What Is A Goodyear Welt?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มิ.ย. 2024
- The Goodyear welt may be the biggest buzzword in mens shoes, but what exactly is it? The Goodyear welting method is an excellent method of building a shoe but it's by no means the only method you should consider. The Blake stitch, Blake rapid, cementing, bologna, and Norwegian styles all have their pros and cons and it's important to know which fills your need best.
Goodyear welt- comfortable, water resistant, but can be stiff at first.
Blake stitch- Close cropped sole for a sleek look, can wick moisture into the shoe and more difficult to resole.
Blake Rapid- A hybrid of Goodyear and Blake: stiffer than Blake but not as water resistant as Goodyear.
Cement- Cheap, flexible, best for "beater shoes" or sneakers.
Bologna- Extremely flexible, but not very water resistant or supportive.
Norwegian- The most water resistant, also the least flexible with a very noticeable welt.
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Reviews of clothing, boots, and accessories for men, along with style advice and life philosophy. I've been working with my hands for my entire life as a mechanic, tow truck driver, and eventually a licensed electrician. Being a blue collar guy, I look for certain elements in a product: is it durable? Is it high-quality? Will it perform well over its service life? Whether boots, pants, jackets, or tools I believe it's best to buy once and cry once by getting the best you can afford. With so many options these days, choosing the best product can become a difficult decision, but that's where I come in. Helping you stay stylish, rugged, and handsome.
I don't care where it's made as long as it's made well, and allows you to buy less and buy better. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Just for the record, the method is called in Spanish "empalmillado". My two grandfathers were shoemakers and used to handmade shoes that way. Great video, well explained and concise.
zapato :v
Probably one of the best video of explaining shoe construction ive ever seen (i read many of them)
Thank you very much! That’s high praise.
I agree. I watched a few. This is definitely the best.
I agree
I agree :)
Indeed
You're a good presenter Carl. Concise delivery with naturalness to your voice which is pleasant to listen to. Keep it up.
Thank you so much!
+1
I literally thought Goodyear Welt meant it used Goodyear rubber lol. Great video and now I understand more about shoe construction. Interesting stuff!
Don't feel bad, I thought the same thing LOL
You could. Old winter tires can be cut into a good shoe sole.
@@gusjeazer The soles of the first prototype Dr Martens were made out of damaged aircraft tyres
Same. Buying boots in Mexico and Goodyear welt was the selling point, but didn't know what it meant, so jus figured it was the rubber sole.
You're actually halfway right. The man who invented the Goodyear machine for stitching the Goodyear welt is the son of the founder of the Goodyear tire company. The tire company was also one of the few manufacturers of rubber shoe soles back in the day.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goodyear_welt
I learned English and learned about methods of shoe construction, your accent is clear thanks
After 4 videos i finally got a clear answer to what a goodyear welt is, thanks man!
Great video. Thanks for the lesson. Just to add: "The machinery used for the Goodyear Welt process was invented in 1869 by Charles Goodyear Jr., the son of Charles Goodyear (the self-taught chemist and manufacturing engineer who developed vulcanized rubber).
This is where you end up when you have 20 boots in your Amazon cart you can't decide on
lol, you are right, so it's better to invest in the 2 best winter boots, one of them for staying dry and warm other to look like a winter boot but more stylish. I have learned if u live in a cold city and you wear boots to go to work and wait for the bus or do a lot of walking on snowy sidewalks etc, you'll need a nice Pajar. Best Canadian boots to have. the second boot must be Sorel. Always have 2 winter boots so u can them 24 hours of resting peroid.
I am a footwear manufacturer and retailer. Your video has been the most concise and knowledgeable presentation of constructions. Good Job.!
Great simplified explanation for those not in the know! Very easy to understand and illustrated man! Well done.
Thanks buddy! All the guides I’ve read either over simplify it or explain construction as if you’re a professional cobbler.
Another very informative video. Easy to understand. Very well done, Carl! Thanks
A great explanation and thank you for the amazing audio quality! I appreciate it!
Great exploration of the various shoe constructions out there. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for watching!
Wow! Great video Carl! I've just recently discovered your channel. Very informative and you are very well spoken. A lot of information...you should be a cobbler!!
