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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- BMW X5 E70 XDrive50i Turbo oil line replacement
& Oil return cover replacement.
One of the known issue in the N63 V8 engines. Temperature under the turbos get too high and the oil return cover gasket fails under the heat shields. In some cases the heat also causes oil to "boil" inside the return lines clogging them.
Same problem with 550i, 650i, 750i and X6 50i with V8 engine.
Symptoms: Oil leaking under the car between engine and transmission. There is a drain hole above the the rear main seal, letting leaked oil drip down from the V-valley.
(Often misdiagnosed to be leaking rear main seal or upper oil pan gasket.)
======= Part list: =========
11427599233 Oil feed pipe
11427577010 Oil Return line bank1
11427577011 Oil Return line bank2
11657577016 OIL RETURN COVER (with gasket)
11428624158 Gasket Oil Return line (2 needed)
07119963072 Gasket Oil feed line (4 needed)
07119963201 Gasket ring Turbo coolant line (8 needed)
11627614095 Gasket Exhaust Maniford (2 needed)
11627576991 Gasket between manifold and Turbo (2 needed)
18307553601 Gasket between Turbo and Catalysator (2 needed)
![[Watch Party] RoV Pro League 2024 Winter | with Moowan ( Bacon Time Vs Talon )](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CCEDhu6dPN8/mqdefault.jpg)
You remodel bathrooms that look showroom quality and in your spare time you rebuild BMW engines. Dude! You are my hero..
I love the Modern Talking mix to go along with this disassembly and repair. And so thorough and precise in cleaning everything up prior to reinstall!
u hot tho
Perfect I got it down! After 1 million pauses and stops. 😂. Great Job! Bro.
Awesome video! Thank your for showing. Maybe it will help someone reading this: Check your Turbo auxillary coolant pump, to make sure it's running while and after (~25min) you run the engine. That typically fails and leaves the turbos hot, oil hot, and allows the oil to boil and clog the oil lines. It throws codes, so check that, but doesn't throw a check engine light so may go years unnoticed, so with heat soak you'll get cooked oil and clogged lines. To check that coolant is flowing after the engine is off, just touch the left hose that leads to the pump, you should feel vibrations from the impeller and turbulent coolant flow. The feed line to the turbos also has some vibrations, but less. You might be able to feel it during engine running, but will be difficult. I put an ammeter on mine to check it, but that takes some wiring mods. Hope that helps some people out! I've had two pumps go in 15,000 miles, so beware, it's a weak part prone to failure, and can lead to clogged oil lines and Turbo failure. It has also been the part that lead to some recalls. (Updated: I show how to check in my last post)
David.
Thanks for your good comment! Definitely worth to check the codes and AUX pump operation every once in a while
Good advice. Another simple thing you can do is to avoid driving hard the last few minutes before you switch the engine off, and to let the engine idle about 30 to 60 seconds before you do so. This just helps excess heat to dissipate. I learnt this with military turbo engines.
@@roadstardelta Great advice!! It's always very hard to refrain from going hard, but I'll definitely do that! It's kinda like the turbo timer on the old cars.
Definitely worth doing to drop the temps and increase turbo lifetime.
Thanks for the advice! Myself and everyone else who reads that and idle to cool down the turbos will benefit!
Cheers,
David.
@@roadstardelta Excellent advice. I got 260K miles from Mitsubishi Mirage Turbo engine with original turbo before selling to collector, no oil consumption, great power by 3K (synthetic) mile oil changes and allowing the turbo to cool down before shutoff.
Helo brother.
My engine n63 f02 110000 km ..
Is very hot overheat engine temp...
Maybe whats the problem? Thank you
Very satisfying to see how you cleaned the engine before installing the new parts, a clean engine is a happy engine 😃
Good job! Refreshing to see someone else who actually cares about keeping stuff clean.
In the automotive world, a job is only as good as it is clean!
Also really nice editing :)
We bought a 2010 X5 N63 motor, motor needing service related repairs 100k kms. I will be removing the whole thing to do a full re seal and anything that they are known for. Probably the piston rings too. This video has given me so much clarity, I really appreciate it.
I enjoyed that first song way more than I care to admit. Had my dad bod cutting shapes like Terry Crews in White Chicks for 4 minutes and 47 seconds Thanks for that.
I appreciate these videos, my mom went ahead and purchased a 2010 750i recently and after i looked at all it problems im gonna have to dig in . Not my first rodeo but never seen or touched an N63 so every bit of info helps. The car is actually pristine with only 13k miles but im still going to get into it to try and remedy the common issues as well as give it a little more umph . My mom doesnt drive hard at all so it wont make much of a difference with the extra power, but I find it necessary to battle the extreme heat due to this terrible engineering nightmare lol.
