadBuild Just joined and uploaded to #pictures ... enjoy!
I have the xTool d1 also but when I engrave glass on those settings with cold galv or Cermark I always get a burnt layer and spots of discoloration,any pointers?
That sounds like you're spraying too much product on the glass.
I was researching Glowforge and Xtool came up in my FB feed, so I started researching and all info pointed to D1 over Glowforge, so I bought the bundle with the rotary tool. I am getting close, 5 our of 8 boxes have been delivered, so I am binge watching your videos! I started out with Cricut (cutting machine), added sublimation (ink turning to gas to sublimate on various things: T-shirts, tumblers, everything the D1 can do, but a different technique)! I would happily buy your top subscription if you got a better camera. We cannot see anything you do in the app, it's all blurry. That is an important part, along with you setting up you substrate in the honeycomb or rotary device. Love your humor and even your mistakes! Look forward to watching more!
Not sure what to tell you, I shoot and edit in 1080p.
Cheers
I like your little stand you have for your laptop where’d you get it at.
Amazon of course! 🤣🤣
amzn.to/3ulbyTo
Thank you
Great video! How do you get the paint off?
I use lacquer thinner.
Cheers
What rotary tool are you using
.
This one:
www.xtool.com/collections/accessory/products/rotary-attachment-risers-8-packs-for-d1
Cheers
I can't get my glass to stay still on the rollers, it always moves and my images are slanted... any tips?
Plenty!
th-cam.com/video/Vjlu84bEEVo/w-d-xo.html
Oh my gosh Wowzers. Can this be done on a 5W laser? lol
I believe so.
@@BuildDadBuild sweet 😁 thanks
I have found that shimming the rotary can cause the item, like a large glass, to walk down hill causing the engrave pattern to shift.
That's why I did another video showing how to make a jig. I've found anything more than a pint glass doesn't "tilt" all that well.
Cheers
I solved this problem by just placing a heavy object in the way in the direction of the walk (in my case a tea tin with some weights in it) - cheap, fast, and at least for my purposes results have been great.
Is it possible to etch glass without painting it first?
Not with a diode laser. You need something for the beam to focus on. Diode lasers can't "see clear"
What did you use to strip compound
Lacquer thinner
Why do you have to cover it with paint first? You can’t put it In there just bare? Sorry I’m new with this
The laser will just pass through the clear surface. Diodes "don't see" glass
Cheers
Can you use regular spray paint for this?
Honestly, I don't know. Haven't tried it.
Cheers
have you done a mirror yet, where do you get all your pics from ? i just got my x tool d1 never tried anything like this before
I haven't done a mirror yet.
I get my pics from all over. I design some of them. And find others online.
Cheers
Can you engrave on glass like this with the ortur?
Sure can.
what wattage?
@@jeremymoore4905 that laser is 10w. You could probably do it with the 5watt, you’ll need to tune your settings.
Love your videos. Can you share where you got your base from for the Xtool?
What base?
When using the rotary to engrave have you had any issues with the image engraving backwards.
Only when I’ve had the rotary on the bed backwards
@@BuildDadBuild I didn't realize I had rotary tool backwards, Thank you Keep up the great videos.
@@bradirvin3932 I did the same thing the first time I used it. 👍🏻👍🏻
I love your videos I’m in the look for a laser to have fun with and so far the X TOOL 20w package is what I’m looking to get and your making it more easy for me to make the purchase.Thank you for making these videos
Awesome, Nick! Keep kicking ass!!
Currently taking names...
LOL
Cheers!
@@BuildDadBuild love it bud hahaha
Can this be used to engrave on polymers and metals and how deeply will it engrave on metals?
It will not etch metal. You need a fiber laser or extremely powerful CO2.
You can mark some metals using a transfer agent.
Cheers
With the glass tapering, how did you determine circumference? Did you use the opening of the glass or the middle of the glass? Any insight is appreciated! Keep up the awesome videos!
Why do you need circumference? The images are measured by width. If you are concerned with where the image will be placed I would measure the circumference in the middle of the engravable area.
Cheers
@Breaking _BeatZ Depends on the material of the mag. You may need a transfer agent.
How long did it take?
20 minutes?
Cheers
Hey where do I find big rolls of masking tape brotha
I just order them on Amazon:
amzn.to/3AVcdx6
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild keep on keeping on bud,cheers brotha
Like your vidz
You said 100% but what's the power of your laser? Many thanks
That one is 10W
Great informative videos. My laser will be here this week and I can't wait to start using it!
