Thank you so much for this video, the photo looks great! however, I have an Ortur OML3 so I use the settings in Lightburn. Do you know what settings in Lightburn correspond with the Xtool settings you mentioned? Thanks
Great video, saw the co2 video also. However, something you said caught my ear for concern. You mentioned xtool charges you $5.00 per hour to cut or engrave. Most other engravers use Lightburn, or can use free software, is this different with xtools? Is there software online, or something else? Why the $5.00 charge?
You absolutely can cut Acrylic on a 10w diode laser - just not CLEAR - I use orange, red, black, white, and all kinds to makey 100's of keychains on the same setup you have.
I have a D1 Pro 2 10W. Set up the image following exactly what you did on imagr. Ran 70% @ 65 mm/s grayscale at 80 lines per cm. It popped like crazy quite a bit throughout the job, and left these blowout bubbles for lack of a better description. Any suggestions on where to improve? I sincerely appreciate your thorough videos. I’ve only had it a week so just kind of stumbling through the learning process. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
I tried it on cardboard and I got some cracking and popping too. No snapping though. I went back to the craft paper and it was fine. The craft paper is just a little bit fuzzy. I wonder if that absorbs more of the beam and we get less flashback. Just a thought. Hope it helps.
Why did the image ended up mirroed if you took that into account and took precautions? when you show the final shot of your work it looks mirroed, can you watch it from both sides and the effect looks the same?
LOL! Thanks for catching that! I wasn't paying attention when I took the final video and I shot the wrong side. Yes, it looks pretty much the same viewing it from both sides. Thanks! ~garrett
You two are fantastic, always make me smile with your enthusiasm, and a lovely couple to boot. Maybe think about a CNC machine too. Lasers and CNC are a great combo. CNCs can cut anything so forget the laser. On these sign, I cut on my CNC with a crappy Chinese end mill which leaves the edges relatively rough. This makes the overall effect much better believe it or not. Keep it up. Best wishes, from Australia.
Thanks Robots! That is such a great idea! I bet these things would come out some much better with a CNC. I bet it could give it more depth! I am going to ask Kim for one! LOL! Australia is AWESOME! I have wanted to come visit for 40 years! I will make it some day! Thanks Robots N That! ~garrett
Imag-r mirrored for us, but you don't need to mirror it for doing the backside of the clear acrylic. It looks pretty much the same viewing it from both sides. I wasn't paying attention and took final video of the backside, I couldn't tell and wasn't paying attention. Thanks Allen! ~garrett
I've been working on a couple and I've had a couple crack a little and I'm thinking it must be the difference in the temp of the acrylic plaque then the heat of laser beam it self..plus I need to adjust speed/power and I just have the Laser Burn program.
Might be a stupid question but......how does one run a material speed, power, lpi, dpi, test for images or bitmap engrave, raster images ....whatever they are called? Then another question....I am trying to use a P2 (I know quite a different machine) to print on these acrylic signs. For me light burn simply does not work period and I have not tried to figure out why...the question is can an image be prepared in lightburn save and opened in XCS. And then dithering...Image-r dithers the image ....lightburn lets you use pass through to by pass dithering again how does one accomplish that in XCS....Sure would like to see a video on how to do these things. XCS has a number of choices that don't seem to be able to bypassed and there is no real guide, that I can find, on how to really use XCS to print pictures successfully. You do it but I sure can't seem to duplicate it. Create a video using the P2 to create these LED Acrylic signs with XCS and Image-R (which removes the background) and detail why or why not to use choices in processesing in XCS. This comment sorta shows how confused I am about all of the software options for processing photos on acrylic and how they work. I think I am using too much power and to little speed and have no idea about lpi and dpi other than I know you can get to high and squish lines together. OK enough. I must say in conclusion I really like your videos.....except I keep ducking thinking Garret is going to give me a black eye. (smile here)
GEORGE!!! I can't help the hands! I try! We did this exact thing in a video using the P2. Maybe that one will help? Let me know! ~garrett th-cam.com/video/mq4hKlTHFSA/w-d-xo.html
i have watched this video several times....i thought it ws and OMTECH CO2....I saw that the wattage was about the same as the P2 but the problem I am having is that the P2, for me, is that I have to use XCS rather than lightburn with m P2. Light burn just doesn't work with my P2. I noted all of this in the above comment. I read on the P2 Facebook group that you can't use Imag-r with XCS because it doesn't have a pass thru feature thus will double dither the image??? The video you did using the Xtool 10W was interesting and since I own both a 10W and 20W Xtool laser I might try them. I just baught this expensive P2 and wanted to make it work there. I might add that several years back I and a friend sold many wood products at the Minnepolis Farmers Market every Saturday during the season, and it was fun and also a great deal of work. My friend passed unexpectadley 4yrs age and I am 83 ...well my age is telling. Really miss it tho". I tend to get a bit wordy...Thanks for your response and again I really enjoy your channel. @@KimandGarrettmakeit
Thank you so much for this video. I've been wanting to do these forever and needed a place to start! One thing though, I'm using the 10W M1, which is basically the same laser but I'm doing SVG files for band and venue logos instead of pictures converted for a laser. When it's engraving, the acrylic itself is cracking all over the place, about every 10 seconds it'll pop and crack. I'm guessing the difference is the vector vs bmp causing it to get too hot and crack. Any ideas on that and where to go with settings to prevent that?
