This video was awesome! I have no idea how you found out that the O-ring 70015 could be used! I did not have this much of a leak. Just a little weeping and not enough to have to add any oil between oil changes, or enough to drip to the ground. However my rotor fell apart and I replaced it. I had to adjust the timing a little bit, and now noticed it started leaking a bit more. Enough to make me worry. Wanted to find the replacement part. No wonder this gasket is not serviceable. Well thanks to you it is now! I went to my auto parts store bought the same O-ring and stopped the weeping 100%! This worked on my 2000 Altima with a 2.4 KA24DE. The distributor on mine is a bit different that the '96 but the process is exactly the same. You are correct about oil going up from head gasket. It cannot. I always knew my leak was from here, but just left it alone until now. Your video is spot on as to where the oil will leak when it is the distributor. My leak looked exactly the same. Distributor just to replace the O-ring gasket costs 200.00+. This fix cost me 3.00!!! Thank you!!!!!
B2131-01M00. is nissan part number for the ga16de distributor seal under the bearing on the shaft most nissan distributors have a 22.45x 12x 6mm seal on the shaft a 12.5x22x6 or 7 will fit
Great video, thanks. Is it necessary to remove the distributor cap to mark the inside? Why not removing the entire distributor as one unit and only mark the outside? And no need for TDC before removing the distributor?
If that rotors moves while its on a bench you will have no way of knowing where the rotor was positioned prior to removal. Marking position(s) as shown insures correct timing / rotor position during installation. Its better to safe and take the steps shown in the video before removal then try a short cut and end up 180 degrees out. /K&K
@@KNKRNR Just did the job today. I don't really hear or feel any RPM/noise difference compared to before, so I guess timing is good. Is there a specific way to check? Or by sound is enough?
The three things I check is the upper end horsepower there, is the bottom end torque feel right at takeoff, and no pinging under load. Pinging would mean over advanced timing, no power means under advanced timing. On these engines I check them by driving them, biggest thing is no pinging. Pinging can destroy an engine. /K&K
I had this problem, needed to replace the distributor anyway and it's still leaking but not a lot. I didn't however use vaseline (used oil) and didn't really clean the varnish up. Guess I need to pull it out again and try both. BTW there are aftermarket distributors (new) on Ebay for about $60
You must clean that varnish up as the oil pressure will bleed past the seal. Some people have reported a stuck pcv valve can cause excessive internal pressure that can causes oil to blow past the seal as well. /K&K
@@KNKRNR well damnit, cleaning the area where the distributor fits in and the vasoline trick didn't work. Still weeping a bit. I also seem to have a similar problem someone else had. I replaced valve cover gasket with a TRQ brand and I'm still getting leaks around half moon bits. Do you really think the OEM one is worth it? If so I'll drop the coin to get one.
Whats the purpose and importance of burping the car. I'm about to do this on a 98 Altima. Sounds like it was relevant to previous task. Awesome vid! ADDED: I noticed in second vid 2 of 4 spark plug wires were unplugged. i imagine its a matter of getting space and getting the pieces off. I might try tightening things down, i wonder if that's all you had to do here.
Burping / Bleeding the cooling is the process of getting the trapped air bubbles out of the cooling system. A lot of people will fill the radiator back up after the cooling system has been serviced to find the car overheats afterwards. New thermostats are tight when they are new which makes the burping / bleeding process more difficult. We take our time and slowly bring the car up to operating temperature with a few heating and cooling cycles when burping / bleeding any vehicle. These heating and cooling cycles help the air bubbles to expand and push out through the new thermostat. We have strict cooling system tests that each engine must pass before we return the vehicle to service and those tests are the following: 1. The heater must be hot before the upper radiator hose is. If the heater inside the car is not hot DO NOT drive the vehicle there's air bubbles trapped in the cooling system! 2. Heater hoses must be hot before the upper radiator hose is! Heated coolant always passes through the heater core first! 3.The upper radiator hose must be hot and fully pressurized. This hose should feel hot and rock hard with minimal squeeze! 3. Radiator cap is hot after running the engine. If there is air in the system the radiator cap will not be hot. 4. Cooling fan cycles with warm / hot air as the heat is being removed from the radiator. The air coming from the cooling fan(s) should feel like a blow dryer with each fan cycle. Cold air means coolant is not moving through the radiator as it should if it was fully bleed. Follow these tips carefully and keep a close on the temperature gauge. Once it raises past the normal operating range shut the engine off and let it cool down for 15- 30 minutes before starting the next burping / bleeding cycle. It can take up to 6 full heating and cooling cycles to get fully burped / bleed. On the second video we removed #2 and the Coil wire so we could remove the cap and keep the other wires attached. The after market spark plug wires tend to be not as strong as the O.E.M. Plug wires. These engine are tight and clearance can be an issue depending on the task at hand. Thanks for watching! /K&K
A suggestion. According to nissan technicians a pcv valve clogged causes a oil leak inside of distributor. It exist a high probability that a oil leak into distributor is due to this reason. They recommend inspect this valve. I fixed this problem changing the pcv valve.
