Some people have a big beef with Goodyear Welted (GW) because of the rib mentioned several times in this video, which is why I'd like to see "Blake/Rapid" added in the discussion. Blake/Rapid is like GW but the welt is replaced with a midsole - the insole is stitched to the midsole much like normal Blake. But unlike Goodyear Welted, we can do away with the glued-in rib. Finally, the outsole is stitched to the midsole, so any repair advantage Blake has over GW is shared by Blake/Rapid. DWFII over at Styleforum has been suggesting that of all the ready-to-wear, Blake/Rapid is probably the least bad relative to handwelted. I believe him.
Razevok Thanks for bringing that up! Heath and I get quite a few Blake/Rapid constructed shoes in our shop. We love working on this type of construction because it’s super easy and very solid!! We’ll have to do a video on these. Again, great comment! Hands down a VERY solid and good construction! 👍🏻👍🏻
That's reassuring to hear from actual cobblers that the Blake Stitch Machine is a common piece of equipment of a good cobbler's shop. There's plenty of info from cobblers and manufacturers that offer recraft services for their GYW footwear but almost zero talk of the availability of BS recrafting other than it can be done. Granted, none of my BS shoes are worth the price of recrafting lol.
Great video! That's what I'm talking about! Great way to bring in industry know how. Great access for us who don't have these connections. Thanks to the cobblers for coming on. If I lived closer, they'd have my biz!
James Weiss We definitely enjoy what we do! It was a pleasure working alongside Jon. We’ve been subscribers of his for quite some time as well. We hope to bring some our knowledge of the shoe industry to those on TH-cam.
When I was looking for a pair of great brown dress shoes in Toronto, the two that struck me as the most elegant were a pair of Edward Greens (which were unaffordable at $1500 Canadian) and a pair from the high end 'Tremezza'' line from Ferragamo that were $950. I ended up buying the Ferragamos, and later learned that, like all Ferragamos, they are Blake stitched. Sometimes I think about the idea that I spent such a premium price on what is not considered the pinnacle of shoe craftsmanship in terms of stitching, and sometimes I think of Blake stitching as just another high-quality manufacture. They look great thought.
Blake stitching isn’t really anything to sneeze at, but Salvatore Ferragamo shoes are made with high quality leather uppers even if they’re not Goodyear welted. Also Goodyear welting tends to chunk up the shoes a little and designers like Ferragamo would prefer to have their shoes not at all chunked up beyond what’s necessary.
@@nhalverson2890 exactly! For example the comparison between, and it’s a drastic example, a Florsheim imperial ‘Gunboat’ model to your Ferragamos. The gunboat might be the “better” construction but the Ferragamos look sleeker, more streamlined, and still repairable which the combination of all three is getting rarer and rarer in most cases of high fashion.
@@nhalverson2890 I’ve actually heard that it’s more common than you’d think. Most cobblers should have one given the commonality of Blake stitched shoes but I think it also comes from the idea that a Goodyear welt can be done by hand while a Blake stitch can’t as easily so that difference in doability translated to the idea of difference in commonality of the machines
In my opinion the Blake stitched shoes look a lot nicer. Because Goodyear adds a lot of heaviness (to the eye) and also makes the shoe stiffer and less comfortable. “And” I kinda dislike the look of the larger Welt with the Stiches. My Blake Stiched shoes look so smooth and refined. 🤙
@@niniengineering certain brands like Carmina and TLB Mallorca make Goodyear welted shoes that still look very refined so you can have the best of both worlds.
How do you guys make sure you use the same holes on Goodyear welts? Today, I took my boots to my cobbler and he said that would take too long and this would be very expensive. So he’s gonna make new holes. Should I be worried? Thanks.
Great video! They seem like great guys and are articulate and can explain exactly what's going on in a way someone who isn't a professional can understand!
Can't wait for the Allen Edmonds vs Thursday Boots comparison, that one will be quite interesting since Thursday is seen as a good "entry-level" but if I was getting something goodyear welted, I'd definitely want it to be a long-term purchase.