since this comment has been 3 months i wonder if you could help the same is happening for me. its filled with cracks and pops I've also done a burn test and after i fond a "ok" look and use that, it does the same thing, burn and pop I've tried many thickness too Its either i can barley see it or i ruined it im using 10w TwoTrees brand
@@artman3 Lower your power. I had the same thing happen and started lowering the power 10% at a time until it reached a point that it didn't bubble and burn.
@@dismeygonzalez thanks 😊, I also found out i had to focus it on the material below, and it turned out way better . I did one of those square tests to find the right power
@@artman3 Yes in the method they use you have to focus on the material below. I didn't have any issues doing it like that. When I made one with tempera paint, it's when it bubbled and burnt. =/
Just tried this project. 75% successful, had lots of what appeared to be small bubbles. Where do you set the focus? As it engraves on the back I set the focus on the black card level, was I wrong? Thanks
Try dialing down the power and doing a test starting off at lowest power 10% and a fairly fast speed then go up to about 40. The bubbles are caused by the acrylic getting too hot
Do you have a link to the software you used to remove the background? Also, is the software to remove the background just to make your engraving image, and then you bring it into a different program, no matter which program you are using.. Like the Cricut DS?
Thanks for your help. I would like to know, the "kits" I buy come with 4mm blanks, if in testing, using the blanks that come with the kits, and you want to buy only replacement blanks are 2mm, how can one use a 2mm in a 4mm slot without too much play? TIA
my question is how are yall not burning it and making it not pop ive been trying so hard, different thickness and power test its either i can barley see it, or its burnt and bubbles are everywhere my laser says 10w on the laser itself. If i used 40% power and 3000 speed its burnt and filled with bubbles
My imager interface doesn’t have all the buttons your image has. I have a paid online subscription. Wonder why that is. Mine doesn’t have the remove background button.
So You said you engraved this with the F1? I cannot get the same settings and I watched the video over and over and than I realized it was done with the D1 LOL
Hi Folks. I apparently am doing something completely wrong. I have followed you steps just as close as I know how to do and I wind up with melted acrylic. It is roasted! It seems others are having great success, but leave it me, I am not. Ideas??
Why is the guy moving his arms in such an annoying manner? Kinda makes the video close to impossible to watch when you are no 10 year old child. But then: what 10 year old is allowed to use a diode laser on its own?
while I got a lot from the video (thank you) Garrett's rapper antic's are annoying. Kim you are simple, straight forward and a much more pleasant personality to watch. This is meant to be constructive criticism.
They were referring to how much it cost to run the X-Tool for an hour on electricity.. So they worked out that for an hours use, it's cost them $5 in electric
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
PLEASE do more videos with projects with x tool m1!!!
Thank you so much for this video, the photo looks great! however, I have an Ortur OML3 so I use the settings in Lightburn. Do you know what settings in Lightburn correspond with the Xtool settings you mentioned? Thanks
Question? Did you focus on the card stock or on the acrylic? Thanks for the tutorial!
What setting should I set? Light%? Sensitivity? I tried it with 2mm acrylic, it cracked and the image is blurry.Please give me some advice.
did you focus on the acrylic or on the cardstock?
If you lightly sand the edges with 300 grit it has a nice effect.
Great video, saw the co2 video also. However, something you said caught my ear for concern. You mentioned xtool charges you $5.00 per hour to cut or engrave. Most other engravers use Lightburn, or can use free software, is this different with xtools? Is there software online, or something else? Why the $5.00 charge?
OH NO! We were just saying that's what we charge for the engraving. We call it "Paying our laser".
Love the closing track… burns in the back, burns in the back. Lol!
Do you need to mirror the image as you are printing in the back?
Thank you for this video. I made my first acrylic picture and it turned out awesome of my late puppy Sadie.