Have fun!
Thanks for all the great videos! When I used the cold galvanizing compound on glass it etched the image in black. I thought it would be the white frosted look like yours. Do you have any idea why mine etched black?
Usually that means you are burning too hot or using too much CGC
@@BuildDadBuild Thanks!!
Bro please tell me you watched the Xtool d1 20w livestream..... Dude KILLER....... THEY BUILT A 20W DIODE LASER THAT YOU JUST SWAP OUT FOR THE 5 0R 10 W IN YOUR D1....
Hell yeah!
They're supposed to be shipping me one to play with!
Cheers
Hi nick
Thanks for the educational video, much appreciated.
What's the settings on your laser for engraving this glass 🤔
100% power, 12/mms
Cheers
Doorstop 🤯 Thanks Nick!
Sure thing!
Have you used the tempura paint method?
I have not. But I do have tempura paint sitting in a box in the garage...LOL
Try it pleassse
@@jamesc2212 coming soon brother…coming soon
Just ordered my X Tool D1 using your discount code! Thanks, and keep up the good work!
Awesome!
You'll love it.
Did you go to RISD?
I don’t know what that is. LOL. So I’m going to say no.
What were the settings? I think I missed it
I used the stainless steel settings. I think 100% power and 12 mm/s
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild Thanks! What do you use to take off the paint
@@carlosdiazplaza1690 lacquer thinner
Thank you for amazing work you share Nick,would you recommend running this tool in a small home with little ventilation or is it better option in workshop?
You definitely need some sort of ventilation. If you were going to run it in a home, I would suggest building or buying an enclosure with some sort of venting option.
Cheers!
@@BuildDadBuild the Louisiana hobby guy has a video on a enclosure an its cheep an pretty swaeeeet
would love a redo of this video with the new rotary from xtool.
This video is great. Only question is what do clean the glass with after engraving. Thanks
Mineral spirits or lacquer thinner works well.
What Craig said! LOL
I use lacquer thinner
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild Do you tape off the image somehow before using the lacquer thinner or are you just very careful? I didn’t see a super thick border on your image
Good Job ! You Rock! thanx for sharing
Awesome video!! Thanks Nick!!
Thanks, Justin!
Cheers
That is one janky ass setup. I love it!
BuildDadBuild, thanks for the code man, saved me 50 bucks. Nice video BTW, enjoyed the education!
SWEET!!
Dude, game changer. Thank you!
Happy to help!
Cheers!
Your videos are great and so helpful! Have you seen or tried the Sculpfun S9? I'm looking for a larger work space and deeper cuts. I wonder also if a camera can be added to any of the diode lasers? Or if you can mix and match accessories, like the rotary?
I got to use the S6...it was a decent unit. Have not had the pleasure of working with the S9.
Some of the accessories are mix and match. You just need to make sure you've got the same connectors!
Cheers
Nick, I appreciate this video, as I'm new to the laser engraving game...my girlfriend wants to personalize and give stemless champagne flutes to her bridesmaids and I think this vid will definitely help me...but my concern is the tulip shape of the glasses...they're actually pink-colored coated steel stemless flutes...so not EXACTLY like the pint glasses, but sort of.....clear as mud?
You really want to look at the RA2 Pro. It will be SUPER HELPFUL
th-cam.com/video/JrVSyI-O-mk/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
They now sell a pro version of the roatating tool. it has different clamps and adapters for any shape. Xtool RAD 2 Pro
Impressive video! Loving your channel!!🥰
Thank you!
Cheers
Why not to use rubber ring on glass bottom or sth printed to have top and bottom of glass at the same height? IMO it's way easier and more precise than door stops. Smoething like "O" = glass top, "o" = glass bottom, "o-O" - printed/engraved ring with hole that outside diameter fits "O" and inside diamiter that fits bottom "o" of glass. Even painters tape wraped few times on glass bottom should work fine :). Don't understand me wrong, I still appriciate your effort 😉. Keep it up.
I have seen those methods, and I agree with them. I feel like this is the simplest solution for those out there that don't want to print something, etc. But if you've go the way to do it, more power to ya, brother! I actually use a roll of painters tape for my 30oz tumblers!LOL
Cheers
This is the method I use, too. I was worried the differing circumferences from the top of the glass to the bottom would roll at different rates on the rotary causing skewing/shifting of the image. Have used a roll of masking tape in a pinch, too. :)