PCV system is important but it will not stop a plastic injected molded o-rings from shrinkage over time. The normal contaminants in the oil cause the shrinkage by eating at the edge of the plastic injected o-ring that seals against the head. Every 2.4L built from 1996-2001 will need this o-ring serviced at some point. This Nissan only had 117,000 miles on it, but to be fair it was also 20 years old. /K&K
Root cause of the infamous distributor problem? So I was reading the partsgeek website for the HITACHI OEM remans, where they state: plugged or restricted PCV system is a common cause of premature distributor failure on this vehicle due to oil contamination. We recommend the installation of a new PCV valve and a check of any related hoses as part of the ignition distributor replacement for this application. Order PCV valve #11810-86G01 separately as needed. Distributor failure due to oil contamination IS NOT covered by the manufacturer's warranty!! (FROM: www.nissanclub.com/forums/general-nissan-altima-discussion-1993-2001/318857-root-cause-infamous-distributor-problem.html ) Excess crankcase pressure can blow oil through the internals to the distributor. Its due to nobody replacing the @##$%% hard to get to PCV valve which is below the intake manifold above oil filter housing. This will cause that internal distributor leak which will soon ruin the ignition module that is integral to the distributor. Talk to a Nissan tech you can confirm this. You will needed to get a used good or reman distributor and replace the PCV valve. No way around it. (FROM: www.nissanforums.com/l30-1998-2001-altima/157347-distributor-cap-oil-leak.html )
hey I have a 1989 Sentra motor, but doesn't look like yours in the video. My Sentra has one of those black cap looking thing and a mess of oil over, does this video work for that car?
You can use good ole petroleum jelly, or use can use Anti-Seize Engine Assembly Lube (Moly-lube) www.walmart.com/ip/Sta-Lube-SL3333-EG-Anti-Seize-Engine-Assembly-Lube-2-75-Wt-Oz/189545951. You don't need to use very much of either product just enough to make the o-ring slide past with ease. Most auto parts sell this product. It's what we use most of the time with our per-lube Gasket/Seal Services. /K&K Repair
Yes (1996-2001) 2.4L do use the same Distributor and O-ring seal design. I found this part number (22100-9E001) on Ebay to verify this is correct. The o-ring is about $10.00 at most auto parts stores. www.ebay.com/i/252775488748?chn=ps /K&K
Thanks! Saved me from spending $200+ on a new distributor.
That's awesome glad to hear it saved you $200.00 dollars on this repair.
/K&K
This video was awesome! I have no idea how you found out that the O-ring 70015 could be used! I did not have this much of a leak. Just a little weeping and not enough to have to add any oil between oil changes, or enough to drip to the ground. However my rotor fell apart and I replaced it. I had to adjust the timing a little bit, and now noticed it started leaking a bit more. Enough to make me worry. Wanted to find the replacement part. No wonder this gasket is not serviceable. Well thanks to you it is now! I went to my auto parts store bought the same O-ring and stopped the weeping 100%! This worked on my 2000 Altima with a 2.4 KA24DE. The distributor on mine is a bit different that the '96 but the process is exactly the same. You are correct about oil going up from head gasket. It cannot. I always knew my leak was from here, but just left it alone until now. Your video is spot on as to where the oil will leak when it is the distributor. My leak looked exactly the same. Distributor just to replace the O-ring gasket costs 200.00+. This fix cost me 3.00!!! Thank you!!!!!
Glad we were able to help!
/K&K
What's the part number of that O ring?