You absolutely can cut Acrylic on a 10w diode laser - just not CLEAR - I use orange, red, black, white, and all kinds to makey 100's of keychains on the same setup you have.
Can you cut white? I thought it couldn't, white, transparent or blue are said to be a no no
Yes, agreed. We meant to say you can't cut through clear and blue. Thanks Witness! ~garrett
Me ha encantado el resultado eso lo puedo hacer también con mi M1 de 10w? Gracias.
Nice tutorial. Jst want to ask, there's no need to apply anything on the surface of the acrylic?
When putting this on the D1 I noticed a board over the honeycomb - does that help the engraving process?
LOL you guys are funny. Great job I have been wanting to try this. Take care and stay safe out there.
Thanks Michael! You too!
I have a D1 Pro 2 10W. Set up the image following exactly what you did on imagr. Ran 70% @ 65 mm/s grayscale at 80 lines per cm. It popped like crazy quite a bit throughout the job, and left these blowout bubbles for lack of a better description. Any suggestions on where to improve? I sincerely appreciate your thorough videos. I’ve only had it a week so just kind of stumbling through the learning process. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
I tried it on cardboard and I got some cracking and popping too. No snapping though. I went back to the craft paper and it was fine. The craft paper is just a little bit fuzzy. I wonder if that absorbs more of the beam and we get less flashback. Just a thought. Hope it helps.
Why did the image ended up mirroed if you took that into account and took precautions? when you show the final shot of your work it looks mirroed, can you watch it from both sides and the effect looks the same?
LOL! Thanks for catching that! I wasn't paying attention when I took the final video and I shot the wrong side. Yes, it looks pretty much the same viewing it from both sides. Thanks! ~garrett
@@KimandGarrettmakeit Thank you, that is excellent to know, you make a very helpful and great work
wonder if this can be done on the wecreat?
Have you ever used Lightburn for these signs?
Hi there! Is this a 10W laser you tried it on? I just got the M1 Ultra with the 20W and would like to try. Thank you!
How did you manage to leave the power at 70 and not crack the acrylic? I did it on mine here at 50 power and it cracked everything
I have a xtool S1 40w. Would I be able to do this product?
Also, I love your videos. You are both great!
You two are fantastic, always make me smile with your enthusiasm, and a lovely couple to boot. Maybe think about a CNC machine too. Lasers and CNC are a great combo. CNCs can cut anything so forget the laser. On these sign, I cut on my CNC with a crappy Chinese end mill which leaves the edges relatively rough. This makes the overall effect much better believe it or not. Keep it up.
Best wishes, from Australia.
Thanks Robots! That is such a great idea! I bet these things would come out some much better with a CNC. I bet it could give it more depth! I am going to ask Kim for one! LOL! Australia is AWESOME! I have wanted to come visit for 40 years! I will make it some day! Thanks Robots N That! ~garrett
Do I have to use imagr? Or can I just invert the photo?
is there a certain aryclic to get like thickness?
How long does it take to burn this, using those speed setting and fill. Mine took about 8 hours is that normal?
8 hours is too long. Check the size, recheck the speed to make sure it's mm. Check the DPI or LPI, make sure it's not over 300.
does a little over an hour seem like a right amount of time?@@KimandGarrettmakeit
What you use under the acrylic
did you use any product on the acrylic before recording, or did you just put the black cardboard behind?
Nope, we took the protective coating off and laid if on the cardstock.
@@KimandGarrettmakeit could I do this project on a xtool f1 ???
I had an issue with popping working the acrylic and it left black spots. Ideas?
What’s a good laser machine for stove covers.
Can I do this With the F1
How did you focus
hello i cant get the cracking to stop i tryed you guys settings i have the 20w wecreat any idias what to try now iam new at this thanks
When engraving on the backside of a clear material, the image would be inverted so that things like words on, say, a shirt aren't backward.
Imag-r mirrored for us, but you don't need to mirror it for doing the backside of the clear acrylic. It looks pretty much the same viewing it from both sides. I wasn't paying attention and took final video of the backside, I couldn't tell and wasn't paying attention. Thanks Allen! ~garrett
Have to find a way to color the clear acrylic to manipulate the M1 to do this
With the diode can you cut the pastel opaque acrylic? I’m reading you can’t and that was really disappointing
Can I easily cut and engrave plexiglass and acrylic plates with the xtool d1 pro laser?
No only co2 diodes can't do transparent acrylic nor anything transparent
my pictures do not look so good , they are too bright and loosing details... what should i adjust ? laaser power down?
Going to try this. Thank you so much. Liked and Subscribed!
Does your acrylic pop when you're engraving it
I don't think so!