That mileage is crazy, congrats to her, how’s it been?
@@Kyronsk8 it rides like a dream , feels like a brand new car despite the age of the vehicle . Currently have it in the garage as it’s getting some upgrades .
ARM intake
VRSF downpipes
84degree thermostat
Oil Cooler valve upgrade
JB4 Tuner
Downpipes, turbos , intercoolers and manifolds are all being Cerakoted . I’m not really doing this for the power as it is an older lady that will be driving it , but more so to keep cooler temps to save the motor from the typical problems caused by stupid engineering decisions lol .
More than ready to beat the brutal southern humidity and have peace of mind it won’t start dumping oil .
@@JAK1981 lmao I can see how all those upgrades can help with the cooling, but the jb4? Yeah I wonder how you convinced her to do that 😂😂😂
@@Kyronsk8 well I need the JB4 to tune everything together so it runs right , otherwise without a proper tune it could cause issues and run rich .
As the car will have power capabilities it can be tuned to just run smooth . Besides as fickle as these transmissions can be it won’t be at the track or racing on the freeway lol.
@@Kyronsk8 besides don’t underestimate my mom , she can drive haha. Back in the day I had a 500whp STi and she handled that just fine .
The song “Little old lady from Pasadena” perfectly describes her 🤣
Came for the music, stayed for the bmw
Came for de miusic
TK-R I respect your skills and knowledge. Thanks for sharing!
That is a lot of work for just replacing the oil lines! Holy cow!
Yes it is. And it's lots of work to replace anything in BMW 50i engines. It is so packed under the hood and tear down takes hours.
What's a job like that run?
avoid 50i... notorious
Actually it's very easy compared to turbos mounted between the engine block and the wheel well as some might even consider dropping the subframe. It takes some time for the N63, but it's very, very accessible!
I'm definetely thinking more about a 550i!
Thanks for the video!
Nice repair of a badass engine! Considering one of these to pull my car to the track? When it's tuned, seems like it runs great!
Total respect to your work and to the video quality and edit.
Thanks!
Thanx for making this video. I have a 2011 BMW F10 550i xdrive. was quoted $2300 to replace leaking turbo coolant lines and the coolant hose behind the alternator which has a plastic swing y connector that cracked open. When i did the break down i found so much oil in the "valley" of the engine. This vehicle is pretty easy to work on once you get familiar with it. Im sure to address the oil leak alone would have jumped the price from $2300 to $3500 or more. All parts purchased I spent $850. Sometimes these mechanics break parts when disassembling and reassembling. They have a schedule. Also when its thier property people tend to be less careful or concerned. Two cracked crank case breather pipes, intakes for the turbos cracked at bolt fitting, y pipe cracked, all turbo lines leaking, and all parts you listed in your video for the oil leaks. Again thanx for such a great video.
Glad the video was helpful!
Did this issues caused smoke coming out your tail pipes ?
Awesome video. Perfect angle to see most everything required. Thx for making this !
Damn...I keep watching this video over and over again. Hypnotic.
You did a hell of a job! Left everything squeaky clean! I'm the same way...
Signed a fellow German auto tech
Just got done doing that to my ActiveHybrid 7. No alternator on that car so saved a bit of time, but what a pain overall!
Clean neat and professionally done👍🏻
======= Part list here: =========
11427599233 Oil feed pipe
11427577010 Oil Return line bank1
11427577011 Oil Return line bank2
11657577016 OIL RETURN COVER (with gasket)
11428624158 Gasket Oil Return line (2 needed)
07119963072 Gasket Oil feed line (4 needed)
07119963201 Gasket ring Turbo coolant line (8 needed)
11627614095 Gasket Exhaust Maniford (2 needed)
11627576991 Gasket between manifold and Turbo (2 needed)
18307553601 Gasket between Turbo and Catalysator (2 needed)
I have an X6 with the n63, I had changed out majority of plastic tees with metal ones but retained factory hose. When I’m close to doing my change, I pour 1/4 btl of sea foam directly into turbo feed line. Helps to break down sludge buildup in the line and turbo inlet.
Inspirational! Just completed similar project and this video was very helpful
I'm glad if this video helps!
I did this job on my X6 and I have mad respect for the uploader and anyone else who attempts this. Took me a month and a half on evenings and weekends... horrible job... absolutely horrible. I still dont know how he got the headers off without removing the downpipes. I removed them to get to back bolts (also a pain in the butt).
