Very nice explanation for a problem of many. Due to my circumstances, I rarely sharpen in the field, so therefore have no need to replicate the shape. I think, in my wood, the little (almost) top beak that the grinder leaves, makes the cut a little faster and the chain dull a little faster. I tend to either round grind or square file, so not as important to follow a grinder with a file. I sure do like the time you took to explain and share!!
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 I wish I never had to sharpen in the field but the dam trees keep falling over where there's no power. Team that with me being the worst chain grinder the world has ever seen and that's how we ended up here. You stopped me from making a stupid mistake a few days ago. I was about to pull the baffle plate out of a muffler and remembered your videos showing it didn't help
@@SawChainTheories My benefit of sawing/needing chains, fuel, etc... is the fact that I've never more than a few minute walk from a SideBySide, tractor, truck, or whatever... always have 5-10 loops in my sawing box. I think (referring to the baffle) that opening up the side of the baffle some could be very helpful and opening the exhaust openings on the outside of the can is a must-do. The whole baffle cage does provide a nice little restricted area in which the fuel/air charge and come out of the exhaust port and remain unmixed with most of the exh gasses. The end of the baffle is quite important for the bounce-back to slightly overcharge the cylinder. Those pesky little engineers have some stuff figured out!!
I'm hopeless with a grind for the same reason, I don't really use it and the grinder I have is a bit crap. Hopefully now that I have the basics I might use it more
No, you are not. 🙂 Your comments have also been very helpful to me in better understanding the variables that in practice accompany the creation of cutter geometry and the impact of it on the results obtained especially in hardwood. I've certainly written several times in comments here (YT) about the importance of how low the grinding wheel goes. I've also written about 2 file/grinder systems designed for mere mortals, i.e. one _round file/rounded wheel_ system and at the moment the other: Hexa. Hexa has the advantage of being simpler and there are not many options there for fiddling. The traditional system, due to the rounded edge of the grinding wheel (or the file), allows more fiddling, especially if the grinder is equipped with a tilting or sliding vise. To get the (top plate) cutting angle equal to the arm tilt angle (e.g. 60 degrees) at the point where the grinding wheel first touches the top plate, you need to lower the wheel so that its "edge" where the flat part begins is in contact with the top plate. Phew, that was hard for me to describe in words. I hope it is understandable, one good drawing would be certainly better. I write about the point of contact because the grinding wheel, unlike the file, is, well, round. This "feature" is used in grinders with a sliding vise, where the offset makes it possible to achieve a greater side plate angle and a changing cutting angle. That is, similar to tilting the file or tilting the vise. PS I noticed that the heel rises when the wheel touches the cutter. I think it is possible to adjust the clamp plates so that the cutter link will not tilt. It works for me with a little patience.
@@elpolaco7654 I have reached a point where I think I could square file blindfolded, but can't use a grinder. This is a huge step in getting better The chain vise moving is just one of many problems with this grinder, I now have to manually spin the wheel to get it moving when I turn it on. It's time for a new grinder. I'm looking at the Ama Maxx Pro
@@SawChainTheories If I physically could, I think I could “fix” your grinder. Isn't it the standard Chinese version of 511A? Personally, I would not opt for the Maxx Pro. Too weird. If I really needed it, I could electrically change the direction of rotation for myself on a “regular” grinder - I'm not afraid of sparks.
Fixing the clamp on the grinder is very easy. Take it apart and put thinner washers in it. They come setup for .080 chain and are sloppy with normal sized ones. On mine I took out the thinner of the two washers and .063 chain barely fits now but it works great on .050 which I sharpen often.
@@SawChainTheoriesIf you are still having trouble with the motor starting, then if you feel up to it, you can check the condition of the capacitor that is responsible for starting such a motor. You would have to remove the plastic wheel cover and then there are still five screws after unscrewing them and removing the cover attached with them, the electrical connections and the capacitor are visible. I would pay attention to whether the cables leading to it are OK and are well connected to the rest of the components. It seems that capacitor failure is unlikely, although of course it cannot be ruled out, especially in a cheap Chinese product.