@@KimandGarrettmakeit Thanks I must have bought the wrong acrylic from Amazon.
I have issues with it popping / cracking, I keep trying it on my m1 though
I've been working on a couple and I've had a couple crack a little and I'm thinking it must be the difference in the temp of the acrylic plaque then the heat of laser beam it self..plus I need to adjust speed/power and I just have the Laser Burn program.
Weird it cracks in the m1 for me but does fine on my d1 40w
I have been wanting to try this thanks
Might be a stupid question but......how does one run a material speed, power, lpi, dpi, test for images or bitmap engrave, raster images ....whatever they are called? Then another question....I am trying to use a P2 (I know quite a different machine) to print on these acrylic signs. For me light burn simply does not work period and I have not tried to figure out why...the question is can an image be prepared in lightburn save and opened in XCS. And then dithering...Image-r dithers the image ....lightburn lets you use pass through to by pass dithering again how does one accomplish that in XCS....Sure would like to see a video on how to do these things. XCS has a number of choices that don't seem to be able to bypassed and there is no real guide, that I can find, on how to really use XCS to print pictures successfully. You do it but I sure can't seem to duplicate it. Create a video using the P2 to create these LED Acrylic signs with XCS and Image-R (which removes the background) and detail why or why not to use choices in processesing in XCS. This comment sorta shows how confused I am about all of the software options for processing photos on acrylic and how they work. I think I am using too much power and to little speed and have no idea about lpi and dpi other than I know you can get to high and squish lines together. OK enough. I must say in conclusion I really like your videos.....except I keep ducking thinking Garret is going to give me a black eye. (smile here)
GEORGE!!! I can't help the hands! I try! We did this exact thing in a video using the P2. Maybe that one will help? Let me know! ~garrett th-cam.com/video/mq4hKlTHFSA/w-d-xo.html
i have watched this video several times....i thought it ws and OMTECH CO2....I saw that the wattage was about the same as the P2 but the problem I am having is that the P2, for me, is that I have to use XCS rather than lightburn with m P2. Light burn just doesn't work with my P2. I noted all of this in the above comment. I read on the P2 Facebook group that you can't use Imag-r with XCS because it doesn't have a pass thru feature thus will double dither the image??? The video you did using the Xtool 10W was interesting and since I own both a 10W and 20W Xtool laser I might try them. I just baught this expensive P2 and wanted to make it work there. I might add that several years back I and a friend sold many wood products at the Minnepolis Farmers Market every Saturday during the season, and it was fun and also a great deal of work. My friend passed unexpectadley 4yrs age and I am 83 ...well my age is telling. Really miss it tho". I tend to get a bit wordy...Thanks for your response and again I really enjoy your channel. @@KimandGarrettmakeit
Where do you get the led stand from
Just getting cracks and all results i have where black. Can't remove it
I tried black card stock under clear acrylic on my d1pro 20w and it permanently leaves the soot behind..
Thank you so much for this video. I've been wanting to do these forever and needed a place to start! One thing though, I'm using the 10W M1, which is basically the same laser but I'm doing SVG files for band and venue logos instead of pictures converted for a laser. When it's engraving, the acrylic itself is cracking all over the place, about every 10 seconds it'll pop and crack. I'm guessing the difference is the vector vs bmp causing it to get too hot and crack. Any ideas on that and where to go with settings to prevent that?
since this comment has been 3 months i wonder if you could help
the same is happening for me. its filled with cracks and pops
I've also done a burn test and after i fond a "ok" look and use that, it does the same thing, burn and pop
I've tried many thickness too
Its either i can barley see it or i ruined it
im using 10w TwoTrees brand
@@artman3 I gave up using my 10w M1. I've also got an Atezr L2 36w machine and haven't had any problems getting them made with that.
@@artman3 Lower your power. I had the same thing happen and started lowering the power 10% at a time until it reached a point that it didn't bubble and burn.
@@dismeygonzalez
thanks 😊, I also found out i had to focus it on the material below, and it turned out way better
.
I did one of those square tests to find the right power
@@artman3 Yes in the method they use you have to focus on the material below. I didn't have any issues doing it like that. When I made one with tempera paint, it's when it bubbled and burnt. =/
Can do it with my F1???
Would you guys do a video on how to engrave a tumbler on your xTool laser? Pretty please. ;o) I love your videos!!
Ooh we can do that!