The catalysts are secured to the rear of the cylinder head with two 6mm allen bit bolts per side, plus the 3 bigger 7mm allen bit bolts up top. Once you release the band clamp around the turbos, along with aforementioned bolts, the catalysts will have significant end play due to the flex pipe design. Leaves you plenty of room to get your hands under and remove the manifolds.
That said, the official repair info calls to remove the cats, and I myself do it this way because I am very anal about cleanliness and the cats obstruct in the cleaning process. Catalyst removal only adds about another 30 minutes to the job believe it or not. You have to remove most of the same components to remove the turbos anyway. Catalyst removal only adds the need to remove the vacuum pump, the bottom rear splash shield (which should be removed regardless), and undo the exhaust collectors.
Nothing pairs better with German car repair than Modern Talking eurodance remix :D
Well okay, you can mute the music!
T K-R music is awesome. Good taste. Keep up the good videos.
The music is cool
Cool
I loved Modern Talking 80S -90S.
I.......will not mute the music
im impressed how do you remember were everything goes? wow. great job. I have a 2010
You work very fast
Came here to check how much work is involved in fixing this, and stayed for this sweet background music.
Thank you so much! this answered a question for me, as I'm getting prepared to upgrade my turbo's on my 550i to Pure Stage 1, and also will replace the oil and oil return lines, etc. (no oil leaking though but might as well since I'm opening her up) The procedure was telling me to remove the cats, and I couldn't figure out why it was needed, if only removing the turbos.
it is so cool to hear Modern Talking and fix Ultimated Driving Machine. Right.
I want to say that is amazing work, I am very impressed, considering how the BMW Dealership ruined my 2009 750i but not putting AntiFreeze in my after they did a factory recall work. They provide the car back to me dirty, no antivirus, and now I have found that they did not connect the left turbo charger correctly. The even charged me $1,846.88 to replace the turbo charger coolant lines. If anyone is wondering who this company is, it's BMW of Fairfax, in Fairfax Virginia.
Thanks. And sorry to hear. It's a complicated engine to work with and sometimes even the BMW mechanics fail to do the job. (Usually because they are in a hurry..)
Hope you got your 750i fixed and can still enjoy driving it!
godammn this was both very useful for me and your music selection is bang on cracking.
I just completed this repair. Took roughly 20-25 hours over about 2 weeks with 2 of us. Parts came to roughly $550. This completely removed the burning oil smell coming in through the vents. I've yet to see how much difference it will make in general for the vehicle consuming oil
What part did you order? I have the same issue and smoke coming out the exhaust too
Have you seen a difference yet ?
@@ValuableShort it didn't completely fix the smell. Sold the car.
This seems way easier than my E53 valley pan was. I am considering a 750i with this motor. CCP and trans recall completed.
As someone who owns a 750i xdrivre, make sure to only get the G12 chassis an above. So anything MY 2016 - after. These cars have the N63TU2 engine variant, which eliminates all the oil and leak problems of the past
what a nightmare. I'm dealing with this right now. I was able to remove both heads without removing the engine.
Warranty will pay this guy 4hrs for all his work. Because they did the entire job with the engine out of the vehicle.
This engine is the Mother of heat
I wouldn't even put those turbos back on. You can get aftermarket turbos that are better. That engine looks really cool.
Came here for the procedure, stayed for the soundtrack 😎
Awesome video. I know what I'll be doing this spring :) Do you have a part list to go with this repair?
11427599233 Oil feed pipe
11427577010 Oil Return line bank1
11427577011 Oil Return line bank2
11657577016 OIL RETURN COVER (with gasket)
11428624158 Gasket Oil Return line (2 needed)
07119963072 Gasket Oil feed line (4 needed)
07119963201 Gasket ring Turbo coolant line (8 needed)
11627614095 Gasket Exhaust Maniford (2 needed)
11627576991 Gasket between manifold and Turbo (2 needed)
18307553601 Gasket between Turbo and Catalysator (2 needed)
@@TKR-videos you're the man. Thank you very much
Btw. I'm playing this song at my wedding 😁
@@TKR-videos Im having oil leaks by the coolant area and maybe some other area, bad smell in the Ac vent and smoke coming out in the muffler and I can see some oil by the muffler tips as well....is this repair you did will fix it or I need to do replace more stuff?