This was a great explanation! I came here because I'm considering buying my first pair of Red Wing Iron Ranger shoes and comparing other comparable shoes. As I shop around, I'm fascinated by their construction which led me to this video to learn about the Goodyear welt. I even learned more about other shoe construction- thanks! If I could offer a recommendation, consider mentioning socks when talking about shoe fit/comfort with shoes. Your feet + Your socks + Your shoes= Your comfort. I wear Darn Tough socks and plan on wearing light cushion hiking/boot socks with the Iron Rangers and I'm sure they will feel great. Thanks again for a great video!
You're easily the best channel for boots to be informed, thanks for all your work. Seriously
I appreciate that! Thank you so much Jose, you made my day.
Excellent synopsis! Entertaining and informative. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!!!
Great summary very concise and easy to understand
Dude! Your explanation was super clear! Just what I was looking for. Thank you
Glad to hear it!
I have to agree with some of the comments on this video, this honestly is the best video explaining different types of shoe welting. I have read a lot of articles and watched many videos but never really understood it completely! Thanks Carl, you're a very good presenter as well!
Thank you for the kind words, and for taking the time to watch my stuff! I’m glad this cleared things up.
Just discovered your channel and I love it. Your passion shows!
Thank you so much!
Thanks for the explanation on these types of welts/shoe construction, very informative.
Thank you for watching!
Great video and fantastic explanation, thanks!
Thank you. I've always wondered about Goodyear vs. something else. Now I know. I'm an informed consumer. And I now know that I have a pair of 270 Goodyear welt boots. Cool.
Great video!!!
I am so chuffed!!! Yesterday my Thursday Captain boots got delivered, I wanted to see what the hype was all about😂
I'm wearing them in around the house and they are very good indeed, I need to take them out and about bust so far, awesome!
Thank you for a wonderful video. I learned a lot of information on Goodyear Welt.
Thank you for watching!
Really enjoyed the video. Explained in lay man terms and very informative,. Thank you.
Thank you for watching!!!
Thank you for yet again showing me theres more to shoes then I ever thought! Love the vids man!
Thank you for watching!
I had to say it, one of my top 3 footwear channel and it's SO GOOD not to have a dark background ;)
All the best!
Great presentation man, thank you.
I’m a big fan of the Norwegian Welt. I work outdoors. Excellent video!
Thank you. I was wanting to know what you went over in this video.
Great video - really well explained ... thanks for pulling this together!
My pleasure!
Thanks for the Info,quite a pleasant and clear explanation
I'm happy you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Very informative video, big up! Norwegian welt style is very popular in traditional hiking boots in countries around the Alps. One example is Hanwag models Stuiben and Bergler made in Germany. But other german, swiss etc. shoe brands also make very robust double stiched alp shoes. Worth to take a look at!
Excellent and informative video. Good work sir!
Much appreciated my friend!
Thank you for explaining this so simply. It makes sense now
You're very welcome!
Great Video Mate....Never knew there were so many style of boot construction. ! Cheers ! !
Thank you! I didn’t even cover some of the more exotic ones, but chances are you’ll never see them in the wild anyhow. Thanks for watching!
bro you are the man. I have learned so much from you. You truly are the best male lifestyle/fashion guy on youtube. oh like others that are click bait or promos
Thanks so much man! I sincerely appreciate that, you made my day.
youre good for explaining. thank you brother, new knowledge to me about leather shoes.
Thank you for the kind words! My hope is that I can explain things simply enough to make sense to guys like me who only need a working knowledge of shoe construction. Every guide I've seen is either oversimplified or way too complex, hopefully this hits a sweet spot for someone just looking to increase their knowledge.
Thank you for sharing 🙂
Very good video
This video helped me understand better about Goodyear welts. I am buying a pair of cowboy boots and they have a Goodyear welt. Thank you for breaking it down for this 58 year old lady. You are awesome. Keep it up 💯
Glad I could help, and thank you for watching!
I'm actually buying a pair boots in Mexico..one of the major selling points was Goodyear welt...so came here to understand what it was. Turns out I bought a good pair.