Just tried this project. 75% successful, had lots of what appeared to be small bubbles. Where do you set the focus? As it engraves on the back I set the focus on the black card level, was I wrong? Thanks
Try dialing down the power and doing a test starting off at lowest power 10% and a fairly fast speed then go up to about 40. The bubbles are caused by the acrylic getting too hot
Since the laser is burning at the back of acrylic I would focus on the black paper
is ist also possible to use a black metal plate under the acryl? some one paint it black, you use a paper, but why not a metal plate?
You can use a black matte metal plate. Just know that it will be engraved upon.
Do you have a link to the software you used to remove the background?
Also, is the software to remove the background just to make your engraving image, and then you bring it into a different program, no matter which program you are using.. Like the Cricut DS?
Ooops! Here is the link imag-r.com/ . Yes, I think it will work for any program after you remove the background. Thanks Carol! ~garrett
Super impressive 🇦🇺
Thanks for your help. I would like to know, the "kits" I buy come with 4mm blanks, if in testing, using the blanks that come with the kits, and you want to buy only replacement blanks are 2mm, how can one use a 2mm in a 4mm slot without too much play? TIA
Superglue a strip of the 2mm acrylic to the tab of the 2mm piece, making it 4mm thick.
Great job thanks
my question is how are yall not burning it and making it not pop
ive been trying so hard, different thickness and power test
its either i can barley see it, or its burnt and bubbles are everywhere
my laser says 10w on the laser itself. If i used 40% power and 3000 speed its burnt and filled with bubbles
Great job you two. I did notice a mistake though. Somehow it reversed the names on your t-shits and it's backwards. ???
Question, I noticed that your name was Mirrored on your shirt , why??
For the videos probably
Have you made a video with the xtool laser on metal with a photo?
My imager interface doesn’t have all the buttons your image has. I have a paid online subscription. Wonder why that is. Mine doesn’t have the remove background button.
you have to remove bcground first it is in the center of the top menu...
Dammit I have the same 10w model bit is not working for me. I could barely see it
okay you wore me down. I sub'd! (Yes, liked it also)
I have the 10w and my acrylic cracked with those setting 😅
Sing it Kim 😂
😂😂😂😂 I promised her NO ONE would watch that far!!! 😂😂😂😂 Thanks Jessica! that made my day! ~garrett
@@KimandGarrettmakeit 🤣🤣 welcome
So You said you engraved this with the F1? I cannot get the same settings and I watched the video over and over and than I realized it was done with the D1 LOL
Hi Folks. I apparently am doing something completely wrong. I have followed you steps just as close as I know how to do and I wind up with melted acrylic. It is roasted! It seems others are having great success, but leave it me, I am not. Ideas??
Are you using cast acrylic? It's gotta be cast, unless your using the IF Laser.
👏👏👏👏👏
can you please make a video on a 5 watt diode laser on a clear acrylic..please..im really having a hard time getting the settings for this one..😢😢😢
We don't have a 5 watt, but in theory you would just double the power or do half the speed. Try 70 power / 50 speed.
Thank you..
I just upgraded to a 20w laser module, can you please tell me the proper settings to engrave clear acrylic?
You should have flipped your image horizontally so your names aren't backwards. Good tutorial though. I learned a lot.
I had a bad experience with the xtool d1 laser I ordered. Now I have to find me another laser.
Maybe it's time to go BIG? ~garrett
@@KimandGarrettmakeit yes. I want the omtech
Brasil
Distracted by the arm waving. Annoying.
10:24 it's backwards!
Why is the guy moving his arms in such an annoying manner? Kinda makes the video close to impossible to watch when you are no 10 year old child. But then: what 10 year old is allowed to use a diode laser on its own?
while I got a lot from the video (thank you) Garrett's rapper antic's are annoying. Kim you are simple, straight forward and a much more pleasant personality to watch. This is meant to be constructive criticism.
You’re exactly right. Very annoying.
I’m trying to figure out what makes his antics rapper antics? Did he say that’s what he was doing? I’m confused.
I bet Garret is swinging one hell of a hammer because Kim is way too hot for you.
Dude..just keep your arms down. You're not 5. Insanely distracting.
ok I read this wrong ! :) :)
So, if I understand correctly, you can maybe make five dollars profit on each of these that doesn't seem like much
What exactly did you mean that X-TOOL charged you $5 an hour. Don't you have an X-TOOL? They charge you $5 an hour for using your own X-TOOL.
Same question here.
They were referring to how much it cost to run the X-Tool for an hour on electricity.. So they worked out that for an hours use, it's cost them $5 in electric
Pretty funny you did not invert it so your names would not be backwards LOL
What the hell is wrong with him...
és muito malabarista, falam fala e não dizem nada
Its not worth is anymore. Everyone is buying them.
This laser can engrave acrylic mirror backside?