@@timlawz the problem is
It's a BMW 😅
I have the exact car. 2013 x5 xdrive50i n63. I’m trying to tackle this on my own and haven’t talked myself into it yet. I definitely want to replace all the oil and coolant lines and turbo return housing. I know there is a ton of oil buildup. There has to be. My car has 120000 and runs like a clock
well done from a very happy former BM-troubleYOU owner........................never again
Very professional!
Great video brother
I need you to do this to my n63tu, you are wizard in tour craft, I can only dream of doing this to my own car
Amazing video, I think I have a semi problem on my 2011 BMW X5 xdrive50i 😟
I also have a 2011 50i. Did you ever find out if this was your issue? If so did you repair yourself?
Yes I do it
@@philipshroyer6522 yes I do it
estás carbón, hermano. that´s such an excellent work, you do. amazing. thanks for sharing.
After watching this I don't think I'll be getting a local x6 2009 50i. I liked it and it has great service records but at 130k I don't want this kinda headache. I have years of experience as a mechanic but this is to much 😂
the music somehow goes good with this.
German music and German car. There is something weird how they match 👍
Amazing Job bro.. Love the music!!!
GODDAM!! I'm shaking after watching this... wow!
Lol, me too
Pull yourself together
I severely need to do this on my f15…. I thought it was my valve stem seals causing oil consumption but pretty sure it’s one of the turbos
Mad skills to do this wow good work
Wow that’s amazing mate. It literally took me 1 week just to change the valve cover gaskets. Hats off to you . Am currently trying to remove the oxygen sensor from the catalytic converters and that’s a pain
Just replaced the alternator -day one..(2011 550i m sport) -what a pain in the ass!!! Day two- pain in the ass. Replaced all turbo cooling lines and still have to tidy up some things before I can hit the road. 550i on second engine, under warranty with 16000 miles on new engine now, but the dealer uses all old components off old engine. The hoses were leaking slowly at the clamps and dripped on the alternator and burned it out. Otherwise the car is fine. 58k total miles on the body....The only easy thing on this vehicle is replacing the coil over plugs and spark plugs, brake pads.
m marmrcz reused the old hoses? I would cry foul immediately. That is a no no procedure. Not BMW approved. They are dumb, but not that dumb.
Please help me in removing the clamp which bolts exhaust to turbo. Did spend almost the whole day removing 1 of them i.e. driver side. Also once we remove the clamps and the t30 s to oil return line is anything else needed to remove the turbos?
🤯 amazing!
thank you for the video. mileage? approx how long it took you? (1st time?)
I imagine this can happen on S63s as well
So how much would that labor and parts cost?
great video thanks
Bardzo dobra robota 👍👍
Mad respect..wish if you could do mines. I dont know why dem coolant lines leak like that. Gonna change out mine again 3rd time
Muy buen video de verdad gracias, me fue muy útil para reparar un X6 M del 2011. Mil gracias por tan buen contenido
Tenias algun problema con el vehiculo antes de hacer esta reparacion??
Great video. It'd be nice to list all of the parts that need to be replaced during that process
Parts list is in my first comment on this video
At 1:54 would that also be a good time to clean out the intake valves which will be full of carbon buildup?
those are exhaust valves. carbon would have been burned off
This engine uses an "inboard" exhaust configuration. On this setup the exhaust and intake locations are flipped. The intake manifolds are located on the sides of the engine under the valve covers, and the exhaust manifold is located up top in the valley pan. They did this to save space. There is no room to mount twin turbos in the conventional format. The Ford PS 6.7 also uses this configuration.
As for carbon blasting the intake tracts, well on the N63, one does that through the wheel wells.
Tearing one down now and its on the tougher/ involved setups especially with that hot vee and coolant lines and I've been on main line at dealers and indys. Once you try you get it.
Btw.. does the poster know if a rebuild in turbos was needed for the mileage the car had? Thanks.
I didn't open the turbos. I'm sure there were some burnt oil residue so cleaning the oil channels might have been good idea. Anyway no play in axels and wheels were spinning smooth.
You are good!! Thank you for this video
Amazing work!!
Thankful I don’t have to dig this deep into my clients car. Just did an oil pan though. 😂
How the hell did you managed to get to the bolt of the clamp thats connecting the turbo to the exhaust manifold???
Thanks for the video. My coolant is low, I cannot see the leak, but I can hear leak after the engine is off. This video definitely help. Do you have the information on torque spec?
Great work!
I love the design, but obviously a maintenance nightmare.
too much heat.
Terrible design, and no excuse for it. Mercedes TT V8 doesn't see half the problems these do.
Great job!! Can I ask what did you use for cleaning?