Very nice explanation for a problem of many. Due to my circumstances, I rarely sharpen in the field, so therefore have no need to replicate the shape. I think, in my wood, the little (almost) top beak that the grinder leaves, makes the cut a little faster and the chain dull a little faster. I tend to either round grind or square file, so not as important to follow a grinder with a file. I sure do like the time you took to explain and share!!
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 I wish I never had to sharpen in the field but the dam trees keep falling over where there's no power. Team that with me being the worst chain grinder the world has ever seen and that's how we ended up here.
You stopped me from making a stupid mistake a few days ago. I was about to pull the baffle plate out of a muffler and remembered your videos showing it didn't help
@@SawChainTheories My benefit of sawing/needing chains, fuel, etc... is the fact that I've never more than a few minute walk from a SideBySide, tractor, truck, or whatever... always have 5-10 loops in my sawing box.
I think (referring to the baffle) that opening up the side of the baffle some could be very helpful and opening the exhaust openings on the outside of the can is a must-do. The whole baffle cage does provide a nice little restricted area in which the fuel/air charge and come out of the exhaust port and remain unmixed with most of the exh gasses. The end of the baffle is quite important for the bounce-back to slightly overcharge the cylinder. Those pesky little engineers have some stuff figured out!!
Makes a lot of sense! I don’t have a lot of time on the grinder but I’m messing around a bit now I have one
I'm hopeless with a grind for the same reason, I don't really use it and the grinder I have is a bit crap.
Hopefully now that I have the basics I might use it more
@@SawChainTheories I was once not as proficient with a hand file so hopefully practicing will make improvement
No, you are not. 🙂
Your comments have also been very helpful to me in better understanding the variables that in practice accompany the creation of cutter geometry and the impact of it on the results obtained especially in hardwood.
I've certainly written several times in comments here (YT) about the importance of how low the grinding wheel goes.
I've also written about 2 file/grinder systems designed for mere mortals, i.e. one _round file/rounded wheel_ system and at the moment the other: Hexa.
Hexa has the advantage of being simpler and there are not many options there for fiddling.
The traditional system, due to the rounded edge of the grinding wheel (or the file), allows more fiddling, especially if the grinder is equipped with a tilting or sliding vise.
To get the (top plate) cutting angle equal to the arm tilt angle (e.g. 60 degrees) at the point where the grinding wheel first touches the top plate, you need to lower the wheel so that its "edge" where the flat part begins is in contact with the top plate.
Phew, that was hard for me to describe in words. I hope it is understandable, one good drawing would be certainly better.
I write about the point of contact because the grinding wheel, unlike the file, is, well, round. This "feature" is used in grinders with a sliding vise, where the offset makes it possible to achieve a greater side plate angle and a changing cutting angle.
That is, similar to tilting the file or tilting the vise.
PS
I noticed that the heel rises when the wheel touches the cutter. I think it is possible to adjust the clamp plates so that the cutter link will not tilt. It works for me with a little patience.
@@elpolaco7654 I have reached a point where I think I could square file blindfolded, but can't use a grinder. This is a huge step in getting better
The chain vise moving is just one of many problems with this grinder, I now have to manually spin the wheel to get it moving when I turn it on. It's time for a new grinder. I'm looking at the Ama Maxx Pro
@@SawChainTheories If I physically could, I think I could “fix” your grinder. Isn't it the standard Chinese version of 511A?
Personally, I would not opt for the Maxx Pro. Too weird. If I really needed it, I could electrically change the direction of rotation for myself on a “regular” grinder - I'm not afraid of sparks.
Fixing the clamp on the grinder is very easy.
Take it apart and put thinner washers in it. They come setup for .080 chain and are sloppy with normal sized ones.
On mine I took out the thinner of the two washers and .063 chain barely fits now but it works great on .050 which I sharpen often.
Thanks for the tip on the vise. Pulled the washer out and swapped it over for a thinner one and it works a lot better now
@@SawChainTheoriesIf you are still having trouble with the motor starting, then if you feel up to it, you can check the condition of the capacitor that is responsible for starting such a motor.
You would have to remove the plastic wheel cover and then there are still five screws after unscrewing them and removing the cover attached with them, the electrical connections and the capacitor are visible. I would pay attention to whether the cables leading to it are OK and are well connected to the rest of the components. It seems that capacitor failure is unlikely, although of course it cannot be ruled out, especially in a cheap Chinese product.