Excellent video, for more years, than I can remember I have bought Loakes men's boots with a leather sole, recently I contacted the agent here in Ireland to order a pair of Loakes Bedale boots only to be told that they no longer supply leather soles and offer only gum rubber soles.
At £215.00 I think it's a cheat for as you say rubber soles are glued on and therefore cheaper to produce and impossible to get resoled here in Ireland, yet both my son and I can get our leather-soled boots re-soled locally on average six times swapping between work boots and dress boots. So much for choice and putting the customer first.
you are good for explaining. thanks boss, new knowledge to me about good year,bologna.thx...
You are most welcome
I’ve started buying Goodyear welted and Blake stitched shoes that are handmade in Northamptonshire (UK).
They’re so well made and repairable, which I think is important when we’re all trying to cut down on waste.
Nice.. Easy to understand!!
Wow, the things you learn on TH-cam..Love it.
Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment!
Carl, good explanation of shoe construction. On occasion I wear my heavy-duty Goodyear welt constructed shoes. These are vintage Florsheim double leather sole/heal 5-nail v-cleat shoes from the 1960’s-1970’s. I have several pairs of these shoes and I love them. Have you ever seen these shoes? You can actually still purchase these shoes on eBay.
Dude you have THE best boot channel on youtube by far
Well thank you so much man!!!
Useful and interesting. Thanks a lot!
Much appreciated! Thanks for watching
This was a great video. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nicely done
That was a great video. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
ALWAYS EXCELLENT
nice job at explaning!
Excellent and informative video. TIL how different types of sole construction are best adapted to various uses and environments, and are not just about the look of the shoe. It also explains why some shoe types are more expensive, and how manufacturers can simulate the look of more expensive construction, along with tips on how to identify those styles. I wish women’s shoes weren’t mostly garbage.
Nice information! Thanks
Thanks for watching!!!
Good one, Sir 👍
This was a great video. Great diagrams, good explanation and information. Thank you sir !
Thanks for watching!
Very educational! Thank you for sharing. 👏❤️🥰
Thanks for watching!
First time here on your channel. Great 👍 overview, thank you. I 🤔 think I'll stay for awhile.
Thank you, and welcome!
I appreciate the video. Thank you. Angel from The Bay
Thank you for watching!
Great video
Great vid! Subscribed!
Thank you!!!
that was awesome thank you!
Great vid. Can you make a vid on the salami-weld?
Thank you for an informative video. My problem is with shoes that are not as presented by the salesman. I thought I was buying a Goodyear welt (at the price point) but it was merely sole stitching.
Broken down perfectly!
Very informative. Another way of knowing if a shoe is G.W or not is to simply look on the sole. Most G. W shoes would say so.
superb video
Much appreciated!
Wow! Very informative and helpful
That you for the kind words!
Man this is perfect!
Thank you!
Great explanation! Especially comparing which are more waterproof. I only wish you had explained why is it called “Goodyear” etc. What does it have to do with the tire company?
The Goodyear welt is actually named for the machinery used to create the bond. It was invented in 1869 by Charles Goodyear jr. - the son of Charles Goodyear who invented vulcanized rubber and ultimately the tires we use today. You're right on the money!
Intriguing.
I glad I found this video. I had no clue what a Goodyear welt was. My first thought was. What does a car tire have to do with shoes/boot? Thanks for the video.
Hahaha, well the inventor is a relative!
Hi Carl good video. I have a question. I wear a lot of military boots, especially Italian made amphibious boots made for parachutists and commando raids. They are very expensive and being waterproof they have rubber soles usually Vibram. They get a lot of abuse and now im coming to re-sole I am told they can be resoled easily? do you have any experience of these types of boots?
Love the content - thanks for the education! Having said that, I can see why people might criticize the Blake stitching methods (of either variety. Sounds to me like an outsized expense to get an aesthetic outcome with compromised water resistance (which I’d infer extends to a high cost to re-sole). Granted, it gives a higher degree of flexibility, but sounds like the Goodyear welt is a superior choice for me as I’d happily take short term stiffness for durability and water resistance (and all other things being equal, I tend to like the aesthetic of a more
Prominent lip. Having said all that - thanks again!