Thursday's are GYW. How long they last is a matter of how often you're rotating your footwear. Typical full recraft service is btwn $150-$300 & a smart way to extend the life of a $400 and above shoe and reduces cost per wear. $150 to recraft a $200 shoe? I guess that's up to the individual but I would never tell someone that did thinking I saved $.
I love my Thursdays. I made my purchase in large part to the reviews on this channel. Very impressive all around. What wasn't mentioned was how great your closet smells. New leather!
Excuse me sir, does blake stich and veldtschoen is same construction? If not what the pros and cons of veldtschoen and which better between veldtschoen vs Goodyear welted?
I've had my eye on a pair of Belstaff Trialmaster short boots for quite a while, they're made in Italy and apparently they're Blake stitched. I love the aesthetics, but will they be durable enough?
Great vid, I'd love to see talks with tailors and other similar professions. Over the years, some of the best information I've gotten has been from long-time sales people, whether shoe stores or clothing stores, who know the way things 'should' be made, at the very least, they offer a great baseline from which to understand and evaluate what's being done now.
I wouldn't consider a GYW shoe superior to a Blake stitched shoe. It really depends on. There are different types of GYW. The often used GYW Primstitched method is probably one of the worst methods to use, to build a good shoe. Cons are: a pretty high layer of cork with the danger of increasing already existing foot malpositions, no arch support, pretty stiff. A built, which is much better than Blake stitched would be GYW stitched by hand...but most of the manufacturers today aren't able to do it due to cost efficiency. Types of building a shoe which are much better than GYW or Blake: Norwegian Welt, Stagno, Cadenon.
WhatShallEyeDo4U Haha...Jon is actually 6’4. We’re 6’1 and 5’11. Unfortunately, we couldn’t find another stool that was the same height as the others, so Jon took the short one. 😀
the one thing they don t talk about is how much it cost to have full resole , `when you get to the point when need a new sole , the upper will also look old , better off buy cheaper glue shoes and just get a new one when need new full sole ,
How do you find a reputable cobbler to know that they're doing a good job on your shoe repair or things we might ask a cobbler to know how well they know shoes.
How tall are these two dudes? They seem taller than even you Jon haha, unless you were on a lower seat. Great video! Just watched a bunch of their stuff. Nice crossover.
I had a "cheaper" pair of "rough-out" boots. Rubber sole. Rubber "laces". No way to resole. And I wish I could keep them, and not go trough the hassle of finding new boots, that will fit as well in comfort, utility and style.
Am I supposed to have a "vertical crack" in the bottom of each goodyear welt and blake stitched Taft shoe boot? It looks like it's falling apart at the crack.
Can you replace a Blake Stitch with a Goodyear Welt? Or does the shoe have to be designed and built differently from the beginning in order to accommodate the different welts? I realize the Goodyear probably makes the sole, heel and entire shoe slightly taller and that certain shoes were designed with Blake Stitch in mind for a certain look, just wondering if it's possible.
I did my own research, and while it doesn't seem totally impossible, it's completely impractical and would require deconstructing and rebuilding the shoe. It's not a simple removal of Blake welt and stitching on a Goodyear welt.
Toss up between style and price point. If there was a reasonably price you that love the style of I would not pass on it just because it is not Goodyear welted
James Mosley The shoes that were in front of us on the table were Allen Edmonds and Thursday Boots. The shoes that were being refurbished were Allen Edmonds and Santoni’s.
And then you have shoes that are only cemented, not even bothering to do a blake stitch to cut costs. Companies that make those should go bankrupt. Im looking at you Florsheim.
Nothing should last long because it's bad for economy. We live in consumerism society, and the more we buy expensive items the better for governments, and for us, because this way we will always have more motivation to work hard and pay more taxes to government.
Some people have a big beef with Goodyear Welted (GW) because of the rib mentioned several times in this video, which is why I'd like to see "Blake/Rapid" added in the discussion.