I think I used Armor All Wheel cleaner. It's goof stuff and cleans everything!
amzn.to/2YKtjvx
wish he did something about that by turbo y vent hose. heat shield for the hose and the plastic y.
How many hours was this approximately? I am considering upgrading the turbos on my G15 but not sure it's worthwhile.
Good video make more please
now i know why this is such an expensive job :D ")
I wish this engine came with less plastic and better set up for cooling.
I wanted one of these so bad but all I find on the internet is problem after problem with these cars I feel like as soon as I buy one with 50,000 miles it's going to break 2000 later
Looks easy
I also would recommend Thermal Cooling sleeves on the hoses.. Those engines get hot as well
www.summitracing.com/parts/the-18051?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-thermo-tec&gclid=Cj0KCQiAxZPgBRCmARIsAOrTHSYq1ikO8Ilok-NTF4r0j2DSHUABhUTcltzqmUWlJcwMP_Bdy4qO8_YaAmR2EALw_wcB
Useless bud. Tried it, still happens. This needs to be done on these engines every 60k miles.
T K-R
Incredible job !!!!!
good video like the music !!!
hi there what'd use to take off the stud bolts under the catalytic convertors? what size socket/wrench combo?
I was considering a 2009+ 750i or lexus ls460,thank god i didnt get the bmw nothing but problems on those v8s.
I have a 550i 2013 change the pcv valves because they had oil in them change oil to 5w-40 and it still smokes no check engine light on
look like i am doing this soonif it is 8K job, the seals on my turbos are leaking.
How did u get that bottom bolt off of the left turbo Ive been trying everything and can't get it it's the ones to the oil feed on the bottom
Great video 👍
Any chance I can get a little bit slower version with audio instructions? I’ve had two shops do thousands do dollars of work for a coolant leak they can’t fix so I’m going to do this myself what you did in this awesome video! I need your help pretty please!!!!
Awesome
I need to do this to my E70. I think I could do about 65% of this (with three weeks in the evening), but would need some support for the other 35%. Wonder how I could find a good advisor/pro that could fill in the gap.
Now they have an engine replacement program with manufacture’s reimbursement up to 95%.
Depending on mileage determines the %.
how do I check to see if my car qualifies
The heat shield with oxygen sensors the bolts at back of heat shield rusted any advice on how to remove them? Also how hard was it to remove turbos and exhaust manifold pls I see in video you tried to reach in for some time before the exhaust manifold came off .... if you can clarify how hard to remove these thanks
good job and good song
Hello for changing exhaust manifold seal we need to remove alternator like in your video or not ?
Thanks
How long did it actually take to do this, Awesome video and music!!!!
It takes a full day to do properly
And that's if you know what you're doing.
Can you tell me how long did it take you!?!!
Neat video! What were the symptoms that suggested the oil return lines were so clogged? What's your opinion on the long-term reliability of the N63, given the rash of issues related to turbos, injectors, batteries, and valve-stem seals?
I didn't have any symptoms on turbo oil lines. I believe the oil was still flowing through and they got completely clogged only when removed, twisted and splitter apart.
I wouldn't recommend early years N63 to anyone who doesn't like to DIY. Newer 2014--> N63TU is more reliable because improved design. These are crazy expensive to maintain if you take them to shop because engine bay is so full that it takes hours of labor to replace anything. Valve stem seals are the biggest problem after 70k miles. Injectors are under BMW warranty for 10years.
Every owner should keep their battery fully charged and replace it often enough. Battery power is needed for the turbo coolant pump, which MUST run after every engine shutdown for 10 minutes or everything will be cooked under the hood.
Thanks for the reply. When you say "turbo coolant pump," does that refer to the electronic water pump? The N54 (in my 335i) has that as well, which runs after car shut-off.
N63 V8 has 2 coolant pumps. The main one is belt driven, and the auxiliary pump is electric. The electric pump runs 10-30min after shut off to cool down turbos.
mrmax1984 I think he is referring to n63’s intercooler’s water pump system. The n54 is air to air cooled, the n63 is water to air cooled . Thank you for the info TK-R!
How many hours shop time would you estimate ? Wonder what an indy shop would charge for labor and parts...
I understand this is for turbo oil return lines leaking into the valley and down the back of the engine. I have a lot of smoke (burning oil) coming from the top of the engine, seems like oil is dripping onto the exhaust manifolds or something else extremely hot. Could this be the same issue or does that sound like something else?
Any help with the torque specs to all this stuff?
How did you get the first manifold bolt under downpipe? I’ve been trying for a whole day with no luck. Advice is highly appreciated! Thanks )