I also have a 2000 Altima, GXE.
B2131-01M00. is nissan part number for the ga16de distributor seal under the bearing on the shaft most nissan distributors have a 22.45x 12x 6mm seal on the shaft a 12.5x22x6 or 7 will fit
Leon i have a 2000 Nissan Altima GXE.
which part # is it?
Very Helpful!
Great video, thanks. Is it necessary to remove the distributor cap to mark the inside? Why not removing the entire distributor as one unit and only mark the outside? And no need for TDC before removing the distributor?
If that rotors moves while its on a bench you will have no way of knowing where the rotor was positioned prior to removal. Marking position(s) as shown insures correct timing / rotor position during installation. Its better to safe and take the steps shown in the video before removal then try a short cut and end up 180 degrees out.
/K&K
@ makes total sense now. Will try to do it this weekend.
@@KNKRNR Just did the job today. I don't really hear or feel any RPM/noise difference compared to before, so I guess timing is good. Is there a specific way to check? Or by sound is enough?
The three things I check is the upper end horsepower there, is the bottom end torque feel right at takeoff, and no pinging under load. Pinging would mean over advanced timing, no power means under advanced timing. On these engines I check them by driving them, biggest thing is no pinging. Pinging can destroy an engine.
/K&K
@@KNKRNR Thanks again. It completely fixed my oil leak.
Good job I have the same problem mine is an 1998 NA, also can you do a video of the pcv valve location. Thanks.
We will next time the Nissan comes in. Thanks for watching!
/K&K
I had this problem, needed to replace the distributor anyway and it's still leaking but not a lot. I didn't however use vaseline (used oil) and didn't really clean the varnish up. Guess I need to pull it out again and try both.
BTW there are aftermarket distributors (new) on Ebay for about $60
You must clean that varnish up as the oil pressure will bleed past the seal. Some people have reported a stuck pcv valve can cause excessive internal pressure that can causes oil to blow past the seal as well.
/K&K
@@KNKRNR well damnit, cleaning the area where the distributor fits in and the vasoline trick didn't work. Still weeping a bit. I also seem to have a similar problem someone else had. I replaced valve cover gasket with a TRQ brand and I'm still getting leaks around half moon bits. Do you really think the OEM one is worth it? If so I'll drop the coin to get one.
I love the new intro much better sir!!!
How about the seal for the shaft inside the distributor? That's how the oil gets inside.
If the internal shaft seal is leaking you need to replace the disturber as an assembly.
/K&K
My car has this I was right needs a distributor shaft or o ring it has oil on top of transmission case
I still don't understand why you took the valve cover off
The valve cover gasket was leaking too. This engine was a mess with upper end oil leaks.
/K&K
@@KNKRNR so is mine 🤦
@@KNKRNR ok. So it can be left on then? I just replaced my valve cover gasket but neglected the distributor seal.
@@TheMsdos25 No need to remove the valve cover if your just doing the disturber seal.
/K&K
Whats the purpose and importance of burping the car. I'm about to do this on a 98 Altima. Sounds like it was relevant to previous task. Awesome vid! ADDED: I noticed in second vid 2 of 4 spark plug wires were unplugged. i imagine its a matter of getting space and getting the pieces off. I might try tightening things down, i wonder if that's all you had to do here.
Burping / Bleeding the cooling is the process of getting the trapped air bubbles out of the cooling system. A lot of people will fill the radiator back up after the cooling system has been serviced to find the car overheats afterwards. New thermostats are tight when they are new which makes the burping / bleeding process more difficult. We take our time and slowly bring the car up to operating temperature with a few heating and cooling cycles when burping / bleeding any vehicle. These heating and cooling cycles help the air bubbles to expand and push out through the new thermostat. We have strict cooling system tests that each engine must pass before we return the vehicle to service and those tests are the following:
1. The heater must be hot before the upper radiator hose is. If the heater inside the car is not hot DO NOT drive the vehicle there's air bubbles trapped in the cooling system!
2. Heater hoses must be hot before the upper radiator hose is! Heated coolant always passes through the heater core first!
3.The upper radiator hose must be hot and fully pressurized. This hose should feel hot and rock hard with minimal squeeze!