Blake/Rapid is like GW but the welt is replaced with a midsole - the insole is stitched to the midsole much like normal Blake. But unlike Goodyear Welted, we can do away with the glued-in rib. Finally, the outsole is stitched to the midsole, so any repair advantage Blake has over GW is shared by Blake/Rapid.
DWFII over at Styleforum has been suggesting that of all the ready-to-wear, Blake/Rapid is probably the least bad relative to handwelted. I believe him.
Razevok Thanks for bringing that up! Heath and I get quite a few Blake/Rapid constructed shoes in our shop. We love working on this type of construction because it’s super easy and very solid!! We’ll have to do a video on these. Again, great comment! Hands down a VERY solid and good construction! 👍🏻👍🏻
That's reassuring to hear from actual cobblers that the Blake Stitch Machine is a common piece of equipment of a good cobbler's shop. There's plenty of info from cobblers and manufacturers that offer recraft services for their GYW footwear but almost zero talk of the availability of BS recrafting other than it can be done. Granted, none of my BS shoes are worth the price of recrafting lol.
Great video! That's what I'm talking about! Great way to bring in industry know how. Great access for us who don't have these connections. Thanks to the cobblers for coming on. If I lived closer, they'd have my biz!
James Weiss We definitely enjoy what we do! It was a pleasure working alongside Jon. We’ve been subscribers of his for quite some time as well. We hope to bring some our knowledge of the shoe industry to those on TH-cam.
@@TrentonHeath I have added you to my subscribed list. Looking on catching up and hearing from you in the future.
They have a mail-in service!!
Thanks for explaining the difference. It sounds like if one can afford it, Goodyear welted is the way to go. Either is better than stitchout shoes.
When I was looking for a pair of great brown dress shoes in Toronto, the two that struck me as the most elegant were a pair of Edward Greens (which were unaffordable at $1500 Canadian) and a pair from the high end 'Tremezza'' line from Ferragamo that were $950. I ended up buying the Ferragamos, and later learned that, like all Ferragamos, they are Blake stitched. Sometimes I think about the idea that I spent such a premium price on what is not considered the pinnacle of shoe craftsmanship in terms of stitching, and sometimes I think of Blake stitching as just another high-quality manufacture. They look great thought.
Blake stitching isn’t really anything to sneeze at, but Salvatore Ferragamo shoes are made with high quality leather uppers even if they’re not Goodyear welted. Also Goodyear welting tends to chunk up the shoes a little and designers like Ferragamo would prefer to have their shoes not at all chunked up beyond what’s necessary.
@@adriansaavedra7923 thanks. I guess the ultimate example would be how chunky Goodyear welted shoes would look with a black tux!
@@nhalverson2890 exactly! For example the comparison between, and it’s a drastic example, a Florsheim imperial ‘Gunboat’ model to your Ferragamos. The gunboat might be the “better” construction but the Ferragamos look sleeker, more streamlined, and still repairable which the combination of all three is getting rarer and rarer in most cases of high fashion.
@@adriansaavedra7923 Yes, Blake construction requires the special Blake sewing machine that is apparently uncommon compared to Goodyear machines.
@@nhalverson2890 I’ve actually heard that it’s more common than you’d think. Most cobblers should have one given the commonality of Blake stitched shoes but I think it also comes from the idea that a Goodyear welt can be done by hand while a Blake stitch can’t as easily so that difference in doability translated to the idea of difference in commonality of the machines
Thanks for the introduction to Trent and Heath channel. Just subscribed, and enjoying their posted videos
It sounds like Goodyear is the best long term for heavy use shoes.
Yes
key word is "heavy"...
@@The_Kavalier just put a sole protector on the blake stiched shoe, it will last just as long.
In my opinion the Blake stitched shoes look a lot nicer. Because Goodyear adds a lot of heaviness (to the eye) and also makes the shoe stiffer and less comfortable.
“And” I kinda dislike the look of the larger Welt with the Stiches. My Blake Stiched shoes look so smooth and refined. 🤙
@@niniengineering certain brands like Carmina and TLB Mallorca make Goodyear welted shoes that still look very refined so you can have the best of both worlds.
