How to Fix N63 650i Limp Mode / Vacuum Line Replacement N63TU Wastegate Pressure Converter DIY 550i
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ต.ค. 2024
- Fixing a BMW F06 650i gran coupe suffering from limp mode due to cracked vacuum hose causing a vacuum leak from the pressure converter to the wastgates (N63TU engine). This DIY guide will show you how to fix boost leak issues for F10 550i and F12 650i with the N63 4.4L V8 twin turbo engine as well. The process involves removing the radiator fan, inlets, and secondary coolant tank to access the boost solenoids and replace the brittle plastic vacuum lines with durable yet cheaper silicone vacuum lines.
Error codes causing drivetrain malfunction:
120708
Boost pressure control 2, plausibility: pressure too low
108F11
(intake air system 2: Suspected leak between turbocharger and intake valves
120908
Boost pressure control 2: Shutdown as a subsequent
reaction
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#650i #550i #bmwf10 #commissionsearned - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
N63 O2 sensor replacement: th-cam.com/video/Cchr6CTXlIo/w-d-xo.html
You the man, bro. This is why a lot of ppl hate bmws but I’m proud of those that work on their beemers.
I appreciate your kind words Mike! Much respect to you as well. The DIY community is keeping the Bimmers alive 👍
What a great tutorial! Very detailed instructions. Well done Sal! The 650i engine compartment looks to be packed pretty tightly! Almost like a puzzle, where different shapes of different parts were designed to fit together in only one way to fit the shape of the car. That fan assembly with the shroud looks like it really couldn't get any tighter of a fit either! That was quite the process to change those 2 lines. No wonder why they get brittle and fail.....it's buried in there in between with so much heat! The new routing of the lines might even make them last a bit longer since it's not down low and routed in between? You're really calm, cool and collected as you took it step by step. If I made this video, you probably couldn't publish it unless you bleeped out a bunch of things! Hahaha! I was hoping to see a rematch at the end with the Honda, AFTER the BMW's repair?? :D
Hey Alex! Thanks again for the insightful comment. You’re right, the n63tu engine is very condensed and every single part is perfectly fit. The use of brittle plastic mixed with high heat from the proximity of the turbos explains why this engine seems to have many nagging issues. Can’t wait to do a Dyno video of this car and the M3 to see how much power they make to the wheels 😊
@@Sals_Garage Sal, you are one incredible person!
@@Sals_Garage That dyno video of your M3 and this 650i will be a cool one to see!
@@Alex-lx2pg Yea! Excited for that one.
Informative and helpful content, hubby! 👏🏼☺️
Thank you so much wifey! Love you 😘
Great instruction video but you didn't need to remove all that. Really all you needed to do was remove the intake, the expansion tank, and take the bolts off the left cooler to make it easier
Thanks for sharing. You’re probably right, not too many guides on how to do it so we may have went overboard 😆
Where are the boost solenoids Control 2 located at? Also where would the charging pressure control 2 be located at? I can’t find this information anywhere and at this point I might have to find out by opening up my car. Lastly what does a charging pressure sensor look like because I’m getting these same codes thatre popping up on this video
@@patrickhernandez1909 sorry I don’t know since it’s not my car. My friend sold it a long time ago. Good luck
Be advised: The clips should always be engaged all the way closed before attaching any hose or you will risk missing the notch. The hoses are designed specifically to automatically lock upon insertion if the clips are closed and not pulled up. So do not attach hoses with the metal clips pulled up. There is no need to push any metal clip down after attaching hoses since they are designed to do that automatically.
Thanks for sharing
First, Is there enough room after everything you removed to replace the boost control modules without removing the passenger charge cooler? Second, is there enough room to replace the water pump thermostat? Lastly, if I bought the factory vacuum lines that go the the wastegate actuators, can they be threaded back through without removing the alternator?
You can replace one of the boost solenoids, but the other is hard to access without removing the intercooler. Water pump thermostat there should be enough room. For the factory vacuum lines in order to use the stock routing you need to remove more things. I instead chose to route them my own way and fasten them with zip ties.
Hello I have a 740li 2011 the auto mechanic wants $9k to put in new turbos. They got a hard code to come up 120308. Problem I am having is rough idle and drive train comes up when I give power sometimes. So of course not going to do the $9k yet. I had them do a smoke test and it had no leaks. I did my own research and decided to try somethings myself. I replaced two boost pressure solenoids and broke two of my nails. The hard part was getting the lower screws off. The car does run better, but I am still getting the drive train malfunction to come up, but I think I have to erase the code to see what other code may come up. Now I need to erase the codes. I notice you had a phone app, what reader do you have to read hard codes and erase them?
Bimmergeeks Protools for android. Use a cheap android tablet if you don’t have an android phone.
i’m hoping this is my issue .. currently experiencing the same problem only at high rpm .. Similar codes.. Im going to smoke test the system
I hope you can figure it out soon. Smoke test video: th-cam.com/video/DGaj-F2-crY/w-d-xo.html
Awesome video. I'm about to tackle this DIY myself for same codes on both banks. Can u tell me what diameter hose I need??
Hey! Thanks for the comment. Sorry I cannot remember the size of the hose, I literally just brought it to autozone and tested which hose fit. Good luck.
Did this solve a "low boost pressure" fault?
@@j.crisman7237 yep
So there's a 3rd nipple on the back or was it just two I was replacing the vacume lines and now I found a 3rd hose and I'm freaking out I'm replacing the turbos ATM
I honestly can’t remember. This is my friends old car. Good luck 👍
nice work Sal! Really appreciate your help
Anytime Carl! Can't wait to install the downpipes soon!
Thank you that was enjoyable
Thanks for the comment! Glad it was helpful 🙏
Hi Sal,
I have a 2011 550i Non Tu
Codes are 120708 & 120308
Drivetrain Malfunction
Help Needed
Sorry I don’t know a lot about this engine. Good luck and hope you can get it fixed soon.
Man I’m dealing with this issue rn with upgraded turbos and the dealer put in new vacuum lines I’m struggling
I hope you can fix it soon. Good luck 👍
Good job buddy!
Thanks for the comment 🙏
Can u help me with a p0172 code no check engine light 650 I 2017
@@kingsolo5928 sorry, this is my friend’s car so I don’t have a lot of info. Good luck 👍
👍🏻
Thanks brotha
How did you get the transfer cooler bracket to move after removing the screw holding it?
I removed the screws holding the bracket and the tank itself involved removing the hoses. Good luck 👍
@@Sals_Garage meant to type transmission cooler bracket but I got it. Thanks chief!. Pressing onward.
Good to know. 👍
How’d you remove all 4 screws with no room
Which auto wrachet are you using?
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Shacking my head I can’t believe I bought this peice of junk that’s extremely hard to work on at that
It’s still a great car, but the build quality with all the brittle plastics and heat that builds up from the turbos are unfortunate.