3. Radiator cap is hot after running the engine. If there is air in the system the radiator cap will not be hot.
4. Cooling fan cycles with warm / hot air as the heat is being removed from the radiator. The air coming from the cooling fan(s) should feel like a blow dryer with each fan cycle. Cold air means coolant is not moving through the radiator as it should if it was fully bleed.
Follow these tips carefully and keep a close on the temperature gauge. Once it raises past the normal operating range shut the engine off and let it cool down for 15- 30 minutes before starting the next burping / bleeding cycle. It can take up to 6 full heating and cooling cycles to get fully burped / bleed.
On the second video we removed #2 and the Coil wire so we could remove the cap and keep the other wires attached. The after market spark plug wires tend to be not as strong as the O.E.M. Plug wires. These engine are tight and clearance can be an issue depending on the task at hand. Thanks for watching!
/K&K
@@KNKRNR one question,you'll need to drain the motor oil before replace the O ring?
A suggestion. According to nissan technicians a pcv valve clogged causes a oil leak inside of distributor. It exist a high probability that a oil leak into distributor is due to this reason. They recommend inspect this valve. I fixed this problem changing the pcv valve.
PCV system is important but it will not stop a plastic injected molded o-rings from shrinkage over time. The normal contaminants in the oil cause the shrinkage by eating at the edge of the plastic injected o-ring that seals against the head. Every 2.4L built from 1996-2001 will need this o-ring serviced at some point. This Nissan only had 117,000 miles on it, but to be fair it was also 20 years old.
/K&K
Root cause of the infamous distributor problem?
So I was reading the partsgeek website for the HITACHI OEM remans, where they state:
plugged or restricted PCV system is a common cause of premature distributor failure on this vehicle due to oil contamination. We recommend the installation of a new PCV valve and a check of any related hoses as part of the ignition distributor replacement for this application. Order PCV valve #11810-86G01 separately as needed. Distributor failure due to oil contamination IS NOT covered by the manufacturer's warranty!!
(FROM: www.nissanclub.com/forums/general-nissan-altima-discussion-1993-2001/318857-root-cause-infamous-distributor-problem.html )
Excess crankcase pressure can blow oil through the internals to the distributor. Its due to nobody replacing the @##$%% hard to get to PCV valve which is below the intake manifold above oil filter housing. This will cause that internal distributor leak which will soon ruin the ignition module that is integral to the distributor.
Talk to a Nissan tech you can confirm this. You will needed to get a used good or reman distributor and replace the PCV valve. No way around it. (FROM: www.nissanforums.com/l30-1998-2001-altima/157347-distributor-cap-oil-leak.html )
@@mcastanos1 I'm thinking my 01 has this issue. It looks like getting to and changing the pcv valve is gonna be a bitch. Any helpful hints?
hey I have a 1989 Sentra motor, but doesn't look like yours in the video. My Sentra has one of those black cap looking thing and a mess of oil over, does this video work for that car?
yes It will be close but may have different part number for the o-ring! Some of those do have a different firing order.
/K&K
What did you use to clean the inside housing of the Distributor?
We use Scott's Blue Shop towels to clean and service the housing.
/K&K
Hi, Could you please tell me what grease you applied on the O-ring? Where can I buy it? Than you.
You can use good ole petroleum jelly, or use can use Anti-Seize Engine Assembly Lube (Moly-lube)
www.walmart.com/ip/Sta-Lube-SL3333-EG-Anti-Seize-Engine-Assembly-Lube-2-75-Wt-Oz/189545951.
You don't need to use very much of either product just enough to make the o-ring slide past with ease. Most auto parts sell this product. It's what we use most of the time with our per-lube Gasket/Seal Services.
/K&K Repair
Thank you very much for your reply and kind help! I will try the second one.
Would the same part # o ring work for a 2001 altima 2.4 ?
Yes (1996-2001) 2.4L do use the same Distributor and O-ring seal design. I found this part number (22100-9E001) on Ebay to verify this is correct. The o-ring is about $10.00 at most auto parts stores.
www.ebay.com/i/252775488748?chn=ps
/K&K
If im doing an automatic do I still put it on neutral??or leave it on first
Just leave it in park for an automatic. The torque converter will free spin so you can line the bolts up.
/K&K
Good woork 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👍 frome mexico city 👍
I like da old Nissan I hate da new Nissan