Great video, love to hear more from experienced cobblers, please do more of these videos
Yes! An underrated topic to say the least. This was a very informative video
Now THAT was helpful! Thank you.
The most underrated channel
Excellent Topic. Something everybody should know.
How do you guys make sure you use the same holes on Goodyear welts? Today, I took my boots to my cobbler and he said that would take too long and this would be very expensive. So he’s gonna make new holes. Should I be worried? Thanks.
On the last part before the video ended. How do you identify if the leather on the upper is good quality that can last several resole?
Great video! They seem like great guys and are articulate and can explain exactly what's going on in a way someone who isn't a professional can understand!
Can't wait for the Allen Edmonds vs Thursday Boots comparison, that one will be quite interesting since Thursday is seen as a good "entry-level" but if I was getting something goodyear welted, I'd definitely want it to be a long-term purchase.
Thursday's are GYW. How long they last is a matter of how often you're rotating your footwear. Typical full recraft service is btwn $150-$300 & a smart way to extend the life of a $400 and above shoe and reduces cost per wear. $150 to recraft a $200 shoe? I guess that's up to the individual but I would never tell someone that did thinking I saved $.
I love my Thursdays. I made my purchase in large part to the reviews on this channel. Very impressive all around. What wasn't mentioned was how great your closet smells. New leather!
The hair game is on point fellas
Great informational video! Thanks Jon.
Excuse me sir, does blake stich and veldtschoen is same construction? If not what the pros and cons of veldtschoen and which better between veldtschoen vs Goodyear welted?
I've had my eye on a pair of Belstaff Trialmaster short boots for quite a while, they're made in Italy and apparently they're Blake stitched. I love the aesthetics, but will they be durable enough?
Great vid, I'd love to see talks with tailors and other similar professions. Over the years, some of the best information I've gotten has been from long-time sales people, whether shoe stores or clothing stores, who know the way things 'should' be made, at the very least, they offer a great baseline from which to understand and evaluate what's being done now.
Totally. My goal is to bring in more voices of experts in their fields. I learn right along with you!
You could do the blakestitch by hand through the same holes and have it resoled more times in theory right?
Love craftsmanship videos
We need more of these
Really good video, lots of information that isn't easily found elsewhere.
Great info! Thanks! 😃 Subscribed to T&H!
A J MacDonald Jr Thank you!! We’re looking forward to showing you more.
Solid info well presented. But I'll admit to being distracted by the cobbling clips.. it's a process ya don't see every day, so kind of mesmerizing! 😳
Totally. More to come!
Great video, really good information, I'd love to learn more about this topic eg putting rubber on leather soles or replacing heals
Their channel is a great place for that! Very cool shop and dudes.
I wouldn't consider a GYW shoe superior to a Blake stitched shoe.
It really depends on. There are different types of GYW. The often used GYW Primstitched method is probably one of the worst methods to use, to build a good shoe. Cons are: a pretty high layer of cork with the danger of increasing already existing foot malpositions, no arch support, pretty stiff. A built, which is much better than Blake stitched would be GYW stitched by hand...but most of the manufacturers today aren't able to do it due to cost efficiency. Types of building a shoe which are much better than GYW or Blake: Norwegian Welt, Stagno, Cadenon.
Can a Blake stitch shoe be changed to a Goodyear welt and if so can you guys make a video
Love when you do shoe ones
So... How tall were they compared to you, Kavalier? Random Question.
If John is dwarfed between them, I shudder to think about how others would look seated between them, myself included!
WhatShallEyeDo4U Haha...Jon is actually 6’4. We’re 6’1 and 5’11. Unfortunately, we couldn’t find another stool that was the same height as the others, so Jon took the short one. 😀
@@TrentonHeath when it comes to gentleman, Jon is the real deal.. one of the reasons his subscribers trust his reviews. I believe the term is mensch.
@@TrentonHeath 😂😂 Thank You, Trenton & Heath! If I ever have a shoe that needs to get repaired, I'll be sure to look you two up, first!
@@WhatShallEyeDo4U Thank you! We appreciate that!