Thank you
Thanks.
When I saw goodyear in you're thumbnail I thought you where talking about tires 😂
My dressed leather shoes are Norwegian welted, they are timeless pieces, durable, waterproof and rare. Not a lot of companies in the world produce them. I'd rather pay for quality than quantity.
100% Agreed!
solid vid
Have you ever encountered a shoes construction "Blake - rapid stich"? I just stumbled into knowing it while I looked for shoe construction on Google? I found there were kind of a greal deal of articles talking about it but i didn't any specific illustrations for it. Could You do a video to verify blake rapid stich?
What's the best adhesive do you recommend? Thanks
Great video man good and thorough 👍🏼
I work on all three cemented, Blake and Goodyear welted at the shoe repair I work at everyday! Stitching the soles on Goodyear welted is always super fun once you get the hang of it but super stressful first few years learning to master it, like anything else Lol
I wear a pair of amber harness iron rangers to work everyday too I can stand for 10 hours no problem, I also put a black vibram christy sole on it I think more red wing fans should start putting Christie’s on their iron rangers
Hey man
Love the video. Very well presented. However, you neglected to mention anything about the name itself. Why is it called a goodyear welt? History on the name. Any affiliation with the tire company? Pretty important for the layman. Thanks!
I cant tell what I have. Seems like goodyear because of the stiches and i think its cork between the upper and outer sole but has a rubber sole which doesnt show the stitches through the rubber. Could a rubber sole be glued onto the bottom and cover the goodyear welt stiches? Boots seem stiff. UK brand called Dundee I cant find anything on (made in portugal) a cap toe boot with hook laces at the top.
I like Blake stitch and moccasins in summer. Goodyear welt is good for a UK winter...
You have in channel stitching as well .. if you look at the bottom the stitching is not visible.. but its there
Rapid Blake is by far the best method between the two giving sturdy and water resistant footwear. Stitchdown is the only true water proof method with or without an added protective welt on top of the upper.
I think you have generalized Goodyear welting with the more traditional hand- (or machine-) stitched welt.
There is an operational difference between these.
Goodyear welting has a preformed rubber or leather welt that can be wrapped around and then glued onto the edge of the insole. After it has bonded, the welt is then machine stitched to the insole.
With hand-stitched welting, a series of transverse hemp grooves are made through the upper-insole join to a depth of half the insole thickness with a curved awl. The welt is then stitched to the upper and insole by running the waxed hemp through the welt and through the transverse grooves.
I have a A.Testoni shoes that’s a hybrid of Goodyear self and Bolognese. It’s quite pricey, around 1K.
Hardest to break in, Goodyear welt or a boot with a glued on sole?
My father had shoe shop in early 60s one thing I remember him saying was when buying new shoes make sure they have Goodyear welt on them, only problem I had was that I was a kid about 7 years old and only would ware tennis shoes at that time Ahahahahahaaha!
Is it possible to dye the welt/stitching?
Thanks for the explanations. Where did you find the diagrams? I want to post/link your video on my website with a pictorial and I really like the cutaway pictures you show in this one. Thanks, Hillary Marek from Hillary's of Houston Luxury Clothing and Vintage Boutiques
Thank you Hillary, I got the diagrams from a number of different sources. Some were advertisements from shoe manufacturers, and others were simply a Google image search. I wish I had more specific information for you, but this was a few months back and my memory isn't as good as it once was.
Well thanks for giving me a place to start. I'll check out Google and see what I can dig up. Lmk if you ever want to collaborate. I have an extensive collection and I'm always open to brand ambassador agreements. I supply the luxury you supply the talent and I comp you with some of the best heritage brand clothing out there for your time.
than ks much I did not know.
I’m looking for a well cushioned hiking boot or walking shoe that the cushioning doesn’t compress or lose its cushion. EVA cushioning wears out in my shoes within 2 months.
What about "stitchdown" I was surprised you didn't mention that method.
Cool. Dr. Martens is the most affordable goodyear welted shoes, by far and maybe the US military ones.
By the way are the Military Approved Boots, goodyear welt? It seems stiched as well.