Can wolf & shepherd converted to Blake or Goodyear ?
Can a blackestich be converted into a Goodyear?
How are your Executives holding up?
the one thing they don t talk about is how much it cost to have full resole , `when you get to the point when need a new sole , the upper will also look old , better off buy cheaper glue shoes and just get a new one when need new full sole ,
Removing / replacing the cork vs restoring / reusing the cork?
Also can we send you shoes for repairs. And how to get ahold of you guys.
How do you find a reputable cobbler to know that they're doing a good job on your shoe repair or things we might ask a cobbler to know how well they know shoes.
How tall are these two dudes? They seem taller than even you Jon haha, unless you were on a lower seat. Great video! Just watched a bunch of their stuff. Nice crossover.
I purposely took the shorter stool... or did I? 😜
would like to know how to ID shoes with good quality upper from the expert.
What color is that for the Allen Edmonds oxford?
How much is getting your shoes redone like this?
I had a "cheaper" pair of "rough-out" boots. Rubber sole. Rubber "laces". No way to resole. And I wish I could keep them, and not go trough the hassle of finding new boots, that will fit as well in comfort, utility and style.
Great video, very informative !
Great post.
Am I supposed to have a "vertical crack" in the bottom of each goodyear welt and blake stitched Taft shoe boot? It looks like it's falling apart at the crack.
That's the welt joint. It's normal.
Excellent video
I think blake stitch gives the ability to make the shoes less clunky and sole heavy. Makes for a sleeker, slimmer, more fashionable shoe.
Very true
How about Norwegian welt?
goodwear welt is this pinnacle of shoe construction is it not!
y not blake stitch by hand?
Am I missing something, but gyw seems to average about a mere 30-50$ more that blakes. I'd just pay the extra for the gyw Everytime.
Great video :) Could you review a new British shoe brand called Eves and Grey. I’d be very interested to hear your thoughts
I’m confused. Hugo??
The Kavalier no just a fan of his haha. Just wanted to see if you were interested in looking at Eves and Grey
Any idea if they’re doing Blake or GY? Doesn’t really say on their site.
Sean Dooley Goodyear Welt. I have a pair so I can confirm that
Are they really taller than you?
I purposefully took the short stool 😜
Can you replace a Blake Stitch with a Goodyear Welt? Or does the shoe have to be designed and built differently from the beginning in order to accommodate the different welts?
I realize the Goodyear probably makes the sole, heel and entire shoe slightly taller and that certain shoes were designed with Blake Stitch in mind for a certain look, just wondering if it's possible.
I did my own research, and while it doesn't seem totally impossible, it's completely impractical and would require deconstructing and rebuilding the shoe. It's not a simple removal of Blake welt and stitching on a Goodyear welt.
Why was bedos leather no included in this? Over 1million views for an AE restoration.
I love Bedo! Would be happy to visit him next
Good information. Would you say price point is the determining factor in choosing one method over the other?
Toss up between style and price point. If there was a reasonably price you that love the style of I would not pass on it just because it is not Goodyear welted
Who made the shoes used in your video?
James Mosley The shoes that were in front of us on the table were Allen Edmonds and Thursday Boots. The shoes that were being refurbished were Allen Edmonds and Santoni’s.
Any recommendations on wide or e width shoes?
Allen Edmonds is primary. Working on a video with more
Helm boots, RM Williams and some MTO sites.
Are you sat on a small stool or are they giants?
Ian Graham Jon took the short stool. 😀 He’s 6’4. We’re 6’1 and 5’11.
They're talking cobblers! (Cockney pun). Somebody had to say it....
And then you have shoes that are only cemented, not even bothering to do a blake stitch to cut costs. Companies that make those should go bankrupt. Im looking at you Florsheim.
Why is your chair so low
Didn't want to intimidate anyone
Tome like !
:)
Nothing should last long because it's bad for economy. We live in consumerism society, and the more we buy expensive items the better for governments, and for us, because this way we will always have more motivation to work hard and pay more taxes to government.